model racing yacht plans

The home of the worlds best R/C Model Aircraft Designers

UK Manufactured to order: Guaranteed Quality

Products search

Login         FAQ

[email protected]   +44 (0)1684 311682

• Unorthodox Aircraft
• X-List Plans (Aircraft)
• F/F Sport & Competition
• C/L Aerobatic
• Round The Pole
• Brian Taylor
• Dennis Bryant
• Chris Golds
• Duncan Hutson
• Dave Hurrell
• Peter Miller
• Sepp Uiberlacher
• RCM&E Magazine Designs
• All Aircraft Plans not yet categorised
• All Short Kit (Sets)
• Scale Short Kit (Sets)
• Sport Short Kit (Sets)
• Depron Short Kit (Sets)
• All Laser Cut Wood Packs
• Scale Laser Cut Wood Packs
• Sport Laser Cut Wood Packs
• All Additional Wood Packs
• Scale Additional Wood Packs
• Sport Additional Wood Packs
• Private & Trainer aircraft
• Transport Aircraft
• WW1 Aircraft
• WW2 Aircraft
• JetWorks - Semi-Scale Park Jets
• Static Aircraft Wood Kits
• All Aircraft Parts
• ABS Sets & Fairing
• Cowls & Nacelles
• Intakes & Rads
• Spats & Undercarriage
• Spinners & Prop Nuts
• Cliff Charlesworth Cowls
• All Canopies & Screens
• Cliff Charlesworth Canopies
• Jilles Smits Canopies
• Pat Teakle Canopies
• Guns, Sights & Cockpits
• All Materials
• Depron Foam
• All Covering & Tools
• DiaCov 1000 Covering
• Lightweight Tissue
• Rotary Tools
• All Perma-Grit Tools
• Sanding & Filing Tools
• Cutting Tools
• Screwdrivers
• Hex Wrenches
• Clamps & Pliers
• Airbrushing
• Lighting & Magnification
• Marking & Measuring
• Model Aircraft Covering
• RTF Aircraft
• ARTF Aircraft
• Free Flight
• Books & Specials
• DVDs & Blu-Ray
• Bargain Aircraft DVDs SAVE!
• Full Size Focus CD
• Line Drawings
• Model Aircraft Magazine Plans
• Cabin Cruisers
• Coastal Forces
• Fishing Boats
• Paddle Steamers
• Leisure Craft
• Scale Traditional Craft - British Isles
• Merchant Vessels
• Scale Traditional Craft - Non British Isles
• Passenger Ferries
• Steam Designs
• Patrol Launch
• Rescue & Lifeboats
• Working Boats & Ships
• Traditional Craft - British Isles
• Traditional Craft - Non British Isles
• Racing Sailing Boats
• Sport Sailing Boats & Yachts
• Scale Sailing Boats & Yachts
• Competition Powerboats
• Competition Powerboats - IC
• Competition Powerboats - Electric
• Easy to Build Boats
• Engineering
• Hydroplanes
• X-List Plans (Boats)
• All other Boat Plans & not yet categorised
• All Plan & Hull Sets
• Sailing Plan & Hull Sets
• Motor Boat Plan & Hull Sets
• David Alderton Plan & Hull Sets
• All Boat Short Kit (Sets)
• Sailing Short Kit (Sets)
• Motor Boat Short Kit (Sets)
• All Boat Laser Cut Wood Packs
• Sailing Laser Cut Wood Packs
• Motor Laser Cut Wood Packs
• Sailing Additional Wood Packs
• Motor Additional Wood Packs
• All Boat Additional Wood Packs
• All Static Model Boats
• Narrow Static Boats
• Motor/Steam Static Boats
• Sailing Static Boats
• Working Static Boats
• RC Boat Kits
• Ready To Run Model Boats
• Boat Fittings
• Electronics (Boats)
• Hulls (FG & ABS)
• Plastic Materials & Parts
• Airbrushing (Boats)
• Rotary Tools (Boats)
• Internal Combustion Engines
• Steam Engines & Plant
• Workshop Equipment
• Model Railway Plans
• All Engineering Plans not yet categorised
• Military Vehicles
• Maintenance Trays
• Scale Model Boats
• Scale Model Buildings
• OO Gauge Parts & Kits
• O Gauge Parts & Kits
• HO Scale Parts
• White Metal Fittings
• Airbrushing (Engineering)
• Rotary Tools (Engineering)
• Engineering DVDs & Blu-Ray
• All Model Aircraft Covering
• DiaCov 1000
• Sanding & Filing
• Aircraft Books & Specials
• Aircraft DVDs & Blu-Ray
• Bargain DVDs SAVE!
• Boat Books & Specials
• Boat DVDs & Blu-Ray
• Books & Specials
• Chargers & Leads
• Control Boards & Accessories
• Hot-end Parts/Kits
• Motors/Drivers
• Teeth, Wheels & Bearings
• VORON Parts
• Automotive Parts
• Crafts & Games
• Electric Scooters
• Medical / Health
• Shot Glass Trays

30 years Experience

Of Scratch Building & Modelling The Home of the Model Builder

Made in our Workshop

Laser Cut & Printed to Order Guaranteed Quality & Detail

Sailing Boats & Yachts

Showing 1–50 of 161 results

Varmint MM2129

Water Baby ‘A’ – Plan

Ardent – Plan + Article

Argus MM405

Ariel MM746 Static Sail Plan

BALLAST PROFILES

Banoosh MM1353 Static Sail Plan

Barge Yacht MM902 Static Sail Plan

Birkenhead Catamaran MM1121

Bluebottle MM293

Boom Safar MM1327 Static Sail Plan

BRAINE AND VANE STEERING

Breakaway MM1369

Breeze (Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter) – By Dave Alderton

Brig SY34 Static Sail Plan

Brigantine SY33 Static Sail Plan

‘Hilda 2’ (Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter) – By David Alderton

