sailboat line cutter

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Shaft Driven Line Cutters

Get A Prop has a complete of shaft driven rope cutters, to prevent damage to your boat propellers, and shafts. We offer Line Cutters from Spurs, Prop Protector, Shaft Shark and Shaft Razor and for an inexpensive alternative look at our Seashield Limited Clearance Zinc Line Cutters. If you do not see what you are looking for, or are not sure what you need, please call us at 866-790-7767 or email us at [email protected]

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Limited Clearance Line Cutter 0.750"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 3/4"Zinc OD: 2"Blade OD: 2.5..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 0.875"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 7/8" Zinc OD: 2" Blade OD: 2..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 1.000"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 1" Zinc OD: 2.25" Blade OD: ..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 1.125"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 1 1/8" Zinc OD: 2.50" Blade ..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 1.250"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 1 1/4" Zinc OD: 2.50" Blade ..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 1.375"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 1 3/8" Zinc OD: 2.75" Blade ..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 1.500"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 1 1/2" Zinc OD: 3.00" Blade ..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 1.750"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 1 3/4" Zinc OD: 3.75" Blade ..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 2.000"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 2" Zinc OD: 3.75" Blade OD: ..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 2.250"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 2 1/4" Zinc OD: 4.00" Blade ..

Limited Clearance Line Cutter 2.500"

Seashield Marine Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly.Shaft Diameter: 2 1/2" Zinc OD: 4.00" Blade ..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 3.15" Solid

Prop Protector Line Cutter Slide on Type... 3.15" Blade Diameter for 3/4"-1 1/4" shafts.Manufactured..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 3.15" Split

Prop Protector Line Cutter Clamp on Type... 3.15" Blade Diameter  3/4"-1" shafts.Supplied as an..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 3.35" Split

Prop Protector Line Cutter Clamp on Type... 3.35" Blade Diameter for use with 1 1/8"-1 1/4" shafts.S..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 3.74" Split

Prop Protector Line Cutter Clamp on Type... 3.74" Blade Diameter for 1 3/8"-1 1/2" shafts.Supplied a..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 3.94" Solid

Prop Protector Line Cutter Slide on Type... 3.94" Blade Diameter for 1 1/4" and 30mm shafts.Manufact..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 3.94" Split

Prop Protector Line Cutter Clamp on Type... 3.94" Blade Diameter for use with 1 3/8"- 1 1/2" shafts...

Prop Protector Line Cutter 4.13" Split

Prop Protector Line Cutter Clamp on Type... 4.13" Blade Diameter for use with 1 3/4"-2" shafts.Suppl..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 4.57" Split

Prop Protector Line Cutter Clamp on Type... 4.57" Blade Diameter for  2 1/4"-2 1/2" shafts.Supp..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 4.72" Solid

Prop Protector Line Cutter Slide on Type... 4.72" Blade Diameter. 1 3/4"-2" shafts.Manufactured in o..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 5.00" Split

Prop Protector Line Cutter Clamp on Type... 5.00" Blade Diameter for 1 3/4"-2" shafts.Supplied as an..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 5.90" Split

Prop Protector Line Cutter Clamp on Type... 5.90" Blade Diameter for 1 1/2"-2 1/2" shafts.Supplied a..

Prop Protector Line Cutter 7.48" Split

Prop Protector Line Cutter Clamp on Type... 7.48" Blade Diameter for 2 3/4"-4" shafts.Supplied as an..

Shaft Razor Line Cutter 3.00" Split

Shaft Razor Line Cutters 300 Split unit fits shaft diameters 3/4" thru 1 1/4"Cutter Outside Diameter..

Shaft Razor Line Cutter 4.00" Split

Shaft Razor Line Cutters 400 Split unit fits shaft diameters 1" thru 1 3/4"Cutter Outside Diameter: ..

Shaft Razor Line Cutter 5.00" Split

Shaft Razor Line Cutters 500 Split unit fits shaft diameters 1 1/4" thru 2 1/2"Cutter Outside Diamet..

Shaft Razor Line Cutter 6.00" Split

Shaft Razor Line Cutters 600 Split unit fits shaft diameters 2" thru 3"Cutter Outside Diameter: 5.93..

Shaft Razor Line Cutter 7.00" Split

Shaft Razor Line Cutters 700 Split unit fits shaft diameters 2 1/2" thru 3 1/2"Cutter Outside Diamet..

Shaft Razor Line Cutter 9.00" Split

Shaft Razor Line Cutters 900 split unit fits shaft diameters 3 1/2" thru 5"Cutter Outside Diameter: ..

Shaft Shark Line Cutter 12.00" Split

Shaft Shark 1200 single unit fits shaft diameters 5.00" thru 6.00"Cutter Outside Diameter: 12.00" Cu..

Shaft Shark Line Cutter 3.00" Split

Shaft Shark 300 split unit fits shaft diameters 3/4" thru 1 1/4" and 25-30mm.Cutter Outside Diameter..

Shaft Shark Line Cutter 4.00" Split

Shaft Shark 400 split unit fits shaft diameters 1 1/4" thru 1 3/4" and 30-40mm.Cutter Outside Diamet..

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Propeller rope cutter test

• Emrhys Barrell
• April 14, 2015

At best, a rope around the propeller is inconvenient. At worst, it’s deadly. Emrhys Barrell tests seven rope cutters to find out if they really can keep your prop turning

Rope cutters can free you from a knotty situation, but which is best for your boat? Credit: Graham Snook/YM

‘Cast off the bow line,’ I called. I waited for the line to sink and engaged forward gear to leave our marina berth in the Mediterranean. I should have waited longer. Suddenly, the engine died as the fixed mooring line was now firmly wrapped around the three-blade propeller of our Gib’Sea 32. Back in our berth, I cut an 8ft length from the end of a hosepipe, attached one end to a stanchion, put the other in my mouth and stepped off the stern to investigate [THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED].

