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Navigation Lights: Hella and Aqua Signal Shine BrightestThree of the four major light manufacturers serve up superlative lights-many lights even satisfied coast guard requirements at our engine-off test voltage. still, a variation of the golden rule applies: shine unto others as you would have them shine unto you.. ![title= steaming light on sailboat](https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Lights2.jpg.optimal.jpg) Most boats, new or used, come with navigation lights installed-and that’s about all that we care about them until one of them fails. Sometimes the failure is in the light itself, sometimes in the wiring leading to it. The fix is usually simple enough to perform mechanically or electrically, but there’s an inconvenience factor that varies from minor to major, depending on where the failure occurs. If a light goes out on the bow pulpit or cabinside, it’s no big deal. If it goes out at the top of the mast, it’s a royal pain. After the first of these pains, you begin to pay more attention to how the lights are mounted and sealed against the elements, and how the wiring is led and protected from chafe and crimping. And you begin to consider the design, construction, and materials of the lights themselves. The other occasional concern we have with these lights is how they actually perform. Again, most of the time we take them for granted-the waters are less crowded at night, tense crossing situations are relatively infrequent, and there’s usually plenty of time to study a developing situation and make a course change if necessary. In times like that, you might feel that you have your lights on just to obey the law, nothing more. However, when you find yourself negotiating a busy harbor or channel at night, or the visibility isn’t what it could be, or you’re traveling along a shore twinkling with houselights and floodlights and car headlights and all sorts of other distractions, you instantly appreciate running lights that are clear and bright and that stand out against the background-and you wonder just how visible yours are to others. There are minimal visibility requirements set by the US Coast Guard-see the sidebar on pages 8-9 for the basics. But note that there’s no rule prohibiting a boat from carrying bigger, better lights than those that satisfy the minimum, as long as they don’t shine so brightly or cause so much glare that they interfere with the helmsman’s vision. Obviously, navigation lights exist to help prevent collisions. As such, they’re important pieces of safety gear. If you suspect the ones aboard your boat are feeble, either in form or function, consider replacing them. It’s to help with your decisions on that score that we’ve done this evaluation. Light Basics The point of navigation lights underway is to show a 360-degree circle of light at all times, including red and green sidelights, each visible through 112.5 degrees, and a stern light, visible through 135 degrees to complete the circle. On boats under 20 meters, sidelights can be combined in one unit (a bi-color light). Powerboats underway are required to show sidelights and 360 degrees of white light. The usual configuration is sidelights, a sternlight, and a masthead light. If the boat is under 12 meters in length, an all-round white light can be substituted. The all-round white light also serves as an anchor light, required from sunset to sunrise in areas that are not designated anchorages. On a sailboat under 20 meters, all three lights can be combined in a tri-color light at the masthead, but only when sailing; under power, a sailboat must show a 360-degree circle of white light, either in an all-around light at the masthead, or in a combination of stern light plus a 225-degree masthead light. (The masthead light is confusingly named, since it’s rarely located at the top of the mast. Usually it’s about three-quarters of the way up. On powerboats it’s usually mounted on a short pole.) We’re referring here to boats between 7 and 20 meters in length. There are variations on the rules outside that range, but we don’t have enough paper to cover them all. What Was Tested The last time we tested navigation lights was in 1993-the results were published in the July 1 issue of that year. We evaluated 70 lights then, and as it turns out we looked at 70 lights this time around, too, although there were some variations-missing were lights from Wilcox-Crittenden, which no longer makes them, and Forespar’s ML2 combination masthead/deck light, recommended in ’93 and still on the market (which we forgot). Otherwise we collected all the lights in the major catalogs and chandleries, including individual and bi-color sidelights, tri-color lights, sternlights, masthead lights, and all-round white lights. The lights were represented by four manufacturers-Aqua Signal, Attwood, Hella Marine, and Perko. How We Tested Our evaluations were simple: All the lights were mounted on pine planks and properly bedded and sealed. On a chilly October night with virtually unlimited visibility, we took the planks to a local beach parking lot with little ambient light around, and set them on sawhorses. With our observer (the keenest-eyed among us) anchored offshore at one nautical mile, we powered each light individually, and the observer called in his impressions via cell phone. ![steaming light on sailboat Navigation Lights: Hella and Aqua Signal Shine Brightest](https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Lights2.jpg.optimal.jpg) We had noted that the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC), in their specs for the Intensity/Nominal Voltage Test for nav lights, says that the test fixture “shall be tested for