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Wheel Steering for Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 24, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: Wheel steering for sailboat

Wheel steering is a common method used on sailboats to control the direction of the vessel. It involves a large wheel connected to a system of cables and pulleys, which in turn steer the rudder. This provides the helmsman with greater leverage and control, especially in larger boats where manual steering may be challenging.

Introducing Wheel Steering for Sailboats: A Complete Guide

For centuries, sailboats have relied on various steering mechanisms to navigate the vast oceans and waterways. From tillers to dual rudders, these sailing vessels have seen it all. However, in recent years, a new trend has emerged – wheel steering for sailboats. With its sleek design and added convenience, wheel steering is rapidly gaining popularity among sailors of all levels.

But why opt for wheel steering when traditional options like tillers have been tried and tested for centuries? In this comprehensive guide, we delve into the world of wheel steering and explore its advantages, installation process, and important considerations to help you make an informed decision.

Advantages of Wheel Steering:

1. Enhanced Control: One of the primary benefits of wheel steering is improved control over your sailboat. The larger diameter of the wheel allows for finer adjustments while maintaining a steady course, even in challenging weather or sea conditions.

2. Comfort and Ergonomics: Wheel steering offers superior comfort during long hours at sea. Its upright position reduces strain on the helmsman’s back by allowing them to sit or lean against a comfortable seat while keeping complete control over the vessel.

3. Accessibility: The elevated nature of wheel steering ensures that it is easily accessible from any part of the boat. This accessibility allows for effortless maneuvering without requiring constant movement around the cockpit.

Installation Process:

Installing a wheel steering system may seem like a daunting task; however, with careful planning and attention to detail, it can be accomplished by boaters with moderate technical skills. Here’s a step-by-step breakdown:

1. Assess Your Boat: Start by assessing your boat’s compatibility with a wheel steering system. Consider factors such as available space in the cockpit area and whether any modifications need to be made to accommodate the installation.

2. Choose Your System: Next, research different types of wheel steering systems available in the market. Factors to consider include size, reliability, ease of installation, and compatibility with your boat’s dimensions and sailing style.

3. Set a Budget: Wheel steering systems come in various price ranges, so it’s crucial to set a budget that aligns with your needs and requirements.

4. Gather the Tools: Before starting the installation process, make sure you have all the necessary tools on hand – from wrenches and screwdrivers to measuring tapes and electrical connectors.

5. Follow Manufacturer Instructions: Wheel steering systems are typically sold with detailed installation instructions specific to the model you purchase. Carefully follow these instructions step by step to ensure proper installation.

Important Considerations:

While wheel steering offers several benefits, it is essential to consider some key points before making the switch:

1. Boat Size: Smaller sailboats may not be suitable candidates for wheel steering due to limited space or weight constraints. Ensure your boat has enough room for a wheel without compromising functionality or balance.

2. Sailing Style: Consider how you use your sailboat – whether it is for leisurely cruising or competitive racing. Some sails may prefer tillers for their hands-on feel and responsiveness during intense maneuvers.

3. Maintenance: Wheel steering systems require regular maintenance to ensure smooth operation and minimize potential issues arising from wear and tear. Factor in ongoing maintenance costs when considering this upgrade.

In conclusion, wheel steering brings a new level of convenience and control to sailboats of all sizes. By offering enhanced maneuverability, superior comfort, and accessibility advantages, this modern alternative is worth considering when searching for an updated sailing experience. However, always evaluate your boat’s specifications, personal preferences, budgetary constraints, and maintenance requirements before embarking on the journey of installing wheel steering system tailored perfectly for your vessel’s unique needs.

How Does Wheel Steering for Sailboats Work? Explained Step by Step

Steering a sailboat is a fascinating process that has evolved over centuries of seafaring exploration. While some sailors prefer the traditional tiller steering method, many modern sailboats are equipped with wheel steering systems. In this blog post, we will dive deep into the intricacies of how wheel steering for sailboats works, explaining it step by step.

Step 1: Understanding the Components Before we delve into the mechanics of wheel steering, let’s familiarize ourselves with its key components. The wheel itself is usually located in the cockpit and connected to a mechanical system that transmits your inputs to the rudder. This system consists of various parts including cables or hydraulic lines, sheaves or pulleys, a quadrant or gear mechanism, and ultimately, the rudder itself.

Step 2: Inputting Commands The first step in understanding how wheel steering works is comprehending how your commands are transmitted from the wheel to the rudder. When you turn the wheel to port (left), it exerts force on either cables or hydraulic lines connected to a quadrant. These cables/lines loop around sheaves and travel down to connect to their respective side of the quadrant.

Step 3: Converting Linear Motion into Angular Motion As you continue turning the wheel leftwards, it causes one side of the quadrant to be pulled while simultaneously pushing/pulling on its opposite side via interconnected cables/hydraulic lines. This action converts linear motion from pulling or pushing at different angles into angular motion.

Step 4: Transferring Force to Rudder Once angular motion is achieved through turning the wheel, this force is then transferred from on-board mechanisms like gears (in case of rack-and-pinion systems) or levers (for cable-driven setups) over an arc-shaped range onto a pushrod connected directly with your boat’s rudder shaft.

Step 5: Rudder Movement Finally, when all these previous steps have been carried out, the mechanical force is effectively and efficiently transmitted to the rudder, causing it to turn in the desired direction. This, in turn, changes the angle at which water flows past your boat’s hull and ultimately determines its changing course.

Step 6: Fine-tuning with Steering Aids While wheel steering is undoubtedly a remarkable invention, sailors often require additional aid for optimal control of their sailboats. Hence, many modern systems feature wheel controls that can trim sails (adjusting their position relative to wind) or even engage autopilot mechanisms. These auxiliary instruments allow sailors to maintain better stability during long journeys, freeing them from constant manual adjustments.

In conclusion, wheel steering for sailboats involves an intricate system of components and mechanics working together harmoniously. From inputting commands through the wheel to transmitting forces via cables/hydraulic lines and gears/levers all the way to converting linear motion into angular motion for rudder movement – each step plays a crucial role in ensuring smooth and precise control on the seas. So next time you find yourself at the helm of a sailboat equipped with a magnificent wheel, you can appreciate not just its elegant design but also understand how it functions with finesse and efficiency.

Common FAQs and Misconceptions about Wheel Steering for Sailboats

Introduction: In the world of sailboats, wheel steering is a common feature that provides sailors with better control and maneuverability. However, there are still some FAQs and misconceptions surrounding this system. In this blog post, we aim to address these questions and clear up any misunderstandings about wheel steering for sailboats.

1. Why choose a wheel over tiller steering? There are several reasons why sailors opt for wheel steering. Firstly, it offers superior comfort as it allows the helmsman to sit comfortably while operating the boat. Additionally, a larger wheel provides better leverage and makes it easier to steer in heavy weather conditions. Moreover, many modern sailboats come equipped with wheel steering systems as standard, making it more accessible and easier to find spare parts or repairs.

2. Can I retrofit a tiller steered boat with a wheel? Yes, it is possible to retrofit a tiller steered boat with a wheel steering system. However, this process can be quite complex and may require modifications to the cockpit layout. It’s essential to consult with experienced professionals who can guide you through the retrofitting process to ensure proper functionality and safety.

3. Do I lose sensitivity/control by using a wheel instead of a tiller? While some purists argue that tillers provide better sensitivity and feedback than wheels, modern advancements in wheel designs have greatly mitigated this concern. Many manufacturers have implemented innovative solutions such as mechanical linkages or hydraulic systems that offer excellent control and responsiveness. Furthermore, mastering the use of additional instruments like autopilots can compensate for any perceived loss of sensitivity.

4. Are larger wheels always better? Contrary to popular belief, bigger does not always mean better when it comes to choosing the size of your sailboat’s steering wheel. While larger wheels do offer extra leverage in heavy weather conditions, they can also make maneuvering in tight spaces more challenging due to limited visibility around the wheel. It’s crucial to consider your sailboat’s specific needs and dimensions before selecting the appropriate wheel size.