The line was soon freed and we left with nothing more serious than dented pride and a slightly shorter hosepipe, but a boat rope wrapped around the prop can often have more serious consequences. On a lee shore in a gale, or in foggy shipping lanes, it could easily end in disaster. Whether it’s a stray sheet tail or an abandoned fishing net, once you lose propulsion, you lose a lot of options.

Fitting a rope cutter is a good way of keeping your options open, but how effective are they? We located a test tank and put seven different cutters to the test, to see how good they are at slicing through ropes, fishing nets, wire and plastic – and still keep your prop turning. This is the most comprehensive and detailed study of rope cutters published in a UK sailing magazine.

How rope cutters work

There are at least eight different makes of cutter on the UK market. Three are scissors-type cutters, four use discs and one is a shaver.

The scissors-type was the first on the market. It comprises a rotating cutter clamped to the shaft, with two or more blades, plus a fixed cutter bolted to the P-bracket. As the prop rotates, obstructions are drawn down into the scissor blades and cut or chopped up.

The advantage is a positive cutting action, which also shreds weed and netting. There are various drawbacks: it’s a complex installation and you may need to fit a spacer in the gearbox coupling. Every two years or so, you will have to replace the thin plastic bearings, on which the fixed cutter spins on the shaft. Scissor cutters cause more drag than some other types and are the most expensive to buy.

Because of the loads on the fixed block of the scissor-types, they can usually only be fitted to metal P-brackets, stern tubes or hulls. GRP is not strong enough to stop the tapped machine-screws pulling out, though in some cases a plate can be made up to take the block, which is then glassed or bolted to the hull or tube. A scissor cutter is the only option for saildrives.

This type of cutter is a thin stainless steel disc with a sharpened edge. The disc can be split and clamped round the shaft, or solid, in which case the prop has to be removed and the disc slid up the shaft. In both cases the cutter is held in place with a grub screw. As the shaft spins, any rope or debris that is drawn down to the disc is gradually cut through as it passes over the knife-edge.

The advantages are simple installation and low cost, plus minimal drag underway. Disadvantages include the lack of a positive cutting action – discs can struggle to cut through weed and plastic sheeting. Disc types can be fitted to any shaft-drive boat. For a long-keel yacht with a keel-hung rudder, you may have to widen the prop aperture on the leading edge of the rudder.

The shaver is a new development comprising fixed blades mounted on a block attached to the P-bracket or stern tube. GRP stern tubes may need some strengthening, depending on build quality. A plastic spool or cylinder is slid over the shaft and attached to the front boss of the prop, running under the cutter blades. As rope or debris is encountered, it is forced into the gap between the blades and the prop. As the blades spin, the rope is gradually shaved through.

Advantages include reduced load on the structure and transmission during cutting, plus minimal loss of boat speed. The disadvantage is complex installation and the need for accurate fitting in a machine shop. Pricewise, shavers are midway between discs and scissors, although you would have to add in the cost of machining the prop and sometimes the P-bracket, too.

How we tested the rope cutters

We explained to all eight manufacturers how our tests would be conducted and invited suppliers to send us samples and attend the test. Plastimo couldn’t provide us with a unit, so we bought one. We were unable to test the Quickutter shaver – its maker declined to participate, citing concerns over the suitability of out test tank and rig for evaluating the performance of a shaver. We would be pleased to hear of any readers’ experiences with shaver-type cutters. It’s worth noting that the RNLI has fitted Quickutters to its entire fleet of Tamar-class lifeboats.

We fitted each of the cutters in turn to the test rig’s P-bracket and shaft to see how easy this was to carry out. In theory, anyone with reasonable DIY skills can fit a cutter to their boat. In practice, you need to be confident of your abilities, especially with the scissor-action units. When it is working in anger, a scissor cutter exerts enormous loads, especially to the fixed structure it is attached to, and it is no use if it breaks free. Disc cutters put less load on the structure, but even these need to be competently fitted. If you are in any doubt, get a boatyard to fit it for you.

You could dry your boat out against an old quay wall and work with one eye on the encroaching flood-tide, but for most owners the sensible option is to haul out for the fitting. Bear in mind that a quick lift – with the boat not leaving the slings, and the yard doing the job for you – will usually cost no more than having her lifted into a cradle, ready for you to do the honours.

For the scissors-type, you will have to drill and tap the P-bracket accurately. You also need to be sure that you have the correct clearance between the P-bracket or stern bearing and the prop. This distance is critical for all cutters, but especially for the scissor-action models. Many shafts will not have enough free length exposed, in which case you will have to fit a spacer between the gearbox and the coupling to move the shaft back by the required amount. Cutter manufacturers can usually supply you with the right spacer to suit most common gearboxes.

Cutters must be spaced 6-10mm back from the P-bracket or stern tube to take up any movement as the engine goes into ahead, and to allow a flow of water through the cutless bearing. All cutters must be fitted to the parallel section of the shaft, not the taper, or they will slip. Scissor types also need to be lined up correctly, relative to the propeller blades, to reduce interference with water flow into the prop. All manufacturers recommend you use a threadlock liquid on the screws to prevent them undoing.

The test tank

An electric motor powered the test rig and a window allowed us to film what went on

The tank was 1.2m long, 0.6m wide and 0.9m deep. In this was fixed a P-bracket with a cutless bearing carrying a 3.81cm (1½in) mild steel shaft with a tapered end, and a 40cm by 30cm (16in by 12in) fixed three-blade bronze prop driven by a 2.2kW electric motor.

The test materials

Our test materials were a combination of line, tarp, netting and wire

The most common material encountered on passages is floating rope, either long lengths or bundles. Also common is netting of all sizes and thicknesses, and plastic sheeting, fertiliser bags or tarpaulin. Finally, you could also hit a lobster pot line.

To best replicate these materials, we took the following: three-strand polypropylene rope – 6mm, 12mm and 25mm diameter; three-strand and braided polyester – 15mm and 25mm; and three-strand 15mm nylon rope.

