sailboat racing start sequence

• Yachting World
• Digital Edition

Race countdown: How to time the starting sequence perfectly

• September 23, 2019

Crossing the start line at the right time and maximum speed can be the key to winning a race. Mike Broughton explains how it’s done

Yachts approach the start line of the 2017 Fastnet Race. Photo: Carlo Borlenghi / Rolex

Starting a yacht at the right end of the line at target speed is very much a team game. On boats longer than 40ft, vital input comes from the bow person, trimmers, helmsman, tactician and navigator.

The role of the navigator has evolved in recent years to assist the tactician and helmsman by utilising navigation software to help the timed run into the start. Before the start of any competitive race fleet we now see over 90% of the fleet ‘pinging the ends’ of the line – GPS positioning helps us work out where the start line is and how far away we are at any moment.

We can now do the same with a modern sports watch with a GPS interface. However, to start a boat like a TP52 , there is a little more to it than just GPS positioning then using course and speed over the ground; but even this information can be very useful – particularly with long start lines.

I’ve been using software to help start races since I first discovered Deckman in 1989. It was developed to aid America’s Cup starting, but in those days many crew were pretty sceptical about its merits.

To work out our sailing time to the start line, the software needs to know our boat’s polars (how fast we will sail compared to true wind speed and true wind angle). One factor we need to refine is that normally we are not able to sail at 100% polar speed in the run into the start line as we have other yachts in close proximity and more ‘dirty air’ to deal with.

Simplified version of the B&G data for the two minutes pre-start on Y3K , showing time, distance to the line and boat speed as a percentage of polars

The solution is to use separate start polars and here I tend to reduce the normal optimum upwind boat speed target by about 12-15%. I also reduce the downwind polar speeds as we don’t usually have a spinnaker when downwind sailing pre-start.

For working out our time to the line, we also need to know the tidal stream or current. Some software will try to factor it in for you, but with a lot of manoeuvring it can easily give erroneous readings and it can be best to dial it into the software manually just for the start. A good habit is always to check the current on the start boat and pin end as you ‘ping’ their positions.

If the calibration of our sailing instruments is awry it can generate big errors in the software predicted ‘time to the line’, which is exacerbated if you need to tack or gybe prior to your final run-in. Instruments often take up to 45 seconds to settle down after a manoeuvre.

Quicker systems with high-speed GPS all help, but most software has a ‘t’ feature that allows the navigator to ‘hold’ or freeze the wind while turning. A useful tip here can be to just call boat lengths to the line while turning.

For good reasons, we sometimes slow the yacht down, then ‘pull the trigger’ or increase speed in the approach. Few racing software packages can handle yacht acceleration, and the afterguard need to be aware of that.

Once we have pinged both ends of the start line, we can instantly see the line bias, but that is only true for that moment. My tip here is to give the ‘square line’ bearing and compare that with the mean true wind direction over the last five minutes. It is always worth double-checking the line bearing with a hand-bearing compass as you get the line transits (a shoreline object that you can line up with the pin or buoy end).

Helping to work out where the layline to each end of the line is a useful feature of starting software. With a couple of practices you can often then identify another transit to help you quickly find that layline in the heat of the battle.

Using a countdown in boat lengths to the layline helps the tactician a great deal, particularly in placing your yacht relative to another already approaching the start line. When sailing in current you preferably need to know the ‘tidally adjusted layline’ transit.

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It is usually a matter of the tactician’s preference whether to call ‘sailing time to the line’ or ‘time to burn’ and whether you are factoring in the time for a tack or gybe if required. My view is to switch to ‘time to burn’ from 2 minutes 30 seconds to go, though you need to specify ‘time to burn’ to the start line and your preferred start end.

Larger and heavier yachts really don’t want to be manoeuvring in the last 45 seconds prior to the start. So helping find the correct turn in is vital. One of the best yachts at starting I have raced on is the J Class yacht Velsheda , which weighs in at 143 tonnes.

The team never likes to have to alter course in the last minute as they start building speed. On a 140ft boat they use headsets for communication and the bowman has a key input in the last 30 seconds when it comes to calling the time to burn.

With practice, the crew can learn to have good confidence in the navigator’s calls using software, but it’s vital also to cross-check those calls with reality. This is particularly important in light and shifty conditions. Here you have to remember the software can’t see that shift that is 50m away from the boat. In light winds it is a useful to focus more on boat lengths to the start line (also when in the middle of a tack).

About the expert

Mike Broughton is a pro race navigator who has won many titles including World and European championships. He is a qualified MCA Master to captain superyachts and previously had a successful career in the Fleet Air Arm flying Sea King and Lynx helicopters.

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Sailboat Racing Starts Done Right

• By Greg Fisher
• Updated: August 11, 2020

A boat that gets off the ­ starting line in a good position and has good upwind speed is probably going to be near the top of the fleet at the first weather mark. That’s easy to say but challenging to do, especially the starting part. However, if you learn to follow a script or plan that makes the starting routine mechanical, you’ll discover that each start becomes better, and your starts, overall, become more consistent. The good news is that plan can be followed wherever you start on the line and whatever the breeze.

