motorboat noises

How Do You Motorboat? (The BEST Tips & Techniques)

Do you want to make the perfect motorboat noise? Have you been wondering what motorboating is and how to do it? Motorboating is a fun and unique way to make a sound and it can be a great addition to any routine.

In this article, we’ll cover the basics of motorboating, the benefits, essential steps, tips, variations, and interesting facts.

So, if you’re curious about how to make the best motorboat noise, read on!

Table of Contents

Short Answer

Motorboating is a silly sound effect created with one’s mouth.

To motorboat, open your mouth wide, stick out your tongue, and make a motorboat sound with your lips vibrating.

It can be made louder and faster by slightly wiggling your head.

Motorboating is usually done as a joke or to express excitement.

What is Motorboating?

Motorboating is a unique and funny way to make noise.

It involves cupping your hands around your mouth and blowing air through them to create a loud, vibrating noise.

This technique has been used for centuries, and it is sure to draw laughs from anyone within earshot.

It is a great way to lighten the mood in any situation, especially when you want to add a bit of humor to the conversation.

Motorboating is easy to do and requires very little preparation.

All you need to do is make an O shape with your lips and then blow air through your hands to create the noise.

It is important to keep your lips tight and your hands cupped in order to make the noise.

With practice, anyone can learn how to motorboat and add it to their repertoire of funny noises.

When motorboating, you should also be aware of the sound levels you are producing.

You dont want to be too loud and disrupt the peace, but at the same time, you want to make sure you can be heard.

If you are practicing motorboating alone, you may want to start off by using a softer sound and gradually increasing the intensity.

If you are with friends, you can all practice together and make sure everyone is comfortable with the sound levels you are producing.

Benefits of Motorboating

Motorboating can be a great way to add some fun and humor to any situation.

Not only is it a novel way to make noise, but it can also be used to create a memorable moment or lighten the mood.

When used correctly, motorboating can be a great way to show enthusiasm and support for a certain event or cause.

It can also be a fun way to show appreciation and gratitude.

Another great benefit of motorboating is that it can be used to get peoples attention.

Whether youre trying to call someones attention to something or just trying to get someones attention in general, motorboating can be a great way to do it.

Its also a great way to make a statement without saying a word.

Finally, motorboating is a great way to show your creativity and express yourself in a unique and memorable way.

With practice, you can learn how to create different sounds and rhythms with your motorboating, which can be a great way to show off your creative side.

Plus, its always fun to learn something new!

Essential Steps for Motorboating

Motorboating is a fun and unique way to make noise that often elicits smiles of amusement.

The basic technique involves making a loud, vibrating noise with your lips by cupping your hands around your mouth and blowing air through them.

To master motorboating, it is important to understand the essential steps.

Firstly, you need to form an O shape with your lips.

This is key to creating the vibrating sound.

Its also important to keep your lips tight in order to maintain the shape.

Secondly, you need to cup your hands around your mouth.

This will help to amplify the sound and create the desired vibration.

Make sure your hands are tightly cupped so that the air is forced through them.

Thirdly, you need to blow the air through your hands.

This is the final step and the key to creating the motorboat sound.

Make sure your lips stay tight and your hands are cupped tightly during this step to ensure the best possible sound.

Once you understand and practice these essential steps, you will be on your way to mastering the art of motorboating.

With some practice, you will be able to make the sound with ease and add it to your repertoire of funny noises.

So, the next time youre in the mood to make someone laugh, dont forget to motorboat!

Tips for Making the Perfect Motorboat Noise

Making a motorboat noise is a funny and unique way to get attention or add a little humor to a conversation.

Whether youre trying to make a funny comment in a group chat or want to add a little fun to a presentation, the motorboat noise is sure to get a laugh.

To make the perfect motorboat noise, youll need to practice a few techniques.

First, make an O shape with your lips.

This will help the air travel through your mouth and hands to create the motorboat noise.

Keep your lips tight and your hands cupped to create the best sound.

As you blow air through your hands, try to move your hands in a circular motion to create a more consistent sound.

You can also practice creating different tones by changing the shape of your mouth.

Try making an A shape or an E shape with your mouth and practice making the motorboat noise.

This will help you create a variety of sounds for different situations.

Another important tip to keep in mind is to practice your motorboat in different environments.

The sound of a motorboat can be affected by the size of the room or the acoustics of the space.

Try practicing in different environments to get used to the variations in sound.

Finally, practice makes perfect! Spend time practicing the motorboat noise until youre comfortable with the sound.

This will help you become more confident and comfortable making the motorboat noise in different situations.

By following these tips and techniques, youll be able to perfect the art of the motorboat noise and make people laugh!

Different Variations of Motorboating

Motorboating is a unique and fun way to make noise.

It involves making a loud, vibrating sound with your lips by cupping your hands around your mouth and blowing air through them.

