sailboat cabin stairs

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Wood for cabin stairs.

• Thread starter Lodi47
• Start date Oct 5, 2015
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I want to build some cabin stairs. When I bought the boat there were none and I think a cooler is too slippery and unstable. Any suggestions for the type of wood for the stairs? There are only two steps down into cabin. Thanks  

You can use anything you want. The other wood in the boat is probably teak, but that's really expensive and hard to work with. It dulls tools like you wouldn't believe. The common teak substitutes for porch decks and outdoor furniture are ipe, cumaru, and garapa. They look and act a lot like teak but are much cheaper. You can get them at Menards. If you want real teak, your local lumberyard (not a big box like Home Depot) can probably order it for you, or look up a hardwood hobbyist place near you. An oil or satin varnish should match it up with your existing wood trim.  

you can use red oak and stain it with mission oak stain an it will look like your teak  

Thanks for the responses. Sounds good.  

Roadking Larry

Red oak, while a very pretty wood, is very susceptible to rot. a much better choice in the oak line is White Oak. Stronger, rot resistant and will take a dark stain very well.  

Inside the boat rot shouldn't be a problem. I've also used red cherry with mahogany stain and it came out a perfect match. Ken  

I have found teak a very easy wood to work with and have not found it dulls tools. It is expensive. In the interior you can use almost anything, but something like pine will not blend in well if the interior is teak. Mahogany will blend in well with teak.  

For boats this size a cooler with a teak step is usually the way it was designed. You can buy a teak step to go on top of a cooler right here at the Sailboatowners store. http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?9054 I have one in my boat, I agree that if not tied down it can be wobbly, when looking for the steps I came across this article. Had some good ideas on how to tie the cooler down. http://theboatgalley.com/cooler-step/ I don't have the skills to make a set of stairs, as another option is this, garelick cockpit steps. They make two different sizes. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2276155|2276166&id=2594349  

I will second the Cumaru. I used it to make a set of grab rails for my previous boat. I bought just 1 decking board, a true 1" thick. It is a very tough wood, so you need high quality tools/blades to cut it. It smells a little when sanding, so you want to have ventilation when you sand it. Its incredibly hard, so any holes must be pre-drilled before putting screws into it. (ask me how I know) The stuff looks great. I left it unfinished for a year, then sanded it lightly and put an oil base on it. Very beautiful wood, and IMO looks much better than Mahogany. I see you sail in Lake Geneva. If you live or don't mind driving south, Owl Lumber is a good source. They are in Lombard, IL.  

Thanks for the info and resource. Lombard is not that long of a drive.  

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mjkkemper Member

I few years ago i took on my first fiberglass build for a swim platform for a 270DA Sea ray. Link below. Well i since moved into a different boat and of course am now building another one. http://www.lakestclair.net/forums/index.ph...mp;#entry839332 I am building this for an 86 Carver 3207 Aft Cabin. With the 80's style aft cabin you have a ladder leading down to the plate form. I am planning on putting a set of Fiberglass stairs down to it for the Kids and ease of access. I also going to incorporate a box/seat on the platform I started with the stairs making a negative female plug. The boat has some interesting curves so it took quit a few trips to make sure the paper patters where correct. Attached is the sketch of how it will look when finished I will update this post if anyone is interested in its progress

Attached Files:

Post-6086-1297888713_thumb.jpg, untitled111.jpg.

Below is the progress on the female Plugs/Molds. After I finish rounding the corner i will spray the tooling gel then wax with a parting wax (about 8 times) at this point it will be ready for the fiberglass layup

IMG_1828 (640x359).jpg

Img_1830 (640x359).jpg, p2180349 (640x480).jpg, p2180341 (640x480).jpg.

Fireman431 Senior Member

I am very interested in seeing how this comes out. I have a Carver 374 Voyager and it has a ladder to the fly bridge. I was just remarking yesterday on how I would like a set of steps instead. Please continue to update this thread. I may be PMing you...

YachtForums Administrator

Images must be NO larger than 640 pixels in width. Please read our rules before uploading further attachments.

captnrontx New Member

mjkkemper said: Below is the progress on the female Plugs/Molds. After I finish rounding the corner i will spray the tooling gel then wax with a parting wax (about 8 times) at this point it will be ready for the fiberglass layup Click to expand...

I will try to figure out how to resize these so that the Pixel Police will be happy

Ok lets try this again. I did have aditional photo's but i guess they are just to wide -Quick update- The Plug for the Platform is complete. Ready for Gelcote and Fiberglass when i get back from vacation. The Red color will help in making sure I have a even coat of white gelcoat. The stairs are primed and sanded ready for their red coat.

You appear to be doing high quality work. Very nice. The hardest part for me would be to decipher the fact that I'm building a negative of what I really need. Just as a starting point for me to consider for my vessel, what would be the finished price for that set of custom made steps (no swim platform)? PM me if I'm breaking some sort of policy or rule.

-Week end Progress- Finished waxing and spraying the release agent Spayed the Gelcoat on the molds One layer of surfacing Veil (3/4oz Fiberglass) on the swimplaform My fiberglass schedule is a follows: PLATFORM 2 coats of parting film 2 coats of gel coat no wax 1 layer of surfacing veil 2 layers of 1.5 oz chop mat 1 layer of 1708 Bi-axle 3/8" end-grain balsa 1 layer of 1.5 chop mat 1 Layer of 1708 Bi-axle 1 layer of 1.oz chop mat possible layer of woven fabric STAIR 2 coats of parting film 2 coats of Gelcoat no wax 1 layer of 3/4oz surface veil 2 Layers of 1.5oz mat 1 Layer of 1708 Biaxle -coring on the steps- 2 layers of mat Possible layer of woven fabric SEAT Same as the stairs

IMG_2104 (640x359).jpg

Img_2108 (359x640).jpg, img_2107 (640x359).jpg.