Misconceptions:

1. Wheel steering is only suitable for larger sailboats. This is a common misconception as wheel steering can be found on boats of all sizes, from small day sailors to large offshore cruising yachts. The decision to install a wheel system depends on the sailor’s preference for comfort, boat handling requirements, and accessibility of spare parts.

2. Wheel steering is less reliable than tiller steering. There is no inherent reliability issue with modern wheel steering systems when properly installed and maintained. In fact, some argue that wheel steering can be more reliable due to the availability of redundant systems such as manual backup hydraulic pumps or emergency tillers.

3. Wheel steering offers no advantages over tiller steering in terms of safety. Contrary to popular belief, wheel steering actually provides several safety advantages over tiller systems. As mentioned earlier, it allows the helmsman to sit comfortably while operating the boat, reducing fatigue during long passages and enhancing overall safety. Additionally, wheel steering enables better control in heavy weather conditions due to increased leverage and smoother movements.

Conclusion: Wheel steering for sailboats has become increasingly popular due to its comfort, control benefits, and availability in modern boat designs. By addressing these FAQs and misconceptions about this system, we hope to provide sailors with a clearer understanding of the advantages offered by wheel steering as well as debunk any myths surrounding its use on sailboats of various sizes.

Advantages of Wheel Steering for Sailboats: Why Choose It?

Advantages of Wheel Steering for Sailboats: Embracing the Perfect Helm Companion

Sailing enthusiasts would unanimously agree that finding the perfect helm companion is a sailing dream come true. In search of that ideal steering mechanism, sailors have explored different options over the years. However, one method has stood the test of time and continues to reign supreme: wheel steering for sailboats. In this blog post, we will delve into some key advantages that make wheel steering a popular choice among avid sailors.

1) Commanding Control:

One of the primary reasons why sailboat owners opt for wheel steering is the unparalleled control it offers. The mechanical advantage provided by a large-diameter wheel allows for precise maneuvering in any conditions, be it calm seas or gusty winds. Great control ensures smooth navigation, helping sailors maintain their desired course effortlessly and making adjustments a breeze.

2) Ergonomic Elegance:

Wheel steering adds an element of sophistication and elegance to any sailboat’s cockpit. Its sleek design seamlessly blends with modern boat aesthetics while offering ergonomic benefits as well. The position of a wheel at chest height enables sailors to comfortably steer while maintaining good visibility ahead, ensuring safer voyages without straining their bodies.

3) Outstanding Feedback:

Nothing beats the feeling of being in tune with your vessel while sailing, and wheel steering makes it even more gratifying. Thanks to its direct mechanical connection with the rudder system, sailors experience unparalleled feedback from their actions on the helm. This instant response provides valuable information about wind conditions and sea states, bringing them closer to becoming true masters of their craft.

4) Space Savior:

Efficient utilization of space is crucial onboard any sailboat. Choosing wheel steering immediately opens up ample room within the cockpit area compared to alternatives like tillers or dual wheels. By centralizing control into one compact unit, there are fewer obstacles on deck, allowing crew members to move freely during maneuvers or social gatherings—creating a harmonious balance between functionality and socializing.

5) Celestial Compatibility:

In the wide-open expanse of the ocean, celestial navigation can sometimes be a sailor’s best friend. Wheel steering enhances this crucial navigation technique by providing sailboat owners with the perfect platform to mount compasses, GPS devices, and other vital instruments. The stability and accessibility offered by a wheel ensure that sailors can effortlessly navigate their way using both traditional and modern methods.

6) Weather Warrior:

When it comes to battling against harsh weather conditions, wheel steering emerges as an undisputed champion. Its solid structure efficiently absorbs forces exerted during heavy winds, making it easier for sailors to maintain control even in challenging circumstances. Sailors can confidently face rough seas, knowing that their trusty wheel will act as their dependable companion throughout their journey.

7) Resale Value:

Lastly, let’s not forget about the impact on resale value. Investing in wheel steering for your sailboat instantly upgrades its market appeal. Potential buyers are often attracted to sailboats equipped with this advanced steering mechanism due to its numerous advantages we have discussed above. A well-maintained sailboat boasting wheel steering is likely to fetch a higher price tag compared to those with outdated or less desirable options.

So, if you’re seeking an unrivaled sailing experience characterized by incredible control, elegant aesthetics, direct feedback, efficient space usage, enhanced navigational capabilities, superior resilience in challenging weather conditions—all while significantly boosting resale value—look no further than wheel steering for your beloved sailboat. Embrace this timeless choice and set sail towards a world of endless possibilities!

Essential Considerations before Installing Wheel Steering on Your Sailboat

Title: Navigating the Decision to Install Wheel Steering on Your Sailboat: Crucial Considerations for Smooth Sailing

Introduction: When it comes to sailing, the choice between tiller and wheel steering can make all the difference in your comfort, control, and overall sailing experience. While traditionalists may prefer the simplicity of a trusty tiller, wheel steering offers certain advantages that are hard to overlook. However, before jumping into this decision, it is vital to evaluate numerous essential considerations. In this article, we will delve into these factors to help you make an informed choice when contemplating whether to install wheel steering on your beloved sailboat.

1. Boat Size and Design: First on our list is thoroughly assessing your boat’s size and design at length. Larger boats often benefit from wheel steering as it imparts more leverage for turning and provides better feedback while maneuvering in tight spaces. Moreover, if your vessel features a larger cockpit space or requires dual helm setups (e.g., center cockpit models), wheel steering becomes a practical necessity rather than a luxury.

2. Space Constraints: Proceeding further is an evaluation of space constraints as extensive modifications might be required when installing wheel steering systems. Wheel pedestals require considerably more room compared to tillers which can be tucked away with minimal obtrusion. Ensuring ample space for comfortable movement around the cockpit post-installation is paramount.

3. Cost Considerations: Of course, cost plays a significant role in any upgrade decision! Installing wheel steering involves investing in not just the equipment itself but also associated labor costs unless you’re adept at tackling marine installations yourself. Consulting with professional marine technicians will allow you to grasp potential expenses before making your final decision.

4. Skill Level and Learning Curve: Transitioning from tiller Steering to wheel Steering requires adjusting established muscle memory settings ingrained by many hours at sea! While wheel Steering inherently seems simpler due to its ability to lock into place, it can be challenging to master finesse and subtlety. Consider your navigational expertise, crew capabilities, and the time you are willing to spend perfecting your wheel handling skills.

5. Feedback and Sensitivity: One major advantage of tiller Steering is its direct connection with the rudder, providing an intimate feel for the boat’s response. Wheel Steering systems may diminish this tactile feedback due to additional mechanical components in play. However, advancements in technology have allowed for hydraulic or linked-wheel systems that bridge this gap effectively, replicating and enhancing sensitivity.

6. Maintenance and Durability: Another critical factor is maintaining your wheel steering system in peak condition through regular maintenance checks. Bushings, bearings, and cables will require periodic inspections and possible replacement to ensure smooth operation. Stainless steel wheels can corrode over time if not adequately cared for. Assessing your commitment to upkeep and longevity considerations is vital before jumping into a wheel steering installation.

7. Aesthetics: While aesthetics might seem less critical initially, the visual impact of a well-installed wheel steering system radiates professionalism and sophistication on deck! It may also enhance resale value down the line if you ever consider parting ways with your beloved sailboat.

Conclusion: Ultimately, choosing between tiller or wheel steering boils down to personal preference alongside careful consideration of practical factors such as boat size, space constraints, costs, skill level compatibility with learning curves, desired feedback sensitivity levels from different systems as well as ongoing maintenance requirements. We hope our comprehensive exploration equips you with valuable insights to make an informed decision regarding upgrading your sailboat’s steering mechanism. Happy sailing!

DIY vs Professional Installation: Pros and Cons of Wheel Steering for Sailboats

Introduction When it comes to wheel steering for sailboats, boat owners are often faced with the decision of whether to tackle the installation themselves or hire a professional. Both options have their own sets of advantages and disadvantages, so let’s take a closer look at the pros and cons of each.

DIY Installation: Taking Matters into Your Own Hands One of the primary benefits of opting for a do-it-yourself (DIY) installation is the potential cost savings. By not hiring a professional installer, boat owners can avoid paying hefty service fees and labor charges. This can be especially appealing for those on a tight budget or looking to cut down on expenses.