There are many variations to motorboating that can help you perfect the sound and even add a bit of flair to your repertoire.

One variation is to move your hands in a circular motion around your mouth as you blow air through them.

This creates a unique sound that is louder and more complex than the standard motorboating sound.

Another variation is to use both hands to motorboat.

This creates a more powerful sound and allows you to control the pitch and sound of the noise.

You can also experiment with different hand positions to create different sounds.

Finally, you can try motorboating with an object, such as a balloon or a cup.

This can create a unique and interesting sound that is sure to impress your friends.

Just make sure to blow gently into the object to avoid popping it!

No matter what variation you choose, the key to great motorboating is practice.

Spend some time experimenting with different techniques and youll be motorboating like a pro in no time.

Interesting Facts About Motorboating

Motorboating is a unique and humorous way to make noise that involves cupping your hands around your mouth and blowing air through them.

The sound that is created is loud, vibrating, and unmistakable.

It is believed to have originated in the early 1900s, when people would go to amusement parks and try to imitate the sound of steamboats passing down the river.

Since then, motorboating has become a popular way to add some humor to any situation.

It is often used in movies and television shows, as well as in stand-up comedy.

It can also be used to add some fun and excitement to any party or gathering.

Motorboating is surprisingly easy to do.

All you have to do is make an O shape with your lips and then blow air through your hands.

With a bit of practice, anyone can learn how to motorboat and add it to their repertoire of funny noises.

When motorboating, it is important to be aware of your surroundings.

The sound of motorboating is quite loud and can be disruptive to people in close proximity.

It is best to do it in an area where it wont disturb anyone else.

Motorboating is a fun and unique way to make noise.

So the next time youre looking for a way to liven up a party or just have some fun, try motorboating!

How to Incorporate Motorboating into Your Routine

Once youve mastered the basics of motorboating, you can begin to incorporate it into your everyday life.

This is an excellent way to add some spice and humor to your conversations, and can be a great way to break the ice in awkward situations.

Motorboating can be used to add emphasis to a joke or funny story, or to break up an otherwise dull conversation.

It can also be used as a fun way to cheer on a sports team, or to show your approval or excitement for a particular event.

Another great way to use motorboating is in the car.

It can be a fun and unique way to express your joy or enthusiasm when listening to a song, or to show your appreciation for a great performance.

You can also use motorboating to make a statement or to show your displeasure with something.

Finally, motorboating can be used as a fun party trick.

Its sure to be a hit with your friends, and you can even teach them how to do it.

Motorboating can also be used to create a fun and unique atmosphere for any event, from a birthday party to a corporate function.

With a little practice and creativity, motorboating can be a great way to add some humor and fun to your daily life.

So get out there and show off your motorboat skills!

Final Thoughts

Motorboating is a fun and unique way to make noise that can add a funny and unexpected element to your conversations.

With practice, you can learn how to create the perfect motorboat noise and even add variations and interesting facts to your repertoire.

So why not give it a try? With the help of these best tips and techniques, you’ll be motorboating like a pro in no time!

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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Motorboating; what is it, 'why?', and how to fix it?

• Thread starter Wharfcreek
• Start date Mar 25, 2018

Jack of all trades, master of none!!

• Mar 25, 2018

I just completed a build of a little Single Ended EL84 guitar amp. I tried to follow a schematic from a Fender Tweed Princeton amp as best I could, but this was a 'left-over' parts project and I really had to rather 'make due' in some cases. The Princeton schematic uses a 6V6 and is at a much higher voltage than my PT could produce. I have a schematic for a similar amp that Antique Electronic Supply sells as a 'kit'...there MOD102 kit. I also incorporated parts of it into this build as well; particularly the output section and PS supply. I did use a choke......a Hammond unit, a 156 I believe......1.5H, 200ma, 50 ohms. Anyway....... the amp is about 98% there! It's up and working, has 'acceptable' numbers in most places. I've got about 230V on my EL84 plate, about 190V on the screen, and about 125V on the two 12AX7 plates. I'm running a 150 ohm cathode resistor, bypassed with a 100uf/100V cap, and showing about 5V across that resistor which I believe calculates to about a 32ma current draw on the tube...which is a 'new' JJ 6BQ5. I say I'm at about 98% because I have one remaining issue, which is that the amp will 'motorboat' from about 3/4 volume level on up. If kept below this level, it sounds and plays fine. But, hit about 2/3 to 3/4 on the VC and it breaks into this oscillation........audible even with the guitar vc turned all the way down. So, just looking for some suggestions as to what to do about this? Any help would be appreciated. Many thanks!! Tom D.  

Motorboating is a low frequency oscillation, often due to feedback though the power supply. Coupling caps shouldn't be too big, power supply filters may have to be larger if your supply has more droop than Fender's original. The original 5E2 circuit used 22K and 8 uF for the filter to the two 12AX7 stages - you may have reduced that resistor - if so (or even if not!), increase that filter cap and see if it helps. Also try a bigger filter cap after the choke.  