Britannia – The Kings Racing Cutter – Plan

Buoy Cat MM728

Burutu & Bajima Tug

Caribee MM403

Celia Jane MM1365

“Gypsy Queen” Yarmouth Lugger

Galway Hooker – by Mike Mayhew of Waverley Models

China Boy MM501

Nookie Bear – Radio 10 Rater – Plan

Wing Ray – Plan by Vic Smeed

Comet Catamaran Plan MM1139

Crackerbox – Plan

Cumulus (Marblehead) – Plan & Article

Cutter Rig SY29 Static Sail Plan

Cygnette MM762

Dabchick – Plan

Dinghy MM153 Static Sail Plan

Duckling RC1344

Dutch Auxiliary MM240

Dutch Yacht MM1203 Static Sail Plan

Early Sixth Rate SY24 Static Sail Plan

Enterprise Static Sail – Plan

Eowyn Of Rohan MM1181

• Patrol Launch (11)
• Scale Traditional Craft - British Isles (9)
• Scale Traditional Craft - Non British Isles (5)
• Cabin Cruisers (27)
• Coastal Forces (83)
• Fishing Boats (25)
• Leisure Craft (47)
• Rescue & Lifeboats (23)
• Merchant Vessels (51)
• Steam Designs (23)
• Passenger Ferries (12)
• Trawlers (41)
• Tug Boats (85)
• Warships (128)
• Paddle Steamers (12)
• Working Boats & Ships (148)
• Traditional Craft - British Isles (14)
• Traditional Craft - Non British Isles (7)
• Warship (4)
• Racing Sailing Boats (26)
• Scale Sailing Boats & Yachts (72)
• Sport Sailing Boats & Yachts (27)
• Easy to Build Boats (14)
• Engineering (21)
• Competition Powerboats (7)
• Competition Powerboats - Electric (7)
• Competition Powerboats - IC (9)
• Hovercraft (11)
• Hydroplanes - Electric (7)
• Hydroplanes - IC (7)
• Straight Runners (2)
• Submarines - Scale (18)
• Submarines - Sport (3)
• Unconventional Boats (16)
• X-List Plans (Boats) (20)
• All Boat Plans not yet categorised (149)

Filter by price

Average rating.

• Rated 5 out of 5 (2)
• Rated 4 out of 5 (1)

Frank Russell Design

R/c and model yacht design, plans, boats, sails..

LOA: 938mm LWL: 915mm BOA: 190mm Disp: 5.1kg

PDF Plan emailed or Printed and posted on 6 A4 and A3 sheets

If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or 3D or printed paper plan, postage extra.

Ellipsis 36 2023 is a 36 inch restricted class designs based on the Ellipsis IOM design. The 36r design was a request from a UK skipper for a lighter version of the 2017 design for both Radio and vane sailing. This design shuld be more suitable for lighter wind smooth water venues than the 2017.

LOA: 938mm LWL: 915mm BOA: 189mm Disp: 4.4kg

Goth 36 2017 is an 36 inch restricted class design based on the Goth IOM design. The original request came from John Fisher in 2013 who wanted a very light 36r for vane sailing. This design is the third design in the series, which has progressively become heavier and more successful.

Goth 36 is an 36 inch restricted class design based on the Goth IOM design. The original request came from John Fisher in 2013 who wanted a very light 36r for vane sailing. this design is the second in the series, heavier and more successful.   There is also a later 2017 version which will be published soon.

LOA: 938mm LWL: 899mm BOA: 190mm Disp: 4.4kg

AMYA Boat Classes

--> --> --> -->

Search for a Boat Class

-->  - Developmental    4    43    49
 - 
--> The Ten Rater is a medium-sized yacht with a reputation for speed. This development class is restricted by a simple formula of waterline length multiplied by sail area, multiplied by eight, to equal ten or less. As there are few restrictions, the class allows the greatest freedom for development and experimentation. 60-65" long.
-->
*  - Developmental    5    32    82
 - 
--> The 36/600 has an appearance similar to the Marblehead yachts. This development class is restricted in overall length and sail area. While these yachts are commercially available, their simplicity also makes them a good choice for beginning builders. 36" long, 600 sq. inches sail area.
-->
 - Developmental    4    31    48
 - 
--> Also called "M" or "50/800". The Marblehead is a medium-sized yacht providing exciting performance and the ability to handle most sailing conditions if rigged properly. This development class is restricted in overall length and sail area. The Marblehead was considered the leader in the use of advanced construction materials and techniques. 50" long, 800 sq. inches sail area.
-->
*  - One Design    2    37    53
 - 
--> The Canterbury J originated in Christchurch, New Zealand, based on the J Class Ranger. A 48 inch Fiberglass hull and lead Keel both made from Class molds. Everything else can be made by the builder. Total weight of ready to sail boat is 14lbs 5oz.
-->
*  - One Design    2    21    34
 - 
--> The Columbia 42 is a semi-scale 12 meter model of the Sparkman and Steven's designed winner of the America's Cup. This boat was generally accepted as the best sailing of the 12's and also the best looking boat on the water.
-->
 - One Design    16    91    188
 - 
--> The CR 914 is based on the original design of the International America's Cup Class.This one design class allows no variations in hulls, spars, sails or replacement parts. 36" (914mm) long, 658 sq. in. sail area, 6.25 lb displacement.
-->
 - One Design    100    780    1415
 - 
--> The DragonFlite 95 is a Restricted One Design boat that is meant to compete within a strict set of rules to ensure a true test of a skipper.s ability to tune their boat and race it well.
-->
 - One Design    57    321    486
 - 
--> The DragonForce 65 is the fastest growing class of RC sailboats in the U.S. The boat has earned this distinction by being a great one-design sailing boat while being the least expensive ready-to-sail boat on the market. At around $300 for a boat with radio and receiver and about 2 hours of assembly and you're on the water.
-->
 - One Design    45    255    574
 - 
--> Based on a 1962-63 vintage design for a full-size International 12 Meter. This medium-sized yacht's hull must be initially purchased from a licensed builder. Decks and sails are strictly controlled, purchased or made from scratch. Almost all other equipment is up to the owner. Approx 58" long.
-->
 - One Design    3    10    37
 - 
--> One Design Class sanctioned in 2002. The Fairwind is built by One Manufacturer. The Kyosho Fairwind are 36" (900mm) long replicas of International Offshore Racing (IOR) yachts with cabins.
-->
*  - Developmental    8    53    117
 - 
--> Sanctioned in 2006. Low cost, fun, easy to build class that puts to rest the theory that boats under 30" long don't sail well. 12" long (thus "Footy") is the smallest of the development class yachts.
-->
 - One Design    3    30    36
 - 
--> The Infinity 54 is an original design expressly for model yacht racing. This one design class allows no variations in either original assembly or replacement parts. 54" long.
-->
*  - One Design    36    164    276
 - 
--> Sanctioned in 1998. The International One Metre is the fastest growing class in the world. The rules in this class are identical to those used throughout the globe. The class has a one-design rig and weight minimums, but the hull design is very much developmental. One meter long, with a sail area as large as a Marblehead. 39.37" long (One meter)
-->
 - One Design    5    70    151
 - 
--> The J class yachts are 1/16 scale versions of the original 1930's J-boats only, making it the largest of all the RC yachts. These classic yachts recreate the style of yachting's Golden Era, on a grand but affordable scale. Approx. 85-95" long. The largest class in the AMYA, the "J" boat
-->
 - Developmental    10    88    222
 - 
--> The Marblehead (or simply "M") is a 50 inch long yacht providing exciting performance and the ability to handle most sailing conditions if rigged properly. This development class is restricted in overall length and sail area. It has spawned two sub-classes, the "American Marblehead" and the "Classic Marblehead". The Marblehead is considered the leader in the use of advanced construction materials and techniques. 50" long, 800 sq. inches sail area.
-->
*  - One Design    15    122    247
 - 
--> One of the most popular model yachts in the world, the Graupner Micro Magic was designed for racing. Its performance is all out of proportion to its small size. The class is managed by a Class Owners Association that is part of the International Micro Magic Class. 53.5 cm long.
-->
 - One Design    2    17    33
 - 
--> The Newport 12 Meter is a 1/12 scale model of a typical full-size 12 Meter. Hulls/kits are available from McClung's Enterprises and is 72" long.
-->
*  - One Design    2    11    41
 - 
--> "Nirvana is a 32" sloop-rigged RC sailboat. This boat comes ready-to-sail, taking about 30 minutes to rig out of the box. The sails are already on the spars. Nirvana was designed from scratch to be a scale looking, high performance, RC model sailboat.
-->
*  - One Design    16    119    207
 - 
--> One Design Sanctioned in 1995. Also called "One Design One Meter". The ODOM is based on a U.S. One Meter design. This small-sized yacht's kit must be initially purchased from the manufacturer. Sails are strictly controlled, but may be purchased or made from scratch. This one design class allows no variations. The class is managed by a class association. 39.37" long.
-->
*  - Developmental    8    29    43
 - 
--> This is where boats that don't fit in other classes register and track their growth on the way to full-fledged class status. It is also where innovation and experimentation are encouraged and permitted.
-->
*  - One Design    29    219    461
 - 
--> Sanctioned in 1997. Out of the box, Ready-to-Sail scale model of Laser. 41.75" long.
-->
 - Developmental    16    97    205
 - 
--> The RG-65 is an International development class with a 30 year history. The class rules limit only the length of the hull (65 cm), the height of the rig (110 cm) and the sail area (2250 square centimeters) 650mm long.
-->
 - One Design    9    92    154
 - 
--> The Santa Barbara is an original design expressly for model yacht racing with the classic lines of a full-size yacht. This large-sized yacht's hull and keel must be initially purchased from the manufacturer. Decks and sails are strictly controlled, but may be purchased or made from scratch. Almost all other equipment is up to the owner. 70" long.
-->
*  - One Design    16    128    273
 - 
--> One Design Class sanctioned in April 2003. The Seawind is built by One Manufacturer, and sold through many outlets. The Kyosho Seawind, Seawind SE, and Carbon Seawind model yachts are meter- long replicas of a late 1990's early 2000's America's Cup yacht. 39.37 inches (One Meter) long
-->
 - One Design    74    457    1252
 - 
Performance; Single rig allowed means lower total cost; One Design for equality of boats; Kit-Based, kits Available from two manufacturers; Wide distribution of local clubs in all AMYA Regions.