We also tried a wide variety of netting, from the finest monofilament, through 3mm nylon and up to 4mm polypropylene. These nets, we are assured by a UK fishing industry supplier, are what you are most likely to encounter around our coasts. The net was cut into 1m x 2m rectangles and fed into the prop.

We then took heavy-duty polytarp sheeting, also cut into 1m x 2m rectangles. This was followed by 10mm2 copper cable, and finally 1.5mm-diameter galvanised steel wire, both single strand and cable.

We started the engine in ahead, and got it running up to speed. Initially, we fed the rope into the scissor cutters and let them draw it in and cut it up. However, the disc cutters didn’t pull the rope in – there was no load on it, so they wouldn’t cut it. In a real-life situation, you would be encountering long lengths or bundles of rope, which would provide tension at the end, or the rope would get caught round your stern gear, which would also create resistance and tension.

To simulate this effect, we fed the rope from ahead of the P-bracket, with one turn taken round it, and kept a gentle tension on the end. This drew the rope down onto the blades.

If the cutters chopped the rope, we classed this as a ‘pass’. Sometimes the ropes would stall the motor, so we reversed its direction, which again you would do in real life. It should be noted that we were only using a 3hp motor. In reality, greater horsepower would make the cutting action more effective. The same techniques were applied to the netting and tarp but the wire was fed into the spinning cutter from ahead.

This was the first successful cutter, developed in 1982 in the USA. A scissors-type, it comprises two spinning blades and one fixed. The blades are claw-shaped, so rope can be trapped between them as they spin, and can’t be thrown out. The blades are made from hardened 17-4PH grade stainless steel. Spurs claims this makes it sharper for longer and can deal with harder materials better. This grade of stainless is more prone to corrosion, so a small anode is fitted as standard. Fitting is straightforward, with a 16-page manual.

The Spurs chopped through every type of rope instantly and the finer netting. The toughest net required reversing the engine but this is what you would do in practice. The tarpaulin was also dealt with quickly, with one reverse chewing it up completely. The copper wire was snipped in one pass, as was the steel rod. The flexible wire was cut once but the second time it jammed between the blades. In fairness, the manufacturer doesn’t claim this unit will cut wire.

Sizes: From ¾in to 6½in

Drive: Shaft only

Stripper 4*

The only cutter that fits a saildrive, Ambassador Marine’s Stripper arrived on the market shortly after Spurs. This manufacturer took an alternative design for its cutters, with serrated edges claiming to hold the rope in the jaws while it is being cut. Otherwise it uses the same principle of a fixed block, machine-screwed to the P-bracket with fixed and cutting blades on the shaft. It is made of 316-grade stainless steel, unhardened. The Stripper is available in 2, 3 or 4-blade versions, depending on the number of blades on your prop. It also has the option of a venturi tube, clamped to the P-bracket, which is claimed to reduce cavitation over the prop, extending its life and reducing loss of performance underway. One other variation is jacking screws on the fixed block, which allow you to adjust its shape to different radius P-brackets.

The Stripper cut all the rope quickly. On occasions free rope tended to be thrown out from the blades, but was drawn in and cut as soon as it wrapped round the shaft. Netting was quickly shredded, as was the polytarp, after one reverse. The copper wire was cut cleanly, as was the single strand steel but the steel wire tended to jam in the blades.

Sizes: From ¾in to 4in

Drive: Shaft or saildrive

This new unit on the market was developed by two boat owners tired of getting ropes caught round their props and breaking their existing cutters. They looked at the current designs and claim to have made improvements. The scissors-type Gator has three blades, which are serrated and dove-tailed in shape. This is claimed to snag ropes and prevent them from being thrown outwards. They have also strengthened key areas of the construction, beefing up the sections of the rings and their locking mechanism, and adding stiffeners to the back of the blades. It is made of unhardened, 316-grade stainless steel. The fixed block also has three jacking screws.

The Gator instantly chopped the rope and shredded the netting and polytarp after a reverse, with no tendency to throw it outwards. The copper wire was chopped cleanly but the steel wire tended to jam the blades after one cut.

Sizes: From 1in to 3in

Plastimo 3*

A solid disc cutter, so only available in slide-on versions. Made from unhardened 316 stainless steel, it has a serrated edge that claims to give a better cutting action. The disc section was thinner than its rivals and despite being supplied as suitable for a 1½in shaft, it seemed a loose fit. Fitting it was simple, though, once you had removed the prop.

The Plastimo cutter cut the rope quickly and the netting eventually. It wasn’t clear whether the serrations were a benefit, giving more of a sawing action, or a drawback, tending to snag the materials, and stall the engine. The polytarp was cut once it was held down, the serrations doing a better job than the smooth discs, but at times it got snarled up round the prop. None of the wires were cut.

Sizes: From 22mm to 80mm

R&D Marine, a well-known supplier of stern gear, has recently developed a disc cutter. It features a tapered leading edge to the boss, which is machined to the outside diameter of the P-bracket. The benefit of this is that it shrouds the bracket, preventing rope from being drawn down into the gap between it and the cutter. Other features include holes through the disc, which claim to improve water flow to the prop. Made of 316 stainless, unhardened steel, it has heavier sections than its rivals.

The R&D cutter cut the rope cleanly, and the netting after a couple of reverses with none of it being drawn down into the shaft. Again, the polytarp was cut as soon as tension was applied but it still hung round the blades on some occasions. Reversing removed it most times. None of the wires were cut.

Sizes: From 20-50mm

Prop Protector 3*

Prop Protector

This disc cutter has been on the market for over 10 years. Available in slide-on or clamp-on versions, it is easy to fit, backed up by a four-minute installation DVD. Just drill a dimple in the shaft, then clamp the two halves together, and tighten up the grub screw. It is made from unhardened 316 stainless steel. It had the sharpest edge of all the units, and came with a plastic ring to stop you from cutting yourself during fitting and a warning notice.