How do you know when you’ve managed a good start? Simply put, you’ve gotten off the line in the front row with competitive speed so you can take advantage of the first shift. It’s cool to be able to blast off the line with a boatlength or two lead and have the fleet over your shoulder. But even just one boat hanging on your weather hip eliminates your opportunity to tack on the first header and, as a result, a good start is wasted.

Determine Where to Start

The race committee’s goal is to set a line basically perpendicular to the wind so that no single boat has an advantage, regardless of where it starts. However, the wind almost always shifts, and seemingly does so at the last minute. If the line is fairly short and/or one end is favored by 5 degrees or less, starting in the middle becomes an excellent choice, giving a conservative starter the opportunity to take advantage of a shift from either side of the course. The fastest ­college ­sailors often start near the middle of the line, knowing that they can protect the left side of the course or tack and consolidate the right.

However, in big fleets—50 boats or more—or on a line where one end is heavily favored, say, 15 to 20 degrees, then starting closer to the favored end becomes more advantageous. I emphasize closer , as it can be risky to start right at the favored end because everyone’s trying to start there. Starting a third of the way up or down from the favored end is much less risky and can make it easier to get off the line.

Remember, the angle of the wind relative to the starting line determines which end is favored, and unless the course to the first mark is way off square to the wind or the starting line is skewed by more than 30 degrees, the course to the first mark shouldn’t have any effect on where you start.

Follow Your Pre-start Checklist

While there are several ­different methods in checking which end is favored, unless I am sailing in a small fleet or on a small inland lake, I use the compass. If the line is short and the fleet is small, head into the wind and note which end of the line the bow points closer toward. That’s the favored end. On longer lines with more boats and in more-extreme ­conditions (very light or very heavy winds), the ­compass is much more accurate. Take a compass heading while sailing down the line and compare it to your head-to-wind reading. If more or less than 90 degrees (which tells us if the line is square), not only will you know which end is favored, but also how much it’s favored. In addition, once you have the line compass bearing, you can double check which end is favored anytime, anywhere (and away from all the traffic on the line) just by ­heading into the wind.

If you have GPS technology, ping the ends of the line once the line is set. Luff head-to-wind, close to the committee boat, moving very slowly so it’s easy to get a good reference. At the leeward end, set up outside the line, again head-to-wind and moving slowly, where it’s easy to gauge exactly when on the line. Once you have confidence in your pings lining up, managing the last minute becomes much easier.

I focus on one approach for every start. Therefore, I know exactly how I’ll set up, no matter where I want to be on the line. The only variable becomes the timing.

Without a GPS (and to ­double check your GPS settings), rely on line sights. Start at the weather end, on starboard tack, closehauled, loosely trimmed and moving slowly, four to five boatlengths below the line. Start taking line sights with something onshore through the leeward end of the line. Ideally, you’ll have one at four to five lengths, three lengths and two lengths off the line, as well as the final shot right down line. Those early “safe” line sights are crucial in gauging the speed and timing to the line, because invariably the sights down the actual line become tough to maintain in the last 10 seconds, when the fleet is lined up. Sometimes a line sight to weather through the committee boat by the forward crew can be a valuable check in the last 10 to 15 seconds.

Check for current at all spots on the line, recognizing that there could be current at different speeds and different angles at each end. Practice the laylines at each end to gain confidence in the approach angle to the line, and especially where you ideally would want to start. Finally, practice your actual maneuverability and the speed required to maintain control of your boat. It’s important be able to recognize when you are too slow to be able to head up or bear off, even when using your sails to help control the boat.

Own Your Final Approach

While many sailors develop a series of different approaches to draw on for starts in different conditions in different size fleets and for different positions on the line, I focus on one approach for every start. Therefore, I know exactly how I’ll set up, no matter where I want to be on the line. The only variable becomes the timing. The two most common approaches are starboard luffing, where boats line up several lengths below the line several minutes before the start, and the port-tack approach, which is my favorite.

With the port-tack approach, come in a boatlength or two below the bulk of the fleet; most boats will be luffing on starboard. Depending on the breeze, the waves and the size of the fleet, I’ll look for and then tack into a hole on the line close to one minute before the start, depending on the conditions and fleet lineup. In some ways, this approach might seem risky because you’re sailing on port tack toward a group of starboard tackers. However, remember that one of the most important goals of the starboard tack boats is to develop a hole to leeward. If this hole is big enough and left open, it’s an open invitation for a port tacker.

One of the keys to a ­successful port-tack approach is the tack into the vacant hole. This tack should be slow and controlled so that once around and onto starboard, your bow will be slightly behind that of the boat to weather. Speed after the tack should be slow so that you are immediately in a position to become the leeward controlling boat. Leave yourself the opportunity to accelerate and not be dangerously close to the line. This is one of the major differences between the starboard and port-tack approaches. During the port-tack approach, you are attacking the starboard boat’s position, while those using the starboard approach are usually trying to defend.

