model motoryacht

We hope you enjoy our spectacular craftsmanship in each of the category in the blue column on your left. If you want the best that money can buy, look no further, as we are the clear leader in each single category. If you like the photos, you will love the models in person, because they would be much more magnificent in front of you -- like a 3D movie versus a flat screen. Enjoy! and thank you for visiting.

"Good morning, My name is Hxxxx Sxxxx and am currently coordinating a project between NAVCENT [ U.S. Naval Forces Central Command ] and CENTCOM [ United States Central Command] . We just have a quick question about your product listing for the USS Arleigh Burke. Do you have versions of these photos that are not watermarked that we could use in a public affairs article or announcement? Pictures of the actual ship do not work for what we have in mind and the model on your site is a very high fidelity reproduction . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your time. V/r, Hxxxx Sxxxx, Effects Coordinator. CENTCOM CCJ39"

∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

" I received the long expected crown jewel yesterday. What a fabulous piece of work. I am so impressed! Especially the car deck with real working door hinges, it just blew me away! This will be a family heirloom from me to my son, who also couldn't stop staring when he saw it... Thanks again modelshipmaster for making my dreams come true!  With the best regards, Max" ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞    

"The Hartford arrived yesterday: FANTASTIC piece of art!!! I really liked the way it was crated – amazing. I took the crate apart screw by screw, and the only mishap I had was that I busted the life boat hanger on one side when I pulled the blue tape off, but I think I will be able to repair. Looks great on the mantel. I will be in the market for another one of your ships very soon. Thanks for the excellent work!  Mike R." ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

"I just unpacked my Wanderer and it is beyond my highest hopes. You did a masterful job in recreating this historic whaler! It is the centerpiece of my "man cave" and I'm sure will become a family heirloom. Almost equally amazing was the craftsmanship of the shipping crate. I have to admit, I was a bit worried about how such a large, detailed and delicate model would survive the transport but your custom fitted crate supported and protected it perfectly. Thank you for everything and feel free to post this if you like, Terry" ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞

"Words fail me at the exquisite model y’all produced and delivered. My wife laughed out loud in surprise and delight. She’ll spend the next week deciding where to highlight it in our home. Many thanks, gentlemen! I couldn’t be more pleased. With complete admiration, Ron"

" Trireme is of micro-museum detail quality... better than expected, arrived timely, undamaged, packaged like the Crown Jewels.  Heartily recommend your products.  Alex Texas."   ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

"Hello Frank, The 62" Normandie did arrive yesterday in perfect condition. The model was packed so well I don’t think anything could have really happened to it. Thank You. The ship exceeds all expectations. You and your team are truly fine craftsmen. This is my favorite ship, and I’m so happy I chose Model Ship Masters. Not only is the ship a work of art, but with the lights and being RC, it’s like the Normandie is back alive. Thank you so much. Sincerely, George W."

"I gave a really close look at the photos of the QM2. I am a meticulous person by nature, exacting. The mechanical engineer in me. I just cannot believe the detail on the QM2. I commend you and the craftsmen in your company for your work. I do model railroading and collect ‘exact’ replicas of passenger cars and locomotives. Regards, Paul"

  ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞      "Just wanted you to know the ship arrived safely and in perfect condition. I’m very impressed with the build quality and detail. And more than impressed with the packaging for shipment. Just wanted to thank you and your team on a great job and I will cherish this ship always. I may even order another but will definitely order once again from you and your team. Once again thank you so very much. James Buday, Canada, 1/20/2023."   ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

"I cannot thank you and your team enough for the absolutely magnificent liners that your team constructed for me.  I am a mechanical engineer by trade in the railroad industry and also collect model trains. I look for authenticity in my models. Your liners are in a class of their own. And, best of all, they are constructed here in the United States. Paul J. Messina, Program Manager. New York 1/14/2023." ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

"She made it into port unscathed and fully intact. Y'all did an amazing awesome job with it. I really love it. It deserves to be on constant display in my living room where it can be seen by anyone who enters in. Thank you very much for keeping me informed and paying attention to detail so heavily. Hope the best for you. Keep on keeping on. Sincerely, LB CSS Alabama model owner" ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