The Prop Protector cut the rope cleanly, and all the netting. It didn’t shred the netting but cut through it, dividing it in two, and would prevent your boat being anchored by a long length. When the polytarp was left to drift into the prop, it tended to get caught on the blades and just swirled around, but as soon as a slight amount of tension was applied, it was cut through. However, it wasn’t shredded and sometimes remained on the blades, which would reduce thrust. In practice, a large sheet would possibly apply enough drag to make the cutter work. It couldn’t cut any of the wires, though. The netting and smaller diameter ropes could sometimes be drawn down into the gap between the cutter and the P-bracket but reversing tended to loosen this.

Sizes: From 1in to 4in

Shaft knife 3*

Shaft Knife

Another disc cutter, this time from TW Norris, a supplier of propellers and stern gear. This cutter was found late in the day, so it missed the main photo session. However, we were still able to put it through the tests. This slide-on unit, made from unhardened stainless steel with a smooth edge, was simple to fit.

The Shaft Knife performed similarly to the other smooth-edge discs, cutting the rope and netting, plus the tarpaulin when it was held down. None of the wires was cut.

Sizes: from ¾in to 2½in

Our test clearly shows that any rope cutter will bring a definite safety benefit. Watching them in action, it was amazing how quickly they all cut through most of the debris we threw at them.

Clearly the scissors-type had the edge in what they would handle, coping with rope, netting, polytarps and even copper or thin steel wire. The disc cutters sliced through rope and netting, and made a good shot at polytarp but this could sometimes defeat them. Disc cutters could potentially have the same problem with weed.

All three scissor cutters performed well, with each one having some advantages over the other styles on test. Of the discs, the clamp-on versions have a definite fitting edge, judging by the effort required to get the prop off our test rig. The R&D cutter benefits from its tapered leading edge, which shrouds the exposed shaft.

Obviously, price, ease of fitting and your boat’s hull type have a bearing on which you choose. The scissors-type is the most costly option. The disc-types are much cheaper to buy, and the clamp-on disc versions are the easiest to fit, taking just a few moments.

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Shaft Shark Saildrive Model

$ 1,557.00 Original price was: $1,557.00. $ 1,323.20 Current price is: $1,323.20.

A serrated edge circular blade that cuts away any rope, weed or debris that might try to entangle your shaft & propeller.

Made in the USA.

Saildrive Model – available in three sizes.

Available as split units. Custom machining for tapered shafts is available. Please inquire.

Shaft Shark Instructions

List Price: $1557.00     |     Your Price: $1323.20

Description

Additional information.

• Reviews (0)

Shaft Shark Saildrive Model – Protect your drive train and propeller with the best rope, line and debris cutter there is.

The SHAFT SHARK is a serrated edge circular blade machined from high quality 316L type stainless steel. It attaches to your shaft just forward of the propeller and rotates with the shaft or saildrive hub, cutting away any rope, weed or debris that might try to entangle your shaft & propeller.  The SHAFT SHARK is a two-piece / split unit and may be installed on both shafts and saildrive systems.

• Keep your propeller free from rope, weeds and underwater debris
• Eliminate the possibility of damage to your propeller, strut and cutlass
• Eliminate the need for being towed due to fouled stern gear or propeller

The SHAFT SHARK for saildrives is installed on the clean saildrive propeller hub with the cutting blade facing forward and the lock bolts aft.  It is not required to remove the propeller for installation, nor is it necessary to remove or modify the saildrive leg zinc.  The Shaft Shark is kept securely in place by the clamp action of two allen-head bolts using Vibra-Tite VC-3 or Loctite on the screws/bolts.

See complete instructions here before installing your Shaft Shark.

Download the Shaft Shark Installation Instructions as a PDF

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SALCA Line Cutter Anode (Zinc)

Salca – sacrificial anode line cutter assembly.

• Easy size verification inside and outside.
• Easy installation-deep slotted stainless steel machine screws for maximum torque.
• Allen cap screws available upon request.
• Plastic Keeper rings prevent screws from falling out.
• Disc line cutter — guarding your boat against the hazard of propeller entanglement
• Two precisely sized halves that fasten around the shaft for best protection and to eliminate the risk of spinning
• Description

Distributors

The SALCA by Sea Shield Marine combines an anode with a line-cutter providing dual protection for your prop shaft driven vessel.

• Stainless steel allen cap screws available upon request.
• Innovative O-rings keep screws from falling out.
• Individually boxed with foam insert for safety.

Dual protection below the waterline

The SALCA (Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly) is the first unit to combine a sacrificial anode and disc line-cutter to give you dual protection against corrosion and propeller entanglement. By combining an extremely durable stainless steel disc line cutter to our already reliable MIL-SPEC anodes we were able to eliminate the difficult installations and constant maintenance headaches associated with traditional line-cutters. With the SALCA, you get an all-in-one unit that’s easy to install, requires no maintenance, and is made with the highest quality materials.

The SALCA uses only the highest quality materials and alloys to make sure that you have a durable unit that will stay efficient through the life of the product. The SALCA is made up of 2 parts  – 1) a MIL-SPEC standard pressure die cast anode, and 2) an extremely durable disc line-cutter.

SALCA Frequently Asked Questions:

Simple, we’ve combined a disc line-cutter with a high-quality anode, to give boat owners better protection and less hassle. It’s not rocket science but here’s the details…

The SALCA is comprised of 2 parts: 1) A high-quality, pressure die-cast zinc or aluminum anode 2) An extremely durable Stainless Steel Disc Line-Cutter. These 2 parts combine to create a highly durable and super effective unit that’s easy to install and maintenance free, while giving you dual protection against corrosion and propeller entanglement.

The SALCA should fit easily on most props where you would usually put a Limited Clearance Collar Anode.

The short answer is NO. We designed the SALCA to fit where most Limited Clearance Collar anodes will go. We don’t like the idea of increasing the gap between the strut and the hub, because it increases the danger of causing damage or even breaking the prop.

As of the moment, the SALCA is only available in Zinc and Aluminum.