Additionally, undertaking a DIY project provides an opportunity for boat owners to learn valuable skills and gain an in-depth understanding of their vessel. Installing wheel steering requires careful attention to detail, knowledge of the boat’s structure, and familiarity with hydraulic systems. By immersing oneself in these tasks, boat owners can enhance their knowledge base about their sailboat while developing practical skills that may prove beneficial in future maintenance projects.

However, it is important to acknowledge that DIY installations come with their own set of challenges. Firstly, without prior experience or technical expertise, there is an increased risk of making errors during the installation process. These mistakes can result in safety issues or additional expenses down the line.

Moreover, DIY installations require significant amounts of time and effort. Boat owners must invest considerable hours researching best practices, sourcing materials and tools, and meticulously following instructions. This commitment may not fit well with individuals who have limited spare time or prefer leaving technical tasks to professionals.

Professional Installation: Expertise at Your Service Hiring a professional installer offers several advantages that cannot be overlooked. The foremost benefit is the assurance that highly skilled experts will handle every aspect of the installation process – from assessing your sailboat’s structure to ensuring proper alignment and functionality. Professionals possess specialized knowledge acquired through years of experience working on various sailboats, minimizing the risk of mistakes or complications.

Another advantage of professional installation is the potential time savings. While DIY projects require personal investment in research and trial-and-error, a trained professional can complete the task swiftly and efficiently. This allows boat owners to focus on enjoying their vessel without enduring long periods of inconvenience or being side-tracked by complicated installations.

Furthermore, opting for professional installation often comes with warranties or guarantees. In case any issues arise after the job is done, boat owners can rely on the expertise and accountability of the professionals involved to rectify any problems promptly. This peace of mind is particularly valuable when dealing with complex systems like wheel steering.

On the flip side, professional installations are accompanied by higher costs. Hiring experts often involves paying for their specialized knowledge and skillset, which can significantly impact an owner’s budget. For those on a tight financial leash or seeking cost-effective solutions, this expense may outweigh the benefits of professional installation.

The Decision: Finding Your Perfect Fit When it comes down to deciding between DIY and professional installation for wheel steering on your sailboat, there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Factors such as budget, available time, level of technical expertise, and personal preferences all play a role in making the best choice for you.

If you have ample time to invest in learning new skills while working within a limited budget, then taking the DIY route may be your ideal option. However, if you value expertise, efficiency, and a warranty-backed solution that minimizes risks and maximizes convenience – hiring a professional installer might be more suitable.

Ultimately, what matters most is ensuring that your sailboat’s wheel steering system functions flawlessly while keeping safety at the forefront. Whether you handle it yourself or call upon professionals to assist you – choose wisely so that you can set sail confidently knowing that your boat is equipped with reliable steering mechanisms designed for smooth journeys ahead!

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Race Compass Smarts: When and How to Use One

Get a race compass! Without a compass, it seems there is a herd mentality, a tendency to go with the crowd. With a compass you’ll know why you are going with the crowd, or not.  Sailboat Racing with Gr eg Fisher

Until you’re pretty experienced and sailing against really good people, just sail in pressure on the tack that is closest to the mark. You’ll do well and don’t need a race compass. “Surf Nazi,” on Sailing Anarchy

In my opinion the compass is a secondary input. A compass only provides information for one spot on the course. More important to look around and read the wind patterns by checking the heading of boats around the course.  “Dog,” on Sailing Anarchy

Since acquiring a compass several years ago, I have experienced the yin and yang expressed in the three statements above. The compass has helped me in many ways, but being too reliant on it has also hurt me. For this post, I collected the existing wisdom on the pros, cons, and techniques for using a race compass.

We have updated this post from the original version with new tips, mental math examples, and refreshed links to compass sources. Unfortunately, our favorite digital compass, the Velocitek Shift is no longer in production.

Pros and Cons of Using a Race Compass

You win sailboat races by sailing faster and less distance than your opponents. To sail less distance, you must have a good feel for the angles. Many sailors develop this feel visually over time. However, not everyone can retain this visual information in the heat of battle.

Pro: precise angles matter

A compass gives you a precise tool for the angles. Winning in One-Designs , by Dave Perry, has a great table showing the dramatic gains and losses due to wind shifts in various situations, even with small shifts.  A 5° shift results gives the favored side an advantage of 12% of the lateral separation. On a 200-yard starting line, that’s a 24-yard advantage. If you sail a 5° header for one minute you will lose at least four boat lengths to a boat on the lifted tack.  For a simple table of advantages, check out this article from Sailing Breezes .

Pro: quick reference tool with many uses

In the heat of battle it’s nice to simplify your life. A compass gives you a quick reference for decisions in the stressful moments, such as after starts and mark roundings.  A compass helps you find marks, check the starting line, and sail the lifted tack.

Con: distraction of dubious value

Many seasoned sailors say that using a race compass is just one more excuse to keep your head in the boat. You should be looking around constantly, integrating all the data about sailing angles, wind strength, and competitors. You can train yourself to recognize slight headers and store a mental picture of the average wind direction in your head. When a permanent shift occurs, your previous compass data on average wind is useless. 

The verdict

I’ll go with Greg Fisher on this one: use a compass, but learn to use it as one input, and keep your head out of the boat. This is what we should strive for.  The compass has helped me even on small  lakes. As the lake gets bigger, a compass becomes more important, since there are fewer shore references. 

Using a Race Compass: The Numbers

So, you’ve decided to try using a race compass. To use it effectively, you need to “know the numbers.” Use part of your pre-race routine to gather the data and do the math.  

Average headings and wind direction

• Sail on each tack for at least ten minutes. The more time and more portions of the course, the better. Write down or mentally note your headings on each tack.  Caution: when noting a heading, make sure you are trimmed in and sailing a true close-hauled course. If you are pinching or footing, your numbers won’t be accurate.
• Determine the average heading on each tack, and the highest and lowest values as well. Record or remember these numbers.
• Determine the average wind direction. This is the value halfway between the average heading on each tack. Example: 235° average on port, 145° average on starboard. Average wind is 190°.  (235-145 = 90. 1/2 of 90 = 45. 45 + 145 = 190)
• Check the average wind direction against other known quantities: -Go head to wind several times and compare the compass bearing to your calculated average wind. -Check the calculated average wind against the RC radio chatter or posted course bearing. -Check the average wind against the forecasted direction.
• Keep checking the average wind to detect any oscillations or persistent shifts that may be occurring before the start.

Tacking angle

Your tacking angle is the difference of the average readings on each tack. In the example above, the tacking angle is 90°. This is a common tacking angle in medium breeze. Tacking angles might range from 80° in slightly heavier air to as much as 100-110° in light air. As your tacking angle changes, it will affect your average headings on each tack. It’s very important to know your tacking angle in various wind ranges, even if you don’t use a compass.

Starting line bias

With shifty winds, any momentary advantage at one end of the line disappears when the wind shifts. The best strategy is to know the line bias to the average wind direction. Race Committees try to set the line square to the average wind, but they often fail.

Don’t use the windward mark placement to determine the average wind. Race committees don’t often center the windward mark on the course. See our post on ladder rungs for more about why windward mark placement doesn’t matter.

Finding line bias

Sail down the line in either direction, lining up bow and stern with the line flags or buoys. Compare the bearing to a square line. A square line will be the average wind minus 90° when sailing on starboard, or the average wind plus 90° when sailing on port.   Example: Your compass bearing when sailing the line on starboard toward the pin is 85°.  The average wind is 190°.  These figures give you the following insights:

• A square line bearing on starboard tack would be 190 – 90 = 100°
• The 85° bearing on starboard indicates the pin (left) end is 15° low (100 – 85).

Anything more than a 5° bias may be significant, especially if the line is long.

Memory and visualization aids for line bias

• Square line bearing on port equals the average wind plus 90 (p is for port and plus). Starboard is minus 90.
• When sailing the actual line on starboard tack, if heading is higher than the square line bearing, the left-hand side of the line is favored. If heading is lower , the right-hand side is favored. ( SLR – starboard-lower-right).
• A quick way to check this without math is to sail from one end of the line at the heading you determined for the square line. Then see which end of the line is low. This doesn’t give you the actual line bearing, but may be all you need to know.