its ability to meet minimum required luminous intensity… when operated at its intended nominal system voltage. This shall be a single reading at a point selected by the fixture manufacturer.” That leaves the manufacturers quite a bit of wiggle room to balance bulb characteristics against input voltages in order to achieve their visibility requirements. We decided to see how the lights would do in less forgiving circumstances. For power we used a truck-mounted 4-D deep-cycle marine battery monitored throughout the test at 12.4 volts-a standing voltage that would approximate power to the lights with the boat’s engine off and the supply battery in reasonably good shape, but with one or two other power demands being made on it at the same time-nav instruments and an interior light or two. Obviously, with the engine running and an alternator output of 13 volts or more, the lights will shine brighter-so the ratings in our chart should be seen as pessimistic across the board. After looking at all 70 lights and communicating his ratings at 1 nm, the observer moved out to 2 nm and the whole procedure was repeated. The planks were adjusted as necessary to give the observer the full proper view of each type of light. Occasionally it appeared to the testers on shore that the powered light was mounted close enough to its neighbor that it was picking up an extra reflection. In those cases they inserted a brown clipboard between the lights. It didn’t seem to make much difference. After the visibility tests, all the lights were sprayed forcefully with a gardenhose and left to sit for two weeks. Then they were sprayed again and checked for continued function. All lights functioned fine after both inundations. Finally, we studied the lights for quality of construction, mounting methods, and ease of maintenance. Comments on these topics are included in the main chart (see bottom). We didn’t measure each lens for its required cuto-off angle (e.g. 112.5), reasoning that even if we were persnickety enough to find lights that were a degree or two off either way, such minor anomalies would be of little consequence on the water. What We Found The chart provides specifics about the lights and our visibility tests. In general, we found that lights met the minimum visibility requirements at 1 mile, with the exception of two red sidelights-the Aqua Signal 22300-1 and the Attwood 3150R7. Twenty-two lights, nine of which were rated at 2 nautical miles, were invisible at that distance and at our unforgiving voltage. Again, all lights must meet their Coast Guard requirements when powered at the test voltages allowed their manufacturers. We should note that Hella Marine’s Model 62149 red sidelight, a 3-nm light, is rated to burn a 29-watt bulb at 13 volts, so it was unfairly underpowered in the test. Maybe it’s just for powerboats. The fit and finish of the lights varied quite a bit, and those variations are often reflected in the price. Only one light, Perko’s Model 170BMD masthead/decklight combination arrived with an obvious flaw-a 4-mm separation in one side of the plastic housing. A few lights were quite a bit brighter and more visible than the rest of the pack. Only five lights rated good at 2 nm: Aqua Signal’s 40100-1 bi-color light and 40400-1 masthead; Hella Marine’s 62208 stern light, 62206 masthead, and 6225 tri-color. (This tricolor was actually the most visible of all the lights in the test, scoring “excellent” at 1 nm and “good” at 2 nm.) Some sidelights that were rated for only one nautical mile were still visible at two, even if they were only dimly seen at both distances. Those two achievements-overall brightness and staying power, were, to our minds, the top rating criteria. See the big chart for further comments. See the recommendations box on page 5 for our picks by light type. Navigation lights are easy to take for granted, but like so many other bits of safety and navigation gear on a boat, there may eventually come a time when they really need to shine. Contacts- Attwood, 1016 N. Monroe St., Lowell, MI 49331; 616/897-9241. Hella Marine, 201 Kelly Dr., Peachtree City, GA 30269; 877/224-3552; www.hellana.com . Aqua Signal, 1125 Alexander Court, Cary IL, 60013; 847/639-6412. Perko, Inc., 16490 NW 13th Ave., Miami, FL 33169; 305/621-7525; www.perko.com/ . Also With This Article Click here to view “Most Visible Lights.” Click here to view “Value Guide: Navigation Lights.” Click here to view “Light Rules.” RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHORHow to mount your camera on deck: record your adventures with diy innovations. These best boat navigation lights are what most boaters have on their marine vessels for safer and convenient boating trips. I use these bow lights for boat for secured and easy navigation during extreme weather conditions or poor visibility. Unfortuntately, the links to additional information at the bottom of this article are broken. (Error 404 – not found) Any way to get them fixed? This may not be the correct location to ask this question about Nav Light placement so please forgive me and direct me if need be. I am mounting a Tri-color light on top of my 26 ft mast. I presently have an under power, “steaming” light on the mast at 11 feet. COLREGS require this forward facing 225 degree white light to be at least 3′ 3″ ABOVE the forward “side markers/lights”. Where do I, or anyone else, mount the steaming light? 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Deck/Steaming light wiring questionI bought an aftermarket Deck/steaming light for the mast of my Catalina 22.(with no directions) There are two wires neither of which are marked coming out of the deck light.