"I must say the USS Bunker Hill looks fantastic. More than met my hopes and expectations. The way it was spanned was quite impressive as well. Once again, beautiful work. I’m thrilled with the craftsmanship :) Thanks, Bert" ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞   "I can't thank you enough. It's like you built the tugs for yourself--very high standard. The packaging was so good that it's like we needed a bomb squad. They can't move inside the crates... I will show them to my tugboat association. Your pricing is so fair that I am sure will get you several jobs. Thanks again, Columbus" ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

"Just to let you know SS United States model and display case arrived safe and sound. Beautifully packaged. I think it could have withstood a direct nuclear strike. Interestingly flew over the real SS United States rusting in Philadelphia same day I got home to put the model into its display case. Such a pity to see such a great, beautiful ship deteriorate. I sailed her 4 times and on her sister ship SS America twice. Best, Allan Hamilton"   ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞   "Just to let you guys know that my U99 arrived safe and sound.  Loved the model and I look forward to the Bismarck when it finally gets here. Can I say that the packaging was truly professional and so finely put together. You have a great little carpenter there.  Can I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a prosperous new year, Best wishes, Lorne. N"   ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞ 

"I just wanted you to know that both ships arrived in perfect condition along with the cases. They are magnificent! I cannot believe the detail and workmanship. You and your staff are to be commended!  Thank you again and again!  Eric"   ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞   "Finally Reina del Mar is at home in Santiago, after a long trip.  I have to congratulate you for the outstanding packaging which allowed the model to arrive without a scratch. I am also amazed of your transport and post service that, in the middle of Christmas managed to deliver this big box in my hotel in NY.  All this only encourages me to do more things with you during 2010, God willing. I think the MOSHULU would be a good one.  By the way, I loved your Reina del Mar replica. Have a happy Christmas, Luis"     ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

"The Normandie arrived last Friday after taking a few  days to get through customs. I was  so impressed by the way it was packed. It arrived in pristine condition. Please convey my sincere thanks to those involved in making it a masterpiece. The beauty of this ship reinforces my view and those of others that the Normandie is the most beautiful ocean liner ever built. Having been a designer myself this ship represents art, architecture and design so far advanced for the time it was built. Robin, New Zealand"     ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞  

"You were kind enough to suggest the steps I should follow to unpack it which worked out nicely. I very much appreciated the most secure packaging. I was most fortunate to serve as a substitute Third Mate on the SS United States for four round trip voyages to Northern Europe from NYC (voyages 393, 394, 395 and 396 from July 17, 1969 to September 10, 1069). Your precision and masterful work on the model is truly superb and brings back some terrific memories. Thank you. Regards, Harry 214-718-xxxx"

I, however, am much more future oriented, and very aware of the fact that items of high quality but limited appeal to the general public may not be available in the future....books that aren't on the best seller list, classical music recordings, etc. There is always a niche market for high quality items, but it frequently becomes very expensive. Unfortunately, we live in a culture where it is nearly impossible to go broke making mediocre movies or producing annoying and cloned rap music, but quality, if not priced "competitively", frequently becomes extinct, in the mass market sense...try finding a a good quality toaster or other small appliance at any price.

I fully plan on unveiling all of the acquisitions when we have more space, I hope, in a few years, assuming I don't prematurely expire ( I am 63, but in much better shape than most my age... I should know, I'm a physician ). However, no one's future is assured.

Interestingly enough, my wife inquired today as to whether a friend of hers could bring her grandchildren over to see my ship models, as they seem to have a fascination for sailing ships (probably watched Johnny Depp in Pirates of the Caribbean too many times), so I would say that's a positive sign.

Anyway, as usual, I have probably communicated more than you wish to hear.  Keep the colors flying and thanks to all your artisans for their greatly appreciated efforts. Scott B."

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Museum-quality scale model yachts built by artist Gary Isaksen for 

Manufactures, designers and yacht-owners all over the world. .

Our Collection

Isaksen Scale Models is a highly sophisticated scale model company based out of Lake Stevens, WA. We specialize in museum-quality scale model yachts for manufacturers, designers and yacht owners all over the globe. 

Thank you so much for a job well done!

Heidi and Gary sent regular updates while our shipmodel was being built. They paid attention to every detail and truly created a masterpiece. Our model lights up and looks like the real yacht. They even delivered to our doorstep. 