Mental math examples to try

Here are some examples. Try to do these in your head and fill in the blanks.

• Average upwind headings: starboard tack – 060°; port tack – 140°
• Average wind direction: ________
• Tacking angle: ________
• Square line bearing on port: ________
• Square line bearing on starboard: ________
• Favored end (right or left): ________
• Degrees favored: ________

Click here for answer.

• Average wind direction: 330° (You weren’t able to sail the course to get average headings, but have determined this by going head to wind several times.)
• Tacking angle: 90°
• Starboard tack: ________
• Port tack: ________

Mental math overload?

If you don’t want to do all the mental math, there are options. Some digital compasses can record the average headings on each tack and show relative lifts and headers. Analog race compasses have lubber lines and other accessories to help you do the math. There is also the Tacking Master , which is an adjustable wrist dial showing all the key reference points. 

Interpreting Changes – Puffs, Lulls, Lifts, Headers 

As your compass heading changes while sailing upwind, it’s important to distinguish between a wind shift (lift or header) and a velocity change (puff or lull). Check your ability to interpret compass readings with these examples.   

Sail luffs #1

With a nominal wind of 8 mph at 360°, you are sailing close-hauled on starboard, heading 315°.  The sail begins to luff slightly. The shroud telltales begin to point further aft. The wind speed on your face feels unchanged. You bear off 5° and the boat livens up again. This is a header. You were correct in bearing off to keep the boat in the groove.

Sail luffs #2

With a nominal wind of 8 mph at 360°, you are sailing close-hauled on starboard, heading 315°.  The sail begins to luff slightly. The shroud telltales begin to point further aft. The wind speed on your face feels diminished. If you bear off, the boat doesn’t react much. This is a lull, not a change in true wind direction. The boat will slow down due to reduced wind velocity and your tacking angle will increase, so you will eventually need to bear off if it lasts, but you shouldn’t bear off right away. Sailing lulls properly is not intuitive to many sailors. See our posts – Sailing Lull Tips and Sailing Lulls Tips – Part II  – for more.

Strong Puff

With a nominal wind of 8 mph at 360°, you are sailing close-hauled on port, heading 45°.  You see a strong puff (perhaps 12 mph) approaching on the water. As the puff hits, you ease the sheet to accelerate, but you find that you can’t steer up with the increased speed and your close-hauled heading does not change.  This puff is also a header. The tacking angle decreased as you increased speed during the puff, so you should be able to head up. Since you can’t head up, the true wind direction must also have changed.

Upwind: When to Use (and When to Ignore) Your Race Compass

Getting the numbers and interpreting changes are only the first steps. The hard part is using your compass data with all the other information, including your observations of the wind, your competitors, your overall strategy, and your predictions about what will happen next. Here are some thoughts from the experts on how to solve the puzzle in various scenarios.  

Oscillating breeze

In an oscillating breeze, with minimal changes in wind velocity across the course, you can simply sail the lifted tack, tacking when headed below the average heading. Waiting until you are headed below the average is very powerful. Many sailors tack at the first indication of a header and others follow. This is the herd mentality discussed in the first quote at the top of the article. For more on sailing in an oscillating breeze, see our post on Sail the Lifted Tack – How and When?

Persistent shift

In a persistent shift, you must sail toward the direction of the shift. You may have to sail a header to get there. However, it’s better to take the header early, rather than later, when the wind has shifted even further. So, in a persistent shift, ignore your compass and sail toward the shift until you are closer than your competitors (but not past the layline).

Most race courses are a combination of oscillating and persistent shifts, with variations in velocity across the course. The strategy here is to connect the dots and sail conservatively. Here are some tips for using the compass in these conditions.

Connect the dots

The overall strategy for hybrid conditions is to “connect the dots.” This means finding the breeze and then sailing the lifted tack. Work your way up the course by sailing toward the next shift or puff. In this scenario, you may have to take some headers to get in the breeze. Just don’t sail a big header for too long unless you’re certain it will pay off. See our post on  Upwind Strategy: Connecting the Dots  for more.

Don’t get too far to one side

If you get too far to one side, you will lose a lot in an unfavorable shift. On big water, use your compass to help you from getting too far to one side. When sailing away from the center, tack back on smaller headers. When sailing toward the center, only tack back to the sides on larger headers. See our post on  Race with Consistency – Ted Keller Comments  for more.

Sail to the advantage, but not all at once

As the race develops, various areas of the course will become advantaged. You can sail to these areas by footing, pinching, or taking slight headers to get there. Let’s say you are sailing a long lift, but see boats behind and to windward that are beginning to lift above you. Unless you see more wind ahead, you probably want to take a hitch to windward. One way to use your compass is to tack when you are on the least lifted heading. Then tack back when you reach the new wind or get a header.

If you have to go a longer distance toward an advantage, try doing it in stages, taking headers when least costly, and tacking back when you are too far headed.

In flat water with stable winds and minimal steering, a 5° shift will be noticeable and possibly worth tacking on. With difficult conditions, such as waves or highly variable wind, your compass readings will show a lot of noise, and you may not want to act unless the shift is 10° or more. 

Bearing to leeward mark

Determine the bearing from the windward mark to the leeward mark before the race starts. If you can head down to the leeward mark bearing as soon as possible after rounding, you’ll sail the least distance.

To get this number, add or subtract 180° to/from the bearing from the start to the windward mark. Example: Bearing from start to windward mark is 75°. Bearing to the leeward mark will be 255° (75 +180=255)

Sail the headed gybe

The rule of thumb for downwind sailing is to sail the headed gybe. The headed gybe is the gybe that takes you closest to the leeward mark when sailing at your preferred angle to the wind. This usually easy to see visually without a compass. On longer courses, you can use your compass bearing to sniff this out more quickly.

Get approximate average wind direction

Sailing downwind, you can also get an approximate average wind direction. This might come in handy if you don’t have much time before the race and are sailing down to the starting line. To make this work, you must be able to judge when you are sailing dead downwind. A mast-head fly is much better for this than shroud telltales, but in either case, you should test on both gybes if accuracy is important.

Permanent shift

If a permanent shift occurs, you need to adjust your numbers for average wind and heading on each tack. Sailors that focus on the race compass and the old numbers will lose big after a permanent shift. Two ways to do this:

• Watch your upwind headings on each tack and try to determine a new average.
• On the downwind leg, try to determine the new average by sailing dead downwind for a few moments.

Pre-Race Routine – Get a Leg up on the Competition – shows a detailed pre-race routine including compass use; input from Roble/Shea Sailing.

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Velocitek Shift: Reviews, Calibration Procedure, Bracket Issues

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Best Sailing Racing Compasses

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 7, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• A boat compass is ideal for any sailor out on the water in the event that you become lost
• Calibrating a compass is not difficult but you should consult with the manual beforehand
• A boat compass can damage over time so be sure to check reviews for good ones
• Some sailing compass brands come with brackets while others have various options
• It is important to understand how it works before attempting to purchase one

‍ A sailing racing compass is an important tool in sail races and on the water in general. But what are the best sailing racing compasses?

The best sailing compasses for racing would be TurnOnSport, Plastimo, Ritchie Navigator, and Detuck. Sailing compasses vary in mounted types or handhelds. You can find a perfect compass for racing since there are plenty of options to consider.

Base on my previous experience a lot of marine compasses vary in style and their intended use so each brand will cater to a certain sailor. Depending on the type of boat and racing you are conducting then the type of boat compass will likely differ.

Table of contents

‍ 10 Best Sailing Compasses for Racing

Sailors need a trustworthy boat compass for a variety of reasons but especially in racing. There are many different types of sailing compasses that could work for you based on your budget and desired sailing goals.

TurnOnSport Boat Compass

If you have never used a boat compass before you will be pleased with the quality of TurnOnSport’s boat compass. It can stick or be mounted virtually anywhere but is ideally meant for marine use. It is corrosion resistant and it comes with a shield to block out sunlight.