--> Sanctioned in 1993. The Soling 1 Meter is based on the full-size Olympic Soling. Specifications: 39.37" long, 8-5/8" beam, approx. 60" bottom keel to tip of mast. 10 lbs. min.
Features: Performance; Single rig allowed means lower total cost; One Design for equality of boats; Kit-Based, kits Available from two manufacturers; Wide distribution of local clubs in all AMYA Regions.
-->
*  - One Design    13    34    52
 - 
--> The Soling 50 is based on the full-size Olympic Soling. This medium-sized yacht's hull must be initially purchased from a manufacturer (See Class Page). Decks, keels, rigging, spars and sails are strictly controlled, but may be purchased or made from scratch. Almost all other equipment is up to the owner. 50" long.
-->
*  - One Design    14    109    204
 - 
--> Based on the full-sized Star Class of Olympic and International fame. Builders are allowed variability in materials but dimensions are closely controlled. 45" long.
-->
 - One Design    6    29    92
 - 
--> The T-37 is a 37 inch RC sailboat with 635.5 square inches of sail area. The hull is built of 1/8 inch mahogany plywood assembled with epoxy for a light, strong composite boat. Most T37s are built from the kit by the owners although the T37 is also available ready to sail.
-->
*  - One Design    9    52    117
 - 
--> The US12 class is a beautiful full keel, spoon bow yacht of the old America's Cup 12 meter design. She is 46 inches in length with a 16 pound minimum weight, carries a rig of 714 sq. inches of sail area, with a 55 inch hoist. Her "B" rig is 600 sq. inches.
-->
*  - Developmental    19    124    301
 - 
--> The U.S. One Meter is a small-sized development class yacht, with an appearance similar to the International One Metre yachts. This development class is restricted in overall length, sail area and several other minor measurements. The U.S. One Meter is surprisingly fast and seaworthy for its size. 39.37" long, 600 sq. inches of measured sail area with about 50 sq inches of "free area".
-->
 - One Design    3    29    65
 - 
--> Sanctioned in 2000. The 32 inch Victor Model Products V-32 Low-cost, Ready to Sail boat or kit. 32" long, 450 sq in sail area, 6.2 lbs+ displacement.
-->
 - One Design    38    194    457
 - 
--> Sanctioned in 1997. Low cost, ARS kit from Thunder Tiger modeled after the America's Cup yachts from the 1990's. 30.7" long, 433 sq in sail area, 4.5 lbs displacement.
-->
*  - Both    4    40    71
 - 
--> Our organizational goals are the preservation, building, and sailing/racing of older model yacht designs, and the study of the history of the sport of model yachting. These encompass free-sailing model yachts, older designs converted to R/C and pre-1970s R/C sailing models. There are over 450 boats registered across six classes. At the 2022 National Regatta 75 boats raced in five classes with some restored yachts approaching 100 years old.
-->
 - One Design    4    21    29
 - 
--> One Design Sanctioned in 1997. Large one-design modeled after full-size "Maxi" boats. 2000 sq. in. of sail, 30 pounds displacement and is 79" long.
-->
*

You are using an outdated browser. Upgrade your browser today or install Google Chrome Frame to better experience this site.

Model Yachts: How to Design and Build Them

Editor’s Note This is the earliest comprehensive treatment of model yachting that we have encountered. It comes from the English journal Amateur Work , a Victorian periodical with articles on arts, crafts, and some truly frightening electric devices. The article is interesting, and typical for its age, in the way it combines rules of thumb with engineering calculation.

