yacht master vs submariner vs sea dweller

Rolex Sea Dweller VS Rolex Submariner: Which diver watch is better?

Use this comprehensive comparison to find out which one of these two Rolex diver watches is best for you.

Rolex Sea-Dweller VS Rolex Submariner

What is the difference between rolex sea-dweller and submariner, common features.

• Both of these Rolex watches use the 31-jewel, Rolex Calibre 3135 movement that shows the hour, minutes, seconds, and has a window showing the day of the month.
• Both the Submariner Date and the Sea-Dweller 4000 have an approx. 50-hour power reserve. The Sea-Dweller 43mm has a 70-hour power reserve.
• Black "Cerachrom" bezel insert which is made of a hardened ceramic that is very durable and resistant to scratches. In addition, Cerachrom has great anti-corrosion properties and won't color fade when exposed to UV rays for long periods of time.
• Polished stainless steel-rimmed bezel with a ribbed edge for a sure grip. 
• Patented "Triplock" crown locks the crown down the Oyster case making it as tight as a submarine hatch. This is a feature exclusively found on a Rolex watch.
• Bracelet fitted with the patented Glidelock Extension System buckle - a secure deploying style with adjustments in 2mm increments to a total of 20mm without the need for tools.

What is better Sea-Dweller or Submariner?

Rolex sea-dweller 4000.

Is a Rolex Sea-Dweller a good investment? The most impressive feature of the Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 and the newer 43mm Sea-Dweller deep dive watch  is the difference in Water Resistance  when compared to the Rolex Submariner the Sea-Dweller is far more water-resistant. Aside from better diving depth, it would have been nice for the SD to have a helium escape valve but the watch looks far better without one. While serious deep diving calls for a minimum of 1650 feet and up of water resistance, the Rolex SD 4000 boasts a whopping four thousand feet of resistance. Now that's deep ! See the pros & cons.

A few people have contacted us and asked us: " Is Rolex Sea-Dweller discontinued? " The answer is that to this day, no. However, the older model of the Rolex watch loved by divers known as the Sea-Dweller 4000 has since been replaced with the newer and larger Sea-Dweller 43mm.

Rolex Submariner Date

The one aesthetic difference that stands out the most is the Cyclops magnifier over the date of the Submariner while the Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 is lacking one. However, the newer Rolex Sea-Dweller 43mm does  have a cyclops magnifier over the date window. For some people, this may be a deal-breaker since the date magnifier is one of the most widely used and distinct features found on most Rolex watches. There is also the functional value of the magnifier. Luckily, Rolex has added the Cyclops lens to the new Sea-Dweller 43mm.

At Baselworld 2017, Rolex introduced a new 50th Anniversary edition, a new and larger 43mm Single Red Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Reference # 126600 which now includes a Cyclops magnifier just like the Sub and has the name Sea-Dweller in red on the dial. This new version uses the Rolex Calibre 3235 movement which has an impressive power reserve of up to 70 hours. It also has the highly legible Chromalit display, a practical feature for an adventure to the abysmal subaquatic depths commonly explored by diving professionals.

Another plus side of the submariner series is that there are many more models in several materials such as steel, white gold, yellow gold, and two-tone. They also have more color combinations compared to the SD 4000 and SD 43mm which is only available at the time of writing this in stainless steel with a black dial and black Cherachrom bezel insert as well as a two-tone steel and yellow gold option. See Pros and Cons:

What is a Rolex Sea-Dweller worth?

Here is a side-by-side comparison of the rolex sea-dweller 43mm vs. rolex submariner 41mm specifications & features..

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• Comparisons

Watch Ideas

Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner: Which High-End Watch is Right for You?

Today, we’re going head-to-head with two of the most popular watches that Rolex has to offer: it’s the Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner. The Yacht-Master is one of the most polarizing models for the Rolex community, while the Submariner is an iconic timepiece and a historical dive watch. If you have the dilemma of choosing between these two Rolexes, then let me say that it’s a good problem to have. In reality, you can’t go wrong by choosing one over the other.

However, I know that both watches are hefty investments and you want yours to count. One is a regatta countdown flyback chronograph, and the other is the quintessential dive watch. Personally, I prefer the Rolex Submariner for its classic reliability, design, and durability. But that’s just me. Let’s take a closer look at what each model can offer.

Construction and Wearability

Timekeeping, related posts, rolex yacht-master review.

The first Rolex Yacht-Master was released as a part of the company’s Professional series with the reference 16628. The watch was released in 1992 and is touted as the sleeker upgrade to the iconic dive watch, the Submariner. However, according to the rumor mill, many Submariner devotees see that the design overhaul is too much and is ready to pounce into the Yacht-Master. Eventually, Rolex decided that the Yacht-Master will be released as an entirely new model instead.

For this review, we’ll be focusing on the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Reference 116622 but many of the features, design, and construction elements are still applicable to the Yacht-Master versions. Try not to confuse this watch with the Rolex Yacht-Master II which is sequel to the original.

The Yacht-Master Ref. 116622 can only be described as cool, calm and collected. The hint of almost-iridescent blue will likely catch the eye of many Rolex enthusiasts. As far as overall aesthetics go, this Rolex is an absolute stunner. This steel and platinum Yacht-Master comes with a dark rhodium dial and soft blue highlights. Right off the bat, you can see that there’s a subtle affair going on when compared to its more embellished siblings (see Oysterflex and Rolesor versions). The restrained look can be partly attributed to the dark dial.

The watch features a  platinum (Pt950) bi-directional bezel which may seem weird at first but the way it’s configured does make sense. The bi-directional design is utilized for yachting purposes like calculating the sailing time between two buoys. The sand-blasted finish and raised numerals look beautiful and are less direct compared to let’s say, a ceramic. Don’t get me wrong, this Yacht-Master doesn’t look pain at all. The polished bezel and glimmering dial allow the watch to pop where it counts.

And then, there’s the blue highlight. It’s amazing how such a small detail on a line of text and second hand can add so much to the overall look of the watch. The addition of blue highlights to the Yacht-Master gives it so much energy, especially against the dark rhodium dial. This is yet another proof of Rolex’s mastery of attention to detail.

The Rolex Yacht-Master 116622 comes with a stainless steel case with a 40mm platinum bezel. There’s also a 37mm version for the ladies. The case and the bracelet are made from 904L stainless steel while the bezel is made from 950 platinum . This, of course, ensures the highest sense of luxury while keeping the watch tough as nails.

All Yacht-Master 40 features the Oyster Bracelet which provides the much-needed balance of aesthetics, comfort, and function. There’s also the standard Oysterlock folding clasp and the Easylink comfort extension, features that are proprietary to Rolex. All of these features ensure the best fit and comfort that you can expect from the Rolex brand.

Rolex Submariner Review

Now, let’s move on to an iconic dive watch. Many watch collectors consider the Rolex Submariner as a quintessential timepiece. Introduced in 1954, the Submariner is a cornerstone of Rolex’s stable. Let’s take a look at what this legendary watch can offer. For this review, we’ll be using the No-Date Reference 114060 .

The Submariner comes in a 40mm stainless steel case . It is worth noting that the 114060 comes in a slightly squared design, along with thicker lugs. This gives the Submariner a more eye-catching look, although there are still many who prefer the thinner lugs on the older versions. If you prefer a more robust and tougher appearance for your Submariner, this model should not disappoint.

The unidirectional bezel is fitted with ceramic bezel insert . This is quite a notable change since previous models have aluminum ones. However, you’ll be happy to know that the new ceramic bezel makes it more scratch-resistant. I also like the ceramic because it gives off a nice glow under certain lighting conditions. The bezel also has engravings which provide a nice texture and depth.

The Submariner comes in the instantly recognizable black dial. The indices are larger and are fitted with Chromalight (so it glows in the dark). The markers are outlined with an 18K white gold frame . Overall, the dial looks very crisp and legible which is never a bad thing if you use this bad boy for diving purposes. As far as looks go, this watch is about as classic as it gets.

The Submariner is water-resistant up to 300 meters (1,000 feet) . The middle case is made from 904L corrosive resistant steel which is also used in other industries like high technology and aerospace. The 904L steel is also highly polishable so it retains its beauty even after many years of usage. The winding crown is fitted with the proprietary TRIPLOCK triple waterproofness system. The crown is protected by the crown guard that brings the middle case altogether.

The watch is fitted with the familiar solid-link OYSTER bracelet which is also crafted from 904L steel. The clasp features the proprietary Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system . This enables you to adjust the watch in 2mm increments up to 20mm to achieve the best fit and comfort. Personally, the Submariner is just a timepiece that I could wear at all times without needing to take it off.

For the timekeeping features, the Submariner doesn’t offer much but more than makes up for reliable and accurate timekeeping. The Submariner is powered by 3135 caliber, a self-winding movement for the timekeeping features and allows -2/+2 sec/day accuracy . Like the Yacht-Master, the Submariner 114060 has the Superlative Chronometer certification (COSC + Rolex certification after casing). All of these components make for a robust and reliable timepiece.

Head to Head

So which one do I recommend, the Yacht-Master or Submariner? Well, if it’s up to me, I will get both because both of these watches do complement each other. But if you just have to choose one, you can’t go wrong with the Submariner . However, I do understand that it can be difficult to choose between the two Rolexes since they’re very similar.

If you’re going to compare both watches side-by-side, you’ll see that the Submariner’s movement gives a thicker caseback, compared to the Yacht-Master which is noticeably thinner. In terms of style, I feel that the Yacht-Master is the dressier of the two. While wearing, the Submariner feels heavier than the Yacht-Master.