(one of them the ground (not sure which)having the ability to run into where the steaming light connections are.)There are three screw connections inside the lens for the steaming light two of which are connected to the same spot on the receptacle. I bought the wiring harness from Catalina direct which supplies me with three wires at the correct location on the mast.(White, Green and Black)Can someone guide me as to which wires go to which locations? I am under the impression I will be running these lights at different times so they will be on different switches. I also may add I bought the upgrade breaker panel for the cabin so I have plenty of options. Thank You, Andy ![steaming light on sailboat](https://www.sailnet.com/d1/avatars/s/121/121440.jpg?1592288368) steaming light Hey there Just a thought - you say it is a Deck / Steaming light. A picture would really help. This means it is two lights and not just one. Hence the three wires. If it is a steaming light and a deck light, one hot would go to the steaming light, one hot to the deck light and a common ground. One switch would control the steaming light, another switch would control the deck light. Rik Yes Rik two lights Rik, Do I feed one of the wires that comes from the deck light and make that a common ground by inserting it into one of the connections on the steaming light. By the way the two wires that come from the back of the deck light are not marked can I use either one for the common ground? Then I connect the other two wires to the other connections. Am not set up to send a pic. sorry, Thank You, Andy andyjen said: Rik, Do I feed one of the wires that comes from the deck light and make that a common ground by inserting it into one of the connections on the steaming light. By the way the two wires that come from the back of the deck light are not marked can I use either one for the common ground? Then I connect the other two wires to the other connections. Am not set up to send a pic. sorry, Thank You, Andy Click to expand... Thanks guys Thanks guys, your info along with some other I have googled has hellped. Now I am going to really show my ignorance. On my boat I have a bow light, stearn light, deck light, steaming light and a anchor light(top of mast)Please list the lights I must include on my "running lights circuit" What other combination of lights do I put on seperate circuits? If I remember their is a spot for bow and anchor also. Are they the only lights I include in their circuit or is there a combination of them such as the "running" circuit. Thanks for your patience, Andy andyjen said: Thanks guys, your info along with some other I have googled has hellped. Now I am going to really show my ignorance. On my boat I have a bow light, stearn light, deck light, steaming light and a anchor light(top of mast)Please list the lights I must include on my "running lights circuit" What other combination of lights do I put on seperate circuits? If I remember their is a spot for bow and anchor also. Are they the only lights I include in their circuit or is there a combination of them such as the "running" circuit. Thanks for your patience, Andy Click to expand... I believe you would want the navigation lights on one circuit (bow/steaming/stern and side lights if you have them) Anchor light alone and deck light alone. ![steaming light on sailboat](https://www.sailnet.com/d1/avatars/s/134/134469.jpg?1592288369) Thanks guys Thank you for the help, it is much appreciated. I have a very busy family life and do not have allot of research time. You have been a big help. ps I did purchase the replacement panel box with eight circuits. Thanks again. Andy C22 Sunshine Daydream on Seneca Lake, NY Andy, when you get it all wired up, test it with a multimeter or a continuity tester (available in auto parts stores) so you don't have to raise the mast just to see if it works. Pat saildork said: Andy, when you get it all wired up, test it with a multimeter or a continuity tester (available in auto parts stores) so you don't have to raise the mast just to see if it works. Pat Click to expand... ![steaming light on sailboat](https://www.sailnet.com/d1/avatars/s/154/154725.jpg?1592288370) This thread has prompted me to ask a question: on a standard six-switch breaker panel like the one on my 1975 Newport 28, the switches are pre-marked as anchor light, running lights, cabin lights, bilge pump, aux 1 and aux 2. Where did they figure someone would put the steaming light connection? Do most people have a separately wired switch, perhaps connected to the hot lead for the running lights, since one would probably be using the steaming light in conjunction with the running lights? On my boat a PO put the steaming light on Aux 1 and relabeled the switch; but why wouldn't the panel manufacturer account for it as they did for the other lights? Has this info been missed? IMHO it needs to be pointed out that if you have a two-pronged wire connector from the mast to the cabin it shall require upgrading to a four-pronged connector if you wish to have the steaming light and deck light on separate circuits. This would seem to me to be a necessary bit of information which was overlooked in this thread and may not be obvious to all (such as me). If this is so please forgive my resurrecting this thread. Top Contributors this Month![steaming light on sailboat](https://www.sailnet.com/d1/avatars/s/550/550273.jpg?1662985887) ![steaming light on sailboat Sailboat Owners Forums](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/styles/sail/sail/logo.png) - Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
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Steaming Light Replacement Question- Thread starter pumpkinpie
- Start date Sep 19, 2019