Ultrasonic oscillation due to poor circuit layout can sometimes present as motorboating, if it pulses because of grid blocking. It's especially important to keep output stage anode wiring well away from the signal path in low-level stages. A scope would tell the story.  

My PS filters are: 1 & 2, 47uf @ 350V, 3, 22uf @ 350. That should be more than ample to support the 'upgrades' from Fender's 8uf. Coupling caps: Actually this amp was built using the tone circuit from a 5E2 Princeton. That amp uses a 250K pot for it's tone control, with a .0005 on one side of it.....going to the plate of the 12AX7, and the other end to the input side of the tone pot. The other side of the tone pot goes to a .005 which goes to ground. There's still a .02 from the first plate connected 100K ohm resistor...then to the input side of a 1 meg VC pot, where the other side of the VC pot simply goes to ground. I should mention that the wiper of the tone control goes to the junction of the 100K resistor at the input side of the VC pot. MIke, I'm going to go back and look at layout issues...... but I'm thinking I should be OK. Hard to tell.......and I wish I had the 'scope' skills to figure it out that way. I'm wondering if the fact that this problem doesn't resent itself unit you get to 2/3 to 3/4 of the drive level on the VC doesn't mean something? If I were to cut the voltage by increasing the resistor......do you think that might change anything? TSD  

Fish fingers and custard!

Does it motorboat with no input connected if you turn up the volume? If so check all ground connections and look for ground loops caused by multiple connections  

Dr. a, yea, it does do it with nothing plugged in. I also have a 'grounding' input jack......so, the input grid on the first section of the 12AX7 is 'grounded' . I guess that means that the problem lies somewhere within the tone control part of the circuit, the Volume control, and the second stage 12AX7, yes? I didn't see any obvious 'grounding' issues, but I don't have any kind of 'star' ground with this......it's more of a 'chassis' ground much like the way the AES kit is designed and built.  

The 6BQ5 screen shouldn't be connected to the same power supply node as the 12AX7s - it draws more current than they do, so variation in screen current makes the supply voltage change, which makes the plate voltage on the first stage change, which gets amplified by the following two stages.. and the screen current changes some more. So, move the 6BQ5 screen to the FIRST B+ point like Fender did, and increase your cathode resistor to get back to the previous bias point.  

If you can post a high resolution schematic, such that we can zoom in on it and it doesn't look too small to read, that would be helpful.  

Doc, posting a picture of the AES MOD schematic. That was what I used as the basis for both the power supply and output section. The tone section came from the 5f2 Princeton schematic. I used a 10K on the input (along with the 1 meg), and the both 1.5K 12AX cathodes are bypassed with 25uf/25v caps. Tom, my PS is a CT type PT with the CT to a chassis ground, and both HV outputs to a 1N4007 diode. The output of the diodes goes to a 47uf cap and the Hammond choke. The output of the choke is the B+.....along with another 47uf cap. The OT is connected here as well. From there I go to a 18K / 1W resistor, which feeds the screen, a 22uf cap, and a 1K resistor. This 1K feeds the 12AX7. What I'm now thinking is that I should have yet another filter cap in this section.......as at this point, I don't. I'll try putting something there and see what happens. Would be great if that's all it took!!  

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• mod102_schematic.pdf 193.7 KB · Views: 34

larryderouin

I'm vertical and breathing...most of the time..

• Mar 26, 2018

Tubeglowpio

Active member.

Are you saying you did not have a power supply cap for the 12ax7 preamp section? And do you have that 100k resistor there as well on the 5f2 schematic?  

Yes, I came off the 22uf to the screen......and also a 1K that fed the two 100Ks that went to each 12AX plate. Tomorrow I'm going to see if I've got another 22 or a 20uf @ 350 or 300V and put that at the 1K and see what happens! Hopefully that'll fix it!! If not....back to the drawing board.....and the forum!! TSD Larry.... you know I've got one of each around here, plus a little Yamaha on the little John boat! TSD  

junk junkie

Inclined to agree about splitting the screen and the driver stage power supply up. Honestly I'd run the output transformer from HV, the screens from B1 and the driver from B2 but thats me. Adjust the 200 ohm cathode resistor if needed to get the bias right, and/or increase the size of the 100 ohm resistor if you really need less screen voltage. As it is, the screen supply will sag horribly through a 22K resistor. I guess that might be on purpose, I can't get my head around guitar amps though. Stuff that is sometimes done on purpose there would be something you'd just cringe at in a hifi amp.  