Fireman431 said: You appear to be doing high quality work. Very nice. The hardest part for me would be to decipher the fact that I'm building a negative of what I really need. Just as a starting point for me to consider for my vessel, what would be the finished price for that set of custom made steps (no swim platform)? PM me if I'm breaking some sort of policy or rule. Click to expand...

L Davis New Member

WOW....you do great work!!!!, very interesting, please keep us all informed, any pictures of other glass projects?? (would love to see them)

First layer of 3/4oz surface veil on the stairs. Veil, 1.5oz chop mat and 1708 Bi-axle going on the plate form Photobucket link http://s1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff498/mjkkemper/

IMG_2113 (640x359).jpg

Img_2114 (640x359).jpg, picture002 (640x359).jpg, picture005 (640x359).jpg.

finished the last coat of fiberglass on the stairs and demolded Hung it from the rafters and let gravity do the work set the stairs up on the platform

JustMag Member

I'd say you were pretty good as a hobbyist! Those look awesome! Do you use and chopper guns or any mechanical equipment?? Or all hand laid?? Fabulous work!

All hand layup. a choper gun would have been nice. Below is prior to adding the resin Images Removed. Please resize.

K1W1 Senior Member

Photo Resizing Hi, If you want to resize your photos here is a great free program to use, I have posted links to it here on YF before. It works great http://pixresizer.en.softonic.com/

What are the oval shaped parts on either side of the swim platform?

Fireman431 said: What are the oval shaped parts on either side of the swim platform? Click to expand...

mjkkemper said: I have cut them out yet but they are to element pressure from building up under the platform from waves or your wake when you slow down quickly. They pretty common on most boats swimplaforms these days Click to expand...

Almost done Still need to attach the stair - Some triming to do. I oversized the template so that i could trim it closer where the stairs meet the transom. Also need to attach the railing and put the remaining supports underneth it and cut the holes for the vents. Picture is of the seat with the cushion lifted up - plan on using as a cooler or bait/livewell. there is a drain on the bottom

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Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Emma Delaney

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Boat House Stairs

Yacht stairs.

A yacht is a large investment, so getting every aspect of it correct, every bolt and weld, is important to you. That includes any means of traveling between decks, so you need a stair that can withstand harsh sea air while upholding the visual level of class you want your yacht to present. Essentially your yacht is a vacation getaway on water, so the staircase you install needs to reflect that. So here are a few tips to help you find a stair that serves your functional and aesthetic needs while out enjoying the high seas.

Space Saving

Yachts, or any type of recreational boats, are short on space. As space is a commodity, you want to ensure you use it wisely. The key with this consideration is to use a compact staircase or space-saving stair . The small structural footprint of a spiral staircase is ideal for a yacht or other recreation boat setting. The strictly vertical build allows you the function of a full-sized stair while also freeing up space to use for other amenities you want to build into your ship. If your stair will be inside the boat, then a steel spiral stair with the right wood accents and a polished bronze handrail provides just the right touch of naval elegance. With the space you’ll save, that shuffle board may now look like much more of a possibility.

Nautical Theme

If your stair will be outside or atop the boat, then another benefit of a galvanized stair—specifically as it relates to a yacht or other recreational boat—\is the battleship gray color it develops after the 6 month weathering period. This worn, gray color is a great way to set a nautical theme for your vessel without having to make any additional changes to your stair post-installation. Just install it and let it weather.

Simple Installation

One issue to consider—especially if your stair installation is post-build or some other kid of add-on for your boat—is to make sure that it’s an easy installation. The corridors of your recreational boat, no matter how luxurious the vessel may be, are likely to be a tight fit, so you don’t want to have to haul cumbersome pieces into your boat.

A spiral staircase kit offers a great solution to this potential problem. You can transport the broken down kit to the installation site on your boat in pieces and assemble it right there-you don’t have to worry about navigating your ship with bulky pieces. And a stair kit such as Paragon’s galvanized stair kit not only provides this convenience of easy transportability, but also the safety and reliability of a custom stair as we provide several code and other safety features combined with in-house engineering features for increased stability.

Dock Stairs

Aside from direct boat applications, other great uses for an outdoor galvanized stair include a beach house or a dock. Moving between multiple decks while aboard your seafaring vessel is important, but you also want to be able to board your boat safely in the first place. A galvanized stair makes this simple without taking up too much room on your dock. A galvanized spiral stair will also last for decades to come with little to no maintenance—making it a long-term investment that lasts as long as your boat.

Learn more about how a stair from Paragon can add the right element of functionality and naval elegance to your recreational boat by contacting us today.

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Companionway Design: Down the (Main) Hatch

• By Alvah Simon
• Updated: March 12, 2014

Companionway Design

While most elements of yacht design have evolved with contemporary fashion, main hatches and companionways, until recently, have inexplicably lagged behind. Since they constitute the largest holes in the boat, it seems like a strange oversight. The heavily trafficked companionway is a critical area of transition from topside to below. If it’s poorly designed, the potential for accidents is high.

Let’s start with the offset companionway, often seen in older, classic-plastic production boats. This was a design response to ketch rigs, in which the mizzenmast is often stepped in the center of the bridgedeck. To limit crawling around the spar and rigging, these hatches were offset to port or to starboard. The advantage below was a larger contiguous area for the galley, but the clear disadvantage above was a vulnerability to downflooding in a knockdown. Reliable furling gear has reduced the need to manage sail area via split rigs. And as the ketch configuration waned, so did the offset hatch.

| | The saloon-style washboards on this Bavaria Cruiser 50 are stout and transparent, and stow well against the side walls of the companionway entry. |

While it’s true that many modern cockpits with wide-open sterns are self-bailing, substantial amounts of water can be funneled forward with great force when a boat gets pooped, which can happen when it’s bow down on the face of a large wave. To prevent downflooding, a balance must be maintained among cockpit size, drainage capacity, bridgedeck height and companionway strength.