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![steaming light on sailboat pumpkinpie](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/144/144649.jpg?1580179554) Anyone have a 2009 Hunter 38 that knows what replacement bulb is necessary for the steaming light? It is the original steaming light and I'm wanting to replace it with an LED light. I found the anchor light LED replacement but having issues with the steaming light. Any help is so much appreciated! ![steaming light on sailboat Rich Stidger](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/74/74140.jpg?1443871934) Rich StidgerI can't help with the type of bulb, but I have to ask - "Why replace?" When you are motoring you have gobs of power. So the primary advantage of the LED is moot. Unless you find the incandescent bulb to be unreliable and require frequent replacement, why bother? ![steaming light on sailboat Terry Cox](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/40/40254.jpg?1443871913) pumpkinpie said: Anyone have a 2009 Hunter 38 that knows what replacement bulb is necessary for the steaming light? Click to expand Terry Cox said: Does your fixture look something like this? LED Masthead/Foredeck Combination Light If it does, you will want to replace the foredeck bulb as well. A picture of your fixture would help, absent any input from an H38 owner. Click to expand ![steaming light on sailboat quadrille38](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/95/95474.jpg?1571515039) quadrille38Take a look at the Hunter 38 parts page on SBO site. Here is the navigation lights page Hunter 38 Nav Lights Parts There are two different steaming light fixtures shown. My 2008 has the combination deck / steaming light fixture that is the one of the bottom left of the page. If you ask the SBO store guys I’d be willing to bet that they can identify the bulb for you. As other poster suggested, I chose to not do LED for steaming light at this time. I was more focused on lights that would be on when the engine is not. Like running and anchor. quadrille38 said: I was more focused on lights that would be on when the engine is not. Click to expand ![steaming light on sailboat Kings Gambit](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/106/106217.jpg?1521216047) Kings Gambitpumpkinpie said: Which equals better visibility to other boaters keeping us a little safer at night. Click to expand I probably should have stated in my original post that for whatever reason my steeming light and deck light are so dim and need to be replaced, regardless if it’s LED or OEM. Terry Cox said: Makes sense, but from my perspective it made more sense to replace the incandescent bulb that has a useful life of maybe a few months, to an LED bulb that will outlast my life of use. Click to expand ![steaming light on sailboat SG](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/137/137068.jpg?1486926060) Your issue, if the light is "dim" (but working) MAY be: i) a bad electrical connection which reduces the current to the bulb -- i.e., it's "dimmed"; or, ii) the lens has been yellowed by UV degradation or is just dirty (less likely). In my experience, an incandescent bulb isn't necessarily less bright than an LED light. I think old fashioned incandescent bulbs are more "forgiving" in terms of compromised electrical connections, and moisture. We replaced all of our Nav lights with LED's EXCEPT for our combo steaming and foredeck light. This year, after 21 years, the steaming bulb gave-out and we replaced it. Our NAV Lights are Hella's, I think they are the most durable and sealed the best. - This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…
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A steaming light is a white navigation light fitted on the mast of a sailboat to provide visibility during low-visibility conditions. It is typically placed near the front side of the mast and angled downwards to indicate that the vessel is under power and moving forward. This light helps other boats identify and avoid collisions, ensuring safe ...
As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead ...
According to the navigation rules the steaming light/mast light should be 1 meter above sidelights. In reality, I have seen mast lights a few feet above the spreaders and a few feet below the spreaders. My mast is 28 ft long . I have already installed the anchor light on top of the mast. Now, I only have to install the steaming light/mast light ...
Powerboats that are less than 12m (39.4') may substitute a single all-round light for separate stern and masthead lights. Powerboats and sailboats under power that are less than 20m (65.7') can substitute a single bi-color light for sidelights. Sailboats When Under Sail. The basic rule is that sidelights and a stern light are required.
Aug 20, 2003. #2. Steaming Light. The steaming light is just that, it is used when steaming/motoring. If it is on, in conjunction with the stern light, then the boat is signaling that is under power to all other vessels. You must then abide by the navigation rules for a motorized vessel even if you are under sail only.
The light fixture is reversed. When steaming you should show a forward facing light for approximately 225 degrees. When you flick on the anchor light it will turn on both the steaming and rear facing to complete the 360 degrees. The wiring seems to be OK so you just need the reverse the fixture. Perhaps a 260 owner can tell you how it is attached.
All-round lights are white and shine through 360°. Masthead lights are white and shine from 112.5° on the port side through dead ahead to 112.5° on the starboard side. They must be above the sidelights. Sailboats under power are considered powerboats. Sidelights may be combined into a single "bicolor" light.