The little thirty inch boat it describes is also typical of the era, and could easily carry radio control gear. The cutter rig is well regarded for its flexibility, and you should arrange the sails so that all but the staysail and the main can be removed in heavy air. The hull shape accommodates either strip planking or a carved hull laid up bread and butter style on the buttocks. A handsome and environmentally friendly weighted keel can be made from a brass or copper bar rather than cast lead. A traditional paint scheme would be bronze or green below the water line and black above.

Nothing is known of Arthur Hide, the author, except that he clearly was an expert.

Earl Boebert

Part I: Designing — Sheer Plan — Half-Breadth Plan — Body Plan — Centres of Gravity and Displacement

By way of preface to those readers of Amateur Work who can’t think what people can see in such “childish amusement,” I will just say, what, no doubt, they have seen pasted about in a good many streets, ”Try it” and if their first model is one that they can pit against existing ones with success, and if they can make her go where they will the first time she is put into the water, I will say they are right, it is a childish amusement; but until that is done, I must still hold on to my opinion, that model building and sailing is as scientific and amusing a hobby, combining both in and out- door pleasure, as can be found. “So, there,” as the tender sex have it. And now to work. I shall take it for granted that you know how to make a mechanical drawing, since it has been explained in this magazine, for before you can attempt any- thing in models you must draw them out.

There are three plans of a model to be drawn out. Firstly, the sheer plan; this represents a view of the boat when looking at it directly from the side, as shown in Fig. 1. Then there is the half-breadth plan, which is a view of the half of the model (Fig. 2), looking at it from underneath. And, thirdly, comes the body plan (Fig. 3), which is the view from the front on the left half of the plan, and the view from behind the model on the right half.

We must begin with the sheer plan. The shape of this depends in a great measure upon taste, but for the first model it would be better to keep to the illustration shown here. Having selected a sheet of paper, to take the full size of the model if possible, (if not you will have to draw to scale), and glued or pinned it on the board, draw at about 6 inches from the top a line right across the paper, and draw it pretty heavily, for you must work all other lines from this one. Mark this on each end L. W. L., which means load water line, and is to rep- resent the surface of the water, when the model, with all her rigging, and quite complete in fact, is stationary in the water. But, before going any further, you must determine upon the dimensions your yacht is to be. A very good size is 2 feet 6 inches over all that is to say — from stem to end of counter, and, as many model yacht clubs adhere to this size, I should, I think, follow their example. The beam, or breadth, should be about one fourth of the length. Fancy dictates here in a very great measure, as it does in a great many things in model yacht building. Some like a broad beam and some a narrow beam; but experiencia docet applies here very well, and as most probably you are without experiencia , keep to the “4 to 1” dimensions. I should therefore make her 7 inch beam, so as to keep to an even figure. Now for the depth below the water line, take about one-seventh of the length, that will make it 4 inches deep. This is merely to the bottom of the wooden part of your model, and does not include the lead keel, which will come on afterwards. For the height out of water you must study circumstances a little. You see, to make a boat look pretty, there is always a certain amount of what is called “sheer” given her—that is to say, a certain curve beginning high at the bow, falling towards the centre, and then rising again at the stern. Therefore you must have a fixed dimension for your height above water at the stem and draw in your sheer according to fancy afterwards. Then again too high a stem looks bad, and moreover is apt to hold the wind and retard the boat’s speed, whereas too low a stem does not afford sufficient support to her if she has a press of canvas on. I think about 3 inches for a 2 feet 6 inches model is very fair, and the sheer you must determine yourself, or take it from the diagram here. Now you may begin drawing out in earnest. Parallel to your load water line draw 4 lines below each other, each 1 inch apart from the other. The lower line will then represent the bottom of the keel, 4 inches below the waterline. Now draw three lines above the load waterline, also 1 inch apart. The top line would then represent the deck line if the deck were without sheer, but now simply represents the 3 inches at the bow.

These lines will represent so many planes cutting the boat parallel to the surface of the water.

The next thing to draw in is the stem, or bow; keep this about a couple of inches from the edge of your paper, and never mind, for the present, the curve at the foot. Simply draw a straight line vertical to the load water line. Now, at distances of 3 inches, draw lines parallel to the bow—that is, vertical to the load water line, to the extent of 30 inches, which will give you eleven lines, and ten spaces of 3 inches each, which will be the exact length of your model. The counter, or over- hanging part, should be about 3 inches, so draw that in to your own fancy, and consult your fancy also on the “rake,” or slope of the stern- post, which should have more or less rake to allow the rudder to swing easily, of which more hereafter.

The body plan is drawn on the extended horizontal lines of the sheer plan, and the half-breadth plan on the extended vertical lines of the same.

Now, there is one part of a ship, looking at her endways, which is larger than any other part, and, past which no other part of the vessel is visible: this is termed the “midship section,” and is represented by the outside lines in the body plan. We intend making the midship section on the line 5, which will be rather abaft the centre of the load water line. Some builders prefer a long “entrance,” which necessitates having the midship section far back; while others like a short “entrance” and a long “run,” which means hav- ing the midship section well forward, so that the bow lines converge at a greater angle than the stern lines. Now draw a centre line, XY, on the half breadth plan, and on 5 mark off from XY 3 1/2 inches, which is the half- breadth of your vessel. Above XY draw a line parallel to it, and at a distance of 1/4 inch, to represent the half-breadth of the keel, and then with a thin spline or batten draw in the deck line on the half-breadth plan to pass through the dot on 5, and fall nicely into the keel line in front, and rounded at the stern for the counter. You had, for the present, better keep as near as possible to the diagram shown here; but when you get a little more accustomed to drawing in these curves you will be able to judge for yourself if a line is what, in shipbuilding parlance, they call “pretty.” Leave the half- breadth plan for a’ little while, and on the body plan draw a vertical centre line, O O, and on each side of it draw lines at 1/4 in. distant, and parallel to it, to represent the keel. One part of this body plan, you must remember, is the forepart of the vessel, and the other half the after part. Now on the load water line, still in the body plan, on each side of the centre line mark off 3 1/2 inches, which is half the beam, and, starting from this point, draw in by hand a curve somewhat similar to the one in the diagram, and see that there are no “lumps” in it, and that it falls nicely into the straight line of the keel at the bottom. Having rubbed this out and put it in again several times till satisfactory, rub it nearly out once more, and put in definitely with curves, so that you have a definite spot where the curve crosses each horizon- tal section. Do this on each side of the centre line O O. Go back again to the half-breadth plan, and with your dividers mark off on 5 from XY the places where the midship section, which you have just drawn in, cuts each of the horizontal sections—that is to say, the distances from O O to C, to E, to G, to K, to M, and to P.Through these points, or rather through the point G firstly (which is the load waterline), draw a curve to the bow, and to line 9, taking care to make it fall nicely into the straight of the stem and stern posts, the thicknesses of which are represented by the line above XY. You must be particularly careful to draw this curve in nicely since all the other lines are worked from it, and let me impress on you that india-rubber is, in the present state of the market, a cheap article, therefore you need not be afraid of wasting it by rubbing the line out again, if not to your fancy. There must be no “lumps” in the curve, and no sudden rise or fall; it must all be gradual. To find out if the line is “fair,” you need only look along it, with your eye nearly on a level with the paper, and any little inaccuracies will at once become perceptible. Having “faired” this to your satisfaction, mark off from O O (in the body plan), on the line G (the load water line), the respective distances from X Y (in the half-breadth plan), to the points where the curve, which you have just drawn in, cuts the lines 4, 3, 2, 1. Treat the after part of the load water line in the same manner, but mark it off on the right-hand side of the body plan.