When it comes to the bezel, I noticed that the Submariner feels more solid while the Yacht-Master doesn’t have many clicks in comparison. I don’t really like the 0 to 15-minute marker of the Yacht-Master bezel. The platinum bezel of Yacht-Master will likely collect scratches and dings over time. On the other hand, Submariner’s ceramic bezel is tougher and more resistant to scratches. Just avoid slamming your Submariner into a hard surface.

Another thing that I’m not crazy about the Yacht-Master is legibility. It could take about half a second for the eyes to distinguish the hands against the darker dial. It’s a good thing that the blue highlight stands out well against the rhodium background. The Submariner has better legibility between the two.

Lastly, you can’t really compare these two without mentioning the price. The Yacht-Master is more expensive than the Submariner by approximately several thousand dollars . So is it worth it to get the Yacht-Master with such a huge price difference? I think not but that’s only because both watches are very similar. However, this doesn’t mean that the Yacht-Master is not an excellent watch.

Final Thoughts – Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner

As mentioned, both the Submariner and Yacht-Master are excellent high-end timepieces . Honestly, you really can’t go wrong with choosing either one. However, in my opinion, it’s hard to justify the price difference when both watches are very similar. Although the Yacht-Master is the more luxurious of the two, the Submariner wins for being the tougher and more legible piece. If you’re looking to get your first Rolex and budget is an issue, I highly recommend the Rolex Submariner .

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Undecided by a Sea-Dweller or Submariner. Here is our guide to navigate the famous Rolex Divers

Undecided between Sea-Dweller or Submariner? Here is our guide

A good diver’s watch should be a staple in every connoisseur’s collection, and if you’re in search of a brand that has dedicated decades to mastering the art of an expert diving tool – Rolex would be it. The company has created several watches that pay homage to its links to sailing, yachting, diving and exploration – the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller being the main two. But what are the differences between these two Rolex diving watches? And how do they fair up to one another when they sit side-to-side in this comparison article? We’re going to look at the history of the Rolex Submariner and the Rolex Sea-Dweller, as well as each model’s spec to help you decide which diving watch is right for you.

Presenting Submariner vs Sea-Dweller:

The Rolex Submariner was released in 1953. It borrowed all the best features of the Oyster case – its special monobloc steel middle, a screw-down case back and a screw-down crown to name just a few. It was the first diver’s watch that offered a water resistance of 100 meters. Despite originally being developed for divers and underwater exploration, the Submariner’s emblematic design also doubles-up as a status symbol, hence its cult-like fan base.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller is classed as “the watch that conquered the deep”. It launched in 1967 promising a staggering 1,220-meter water resistance. Since then the Deepsea version of the Sea-Dweller has been released (2008) offering 3,900-meter water resistance, yet the original Sea-Dweller has remained a popular favorite thanks to its exceptional strength, pressure resistance, and water resistance.

Case and dial:

Currently, there are Rolex Submariner watches available in 18k yellow gold and steel variations (Rolesor), solid 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, and steel. The standard 40mm steel model is also available with a green dial and matching green Cerachrom bezel, whereas the blue dial versions can be found in white gold, 18k yellow gold Rolesor variations. The Submariner has received some modifications over the years. It is endowed with a 40mm unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert adorned with legible numerals. The crown is integrated with Rolex’s patented Triplock triple waterproofness system and 300-meter water resistance. There’s a date version which features a cyclops lens at 3 o’clock or a no-date version of the Rolex Submariner.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller is larger than the Submariner, bearing 43mm across the wrist. Available in just two variations, the Rolesor model featuring a combination of 18k yellow gold and steel, offers a slightly more luxurious look compared to the all-steel model. The black dial of the Sea-Dweller is kitted out with luminous hands and indexes like the Submariner, and a cyclops date window at 3 o’clock. It too features the same unidirectional rotating bezel and Triplock screwed-down crown as the Submariner but boasts better underwater capabilities with 1,220-meter water resistance and a helium escape valve.

Some Rolex Submariner watches are fitted with one of the brand’s oldest yet most reliable calibers - the self-winding caliber 3135, Others are equipped with the 3130. Both provide a 48-hour power reserve courtesy of a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The younger models have a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring built into the movement for greater efficiency.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller, unlike the Submariner, is equipped with the Caliber 3235 as its beating heart. It provides a longer power reserve of 70 hours compared to the Submariner and is also equipped with a Parachrom hairspring.

Bracelet and clasp:

The Rolex Submariner models secure around the wrist with a sturdy Oyster bracelet crafted from the brand’s most expensive 904L-grade stainless steel material. A Glidelock system fitted in conjunction with an Oysterlock safety clasp will allow you to fit the watch over the top of heavy diving gear by expanding the metal bracelet in 2mm increments.

The Sea-Dweller is also completed on the same 3-piece link Oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterlock safety clasp and Rolex’s Glidelock extension system.

Comparing both models, the starting price for a Rolex Submariner is lower than the Sea-Dweller. Submariner models like the 114060 start at just under $8000. The more expensive collectible wristwatches from this range are those like the ref: 116619LB, featuring a white gold case and blue dial and bezel, costing around $30,000. Sea-Dweller watches like the model ref: 16600 which were created between 1988 and 2008 start at around £11,000, whereas the 50th anniversary Sea-Dweller watches manufactured between 2017 and present start at a little under $15,000.

Still undecided?

Deciding between the Rolex Submariner and the Rolex Sea-Dweller all depends on what you want out of your watch. Do you want to wear your Rolex watch as a statement piece? If so, a less impressive water-resistant capability compared to the Sea-Dweller is a small compromise for a watch that will retain its value incredibly well in the long run. Even though the Submariner is more sought-after than the Sea-Dweller, both watches offer an impressive set of features. The Sea-Dweller has a longer power reserve and a helium escape valve as well as 4 times the water-resistance of the Submariner, so if you’re planning to get the most out of your watch on a diving level – the Sea-Dweller is certainly the best option for you.

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– The Rolex Submariner vs The Rolex Sea-Dweller

The rolex submariner vs the rolex sea-dweller.

• Christine Ye
• January 29, 2024

They are, arguably, the two best known and widely revered examples of the dive watch genre in existence. Both, in their own ways, introduced groundbreaking features and each has the trademark Rolex minimalism to their aesthetics which means they can easily double up as either the toughest of tool watches or an elegant everyday wear. Lets take a look at Rolex Submariner vs Rolex Sea-Dweller.

The Rolex Submariner and Rolex Sea-Dweller are undeniable horological legends, designed to withstand punishments and pressures far beyond the endurance of any underwater adventurer. But how do they compare with each other? What individual qualities does each model have to make choosing between them easier? Below, we set out everything you need to know when it comes time to make your decision. First, a little history…

The Rolex Submariner

The Submariner arrived more than a decade before the Sea-Dweller, debuting in 1953 and going on general sale the following year. Contrary to what some believe, it was not the very first dive watch ever made. That honor goes to, depending on your point of view, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (which hit the shelves mere months before the Rolex) or else dates back to the 1930s, with either the Omega Marine or Panerai’s Radiomir—a watch created for the Italian Special Forces diving unit which, coincidentally, used Rolex cases and movements. However, while it may not have been the first of its type, the Submariner was the first watch officially rated down to 100m.

It was the brainchild of the brand’s then-Public Relations Director, René-Paul Jeanneret, himself a fanatical recreational diver and good friend of underwater conservationist and pioneer, Jacques-Yves Cousteau. And it was with Cousteau’s involvement that Jeanneret was able to build on the concept of Rolex’s Oyster case, a revolutionary invention which had done so much to popularize the wristwatch as a male accessory. Once seen as fragile, feminine pieces of jewelry, the Oyster caused an about-turn in image when it was unveiled in 1926, with wristwatches suddenly being robust enough for even the manliest of men to wear.

However, the Submariner was going to need something still more substantial to deal with the forces a Scuba diver experienced. To that end, Rolex invented the Twinlock crown, an arrangement which used two O-ring gaskets on the crown’s winding stem inside the watch case, creating a pair of sealed zones to amp up the water resistance.

To finish off, the Sub borrowed the rotating bezel innovation from Rolex’s underappreciated Turn-O-Graph, engraving it with a 60-minute scale to allow divers to keep a simple and easily read track of their time submerged.

From the time of its debut, the Submariner was, and has always remained, a huge hit with the watch buying public. Its abilities, versatile wearability and timeless design have kept it at the very top of the dive watch food chain for nearly 70-years now.

Since the end of the ‘60s it has been available with or without a date function; the no-dates have always been cast exclusively in the toughest stainless steel, while the date versions have gone on to be delivered in yellow or white gold, Rolex’s own two-tone Rolesor, and even with the option of diamond-studded indexes. As such, it may now be viewed more as a status symbol than an indispensable piece of underwater safety equipment, but it doesn’t really matter. Its reputation is secure, and the Submariner is the first image to spring to mind when you hear the words ‘luxury dive watch’. The history of the Submariner goes back to 1953, however there are still many instances where the Submariner has grown in popularity, performance, and even designs.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller

By comparison, right up until its latest incarnation, the Sea-Dweller was the tougher, more serious dive companion, made for those who truly go beyond.

Much like as with Pan Am Airlines and the GMT-Master, the Sea-Dweller came about through a collaboration between Rolex and one of the world’s forerunners in their particular field—in this case, COMEX. The leading commercial and saturation diving outfit approached the watchmaker with a very specific problem in the mid ‘60s. Although the watches they were using at the time were capable of surviving the crushing pressures in which their crews were working, strangely, the complications were only becoming apparent on the ascent back to the surface.