• 12V power supply to light up
• Magnetic and easy to install
• Might not be sticky enough to stay in place
• Needs a flat surface when trying to stick

Plastimo Contest 130

Plastimo offers an easy to read boat compass that can be seen from just about any angle. You do not have to worry about it getting beat up since the dome is scratch resistant and is also UV protected. It is ideal for boats over 30 feet but can still accommodate smaller ones.

• Scratch resistant
• Easy to read with a crystal clear display
• Can fit to bulkheads
• Might be difficult to find at times
• Higher price point

Ritchie Navigator BN 202

Ritchie Navigator makes an excellent compass like the BN 202 for example. It is proven to withstand a variety of sailing conditions and is arguably one of the best designs among sailing compasses. It is also equipped with an inclinometer to help with steering and windward.

• Comes with night light so that you can travel long distances overnight
• Inclinometer to help with steering
• Five year warranty
• Might be an expensive compared to other brands
• Slightly larger than other compasses

Boat Compass by Detuck

Detuck enters the boat compass game with a cost-effective alternative to other major boat brands. At just under $20 you can have a good quality tactical compass without having to break the bank. It also arrives with a magnetic declination capability so that you can improve the compass accuracy over time.

• Has magnetic declination to be more accurate
• Comes with a money back guarantee
• Backlight enables you to see in multiple lighting conditions
• Cannot be left in the sun for too long
• Plastic might not hold up in rough conditions

Lewmar has a few options for racers trying to find a top quality compass in their boat. Their 135 model comes with a hood that helps protect it from sunlight. It also has a sapphire jewel pivot to allow you to read it from any angle clearly.

• Two different options to mount it
• Ideal for larger sailboats that use 24 volts
• Easy to read compass card
• Might take a while to get it

COSTIN Compass

Costin is one of the best marine compasses out there for the price point. This is a great tactical compass that can also be used in marine conditions which is perfect for sail racing. It is easy to carry and store when not in use.

• Rugged and sturdy even if dropped
• Less than $16
• Comes with pouch for easy carrying
• Might not be the most accurate
• Instructions can be difficult to understand

100BC Compass by Silva

Silva might have the sleekest and smooth design for a sailboat compass. It can be mounted in a variety of positions and read from nearly any angle. It also has illumination capabilities so that you can see it in dark environments.

• Multiple mounting options
• Has protected cover
• Easy to read no matter the angle
• Price might be a little high for some
• No angle for heeling

Clipper Compass

The Clipper compass system is an electric tool that helps with direction. It has seven different levels of lighting so that you can see in all light conditions. It also has an alarm that will go off if you stray off your preset course.

• Various lighting options to read in any condition
• Easy to read
• Alarm to help you stay on course
• Need to keep on battery supply
• Cannot see it in some angles

Odowalker Marine Compass

Odowalker is another entry level compass that you can use for a variety of applications. It comes with an incandescent light to help you see in dark conditions and is easy to read. It is also made out of ABS material and can withstand some shock.

• Adjustable to see from various angles
• Multiple uses outside of sail racing
• Need power supply in order to use backlight feature
• Might need to adjust accuracy when it arrives

Autonautic Deck Mount Compass

The Autonautic CHE-0074 model provides accurate directions on larger boats. It is designed to allow more graduations so that you can see the numbers better. It is also one of the more durable and reliable boat compasses.

• Fairly expensive but has five year warranty
• Has graduation markings to see better
• Best for a steel boat
• Fairly expensive
• Meant for a larger boat

What to Look for in a Sailing Compass

There are various factors you should take into consideration when attempting to buy a sailing compass. You would likely want to read user reviews and potentially test one out yourself to get a feel for what you need.

In addition you should also narrow down your sailing goals to determine what is going to work best for your situation. Buying a sailing compass simply because you think it looks cool is not going to help your situation out on the water.

Size of the Compass

In my experience you should aim for a sailing compass that has a large diameter. It needs to be able to fit properly onto your dashboard at the helm so that you have and easier time reading it.

If it is large enough you can read the numbers easier when the boat is in rough conditions. It does not necessarily have to have a backlight but that would help especially at night.

Various Mounting Options

Depending on the type of boat and the sailing compass you choose it might have different options for mounting it. Various mounting options exist for those that want to mount it a certain way.

Space on the Dashboard

This installation is simply on the dash of your boat if applicable. You will need to cut out and fit a section of the dash in order to keep it secure and it makes it permanent.

Flat Surface Areas

Installing on the surface is likely the easiest and quickest since you can simply place it and be done. A surface mount can either be flat somewhere at the helm or horizontally at the best spot. This also prevents you from having to cut out a section of the dash.

Using Brackets

If your sailing compass comes with brackets this will allow you to place anywhere you desire with some installation required. A bracket mount will typically allow you to move the compass slightly to get a better read and is ideal for placing in vertical spots.

Mounting it Flush

A flush mount installation is where you cut a hole in your dash and expose just enough of the compass to read it. Some sailing compasses are more attractive looking when you install it this way but it does take a little more time than standard surface installations.

Binnacle Mounting

Choosing a binnacle mount is another option that is referred to as a “little house” for the compass. This helps keep it out of the elements or sunlight and are typically larger.

A majority of the sailing compasses you see on the market have a backlight and it is a handy feature if you are in lower light conditions. You will likely need to have it close to a power supply for a lot of these but some come equipped with a slight illumination already to make it easier to read.

Various Types of Dials

There are a few dial options to consider when selecting your sailing compass. Each one could appeal to you based on the way you prefer to read it.

Direct Dial for Upright View

A direct dial has the lubber line in an aft position and are best suited for helms that are closer to eye level when sailing. It is recommended that you have plenty of experience reading this type of dial since it requires some knowledge beforehand.

Dial with Flat Card

A flat card dial has to be read while you are standing or sitting in a seat above the helm since it features a horizontal face. The lubber line is forward so you would need to have the right angle when looking at it.

Hybrid dials are likely what you are thinking which is a mix between direct and flat. These allow you to read the compass from nearly any direction. These are best if you are needing to see the direction from any part of the boat and if you are newer to reading a compass.

Your Knowledge

If you have never used a compass before it will likely take a slight learning curve to get used to it. Consider purchasing one that you can either read from any direction or has simple but precise markers in order to get an accurate reading. Sailors that have plenty of experience might be able to read any compass no matter the quality.

How Does a Sailing Compass Work?

A compass is an essential tool for your boat to help guide you safely during any event at sea. This is especially important because if your power fails on your boat you can use your compass to help navigate back to safety.

How it Operates

Beneath the compass card is a tiny magnet that keeps north and south in line with the help of the Earth’s magnetic field. The compass is encapsulated with a fluid to help keep it stable upon moving on the boat. These are typically an analogue compass but some digital ones do exist usually as a handheld version.

Deviation Process

Deviation is a term used to describe when a compass is thrown off of its accurate reading due to other magnetic influences or too much metal interfering with it. You will need to read the manual or check with a qualified professional to help get it back in check.

Various Styles

Your boat will likely need a specific compass to make it worth the investment. As mentioned a binnacle compass is best for when the view is above and it is likely mounted on the wheel.

Smaller boats that utilize tiller steering are best suited with bulkhead mount that are located at the front of the cockpit. These also generally help with determining the angle of the heel the boat is experiencing.

In other words you should conduct the proper amount of research to best fit your needs. Your budget and boat type will play a crucial role in determining the best one. Your sailing experience can also make an impact on the buying process to help find the best tactical scale on the water.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Tiller Steering Vs. Steering Wheel on a Sailboat

By Danny Cruz

Given that I grew up sailing on boats with tillers, namely Sunfish and Hobie Cats, I have lately been inclined to wanting something different – A giant stainless steel steering wheel. But which is better?

As you’ve probably guessed, neither is necessarily better, they are just different. A tiller and a steering wheel both possess a number of pros and cons.

About Danny Cruz

Publisher of FloatWays, Danny Cruz is resourceful creative designer, lover of the ocean and all things that float.