Isaksen Scale Models is professional, quality and easy to work with. We couldn't be happier with the results.

Yacht Owner

"We have found that Isaksen Scale Models has been able to support our unique needs most effectively. They have always met our deadlines and delivered first class products."

Payton Hillman

Delta marine.

 "I have never seen anything half as impressive as what Isaksen does."

M/Y Sea Lion

500 TERRY FRANCOIS STREE SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94158

123·456·7890 [email protected]

INSTAGRAM · LINKEDIN

Welcome to the World of Model Yachting

Welcome aboard.

Scale Models

The riva world in miniature.

The official Riva miniatures collection has proved a tremendous success – as gifts or simply for connoisseurs to display and admire. Riva entrusted the task of making scale models of its iconic gems and distributing them worldwide to Kiade, the leading boat modelmaker.

Working under an exclusive licence based on the original drawings and specifications, Kiade crafts faithful scale reproductions of the legendary boats that have entered the global pantheon of yachting and design. Aquarama, Ariston, Aquariva, … these are boats that catch the eye all over the world, whether life-size or as miniatures.

• Press Center
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Ferretti S.p.A.

Tax code and VAT no. 04485970968 Registered Office Via Irma Bandiera, 62 – 47841 Cattolica (RN) Italy REA no. RN 296608 - Companies Register no. 04485970968 Share capital € 338.482.654,00 fully paid-up PEC: [email protected]

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Model ship kits & model boat kits.

Wooden model ship building & model boat building is a rewarding and creative hobby. Whether you’re building a wooden ship model kit or model boat kit for the first time or you’re an experienced modeler, you’ll find a historic ship model kit here from the golden age of sailing ships that will bring you many hours of enjoyment. We have high quality wooden model ship kits & wooden model boat kits that everyone can afford. We have ranked the skill level difficulty for each model from 1 ( beginner ) to 5 ( advanced ).

We import our quality products directly from international wooden ship model kit and model boat kit manufacturers including:  Amati , Corel , Dusek , Disar Models ,  Mamoli , Mantua , Modellers Shipyard , Occre , Turk Model , Vanguard Models and Victory Models . As specialists suppliers we are able to bring you the latest ship model products available.

All of our model ship kits for adults and children & model boat kits for adults come with all timbers, fittings, model plans and instructions to complete the model ship. Also all our ship model kits & boat model kits have two layers of planking (double planked) except where identified.

Our ship model range includes wooden model sailboat kits, navy ship models, scale model ships, sailing ship model kits, model steamships, tall ship building kits, scale model boat kits, large model ship kits, Man of War models, historical ships, and wooden yacht model kits.

Some of the most popular model ships are Cutty Sark , Viking Drakker , Mayflower , USS Constitution , Golden Hind , HMB Endeavour & HMS Victory .

All kits come with written building instructions, drawings and plans. European kits come with written building instructions in multiple languages. In some kits the translation of the written building instructions from the primary language to English may not be immediately apparent – however with some examination of the kit’s contents, reading the instructions in conjunction with the plans/drawings the modeler with be able to interpret the instructions.

Popular Model Ship Kits

SHACKLETON’S JAMES CAIRD

Essex Whaling Ship

Ship model categories, beginner starters packs, sailing ships & tall ships, childrens kits, ship in a bottle, model yachts, passenger boats & liners, fishing boats, battleship models, radio control model boats, tug boat models, viking ships, single planked, model ship kit & model boat brands, amati models, corel models, disar models, dusek models, mamoli models, manuta models, modellers shipyard, nordic class boats, occre models, vanguard models, victory models, shop by model skill level, intermediate, experienced, filter products, skill level.

Showing 1–100 of 330 results

HANNAH – US Schooner 1775

ISABELLA – Paddle Steamer 1912

ALBATROS – Schooner

Viking Ship Drakkar

BUCCANEER – PIRATE SHIP

Port Jackson Schooner 1803 – Starters Pack

Bluenose 1 – Fishing Schooner 1921

Chinese Pirate Junk – Qing Dynasty

Colonial Brig Perseverance 1807 – Starters Pack

DECK CANNON – HMS SIRIUS 1786

Mary Byrne Admiralty 1826 Model

POLARIS – Starters Pack

Adventure Pirate Ship 1760

HMA Submarine AE1 /AE2

Colonial schooner port jackson 1803.