Thain, that's rather the idea behind me doing this. In having built about 20 of Mr. Gillespie's Magnavox 8600 amp, I think I understand that unit fairly well now. Not completely, but I think I've got the basic idea. I also built that MOD102+ kit from AES. Pretty simple, and it worked perfectly well. I ended up finding 3 power transformers, 2 of which were the 269EX and one that was about as close to the 269EX as I think you could get. I also had some SE 5K output transformers, so I decided to attempt to build another of the amps similar to the 102+ kit. If I haven't mentioned it already, the '+' version of the 102 Kit is rated at a slightly higher output wattage (8 vs 5), and comes with a few extra bells and whistles like having a 'pull' switch on each of the 3 controls; 1 for 'bright' on the treble control, pull for 'mid boost' on the bass control, and the VC pull switch adds some further gain to the amp.....or so it's supposed to do. The '+' also comes with a 3-way off/standby-on/run power switch vs just off/on. Anyway, I wanted to build just a simple SE EL84 version of something like the tween Princeton of Champ.......so using those diagrams as well as both the MOD102 and the '+' diagram, I set out to build the thing based on using the 3rd of my PTs as well as one of my existing OTs. The idea was to keep it as simple as possible, but have a 'tone' control vs no tone or Bass/Treble. So, I had to figure out how to run all these different aspects together into one amp....using my parts, and actually making it work. And, aside from the motor-boating problem, I'm 'almost' there! So, to address this motor-boating, the suggestion is to move my screen supply to the same place as the B+. Just another question before I do this, and I think Tom Bavis addressed it with his post above. But, in doing as suggested, the Plate and the Screen on the OT are going to be at 'about' the same voltage.....and in so doing, I'm going to experience a pretty significant increase in current draw from the tube. In looking at that MOD schematic (in my post #9), they're running both the 6BQ5 screen AND the 12AX7 from the same B+2 position and that amp doesn't have that problem. I also wonder if the difference in voltage between 6BQ5 Plate and Screen....if that's not part of what is producing some of the characteristic sound of the amp? I know that in many Hi-Fi amps the screen and plate are at about the same voltage level. I've seen some schematics where the plate is actually running at a lower voltage.....but I believe most of these diagrams are where a UL OT is used. But, in this MOD design, the difference is pretty great.....like 75+volts! In moving the plate and screen voltages to being nearly equal, will I loose some of the performance aspects of the amp that are actually rather appealing as a guitarist? Also, I think this is going to play hell with the Bias......and I'll be looking at using something like that 470 ohm resistor that Fender used on that Princeton as pictured above in post 9???  

OK, after reading Tom Bavis's post above, I got to thinking about how I'd addressed my builds on Dave Gillespie's Maggie revisions.......and in that build, like the MOD102, both have only 3 stages to the PS. However, when I construct Dave's amp, I add a 4th stage because I add a dropping resistor after my 5AR4 rectifier. In this revised MOD build, I added a choke. So..... in effect I also had 4 stages, but had only put a PS cap in 3 of them. My 1 - 3 stages had 'capacity', but my 4th stage, after my 1K resistor and in feeding the plates on the 12AX...I had no cap. So.....I added one! I dug through my supply of filter caps, found a 20uf @ 350, and installed it at that 1K resistor. Problem fixed!!! Motor-boating is gone, and the amp plays great from just barely opening the VC all the way to full throttle! The ONLY symptom that it exhibits that I find a bit odd is that at about 3/4 volume there is a dip in the noise level. As you go from all the way 'down' to gradually turning 'up' the VC, you begin to hear some amplification coming from the speaker. Even with nothing plugged into the amp...which 'grounds' the input jack...there is still some audible noise as you turn it up. But, at about 3/4 to 7/8 of the way up...there's like a 'spot' where the noise level drops off. Yet, when I 'play' the amp......the sound increases throughout the sweep of the VC. So, no 'dead spot' in amplification......just in that background noise. I'm going to live with it for now! The amp sounds great and performs well, and should be easy to 'repeat'. My next step will be to attempt to draw up a diagram of the final product, post it, as well as do a little photo shoot of the thing and post that as well. To all above, MANY THANKS for the guidance and suggestions. I'm sure the other changes suggested might have worked equally well......but this 'final fix' seemed easiest to try, and having it solve the problem, I'm just glad I don't have to go through and mess around with trying to get the bias right again. Happy Soldering!! Tom D.  

I don't know that I'd move the screens to the same place as the B+, I'd move both the screen and the plate "over one". Output transformer straight off the rectifier, screens after the 100 ohm, driver after the 22K. If the screen sag is integral to the sound of the amp, leave the screens where they are and add another branch off the supply with a 22K resistor to a cap. Feed the driver off that. I wouldn't tie the driver downstream of the screen just because they will still have some level of interaction that might cause you trouble. basically the idea is to not have the screens and the driver connected together so they can't interact with each other.  