Thanks to their distance above the water and the open nature of their cockpits, multihulls were incrementally moving toward eliminating bridgedecks altogether, opting instead for a sliding-door runner between the level soles of the cockpit and saloon. But enter the latest catamaran trend — the forward recessed cockpit — and suddenly their design concerns have become more aligned with those of monohulls. Making a humble concession to the vagaries of the sea, the Leopard 48 boasts a 9-inch sill aft and a commendable 12-inch rise in the forward-cockpit entry.

In theory, the higher the bridgedeck, the better. But taken to extremes, they can become difficult to step over. The Dufour 36 addresses this with a simple flip-up acrylic panel that increases the bridgedeck from 9 inches to 13 inches.

| | The ventilation holes on the Dufour 36 washboard slant downward to keep water from dripping down below. |

When it comes to sealing the vertical area of our “big hole,” a few removable washboards may suit a budget trailer-sailer, but such boards are too often found on very expensive and otherwise sophisticated vessels. To ascend into the cockpit from below, one must lift out one or even two boards (a difficult proposition in any weather, but especially in a gale); climb out into the cockpit, possibly on a heavy heel, with hands full; then place the boards back into their slots in exactly the right order and rotation. To make this slightly less inconvenient, designers changed from parallel to tapered companionway sides, which meant you had to lift the board up only a couple of inches to push it in or out. Of course, the disadvantage here is that a boarding sea can also lift the boards an inch or two and implode them. If such boards are stout enough for bluewater use, then by nature they’re bulky and heavy and take up substantial stowage area when not in use.

| | Though increasingly rare, the offset hatch on this old Alden Malabar was employed to reduce the clutter and confusion caused by a mizzenmast stepped in the middle of the bridgedeck. |

Many designers have gone to saloon-style side-hinged boards. The boards remain in place, which is good. But unless they’re in a recessed passageway with sidewalls on which to fasten, it’s often difficult to leave them in an open position; they’re also prone to snagging sheets. And why some are louvered is a complete mystery.

To my thinking, the perfect system offers robust, fixed boards that swing out, fold down, or drop into a recess built into the bridgedeck. They may have ventilation holes, but these either are small or can be sealed off in extreme conditions. The boards are see-though and offer good visual communication between the cockpit and below.

The shape and height of the companionway entry impacts its safety. The most vulnerable time at sea is when sleepy crew rush from below to deal with confused and cacophonous situations, such as a pre-dawn squall line. Sailors then may be exposed to slapping sheets, bone-crushing booms, or the possibility of being pitched headlong into the sea before they can be properly tethered in. The new concept of a recessed companionway entry offers initial containment side to side and protection from above until one can get tethered and assess the wind and sea conditions. The loss of cockpit space that results from pushing the main bulkhead aft to make room for the recessed entry is a small price to pay for such a safety feature.

| | On the Beneteau Sense 46, the walk-through hatches are similar to regular household doors. |

Finally, we seal the horizontal area of our big hole with the sliding hatch. It needs to slide easily with little play on its rails to prevent water from floating it and gushing below. Ideally, it should be protected by a forward sea hood and, arguably, by an overhead dodger. Whereas the strength of traditional building materials sensibly limits the size of the sliding hatch, modern materials such as Lexan are often stronger than the supporting hull structures themselves. This allows designers to increase hatch size for ease of access and increased light below.

And as for the old barrel bolt that secures the sliding hatch from the inside, it must finally and forever disappear from our modern fleet. Yes, it’s important to secure the hatch so that a boarding sea can’t force it open and no one can accidentally lean on it and fall in, but the hatch should have a dual-access latch that can be operated from above and below so no one is ever locked into or out of the interior of the boat.

We owed the initial progress on many of these sound concepts to such French builders as Jeanneau, Beneteau and Dufour, which employed the innovative Goiot line of deck hardware. Many other manufacturers, including Bavaria, have since followed suit. Passport Yachts also earns high honors for the overall integration of many of these features into its boats. Passport’s fixed, clear hatchboards slide down to several determined heights before ultimately resting in a bridgedeck well, creating a sill low enough to step over easily and wide enough to sit on comfortably.

| | Aboard the Hallberg-Rassy 372, the traditional companionway treatment is compact and uses sliding hatchboards. Note the robust rails, which provide secure and welcome handholds. |

The Beneteau Sense series is pioneering new ground via a designed entry that’s more like a domestic doorway than a maritime hatch. On the Sense 55, this walk-though hatch is sealed with a horizontally hinged acrylic door that, with the touch of a button, rolls down under the cockpit sole, much like an escalator step. Only time will tell if the mechanism is reliable and if the unusually large hatch can resist the force of an angry ocean, which weighs 63 pounds per cubic foot.

The height, inclination and even shape of the companionway steps will determine if entry and exit will be safe at sea. The worst-case scenario is an almost vertical ladder of substantial height, with shallow steps, ineffective nonskid, no side containment for the feet and no ergonomically placed handholds. The best is a series of wide, scalloped steps possessing sufficient incline to walk up (as opposed to climb), enough depth to accept the whole foot on descent, and a short “hallway” enclosing the upper area of the steps. Stout handholds should be strategically placed on deck as well as below.

| | Everything about this Oyster 625, including the wide steps and sturdy handholds, is just right. The hatchboards drop into a generous storage well; latches can be operated from above or below. |

Where designers were once reluctant to decrease the vertical angle of the steps, so as to avoid intruding upon precious interior space, the trend toward increased interior volume, and steps that are incorporated into the engine’s access hatch, have mitigated this concern. But the length of the sliding hatch must match the interior depth of the stairwell in order to create standing headroom at the level of each step.