HMS Sirius 1786 Cross Section

HM CUTTER MERMAID 1817

POLARIS – Polar Star

HMS Bounty Launch

HMS Revenge

ADVENTURE – Pirate Ship 1760 – Starters Pack

Santa Maria Carrack 1492

DUYFKEN 1606

PALAMOS – Fishing Boat

Palamos Starter Pack

RMS Titanic

Pinta Caravel of Columbus 1492

Nina Caravel of Columbus 1492

HMS SUPPLY – First Fleet 1788

MISSISSIPPI – Paddle Steamer

Greek Bireme – Ancient Warship 480BC

BLUENOSE 1 – Fishing Schooner 1921 – Starters Pack

ULISES – Steam Tug

DUTCH GOLDEN YACHT 1660

Robert E. Lee River Steamboat 1870

Golden Hind

HMS VICTORY – Mid Ship Cross Section

RANGER – American Cutter 1823

SANTISIMA TRINIDAD – Cross Section

COLONIAL SLOOP NORFOLK 1798

GOLDEN STAR – English Brig

Hunter Q-Ship – British Navy

Endurance & James Caird Model Ship Combo

LADY NELSON – 18th Century Cutter – Starters Pack

Matthew Turner – Starters Pack

HMS Fly – Upgrade Set

AURORA – Spanish Brig

COLONIAL BRIG PERSEVERANCE 1807

HMS FLY – Swan Class 1776

Amalfi Fishing Boat

THERMOPYLAE – Tea Clipper 1868

CAESAR – Roman Bireme 30BC

BLACK FALCON – 18th Century Brig

SLOUP – Brittany Oyster Boat

FLATTIE – Chesapeake Bay Fishing Boat

Mayflower – English Galleon 1620

HM Cutter Mermaid 1817 – Starters Pack

LONGBOAT – HMS Sirius 1786

HMS VICTORY – Bow Section Deluxe

HMS RACEHORSE – Bomb Vessel

Yacht America (Kids Kit by Corel)

Matthew Turner Brigantine

BOSPHORUS CUTTER

USS CONSTITUTION – United States Frigate 1797

BLUE SHADOW – United States Navy Brig 1778

Yacht America – Schooner 1851

HMS VICTORY – Nelson’s Flagship 1805

HMS GREYHOUND – 20 Gun Frigate 1720

Bohuslan Passenger Ship

Greek Gallion – Privateer 1821

Egyptian Ship – Sahure Dynasty

GORCH FOCK – German Sail Training Ship

LADY NELSON – 18th Century Cutter

HMS PRESIDENT – Light Frigate 1700

LYNX – Baltimore Schooner 1812

ARMED PINNACE – Lancia Amarta 1800

USS CONSTITUTION – Cross Section 1797

RATTLESNAKE – 20 guns Privateer Ship

HMS BOUNTY – 18th Century British Frigate

GREEK BIREME – 6th century B.C.

VIRGIN OF THE SEA – Fishing Boat

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA GALLEON – 16th Century

SCOTLAND – Baltic Ketch Yacht 1775

LLAUT – Spanish Fishing Boat

HM ENDEAVOUR – Bark 1768

HMS Bounty (Kids Kit by Corel)

HMS Victory

Swedish Gunboat 1775

RMS Titanic – Olympic Class 1912

Viking Ship (Junior)

Colonial Sloop Norfolk 1798 – Starters Pack

CAZADOR – Spanish Xebec

Beginner Wooden Ship Model Kit Starters Packs

Our beginner wooden model ship Starter Packs are aimed at introducing those wishing to step into the wonderful world of wooden model ship building as easy and straight forward as possible. 

Amati has been manufacturing ship model kits since the 1920s. They blend the principle of old world craftsmanship and modern design techniques. Amati ship model kits are faithful interpretations of the original vessel. All materials are of the finest available and plans and instructions are always excellent and easily followed. Amati has integrated computer design and the latest materials to produce high quality ship model kits.