The SALCA requires very little to no maintenance at all. The SALCAs combination of an extremely durable cutting-blade and high-quality anode is meant to be a low maintenance, no hassle solution to the usual difficult and maintenance heavy issues that come with traditional line-cutters – no sharpening, no difficult installation, no constant maintenance. Just treat it like you would a regular limited clearance anode; install it properly, keep it clean, and let the SALCA do its job by giving you dual protection of an anode plus a line-cutter.

This is a great question! At Sea Shield Marine we’ve been creating the best anodes on the market for over 40 years and it really shows with the quality of the SALCA. Like all our collar anodes the SALCA is designed with a tighter tolerance to prevent spinning, and is pressure die cast to make sure it wears evenly. No line-cutter can ever guarantee 100% protection – that’s just a fact, but we can assure you that the SALCA will perform consistently over the life of the anode. Just remember to change out the SALCA regularly – as you would with any anode.

Absolutely! Yes you can. Since you never know when and how entanglement will occur – you can add to your peace-of-mind by adding a second SALCA on the shaft. Example: SALCA #1 is installed right behind the Prop, while SALCA #2 is installed directly on the Prop Shaft. Now you have quadruple protection!!! Hey, when it comes to prop protection is there really a such thing as too much protection? We’ve seen this type of installation done before with great results.

WARNING! If you have a wooden boat hull be aware of “over-zincing” which could lead to passivation.

We don’t like the word “cheap”. We like to say the SALCA is more “cost effective”. Not only does the SALCA provide the same protection of a traditional line-cutter, but you also get the added benefits of corrosion protection from the high-quality anode – which you need to install anyway. When you add up the difficult installation and the ongoing maintenance of a traditional line-cutter – you could install multiple SALCAs and still come under the cost of most line-cutters.

Yes, it’s very easy to install. You don’t need to be a professional to put this baby on. The SALCA comes in 2 parts and uses 2 simple screws (slotted fillister or allen key) to install. If you can install an anode, you can install a SALCA.

Change it out like you would any anode on your marine vessel. We can’t give out exact time periods since the longevity of your anodes is relative to the waters you frequent.

Superior Alien Light Cutting Array!!! kidding . . . Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly. It also means dual protection against corrosion and propeller entanglement.

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Related products.

Metric SALCA Line Cutter Shaft Anode (Aluminum)

Beneteau Collar with SALCA (Aluminum)

Beneteau collar with salca (zinc).

Max Prop Universal Style (Zinc)

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Should You Consider Installing a Prop Shaft Line Cutter?

Originally published in Blue Water Sailing

Every year we hear of boats that are abandoned at sea or along the coast because they have lines or sheets tangled in their props and are unable to motor to safety. On sailboats, when the rig comes down, a fouled prop is the next likely thing to happen in the now cascading series of emergencies. Yet, even with the rig over the side, you ought to be able to motor home, you ought to be able to use your engine without getting lines tangled.

And, if you are headed into high latitudes where you often find heavy weed floating in the sea, you can’t afford to lose your engine since it is what will get you home when all else fails. And, if you are headed into the waters of the developing countries, where trash and debris are often a problem in harbors and rivers, the chance of getting a length of line or debris snagged in your prop increases dramatically.

The solution is to fit your prop shaft with a cutter that is designed to slice through a piece of line, a jib sheet, a piece of polypro netting or even a heavy length of seaweed.

There are four popular brands of line cutters on the market, one of which needs to have the boat out of the water for installation and three that can be installed on your shaft by a diver.

The simplest cutter out there is the Shaft Shark sold by AB Marine. This little disc is made of 316 stainless steel and has an extremely sharp serrated blade that will saw through even the gnarliest ropes. Available in a range of sizes, the Shaft Shark is designed to stand proud of the diameter of your prop’s hub so it will carve up anything that comes its way. Yet, it also presents a very small surface to the water so it induces almost no drag while sailing.

The Shaft Shark comes as two semicircles that fit tightly together around the prop shaft. This design means that you can attach the cutter to your prop while the boat is in the water. You may need to hire a diver to do this but it will be much cheaper than hauling the boat out at a boatyard.

The Prop Protector is another dead simple line cutter that can be installed on your shaft by a diver while the boat is in the water. British designed and manufactured, this cutter has a straight cutting edge that is honed to a razor finish and will cut quickly through anything it comes in contact with. Unlike the serrated blade cutters, the protector can be removed from the shaft and sharpened, which means it will give many years of reliable service. More than 20,000 Prop Protectors have been installed worldwide.

Spurs Marine has been manufacturing and selling their eponymous line cutter for many years. A more complicated cutter, the Spurs device uses a scissors action driven by the force of the turning prop shaft to cut through rope, weeds and debris. Designed for all sizes of yachts and large vessels, the cutters are built with hardened 316 stainless and sharpened to a razor edge.

The Spurs unit comes as two parts so you don’t have to pull the prop shaft to install one on your boat. But, because the installation is a bit more complicated than the disc cutters above, you will need to install your new cutter during the annual haul out or the next time you need to apply antifouling paint. Spurs will recondition and sharpen your cutter in their factory thus extending its lifespan indefinitely.

Volvo Marine offers a Volvo line cutter that is designed to work with Volvo engines and props. The cutters have serrated edges and come as two-part units that can be installed by a diver.

If you are sailing where there are lots of crab and lobster pots, coastal fish weirs and netting, concentrations of weed or lots of flotsam and jetsam—just about everywhere—then adding a line cutter to your prop is like adding real insurance. One day the cutter can make the difference between a minor incident and a cruise-ending accident

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Piranha Dual Line Cutters

Start » Shop » Line/Rope Cutters » Piranha Dual Line Cutters

$ 496.88 – $ 1,834.79

Tested in the rugged fishing grounds off New England and Canadian Maritimes, our Piranha Dual Line Cutters offer superior cutting performance and help protect your boat’s propeller and running gear from catastrophic failure due to entanglement in marine debris.