A small but unfortunate feature to consider is the locking system. A tempered external padlock may be strong, but the hasp that fastens it is often a flimsy affair attached with a couple of short sheet-metal screws. Although no guarantee against a determined thief, the integral key latch offers some deterrence.

In the old days of massive crews, it was said that only admirals and idiots sat in the companionway, which is why I’m always careful to address my wife as Admiral when I find her there. But with the little foot traffic that’s inherent to shorthanded sailing, the companionway’s top step is a warm and dry area from which to keep a good watch.

In the simplest terms, the core mission of the main hatch and companionway is to let the people in and keep the water out. Whether you’re considering a new vessel or upgrading an old one, pay meticulous attention to the location, design and strength of the hatch and companionway to determine how well it serves these basic purposes.

This article first appeared in the August 2013 issue of Cruising World. Click here to read more in our Design Trends series.

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Sailing 101: Affordable DIY Designs and Projects for Boat Interior

Ahoy Sailors, we discussed the importance of changing your boat's oils and filters last week. This week we are getting creative so that we can spruce up your boat’s interior for an affordable price. Next week we will be getting festive as we break down how to decorate your boat for the holidays and what should be on your decorating checklist.

As personal styles and trends change, you might want to spruce up your boat’s interior— or maybe the time has played its role, and it’s necessary. Here are some tips to give your boat’s interior an affordable makeover.

Start by Deep Cleaning

A deep clean is the cheapest way to brighten your interior radically. Dirty boat upholstery, mildewed cabin liners, and salt-encrusted hatches make a boat feel old and dirty. Deep cleaning is a great start that will drastically improve the boat cabin’s appearance and give you a better idea of where your focus should be on your boat’s interior. You can also:

• Professionally launder your upholstery
• Wipe down the cabin liners with vinegar to prevent mildew and mold
• Wash hatches to increase natural light
• Clean under all the cabin soles and the edges of any rotting boards
• Wash the walls and treat any wood with the proper wax, oil, or varnish
• Scrub out the bilge to prevent any stale smells.

Install Interior Boat Lights

Living on a sailboat can be like living in a basement because of the lack of natural lighting. LED strip lights are a great and affordable way to brighten your cabin. LED strip lights look nice under cupboards or overhangs, and the light strip will be hidden, adding an elegant ambiance. They also make great courtesy lights. Tuck the strips on either side of walkways or at the base of any bench seating to help your guests navigate in the dark. Your boat will look classy, like a theater. Lastly, hide LED lights between panels or around hatches .  LED strip lights don’t look good mounted in the middle of the wall. It looks much tidier if you tuck them around a natural border like a panel or hatch.

Fresh Bedding and Accents

Your boat’s interior will look great with decorative accents. This could be either a mason jar filled with fairy lights and seashells or firm and tidy throw pillows and blankets. Also, purchase nice bedding to make the cabin look fresh and clean. Bathrooms look nice with wall-mounted soap dispensers and hand towels that add a splash of color. Whatever your personal style is, you can implement it into your accent pieces.

Glam Up the Galley

Clean up your galley by replacing rusted or dull faucets with shiny new ones. Add colorful dish towels to add some life and make the change to non-breakable dishes and glassware. There is no reason your galley can’t look as cute as your home’s kitchen. Next, create extra space on your countertops by adding a chopping board stove cover. Then you can bring in other fun pieces like spice racks or a kitchen utensil holder.

Interior Upholstery Alternatives

Reupholstering a boat is a costly part of a sailboat interior revamp, but it makes a huge difference. Suppose you want to spend less than the thousands of dollars it costs to hire someone to do it; there are a few tricks to avoid a complete upholstery overhaul.

– If your upholstery is in poor condition, you may want to sew elasticated cushion coverlets that go over the top side of the cushion—it’s also an excellent way to protect new upholstery from boat projects that bring dirt, grease, and sweat stains.

– Packed-out seat cushions can be fixed by   inserting a layer of high-density foam and batting it on top of the existing foam.

Accent Rugs Cover Worn Out Cabin Soles

Depending on the state of your cabin sole, it may be possible to refinish it, but it’s a big job, and results are not guaranteed. A sensible solution is to cover worn cabin soles with boat-friendly rugs, preventing further wear and tear. In addition, add slip-proof matting underneath to ensure your rugs are secure.

Bring Your Walls to Life

Securely fasten art, photos, and souvenirs to your walls. In addition, mirrors are great for creating the illusion of space. Privacy curtains are also an excellent way to add a splash of color and are easy to make yourself if you choose.

Whiten Your Interior

Nautical colors are traditionally bright white with a solid contrasting navy blue. However, painting panels a light color can brighten and modernize a boat cabin and set off teak trim.

A fresh coat of paint is an excellent way to make your interior look fresh and new.

Tasteful Storage Bins

Boats are notoriously short on storage space, but a few decorative baskets and storage containers can improve the space’s look while giving you more room to tuck things away.

Personalized and Functional Window Coverings

The interior of a boat is usually function-first – you can’t go sailing if you have trinkets and souvenirs cluttering your surfaces. However, window coverings are a great way to personalize your space and comprise your color scheme. Choose a material that gives you privacy and keeps out the sun but be creative and reflect your style. If you have a sewing machine and know how to use it, a small amount of research will give you some great examples.

If you’re still feeling overwhelmed about revamping your sailboat interior or aren’t confident in your creative DIY skills, you can still consider hiring professional help. Plenty of interior designers would welcome the challenge of working on a boat but look for someone with experience designing small spaces.