Corel Model Ships

Corel have been manufacturing wooden model ship kits since 1971. Their historic ships are historically accurate and all ship model kits contain the highest quality parts, cast metal fittings and photo-etched brass parts, and the best available timbers. Wherever possible all parts are pre-cut and ready for assembly.

Disar Model create wooden ship model kits that reflect the rich maritime history of Spain. Disar Model has a team of model building professionals with over 20 years’ of experience in model ship design and building. Disar models are known for bringing to the market new and unique models which are faithful replicas of the original ship, based on available plans and documentation.

Dusek ship model kits come complete with excellent English instructions and highly detailed drawings. Laser cut plywood, timber and all parts are fittings are of the highest quality. Dusek ship model kits are well presented and historically accurate.

Mamoli Model Ship Kits & Mamoli Model Boat Kits are concerned with historical accuracy and fidelity of scale. Mamoli wooden model ship kits offer a large variety of subject matter to please almost everyone. The materials used in their wooden model ship kits are always first class and the plans are highly detailed.

Mantua Models

Mantua has built its reputation on large, elaborately detailed ship model kits. Their ship model kits use photo-etched brass, cast metal fittings, cast metal and machined turned brass fittings. The detail on Manuta boat model is exceptional.

Modellers Shipyard has been manufacturing ship model kits since 1986. They are the only manufacturer of wooden ship models in Australia. These historically accurate ship kits are faithful interpretations of the original vessels. Each model kit comes with highly detailed English building instructions with color photos which will assist you through the whole building process. 

Nordic Class Boats is a Swedish manufacturer of unique wooden model ship and boat kits based on existing ships from Scandinavian countries. Their kits have laser-cut wooden parts and quality parts and fittings.

Occre Model Ships

Occre ship model kits use high quality materials, made with precision and a great degree of detail. To ensure easy, enjoyable ship model kit assembly, all our ship model kits are accompanied by detailed instructions, subdivided into assembly stages with full colour photographs. All ship model kits include wooden parts and double planking to make the perfect hull.

Ship in a Bottle Model Kits

These wonderful ship in a bottle model kits contains everything you need to build the ship in a bottle you have always dreamed of. Pre-cut wooden parts, detailed fittings and a beautiful glass bottle are included in each ship in a bottle model kit.

Turk Models

Turk Models produces extremely well designed and detailed wooden ship model kits. All ship model kits have laser cut plywood, timber planking and highly detailed parts and fittings. The building instructions are in English and are well presented with detailed colour photos to assist the building process.

The Vanguard Models range of model ship kits are clearly the highest quality model ship kits currently on the market. They are for the discerning model ship builder wanting to build a quality model that is a “cut above” all the other brands.

Victory Models Ship Model Kits make extensive use of laser cutting for all the wood sheets. The fittings, parts and timbers are only the best available.  Victory Models are at the forefront of innovate ship model kit manufacturing producing some of the highest quality ship model kits available.

We have a large range of Yacht model ship kits complete with English instructions and all fittings, making for great yacht model kits. If you are interested in building a ship model kit yacht make sure to have a look at our great range of kits. We offer model kit yachts to build that have featured at the Olympic games, sailed in Americas Cup and more. All yachts offer an elegant reminder of yesteryear.

Children's Wooden Model Ship Kits

Our Children’s Model Ship Kits come from Amati and Mamoli. They are suitable to be built by a child with the guidance of an adult. Each model kit comes with written instructions and plans that will need to be followed closely.

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7 Tips For Choosing A Wooden Model Ship Kit

When choosing a wooden model ship kit there are a number of factors that need to be considered. Your overall decision on these factors will influence your selection of a particular wooden ship model kit to build.

Rigging Tips For Building A Model Ship

Rigging is a significant part of the process of building a model ship. It can be tedious and time-consuming however putting the effort in adds to the beauty of your finished model.

Planking Tips For Building A Model Ship

Most beginners to model Ship Building have some concerns regarding planking, however, provided that some serious thought is given to the subject so that the principles are clearly understood, then it should not prove overly difficult.

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Model Yachts: How to Design and Build Them

Editor’s Note This is the earliest comprehensive treatment of model yachting that we have encountered. It comes from the English journal Amateur Work , a Victorian periodical with articles on arts, crafts, and some truly frightening electric devices. The article is interesting, and typical for its age, in the way it combines rules of thumb with engineering calculation.