If you’re the approaching port-tack boat, you must sail all the way through the tack and onto your starboard closehauled course before you can assume your new, leeward boat rights. And you must give the weather boat room and time to fulfill its new obligation to keep clear. Once the port tacker has completed his tack to starboard, the now windward starboard tack boat must begin to keep clear and assume the port tacker has now become the leeward boat with rights.

What if there isn’t a hole at the spot where you want to tack? In that case, you probably wouldn’t want to start in that pileup of boats anyway. Instead, sail down the line a bit farther until a more inviting hole ­presents itself.

Obviously, the starboard-tack boat will not just sit and wave you on into the hole they have been working hard to create. They should defend by bearing off toward you as you approach. If the hole is small, or the tack from port to starboard becomes rushed, the port tacker most likely will become discouraged with that spot and sail up the line looking for the next hole.

Once you know how you’ll approach the line, the remaining variable is timing. Ideally, you’ve practiced your timing in that five or 10 minutes before the start. When I set up with the port-tack approach, I determine how long it takes to get from the leeward end pin to my spot of choice on the line, unless the line is super long. I sail back and forth several times in order to determine how long it takes, and then add 10 to 15˛seconds for the tack. Usually, I try to complete the tack onto starboard by 55 to 60 seconds before the start, depending on the breeze and the size of the fleet—the lighter the breeze, the lumpier the wave state; the larger the fleet, the earlier the tack. If we know it takes 40 seconds to get to that spot, we’d leave the pin with 1:45 left before the start.

Once in position, ­control your hole and the boat to windward. This doesn’t demand any sort of attack that requires the use of the rulebook. It requires you to maintain a position where your boat can dictate when the windward boat can trim in and accelerate. Position your bow slightly behind the windward boat’s bow but still in clear air. Your course should be just above closehauled with your sails luffing. Use mainsail trim to help maintain this bow-up position. Try to maintain a boat’s width or slightly less between you and the weather boat. If the weather boat begins to trim and accelerate, trim, gradually head up, and force it to slow down. As long as they’ve been provided the opportunity to keep clear of you, they will also need to luff.

At the same time, work hard to stay off the boat to leeward, if there is one. Constantly watch the leeward boat’s position and speed. If they accelerate and sail higher toward you, react by doing the same to maintain a safe distance—hopefully as much as two to three boat widths. This hole to leeward is key in allowing you to sail slightly below closehauled, in first gear, in order to accelerate in the five to 10 seconds before the gun.

In the last 15 to 20 ­seconds, the GPS pings and/or line sights are important gauges that will give you confidence in your positioning. Pay close attention to your placement relative to the lineup of boats close by. Especially watch the two to three boats to windward, always trying to maintain the same slight bow-back position throughout the entire starting approach. That will give you a runway to accelerate into so you can begin to trim before the competitors above do. If any of those boats to weather trims and begins to accelerate, trim immediately and match its speed, no matter where it is on the line or the time before the gun. If even one of those boats gets the jump and ends up on your wind after the gun, it can be game over.

One tip is how to slow the boat when you find yourself dangerously close to being over early. Our instinct tells us to turn down, away from the line. However, bearing away usually means burning up the valuable hole to leeward and, in fact, you end up accelerating right into it. Instead, head up to near head-to-wind. The boat will slow more quickly and slow the weather competitors. You’ll buy more time and save distance to the line. Most important, you’ll build the hole to leeward and close the ­distance to windward.

Especially for the first minute after the start, boatspeed is king. Fight the urge to point as high as possible until the boat has sailed through all the gears and is at top speed. Definitely do not pinch. A common mistake is to trim the sails too tightly, too quickly. If the sails are trimmed right to the closehauled position before the boat has the time to sail through the gears, the boat will load up and slide sideways. Talk about ­burning up the hole to leeward!

On our boat, we divide all the responsibilities where, in the last 15 seconds, I am simply steering when and where the crew indicates. If we’re sailing with three, the jib trimmer keeps track of the line and our position relative to the boats to weather. That person has control of our final timing and dictates exactly when to pull the trigger. The middle person keeps the time and looks aft and to leeward for boats approaching late on port or behind and low on starboard. Our boat is anything but quiet in these last seconds, but this constant influx of information allows me to concentrate entirely on boatspeed.

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David Dellenbaugh is a champion helmsman, tactician, author, coach, rules expert and seminar leader who has spent his career helping sailors sail faster and smarter.Here are the learning resources that he has created to help you improve your racing skills.

• The SMART Course

Starting Strategy and Tactics

The start of a sailboat race is certainly an exciting, and critical, moment.  With the entire fleet forced to sail through a very small area, the potential for gain or loss is huge.  While you don't have to win the start to win the race, it certainly helps to be in the front row.  And doing this consistently requires a good deal of tactical skill, boathandling expertise, sense of timing and strategic planning.