Those divers whose jobs involved them living in deep underwater habitats for days or weeks at a time had to breathe a tightly controlled mix of gases, rich in helium. And it was the helium which, due to the minuteness of its molecules, was able to seep inside the team’s watch cases. While still at depth, that was not a concern. But when they were brought back to sea level, and the resulting reduction in pressure caused the helium to expand, it could blow the crystal off the face of the watch.

To work on a solution, Rolex teamed up with fellow Swiss brand Doxa and together they came up with the HEV, or Helium Escape Valve. Essentially a spring-loaded, one-way regulator set into the side of the case at the nine o’clock, it would open once the pressure inside the watch became greater than the ambient and allow the helium to bleed back out gradually before it could cause any harm.

The invention was trialed on a ref. 5513 Submariner and extensively field tested before finding its first permanent home on the debut Sea-Dweller, the ref. 1665, in 1967.

Along with the HEV, the watch now known in collector circles as the DRSD (Double Red Sea-Dweller, for its two lines of red dial text) also had a far thicker case and crystal to help absorb the immense forces at play, along with the next generation of winding crown system, known as the Triplock. Together, they gave the DRSD a fearsome water resistance of 2,000ft, putting it leagues ahead of just about anything else on the market at the time.

Still not satisfied, Rolex were able to double that to 4,000ft from 1978 and the arrival of the ref. 16660 (or the Triple Six) thanks to its larger HEV and a sapphire crystal. Yet, despite its popularity, the Sea-Dweller was briefly discontinued from 2008 to 2014 to make way for the insane Deepsea, a watch waterproof to 12,800ft—as near as makes no difference two-and-a-half miles down.

Happily though, the Sea-Dweller is now very much a staple of the catalog, and one which has undergone some major changes in the last few years. We’ll get onto those now, as we compare it to the venerable Submariner.

Rolex Submariner vs Rolex Sea-Dweller: Visuals

When the Sea-Dweller first arrived, there was no doubting its ancestry. The Submariner was already the blueprint for what a luxury dive watch should look like, so there was no sense messing with a winning formula. Therefore, Rolex simply beefed-up the parts which needed beefing up to cope with the environments for which the Sea-Dweller was commissioned.

That left both looking remarkably similar; each was a masterwork in robust restraint, with the sort of timeless styling that had worked its way into the general horology psyche and it has carried on right up to the present day.

Until 2017 the most immediately noticeable difference between the two was the lack of a magnifying lens over the date window on the Sea-Dweller.

The Cyclops has been a bone of contention with Rolex fans ever since it was introduced in 1953. It increases the apparent size of the numerals underneath by 2.5 times, which is obviously very handy. Yet purists dislike how it leaves the dial unbalanced and asymmetrical, and it was particularly contentious on the first date-equipped Submariner from the late ‘60s, the ref. 1680.

Because of the depths the Sea-Dweller was built for, Rolex were unable to ensure the lens would stay on under the massive pressures, and so the first several iterations were Cyclops-free.

That has now changed, and both the Sub and the Sea-Dweller are fitted with the magnifier—and it is still a prickly subject amongst traditionalists.

Other subtle differences you might pick up on; the Submariner’s bezel has minute hash marks engraved for just the first 15-minutes while on the SD they continue around the entire circumference. And the dial text on the current Sub is white across all variants, whereas on the Sea-Dweller, the name is picked out in gold on the Rolesor version and in red (as a nod towards the original DRSD) on the steel model.

Rolex Submariner vs Rolex Sea-Dweller: Sizes

The biggest shakeup in the life of the Sea-Dweller thus far came about with the latest generation, the ref. 126600 released in 2017.

Not only did it grow in size to an unprecedented 43mm, leaving it 3mm larger than the Submariner of the time, it also dispensed with some of its out-and-out tool watch aura and appeared in Rolex’s own two-tone Rolesor—the first time it had been seen in anything but stainless steel since its inception.

Both changes came as something of a surprise (and especially the Rolesor move) but the increase in dimensions was a welcome one from most quarters, with the prevailing consensus being that 40mm was too small for a serious modern sports watch.

Since then, the Submariner has caught up a little, now at 41mm with the current model. It has also taken a step back from its love-it-or-hate-it Super case and returned somewhat to its more vintage-inspired sweeping lines.

But the Sea-Dweller’s extra width, and especially its additional thickness (14.7mm to the Sub’s 12.3mm) leaves it feeling much more substantial on the wrist. It is something to consider if you want your watch to tuck beneath a shirtsleeve as well.

Metals & Options

Of the two, it is the Submariner which has far more in the way of choice—in material, color and function. There is still, as there has always been, a no-date, all stainless steel Submariner; the only metal in which the dateless Sub has ever been issued.

However, the Submariner Date is offered in steel, full white or yellow gold, as well as yellow Rolesor, Rolex’s own name for the meeting of gold (used for the bezel, crown and central bracelet links) and steel (on the case and outer links).

On top of that, you can take your pick from a variety of color schemes. The all-steel versions can be had with either a black dial and bezel (also the only option for the no-date Sub), or else with a green bezel and black dial.

With the yellow gold and Rolesor models, they come with all black or all blue dials and bezels, the blue dials differing nicely by being given a beautiful metallic sunburst effect which changes hue in various lighting conditions.

As for the white gold watch, that is only available with black dial and blue bezel.

With the Sea-Dweller, as mentioned already, there are now two models; in all-steel and in yellow Rolesor. Each has a black dial and bezel, as befits a sober tool watch.

All the materials Rolex uses are identical for both models. The steel is 904L across the board, with the brand being just about the only manufacturer in the industry to go to the expense of employing it. It was chosen for its superior corrosion resistance, perfect for a dive watch, but it has the added benefit of holding a unique shine when polished, meaning a steel Rolex looks unlike anything else on the market.

The gold is all 18k and forged, as is the steel, in Rolex’s own foundry at their Plans-les-Ouates base outside Geneva. It gives the company complete autonomy over the makeup and color of the precious metal, with their usual draconian focus on quality control.

The bezels are Cerachrom, another proprietary alloy, this time in ceramic. Touted as scratchproof, fade proof and just about unbreakable, it means each watch’s surround should stay looking brand new indefinitely. Even the numerals are coated in platinum to retain their luster over the years.

And finally, the dial indexes, with their trademark mix of dots and batons with the 12 o’clock inverted triangle, are coated in Rolex’s patented Chromalight and outlined in white gold to prevent tarnishing.

Same Movements

Something else shared by both the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller, at long last, is their movement.

The Cal. 3235 (and the Cal. 3230 in the no-date) is the replacement for the celebrated Cal. 3135 (Cal. 3130), considered one of the finest mass-produced calibers of the modern age and one in use since 1988.

The Sea-Dweller received the next generation mechanism with its current version in 2017, while the Sub had to wait until 2020 before it got its update.

However, the Cal. 3235 is much more than just a minor reworking of its predecessor. Rolex has replaced or improved on around 90% of its components, with the introduction of the revolutionary Chronergy escapement seen as the most significant.

By skeletonizing and geometrically offsetting the pallet fork and escape wheel, the brand has managed to improve the Chronergy’s efficiency by around 15% compared to traditional Swiss Lever escapements.

Alongside that, the Cal. 3235’s power reserve has increased to an impressive 70-hours over the previous 48, while running at the same 28,800vph frequency as the rest of the manufacture’s portfolio.

It also adheres to Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification, guaranteeing an accuracy of between -2/+2 seconds a day and comes with a class-leading five-year warranty.

Rolex Submariner

Rolex sea-dweller.

As you can see, it is the stainless steel models which have the largest variation between their retail price and their price on the preowned market. In the case of the Submariner, the green bezeled model actually sells for more than both Rolesor references, despite the value of the gold on the latter.

Partly this is down to how new the current Sub is, only having been released last year. The Sea-Dweller, launched four years ago, has had time to stabilize a little between new and preowned versions.

Rolex Submariner vs Rolex Sea-Dweller: Take Your Pick

So there we have our comparison between the Rolex Submariner and the Rolex Sea-Dweller. The big question is, which one should you pick?

Obviously, in the end, it will all come down to personal preference, but there are some things to take into account. The Sea-Dweller is larger and substantially heavier—194g versus the Sub’s 157g or so. Plus, the extra 2mm in width, although it doesn’t sound like a lot, could make all the difference depending on your wrist size. It is vital to try both on before making a decision, to see which is most compatible.

It is also important to take into account where you will be wearing the watch. The Submariner is the ultimate versatile everyday wear, never looking out of place whether its matched with a suit and tie or jeans and t-shirt. The Sea-Dweller’s extra bulk, as we said before, makes it trickier to slip under a close tailored sleeve.

That aside though, it is really a case of not being able to make the wrong decision. Each watch is an absolute classic, legendary in its field, both are powered by the same faultless, cutting-edge engine and they are more than capable of withstanding absolutely anything life throws at them—whether on dry land or hundreds of feet underwater.

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Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner Date: Which is Better?

Table of Contents

When we dive into the oceanic worlds of the Rolex Yacht-Master and Submariner Date, it’s fascinating how each series, while sharing maritime DNA, sails across distinctive vibes, especially in the context of their sporty aesthetics.

The Rolex Yacht-Master is often perceived as having a slightly more laid-back, sporty-yet-elegant aura, complementing a leisurely yacht deck day. On the flip side, the Rolex Submariner Date embraces its rugged, utilitarian roots, designed for divers — it has a more robust appearance suited for an adventurous spirit. 

By understanding their differences, you can determine which between the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Submariner Date match your needs, tastes, and preferences. This article comprehensively outlines the polarity between these Rolex watches . 