The little thirty inch boat it describes is also typical of the era, and could easily carry radio control gear. The cutter rig is well regarded for its flexibility, and you should arrange the sails so that all but the staysail and the main can be removed in heavy air. The hull shape accommodates either strip planking or a carved hull laid up bread and butter style on the buttocks. A handsome and environmentally friendly weighted keel can be made from a brass or copper bar rather than cast lead. A traditional paint scheme would be bronze or green below the water line and black above.

Nothing is known of Arthur Hide, the author, except that he clearly was an expert.

Earl Boebert

Part I: Designing — Sheer Plan — Half-Breadth Plan — Body Plan — Centres of Gravity and Displacement

By way of preface to those readers of Amateur Work who can’t think what people can see in such “childish amusement,” I will just say, what, no doubt, they have seen pasted about in a good many streets, ”Try it” and if their first model is one that they can pit against existing ones with success, and if they can make her go where they will the first time she is put into the water, I will say they are right, it is a childish amusement; but until that is done, I must still hold on to my opinion, that model building and sailing is as scientific and amusing a hobby, combining both in and out- door pleasure, as can be found. “So, there,” as the tender sex have it. And now to work. I shall take it for granted that you know how to make a mechanical drawing, since it has been explained in this magazine, for before you can attempt any- thing in models you must draw them out.

There are three plans of a model to be drawn out. Firstly, the sheer plan; this represents a view of the boat when looking at it directly from the side, as shown in Fig. 1. Then there is the half-breadth plan, which is a view of the half of the model (Fig. 2), looking at it from underneath. And, thirdly, comes the body plan (Fig. 3), which is the view from the front on the left half of the plan, and the view from behind the model on the right half.

We must begin with the sheer plan. The shape of this depends in a great measure upon taste, but for the first model it would be better to keep to the illustration shown here. Having selected a sheet of paper, to take the full size of the model if possible, (if not you will have to draw to scale), and glued or pinned it on the board, draw at about 6 inches from the top a line right across the paper, and draw it pretty heavily, for you must work all other lines from this one. Mark this on each end L. W. L., which means load water line, and is to rep- resent the surface of the water, when the model, with all her rigging, and quite complete in fact, is stationary in the water. But, before going any further, you must determine upon the dimensions your yacht is to be. A very good size is 2 feet 6 inches over all that is to say — from stem to end of counter, and, as many model yacht clubs adhere to this size, I should, I think, follow their example. The beam, or breadth, should be about one fourth of the length. Fancy dictates here in a very great measure, as it does in a great many things in model yacht building. Some like a broad beam and some a narrow beam; but experiencia docet applies here very well, and as most probably you are without experiencia , keep to the “4 to 1” dimensions. I should therefore make her 7 inch beam, so as to keep to an even figure. Now for the depth below the water line, take about one-seventh of the length, that will make it 4 inches deep. This is merely to the bottom of the wooden part of your model, and does not include the lead keel, which will come on afterwards. For the height out of water you must study circumstances a little. You see, to make a boat look pretty, there is always a certain amount of what is called “sheer” given her—that is to say, a certain curve beginning high at the bow, falling towards the centre, and then rising again at the stern. Therefore you must have a fixed dimension for your height above water at the stem and draw in your sheer according to fancy afterwards. Then again too high a stem looks bad, and moreover is apt to hold the wind and retard the boat’s speed, whereas too low a stem does not afford sufficient support to her if she has a press of canvas on. I think about 3 inches for a 2 feet 6 inches model is very fair, and the sheer you must determine yourself, or take it from the diagram here. Now you may begin drawing out in earnest. Parallel to your load water line draw 4 lines below each other, each 1 inch apart from the other. The lower line will then represent the bottom of the keel, 4 inches below the waterline. Now draw three lines above the load waterline, also 1 inch apart. The top line would then represent the deck line if the deck were without sheer, but now simply represents the 3 inches at the bow.

These lines will represent so many planes cutting the boat parallel to the surface of the water.