Now draw in the other curves in the half-breadth plan through the points already marked on 5, trying to keep them as little hollow as possible. These lines you must simply guess at to begin with, but after a little practice your eye will tell you very nearly where to draw them in. After this is done, mark off from O O on C, E, G, K, M, and P, the distances from X Y, along 4, to where the curves C, E, G, K, M, and P, respectively cross 4. Through the points thus obtained draw a curve, and if the curve thus drawn falls in nicely, with- out lumps or kinks, your lines in the half-breadth plan will be pretty nearly right. Treat the lines 3, 2, 1, on to the left-hand side of the body plan, and 6, 7, 8, 9, on to the right-hand side, in the same way, and if each curve comes in nicely your lines will be right; if they do not fall in well, you will have to alter the “waterlines,” as they are termed, in the half-breadth plan, until the body lines can be faired easily.

It will, I am sure, entail a good deal of rubbing out and putting in again, before your lines will come right, but do not be afraid of that, since it makes your work much easier when you come to the wood-working part of the business, and do not say to yourself, “Oh! bother it, I can’t get that right on the drawing, but it will come in all square in the wood.” It is a fallacy, I can assure you; you would never have been more mistaken than when you said that. If your drawing is not correct, your wood-work cannot be correct, and therefore you will be guessing at things all through the job, instead of having everything down on paper in a respectable manner. So put that notion out of your head, and say it must come right in the drawing, and when it is right you will be a great deal more satisfied with yourself, I am sure.

You have not yet, by the bye, drawn in on the body plan, the sheer, therefore measure off the heights from the load water line to the sheer in the sheer plan on the various lines, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc., and mark them off on their corresponding lines in the body plan, and the distances from O O to 1, 2, 3, etc.; you will take, of course, from X Y, in the half-breadth plan, to the deck line along 1, 2, 3, etc., there. Having joined the points thus obtained with a nice curve, I think your drawing is finished. The keel you can only put in afterwards, when you know the weight of lead your boat will carry, which will be more or less, according as you have made your lines “fuller” or “finer.”

In the next paper, then, I shall begin with the building of the model; but before we come to that, a few words on the shape of models would not be out of place. Models must be considered as racing yachts, and, therefore, unlike merchant vessels, carrying power, or rather “cargo space,” is no object. The great thing in models is to get your lines as nice as possible, and, to my own idea, the less hollow a line the better it is. Then again, as I said before, some like the midship section for- ward of the half-length of the boat, while others, myself included, prefer it abaft.

It appears to me that, considering a vessel is nothing more or less than a wedge driven through the water, the smaller angle that wedge has the easier it will separate the particles of water with a given driving power; and then, again, as water will close up again more easily than it will be separated, so the quicker the lines in the stern con- verge, the better, to a certain extent. In both these, as in every other case, excess is not meant, and you must, therefore, not make too long an “entrance” or too short a “run.”

With regard to the proportion of beam to length, there are one or two points to be considered before deciding this matter. Firstly, beam gives a vessel greater carrying power, and, to a certain extent, greater “stability” (by stability is meant the power a vessel has of resisting any force which tends to press it over on its side, when in the water, of course) —or, I should rather say, greater “stiffness.” A broad and shallow vessel is “stiffer” up to a certain angle of inclination than a narrow and deep boat, but press both over to that angle and you will find that past that point the broad vessel will perhaps capsize easily, whereas it will be impossible to capsize the narrow but deep one, since she will always right herself again. Now this is easily explained when you know that there are two very important points, or “centres,” in a ship: the one known as the “centre of displacement,” which is in reality the centre of gravity of the mass of water which the ship “dis- places,” or takes the place of, when she is put into the water i and the other the “centre of gravity” of the ship itself. When a ship heels over you can readily see that her centre of displacement will shift, because the shape of the water she displaces alters as her own shape differs under water, according to the various angles of inclination. Therefore in a shallow ship, where the centres of gravity and displacement are close together, the centre of displacement has to shift very little to cause the vessel to capsize; but in a deep boat it has to shift a great deal, since the two centres are further apart. So, then, in a model you must com- bine the qualities of a broad vessel and a deep one; but take care not to get her too broad, because the lines will not be fine enough in that case, nor must she be too deep, since the more surface a boat has in the water the greater is the resistance caused by the friction of the water on her sides to her headway.

I am afraid space will not permit me to say more about designing, but practice will assist you more than anything else, and if you can reason a few points out for yourself, so much the better. About the centres I shall have more to say further on, when we come to building.

Part II  The Hull — Materials — “Dug Out” Mode of Building — Block — Hollowing Out Sections — Layer Method — Adjustment of Pieces– Marking Off Water Lines — Roughing Out — Gluing Layers — Deck — Keel >>

Model Boat Plans

Good model boat plans can be hard to find. i have listed maritime books, vendors, websites and model boat magazines that include line plans, drawings and blueprints for model boat and ship building..

Model boat plans are harder to come by than you would think. In all my years of model boat building I've never stopped looking for sources of decent plans. I’ve been happily surprised a number of times and disappointed at least just as often.

In an effort to help other hobbyists I've decided to list sources that I think could be useful. How useful will depend on your interest as most sources are pretty specific to an era or narrow subject - sometimes just a single ship. I've tried to add comments to help your determine if a book or plan is worth your time and money.

The Model Boat Plans Store

First, some shameless self-promotion. I'm now offering plans for sale in the store section (use link above). The plans are either CAD generated in PDF format or scanned and carefully edited to enhance the print quality. In either case they are offered at very competitive prices. The best part is that you download them directly onto your computer and print them at home or at your local copy store. Easy as pie as they say. Here is more information on printing PDF plans .

Free Model Boat Plans

This page is a list of websites that offer free model boat and ship plans. I’ve made no effort in distinguishing quality of the plans or difficulty in building a model from them. Some of these plans show model construction, which should make it easier for a beginner to complete.