Comparison Table: Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner Date

When deciding between the Rolex Yacht-Master and Submariner, it is essential to consider each timepiece’s purpose and style preferences. 

The Yacht-Master , with cases available in 37mm, 40mm, and 42mm, offers a water resistance of 100m, suitable for occasional aquatic activities. Conversely, the Submariner , available in 37mm, 40mm, and 41mm sizes, boasts a 300m water resistance, ideal for divers and water sports aficionados.

Ultimately, the decision between the Rolex Yacht-Master and Submariner comes down to personal preferences, intended use, and style considerations. 

The following sections will dive deeper into the major aspects in which the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Submariner Date differ. 

Heritage and Brand

The history of Submariner , began in 1953, didn’t merely indicate time but curated a legacy that struck a balance between daily utility and diver-friendly functionality, augmented by a date feature. Its path, traversed by icons like James Bond and Jacques Cousteau , became synonymous with a daring spirit. 

In contrast, the Yacht-Master, casting its sails in 1992 , embarked on a journey through the elite nautical realms, immediately becoming a lighthouse of maritime luxury and pinpoint precision. 

When we traverse the perception and placement of the Submariner Date, we encounter a celebration of utility enmeshed with a stately elegance, rendering it a robust diver’s companion.

Conversely, the Yacht-Master whispers of lavish sails and elite marine escapades, without compromising on the brand’s unwavering pillars, ensuring its allure is as versatile as it is luxurious. 

Design and Aesthetics

The Yacht-Master dazzles with a bidirectional rotatable bezel adorned with polished, raised numerals against a matte, sand-blasted background, while exploring a luxurious and varied color palette of blues, grays, and Everose gold. 

The meticulously designed dial features large, luminescent hour markers and broad hands, ensuring elegance and readability, and is available in a wide range of sizes (29mm to 42mm) to accommodate various wrist dimensions. 

Conversely, the Submariner Date is renowned for its practical and rugged aesthetic, with a unidirectional rotating bezel that safeguards divers by providing bold, clear numerals and graduations. Its color scheme is classic and conservative, encapsulating the following hues: 

• Greens  

All these transition smoothly from casual to formal settings. 

The dial, though also legible, presents a sturdier look with its iconic Mercedes hands and a date window emphasized by a Cyclops lens . Predominantly sporting a masculine aura, it offers sizes like 37mm, 40mm, and 41mm. 

The Yacht-Master, a treasure of the sea, wraps the wrist in a lavish Oyster bracelet and Everose gold ensemble, whispering of opulence with every tick of its luminescent Chromalight display under a subtly glimmering sunburst dial.

Meanwhile, the bidirectional, often sandblasted or Cerachrom ceramic bezel elegantly traces adventures across calm oceans, presenting a piece that is as much a statement of luxury as it is a functional maritime timepiece.

In contrast, the Submariner Date is dominated by durable Oystersteel and accompanied by a unidirectional rotatable Cerachrom ceramic bezel, ensuring the safety and precision of timekeeping in the depths of the ocean. 

Its Chromalight display, too, emerges as a steadfast luminescent guide in the shadowy abyss, with a metal dial quietly, solemnly safeguarding the time. 

Movement and Precision

The Rolex Yacht-Master and Submariner Date, while both employing the meticulous Caliber 3235 movement and adhering to the brand’s esteemed standards of precision and reliability, present these attributes within different contexts and aesthetic appeals. 

The Yacht-Master, with its Superlative Chronometer status, assures a remarkable precision of -2/+2 seconds per day, gently transcending COSC standards and mimicking the ceaseless ebb and flow of the ocean with its perpetual rotor as well as its 70-hour power reserve.

In contrast, the Submariner Date, while also powered by the Caliber 3235 and boasting the same exceptional precision, posits itself as a sturdy and steadfast timekeeper in the solitary depths of the sea with the same 70-hour power reserve. 

Price Range

The price range for the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Submariner Date varies depending on the materials used for each model. 

Generally, though, the Yacht-Master collection demands higher price points than the other. According to Watch Charts, it retails around S$6,444 to S$55,084 in a private sales market. 

Meanwhile, the grey market may dictate more significant prices that range between S$5,106 and S$323,087 . The most exclusive and expensive Yacht-Master is typically bedazzled by gems and other stones. 

On the other hand, the Rolex Submariner Date may retail for S$14,350 to S$54,500 but can be sold in a secondary market for S$9,565 to S$563,677 , depending on the model, demand, rarity, gems and materials used, etc. 

Top 5 Yacht-Master Models

1. rolex yacht-master 226658.

Features striking black and gold hues in a 42mm case size and was introduced in 2022. Its price ranges from S$40,917 to S$67,503. 

2. Rolex Yacht-Master 126621

This is a stunning rose-gold and stainless steel watch introduced in 2019 with a case size of 40mm and a price range of S$19,245 to S$40,644.

3. Rolex Yacht-Master 126622

Showcases a striking blue dial that contrasts the silver stainless steel. This watch, introduced in 1992 is housed in a 40mm case with a market value of S$16,829 to S$31,984. 

4. Rolex Yacht-Master 226659

This white-gold model, introduced in the Basel World in 2019, has a much larger case of 42mm, featuring a black, Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert. Its value can be around S$38,381 to S$80,863. 

5. Rolex Yacht-Master 168622

The Yacht-Master 35 Rolesium is a 35mm watch powered by caliber 2235. It has an all gray aesthetic with a price of S$7,887 to S$19,611. 

Top 5 Submariner Models

1. rolex submariner date 126618ln.

This has been introduced in 2020 and is known as the Submariner Date 41 in yellow-gold and black. It is 41mm in its case size and sells for around S$50,507 to S$93,236.

2. Rolex Submariner Date 126619LB

Introduced in 2020, this Rolex Submariner Date comes in a white-gold 41mm case with a blue Cerachrom bezel. Its price may range between S$35,921 and S$91,293. 

3. Rolex Submariner Date 126618LB

The mesmerizing contrast between the blue bezel and the gold overall aesthetic of this 2020 Submariner date model is eye-catching. With its quality, expect it to have a value of S$51,137 to S$93,739.

4. Rolex Submariner Date 126613LN

This is another 2020 model housed in a stunning black 41mm bezel and powered by the calibre 3235. Its value goes anywhere between S$21,302 and S$35,861. 

5. Rolex Submariner Date 126613LB

This 2020 Submariner Bluesy model is known for its two-toned bracelet and blue bezel and dial. Its case size is 41mm, perfect for those who love large watches. Its market price can be S$20,458 to S$40,080.

The above list categorizes top models from the Rolex Yacht-Master and Submariner Date series, presenting models with unique technical specifications that cater to varied preferences and occasions.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. why is the yacht-master not as popular as the submariner.

The Yacht-Master is not as popular as the Submariner mainly because the Submariner has a longer history and a more established reputation in the watch world of professional diving. 

Launched in 1953, the Submariner’s models quickly became iconic dive watches , while the Yacht-Master was introduced in 1992 as a more luxurious and less rugged alternative. Additionally, the Submariner has been featured in various James Bond movies, which further boosts its popularity and recognition.

2. Which Submariner is the Most Popular?

The most popular Submariner model is subjective and may vary depending on personal preferences. However, the reference 116610LN (stainless steel model with black dial and black Cerachrom bezel) is often considered one of the most sought-after models. 

Its timeless design, durability, and Rolex’s signature Oyster case with a water resistance of up to 300 meters make it a popular choice among watch lovers.

While both watches offer excellent time-keeping and precision qualities, where you intended to use it is vital. If you want a dressy watch that can also be used for nautical adventures, the Yacht-Master is the way to go. Meanwhile, if your penchant lies in diving and want a watch that can succumb to the underwater pressure, the Submariner Date is the better choice.

Key Takeaways

• The Yacht-Master and the Submariner Date employ the Caliber 3235 movement, reflecting Rolex’s dedication to precision.
• While the Yacht-Master flaunts a bidirectional rotating bezel suitable for maritime luxury, the Submariner Date offers a unidirectional bezel tailored for diving safety.
• Design-wise, the Yacht-Master presents a polished aesthetic adaptable to various settings, while the Submariner Date remains a hallmark of diving utility with a bolder presence.

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Submariner vs. Sea-Dweller: Which Should I Buy?

March 14, 2023

From a distance, it is easy to mistake a Sea-Dweller for a Submariner and vice versa. Despite their similar appearance, the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller have several important differences that endow each with its own unique appeal. (It should be noted that the Sea-Dweller Collection also includes the 44-millimeter Deep Sea and the recently released 50-millimeter Deep Sea Challenge; these watches are less worthy of comparison as the gulf between them and the Submariner is far greater than that which separates the Submariner and 43-millimeter Sea-Dweller.) While there is no definite winner between these two timepieces, there is a better choice for each individual buyer, even if it ultimately comes down to wrist size. For the sake of comparison, I'll focus on the most similar and recent references, the Submariner Date 126610 and the Sea-Dweller 126600 , while touching on some other variations along the way.

Long-time enthusiasts and watch newcomers alike view the Submariner as the quintessential dive watch–Rolex even calls it "the reference among divers' watches," and rightfully so. Its classic design has been emulated in countless inferior timepieces capitalizing on the Submariner's timeless allure. While not the first dive watch, the Submariner is certainly the best known. First produced in 1953, the diver has had plenty of time to gain this status. Notably, the Submariner was the first watch to be waterproof to 100 meters. A "big crown" Submariner even adorned the wrist of Sean Connery in the early Bond films.