The next thing to draw in is the stem, or bow; keep this about a couple of inches from the edge of your paper, and never mind, for the present, the curve at the foot. Simply draw a straight line vertical to the load water line. Now, at distances of 3 inches, draw lines parallel to the bow—that is, vertical to the load water line, to the extent of 30 inches, which will give you eleven lines, and ten spaces of 3 inches each, which will be the exact length of your model. The counter, or over- hanging part, should be about 3 inches, so draw that in to your own fancy, and consult your fancy also on the “rake,” or slope of the stern- post, which should have more or less rake to allow the rudder to swing easily, of which more hereafter.

The body plan is drawn on the extended horizontal lines of the sheer plan, and the half-breadth plan on the extended vertical lines of the same.

Now, there is one part of a ship, looking at her endways, which is larger than any other part, and, past which no other part of the vessel is visible: this is termed the “midship section,” and is represented by the outside lines in the body plan. We intend making the midship section on the line 5, which will be rather abaft the centre of the load water line. Some builders prefer a long “entrance,” which necessitates having the midship section far back; while others like a short “entrance” and a long “run,” which means hav- ing the midship section well forward, so that the bow lines converge at a greater angle than the stern lines. Now draw a centre line, XY, on the half breadth plan, and on 5 mark off from XY 3 1/2 inches, which is the half- breadth of your vessel. Above XY draw a line parallel to it, and at a distance of 1/4 inch, to represent the half-breadth of the keel, and then with a thin spline or batten draw in the deck line on the half-breadth plan to pass through the dot on 5, and fall nicely into the keel line in front, and rounded at the stern for the counter. You had, for the present, better keep as near as possible to the diagram shown here; but when you get a little more accustomed to drawing in these curves you will be able to judge for yourself if a line is what, in shipbuilding parlance, they call “pretty.” Leave the half- breadth plan for a’ little while, and on the body plan draw a vertical centre line, O O, and on each side of it draw lines at 1/4 in. distant, and parallel to it, to represent the keel. One part of this body plan, you must remember, is the forepart of the vessel, and the other half the after part. Now on the load water line, still in the body plan, on each side of the centre line mark off 3 1/2 inches, which is half the beam, and, starting from this point, draw in by hand a curve somewhat similar to the one in the diagram, and see that there are no “lumps” in it, and that it falls nicely into the straight line of the keel at the bottom. Having rubbed this out and put it in again several times till satisfactory, rub it nearly out once more, and put in definitely with curves, so that you have a definite spot where the curve crosses each horizon- tal section. Do this on each side of the centre line O O. Go back again to the half-breadth plan, and with your dividers mark off on 5 from XY the places where the midship section, which you have just drawn in, cuts each of the horizontal sections—that is to say, the distances from O O to C, to E, to G, to K, to M, and to P.Through these points, or rather through the point G firstly (which is the load waterline), draw a curve to the bow, and to line 9, taking care to make it fall nicely into the straight of the stem and stern posts, the thicknesses of which are represented by the line above XY. You must be particularly careful to draw this curve in nicely since all the other lines are worked from it, and let me impress on you that india-rubber is, in the present state of the market, a cheap article, therefore you need not be afraid of wasting it by rubbing the line out again, if not to your fancy. There must be no “lumps” in the curve, and no sudden rise or fall; it must all be gradual. To find out if the line is “fair,” you need only look along it, with your eye nearly on a level with the paper, and any little inaccuracies will at once become perceptible. Having “faired” this to your satisfaction, mark off from O O (in the body plan), on the line G (the load water line), the respective distances from X Y (in the half-breadth plan), to the points where the curve, which you have just drawn in, cuts the lines 4, 3, 2, 1. Treat the after part of the load water line in the same manner, but mark it off on the right-hand side of the body plan.

Now draw in the other curves in the half-breadth plan through the points already marked on 5, trying to keep them as little hollow as possible. These lines you must simply guess at to begin with, but after a little practice your eye will tell you very nearly where to draw them in. After this is done, mark off from O O on C, E, G, K, M, and P, the distances from X Y, along 4, to where the curves C, E, G, K, M, and P, respectively cross 4. Through the points thus obtained draw a curve, and if the curve thus drawn falls in nicely, with- out lumps or kinks, your lines in the half-breadth plan will be pretty nearly right. Treat the lines 3, 2, 1, on to the left-hand side of the body plan, and 6, 7, 8, 9, on to the right-hand side, in the same way, and if each curve comes in nicely your lines will be right; if they do not fall in well, you will have to alter the “waterlines,” as they are termed, in the half-breadth plan, until the body lines can be faired easily.