To qualify to this list the ship plan must have all information necessary to finish at least a hull, as best I can tell.

Please Remember:  Beggars can’t be choosers, so be grateful these webmasters have made these plans available for free. On the other hand, some sites use "free" to draw in traffic, which is pretty cheesy in my opinion. The listed sources are free and, from what I can tell, offer a good product.

Maritime Books

All the maritime books listed has been selected with model boat builders in mind. Many has useful ship plans and other illustrations and photographs that make up great references.

Books with plans can be used directly or to draw up your own plans. Be warned though, books in general are relatively small and can pose problems when enlarging or scanning. Inclusion on this list has more to do with the fact that hull lines are present – not the quality of the print.

Speaking of quality of print – many books have been reprinted in several editions sometimes over centuries, as with the Architectura Navalis Mercatoria .

It is not uncommon that later editions have deteriorated print quality and in some cases the size of the book itself has gotten smaller. So as a general rule, if there is an opportunity, I’d advise you get the older edition even if the condition of the book may be less appealing.

Model Ship Books

These are books geared to builders, usually with "how-to" instructions and often plans. The model boat plans that come this way are either printed in the book itself or as a separate attachment. Having the plan separate is best in my opinion. Unfortunately, they are often printed on poor quality paper and are often folded.

Sometimes you can save big money by buying these books second-hand. Be warned though, in the case of plans being provided as a separate attachment, as they may go missing.

Model Ship Plans

All model boat plans were not created equal. The print may be fuzzy or too light to be legible, incomplete, lines not being true.

Sometimes you think you are getting a plan for a historic ship that, as it turned out, never existed!

In a nutshell, it is all too easy to be disappointed after spending $50 to $100 on a ship plan. Find out how you can minimize the risk of getting disappointed.

Model Boat Magazines

Some magazines include free plans in some editions. This is hit and miss. Don’t subscribe to a magazine hoping you’ll get a free plan you can build from. If you do, it may take years before one you like will show up. Magazines can be good for inspiration, reviews and to gain from other people’s experience. The magazines I've included come with model boat plans on occasion.

Return to Homepage

Facebook Twitter

Would you prefer to share this page with others by linking to it?

• Click on the HTML link code below.
• Copy and paste it, adding a note of your own, into your blog, a Web page, forums, a blog comment, your Facebook account, or anywhere that someone would find this page valuable.
• Plans Store
• Model Boat Books
• Model Boats Intro
• Building Materials
• Make a Hull
• Plastic Kits

Radio Control

• US Battleships
• Torpedo Boats
• Model Boats Q&A
• Model Ship Gallery
• What's New?
• Privacy Policy

By  Petter Blix 

Copyright 2009-2018 Building-Model-Boats.com

Trademarks belong to their respective owners

All Rights Reserved

BoatNews.com

Free model boat plans: the MiniX, an easy-to-build radio-controlled sailboat

We set ourselves a challenge: to make a sailing model. In the end, after hours of reflection and work, we discovered that we took as much pleasure in designing and building as we did sailing our yachts. Here is the description of our project and the plans to download. Another article follows with the steps of the realization.

An easy-to-build, eye-catching, high-performance sailboat

Who hasn't dreamed of a little wooden sailboat with a beautiful canvas cover? The idea for this project is a child's dream.

Sailing on a regular basis in "scale 1", we had the idea of having fun by sailing two boats to race in our "spare time". The boats had to meet the following specifications:

• Easy to transport . Measuring just 50 cm, our MiniX doesn't take up much space in a trunk. However, the keel and mast can be dismantled. If need be, the MiniX can even be included in our vacation luggage.
• Able to be thrown into the water "out the back of the car" without complicated implementation.
• No investment that would jeopardize our homes. As this is not a one-off activity, we didn't want to invest in expensive radio controls (our boat's biggest expense). A basic radio control kit is powerful enough to handle "small" sail surfaces.
• Resembling a sailboat at best, hence the presence of the deckhouse and cockpit. These two elements give a sense of scale without resorting to model-building. Above all, a sailboat must be beautiful. Don't we also sail for the pleasure of our eyes?

Modern construction

To keep it light (ready to sail , the MiniX weighs just 800 g), the hull is an extruded polystyrene/epoxy resin sandwich (laminated Depron). While this process is not impact-resistant (though...), the structure and sandwich make it very rigid. Together with the deck, the whole thing forms a kind of egg whose strength is astonishing. It's impossible to apply the slightest twist to the hull, despite its lightness (the bare hull weighs just 260 g).

Our yacht has a chine hull. But this doesn't detract from the look, as the chines are largely rounded and, combined with the straight bow, give the illusion of a beautifully shaped hull. When sailing close-hauled, the stern of the MiniX lifts off, limiting drag in the water.

Technical data

• Overall length (with rudder): 56 cm
• Hull length: 51 cm
• Width: 17.6 cm
• Draft: 25 cm (but this may change...)
• Air draft: 92 cm (mast: 86 cm)
• Operating weight (with sails, servos, batteries and keel ): 800 g
• Bare hull weight (without servos and keel ): 260 g
• Weight of ballast: 240 g (but may vary according to draught...)
• Wing surfaces: Jib= 6 dm² GV= 15 dm²

MiniX drawings

You can download the plans. They're simple and precise. We made our two boats by printing them on a basic A4 printer. Then we simply assembled the sheets by superimposing them and gluing them (repositionable spray glue) to Depron. A sharp cutter is all it takes to build the MiniX with precision.

Just one thing: we've put a lot of heart and soul into building this yacht. We'd be delighted if our experience could be put to good use. Don't hesitate, help yourself! But be so kind as to let us know with a little comment. We'd love to hear from you.

Here you can download the first part of the plan in A4 PDF format .

With this you already have the complete boat. Based on the construction photos, there's not much missing to build the whole MiniX. But since we're taking care of you, here are the sail plans too:

• Mainsail plan

Real sails with webs for their shape.

The construction budget

MiniX doesn't have to be expensive. We've always tried to find a way of "diverting" objects to make our project a reality. So it's hard to come up with an exact budget. It will be higher for someone who doesn't even own the basic tools , and much lower for someone who does it in the back of his already well-stocked workshop.

• 6 mm Depron sheet (2 sheets, 125 x 60 cm)
• Epoxy resin + fillers
• Glass fabric
• 4 mm plywood (a small piece for the keel , keel shaft and rudder)
• Carbon tubes (6 mm for the mast and 4 mm for the booms)
• GV carbon batten (1/10 mm in kite stores)
• Remote control servos kit ( first price: ?60)
• Florist paper for the sails (a good opportunity to give pleasure...)
• Blenderm (surgical tape), available from chemists, to join the sails. Cut the 20 mm roll in half to double its length.