Thain, I get what you're saying, and I understand the idea. I may give a shot at trying your suggestion....just to see if it makes the amp sound any different/better. BUT...that said.....as it's working now, it's really pretty impressive for a little 'flea' guitar amp. I've heard a lot of these over the years, including OE Fender units......and a good number of them didn't sound nearly as good. This one is still a bit 'gainy'......in that it's into 'break-up' after about 1/4 to 1/3 on the VC. But......from a 'player' perspective, that's not necessary a bad thing. It becomes a matter of 'how' it breaks up.....if it's 'controllable'.....and not so compressed or 'faltering' that it just sounds bad. So, I'm really not all that disappointed with that aspect of it. The little 'noise' glitch rather confounds me.....but not to any level that I believe it's in need of further attention. Rather, I'm just going to consider it as a personality trait. But, if changing the PS leads around as you suggest can correct that....then perhaps it's worth a try. I just know that this change will 'initially' play hell with the bias......and that's another balancing act that takes time too. Anyway.......all good comments and thoughts......so, many thanks! Tom  

Wharfcreek said: Thain, I get what you're saying, and I understand the idea. I may give a shot at trying your suggestion....just to see if it makes the amp sound any different/better. BUT...that said.....as it's working now, it's really pretty impressive for a little 'flea' guitar amp. I've heard a lot of these over the years, including OE Fender units......and a good number of them didn't sound nearly as good. This one is still a bit 'gainy'......in that it's into 'break-up' after about 1/4 to 1/3 on the VC. But......from a 'player' perspective, that's not necessary a bad thing. It becomes a matter of 'how' it breaks up.....if it's 'controllable'.....and not so compressed or 'faltering' that it just sounds bad. So, I'm really not all that disappointed with that aspect of it. The little 'noise' glitch rather confounds me.....but not to any level that I believe it's in need of further attention. Rather, I'm just going to consider it as a personality trait. But, if changing the PS leads around as you suggest can correct that....then perhaps it's worth a try. I just know that this change will 'initially' play hell with the bias......and that's another balancing act that takes time too. Anyway.......all good comments and thoughts......so, many thanks! Tom Click to expand...

I'd say the noise is VERY 'typical' of guitar amps! As my amp is built, I have a 10K resistor off the input jack and going directly to the input grid on the first stage of the 12AX7. The MOD amp uses just a straight wire, and the original Fender uses a 68K. I chose the 10K only to temper the input just a bit, without really bedding it down. I tried to build it such that all the passive parts made connections without needing any further leads or wires. But, where the VC connects to the input grid of the second stage of the 12AX, I DO have a shielded wire there! With the exception of the plate lead to the second stage, I don't think I have any 'wires' cut to make any connections. Even my input grid connection to the 6BQ5 is made directly with the resistor vs any leads. I just built one of the MojoTone Tweed 'Deluxe' kits......and this amp that I just build is, I believe, much quieter. 'Noise' isn't really a problem. You mention taking a class.......is this one of Gerry Weber's 'Amp Camp' deals? I know he does those pretty regularly! I have had many good conversations with him over the years. About 20 years ago (or so) I was DEEP into guitar amps! I not only owned a good number of them, but I had people in the area bringing them to me for 'repair'. I think over the course of about 6 to 8 years or so, I must have gone through well over 200 guitars amps for one reason or another. In 'collecting' them myself, I couldn't afford to have them professionally 'tuned up'.....or have hums fixed, or anything else for that matter! I was buying these things at junk stores, pawn shops, music stores, etc, all over the east coast as I traveled from town to town, state to state. Any 'deal' I could find on a guitar or amp.....I bought it! Single life and 'divorce recovery' will do that to you. I also got myself into a band......so I justified all this by 'playing' as well. Of course, I'm absolutely NO GOOD!!......lol. But....I had fun. Anyway, the need to fix all these things necessitated me learning how to do that myself....as I couldn't afford the professional costs of service. Luckily for me, I had a good Mentor in the form of Jeff Bober, formerly of Budda Amplification and now of 'East' amplifiers! Budda got sold to Hartley Peavey....but it was quite successful for a good long run. I think Hartley killed it! Anyway, to finish the story...... the band broke up....and I wanted to move......so I sold about 90% of all that I had, closed up the basement shop, and move from Annapolis to Baltimore. Along the way I discovered an old Dynaco ST-70. That was 20 years ago now.....and it's been 'home audio' ever since. But, this sticking my toe back into Guitar amps is kind of fun. I believe I was still very much in the early learning stages back then. While I could 'set a bias' or change coupling caps, or even make a broken amp work again.....I had no real understanding of what I was doing. That has come to some level over the past 20 years with the home audio stuff. But, even now, I struggle, as indicated here in this thread. Not putting a 4th cap into the PS filter section is rather a 'rookie' mistake IMHO! I hope you have fun with building the amp you're going to build. I think the Princeton schematic above is a pretty good choice if you want at least one tone control. I think some of the Champ amps had just a VC....which in retrospect is perhaps how I'd do it next time! The guitar already has a tone control....so why add one to the amp? (rhetorical question....not a conversation starter!!....lol) OK.....gotta run! TSD  

Very cool! I would enjoy one of webers classes, I will be using one of his alnico speakers in my amp but no to it being his class. My circuit analysis teacher is really into building guitars so he has a guitar building class at the college that I don't need but just want to take for fun. I'm always showing him the stereos I'm working on and he is always working on his guitars, really cool electronics teacher. Thanks to getting into audio circuits about 5 years ago and audiokarma and youtube the electronic courses are a breeze.  