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Home > Blog > 22 Boat House Design Ideas

22 Boat House Design Ideas

Many boat owners want a safe place to store their boat, especially if they live in an area with unpredictable weather. While many simply dock the boat, constant outdoor exposure can be unsecure and daunting when there is a storm ready to hit the coast.

Boathouses are the perfect solution! Not only do they work as a garage for your boat, but they can also double as outdoor entertaining spaces and vacation homes. Whether you plan to build a full house or simply a relaxing vacation spot, the design possibilities are endless and the right type of boat stair is crucial.

Take your boat house design to the next level by installing a multi level deck . The multiple decks give you ample space for outdoor entertaining, as well as different views of the lake. This boat house takes full advantage of their space by creating two decks connected by a multi-floor spiral staircase. By using a spiral stair, the homeowner has a small footprint and an open deck on the first level. This particular stair is an Aluminum Powder Coated stair . The powder coating finish gives the already rust prohibitive aluminum frame a maintenance free barrier. This is perfect for an outdoor stair that has continuous exposure to water.

One way to look at your boat house is to see it as another garage. This boat house is essentially a detached garage behind the house. The green color matches the home, creating cohesion. This color also creates a calming environment, something that you always want in your outdoor spaces. When combined with the white garage doors and accents, this boat house design is a very traditional design with some unique accents. The exposed wood paneling at the top ties in the rustic and natural elements of the boat house’s surroundings. The balcony and communal area on the dock gives the homeowners the space to entertain in the space.

Boat house ideas aren’t limited to the exterior! This boat house interior channels a traditional country home. The khaki and white flooring has a classic diamond pattern that compliments the rich colors of the boat. The decorative paneling in the room gives the white walls depth. This room is the perfect example of a boathouse that feels like a home. Don’t be afraid to fully decorate the interior of your boat house with the same considerations you take on the exterior. If you choose to create a decorate pattern on your floor, be sure to use sealants that will protect the wood against the elements.

This boat house embraces a rustic design aesthetic. The warm tones from the wood are followed through the floor, ceiling, and furniture. This monochromatic room makes the boats the main focus. There is a small lounge area with armchairs and side tables making the boathouse an extra living space as well. Anyone willing to tackle this design should be prepared for some major sealing and waterproofing!

If you’re considering building a boathouse as a vacation home or main residence, it’s easily done. Think of the same house plan as an attached garage and replace the cars with boats. You will need to do some extra planning for the foundation of the home. This house chose to create a deck over their boat garages. The homeowner chose glass deck railings which keeps the view of the lake uninterrupted. The all wood design creates a rustic cottage that fits in perfectly with its surroundings.

This boathouse is a part of a seaside town that embraces its natural surroundings. With a boathouse community comes limited space. Because all of the homes are built on platforms, their space is defined and isn’t very flexible. This particular home made the most of their outdoor areas by creating a rooftop deck and connecting it to a wrap-around deck on the floor below.

This may not be your traditional boat house design, but this dock structure is perfect for those that store their boat in mild climates. The open design helps the natural beauty of its surroundings be the main focus. By adding a deck above the dock, the owners are able to create a multipurpose space. This dock defines the amount of space allowed for the deck and the stair to access it. This makes the spiral stair’s small footprint ideal. There is still plenty of open space left on the dock to walk around and access the boats. This particular stair is an Aluminum Powder Coated spiral stair that has a maintenance free finish on the already rust prohibitive aluminum frame. It has diamond pattern treads to provide a non-skid surface for added safety. The matching deck rail adds cohesion to the design.

This boathouse is clearly design to maximize their outdoor entertaining space. The upper deck has a small table with an umbrella to shield the guests from intrusive sunrays. The lower deck is set up for sunbathing and relaxing with friends. This doubles as the dock with the boat’s parking spot tucked behind the chairs and with the cover of the upper deck. The communal areas are connected by a traditional straight staircase that bends into an L shape to maximize their space. The building itself features large arch windows that allow large amounts of natural light to fill the space.

This simplistic structure is perfect for a relaxing getaway. The contemporary design features a minimalist frame made of metal and wood. The windows open completely to create a seamless transition between the indoors and the surrounding nature. The owners can enjoy a breeze indoors or pop downstairs to take their boat out in nice weather!

This boat house design features classic Americana design characteristics. The classic white railing paired with the stone color siding is similar to a traditional vacation home. This nostalgic design is the perfect place to relax during a breezy summer day. The rooftop deck is attached to the main residence with a bridge. The floor extends out past the railing to create the ceiling for a covered porch for a shady spot.

This two floor boathouse is on a floating platform and has its space defined for it. Therefore, a spiral stair was the natural choice. Its small footprint meant that it could fit into the allotted space without much modification. This aluminum powder coated stair is rust prohibitive and maintenance free, making it the perfect choice for an outdoor application. The owner took advantage of the flat roof to create a rooftop deck . This is the perfect place to take in the sights around the dock. The staircase has the additional safety feature of the caged in design.

Not all boat house designs are traditional or rustic. This modern boat house is located on a river in England. The all glass walls create expansive views that one can only get by tucking the small structure into the surround trees. By creating a boathouse, the homeowners are able to enjoy their surroundings no matter what the weather conditions are.

This contemporary boathouse uses a mix of woods to create its eclectic style. The pagoda top is created with a rich wood that is most likely a rot resistant species that was then treated to lengthen the life of the structure. The rest of the wood is cedar is it is also a rot resistant wood species. This is ideal in outdoor applications that will be exposed to excess moisture, such as a boathouse. The cable railing and floating staircase that connects the upper and lower levels ties together the contemporary design.