In the end, we estimate a maximum budget of ?120 per boat (calculated in 2021).

Because a construction project like MiniX is above all a team project... And in a team it's good to be complementary.

The MiniX project went through a long phase of gestation - reflection - intellectualization - drawings - exchanges - helping hands to get to this stage. Today, it's sailing thanks to this pooling of skills. We hope you'll enjoy this project as much as we have. And we look forward to hearing from you in the comments or on the forum. Enjoy!

• Create Account

Free Shipping U.S.A and Canada | Small charge for international

Model Boat Plans

Explore Model Boat Plans

Vintage Model Plans

Explore Vintage Model Plans Products

Shop By Collections

Most Popular Products

Scale Cannon and Firearms Plans

Explore Scale Cannon collection

About Vintage Model Plans

We have been on eBay for Nine years Please bear with us while we get this site complete.

Thank you James & Rose

PROFILE CONTROL LINE AIRPLANE PLANS

MODEL AIRPLANE GLIDERS

Explore Gliders Products

Collection list

© 2024, Vintage Model Plans . All rights reserved.

• American Express
• Diners Club
• Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.
• Press the space key then arrow keys to make a selection.
• Use left/right arrows to navigate the slideshow or swipe left/right if using a mobile device

The 7 Best RC Boats for Racing Around Lakes, Riding Upstream, and Ripping Through Waves

Like sailing or speedboating, but tiny.

Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. Why Trust Us?

RC boats come in lots of shapes, sizes, and styles, but the best models can shred water from afar without becoming sinking ships. We’ve rounded up the best remote-control boats for beach visits, lakefront races, poolside entertainment, and some advice on picking the best RC boat for you.

Stay in play and check out our picks for the best magnetic toys , remote-control trucks , and remote-control planes .

The Best RC Boats

• Best Overall: ALPHAREV RC Boat with Case R308
• Best for Beginners: DEERC RC Boat with LED Light
• Most Well-Rounded: Altair Aerial AA102 RC Boat
• Best Value: Force1 Velocity H102
• Best Sailboat: PLAYSTEAM Voyager 400 RC Sailboat

What to Consider

While you can likely get away with using a larger RC boat on a pond or lake, you may want to stick to a smaller model if you’ll be floating yours in a backyard swimming pool or need to pack something tiny. RC boats can be up to two feet long, so make sure to consider the journey to the water, too, especially if the boat you’re eyeing doesn’t come with a carrying case.

Weight and Speed

The RC boat’s weight helps determine how fast it can move. Heavier boats are better equipped to move at high speeds without capsizing, whereas lighter boats can be speedy using less power, a.k.a., slower acceleration. Think of it like torque on a car (or a full-sized boat, for that matter)—the more power the boat gets from the battery, electric, or gas motor, the faster it can accelerate.

Speed is also dependent on the type of hull—some boats are shaped for optimal turning and curves, while others are built for picking up speed while driving in a straight line.

The priciest models can reach speeds of up to 50 miles per hour. We mostly recommend recreational, battery-powered RC boats that reach speeds up to 30 miles per hour, since the more powerful, expensive models are meant for hardcore hobbyists and professional racers.

Capsize Recovery

Many RC boats have anti-capsize, or capsize recovery, functionality to prevent them from flipping over (and staying overturned). Flipping an RC boat is extremely easy, especially if you lack experience, and can lead to a sinking ship. If you’re new to RC boating, consider grabbing one with capsize recovery, making your boat rebalance and flip back over if it tips.

How We Selected

We researched each model’s speed, customer rating, durability, and unique features. We also consulted buying guides from several top hobbyist publications. We’ve picked options for every type of RC boat customer, whether you’re a casual hobbyist, buying a first boat for your kids, or you’re a dedicated RC enthusiast.

ALPHAREV RC Boat with Case R308

This boat features capsize recovery, so if it tips over or gets hit by a wave, it’ll flip back over to recover. It also has LED lights installed to make it easy to see when it’s dark. Thanks to the autopilot mode that loops the boat into a figure-eight shape, children can easily use it, too.

The R308 comes with two batteries and a charger, with users reporting approximately 20 minutes of power (counting both batteries) when operating the boat at full speed. It has a 400-foot signal range for distance driving and tops at 20 miles per hour. With its carry case, the R308 is a solid RC boat for most users.

Dimensions	15.86 x 9.13 x 5.31 in.
Weight	8 oz.
Speed	20+ mph

DEERC RC Boat with LED Light

This is an excellent option for anyone eager to get into RC boating but unsure of their prowess on the water. It features two autopilot modes, so there’s plenty of opportunity to learn how to use it. It also has an extended playtime of 30 minutes, giving you plenty of time to practice.

With features like capsize recovery, double hatch design, and low-battery and signal alarms, this boat is pretty much goof proof, making it the perfect boat for beginners on their way to becoming enthusiasts.

Dimensions	15.98 x 7.44 x 6.77 in.
Weight	2.03 lbs.
Speed	20+ mph

Altair Aerial AA102 RC Boat

If you need a well-rounded RC boat, this one has ample protection, zippy speeds, and excellent customer service, all in one attractive package. Its anti-capsize feature prevents it from tipping over, while several users say its nose bumper saved their boats from getting totaled through crashing.

It has an extra battery for more playtime, and several users say it provides up to 20 minutes of action after swapping it. Users who experienced issues with their boats were able to find replacement parts and products thanks to the company’s customer service help. Others say that it’s a terrific value, though the lack of a carry case is disappointing.

Dimensions	17.32 x 10.12 x 5.98 in.
Weight	1.38 lbs.
Speed	18 mph

Force1 Velocity H102

This boat reaches speeds of 20-plus miles per hour, making it great for anyone who wants their toy to fly on the water. This boat features a capsize recovery mode, a water-cooled engine, and a double-hatched body, making it easier to control on waves. The charge time is a little long, three to four hours, but it can ride for up to 15 minutes at full power.

Customers say this boat reaches top speed fairly quickly, though some report that the controller is difficult to use and not very responsive. Still, it handles well on the water and is a super speedy boat.

Dimensions	10.85 x 2.75 x 2 in.
Weight	5.9 oz.
Speed	20+ mph

PLAYSTEAM Voyager 400 RC Sailboat

If sailing is your preference, the Voyager 400 is the way to go. Rather than rely on an electric motor to push it forward, the Voyager 400 can sail in any body of water via wind power. Its remote controls the rudder and the propulsion, and just in case wind isn’t in the forecast, it comes with a detachable motor to help propel it.

Customers say it’s easy to use, and everything is sealed to keep interior components dry when it tips over. Its rechargeable remote battery can work for up to one hour, which puts most RC speedboats to shame. A drawback, however, is that if it gets stuck at sea without the motor attached, you’ll have to wait for it to wash ashore.