What Makes FloatWays Unique For You and Why You Should Stick Around

We love boats! We love everything about boats! FloatWays is dedicated to the art of boating and sailing. Whether it be in the ocean or the lake, we are devoted to the lifestyle and all the joys that come from being on the water. We are people who have practically been raised aboard boats. At the same time, FloatWays believes in being humble, friendly and down to earth (er … More

Sunglasses Guide for Boats

At FloatWays we pay a lot of attention to the visual aspect of the water activities in which we participate. This means we are focused on enjoying our outdoor life by making sure we have the best optical clarity and sun protection we can get. Not only that, but we like to look good while doing it. We've created this sunglasses guide for that very reason. As we look into what the market has to offer for functional and stylish sunglasses and review them on FloatWays, we'll … More

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Why Some Sailboats Have Two Helms (Dual Helms Explained)

While most sailboats have a single helm with a steering wheel in the center, some larger sailboats or racing boats may have two helms. So, why do these sailboats have double helms? Are there any practical benefits of two helms on sailboats? 

Some larger sailboats have two helms as it helps with steering from different angles and can make handling a larger sailboat much easier. Racing sailboats have two helms to execute tight turns at faster speeds. However, some sailboats have two helms for aesthetic purposes. 

This article will explore the practicality of a sailboat having dual helms, whether it’s necessary and whether a sailboat or yacht with two steering wheels has better handling. It will also look at why some smaller sailboats have twin helms. 

Table of Contents

Why Do Large Sailboats Have Two Helms? 

While smaller sailboats will often have a single large steering wheel in the boat’s center, larger boats often have two smaller helms. Usually, one helm is located on the starboard side and the other on the port side. 

Large sailboats have two helms because it helps give more control over the boat. A double helm also allows sailors to see both sides of the jib, giving them more visibility when controlling sailboats with bigger hulls. 

Sometimes a large hull or other objects can block your vision on one side when sailing. This is much more of a problem on larger sailboats since they have a larger hull. Having a separate steering wheel on either side of the jib can give you more vision and may help you steer the boat in poor visibility. 

Some large sailboats may have two rudders controlled by separate helms. Depending on the wind speed and other weather conditions, you may prefer to use a certain wheel. This helps steer larger boats in areas where you have to make tighter turns. 

So, while smaller sailboats typically have one centered helm, larger ones will often have two for better steering options. 

Why Do Racing Sailboats Have Two Helms?

Racing sailboats have two helms because it helps them navigate tight turns at higher speeds. Having two helms is advantageous in shifting weight in competitions where the margin for error is low. 

Despite being lighter and smaller than some cruise sailboats, racing sailboats will have two helms. In a typical sailboat race, the crew will constantly shift sides to navigate obstacles and turns without compromising on speed. A double helm is beneficial in such cases as it allows for weight shifting and tighter steering control.

The double helm design became popular in sailboats, and many smaller cruise boats copied the design, even though it may not be practical when cruising. 

Do Two Helms Help With Steering on a Sailboat?

It’s not only large sailboats and racing boats that have twin helms. Many smaller sailboats also feature a double helm design, even though both wheels control a single rudder. So, does having two helms always improve the steering? 

Two helms may help steer large sailboats, but they are used more for aesthetic appeal on regular cruising sailboats. A double helm makes the boat look more like a racing sailboat, even though they provide no practical use in smaller cruising boats. 

So, if your cruise boat has two steering wheels that control a single rudder, the only advantage is increased visibility. However, some boat experts recommend having a single wheel on cruising boats as it is much easier for beginner sailors to control. 

Which Is Better: A Single or Double Wheel Sailboat?

Single and double helm sailboats both have their benefits and drawbacks. Single wheel boats are easier to handle and more beginner-friendly, while bigger sailboats with two steering wheels can make tighter turns at high speed.

However, quite a few factors will determine whether a sailboat needs a single or double wheel. These factors include control, maneuvering, and safety. 

Dual Helm Control 

A single-wheel boat is generally better in normal circumstances when it comes to having greater control. It helps you position the boat relatively straighter, allowing you better management of the boat with minimal effort. 

However, a double-wheel sailboat is much more effective in controlling the boat in rough weather. The wheels are usually placed high up on the boat, and you can use wheels on different sides of the centerline for better steering control. 

Double Helm Maneuvering

A double helm boat is much easier to maneuver and can cut sharp turns at higher speeds than a single helm boat. This is more effective in racing sailboats, but many cruise sailboats have this feature for better speed control. If you’re going at a faster speed, you’ll likely feel much more secure with two helms on the boat.

Twin Helm Safety

Some experts claim that a double wheel sailboat is safer since it gives you better control in rough weather. However, this would only be beneficial for bigger sailboats since an additional wheel won’t significantly impact the control in a smaller boat.

So, if you are looking for a bigger sailboat, try to get one with twin helms. Otherwise, single helm boats are just as effective.  

Why Do Some Sailboats Have Two Sails? 

In addition to having two helms, some sailboats have twin mainsails as well.

Some sailboats have two sails as it helps them go faster by increasing the sail area exposed to wind. A double sail also helps with maneuverability and can help the boat navigate right turns. Two sails are also ideal for cruising with the wind currents. 

In most double mainsail boats, the two sails will be used to cruise in good weather conditions and can increase the overall speed and maneuverability of the vessel. However, handling two or more sails requires experience and skill. 

Why Do Some Sailboats Have Two Helms – Conclusion

Most racing sailboats and some regular sailboats will have two helms for better speed control and maneuverability. Larger sailboats usually have two wheels for better visibility and safety. Double helms are more beneficial when navigating rough weather conditions or sailing at high speeds. 

However, not all boats that have twin helms need them. Some have them to enhance the design and the second wheel has no practical purpose. If you are looking for a large sailboat or one for racing competitions, choose one with two wheels. Otherwise, a single helm boat will work just fine.

Bryan is a Las Vegas resident who loves spending his free time out on the water. Boating on Lake Mohave or Lake Havasu is his favorite way to unwind and escape the hustle and bustle of the city. More about Bryan.

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Tiller vs. Wheel

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I learned to sail by racing, and am very biased to a tiller - I like the feel and response with a tiller. I''ve sailed with a wheel as well, but only enough to know there''s a difference - not enough to develop any appreciation for steering with a wheel. I''m wondering what the trade-off''s are and if I could learn to appreciate the wheel or if I''d regret leaving a tiller, as I''m considering buying up to a bigger boat (30-37'') and many are equipped with wheels. Any comments on the subject? Thanks.  

Paisan, your theoretical 30 footer might weigh 4-5 tons while your theoretical 37 footer might weigh 9-10 tons. In addition, you could be sailing with a semi-balanced blade rudder, a partial skeg rudder (semi-balanced or not) or a barn door rudder with a full skeg. I don''t see how a general opinion about tiller or wheel (the latter offering greater mechanical advantage along with a host of other attributes and compromises) will help you when you begin narrowing down your search. Better to approach it the other way around: first, which boat...and then, is there even a choice? (Usually there isn''t). Jack  

Took me a couple days to get used to a wheel, at first everything seems a little backward somehow, really like it now.  

I also learned to sail and race with a tiller, and have always felt that I got good feedback through the tiller, but if a tiller was the only way you could race a boat efficiently, you''d see tillers on the big racing boats instead of those huge twin wheels. Using a wheel is very intuitive. The first time I ever used a wheel, I felt comfortable with it right away, and felt nearly as efficient as with a tiller. Also, I believe the wheel makes it easier to maneuver around the docks and to use spring lines, especially if you’re short handed. For example, when docking, you can secure a spring line, lock the wheel and use the engine to hold the boat in position while you attach the other lines. You can do the same with a tiller if it is set up for it, but it’s more awkward. What I’m trying to say is that, when you’re docking a smaller boat, you can just muscle it into position. When you’re docking a big, heavy boat, you need to use the motor to move it into position, and the wheel facilitates that.  