• Easy to Install (10 minutes or less)
• Dual Serrated Disc Cutters Offer Twice the Cutting Power
• Machined from High Grade Stainless Steel and Hand-sharpened
• Available for shaft diameters 1″ to 4 1/2″
• Manufactured in the U.S.A.

Download: Product Sheet [PDF]

Ordering Tip : For propeller shafts greater than 3″ in diameter, please contact us to ensure proper clearance with your propeller’s hub.  See our specification and sizing chart tab below for more information.

Product Details

Product description.

These disc style line cutters feature dual-serrated edges and provide twice the cutting surface area of conventional line cutters offering you redundancy and prolonged life span.

The Piranha line cutter’s split design allows for easy installation with your boat in or out of the water.

Benefits of Piranha Dual Line Cutters:

• Available for shaft diameters 1″ to 4 1/2″ (larger sizes available by special order)
• Custom machining available for tapered shafts and odd sized propeller hubs.

For more information including sizing and installation instructions, please refer to our Specifications | Sizing Chart tab below.

Specifications | Sizing Chart

*Standard Sizing : Diameter and width measurements can vary depending on boat’s propeller (based on forward hub diameter). Please contact us directly to ensure correct fit.

Related products

Rope Shields | Protect Your Boat’s Water Lubricated Stern Bearing

Stern Bearing with Packing Gland | FP Series

Duramax Johnson Cutless Bearings

Bronze stern bearings | ssb series.

Call Spurs at (800) 824-5372

See when spurs marine will be in a city near you, [email protected].

• PROPELLER MOUNTED SHIP CUTTERS

Propeller Mounted Ship Cutters

How do they work.

Spurs Line Cutter Systems use the propeller’s rotation and inertial force to power the cutting action. As the offending line enters the propeller vortex, it is wound toward the propeller hub. (NOTE: It is at this point that, without SPURS installed, the line would wind itself tighter and tighter, entering into the space between propeller hub and rope guard, where it can damage the oil seals.) Instead, the line is engaged by the rotating cutter blades and delivered to the stationary cutter blade. The sudden resistance sensed by the stationary cutter forces a cam action which causes the blade to be pushed outward, meeting the rotating blade and severing the obstruction.

The cutting force increases in direct proportion to the resistance sensed by the stationary cutter assembly. This shearing action means that the cutting blades never actually come into contact with each other. Hydrophilic and bronze surface bearings maintain precise cutter positioning when a resistance occurs. With each rotation, the cutters pass each other gliding on a thin lubricating film of water or within a few thousandths of each other, thus avoiding surface wear during long passages. The stationary cutter centers itself in the cutter guides as it passes through with each revolution of the propeller.

Propeller Mounted Systems

Until now, SPURS® has been well known for our Line, Net and Weed Cutters. Due to popular demand, we have developed the SPURS® SPACERS. The Spacers are installed between the transmission and shaft flanges to extend the shaft. The spacers are cold-rolled steel and nickel plated, tolerance .001 for all dimensions, and one inch thick (standard). Special orders can be made for thickness or size.

SPURS® manufactures cutter systems for fixed & variable pitch propeller and thruster systems.

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8 Popular Cutwater Canned Cocktails, Ranked Worst To Best

Although I love making cocktails as an experience at home, there's something extra special about having someone make a drink for you. Easy access to a canned version of your favorite cocktail is a pretty close second to some professional mixes. This is why I was so eager to taste and rank Cutwater's canned cocktails.

Cutwater is one of many canned cocktail brands that offer an impressive array of canned cocktails in many different varieties from margaritas to martinis. There are even a couple of unexpected ones, like a Long Island iced tea and Cutwater's Tiki Room Mai Tai. I tested some of the brand's popular drinks, so to rank these drinks firsthand. When sampling, I looked for cocktails that were enjoyable to sip and tasted like something I might purchase at a lounge during a night on the town. The ones that scored highest ended up with a nice balance of flavors that had some strength to them without tasting overpowering. 

Recommendations are based on first-hand impressions of promotional products provided by Cutwater.

8. Tequila Paloma

When it comes to a paloma cocktail , the mixture of tequila, grapefruit juice, lime, and soda water leads the way. However, Cutwater does it a little differently with its canned Tequila Paloma, choosing grapefruit soda instead of juice and soda water. This combination of tequila and grapefruit soda is very mild. The primary reason this one ranks at the bottom of my list is that I found the grapefruit soda to be far too subtle. I would have loved to have seen more grapefruit flavor come through and mix with the tequila.

When it comes to serving, the instructions on the can recommend rimming a glass with salt to enjoy this one. I opted to try something a bit different: I put salt on just a small section so the whole rim wasn't impacted. To make this one a little more flavorful, I highly recommend adding in some grapefruit juice and even a squeeze of lime to make this one much more enjoyable.

7. Vodka Mule

You just can't enjoy a Moscow mule without a copper mug. Okay, of course you can, but especially when sipping a cocktail from a can, I love jazzing it up whenever possible. So, for this one, I got some of my crunchy ice into a cooper mug.

Cutwater calls it a vodka mule, but this one is essentially a Moscow mule because it's made with ginger beer, vodka, and lime. The mix is quite light and made for very easy sipping. Where vodka can be very strong, the main flavors happening here are lime and, most notably, ginger beer. While I enjoy the mix as it stands for drinking causally, it feels far too easy going to be a cocktail. This can was one of my lesser favorites because I felt it should be stiffer, even if the flavor was a bit more enjoyable than the grapefruit. If you leave your expectations for a cocktail aside, it is well balanced to enjoy like a seltzer or wine cooler.

6. Long Island Iced Tea

When I cracked open the can of Cutwater Long Island Iced Tea, immediate visions of a crowded college bar came washing over my memory. This Long Island iced tea is identical to the ones bars in my college town would make in huge batches. As Andy Bernard from "The Office" calls them, they're sometimes known as a "bad decision in a glass." Even still, they make for a refreshing beverage on a warm summer day, and living in Florida, we get plenty of those.