It will, I am sure, entail a good deal of rubbing out and putting in again, before your lines will come right, but do not be afraid of that, since it makes your work much easier when you come to the wood-working part of the business, and do not say to yourself, “Oh! bother it, I can’t get that right on the drawing, but it will come in all square in the wood.” It is a fallacy, I can assure you; you would never have been more mistaken than when you said that. If your drawing is not correct, your wood-work cannot be correct, and therefore you will be guessing at things all through the job, instead of having everything down on paper in a respectable manner. So put that notion out of your head, and say it must come right in the drawing, and when it is right you will be a great deal more satisfied with yourself, I am sure.

You have not yet, by the bye, drawn in on the body plan, the sheer, therefore measure off the heights from the load water line to the sheer in the sheer plan on the various lines, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc., and mark them off on their corresponding lines in the body plan, and the distances from O O to 1, 2, 3, etc.; you will take, of course, from X Y, in the half-breadth plan, to the deck line along 1, 2, 3, etc., there. Having joined the points thus obtained with a nice curve, I think your drawing is finished. The keel you can only put in afterwards, when you know the weight of lead your boat will carry, which will be more or less, according as you have made your lines “fuller” or “finer.”

In the next paper, then, I shall begin with the building of the model; but before we come to that, a few words on the shape of models would not be out of place. Models must be considered as racing yachts, and, therefore, unlike merchant vessels, carrying power, or rather “cargo space,” is no object. The great thing in models is to get your lines as nice as possible, and, to my own idea, the less hollow a line the better it is. Then again, as I said before, some like the midship section for- ward of the half-length of the boat, while others, myself included, prefer it abaft.

It appears to me that, considering a vessel is nothing more or less than a wedge driven through the water, the smaller angle that wedge has the easier it will separate the particles of water with a given driving power; and then, again, as water will close up again more easily than it will be separated, so the quicker the lines in the stern con- verge, the better, to a certain extent. In both these, as in every other case, excess is not meant, and you must, therefore, not make too long an “entrance” or too short a “run.”

With regard to the proportion of beam to length, there are one or two points to be considered before deciding this matter. Firstly, beam gives a vessel greater carrying power, and, to a certain extent, greater “stability” (by stability is meant the power a vessel has of resisting any force which tends to press it over on its side, when in the water, of course) —or, I should rather say, greater “stiffness.” A broad and shallow vessel is “stiffer” up to a certain angle of inclination than a narrow and deep boat, but press both over to that angle and you will find that past that point the broad vessel will perhaps capsize easily, whereas it will be impossible to capsize the narrow but deep one, since she will always right herself again. Now this is easily explained when you know that there are two very important points, or “centres,” in a ship: the one known as the “centre of displacement,” which is in reality the centre of gravity of the mass of water which the ship “dis- places,” or takes the place of, when she is put into the water i and the other the “centre of gravity” of the ship itself. When a ship heels over you can readily see that her centre of displacement will shift, because the shape of the water she displaces alters as her own shape differs under water, according to the various angles of inclination. Therefore in a shallow ship, where the centres of gravity and displacement are close together, the centre of displacement has to shift very little to cause the vessel to capsize; but in a deep boat it has to shift a great deal, since the two centres are further apart. So, then, in a model you must com- bine the qualities of a broad vessel and a deep one; but take care not to get her too broad, because the lines will not be fine enough in that case, nor must she be too deep, since the more surface a boat has in the water the greater is the resistance caused by the friction of the water on her sides to her headway.

I am afraid space will not permit me to say more about designing, but practice will assist you more than anything else, and if you can reason a few points out for yourself, so much the better. About the centres I shall have more to say further on, when we come to building.

Part II  The Hull — Materials — “Dug Out” Mode of Building — Block — Hollowing Out Sections — Layer Method — Adjustment of Pieces– Marking Off Water Lines — Roughing Out — Gluing Layers — Deck — Keel >>

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