Steaming light. The white, forward-showing light carried by a powered vessel by night or in bad visibility. In the Collision Regulations this is called a 'Masthead Light' (though not required to be carried at the masthead) and it must show from dead ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on each side. A vessel of less than fifty metres length ...
A sailboat doesn't have a steaming light but may display a tricolor light at or near the top of the mast. The LED Tri-Color with Anchor Lamp lights green (starboard), red (port) forward, and white towards the stern. Example of Steaming Light in a Sentence "The steaming light on the front masthead of the boat provided clear visibility of its ...
A sailboat steaming light is a white, forward-facing light used to indicate that a vessel is underway under power during nighttime or restricted visibility conditions. It is typically mounted on the mast or near the navigation lights and helps other vessels identify the sailboat's position and direction.
Stern light. A white light mounted as close to the stern as possible and shines dead ahead in an arc of 135° (67.5° to each side). The mounting height should be aligned to the height of the side lights and should never be higher. 3. Three-colour light for sailing vessels (sailing lights) On sail boats up to a length of 20 m, the side light ...
The most common of our navigation lights are our "running lights". This is a red light on the port side of the boat and a green light on the starboard side that shine from the bow to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam of the boat. This creates a 112.5-degree arc on either side of the vessel. To complete a 360-degree circle, our white stern light ...
In the case above where the steaming light is burned out, you must turn off the anchor light and show the stern light. If the observer knows the basic rules, there is no way to confuse a power driven vessel (sailboat with engine running) from a sailing vessel. The sailing vessel does not show a masthead (steaming) light.
Boat Navigation Light Regulations. Several rules and specifications are related to the type, size, layout, arc, ... Single Steaming Light: Visible over a 225 degrees arc, a masthead steaming light is used by power-driven vessels that are up to 50 m or 160 ft long. Separate stern lights and sidelights are used in case of a length exceeding 20 m ...
Steaming Light - Lopolight 3nm Masthead. The term 'Masthead' can cause some confusion as this light does not actually need to be situated on the masthead. It is a forward-facing (225-degree Arc) white light required on a sailboat when it is under power - which we prefer to call the steaming light. It is normally mounted on the forward face of ...
LED combination deck / steaming light. Meets Coast Guard requirements for yachts up to 65' LOA. Separate switching. LED bulbs are easily replaceable. Provided with 6" of triple-lead wire. Lightweight, rugged composite material. Measure 5 3/4" vertically. Molded body. Available in black finish only.
The "masthead" light (also known as a steaming light) is not generally at the top of the mast. It's normally about 2/3 of the way up the mast on a sailboat. You do need another set of "deck level" red/green sidelights when motoring. The tricolour can only be displayed when sailing. (sidelights must be clearly lower than the masthead/steaming light.
LED Steaming / Masthead Light with USCG certified 3 Nautical Mile visibility for any sailboat or powerboat up to 65 feet. Rugged, waterproof aluminum casing keeps the White LED operational. 225 degree viewable LED range gives this steaming light a long distance of visibility up to 3 NM. Optional mast mounting bracket and navigation light ...
166. Hunter 386 Lake St. Clair. Nov 11, 2020. #1. Guys, we had to step the mast this autumn. Figure might as well change out those old bulbs and replace with Led's. I've attached some photos. The Steaming and Anchor both use, Aqua Signal 12V 25W Index base. Index just means the 2 prongs on the base are offset.
Only five lights rated good at 2 nm: Aqua Signal's 40100-1 bi-color light and 40400-1 masthead; Hella Marine's 62208 stern light, 62206 masthead, and 6225 tri-color. (This tricolor was actually the most visible of all the lights in the test, scoring "excellent" at 1 nm and "good" at 2 nm.) Some sidelights that were rated for only ...
If the boat is under power after dark, you'd need the bicolor/sidelights and either a stern light and steaming light, or an all-around white light, depending on the length of your boat. At anchor, you'd need an anchor light. At any of the above times you might want a foredeck work, like when anchoring. This gives you several options, like using ...
The steaming light is usually mounted on the front of the mast, and is used in conjunction with the red and green running lights when the vessel is operated under power (as opposed to using sail power only). The steaming light is supposed to show through a total of 20 points (10 points on each side of the bow).
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136. Hunter 38 Annapolis, MD. Sep 19, 2019. #3. LED is far much more brighter at night than the standard bulb. This is the reason. I'm just looking for the replacement bulb so I can find the LED replacement. LED is B.R.I.G.H.T.E.R. Which equals better visibility to other boaters keeping us a little safer at night.