How Strategy Affects Starting

The goal of starting is to put yourself in a position so you can implement your strategy and get to the windward mark as quickly as possible.  Getting a good start is not an end in itself.  It will do you no good to "win" the start if this means you have to sail toward the wrong side of the course.
      The "big" picture  In general, your position on the starting line should reflect where you want to go on the first beat.  If you want to play the left side, start near the pin end. If you want to go right, start at the committee boat.  If you want to go up the middle (or keep your options open), start in the middle of the line.
      When your strategic plan favors one side quite strongly, then this will be the overriding factor in your starting plan.  At the 1984 Olympics in Long Beach, for example, it was usually quite favored to go all the way to the right side of the course.  For this reason, the race committee favored the pin end of the line (if the line was even, everyone would start at the committee boat).  Even with the pin end favored, the best strategy was often starting at the right end and tacking immediately.
      The "small" picture  To implement your strategy, it's important not only where you start on the line, but where you start in relation to the boats around you.  Consider the situation where you are starting in an oscillating breeze.  Here your primary strategic consideration is to get in phase as soon as possible.
      If you are in a header when the gun goes off, you will want to tack as soon as possible.  This means you must be far enough ahead of the boats on your weather hip so you can cross them cleanly.  The worst thing would be starting in a position where you were pinned on starboard and had to sail through the header.
      If you are in a lift when the gun sounds, you will want to keep sailing on starboard.  This means you better have a nice hole to leeward so you won't get pinched off.  When you're on a lift, you want to avoid bad air, and you certainly don't want to tack.

Finding the "Favored" End

When we talk about the "favored" end of the starting line, we usually mean the end that is closer to the wind. In other words, it's the end that is on the most upwind ladder rung.  As we've just seen, the favored end is not always the best place to start. It is usually crowded, and it may not be close to the favored side of the windward leg. So you should rely primarily on your strategic plan to help determine your starting position.
      However, if  everything else is equal, the best place to start is near the end of the line that's more upwind (on the higher ladder rung).  Here are five ways to identify the favored end and by how much it is favored.

Method 1:  The most commonly used method is shooting head to wind in the middle of the line.  When your sails are luffing on centerline, the favored end is the one that's closer to the direction your bow is pointing.
     

The advantage of this technique is that it's quick and can be used to check the wind direction continually during the starting sequence.  The disadvantages are that it's not always too accurate, especially if a) the line is long; b) there are boats creating a lot of bad air; or c) you have a hard time judging perspective.

TIP:   To avoid fouling other boats, always go head to wind from starboard tack.  As long as you do not go past head to wind, you remain on starboard and keep the right of way.

Method 2:  The most accurate way to find the favored end is by using your compass.   Go head to wind and get a compass bearing.  Then go outside one end of the line (the pin end is usually better) and line up the two ends of the line.  With your bow pointing right down the line, read your compass. Now use simple geometry to figure out which end is favored and by how much.
     

For example, pretend that the wind direction is 125.  You find that the line bears 200 (or 020 if you are looking from the committee boat toward the pin).  For the line to be "square," the wind direction would have to be 110 (90 degrees to the line).  Since the wind is actually 125, this means the starboard end is favored by 15 degrees. To figure out what this means in terms of boatlengths, estimate the length of the line and use the windshift geometry discussed in the Basics chapter.

TIP:  If you have trouble getting an accurate wind reading by going head to wind, use the following to find the wind direction:  Sail closehauled on each tack and note your compass headings.  The wind will be half way between these numbers.

Method 3:  Some racing sailors prefer another simple technique.  Sail from the committee boat toward the pin, and trim your sails so they are right on the verge of luffing.  When you get to the pin, tack or jibe around it, keeping your sheets trimmed (cleated) exactly as before. 
      Now look at the front of your sails. If they are luffing, you know the wind is coming more from ahead, so the committee boat end is favored.  If you can ease your sheets further without the sails luffing, then the pin end is favored. (By the way, this method gives you a perfect chance to time the length of the line.)

Method 4:  Here is an accurate technique to use if you have a friend and a bit of time before the start.  Have one boat start on port tack at the leeward end while the other starts on starboard at the windward end.  Both sail fast upwind until they meet.  If the starboard tacker crosses ahead by two boatlengths, then the windward end is favored by two boatlengths.  This works especially well for long lines when neither end is obviously favored.  Beware, however, of windshifts between the time of your test and the start.

Method 5:  Another easy guide is to watch the boats that are sailing closehauled off the line (and the fleets that start ahead of you). The key here is their angle on each tack. Figure out which boats sail more perpendicular to the line, and start at the end that's to windward of them.
      Remember that a shifting wind will change the favored end of the line, so you must be careful of tests that are carried out too long before the start.  Here is where a little preparation can save the day.  If you have been monitoring the shifts, you will be able to compare your wind bearing at the time you determined the favored end to the wind direction just before the start.
      Pretend, for example, that you found the windward end to be 15 degrees favored when the wind direction was 125.  A minute before the start, you check the wind again and find that it has shifted left to 105.  Now the leeward end of thie line is actually favored by five degrees.  To improve accuracy on a shifty day, take many wind checks, and try to postpone your decision about the favored end until the last possible moment.
      When the wind is shifting persistently, it's important to plan your start so you can head immediately toward the favored side.  In an oscillating breeze, your position on the line is less critical.  You may actually want to start away from the upwind end so you will be closer to the next shift.