The Sea-Dweller's past, while less illustrious, ties into its rugged appeal. The watch was born of an increased demand from professional divers for dive watches which could withstand greater depths. In 1967, Rolex developed the first Sea-Dweller, though the company would only release it in 1971. In the late 1960s, Rolex also designed a helium escape valve to combat damage from decompression. Since its introduction, the Sea-Dweller has achieved its fair share of accolades. In 1988, a 534-meter dive on which Sea-Dwellers were used set a record for actual offshore diving. In 1992, Theo Mavrostomos wore a Sea-Dweller on his record-setting 701-meter dive in a hyperbaric chamber.

Case and Bracelet

The most apparent difference between the two watches is case size. The Sea-Dweller is notably larger with a diameter of 43 millimeters and hefty thickness of roughly 15 millimeters. In 2020, Rolex upsized the Submariner Collection from 40 millimeters to 41 in line with a broader trend in the industry towards larger sizes for sports and professional watches . The current Submariner has a more wearable case which is two millimeters smaller than the Sea-Dweller in both diameter and height. Both watches feature the iconic three-link Oyster bracelet and clasp.

Case material may also differ. The Submariner offers more case variations including full yellow gold, white gold, and diamond set cases. However, most references are made in Oystersteel. Two-tone (Oystersteel and yellow gold) variations can be found in both collections.

Waterproofness and Pressure

Besides size, the greatest differentiator between the two cases is waterproofness. The Sea-Dweller is rated to 4000 feet (1220 meters) while the Submariner is only waterproof to 1000 feet (300 meters). Unlike the Submariner, the Sea-Dweller features a helium escape valve. After a deep saturation dive, a diver must enter a decompression chamber filled with a gas mixture that includes helium. Helium's tiny size allows it to diffuse into the case. The difference in pressure between the inside and outside of the watch due to this trapped gas may cause damage during decompression; crystals have been known to pop off, for example. The spring-loaded, one-way valve fixes this issue by opening when the pressure differential is 3 to 5 bars (enough to overcome the force of the spring).

Modern Sea-Dweller and Submariner references use a unidirectional, rotatable, 60-minute bezel with a Cerachrom insert and platinum-coated numerals and graduations. The Submariner began featuring Cerachrom, Rolex's proprietary durable ceramic, several years before the Sea-Dweller.

Both watches feature a sapphire crystal. The Submariner Date has continually used a date magnification lens ("cyclops") since its introduction in the late 1960s. The Sea-Dweller only began using the cyclops lens in 2017.

Dial and Hands

The two watches share the same iconic hand set and hour markers. Unlike the Sea-Dweller, the Submariner is available in a variation with no date. Like with cases, the Submariner Collection has featured more dial variations, including silver, champagne, white, blue, and diamond dials in addition to the classic black dial. The dial text also differs; "Sea-Dweller" is written in red for the black-dial 126600 and gold for the two-tone 126603.

Both the current Submariner Date and Sea-Dweller use the automatic Rolex Caliber 3235 with a 70-hour power reserve. Older references feature previous generations of movements, though calibers are typically consistent for both collections. For example, the older 40-millimeter Submariner Date (116610) and Sea-Dweller 4000 (116610) use the same Caliber 3135.

Price and Demand

The base Submariner Date (126610) is 3000 dollars less expensive at retail than the base Sea-Dweller (126600). On the secondary market, this gap narrows slightly. Pricing is largely dependent on the variation. Of course, precious metal and unworn references generally carry higher price tags. Certain Submariner variations, such as the green dial and bezel "Hulk" and black dial and green bezel "Kermit," also elicit higher prices on the secondary market.

The Submariner is more popular due to its broader appeal and more prestigious past. Additionally, there is a greater demand for vintage Submariners than vintage Sea-Dwellers. To some, the fact that the Sea-Dweller is less popular may be attractive. As fewer people will own one, the watch feels more exclusive and rarer. On the other hand, the security offered by the Submariner's timelessness is reassuring; if the past is anything to go by, it seems the watch will always be in demand.

Despite the superficial similarity in looks, the Sea-Dweller and Submariner have surprisingly different appeal while remaining in the safe but alluring confines of the Rolex name and design style.

Off the bat, if your wrists are smaller than 7.5 inches, the Submariner is clearly a better choice. The Submariner is versatile, looking natural in any casual setting and on a greater range of wrist sizes. It can even be dressed up with a suit (though this may be easiest to pull off if you're James Bond). The watch's smaller size and more refined appearance give the Submariner a touch of elegance. While the timepiece is certainly more classic than the Sea-Dweller, the Submariner still retains its attractiveness as a tool or professional watch; it just does so more safely.

You should be equally confident about your watch's safety when taking a dip wearing either timepiece, even if you might feel more confident with the Sea-Dweller. If you plan to take your watch scuba diving, waterproofness might be more of a concern, though both will do fine. Let's be honest; even if you're a serious saturation diver or professional deep diver, you likely aren't wearing a Rolex–dive computers are far more useful.

Although it may never be used as one by most wearers, the excessive waterproofness and helium escape valve make the Sea-Dweller a durable and functional tool. The watch's sizable case and unnecessary functionality add to its masculine ruggedness. Simply put, both watches are "cool," but the Sea-Dweller is cool in a very different way than the Submariner is cool. With either timepiece, it's hard to go wrong. If you're lucky enough to be in a position where you can choose, prioritize how each watch makes you feel. Do you want to feel like a tan James Bond on a sunny beach in Jamaica, an underwater explorer, or perhaps a deep-sea diver jumping off a boat in the Mediterranean? That's up to you.

A Direct Comparison of Specifications

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Rolex Side-by-Side: Sea Dweller vs. Submariner

Diving developed as a sport and science in the early twentieth century. Before advancements in technology like the creation of diving computers and other equipment, divers depended on their watches. In those early days, having a reliable dive watch could be the difference between life and death.

During the mid- twentieth century, the sport of diving was growing in popularity. In turn, the production of dive watches peaked. This post-war period in the 1950s marked a significant time in the history of the dive watch. It was then that the dive watch began to garner attention not only as a diving tool but also as a fashion accessory.

The Rolex brand has built a reputation for its tireless research in the field of professional diving. In fact, they played a big role in the surge of dive watches during those pivotal moments in the 1950s. Here, we look at a side-by-side comparison between the Sea-Dweller vs. Submariner, two of Rolex’s signature dive watch models.

List of Key Differences between the Rolex Sea-Dweller vs. Submariner

• Size: The Sea-Dweller is larger, measuring 43mm, and the Submariner is smaller, measuring 40mm.
• Depth Rating: The Sea-Dweller has a significantly higher depth rating of 1220 meters, and the Submariner has a lower depth rating of 300 meters.
• Bracelet: The Sea-Dweller features the Fliplock extension link that can extend the bracelet an additional 26mm, and the Submariner has the more basic Glidelock extension system.
• Movement: The Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 features the Caliber 3235 movement, and the Submariner Ref. 116610 features the Caliber 3135 movement.
• Power Reserve: The Sea-Dweller has a higher power reserve at 70-hours, and the Submariner has a lower power reserve of only about 48-hours.

Price: Both new and pre-owned, the Sea-Dweller has a higher price point, and the Submariner has a lower price point.

Key Features of the Rolex Submariner

A pair of Submariners

The Submariner first debuted in 1953, during that key period of dive watch development in the mid-twentieth century. Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf wanted to create a dive watch that was both functional and fashionable for everyday wear. The result was the Submariner, a less-sporty design that could transition from dive to dinner party. Still, it retained the dive watch’s key features, like 100 meters of water resistance, luminous markers, and unidirectional rotating bezel. The first model introduced at the famous Basel Fair was the Reference 6204. Soon after, Rolex followed it up with the Reference 6205.

Since its initial release, the Submariner has only seen minor updates – part of the watch’s timeless charm. The Reference 5512 is an important model. That’s because it introduced two key features of the Rolex Submariner: an oversized crown and crown guards to protect it. This particular version also gained widespread popularity on the wrist of legendary actor and racer Steve McQueen .

The Submariner’s original purpose was to bridge the gap between tool watch and dress watch . However, it wasn’t until the late 1960s that the model solidified its place as more than a diver’s tool. The Reference 1680 introduced another key feature of the Rolex Submariner: the option for a date function with Cyclops lens. This additional function gave the Submariner more mass appeal.

Key Features of the Rolex Sea-Dweller

A pair of Sea Dwellers

Rolex added the Sea-Dweller to their line of dive watches about ten years after the debut of the Submariner. An industrial deep-sea diving company called Comex approached Rolex about creating a dive watch that could function at deeper depths for longer periods of time. In response, the brand took one of its existing Submariner models and began to tweak it.

The addition of one key feature set their new creation apart from the Submariner: a patented one-way helium escape valve . It sits opposite of the crown and helps to relieve the pressure experienced at greater depths. In 1967, a new model was officially born: the Sea-Dweller Reference 1665. In addition to HEV, the Sea-Dweller also boasted other key features. These included a Triplock crown, thicker crystal, and larger reinforced case. As a result, the watch offered an increased depth rating of up to 600 meters.

In the years to follow, Rolex would continue to update the Sea-Dweller with advanced technology to make it an even more optimal dive watch. Today, the model boasts double the original depth rating at 1220 meters. In addition, it showcases other key features like an upgraded movement with longer power reserve and modern Rolex bracelet design.

Key Differences between the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller

Now, let’s look at a side-by-side comparison of the Submariner and Sea-Dweller. There are a number of key differences between the Rolex Sea-Dweller vs. Submariner. Fitting with the Submariner’s appeal to watch enthusiasts and divers alike, it features a more modest size at 40mm compared to the Sea-Dweller’s 43mm.