Tiler vs wheel is a tough one...best answer is "It depends". As Whoosh pointed out, the design has a lot to do with it. A poorly "balanced" design can hide that a little better with a wheel than a tiller. Cost is also an aspect to concider. You will find that as the boat gets bigger, the ones with a tiller are less expensive. I think many people are afraid of larger boats with tillers. Less of a market for them. You also have the fact that as the size and displacement of the boat increases, so do the potential loads, necessitating a longer lever (tiller) and you have something that is taking up a good deal of "swing space" in the cockpit. When motoring, propwash can put a great deal of steady torque on the tiller, tiring the skipper if an extended period of motoring is required to get somewhere. I have sailed on boats as large as 42'' with a tiller, and as I said, a well balanced design is the key there. But in a blow, we would go 1/2 hour stints at the stick to prevent fatigue. My 37'' sloop has a tiller, is an especially well balanced design, and a joy to sail. I do go out on the race course from time to time, and I think the tiller gives me an edge driving to weather. I also get a kick out of watching some "experienced" sailors eyes go wide when they take the "stick" for the first time on a large boat. But I damaged my left rotator cuff when I "had to" get somehwere on a cruise, with no wind, and my tiller pilot went on the blink. The steady heavy "helm" from the prop wash on the rudder did me in. (I now have a back-up tiller pilot just in case) At the dock, or at anchor, I flip the tiller up and out of the way and get a nice uncluttered cockpit. With a wheel, Edson makes a quick release knob that does the same thing. You also have less to worry about with a tiller, no cables or linkages or anything else to maintain. Less complexity means less to have "Murphy" meddle with. Also less weight in the stern. But wieght can be addresed with the newer composite systems that Edson has on the market.  

The steady torque on the tiller during long motoring sessions can be eased with as many bungie cords as it takes to eliminate (most of) the load.  

My opinion...I''ve never sailed a wheel that had the feedback a tiller does...no matter what the system. Tillers give more cockpit space and are simplier to maintain. Overall I feel wheels are good for motoring and tillers for sailing. I think balanced rudder designs are difficult to incorporate into hull designs so the mechanical advantages of wheels are the reason we see so many. I think wheels are given more status by the yacht club crowd too. My biggest wheel boat was 42''x 18k lbs while the biggest tiller boat was 42''x 24k lbs. I once sailed on a 52'' schooner with outboard rudder and 9'' tiller. The crew had to clear the deck (no footwell) every time we tacked. The boat owner always complained about the tiller and he had shortened it at 9''! Tiller are my first choice but wheels don''t keep me from buying. Fins and skegs do that.  

I have heard alot of talk around about "big boat small boat which is best for learning" In my mind it should be tiller wheel, and the tiller is by far more important for learning than boat size. With a tiller you feel what the boat is doing. Much of that is lost with a wheel. I have sailed my "big boat" 29 foot Lancer tiller steered, and my friends 23 foot Hunteralso tiller steered. Yes the smaller boat gets kicked around abit more bit still it''s that tiller that I feel the boat and there isn''t that much differnt in the way those tillers feel in my hand.  

I have a 40''IOR design with a tiller. The advantages I have are: (1) I can turn her on a dime when in tight spots, like in an unfamilier marina. (2) Most of the time I don''t need the auto pilot. I''ve set up adjustable bungee''s so when she''s on a reach or closehauled I adjust''m up until she sails herself. (3) I can lift up the tiller when in port or on the hook and have more space in the cockpit. (4) Less worries about maintenance. (5) Auto pilot takes less energy. (6) I can feel the weather helm better and make adjustments. Which makes it sail more efficently. Disadvantages: (1)When backing you can get pinned between the tiller and bulwark. (Don''t ask!) (2) The Second Mate gets confused when under stress. (Don''t ask!) (3) When at anchor in rough weather you have to make sure to secure the tiller or it''ll bang back and forth. (4) Not just anybody can steer the boat.(high points on this one) One disadvantage to the wheel for me is you can only turn as sharp as the wheel locks allow. And you have to usually have to go up and around to get in the cockswains seat.  

Missing for me in this discussion are two elements: How much racing vs how much cruising the boat is going to do and How skilled and dedicated to "going to the edge" are your crew. I have sailed with both tiller and wheel. I would never want a tiller on a boat that I was going to take on a long cruise (defined by me as 12+ hours or longer without a stop.) I would also prefer a wheel when I have unskilled guests aboard. They adapt to it better. For racing, that is another story. Yes, the feel of the tiller tells you a lot more. A quick check of the 300 sailboats in my local marina indicate that the race boats (around the bouy type, not long distance type) have tillers. Everyone else has wheels. I suggest that is because wheels are much more comfortable for casual crusing. And most people do far more casual crusing than racing. This also suggests that tiller boats that are not pure racers would have a lower resale value than a wheel boat of the same make (e.g. our Catalina 42 MK II.) Yes it is true that a wheel can obscure sail trim, but if you have some way of knowing amount of weather or lee helm you can trim quire successfully with a wheel. Our autopilot has a helm angle indicator that works even when the autopilot is disconnected. We have used it to learn trim. (We are still doing a lot of learning!) But even a knot tied around the wheel at 0 degrees rudder works quite well. In summary, I suggest that going fast is much more a function of knowing your sail trim, your polars, and your crew than choosing between a tiller and a wheel. No matter what you can feel in the tiller its all about the trimmers, not the steering (at least not until you reach a level of racing far above mine.) My 2 cents. Worth what you paid for it!  

"I would never want a tiller on a boat that I was going to take on a long cruise..." This observation caught me eye because I''ve just about reached the opposite conclusion. Of course, this is within the context of cruising a 10-11M, 6-8 ton boat vs. one of the larger/heavier boats that seems to be preferred these days. Why would I want to move to a tiller? For long-distance cruising, crew are rarely steering the boat, instead relying on one or more forms of self-steering...so in that regard, the type of steering is incidental. Why the preference for a tiller? First, it''s a far simplier, more bullet-proof system if properly built, something that goes a long way in blue water. Also, it requires little maintenance. Blue water boats demand lots of checks, adjustments & wear-related replacement; the more I can cut down on this, the better. (I almost never checked by Edson steering system. Thinking of going offshore got me very serious about that system and, as it turned out, with good reason on multiple occasions). Third, despite spending this last season in Scandinavia, most of our cruising is done in temperate climates where a cockpit is often the ''living room'' and sometimes the dining room. Folding up the tiller improves the functionality of a cruising cockpit immeasurably. Fourth, I''m sold on a wind vane being the best single self-steering system offshore; it''s relatively simple to repair, becomes stronger when you need it to, as conditions deteriorate, and it''s independent of the electrical system. And wind vane systems have the least control line lossss and simplest arrangements when working with a tiller. And fifth, one can easily add inexpensive accessories to reduce both the loading and the tending of a tiller, making it user friendly. I realize not everyone sees this preference the same, and Zepher''s quite right to talk about an absence of tillers among cruising boats in American marinas, and a lessened resale value when a cruising boat is equipped that way. We Americans just want a wheel, period. On just about any size boat, and despite the ergonomics of the cockpit suggesting it''s a lousy choice. But this isn''t at all a common view and one only has to cruise in Europe to appreciate how highly regarded tiller steering is, and how refined tiller-type steering has become. And these folks in some cases sail many, many miles at a time because their seasons are short and their cruising goals are usually quite ambitious for their 2-3-4 week summer holiday period. This doesn''t make their preference for a tiller ''right'' and our wheel fetish wrong, but it does illustrate that there''s more to a good helm than a big wheel. Jack  

Incredible feedback. Thanks folks... Please do not let this response take this full circle and kill the conversation, but I have to acknowledge my thanks and make a few comments: To Silmaril and Woosh - I heard you both say in your posts (hope I interpreted correctly) that 2 pro''s for the tiller are and an advantage steering to weather, and the reduced "Murphy Factor." Those are at the top of my list too. To DelmarRey - great input, thank you. We think alike, you wouldn''t be an engineer too, would you?? Billpjr - I agree with you! In fact, I think the single biggest reason wheels are so popular is the "yachtie factor." I am an engineer working in the marine industry, and while I''m not a yacht designer, I can''t believe "design limitations" are the reason we don''t see more tillers on larger boats. Over a certain size, the loads have to get ridiculous and it becomes a "design preference", or a "favorable trade-off" of course, but I can''t believe there are limitations in designing-in balance per se. SVZephyr44 - Thank you, appreciate your reminder about quick, responsive turning in tight quarters... I remember trying to turn a tight corner in a marina in wheel-steered 36''. I thought it would spin forever - long after... I... hit... that... CATAMARAN!!! In summary - If its the "decision point" on the next vessel, I''ll be more confident in compromising to a wheel, but the input here encourages me to keep tiller-steering in the "pro" column. Not sure if everyone reading this will agree with my conclusion, but that''s what I get out of it. Sincerest thanks for all the feedback!  