This rustic boathouse is the home of a spa in Minnesota. The cabin like aesthetic is perfect for a cozy getaway in the snowy climate. The all cedar building uses a matching ladder to round out the rustic design style. If you like this design but want a longer lasting solution to the ladder, a spiral stair may be the design choice for you. By installing a spiral stair, you can keep it up against the building with a small footprint like the ladder. However, it will last much longer with our maintenance free and weather proof finishes. The diamond plate treads will create a non-skid for extra safety, even during a snowy Minnesota winter!

These homeowners used traditional home design to inspire their boat house ideas. This building is similar to a normal garage all the way down to the door! The upper floor has been renovated into a garage loft . If you take this approach, you can always convert the top of your boat garage into a storage loft for all of your boating supplies. This keeps everything together and organized without sacrificing any space in your main residence. While this garage has an exterior entrance to the loft, you can also incorporate an interior means of access to move from your boat to the loft with your supplies. A spiral stair would allow to have a full stair without sacrificing any room for your boat. While it would be an interior stair, the Aluminum Powder Coated spiral stair and Galvanized Exterior spiral stair will be your best options to ensure the longevity of the stair because of the excess moisture in the building.

This boathouse is styled after old European boathouses with its stone exterior. It has an open top floor to give the owners a shaded outdoor entertaining area. The all wood dock is aged and distressed to add to the old world style of the boathouse. The arched doorways complete the look. This grand structure is surely somewhere you’d like to relax and watch the boats come in.

This living space has taken advantage of all of the space available in the boathouse. The designer created a relaxing space that has a resort like combination of dark wood with white linen furniture. She has included everything you could want for a lazy day by the lake, from a hammock to a bar. The all wood floor is treated with a solid stain and that also works as a sealant to help protect against the decay that comes with lumber.

If you want a small structure to dock your boat and enjoy the outdoors, consider this rustic design. The all-wood structure is most likely treated with a heavy sealant to keep it structurally sound and rot resistant. This small hut has a wood burning fireplace that compliments the warm tones of the wood used. The top is screened in for shelter in the event of bad weather and the bottom is the perfect place to enjoy a fire and relax by the water!

This boat house design is made for outdoor entertaining. The completely open structure is made up of pressure treated cedar and galvanized steel to create a rust and rot resistant structure that can stand up to the great outdoors. There are several different communal areas across the two floors. The top has a small awning for those that want to avoid the water but want the protection of a roof.

This boat house design is clearly the most extravagant of the list. This elliptical shaped structure is built into a natural bend in the Colorado River and features its own personal water feature. Not only does the modern structure have several different areas depending upon your interests, but it also has an indoor area to shield against rain and cold nights. The grand curved staircase on the back of the boat house connects the two levels.

This boat house design is a simple structure with elegant accents. The exterior roof supports allow it to extend to create a deck to relax on and enjoy the lake. A Galvanized Exterior stair works as a mean of access between the dock and the roof. The small footprint makes a spiral stair the only choice for this design. A traditional stair would’ve extended out to the ground and doubled the width of the walkway. The Galvanized Exterior stair has a maintenance free silver finish making it a great compliment to the minimalist building. The diamond plate treads add a non-skid surface for extra safety.

This boat house owner wanted a way to reach their rooftop deck without having to build a large dock to accommodate their staircase. The small footprint of a spiral stair paired with the durability of galvanized steel was the perfect solution. Salter Spiral Stair’s Galvanized Steel spiral stair has a rust prohibitive and maintenance free finish. It pairs well with the harsh corrosive air that comes with coastal areas. This homeowner never has to worry about rust compromising the structural integrity of their stair and they can maximize their dock space!

If you’re looking to build a boat house or want to update an existing dock, this post can give you plenty of inspiration. If a spiral stair is the right fit for your design, call one of our consultative designers today at 1-800-368-8280 .

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• Sailboat Reviews

Tall-step Syndrome

... and other insults to the aging sailor..

Boat shows present a wonderful opportunity to not only explore boats well beyond your price range, but also to observe how designers answer the many compromises that each boat design requires. Some designs succeed, and some don’t-and often the weak spot is a simple failure to understand the customer.

At last falls U.S. Sailboat Show in Annapolis, Md., PS contributor Drew Frye was sitting in the cockpit of a lovely 50-foot catamaran with eight other mature sailors-all serious lookers whose legs were also throbbing from a long day of walking the miles of exhibit tents and touring many boats. These were sailors who had worked long years to accumulate the scratch to write a check for the $500,000-$1,000,000 that such a boat would cost. All were over 50 years old, most considerably older.

As Fryes eyes wandered around the boat, he saw many potential problems for him and his wife, and nearly all of them were steps. As spacious as this boat was, all of the steps were 16 to 19 inches high-more than double the seven-inch rise in an average stair step. These high steps would be particularly troublesome for his wife, who has a knee replacement and an arthritic ankle. And for the crowd of mostly older visitors who came aboard the catamaran, these steps were clearly difficult to navigate-even at the dock. One can only imagine the sort of obstacle they would present at sea.

Curious, Frye asked for a show of hands among the sailors gathered. How many of you have had either a joint replacement, or have a spouse or parent with a joint replacement or serious joint surgery? Six of the eight hands shot up, and the others said they anticipated surgery in the future.

Frye turned to the catamaran sales people-athletic 30-somethings-and asked, If this is your real demographic-its a long road to save this much money-then why isn’t the boat designed with our knees in mind? Keep in mind, most of us are not buying a boat for today, but for where our bodies will be in five to 10 years.

The salesmen responded with open mouths and no useful answers. The rest of the day, Frye posed the same question to salesmen and designers throughout the boat show, and got variations on the same answer: The reality of boat design requires cramming as much into the available space as possible, and thus a certain athleticism may be required of the crew. Frye accepted that reasoning with regards to pure performance boats-his former boat, a Stiletto 27, had some big steps (even those he modified to suit his familys needs). However, while this kind of compromise is fine for flat-out racers, it makes little sense for a cruising boat. Some designers have listened, and they create step sizes that are reasonable. But they remain the minority.