On the other hand, the Sea-Dweller is more of a functional tool. It features a much higher water resistance of 1220 meters compared to the Submariner’s 300 meters. The Sea-Dweller also comes equipped with a more advanced bracelet system. In addition to the Glidelock extension system featured on the Submariner, the Sea-Dweller features the Fliplock extension link that can extend the bracelet an additional 26mm. The Submariner and Sea-Dweller also house different movements with different power reserves. The Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 features the Caliber 3235 movement with a 70-hour power reserve. Alternatively, the Submariner Ref. 116610 features the Caliber 3135 movement with a 48-hour power reserve. These functional differences between the Submariner and Sea-Dweller are ultimately reflected in the price. Whether you’re buying new or pre-owned, the Sea-Dweller comes in at a higher price point than the Submariner.

How to choose between the Rolex Sea-Dweller vs. Submariner

If you’re a more casual diver or looking for a more versatile model, the Submariner is a good choice. It’s an admirable dive watch that’s equally suitable for any occasion on dry land. Conversely, the Sea-Dweller is a robust tool watch. If you’re an avid diver looking to reach greater depths for prolonged periods, the Sea-Dweller is a great bet. If you look at a side-by-side comparison of the Sea-Dweller and Submariner, it all comes down to functional differences.

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Written by Crown & Caliber

Crown & Caliber is the smartest way to buy or sell a luxury watch. As an exclusively online marketplace for pre-owned timepieces, Crown & Caliber exists to ensure that when it comes down to the final transaction, buyers and sellers can both win. For sellers, we do all the legwork of valuating, marketing, and selling—for buyers, we put trust back into the act of purchasing sight-unseen with our servicing and authentication process. By emphasizing transparency and placing value on quality, Crown & Caliber has become the preferred marketplace for watch collectors and casual enthusiasts alike.

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Rolex Submariner Vs Yacht-Master Review

Rolex vs rolex.

The Sub vs the Yacht Master

In the prestigious back catalogue of Rolex watches, perhaps two of the most iconic pieces in the collection are the Rolex Submariner and the Rolex Yacht-Master. While one is almost 40 years older than the other, they’re both history-makers for watch-lovers.

However, if you’re looking to purchase one of these watches, which is the best one to go for? The truth is, you can’t really go wrong with either watch, but there are some significant differences which could sway your choice. To help you find your ideal watch between two titans in the watch world, here’s a rundown on the key features, differences and benefits.

History Of The Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner was launched in 1953 as the diver’s watch. It was the first watch on the market to come with water resistance up to 100 metres. The watch was perfectly designed for divers, not only thanks to its water resistance but also the rotating bezel that could help divers track how long they’ve spent underwater. The watch also has luminous features to improve readability on the watch when diving in the murkiest of water.

Whilst the Rolex Submariner was the first watch to deliver 100m water resistance; it wasn’t seen as the first dive watch. Omega Marine and several Navy and Special Forces watches were seen as dive watches. That said, it was Rolex who dedicated time to creating the perfect dive timepiece and with iterations from 1953 to 2020, the watch has made a name as an evolutionary piece that keeps divers at the forefront of its design.

History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

The history of the Rolex Yacht-Master actually piggy-backs off the Rolex Submariner, despite creating two entirely different watches. The Rolex Yacht-Master was launched in 1992. This was the first new model that Rolex introduced in 28 years.

However, Rolex legend has it that the designers weren’t trying to come up with a new model. Instead, Rolex wanted to significantly update their Rolex Submariner design. The designs that came back were admired but were too different from the Submariner look. It was feared that Submariner fans would not be happy with such a radical change to the design.

And so, these designs were transformed into a brand-new model, the Rolex Yacht-Master.

What’s The Difference Between The Rolex Submariner And Yacht-Master?

There are several areas where the Submariner and Yacht-Master are different:

Water Resistance : When the Submariner was initially introduced, the watch had a water resistance of 100m. However, iterations of this watch mean it can have water resistance up to 300m thanks to its Triplock – the triple-waterproof security with three sealed areas on the watch.

In contrast, the Yacht-Master offers 100m of water resistance.

Size: The Submariner is a sleek 40mm size, ideal for readability without being too much of a statement. The Rolex Yacht-Master, however, is more tailored. The Yacht-Master comes in 37mm, 40mm and 42mm cases. The 37mm was designed as a women’s watch. However, the range in sizes can suit styles for a more subtle or rugged timepiece, depending on personal preference.

Case Material : The Yacht-Master offers a stainless steel, everose, rolesor (a mix of steel and gold) and roselium (a mix of stainless steel and platinum) as case materials. In contrast, the Submariner offers a stainless steel case.

Bezel: The Submariner bezel is unidirectional to help divers keep better track of their dive time. The Yacht-Master, instead, offers a bidirectional rotating bezel.

Cost: To buy them from new, the Yacht-Master is a greater investment compared to a Submariner. However, in terms of long-term investment, both watches hold their value. Submariners traditionally hold more value in the second-hand market, but this can fluctuate depending on availability, demand, and trends.

Which Rolex Is Right For You?

The Rolex Submariner is a classic and highly desirable watch and was even James Bond’s gadget of choice. However, the  Rolex Yacht-Master offers a more rugged and sportier aesthetic compared to the more casual look of the Rolex Submariner.

With both watches available in 18k white gold, yellow gold, stainless steel, as well as a multitude of different coloured faces and bezels, the difference between a Submariner and a Yacht-Master can be a style choice as the quality and impact of both watches are assured.

If you’re struggling to choose between a Rolex Submariner or Yacht-Master, Susannah Lovis is here to help. Browse our Rolex collections online or visit us in the Burlington Arcade. If you are looking for a specific watch, we welcome you to contact our team, who will do our utmost to help you find your ideal Rolex watch.

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The Rolex Submariner Vs. The Rolex Sea-Dweller Vs. The Rolex Deepsea

Since the 1920s, the history of Rolex as a company has been inextricably linked to the sea. That was the decade that brought us their revolutionary Oyster case, the first workable, production-built waterproof watch housing.

Not only did it transform the fortunes of Rolex itself, it also heralded a paradigm shift in the way wristwatches as a whole were viewed by the public. Whereas up until then they had been regarded as little more than fragile and decorative items of jewelry worn exclusively by women, the new cases made them robust enough to be used in far more inhospitable environments.

Photo credit: @eugeneglen

The Dive Trio

By the 1950s, Scuba diving had become both a profession and a popular recreation. With decades of development on the Oyster behind them, Rolex were perfectly placed to take advantage of the phenomenon, and introduced a watch that would go onto become perhaps the most iconic timepiece ever made.

The Rolex Submariner was released in 1953, the first model to boast water resistance to 330ft, or 100m. Although it can’t be considered the originator of the modern dive watch (that has to go to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, launched a matter of months prior) its styling and abilities have made it by far the most famous.

By the 1960s, commercial diving had progressed to such an extent that even the Sub’s talents were found wanting, and Rolex again changed the game with the release of the Sea-Dweller, capable of surviving a plunge to, and crucially, the ascent back from 2,000ft.

The duo held the fort right up until 2008, when Rolex, in a bizarre move, decided to briefly retire the beloved Sea-Dweller and replace it with a watch whose capacities far exceeded any credible real world use and were more a showcase of just what Rolex was capable of—the Deepsea.

Let’s look at each in turn and see how they measure up to each other.

Photo credit: @okamu1950

The Rolex Submariner

The early life of the world’s most famous dive watch was particularly turbulent, with the model going through 10 different references in its first decade of production.

But it wouldn’t be until 1959 and the arrival of the ref. 5512 that the Sub settled down to its now accepted aesthetic; complete with crown guards, a 40mm diameter and a serrated-edged bezel that overhung the case to allow it to be used more easily while wearing diving gloves.

The biggest upheaval though, happened in 1969 when the Submariner effectively split into two families, the date and no-date.

The no-date Subs continued on very much in the same vein as they always had, never straying from a stainless steel construction and a simple black dial and bezel livery.

The date Subs however quickly left their underwater adventurer roots behind, being issued in increasingly luxurious outfits of both yellow and white gold, as well as Rolesor, Rolex’s own concoction of gold and steel. One of the most recognizable watches in the world, they have long been more status symbol than dive buddy.

Interestingly, until 1981, no Submariner can technically be called a dive watch at all. The standards set down in ISO 6425 states a prerequisite to be a unidirectional bezel, as in one that rotates only one way. It is an effective safety feature meaning, if knocked, the surround, engraved with 60 minute markings, will overestimate the length of time which has been spent underwater. That will bring the dive to an end sooner, avoiding any risk of decompression sickness.

Photo credit: @rolexdiver

But the patent for the unidirectional bezel was held by Blancpain and their aforementioned Fifty Fathoms, the license for which didn’t elapse until 1983. The ref. 16800 was the first Submariner to feature it, as well as being the first to have a waterproof rating of 300m.

These days, the Sub is still one of the most sought after watches from Rolex or any other manufacturer. The current range, now all safe to 300m, has pieces in a range of colors and forged in a variety of metals, with perhaps the most desirable being the ref. 116610LV, a green dialed and bezeled steel model nicknamed the Hulk.

Although the Submariner collection has stayed true to its 40mm dimensions (and received criticism for it of late, with voices in some quarters calling it too small for a true diver) it has been upgraded to what Rolex call their Super Case, with lugs and crown guards twice the width of before.

It gives the Submariner the wrist presence of a larger watch, without having to break from tradition.

Photo credit: @rolex_sea_dweller_4000

The Rolex Sea-Dweller

The once big brother, and now middle child, the Sea-Dweller was released in 1967 as a collaboration between Rolex and French saturation diving specialists COMEX.