Three Places to Start 

Think of a line in terms of its thirds, not its ends.  When we talk about starting at  the windward end of the line, for example, we are usually considering the windward third of the line.  In most cases, you don't have to be right at the favored end in order to reap the advantages of starting there; starting down the line a little will lower your risks.

Windward end:  This end is also called the starboard end (and is usually the committee boat end too).  This is definitely the place to be when your strategy calls for going right.  There are several other reasons for starting here:

Advantages:
      1) It's easy to judge where the line is.

      2) If you have a bad start, it's easy to bail out and get clear air on the other tack.

      3) You'll have no problem seeing the signals and hearing the gun.  In fact, you can often hear the race committee's countdown.

      4) If you're over early, you can easily hear your recall number.  And if the one-minute rule is in effect, it's easy to round the committee boat.

Disadvantages:
      1) The boat end is usually crowded, ecen when it's not particularly favored.

      2) You risk the chance of being caught barging, especially if there is any current pushing you to windward.

It is usually difficult to get the start right at the committee boat.  Everyone fights for this, and your chances of pulling it off perfectly are slim.  That's why it is better to start down the line a little. 
      Begin your approach slightly to leeward of the layline to the windward end. You have to be on starboard tack relatively early, because port tack approachers often find an impenetrable traffic jam.  Try to luff in position and maintain a hole between you and the boat to leeward.  Then accelerate so you hit the line at the gun going full speed.

Late at the windward end:  If you really want to go right, the best approach may be a slightly delayed start at the committee boat.  To do this, hang out in a barging position and look for a hole at the stern of the boat.  You may have to start behind one or two boats, but at least you will have the chance to tack right away.

Middle of the line:  Starting in the middle often seems less glamorous than starting at either end, but this position offers a much better chance to get off the line fast and clean.

Advantages:

      1) This is usually the least crowded part of the line.

      2) It's the best place when the wind is oscillating or when you're not sure which side of the course is favored.

      3) You can take advantage of the mid-line sag.

Disadvantages:

      1) It's hard to judge where the line is.

      2) Since one of the ends is favored almost all the time, you will lose some distance to the boats at that end.

      3) In a big fleet, the wind may be lighter and the chop bigger in the middle.

      4) You're in deep trouble if you're over early when the one-minute rule is in effect.

When starting in the middle, you can often get a big jump on the boats around you.  If it looks like there will be a mid-line sag, hold back and luff with the others.  Then, when you have just enough time to make it to the line at the gun, trim in and go full speed ahead.  Of course, you want to be close to the boat on your windward side with a big hole to leeward.

The main disadvantage of starting in the middle is that it's hard to judge the line.  This increases the likelihood of a mid-line sag (where everyone is late) or a mid-line bulge (where many boats are caught over early).  If you choose this approach, it's critical to have a line "sight" or "range."  After the race committee sets the starting line, go outside the committee boat end and sight through the flag on the boat and the leeward end.  Your goal is to line these ends up with an object on shore.  Then, as you approach the line to start,  use this range to help position yourself right on the line. 

Leeward end:  This end is also called the "port" or "pin" end.  A start here can be difficult to pull off, but it offers big rewards when your strategy says go left.  You can either drive off to leeward and leave the fleet in the dust when you get the next shift, or you can pinch like crazy and start a chain reaction that stops everyone in their tracks. 

      1) It's easy to judge where the line is.

      2) If you're right at the pin, you won't have any boats to worry about on your lee bow.

      3) It's easy to round the leeward end if you are over early when the one-minute rule is in effect.

      1) This end is usually crowded, especially if it's favored.

      2) If you get a bad start, it will be very difficult to find clear air.

      3) You may get pinned on starboard for longer than you want

A port-tack approach is usually the only way to get a good leeward-end start, especially in a big fleet.  Try to be the last boat approaching the line on port, and tack on the lee bow of the first starboard tacker.  It's best if you tack close enough so the other boat cannot sail over or under you.  This way, if you are early, you can luff the other boat and hold him back until you accelerate to the pin end.

Don't forget the possibility of a port-tack start.  This won't work very often, but if the leeward end is favored by quite a bit (especially if the current is making it hard to cross the line), you may be able to cross the fleet on port.

Starting Tactics

Once you've devised a strategy for where you want to start, you have to use the tactics necessary to get you there at the gun.  Here are some tools you may want to use.

The Vanderbilt start:  This is a simple out-and-return pattern used primarily by larger displacement boats that take a long time to accelerate.  In recent years, the master of the Vanderbilt start has been Dennis Conner.  In both the 1983 and 1987 America's Cup series, Conner used his excellent sense of timing to negate the better maneuverability of his competition.  Here is how the Vanderbilt start works:

      1) Pick the place you want to start.

      2) When you are ready to make your final approach, go past this spot on a port tack beam reach.

      3) Note the time remaining until the start.        

      4) Divide this time in half and add an allowance for time to tack or jibe.

      5) Proceed on a broad beam reach until the designated time; then turn around and go for the start. (In small boats, the Vanderbilt principle can be helpful, though the routine will be less structured.)