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Motorboat engine sound

• This post was last updated September 3. 2023
• Originally posted August 2. 2023
• Category: Engine sounds
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The relaxing sound of a motorboat engine running for 10 hours, with a black screen after the little intro video to set the mood fades away. If you are looking for a new sleep sound for your collection, maybe this calming engine sound will do the trick. Or you can just listen to it if you miss the sound of a running engine

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More sounds for sleeping

Here are some suggestions for other noises to check out if this one wasn’t what you were looking for. See also the homepage for the latest sleep sounds posted

Edge trimmer in action

Hot air gun sound

Noisy sound of a drone hovering

Diesel truck engine sound

Sound of a food processor

Washing machine sound for sleep

Free sleep sounds album.

This free album from our SoundCloud account contains 15 tracks of various sleep sounds for your bedroom, including the popular white, pink, and brown noises

Old film projector sounds

Step back in time with the soothing ambiance of an old film projector! Immerse yourself in the nostalgic charm of classic cinema with this 10-hour video featuring the continuous, gentle whirring and clicking of a vintage projector. Relaxing sounds to fall asleep to at night

Sound of a busy office

Relaxing office ambience sounds for those of you who enjoy listening to these kinds of sounds when going to bed at night, or to keep on in the background when doing some work or studying. This track has people chattering, phones ringing, and a printer printing

Jet engine sounds for sleep

The relaxing sound of the jet engine of a passenger plane flying for 10 hours, with a black screen after 15 seconds. Included some footage of a random plane just to set the mood in the beginning. Calm down and pretend you are on a flight to somewhere nice and warm

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Engineering Notes

Engineering Notes by Oriental Motor

Troubleshooting basics: motor noises.

[fa icon="calendar"] Nov 16, 2022 2:30:34 PM / by Johann Tang

Motors exhibit noise.  The important thing to know is how you distinguish normal noise from abnormal noise, and how to troubleshoot.

Similar to a baby, a motor doesn't tell you when it's having problems or what you need to do, but the sound that a motor makes can tell you a lot.

If a motor produces abnormal noise, the possible causes can be:

• Excessive vibration

Motor Damage

Gearhead Damage

This article provides more information on these types of noises and what can be done to minimize the noise.  It's important to remember to isolate the motor from any other noise-making source, such as metal plates or loose bolts.  It's also very useful to have an extra motor in good working condition for noise comparison, so you have a reference point.

For more information, please read on. 

 Noise can be exhibited by geared motors as the surface of gears inside the gearhead continuously collides with each other during rotation.  There's a chance for gear collision because of backlash, which is any space between the gear teeth.  This sounds like a consistent "hum", and the noise can differ from different types of gears.  This noise doesn't mean there's a malfunction and does not affect the motor characteristics or the life of the gearhead.

We show a spur gear example here with backlash.

There are cases where this backlash noise is amplified, such as when the load is removed from the motor, or when a motor is oversized.  For an AC motor, as the load becomes lighter than its rated load, it's no longer operating at its optimal efficiency point, therefore more vibration is exhibited, which becomes noise.  Also, w hen the motor reverses direction, the backlash could make a different type of impact noise between gears.   Brushless motors and stepper motors do not have this problem since the power is regulated by the driver.

How to verify?

Typically, this noise is louder from an unloaded or oversized motor.  If the motor is unloaded, lightly apply a frictional load to the gearhead output shaft.  If the noise is suppressed by applying a friction load, then this noise is normal.  If increasing the load on the motor does not have an effect or increases the noise, or if the noise is not consistent, then the noise is caused by something else.  

To lower the impact sound in bi-directional applications, helical gears or higher quality gears with more contact surface area are recommended.  For the best performance, a motor sizing consultation should include the selection of the motor as well as the type of gears.

For geared motors, since gears are always meshing with other gears, any damage or scratch on the surface of teeth inside the gearhead can cause another type of abnormal noise during rotation.  If you notice an increased level of noise after assembling or disassembling the motor and gearhead, it could mean that the gear teeth were damaged or scratched.