COMEX’s crews, working in the deep sea oil fields of the Atlantic, were required to spend long periods living and working in underwater habitats, under great pressures. In order to breathe safely at such depth, a specially controlled gas mixture is used, containing a high proportion of helium.

With helium having the smallest molecules of practically any gas, tiny bubbles would seep into the diver’s watches. Upon ascent, those bubbles would expand, popping the crystals off the face of the watch, often at some speed.

Rolex’s solution was the HEV, or Helium Escape Valve. In essence a simple one-way regulator set in the side of the case, it would open when pressure increased inside the watch, allowing the helium to seep out harmlessly.

It was trialed in a retrofit Submariner ref. 5513 (becoming the ref. 5514 in the process) and then released as the Sea-Dweller itself, with the ref. 1665. Known as the Double Red Sea-Dweller, or DRSD, for the two lines of red text on the dial, the combination of a thicker case, domed sapphire and, of course, its HEV, meant it was rated waterproof to some 2,000ft, or 610m.

Ten years later, that resistance was doubled to 4,000ft, with the ref. 16660, or Triple Six.

Photo credit: @rolexkw

Unlike the Sub, the Sea-Dweller has stayed as an all-steel model—or it had until very recently. The watch’s 50th anniversary in 2017 was marked by a big change, with the SD’s dimensions growing to 43mm from the previous 40mm. As if that wasn’t enough, 2019 brought us the first Sea-Dweller in yellow Rolesor, giving hints of Rolex taking it down the same luxurious route as its smaller sibling. Where it will go from here is anyone’s guess, but seeing one of the toughest tool watches ever made in solid gold is no longer out of the question.

Photo credit: @thewatchclub

The Rolex Deepsea

While its general styling puts the Deepsea as very much part of the Rolex diving family, inside it is a much altered beast.

At 44mm in diameter, and some 17.7mm thick, it is the biggest watch the brand makes. That, of course, is to be expected of something that is expected to keep working at 12,800ft; as near as makes no difference two-and-a-half miles underwater.

At that depth, the pressure is around 5,500 lbs. per square inch, so building a timepiece which can survive it calls for the pinnacle of engineering prowess. Key to it is something Rolex call their Ringlock System, which consists of three main components.

The first is a sapphire crystal, the element with the largest exposed surface area, which measures around 5.5mm in thickness, the same as the whole of some dress watches.

Photo credit: @rolex.lover1

Secondly is a two-piece case back made from grade 5 TA6V titanium which is designed to flex slightly to absorb the incredible forces. And finally, encircling it all is a central ring forged from a nitrogen-alloyed steel mainly used for surgical implants, called BioDur 108. Three times stronger than even the 904L steel Rolex uses in their cases and bracelets (already the toughest steel used by any mainstream manufacturer) it redistributes the crushing weight pushing down on the crystal around the circumference of the Deepsea’s body.

On its release, the model took the Guinness World Record for water resistance in an automatic timepiece, beating the ‘CX Swiss Military Watch™ 12,000 FEET’. But it held the title for only a year, before CX hit back with the ‘20,000 FEET’ in 2019. However, although the Deepsea is a large watch, it is still eminently wearable, whereas the ‘20,000 FEET’ weighs in at 46mm in diameter and a punishing 28.5mm thick. There aren’t many shirt sleeves something with that sort of bulk will be slipping under.

It is a testament to the unrivalled ingenuity on display at Rolex that a watch with so vast a performance capability can still be worn as an everyday piece.

Which is Best?

There is, of course, no right answer. Every one of Rolex’s famed trio possesses more than enough strength to survive just about any dive a human is capable of. The difference between the three is really down to which visual you prefer.

The Submariner remains the smallest, and the one available in the widest range of color and metal options.

The Sea-Dweller has a few extra millimeters in diameter, but with a relatively slender profile. It also has the recently introduced half and half Rolesor option.

The Deepsea is the most noticeably weighty of them all, but is still an easy wear, particularly since its slight redesign in 2018 that slimmed the lugs and widened the bracelet, providing a better overall balance. It comes in the standard black dial variant as well as a very special, two-tone ombré style known as the D-Blue.

Made to honor the achievement of movie director James Cameron as he became the first person to dive solo to the deepest point on earth, the Challenger Deep inside the Mariana Trench, the dial starts in a royal blue at the top before fading to a rich black at the bottom, a visual representation of the descent into the fathomless depths.

So, three dive watches from the world’s leading watchmaker, each really building on the achievements of the other. It is a story of relentless progress going back over 60+ years, and they remain the very best of their type to this day.

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The Rolex Yacht-Master vs. the Submariner: What’s the difference?

Few sports watches yield as much influence as Rolex’s two nautical timepieces: The Rolex Yacht-Master and the Submariner. While one is considered the most famous model in the Swiss brand’s extensive catalogue, the other is a luxurious icon, a classic in its own right. 

Undeniably, the 1953 Rolex Submariner has long been the most esteemed nautical timepiece for divers, and its reputation as James Bond’s signature watch pre-Omega cements its iconic status. However, the 1992 Yacht-Master offers stern competition, with a luxurious design that is effortlessly timeless and rich in yachting heritage. 

However, despite differences in appearance, performance, and mechanics, the Yacht-Master and Submariner are inextricably intertwined with each other’s identity, making it difficult for Rolex collectors to choose a favourite. Here, we look at the difference between the Yacht-Master and Submariner series to help you choose the best one.

Pictured left: Submariner 126613LB – Mens Watch – Blue Dial – 2021

Pictured right: Yacht-Master 16623 – Mens Watch – White Dial – 2015

Table of contents

The Rolex Submariner

• The Rolex Yacht-Master 
• How are the Rolex Submariner and Yacht-Master Related?
• Yacht-Master vs. Submariner dials
• Rolex watch movement differences

Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner: Shop Rolex at Miltons Diamonds

Rolex yacht-master vs. the submariner.

Our recent blog posts discuss the distinctive histories of the Rolex Submariner and Yacht-Master . However, before delving into the differences between these two iconic timepieces, read on for a brief introduction.

Widely considered the most famous Rolex watch, the Submariner’s reputation precedes itself. It launched in 1953 and, in doing so, made history as the first timepiece for divers waterproof to a depth of 100 metres. 

Rolex Submariner 16610 – Mens Watch – Black Dial – 40mm – 2002

Today, the Submariner enjoys legendary status in Rolex’s extensive catalogue. It has received various updates to enhance and perfect its performance, from increasing its waterproof depth to 300 metres to aesthetic changes that have cemented its status as Rolex’s most luxurious talking point.

While divers’ needs determine the Submariner’s design, its reach has extended well beyond the community it was initially intended for. Each model sets a benchmark for diver’s watches worldwide while simultaneously offering Rolex collectors a practical timepiece that exudes luxury.

The Rolex Yacht-Master

Launched in 1992, the Rolex Yacht-Master bezel allows the user to measure time intervals, perfect for yacht racing. Luxury is at the forefront of its design, with the original model featuring a magnificent gold profile that demands attention in any setting. 

Rolex Yacht-Master 16623 – Men’s Watch – Blue Dial – 2005

Upon release, the Yacht-Master was positioned as a luxury watch featuring beautifully crafted premium materials like gold and platinum. It was immediately well-received by Rolex collectors worldwide – so much so that some fifteen years later, Rolex expanded the series with the 2007 Yacht-Master II . This updated take on the classic took Rolex’s grandeur and turned it on its head, presenting an overstated look that caused time to stand still, dividing collectors’ opinions far and wide.

Today, the Yacht-Master series is considered a timeless icon, soon to be a classic. Moreover, its glamorous design, rich sailing heritage, and exemplary sporting features make it as relevant today as it was upon release.

How are the Rolex Submariner and Yacht-Master related?

The Rolex Submariner and Yacht-Master are renowned for their iconic designs dedicated to sports enthusiasts’ needs. However, they share much more than seafaring heritage, with the Yacht-Master rumoured to originally be an adventurous remodelling of the classic diver’s watch. 

Rumours indicate that Rolex had plans to redesign the famed Submariner watch, creating a more luxurious take on the classic. However, plans were abandoned for undisclosed reasons, leaving the Swiss brand with unfinished work. 

Rather than abandoning the project entirely, Rolex released a separate model: The 1992 Yacht-Master. This new timepiece offered collectors a more glamorous showpiece than the Submariner, with an unapologetically luxurious look.

What’s the difference between the Yacht-Master and the Submariner?

There’s no denying that these two timepieces share similar aesthetics. However, there is a world of difference between them. Read on as we delve into the differences between the Yacht-Master and Submariner!

Rolex creates various bezels, from those designed to add aesthetic impact and luxury to functional bezels that transform a traditional timepiece into a tool watch. The Submariner and Yacht-Master both feature practical bezels. However, neither forgo luxury. 

The Submariner bezels have been crafted from aluminium and, more recently, a ceramic alloy, which is durable and scratch-resistant. It is unidirectional, turning one way to prevent confusion when diving – a crucial safety element. Moreover, in keeping with diving precautions, it is marked for 60 minutes, with practical markers for the first 15.

On the contrary, the Yacht-Master’s bezel rotates in both directions, allowing the wearer complete flexibility when timing regatta races. It is expertly crafted from the most luxurious materials, including platinum and 18ct gold. The bezel also features raised 60-minute gradations that sit on the surface of the bezel rather than being engraved. 

The Submariner and Yacht-Master have been available with various dial styles and colours. However, the Yacht-Master was the first Rolex to feature the maxi dial, with oversized hour markers and wider hands. While the maxi dial has historically divided opinion, it serves a distinct purpose for yachting enthusiasts, making the dial much easier to read.