Dip start:  This approach works well when the fleet is late for the start.  Hang out to windward of the starting line until you have less than a minute to go.  Then reach down (dip) below the line and head up to start.  You will have excellent speed and a minimal risk of being late.  Of course, this won't work well when the whole fleet is crowding up to the line.

Starting Ideas I

• Appoint someone on your boat as the "official" timekeeper and ask him or her to call the time loudly at regular intervals.  Set your time by the race committee's visual signals, not by sound signals.
• Your sailtrimmers should always trim the sails for full speed ahead, unless they hear "Luff sails" from the skipper or tactician.
• If your boat is big enough to have a tactician and a helmsperson, let the helmsperson make moment-to-moment decisions while the tactician concentrates on the big picture.
• Remember that the racing rules go into effect at the five-minute preparatory signal (unless otherwise stated in the sailing instructions).  Make sure all members of your crew keep a lookout for other boats.
• Always stay close to the starting line (never more than half the line's length away), especially in light air.

Starting Ideas II

• When changing tacks to turn back to the line for your approach, remember that a tack takes longer, but a jibe will move you to leeward and is risky in heavy air.
• Unless you have a very good reason, always cross the line on starboard tack.
• On bigger boats, it may help to send a crewmember to the bow as you approach the start.  It will be easier to estimate distance to the line from there.
• For practice, pretend that the five-minute gun is your start. Go through your whole approach to work on timing, crew communication, etc.
• If possible, go on a close reach for a few seconds before the start, then luff up to closehauled as the gun goes off.  This will let you cross the line faster than closehauled speed.

Luffing in place:  One of the most valuable skills for starting is the ability to luff in place and keep control of your boat.  This helps in almost every start, especially on a crowded line or when you are early.  To luff in place, the key is maintaining a slight angle to the wind.  Do not go head to wind; this is the quickest way to lose steerage. 
      Once your boat is stopped, use your sails to maneuver.  To open a hole to leeward and squeeze up to a boat on your windward side, trim your main only.  To accelerate at the start, trim the jib first to pull the bow off toward a closehauled course.  Then trim your main.

The port-tack approach:  The port-tack approach has become quite popular during recent years.  The main advantage of this technique is the ability to pick and choose your place on the line, as well as your position relative to nearby boats.  It's also the best way to start on someone's lee bow, which is important when you are at the leeward end.
      The main disadvantage of the port-tack approach is that you can get "locked out."  This is likely to happen in bigger fleets, or when the windward end is favored.  In these situations, it's better to set up on starboard early to reserve a spot in the front row.
      When approaching on port tack, your object is to set up on the windward side of a hole between two boats.  To do this, make your tack onto starboard so you end up right underneath the boat on the windward side of the hole you've chosen.  You want to have your bow just slightly ahead of the windward boat.  This allows you to luff this boat and hold him in place; it also prevents him from bearing off behind your stern into your hole.

TIP:   When you're on port looking for a place to tack, pick a spot that is just to windward of a relatively slow boat.  You certainly don't want to start with the fleet champion on your lee bow.

Defending against a port tacker:  OK, you've carved out a nice hole to leeward and now you're luffing on the line with only a few seconds before the gun sounds.  You're getting psyched for a great start when, all of a sudden, a boat approaches on port, tacks into your hole, stuffs you and leaves you in the dust.  Your worst nightmare just happened.
      Creating a hole to leeward is only half the battle.  Protecting it from the vultures is the other half.  You must always keep a lookout to leeward for port tackers approaching your hole.  If they look seriously interested, bear off and aim right at them.  This forces them either to tack early or bear off below you. As soon as they commit to one of these options, head back up into the wind so you don't sail down into your hole any more than you have to.    

TIP:   In a competitive fleet, don't try to horde too much space.  Make a hole to leeward that's big enough to give you room to accelerate, but small enough so you don't tempt another boat to go in there.

Defending against a starboard tacker:  Sometimes, when you're luffing on starboard tack with a nice hole to leeward, the biggest threat is a boat that comes reaching in from behind.  The defense against these boats is usually tougher than against port tackers, mainly because they're coming from behind and are often obscured by other boats.
      Obviously, your first priority is to keep a lookout behind.  When you see a vulture approaching, quickly turn your boat and head off in front of the other boat before he becomes overlapped to leeward.  Your object is to get him to head up on your windward side; as soon as he does this, luff up hard so you save your hole to leeward.

TIP:   Position your boat so that when the mainsail is luffing, the boom sticks out as far as possible to leeward.  This is a great way to fill up some of your leeward hole and discourage another boat from trying to squeeze in there.

After the Gun

The first few minutes after the starting gun are perhaps the most critical moments of any race.  This is the time when everyone fights for clear air and tries to implement their strategic plan.  It's important to go flat out during this time. For example, straight-leg hike as hard as you can on a one-design.  Every foot gained off the line will help immensely in the long run.

Watermelon seed:  After several minutes, a few boats will squeeze ahead of the pack like watermelon seeds.  Your object is to be one of those boats.  Shift your sail trim into point mode for two reasons: 1) To make sure you do not fall into the bad air of the boat to leeward; and 2) To squeeze up in front of the boats to windward, which is important if you want to tack.

