anchor size for sailboat

Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

On this page:

How does an anchor work, loads and forces on an anchor, anchor construction materials, most common anchor styles, how do i choose an anchor, what's in your anchor locker, picking the right anchor ground tackle.

Instead of getting overwhelmed, if you do a little research upfront on what you might need you can narrow down your choices and get the best anchor for your boat and where you use it.

While it may seem obvious at first glance, there are many mistaken assumptions about just how your anchor holds your boat to the bottom. It's important to understand just what your anchor does when it's holding your boat, so you know why you may choose one anchor or another.

All anchors dig into the bottom. Some have aggressive, plow-like forms or scoops which burrow in quickly, others have various hooks, spikes or protrusions designed to catch and hook as soon as the anchor is pulled.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

• Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

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How To Choose The Right Size Boat Anchor

March 06, 2017 1 Comment

"How do I choose the right size boat anchor?"

Choosing the right size boat anchor can depend on several things that we will cover in this section.

The conditions you will be in, and the manner in which you use your boat all determine how you should choose the right size boat anchor.

Generally if you have a boat 22' or less, you have several options, since you aren't likely to be out in 25-30 mph winds in that size boat - so our 7 lb, 10 lb, or 14 lb could be chosen for boats 22’ or less. But it is recommended that you carry the largest anchor you can feasibly fit on your boat.

The following things should also be considered regardless of boat size:

-(1) Is this an offshore boat? Or for lakes, rivers, inland waters, etc? -(2) Will you anchor overnight, or just day trips - then back to shore? -(3) If the weather takes a turn for the worse, will you be close enough to head back to shore? Or will you ride out the storm on anchor? -(4) Are you anchoring in very deep water? If so, then perhaps using an anchor one size up would be best, and allow you to set the anchor even faster, and with less line.

When choosing the right size boat anchor, it is recommended to select it based on the 30 mph wind rating if it will be used as your primary front anchor.

The chart below can be used as a starting point based on your boat size. You can choose from several different models depending on the conditions you'll be in, and the storage space you have.

This anchor does require chain - also available for purchase with all our products .

- 7 lb anchor - our most compact model, generally for moderate conditions, and not heavy current - i.e. day trips on small bodies of water (boats up to 22') This anchor can also be used as a stern anchor for boats up to approximately 27 feet to prevent rear swing. (Never drop any anchor from the stern as the primary anchor facing into the wind or you risk taking on water)

- 10 lb anchor - for boats up to 19' in winds up to 30 mph. It’s a step up in size & weight, with a longer handle for penetrating hard bottoms. Generally boats in this size range have the smallest storage compartments in the bow, so storing it in a different compartment might be necessary. More info here on anchor storage.

- 14 lb anchor - for boats 20-27 ft in winds up to 30 mph. Typically boats in this size range have larger compartments, however the anchor lockers can still be narrow. You can also choose the folding rollbar model.

- 18 lb anchor - for boats 28-34 ft in winds up to 30 mph. Boats in this size usually have large anchor lockers, or the anchors are mounted on the bow with an anchor windlass, anchor roller, electric anchor winch, etc.

- 22 lb anchor - for boats 35-42 ft in winds up to 30 mph. These boats also usually always have the anchors mounted on the bow with an anchor windlass, anchor roller, or manual roller, etc.

If you have any questions about choosing the right size boat anchor, feel free to contact us via e-mail.

July 21, 2017

Thanks for sharing! It can help me choose the right size boat anchor.

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Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..

Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.

The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.

Playing Hooky

Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:

• Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use. For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
• Where You're Going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
• Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

Anchor Types

There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy Anchors

A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.

Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.

Grapnels Anchors

Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Anchors

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.

When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or "BRUCE" Anchors

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.

Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".

Line and Gear

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.

Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist

Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.

Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.

Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.

Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.

Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.

Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.

Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.

Minimum Working Rode Sizes

Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.

Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.

Setting Anchor

Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

• Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts or current changes.
• If your crew is not already wearing PFDs, have them put one on before going forward to set or retrieve an anchor or mooring.
• Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once tossed overboard.
• Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
• After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set, and then continue to release the rode.
• Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on the bow cleat.
• Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to the size of your boat.

Staying Put

It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.

Picking Up a Mooring

One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.

Common Anchoring Mistakes

• Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
• Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
• Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
• Approach a mooring from downwind. This will give you better maneuverability as you go to secure your boat to the ball.
• Go slow, so as not to disturb those already moored.
• After putting on PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boat hook to grab the eye or the base of the mooring ball.
• Once the mooring ball is at the bow--slow, stop or gently reverse engines to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information if it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.
• Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Pay attention to the possibility of chafing. You may want to use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the one provided is dirty.
• Some moorings may have an antenna like device called 'whip.' This is simply an extension of the ball so you don't have to reach as far to haul in the mooring line.
• Once secure, let the boat drift back and be sure that you are clear of those who have moored or anchored around you. There is no need to 'back down' on a mooring ball.
• Leaving a mooring is easy--just motor or pull up gently to the ball and release the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to clear yourself of the ball and the associated ground tackle.

Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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Anchor Sizing

When sizing an anchor or anchor rode, it’s useful to have starting point and to think of the whole system. This is a table developed by American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) to approximate the expected load on the anchor and the anchor rode for given wind speed and boat length. The complete table appears in Section H-40 of ABYC’s Standards and Technical Reports for Small Craft available at abycinc.org.  The below table was created more than 50 years ago and it is not clear exactly how it was derived. After comparing this data in this table to work that has been done since we come to the conclusion that the values presented here represent loads expected on the anchor rode if anchored on chain only without the use of the snubbing system.  And using a line rode or and adequately designed snubber you can reduce the loads by a factor of 3, by eliminating the shock loads. This is an argument for why its so important to use a snubber but when sizing anchor rode or your anchor, it is important to consider loads as stated in the table. The reason is that we can not rely on the integrity of a snubber in a storm.  Should the snubber fail, the integrity of the rode should be sufficient to handle the loads without the snubber.

The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table

How do you intend to use your boat? Do you sail only on calm days with fair weather (Lunch Hook) or are you outfitting for an adventure (Storm) where you might be exposed to hazardous weather at anchor? For example, if you are outfitting a 35 foot boat for you should size the working rode and anchor to safely handle loads up to 1,800lbs if planning a cruising adventure, but the same margin of safety is not necessary if operating day trips from the safety of a marina.

When making sizing recommendations we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor, in doing so we try to envelope high sustained winds (45 kts) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).  Some may think these recommendations to be too conservative especially when compared to sizing tables from other manufacturers. Companies often make claims of superior anchor efficiency, stating that their small anchor X will outperform a much heavier anchor from their competitors and often use sizing charts as a marketing tool to that end, recommending anchors and anchor systems that are dangerously undersized for their intended use.  Comparing surface area can be a good judge for potential holding capability.  Our anchor sizing recommendations are presented in the table below:

ANCHOR SIZING GUIDE (Click to enlarge)

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The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Comparison Chart is compiled from individual manufacturer recommendations and highlights how similar the suggestions are across various designs.

How to choose your Anchor Weight by Manufacturer Recommendation

• Find the column below that best represents your Boat Length Overall.
• Compare your displacement with the tonnage listed.
• If the displacement is greater than displayed in your column in the table, or the yacht is a multihull, consider moving across to the next column to increase the diameter.
• Consider the worst-case scenario for your anticipated Anchoring - this will dictate whether you go for the minimum required or the ocean cruising approach
• Consider the manufacturer sizing parameters listed below the tables 
• Compile a short list of potential anchors to consider

Rex Francis has set the Anchor Right parameters for the Sarca Excel in a slightly different format. However, it can still be compared with other anchor designs with a little interpretation.

SARCA Excel Parameters - Length and Displacement Anchor Right Advisory - If your boat is over the limit in either column, it is advisable to upgrade to the next size. Upgrading one size for a multihull or long-term anchor dependent cruising would also be considered good practice.

Most anchor manufacturers publish a recommended weight of anchor by either the length overall or a combination of length, displacement and windage.

Some top manufacturers also include weather conditions and distinguish between monohulls and multihulls.

The top manufacturers are generally conservative and specify more criteria to help you choose.

The authority of each manufacturer recommendation may be judged by several factors: reputation, personal experience, research, the number of relevant factors taken into account, and the amount of detailed information they publish on the subject.

The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Chart collates the recommended sizing for all the anchors we offer on our website and highlights how similar the recommendations are. Interpretation is still required, e.g. multihulls, high windage profile and extreme weather.

Anchor Sizing Parameters by Manufacturer

A more detailed explanation of how the data for individual anchors is presented and how it is collated into the Comparison Table follows:

Galvanised and Stainless Steel Anchors

Rocna, Vulcan and Rocna Mark2, Galvanised and Stainless Steel - Length and Displacement

Rocna/Vulcan recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

Quote from their Fitment Guide - ”our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all conditions. We base our calculations on 50 knots of wind, associated surge, and poor holding bottoms.”

Mantus Mark 1 and 2 – Length, Displacement and Wind Speed

Mantus Quote - “we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor. In doing so, we try to envelope high sustained winds (50 knots) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).”

Mantus publish a chart in three categories – “Lunch Anchor category is recommended for lighter use, expected winds under 30 knots, working anchor for winds under 50 knots and finally, storm anchor recommendations are intended for winds above 50 knots.”

N.B. The Jimmy Green Comparison Table is derived from the Mantus middle category.

Spade Galvanised and Stainless Steel – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

UltraMarine Stainless Steel – The UltraMarine Anchor Size Guide considers multiple factors. Their comprehensive approach includes Length, Displacement, Mono/Multihull and Windage Profile criteria.