So what can we do? Between his wifes knee replacement and his own joint problems (he shattered his knee in college), Frye has had to make modifications to several of his boats, most recently a PDQ 32 catamaran. After looking at his own succesful solutions and making an informal survey of the ergonomics aboard boats at the most recent boat shows, he compiled the following report.

Adapting Existing Boats

Before running out to buy a new boat-most older sailors are happy with the boat they have-we should look at little modifications that can make big differences aboard the boats we have. Here are some modifications Frye and others have used to improve onboard ergonomics.

Runt steps: Many helm stations aboard big cats and some monohulls seem to be designed for 7-foot-tall sailors. Men of average height, women, and young sailors generally find their feet swinging comically in the air when they sit at the helm of one of these boats. This gives no leverage for working the wheel unless they sit on the very edge of the bench.

On catamarans, a runt box is a simple solution. The low-profile stool sits at the helm; it has rounded corners that cannot flip, slide, or snag ropes; and it has storage space for cockpit clutter in the hollow. It can be used permanently, or temporarily to check fit until a permanent step can be designed and installed. One of the boats Frye looked at, the very comfortable Antares 44 catamaran, comes with a runt box at the helm that can be customized to the height of the boat owner.

A well-made runt box can also be of assistance when you are getting in and out of the cockpit on a big catamaran. This is often a matter of stepping up onto the seats, and then up onto the deck, two 16- to 18-inch steps in a row. This can be double-trouble for damaged knees and for anyone carrying a heavy load. Fold-down steps can also work for this problem.

Another place where a portable step comes in handy is down below. Because of the way hulls curve, bunks are often set up high to take full advantage of the boats beam. In the case of his own boat, Frye found a custom-fitted sea chest to be a perfect solution, providing just the right step height, a convenient place to store shoes, and a nautical touch.

Hand loops and handholds: Sometimes steps cannot be made shorter, and an extra handrail would get in the way. For these places on board his boat, Frye has crafted some simple grab loops made from 1-inch webbing. He has found these to be better than grabrails because they are high and grip the wrist. They also provide considerable security when descending the stairs in an active seaway. They take no space, cost almost nothing to install, and can easily be stowed, although you could leave them rigged all the time. Frye used sail ties to create his loops during the boats first trip seven years ago. They have remained in use, unchanged, and since then, he has added a few more.

Stainless handholds are often too small in diameter for optimum grip. Wrapped tightly with line, they are more comfortable and secure. Fancy coach whipping is not required, but it does need to be applied very tightly. To make it really tight, don a pair of grippy sailing or gardening gloves, and give the wrapping a couple of hard twists.

Mast steps and companionway ladders: Frye is an enthusiastic climber; he spends summers on rock and winters on vertical ice. Yet, he finds the setups for mast steps and companionway ladders to be a challenge-and has since he was much younger. The norm for these installations seems to be around 15 inches between steps. Frye knew that rock-climbing etriers (tiny webbing ladders used when climbing big walls) are based on 10-inch steps. Why are sailors expected to climb steps so much higher than those designed for super-fit rock climbers?

According to the U.S. Occupational and Safety Health Administration (OSHA), ladder rungs should be 12 inches apart. Clearly when installing mast steps, you want to minimize weight aloft and reduce windage, but you also need to be realistic with the spacing. Companionway steps are also a common challenge. The companionway ladders on many of the boats Frye looked at were no better than his own, which has steps placed 15 inches apart.

Swim ladders also should have reasonable spacing, with at least four steps below the water. The steps should be proper, flat, deep steps (at least 2 inches deep) rather than tubes and railing extensions. A fit sailor can board with a lesser ladder, but when tired or boarding in bumpy conditions, a proper swim ladder will always be appreciated.

Lifeline gates: Stepping over a lifeline to take lines ashore can be treacherous, and stepping over them to board is just silly. Although it is less expensive to keep the lifeline circuit intact, adding additional gates fore, aft, or midships can make a big difference when boarding. One issue to be aware of is that if the stanchions at gates are not braced, you run the risk of creating too much slack in the lifeline when the gate is open. Boarding crew might reach out for the slack lifeline, only to feel it give under their weight. Frye, who added a gate near the bow for taking lines ashore, found that even though he could not brace the gate stanchion, he could lash the upper lifeline down to the stanchion with whipping twine to help keep the stays taught.

When checking out a new boat, your eye is drawn to a graceful sheer, efficient running rigging, and beautiful interiors, but often, not much thought is given to moving around easily. As you move around the boat, imagine yourself dead tired and sore, the decks wet and heaving. What features really matter?

Boarding: Have you noticed that many boats provide boarding platforms at the boat show, even though there will be none in the real world? Wouldnt you find that strange if you were buying a car or a house? Some boats offer easy boarding from a floating dock though opening transoms, but will you want to open the transom every time you board guests? Will you back in that close to the dock? Will stern lines cross right where the transom door will drop?

Then there is the matter of tides at fixed docks. Can you step, not climb, aboard as the boat moves through a 5-foot range? Yes, you can carry portable boarding steps (see Search for Safe Boarding Boost, this issue) on board, but they have to be stored and are not always the most stable climbing platforms-and perhaps none of the crew is spry enough to be in charge of placement and retrieval.

A boarding plank? These have to be well designed and can be difficult to stow (see The Art of the Passarelle, this issue).

Sugar-scoop transoms help if the sides are low, but often, high sides are sculpted for aesthetic reasons; unfortunately, this adds nothing to function and often ruins the easy side-access that sugar-scoop transoms can afford at any state of tide.

Weve also seen perfectly accessible transoms ruined by a fixed railing in the wrong place. Some boats mold steps into the topsides, but most are too shallow to be used by a man with his arms full.