Bail out:  If you aren't lucky enough to be a watermelon seed, you will sooner or later end up in bad air.  Unless your strategy says you have to go left, tack away immediately and duck as many sterns as needed to get clear air.  Cut your losses by getting into clear air before the "seeds" have developed an untouchable lead. 

Downwind Starts   
The general principles of starting downwind are a lot like starting upwind, except  you have the added intrigue of spinnakers, and it's a lot harder to luff on the line.  This type of start is usually used for handicap racing with fixed marks.
     

Finding the favored end is not too hard.  Simply follow the same steps you used for upwind starts, except you want to identify the end that is most downwind, or on the lower ladder rung.  This is the "favored" end.
     

Like upwind, the approach to a downwind start should almost always be made on starboard tack.  A reaching approach along the line has three advantages.  First, you will be leeward boat and will have right of way over all others.  Second, you will be closer to the line, so it will be easier to judge how long it will take you to get there.  And third, you will have full reaching speed as you bear off at the gun.

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Sailing the Race Course – Starting for Beginners

In this series of articles, we will introduce the key concepts of sailing a race from preparation to the starting sequence, buoy roundings and finishing. The target audience for this information is sailors that may have never competed in a formal race environment or want to better understand what is going on during a race. The target could also include someone who spectates and wants to better comprehend what is happening. Throughout, we will link to more advanced information, but the body of the article will be the basics. We will not go into rules details, but will mention rule areas that pertain to various situations, for further study. If we missed a basic concept, feel free to comment below. There will be links to lots of articles at the end.

We’ll begin with Pre-race Preparation to Starting .

Weather Forecast and Current Conditions

• Wind shifting through the racing period? Persistent (shifting one direction further and further) or Oscillating shifts (shifts back and forth, but generally around the same average direction). For example, if there is a Persistent Shift moving clockwise , the starboard tacks will get increasingly favored, assuming that the marks are not moved.
• Will the wind speed be increasing? If so, you may need to adjust your boat and sail controls for the changing conditions.
• Storms – Is there a storm system moving through that might bring changes to the winds?

Preparation Checklist – Equipment

We suggest a checklist to remind you of things to look over and things to ensure that you have for the race. These might include the following:

• Fittings – Are they secure and all present? Do you have spares?
• Control Lines & Blocks – Are your lines (ropes) all in good shape, untangled and running through the blocks (pulleys) in the correct directions for any ratcheting?
• Spars – Are your lines clear of your shrouds (sidestays) for when you hoist your sail(s)? Have you adjusted your mast “rake” (tilt)? Does your boat require setting “rig tension”? Are your shroud fittings connected securely? Are your shrouds / stays in good condition without any broken strands / wires?
• Blades – Centerboard / Daggerboard, Rudder: Are these clean and moving smoothly? Do you have the safety line attached to the daggerboard, if appropriate.
• Sails – Are your sails all on board and connected properly? Make sure that nothing gets in the way of hoisting them and battens are all in place and secure. If you have sail ties, are they properly tied and knots tight? Are the “Outhaul” and “Cunningham (Downhaul)” attached?
• Personal Flotation Device (PFD) Safety Gear – Do you have approved PFDs for all crew?
• Racing Timer – Do you have your timer and is it set to the proper timing sequence? Usually 5 or 6 minutes, but will vary somewhat.
• Water – Do you have water to stay hydrated?
• Suntan lotion & Sunglasses – Is your skin protected? The water reflects the sun and can make burning more likely. Same issue with sunglasses. I prefer polarized lenses to reduce the glare off the water and the boat surfaces.
• Hat – While protecting your head, a hat can also reduce distracting sun glare when trying to see the water.
• Sailing Gloves – Purpose-built sailing gloves (properly-fitted) or gardening gloves can really protect your hands from abrasion and helps to hang on to the sheet lines.
• Launching – Are your bailers up? If launching with a trailer, is the lighting harness disconnected from the towing vehicle to prevent electrical shorts? Do you know where you will put the boat to finish assembling it while allowing others to launch?
• Current – Is there water flow / current that may impact your sailing? Which way is it moving and how fast? A tip is to look at any fixed buoys and see how the water is moving around them.
• Shoals / Weeds – Do you know where shallow areas and weedy areas are?
• Wind Obstacles – Look for hills, trees, peninsulas, tall buildings, etc that may reduce or bend the wind direction and think about how that will impact your sailing.
• Local Insights – Have you checked with local sailors for any insights they may have about the venue?

On the Water

Before the sequence.

Be Early – Try to get to the racing area no less than 30 minutes ahead of time so that you can get familiar with what is going on and form a “strategy” for how you want to sail the course.

A Strategy is the path you would sail with no other boats on the race course. Tactics are what you do when you encounter other boats to get back on your strategy. – Dave Dellenbaugh

Survey the Course – Sail both sides of the course and the top mark rounding and the starting line area to learn about the tacking angles and wind pressure (force) across the course. Take note of where the wind seems to originate, if there is any current and are the shifts happening the way that you predicted from the forecast.