Although I'm not a fan of Coca-Cola or Pepsi, I like it when it accompanies other things, and in a Long Island Iced Tea, it acts as both a nice coloring and just a little bit of extra sweetness and flavor. Unfortunately, I did find that the cola flavoring feels a little flat, even though it does seem to play its role overall. The rest of the flavors are certainly present as well with the tequila, gin, rum, and vodka meshing together to create that combination of brightness and bite. Although a Long Island Iced Tea isn't something I've ordered at a bar in a very long time, sipping one from Cutwater is definitely an enjoyable experience. The cola aspect did impact my overall preference, leading to a lower ranking on this drink versus some of the other citrus or coffee-forward drinks on this list.

5. Lemon Drop Martini

Though I enjoy martinis, they always verge a little on the too strong side for me, so I poured this one by Cutwater with a bit of trepidation. The first sip, however, proved that this was wholly unnecessary.

The lemon drop martini has a balance of sweetness, tart, and strength to create a drink that is sippable while also being widely enjoyable — just not for those who like a strong martini. I poured my chilled martini into a coup glass and found it tasty and easy drinking. It does feel a little like a lemonade as you continue drinking, so stanch martini fans may not enjoy this one. The casual drinker, however, will likely enjoy this one quite a lot. If you're concerned about whether the drink may be strong enough, consider having some vodka on hand to strengthen it and bring it to a level you're happy with — one of the major reasons this is a middling option. 

Though this one wasn't my favorite, I rank it in the middle of the pack because I can imagine many could find this enjoyable. Cutwater's Lemon Drop Martini probably wouldn't be the first can I'd pull from the fridge, however, especially if I wanted something with more substance, like the brand's take on classic cocktails. 

4. Lime Margarita

The drinks I tried from Cutwater explain there are either one or two shots of liquor in mix, according to symbols on the cans, but many of them still tasted too light even with "two shots." However, the lime margarita, which has two shots of liquor, went an impressively long way to making it taste much stronger than the other canned cocktails from the brand. The Cutwater margarita actually tastes much closer to a drink that you might enjoy at a bar or lounge. At 12.5% alcohol, compared to the 7% of the paloma, it certainly should be.

To serve this one, I rimmed my glass with salt to try to  make the perfect margarita . The Cutwater canned margarita with a salt rim definitely has the feel of a the classic recipe. I would recommend pouring this one out of the can and into a more appropriate glass to give him a full effect. While certainly enjoyable, this is still a middle flavor for me when compared to Cutwater's coffee-infused options. I found that a greater lime flavor might have made the lime margarita more of a standout. That said, because the tequila was more pronounced, this drink is a solid option.

3. White Russian

This Cutwater canned cocktail is much more milky than I was expecting. In a word: yum. The flavor of the brand's  white Russian recipe really comes from the coffee liqueur. While the coffee flavor is certainly present here, the main piece you're going to notice is just how smooth it is, especially pouring from a can. This drink could easily go down too quickly, so do proceed with some level of caution! 

I enjoyed mine poured over ice, but it could certainly be drunk right from the chilled can. If you like your white Russians a little more on the strong side, have some Kailua ready to amp up the drink. I could easily forget this version of a white Russian is from a can, however, and if it were served to me at a lounge, I'd have no idea the bartender just poured it right into my glass. Although I enjoyed this one, I still wish it were a bit stronger with the liqueur, even if that flavor was quite tasty. Due to its overall nod to the original and the feeling that it came from somewhere fancier than a can, I found Cutwater's White Russian to be one of my favorites on the list.

2. Espresso Martini

With as much as I enjoy coffee drinks every day, it was only a matter of time before I fell in love with the most delicious espresso martini . Thankfully, there are canned cocktail brands that are coming out with versions that you can drink right from the comfort of your own home. Cutwater's Espresso Martini can says it has two shots of vodka, coffee cream liqueur, and some kind of cold brew coffee flavoring. 

The mix amounts to a very smooth flavor that tastes closer to chocolate milk at first sip than anything else. Subsequent drinks allow the flavors to come through, and this is where you'll get your coffee taste. While the espresso element is definitely on the more mild side, but the notes of the coffee liquor do a lovely job of building over time. As one of my favorite in Cutwater's canned cocktail lineup, I appreciated the balance and subtle strength of the blend. I also appreciated that shaking the can before pouring also added a nice foam to the top as you get when enjoying an espresso martini in a lounge. Sure I'm currently loving espresso martinis, but this drink was certainly one of the most delicious and smoothest drinks in the bunch and why it earned one of the top spots. 

1. Tiki Rum Mai Tai

Mai tais are one of those drinks that are easy to fall in love with. Cutwaters' Tiki Rum Mai Tai is a blend of rum, coconut, pineapple, and some other unnamed citrus. Even though the can said it has two shots of rum in this martini, the drink tastes something closer to juice than an alcoholic drink.

To enjoy mine, I opted to pour it into crushed ice in my Star Wars tiki mug to really gather the full effect of a tiki style drink. Although this one certainly did not have a strong alcohol taste, the flavor of the drink itself was sippable and definitely reminded me of other mai tais I've had in restaurants and bars. The overall balance made this my favorite flavor among the bunch. If you're used to a more citrusy mai tai recipe , you'll find this one to be a little sweeter with a strong pineapple taste — but that's what made this canned cocktail quite enjoyable. Of all the drinks I tried, this was the one that earned itself a finished can and rightly earning that top spot.

Methodology

Although I love beer and wine, I am more of a cocktail girl at heart. The ability to have easy cocktails on hand for a drink as I settle down in the evening is definitely a huge draw for me. With that in mind, over the course of several nights, I enjoyed each of these canned beverages as I typically do when I enjoy homemade cocktails at home. 