Dimensions	27.25 x 17 x 5.25 in.
Weight	1.34 lbs.
Speed	N/A

Cheerwing RC Racing Boat

Cheerwing RC boats are fantastic if you’re looking for an affordable toy to race with your friends. This boat can hit up to 15 miles per hour and has some great features, including capsize recovery and automatic yaw correction, which rebalances your boat. It also signals when the battery is low or starts to lose signal, giving you peace of mind.

If you want to try RC boating without spending much, this is a solid buy. Its biggest downside is in its battery life—just six to eight minutes per charge—and it doesn’t come with the option to buy a second battery, so it requires frequent recharging.

Dimensions	13.5 x 3.5 x 3.5 in.
Weight	11.4 oz.
Speed	15 mph

VOLANTEXRC Brushless RC Boat

If you need speed and don’t mind investing more money into your hobby, this boat is fantastic. The fastest model on this list, this boat has a top speed of 40 miles per hour, a range of up to 656 feet, and a water-cooled system that prevents the motor from overheating.

It also has safety features to prevent damage from the high speeds, like waterproofing and a one-piece hull to prevent cracks.

The biggest flaw is its lack of capsize recovery, and several users say their boats flipped in action, causing them to swim out to retrieve their toys. It also only comes with one battery.

Dimensions	27.56 x 7.48 x 5.31 in.
Weight	5.39 lbs.
Speed	40 mph

Kevin Cortez is an editor for Runner's World, Bicycling, and Popular Mechanics covering reviews. A culture and product journalist for over ten years, he’s an expert in men’s style, technology, gaming, coffee, e-bikes, hiking, gear, and all things outdoors. He most recently worked as the Style Editor for Reviewed, a top product recommendation site owned by USA TODAY. He also helped with the launch of WSJ's Buy Side commerce vertical, and has covered the music and podcast industries for Mass Appeal, Genius, Vulture, Leafly, Input, and The A.V. Club. Equally passionate about leisure as he is his penmanship, Kevin dedicates his spare time to graphic novels, birding, making cold brew, and taking long, meandering walks.

.css-cuqpxl:before{padding-right:0.3125rem;content:'//';display:inline;} Toys .css-xtujxj:before{padding-left:0.3125rem;content:'//';display:inline;}

Prime Day Lego Deals 2024

The 40 Best Car Toys for Kids in 2024

The 8 Best Rubik’s Cubes for Fun and Frustration

The Best 3D Brain Teaser Puzzles

The 9 Best Robotics Kits for Kids

The 11 Best Nerf Guns

The Best Lego Building Accessories

Black Friday Lego Deals 2023: Save on Every Set

The Best Kids’ Electric Cars

The Best Remote Control Toys

The Best Lego Advent Calendars for 2023

Model Yacht Design: Pushing the Limits with Racing Sparrow

The world of model yacht design is one of innovation, precision, and creativity. It offers a canvas for experimentation, where hobbyists and professionals alike can reimagine what is possible within the confines of design and physics. The Racing Sparrow, a DIY RC yacht encourages builders to push their creativity to the limits. Check out the links throughout the article.

This article aims to explore a few innovative ideas that you can incorporate into your Racing Sparrow build. With a length of 750mm and a monohull design, the Racing Sparrow is a great starting point for those looking to spice up their build. Below are some ideas to inspire your next project:

Twin Rudder

A twin rudder setup can greatly improve the yacht's agility and responsiveness, especially in windy conditions. By having two rudders, the yacht gets additional surface area for turning, allowing for sharper and more controlled manoeuvres . Read this cool build article for twin rudders.

Canting Keels

A game-changer in yacht design, canting keels offer a dynamic approach to stability and speed. By allowing the keel to pivot, you can counteract the forces of the wind, keeping the yacht upright with larger sails. This results in increased speed and enhanced performance in diverse sailing conditions. Take a look at this canting keel Racing Sparrow forum topic.

Winged Keel

A winged keel is a modern twist on the traditional keel design. By adding wings to the keel, the yacht can achieve greater lateral resistance, which can improve stability and speed.

Stayless Mast

By opting for a stayless mast, you're making a bold statement in design and functionality. A stayless mast can give your yacht a sleek, uncluttered appearance, while also reducing the weight and complexity of the rigging. Here is a cool article of a shroudless Racing Sparrow.  A stayless rig has a lot less drag also. A very fast option.

Fixed Wing Sails

Taking inspiration from the world of aviation, fixed wing sails can transform your yacht into a state-of-the-art racing machine. Unlike traditional sails, fixed wing sails act more like airplane wings, producing lift and allowing for impressive speeds.

Catamaran Hulls

Why stick to a monohull when you can double the fun? Catamaran hulls can give your Racing Sparrow added stability, speed, and a unique appearance. The skinny twin hulls produce less drag. If you can keep a catamaran from capsizing it will go very fast. There also is no lead bulb. The power to weight ratio is high. These things are rocketships!

Upscale to 2 Metres

For those who believe that bigger is better, consider upscaling your Racing Sparrow to a staggering 2 metres in length. This not only provides a grander appearance but also allows for more room to incorporate other design ideas.

The Racing Sparrow model yacht is more than just a hobby—it's an invitation to innovate. By experimenting with these design ideas, you can create a yacht that is not only visually captivating but also a marvel in performance. So, pick up your tools, let your creativity run wild, and sail towards uncharted waters!

• Recent Orders

• Free Delivery Over £100 UK Mainland
• Join our CMB Club - Get 5% Off
• Here to help on 01840 211009

Model Boat Builders Plans: One Metre Class Yacht Plans

The International One Metre boats are light, responsive and fun to sail. The class rule is ‘closed’ and many aspects of design, materials and construction are restricted in an attempt to promote close competition. However the rule is designed to allow the DIY enthusiast some freedom to construct an inexpensive and competitive boat. The important speed related criteria of length, draught, displacement and sail plan are limited to a maximum of 1000mm, 420mm, 4kg and 3 prescribed rigs. Please Note: These plans are printed to order and take approximately 7 days for us to obtain.

Fe Fe 2 Model Boat Plan

Why Not? Model Boat Plan

Imiction Model Boat Plan

Little Wing Model Boat Plan

Simplet Model Boat Plan

Boxkite Model Boat Plan

Fireblade Model Boat Plan

Nimbus Mk3 Model Boat Plan

Rhythm Model Boat Plan

Featured products.

Best Sellers

RRP 2.94 You Save £0.44

RRP 2.75 You Save £0.42

New products.

Recently Viewed

Please select next action

Go back ( or ) Go to wish list