Learn From Others – Watch how the other competitors are sailing, who is lifted (sailing straighter to the marks) and who is knocked and who has better wind pressure, where.

Benchmark Against Others – Try to get somewhat near another competitor and see how well your boat is performing versus the other boat. Are you pointing higher or lower while watching your sail telltales to make sure that your sail and point (how close to the wind direction you aim) is correct? Can you match or exceed their speed in similar breeze? Try adjusting controls if you need to to test things out.

Check-In – Check-in with the Race Committee to let them know that you’re sailing, if necessary. Home port fleet races may not require this.

Ready To Start

Anatomy of The Line

Typically, the starting line is between an anchored Race Committee boat with an orange flag on the starboard end and a mark (buoy) on the port end. The line is usually roughly perpendicular to the windward marks.

Getting Ready

So you’ve sailed around the race area and have a preliminary strategy. What should you be thinking about now?

• Wind angle has shifted right of center (looking up the race course).
• Wind is centered, but the breeze is stronger on the RC Boat end.
• Wind angle has shifted left of center.
• Wind is centered, but the breeze is stronger on the Pin end.
• The Mob: If a lot of boats want your spot, then it might be best to stay beside the pack, but on the starting line , and not stuck inside pack. You want clear air and ability to accelerate off the line.
• Line Length – A rule of thumb is that the line length should be 1.5 boat lengths X # of boats competing. If it’s less than that, be ready for it to be a tight start.
• Wind Angle Change? Watch competitors who are still sailing upwind and down to see what their angles are.
• Wind Pressure obviously better on one part of the leg? Again, watch competitors to see who is in the breeze.
• Wind Shifts – Are the shifts Persistent (more and more in one direction) or Oscillating (back and forth, but generally on either side of a similar direction)?
• Equipment and Crew Ready for action – Is everything untangled and gear is on correctly so that there is no last minute problem?

In The Sequence

This graphic show the timing sequence and flag signals and what they mean. The Preparatory Signal flag(s) are important because they tell you what is permitted during this start and what the penalties will be. Some penalties can be remedied and some disallow you to sail in the race.

Note the Racing Triangle diagram. The Racing Triangle is the area between each end of the line and the windward mark.

Ready, Set, Go!

• Timing to Get Your Spot – Know where you want to start on the line and position yourself to be there ahead of time, at least with enough time to hit the line at full speed at the gun.
• Make and Defend a “Hole” – For best results, you want space to leeward of your boat on the line so that you can bear off (point down) to accelerate before crossing the line. This is usually hard against good sailors and takes practice.
• What’s Your 0-60? – Know how long it takes for your boat to accelerate from a stop in different breezes. This will help you to know when to “pull the trigger” on accelerating during the countdown sequence. Drill: Stop next to a buoy (not during a race) and see how long it takes to get to full speed and review your distance from the buoy location.
• Prepare to be fast and smooth – lines clear, controls set, ready to hike, know who is around you and what they’re doing.
• Wind Shifts While Starting – See this article .
• Note the penalties for being over the line early and avoid them or know what your rights are if you mess up.
• Fouling Someone – Be ready to figure out how to save yourself if you have to take a penalty turn.
• Bail Out – If you get jammed in a spot, know whether the best option is to just stay in the bad spot or if tacking off will improve your situation. Many times tacking off will result in ducking boat after boat or being forced back, so assess the options quickly.

Further Learning: Starting well takes practice and has a lot of aspects. There are a number of links below that can help you to dig deeper into this topic.

Related Content

SailZing Category: Starting Strategy and Tactics Category

Individual articles:

Starting Strategy and Tactics for Youth: ILYA Seminar

Starting  Strategy and Tactics: Where to Start – SailZing

Starting  Mentality: Learn to Be Aggressive – SailZing

Starting  Line Approach: What Kind of Creature Should You Be …

Wind Shifts While  Starting : Impacts and Tips – SailZing

Starting  Tactics Quiz: Boat Thoughts at 30 Seconds – SailZing

Bad Start? Four Recovery Options

Line Sag: Illusions and Opportunities

Wind Shifts While Starting: Impacts and Tips

Execute the Start with Four Key Skills – SailZing

Vakaros Atlas 2 – First Look

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STARTING STRATEGIES: LOW RISK, HIGH REWARD

Tricks for a better race start.

The first two minutes of a race is arguably the most important. Those first two minutes will define where you start on the line, and how much space is around you to accelerate. This makes starting one of the hardest skills to master in sailboat racing. Good news is there are a few tricks that can make starting much easier. These tricks focus on executing a start that is low-risk and has a high-reward. A low-risk start isn’t going to mean that you are leading at every windward mark, but it will keep your options open on the first beat so you can go where you want without being forced which will give you a better chance of rounding the top mark in the front of the pack. Once you are in the front, it is easier to hang in there.

In the video below, our expert Mike Marshall talks us through a ten-boat start where one boat, in particular, had the opportunity to contain the fleet and have a low-risk start with just one small decision change. Instead, because they were too early, they had to sail down the line which then forced them into a high-risk starting situation that gave them no control of the race, or their competition.

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