Fryes solution? He bought a boat with sugar-scoop transoms that are easily accessed from the side, so one of the steps is always at the correct height at any state of tide. He devised a small tackle to pull the boat tight to the dock (it is only in place during active boarding). If the dock is slippery, he places either a high-grip mat or a towel, which sometimes grabs the dock better, on the edge of the dock.

Companionway steps: This is an area of common disagreement. People with knee problems often prefer shallower, angled companionway steps, more like a steep staircase, while others believe a steeper ladder is better in a seaway. Additionally, ladders can present a problem when loading supplies on a big boat. The ladders are not safe to descend facing outward, so, on a big boat where the cockpit is not within easy reach of someone standing on the cabin sole, supplies must be passed through the companionway to a partner. Stairs and ladders each have their pros and cons; the important thing is to consider which best meets your and your crews needs, especially while underway in rough conditions, or while loading supplies.

On deck: Can you move everywhere, above and below decks, without letting go of a handhold? Is the handhold a secure, round shape three-quarters to 1-inches in diameter? Will it be slippery when wet? Stainless is more secure when wrapped with leather or line. Be realistic about your hand strength. Is there a good place to run jacklines on deck, free of deck control lines? Are dedicated anchors provided, or can they be easily added? Shouldnt jacklines be incorporated in the basic boat design, like seat belts?

Dinghy boarding: Unless every stop will be at a marina, the mobility-

challenged sailor will find themselves isolated on the boat while the group runs off to play unless there is easy dinghy boarding. Most boats provide no safe facility for the less agile sailor to board a dinghy. Can you imagine a car or home manufacturer expecting you to use a portable ladder every time you entered or exited?

A portable, folding ladder will serve in a pinch, but ideally, a cruising boat should have a fixed swim ladder and solid boarding steps. For those with more significant mobility issues, a proper boarding platform is the best solution. There should be a way to tightly secure the dinghy to the platform and a solid handhold between the dinghy and the platform. Davits and the tackle hanging from them can serve well.

Swim ladders: Swim ladders should always have at least four steps with full treads. Three steps just don’t work for old knees, and tubing is tough on the feet. There should also be handgrips as they come up.

Are these major design challenges? We don’t think so. Some designers get it, and build very accessible boats. Others live in an alternate reality, expecting the buyers to bend to what they are presented, blinded by appearance and overlooking function. Perhaps, if we speak up, more builders will listen.

1. A fixed, high railing on this center-cockpit boat provides security and easy handholds at sea. Notice the cut-away step to get into the high cockpit. The railing can help ease this transition when leaving the cockpit to go forward or aft. 2. Rigid louvers built around saloon windows on this catamaran serve two purposes: They cut down on heat below, and they double as easy steps to get up to the mast, which unfortunately does not have enough flat area for a proper standing workstation. 3. A fixed, centerline dining table and overhead handholds make this boat’s main saloon safe to traverse, even in a seaway. 4. The more open “dance floor” on this cruiser gives crew few places to brace themselves or hold on when moving forward or aft.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

re: Tall-step Syndrome … and other insults to the aging sailor.

would have been interesting to learn the height of the author…. soooo many boats are in fact designed for the short to ultra short , if I hear one more NavArch or broker describe 6’3″ is Cathedral headroom I’ll throttle them. I am 6’5″. The author looks like a typical short man with issues.

Bet you’re fun at parties.

Ergonomics are a complicated issue, with problems for the particularly large or small only being a part. As the article implies, design for the intended users vs. for marketability at the boat show dock.

I can’t help pointing out some oddities in the pictures accompanying the articles. In the set of four under the heading, “50-foot Catamaran Details,” the first and third are clearly a monohull. And, as a former owner of own, I’m pretty sure the second picture is a 42-foot Manta Catamaran. The louvers described as doubling up as steps actually were not engineered to be used as steps. In fact, based on my recollection, I’m pretty sure that the fuzzy rectangle visible in the picture on the left top of the uppermost louver is a sign which reads, “DO NOT STEP HERE.”

Another ergonomic quirk of the Manta was that the companionway door sill was something like 6-8 inches above the cockpit floor but an unexpected 12-14 inch drop on the other side to the salon floor. Just enough to throw you off. Courtesy of the location of the fuel tank.

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Get On Board with Dock Stairs

Dock steps are a very important piece of equipment to have on the boat dock. Many people have boats that sit several feet above the water. To climb on and off a docked boat can sometimes pose risk and challenges. If your boat sits higher than the dock, it makes it more difficult to climb in and out. Imagine trying to climb in your boat with a handful of bags and a small cooler when your boat entrance is 5 feet above the water. Seem difficult? I would be. With dock steps, your problem is solved. They are light weight, yet can hold hundreds of pounds with ease. Here at iboats, we offer dock steps, boat steps, single and multiple step, step boxes. We even carry cockpit and folding steps, too. We only sell brands from the most well known manufacturers such as Dock Edge, Garelick and JIF at prices you most certainly can afford.

About Dock Steps

Dock steps are a very important piece of equipment to have on the boat dock. Many people have boats that sit several feet above the water. To climb on and off a docked boat can sometimes pose risk and challenges. If your boat sits higher than the dock, it makes it more difficult to climb in and out. Imagine trying to climb in your boat with a handful of bags and a small cooler when your boat entrance is 5 feet above the water. Seem difficult? It would be. With dock steps, your problem is solved. They are light weight, yet can hold hundreds of pounds with ease. Here at iboats, we offer dock steps, boat steps, single and multiple step, step boxes. We even carry cockpit and folding steps, too. We only sell brands from the most well known manufacturers such as Dock Edge, Garelick and JIF at prices you most certainly can afford. We also carry dock ladders and boat ladders .

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