After sipping each one, I ranked them according to their overall enjoyment factor, including important aspects as balance between the different elements in the drink and overall taste of alcohol since I like to know I'm sipping something more than just mixer. I found that flavor was the deciding factor between many of the choices, with the coffee liqueur-infused cocktails ranking above some of the fruit-forward options. I also noticed that if a drink was too weak, as in made with "one shot" of alcohol versus "two shots," the drink (generally) didn't fare as well. As a result, I searched for drinks without unnecessary sweetness that sometimes covered up the taste of liquor — something some readers might prefer. Overall, the drinks would, ideally, taste like similar cocktails I've previously enjoyed from a skilled mixologist. Some of the top contenders proved that a canned cocktail could hold up to the mixology test.

Outdoors | Another blue marlin weighing nearly 900 pounds…

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Outdoors | another blue marlin weighing nearly 900 pounds is landed, but white marlin open leaders remain unchanged.

Only 17 boats were fishing off the Ocean City coast Friday as most crews took a break in the 51st annual tournament that concludes Saturday.

Billfisher, a boat from Ocean City, caught a 76-pound white marlin on Thursday to pull into second place in that category. The catch is slated to earn more than $1.7 million if it holds up. Waste Knot, of Raleigh, North Carolina, remains in the lead atop the white marlin category with a 77.5-pounder and is in line to collect the top prize of $3.697 million if it stays there.

Moore Bills, also docked in Ocean City, landed an 894-pound blue marlin on Thursday to pull into second in its category, and is slated to earn $411,427. Stone Cutter, of St. Augustine, Florida, leads the blue marlin category with an 897.5-pounder worth a potential $518,000. The top three blue marlin catches all weighed in at 790-plus pounds — Bobojo, based in Manteo, North Carolina, brought in a 789.5-pound blue marlin.

The tournament’s 318 registered boats are permitted to fish on three of the tournament’s six days this year after expected inclement weather spurred officials to extend the tournament to Saturday. The event, billed as the world’s largest billfish tournament, begins at 8 a.m. and each boat is permitted to fish until 3:30 p.m.

Boats generally fish the canyon areas from 50-80 miles offshore in the quest for marlin, tuna, wahoo, dolphin and swordfish.

Boats from Hampton Roads, northeastern North Carolina and the Eastern Shore are among the entrants this year. Also among the registered boats is one owned by NBA legend Michael Jordan — an 82-foot Bayliss named Catch 23.

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Line Cutter

• Thread starter Ed
• Start date Aug 12, 2001
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Ask A Hunter Owner

About to order a new boat Hunter 306, shluld I have a line cutter installed on the prop shaft? I sail in Mystic Ct and the number of lobster pots are unbelivable. Any input?  

Definitely If you really analyze the bad accidents boats have, in an extraordinary number of times, when things really get out of hand is when the prop gets fouled. IMHO, a line cutter should be right up there in the most installed safety equipment. For some reason, not many people have them, but I have had mine for about eleven years, and would never have a boat without one. They are also great for kelp, etc.  

Aldo Lozano

Line cutter? Hummm... First time hear about it, but then, Tim, I am a very new sailor. In my line of work you see them in front of the helicopters...How they work and were you get them, Tim?Thanks, Aldo[email protected]  

I thought these were a gimmic until I hit a winter log earlier this year. My boat alreay had one on it.It Works Well.  

Don Alexander

Stripper A UK magazine tested them all using ropes and bits of netting.Stripper is best - and dearest.Spurs came second and is a little cheaper.The flat disk types with just a sharp edge hardly did anything at all - they don't cost much either.I fitted a Stripper but also carry the head from a long handled hedge lopper which I have adapted to fit on the end of an extending boathook. Bought very cheaply in a gardening shop and works with a string.The theory is to hook the line and sever it without needing to pull it to the surface.I am paranoid about getting caught on a string of lobster pots whilst running downwind and/or down tide. There would be no way to get the mainsail down and nobody on board strong enough to pull the boat back against the forces of wind and water.However, as with all insurances when you have them the need never seems to arise.Regards,Don.  

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Ovrelia's Notes in the Margin

Monday, november 8, 2010, moscow-petushki by venedikt erofeev - book review #110.

In this classic novel of Russian humor and social commentary, a cable fitter is fired from his job after accidentally sending out detailed graphs charting his coworkers' productivity against the amount of alcohol they consumed. From goodreads.com

1 comments:

This book sucks. I have to read it for a class in college and this is honestly one of the worst books I've ever read. It is impossible to follow, and makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. Horrible, horrible read.

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• Scuffed slippers and wormy books.... Mosey over to Wordpress... - Dear all, I have migrated this blog to Wordpress. WP is mobile and seems like it will be here for a while. Mayhaps it will be easier to update on the regu... 6 years ago
• Booking Through Thursday New Things - Everybody needs a change now and again, so what new topics or authors are you interested in these days? Or what new kinds of books do you wish you had time... 6 years ago
• The Compulsive Reader What I've Been Reading Lately - If you don't follow me on Litsy, here's a round up of my February reads (so far)! It was a pleasant mix of new releases and books I've been meaning to read... 7 years ago
• Linus's Blanket What I Read In July - Wars of the Roses: Bloodline by Conn Iggulden (Putnam) This is my first book in this historical fiction series exploring the War of The Roses, and now I wa... 8 years ago
• Dead White Guys: An Irreverent Guide to Classic Literature Cara Menghilangkan Bau Badan - [image: Cara Menghilangkan Bau Badan] Bau badan mungkin hal yang sangat dapat memalukan kita semua apabila orang tau mencium aroma dari badan kita. Siapa s... 9 years ago
• in which a girl reads an official end; but also announcing a new blogging home! - Hi everyone! It's been a very long absence. I've been MIA. I've just graduated from college (thank god!) and now I feel I finally have time to read and to ... 9 years ago
• All About {n} The Selection by Kiera Cass - Title: The Selection Author: Kiera Cass Pages: 327 Genre: YA / Distopian Source: Amazon Vine Program America Singer leaves her home behind to compete agai... 10 years ago
• The Story Siren -