Paisan, No I''m not an engineer, but the next best thing. A Mechin-ic (Maintenance Machinist/Toolmaker)35 years worth. As for the tiller, the thing I like to do that catches the eye, is when I''m looking for a spot to drop the hook. I find just the right spot then I pop it in neutral, crank the ole tiller to 80 degrees and the boat spins around on it''s fin keel about two - three rotations and comes to a dead stop right where I want it. The nice thing about a wheel is everything can be mounted right there. ie. Compass, motor controls, GPS, wind/water instruments and radio mic all within reach. Much like a powerboat. With the tiller everything is scattered all around the edges of the aft cockpit..........._/)  

Del & the group: "The nice thing about a wheel is everything can be mounted right there. ie. Compass, motor controls, etc.... With the tiller everything is scattered all around the edges of the aft cockpit" We''ve had the good fortune to see a LOT of N European sailboats now. In the 8-12M range, I find it interesting (and instructive) how three basic design features have become default standards, among many different types of manufacturers. They each are very fucntional: 1. The ''standard'' Euro layout: quarter cabin opposite aft head (which can be more easily used underway), forward facing chart table opposite ''L'' galley, and opposing settees with center table, then V-berth forward. 2. Fractional sloop rigs 3. Tiller-steering in the cockpits with instrument clusters having a home in their own pod, on the centerline and above the companionway. The only exception to this might be an autopilot control unit, since reaching for a button on it makes such a location somewhat awkward. Otherwise, large digital displays make this location quite functional. It eliminates the obstruction they can be when on a pedestal, and the displays are viewable from anywhere in the cockpit (even when cowering behind the dodger!) rather than being viewed only when at the aft end of the cockpit. Jack  

I have to strongly agree with Jack on this that a tiller is very preferable on a resonably modern boat that is less than 12 meters and that it is only US prejudice for wheels that make them so common over here. With a tiller it is easy to place the controls where they fall easily to hand while on the tiller and also placing instuments on the bulkhead or on a pod over the companionway, allows you to see both the jib slot and your instruments. Placing instruments on the wheel pod makes them only visible to the helmsman when motoring. A tiller also has the advantage of allowing you to move around the cockpit using the tiller extension so that you can make adjustments and still keep a hand on the helm. Jeff  

Jeff & the Group: "Placing instruments on the wheel pod makes them only visible to the helmsman when motoring." Errr...that last word...could that have something to do with wheels on American boats, do we think? Jack  

Jack: Have you found that we in the States tend to use our motors more than they do in Europe? I know that Europeans tend to have longer holiday''s than we tend to have and so might feel less of a time crunch than we tend to. On the other hand I understand that Eurpoeans generally make longer hops and overnight passages which seems to be less common in the States. The Europeans also seem to tend more towards higher performance cruisers more than we do.I think they also have more consistent winds then we tend to have at least on the US Atlantic Coast. They also have higher fuel costs. All of that would suggest less engine hours per hour underway. Have you observed that to really be the case? Regards, Jeff  

I have wondered if the American preference for certain features such as wheels isn''t related to how you come into sailing. Could it be that a higher percentage of cruising sailboat owners in Europe learned in a dinghy? Looking around our harbor, most people have jumped right into big boats. For someone like that a wheel is vastly preferable. That could explain a lot.  

I am not sure whether it is a matter of a wheel being ''vastly preferable to people who start sailing on big boats'' or that people who start sailing on big boats simply have not experienced how vastly preferable a tiller can be. Jeff  

Jeff, we are saying the same thing. People who have no experience with tillers don''t undertand how nice they are, and therefore they prefer wheels. My question was whether a higher percentage of American sailors have not used a tiller compared to Europeans. Getting back to the original question, I agree with the advantages listed for tillers. They are sweet, especially upwind. I have raced single handed without an autopilot, using a tiller with a line strung around the deck. Jibed the chute steering from the foredeck by pulling the line. Wheels have their points though; prefer a wheel driving downwind in big seas, or motoring with a rudder that kicks sideways from the prop wash. Like almost everything with boats, pro''s and con''s, take your choice.....  

Dumping Wheel for Tiller - Am I nuts? I have a Caliber 28. A tight t-shaped cockpit with a bridgedeck, wheel and pedestal. I sail alone 90% of the time, but feel out of control behind the wheel. I can sit on the coaming, wheel in hand, between tacks, but it's the tacks and jibes that worry me. I can reach the genoa winches, have to bound up on the seats to go forward or return aft, and still feel out of touch with cabin-mounted halyards/reef lines/mainsheet. Grew up on Highlanders / 420s / Flying Scots / catboats, here in Boston. Would prefer to trim mainsheet at a traveler just aft of bridgedeck. Would prefer to jibe the mainsail facing the traveler, with the tiller between my legs. I think I'd feel more in control than I do now and, again, I usually sail solo. Refitting this winter, finally sailing south in the spring or summer. Have all the dimensions, have worked out the drawings, but still questioning my wisdom (about cockpit changes!). The great replies in this tiller-vs-wheel thread have helped me to consider many additional POVs. For instance, I hadn't considered your observations on motoring -- and my rudder isn't balanced. One answer: I'd carry two tillerpilots, bungees and would reallty like a windvane. Still, I'd appreciate anything you have to say...  

I'm glad to see this post because next season I'll be on a tiller boat & it looks like I'll have to learn to drive it. I'm a bit nervous because I have very little tiller experience, but I'm always willing to learn something new. Thanks for the post & the information/feedback.  

The mechanical advantage you get with the wheel can be a pro or a con. I'm comfortable with either. I think the most significant advantage a tiller has is the cockpit space. I've banged my elbow into the wheel while working on something and cursed that thing to death. Or a knee. I think I need to look into that quick disconnect thing.  

It really depends on the displacement, not the LOA, of the boat you're talking about. TP 52's have tillers. Old 40' One tonners have tillers. If you like lighter boats, particularly those with high aspect spade rudders, you're more than likely going to enjoy the responsiveness of a tiller, and the better it will work with the boat. The greater the displacement, the more sense a wheel makes. Why do most boats in the marina have wheels? Many owners don't come from boat owning families or dingy racing backgrounds. A wheel is easy. It's like your car. For many who come to sailing later in life, a tiller will always feel a little odd unless you're really willing to work at your sailing skills. Personally, I like the mechanical simplicity and feel of a tiller. That said, if I had a 43-44' boat that weighed 25,000k lbs or so and was doing a lot of auto pilot cruising/passage making, a wheel would be fine. Instrument pods on a wheel? Hate'em. No one can see them except the driver. And what do you do when the self-steering or AP is one? It stinks having to run back in the rain, spray, cold, etc... to catch a glimpse of the holy pod. Drives me nuts... that's just me. You're mileage may vary.  

Tiller.  

till till death!  

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A sailboat helm wheel has an especially large diameter since steering such craft requires more effort than a powerboat, which is faster and is often equipped with hydraulic steering.

Wheels can be stainless steel or aluminum, made of wood or of composite materials, usually carbon. Some models fold back on themselves to free cockpit space.

Wheel steering allows the person at the helm to stand, affording a better view forward and of the sails, as well as requiring less effort than tiller steering. Wheel diameter will depend on available cockpit space and the force required to move the rudder blade. The larger the wheel, the more leverage it offers and the easier steering becomes. Choose lightweight materials such as carbon for racing boats. Match the design to the rest of the craft, wood for a traditional sailboat, for example. Verify that the steering column or the wheel's hydraulic pump is compatible with equipment already in place.

- Allows for stand-up steering - Precise steering - Less tiring than a tiller

- Requires costly, complex rudder linkage - Occupies cockpit space - Less feel than with a tiller

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VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry’s wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country’s leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month’s Passenger Vessel Week.

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Tags: Emperium Filka Moscow Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development Moskva River Presnya Russia Sinichka WBW newbuild

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