The maxi dial would be added to the Submariner much later (Vintage models like the 5513 dials also share this nickname), offering a chromalight display for enhanced visibility underwater and in dark environments, an essential safety feature for divers. 

Watch movement differences

The Submariner and Yacht-Master previously featured the calibre 3135 movement, which has powered the Submariner since 1998. However, Rolex updated the 126622 Yacht-Master in 2019 with a new movement: The calibre 3235. This enhanced the watches’ efficiency by approximately 15% and offered an improved 70-hour power reserve.

While this updated movement inevitably pits the Yacht-Master ahead of the Submariner, the beloved divers’ watch later received the upgraded 3235 movement with the introduction of the 126610 Submariner in 2020.

Yacht-Master and Submariner sizes

The Yacht-Master was the first sports watch available in three sizes: 29mm, 35mm, and 40mm. On the contrary, the Submariner is largely available in 40mm and 41mm sizes. However, between 1953 and 1959, several stainless steel Submariner models were available in 37mm.

Pictured left: Submariner 116613LN – Men’s Watch – Black Dial – 2014

Pictured right: Yacht-Master 126621 – Gents Watch – Black Dial – 2020

Although they feature various similarities, the Rolex Yacht-Master and Submariner offer Rolex collectors two different experiences. While the Submariner exudes understated luxury, the Yacht-Master is unashamedly bold and glamorous, and the Yacht-Master ll even more so. 

However, when choosing between these iconic sports watches, there’s no wrong choice, with each model promising a truly opulent timepiece that will be appreciated in any setting.

At Miltons Diamonds, we offer a beautiful range of Rolex models for every collector and occasion, complete with genuine Rolex boxes, papers and manuals. Shop the Yacht-Master and Submariner in various finishes today. Or, for more magnificent Rolex watches, shop our complete Rolex collection .

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Rolex Yacht-Master II vs. Rolex Sky-Dweller Comparison

Although they are by far the two most complicated watches in Rolex’s current lineup, on the face of it, the Sky-Dweller and the Yacht-Master II wouldn’t seem to have that much in common. Certainly, as far as the visuals are concerned, there is a world of difference. One is elegantly understated, the other just about as in-your-face as anything in the portfolio. However, once you get away from the aesthetics, the pair of watches actually share a number of similarities. Below we examine each model, and explore what makes them both rather special additions to the Rolex lineup.

Rolex Complications

Rolex has built much of its unassailable reputation by producing watches that are stylish, elegant, robust, and most of all, mechanically simple. Aside from the Daytona’s chronograph complication, as far as Rolex’s main production models are concerned, a GMT function or the President’s double calendar is really as complicated as the brand has ever gotten.

Dig back far enough into the archives and you will find a moonphase model from the 1950s (now resurrected in the Cellini line) but apart from that, for the first century in business, Rolex has really been perfecting the art of the simple three-hand time teller, with perhaps a date display if you’re lucky.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II

That all changed in 2007, when Rolex launched the sequel to the original Yacht-Master, and brought us the inventively titled Yacht-Master II. Identical to its sibling in no way whatsoever, the Yacht-Master II (sometimes referred to as the Yacht-Master 2 or YMII) was as radical a departure from the usually conservative Rolex playbook as you could get.

At 44mm, it was easily the largest watch in the collection, and was a big, bold attention-grabber marketed at a particularly niche section of the buying public. Shouting its name in huge letters across the bezel, and given a mishmash of elements on its dial, there was no chance of it going unnoticed. It was released in two variants initially, the ref. 116689 in white gold was the slightly more underplayed (and expensive) of the pair, while the ref. 116688 in yellow gold with a bright blue Cerachrom bezel was the real grandstander.

Inside both, the Cal. 4160 was a heavily reworked version of the Daytona’s Cal. 4130, and it powered the industry’s first programmable flyback or fly-forward regatta timer with a mechanical memory. What would you possibly ever need one of those for? Well, the clue is very much in the name, with the watch built explicitly for the world’s competitive yacht-racing crowd.

Rolex has been involved in the impossibly glamorous sport of professional sailing for decades, sponsoring some of the highest profile events around the globe, including the Rolex Fastnet and the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race. It was to help captains of the ships in these races overcome the timing challenges of regatta competitions that the Yacht-Master II’s very specific complication was invented.

Each contest begins with a countdown to the starting gun, usually between five and 10 minutes long, during which the boats must tack back and forth behind the start line. The watch’s timer allows the wearer to set that duration on the dial as a normal method but, crucially, also gives the ability to resynchronize it with the official clock if it is accidentally started too early or late. In addition, instead of a typical flyback, the Yacht-Master II resets itself forward or backwards to the nearest minute rather than to zero.

The complex operations require not only two pushers either side of the winding crown, but also the first generation of Rolex’s Ring Command Bezel, which links the outer bezel of the watch directly to the internal movement. The bezel on the Yacht-Master II serves as a form of analogue on/off switch, locking and unlocking the various features, to facilitate the setting process for the countdown timer.

Since the original launch of the Yacht-Master II collection, the range has expanded to include a two-tone Everose Rolesor edition and an all stainless steel piece, both fitted with blue Cerachom bezels. In 2013, the Yacht-Master II got an update to its movement in the form of the Cal. 4161. An evolution of the Cal. 4160 that contains 360 components and took Rolex over 35,000 hours to devise.

Although no one was in any doubt that the watch was an impressive technical achievement, the aesthetics split opinions. There was none of the subtlety that traditionalists have long valued with Rolex, with the face made up of an unusual set of features – a small seconds sub dial at the bottom and a horseshoe-shaped counter around the top, numbered 1 to 10 for the regatta countdown, along with an arrow-tipped additional hand.

However, as with many offerings from the brand, the Yacht-Master II’s looks have found their footing over time, and the watch has become more and more accepted. Today, although not worn by that many skippers (in the same way Rolex’s dive watches rarely see the ocean) the Yacht-Master II has certainly found an appreciative audience beyond its intended boat-racing market.

The Rolex Sky-Dweller 

Even though you would never guess from its appearance, the Sky-Dweller is an even more complex beast than the Yacht-Master II. Its graceful silhouette and fluted bezel land it firmly in dress watch territory, and at first glance it could be mistaken for a Datejust or Day-Date. However, look closer and you see the dial has far more information to tell us than either of those classic pieces, and it actually does what no other Rolex watch ever has.

As well as a date function at the standard three o’clock position, the rotating off-centered disc is a new take on a dual time zone display, and expertly hidden is the brand’s first ever annual calendar. To cram all that in on a watch with no additional buttons to ruin the symmetry of the case is little short of amazing, and involves an updated version of Rolex’s Ring Command Bezel. This time, instead of just allowing the functions to be turned on and off like on the Yacht-Master II, the Sky-Dweller’s three-position bezel selects each individual operation as you rotate it, and all settings and adjustments are done with just the winding crown.

First released in 2012, the Sky-Dweller was originally only available in all precious metal; either yellow gold, Everose gold, or white gold. The hefty price tags attached to each, coupled with the somewhat unorthodox looks, meant that the watch failed to catch on at the beginning. Three more versions followed in 2014, with a changeup of dial color and bracelet options, but they were still pricey, solid-gold affairs.

It was only in 2017 that the first two-tone and stainless steel models arrived (albeit with an 18k white gold bezel), with a corresponding drop in price, bringing the Sky-Dweller within reach of a wider audience and starting it on its journey towards its current highly desirable status. All iterations are driven by another massively complex movement, in this case the Cal. 9001. Made up of 380 parts, it is the most component-heavy caliber Rolex has made and powers not only the standard functions and the GMT, but also the annual calendar, a system that the brand calls SAROS.

Like all annual calendars, the Sky-Dweller’s date only needs correcting once a year, at the end of February. At all other times, the mechanism compensates for the different number of days in the month. And the way it presents the month display for the complication is also unique: above each of the 12 hour markers is a small aperture, used to represent the month of the year. The current one is filled in in a solid color – so a blocked out window above the six o’clock signifies June, over the seven is for July, etc. It is a superbly economical way of doing things, and allows for a far more uncluttered display than would otherwise be possible.

The GMT function is likewise a novel experience. The small inner disc does away with the need for an extra hand as on the GMT-Master or Explorer II. Instead, it is simply marked with a 24-hour scale and rotates to show the correct time at the top, which is indicated by a small triangle. All told, the Sky-Dweller adds up to one of the most complete and impressive luxury traveler’s watches presently on offer.

Yacht-Master II vs. Sky-Dweller

So we have two pretty extraordinary watches, each designed for a definite purpose, and containing technology unseen anywhere else in the brand’s collection. One is a born showman, the other quietly sophisticated, but both do their respective jobs extremely well.

Is there a case for calling one better than the other? Like all these things, is it completely subjective. Yes, the chances are that you will rarely (if ever) use the Yacht-Master II’s party piece for its intended purpose. However, the countdown timer can still be used for timing anything else (just as long it doesn’t take more than 10 minutes). Additionally, it is a quirky, imposing, supersized watch that is guaranteed to get you seen.

The Sky-Dweller, on the other hand, wins out in day-to-day usability, with the annual calendar one of the most valued complications a watch can have, and the GMT functionality perfect for jet-setters or frequent travelers. At 42mm, it is also slightly more compact than the Yacht-Master II, and can be worn with a wider selection of outfits. The model you choose will always come down to personal taste, but it is reassuring to know both come from just about the finest watchmaker on the planet, and have an engineering virtuosity that is second to none.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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