To keep the geared motor design compact, Oriental Motor does not use a coupling between the motor shaft and gearhead.   Instead, we machine the motor shaft into a pinion shaft, then use that shaft to mate with the internal gears in the gearhead directly as shown below (motor shaft is on the right side).

Since we mate the motor's pinion shaft with the gears directly, any scratch or damage on the surface of the pinion shaft will cause additional noise to be exhibited.  The good news is that the motor's characteristics are not affected; although there's no easy way to correct this issue.

If the noise level is much higher when the motor and gearhead are assembled versus just the motor, this means you may have some damage or scratches on the surface of your gear teeth.  Unfortunately, there's no way to correct this besides replacing the gearhead.

If a periodic sound is heard periodically at specific intervals, then it's possible to estimate which gear tooth and which side of the tooth is damaged.  Oriental Motor can provide a product inspection to confirm teeth damage, but there's not much else we can do.

Excessive Vibration

Vibration is a component of noise.  One thing that can increase vibration from a motor is incorrect connection or power supply voltage.  Higher voltage increases torque but excessive torque can increase noise.  Higher or lower voltage also alters a motor's speed torque curve and operating temperature.  Vibration can also be amplified through other means, such as loose bolts and/or metal plates.  When troubleshooting noise, it's important to isolate all other vibrations.

Verify the wiring between the power supply, the capacitor, and the motor, and check if the input voltage is within +/-10% of the motor's specifications.  Also, check if the right capacitor is connected between the power supply and the motor.  The voltage and capacitance of the dedicated capacitor are essential components in determining the speed torque curve, rated torque, and the magnetic balance of the motor.  If the wrong voltage or capacitance is used, it can mess with the efficiency of the motor and increase its vibration.

Here we show how a voltage tester can be used.

A voltage approximately 1.4 to 1.7 times higher than the power supply voltage is applied between the capacitor pins.  The rated voltage of the capacitor is different from the rated voltage of the motor.  For example, when the motor's rated voltage is 100 VAC, the rated voltage of the capacitor can be 250 VAC or more.

The capacitance specification is listed on the motor label and capacitor (as well as on our website, catalogs, and brochures).  In the example below, we show a single-phase 100 VAC induction motor with an 8 microfarad capacitor.  The same motor also operates at 115 VAC with a 6.5 microfarad capacitor.  The rated voltage of the capacitor is 250 VAC.

If the motor shaft makes a noise while the gearhead is removed, then there's something wrong with the motor.  For example, the motor bearing may be damaged by excessive load.  Sometimes, motor damage can occur from mishandling, such as dropping the motor.

Disconnect the motor from power and load.  Visually check the pinion shaft surface for damage, and check if there's any noise when the motor shaft is rotated forward or reverse by hand.  If you cannot even rotate the motor shaft a whole revolution, then it means the bearings could be damaged.  For motors with an electromagnetic brake, please make sure the electromagnetic brake is released before testing.  Some pre-assembled motors, such as stepper motors, cannot be taken apart.  Please replace these motors.  

If the gearhead is making noise without the motor, it's likely that the gearhead is damaged.  This could be the gearhead case, bearings, or gears.  This is actually very difficult to troubleshoot without a reference point of normal noise and accurate noise measurement.  

Similar to the last motor bearing test, remove the gearhead from the motor and then visually inspect the gears.  When the gearhead is removed from the motor, some of the internal gears are visible.  You can try to rotate the gearhead shaft in order to inspect more gears.  If you shake the gearhead, nothing should sound "loose".  Also, try to rotate the gearhead shaft forward and backward by hand.  This could be difficult to do depending on size and gear ratio.  

That's it for now, folks.  Of course, the easiest way to fix these problems is to replace the motor and/or gearhead.  A better way is to prevent these issues by performing a motor sizing analysis .  This article provides a deeper understanding of motor noise for anyone who wishes to learn more (and hopefully prevent the same issue from happening again).

You're welcome to call, e-mail, or chat with our technical support engineers for more information.

Disclaimer : This article provides troubleshooting tips, but only qualified professionals should perform the work.  If you're not qualified, please contact our technical support team.  Oriental Motor is not liable for any injuries that can potentially happen from performing the work.

Topics: AC Motors , Stepper Motors , Speed Control , BLDC Motors , Gearheads , Troubleshooting

Written by Johann Tang

Johann Tang is a Product Specialist at Oriental Motor USA Corp. with 20+ years of experience in sales, technical application support, and training of various types of fractional horsepower electric motors, gearheads, actuators, drivers, and controllers. Feel free to ask him questions on Linkedin.

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Oriental Motor offers an extensive product line-up of about 50,000 different products that provide the optimal motion system. For over a century we have concentrated on technological advancement and product design improvement. This emphasis is evident in the sophisticated devices that we market today. Oriental Motor's sales and service network is international, with offices throughout North America, Europe and Asia.

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HOW TO TEACH BABY MOTOR BOATING

Motor boating, also known as blowing raspberries, is a very playful and developmental activity for babies .  The funny sound intrigues their curiosity and they are inclined to try and imitate you.  Motor boating gives a strong sensation to their lips, enhancing  awareness and facilitating speech development.  For speech development , babies benefit from activities which increase their ability to move their lips and tongue.  You can help baby learn to create this sound by repeating it a few times with your face close enough to baby’s so she can clearly see how you are moving your lips to make the sound.  Do not be surprised if she wants to reach out and touch your lips as you make that sound.  Let her feel what you are doing.  You can also make the sound on the back of her hand to give her yet another sensation of the sound and movement.

Watch the baby in the above video from Jen McBrayer’s youtube channel.  She makes a very clear motor boating sound and confidently can repeat it over and over again  This shows that she has developed the skill very well.  In our Stellar Caterpillar classes we guide babies through motor skill development so they develop their skills in such a way that they can repeat them confidently and whenever they desire.  This is different from a skill that happens occasionally or is just half-way developed.  As your baby begins to make the motor boating sound, repeat it back to her.  This is called mirroring.  As you mirror what she does it helps her to be clearer herself about what she is doing.  Babies learn this skill at various ages.  Some babies learn to motor boat quite young and others learn it a bit older.  What is common is that they really enjoy it once they learn it!

The mother in the above video is also demonstrating a method of feeding baby so she does not throw food on the floor.  She puts just enough in front of her for one bite.  After she eats that bite her mother puts another bite in front of her.  They continue this pattern of eating until baby is finished eating.  Baby continues entertaining herself by motor boating in between bites.

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Motor Sounds

Here are the sounds that have been tagged with Motor free from SoundBible.com Please bookmark us Ctrl+D and come back soon for updates!

All files are available in both Wav and MP3 formats.

Personal Use Only

Car skidding.

car skid or skidding sound

Motorcycle Engine

Motorcycle Idling revving and driving off sound

Public Domain

Car driving.

Perfect car driving sound effect. Nice car ambiance from inside the cabin of a mid size car.

Attribution 3.0

Harley davidson.

A Harley Davidson motorcycle idling and revving its engine. It then speeds away.

Tires Squealing

Sound of a truck or large cars tires squealing loud and clear. Sound recorded in stereo. Great city, car, or similar sound effect.

Car, van, or truck horn honking sound effect.

Robot Arm Moving

Small fast robot movements. Robot arm and leg movement sound effects.

Robot Leg Moving

Robot arm and leg movement sound effects. Small fast robot movements. Robot walking or grabbing something.

Small Electrical Motor

Small electrical motor or robot arm sound effect. this is a very small elect5ical motor sound. Good for a robot finger or head rotation sound.

Dying Robot

Sound of a robot dying, or shorting out.

Car Door Close Outside

The sound of a car, van, or truck door closing from outside of the vehicle.

Motorcycle Pass By

A Motorcycle Pass By sound effect from SoundBible.com

Mortar Round

Sound of a large motor round being fired at enemy combatants. Great military sound. Sound effect requested by Nicholas.

Small Servo Motor

Servo motor or robot arm sound effect. this is a very small elect5ical motor sound. Good for a robot finger or head rotation sound.

Fast Bike Or Motorcycle

Great fast bike or motorcycle sound effect. This was one of those kawasaki motorcycles not a Hog or Goldwing.

Public Transit Bus

Nice public transit bus walla track. The people are speaking but you cant make out the words. Great for city background or transportation sound effects.

car door sound

Motorbike sound effect. Bike or motorbike driving by on the road.

Car Spinning Out

1 more great Car Spinning Out of control sound effect. Recorded this in an abandoned parking lot late at night.

Engine Rev Inside Car

Engine Rev Inside Car. Nice engine revving motor sound effect.

Door Unlock

Sound of electric locks being unlocked. Nice electric click sound for an auto or similar.

Sci Fi Robot

sci fi robot or science fiction robot moving. Great for a robot walking or moving his arm or even rotating appendages.

Car Drive By

car drive by sound from curb

Large Servo Motor

Servo motor or robot arm sound effect. this is a very large elect5ical motor sound.

Attr-Noncommercial 3.0

Military style humvee driving or reving motor and wheels grabbing gravel.

Sampling Plus 1.0

I am a robot.

Robot voice sound. Robot saying I am a robot. Pretty cool

Mechanical Arm

Request for mechanical arm sound effects was made by DARRELL. Here is one of the sounds.

Motor Bike Fart

Just like the title says this fart sounds like a motor bike. This guy is just putting along. You can almost taste this one. Hehehe

Car Loosing Control

A car spining out of control or loosing control sound. Great for an auto scene or car game.

Motorcycle Roaring

Great Motorcycle Roaring sound effect for city traffic or whatever.