Lewmar Epsilon, Delta and Claw – Length only

Lewmar guidelines are illustrated in a shaded colour range by length only, so you need to judge displacement, i.e. light, average, or heavy, compared with similar length yachts. If the answer is heavy, upgrading to the next size is advisable.

Plastimo Britany – Length only

Plastimo Quote – “Anchor weight per boat length is only given as an indication. However, your anchor selection should also recognise the specific construction of your vessel.”

Using a lightweight anchor goes against the traditional belief that weight is one of the most critical factors in holding power.

Fortress Quote – “Fortress design does not depend upon weight to provide world class performance.”

However, the most popular application for aluminium anchors is as a convenient, high holding power secondary or kedge anchor.

Fortress/Guardian – Length only

Fortress Quote – “Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.”

Spade Aluminium – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls.

Spade Quote – “Aluminium version not recommended for use as a primary anchor.”

Lewmar LFX – Length only

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Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes

Anchoring is a crucial aspect of boating, and the right anchor can provide stability, safety and peace of mind for any sailor. Choosing the correct type and size of anchor is essential, as it can greatly impact your overall experience on the water. This guide will outline the various types of anchors available, their ideal uses, and how to choose the right size for your boat.

Understanding the Purpose of Anchors

Anchors serve multiple purposes in boating:

• Holding power : Anchors are designed to provide holding power by digging into the seabed and creating resistance, preventing the boat from drifting.
• Temporary mooring : When a boat needs to be stationary for a short period, an anchor is used to secure it in place.
• Emergencies : Anchors can serve as a safety measure in emergencies by helping to control your boat’s movements in rough weather or if the engine fails.

Types of Anchors

There are several types of anchors to cater for various boating requirements and environments. The primary ones include:

Plow Anchors

Originally designed for large ships, plow anchors resemble a plowshare and offer excellent holding power in most bottom conditions, especially sand and mud. They work by digging into the seabed and maintaining a consistent grip. Plow anchors are popular among cruisers due to their adaptability, and they can handle a variety of wind and current changes.

Danforth Anchors

Also known as fluke anchors, Danforth anchors boast superior holding power in proportion to their weight. They’re characterized by their flat, sharp flukes and long shank that allows them to dig into soft substrates like sand and mud. However, Danforth anchors may struggle with rocky bottoms and can be challenging to set in grassy or weedy seabeds.

Claw Anchors

Claw anchors, also known as Bruce anchors, have three claws that provide holding power in a variety of bottom conditions. Due to their versatile design, they re-set easily when the boat’s position changes and can function with shorter scope, which is the anchor rode (chain or rope) payed out relative to the water’s depth. These factors make claw anchors popular among boaters, though their holding power may be less than that of plow or Danforth anchors.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors are useful for small boats in relatively calm conditions. As the name suggests, they’re shaped like a mushroom and utilize their weight to create a suction effect, embedding themselves into soft bottom substrates like silt or mud. However, they generally offer limited holding power in stronger currents or wind.

Choosing the Right Size Anchor for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate size anchor for your vessel involves considering factors like boat weight, size, and the windage (resistance to wind). Generally, anchor manufacturers offer recommendations based on boat length, but it’s essential to factor in your specific boat’s requirements and typical anchoring conditions.

Anchor Weight

Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it’s important to consider the type of anchor you’re using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.

Boat Length

Boat length is another crucial aspect to consider when selecting an anchor size. Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length.

Chain and Rode Size

The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode’s length to the water’s depth, is an important factor for the anchor’s performance. A common recommendation is using a 4:1 scope for temporary mooring and a 7:1 scope for overnight anchoring. Ensure the chain (the section of the rode closest to the anchor) is of suitable size and strength to prevent it from breaking under strain.

Final Thoughts

When selecting an anchor for your boat, it’s essential to consider the type, size, and the conditions in which you’ll be anchoring. Consult manufacturer guidelines and conduct thorough research on the options available to make an informed decision. A properly sized and suited anchor will offer peace of mind, ensuring your vessel remains securely moored during your adventures on the water.

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What Size Anchor Do I Need? (Anchor Size Chart)

When it comes to boat safety items, an anchor is non-negotiable. Your anchor size roughly depends upon your boat size, type, wind speed, anchor type, and anchoring conditions you encounter.

To be precise, pinpointing the exact anchor size for your boat can be difficult. Nevertheless, it is always a good idea to follow the rough guidelines provided by your anchor manufacturer.

For your convenience, we’ve compiled all the information you need to figure out the right size of anchor for your boat in this post. Let’s begin!

Table of Contents

What Factors to Consider Before Buying a Boat Anchor?

Types of boat anchors, anchor size chart, what size anchor do i need, what are some common anchoring mistakes.

1. Holding power

The holding power of an anchor is the pull force it must withstand in order to hold the boat of a given weight in place.

Holding capacity depends upon the ability of the anchor to dig, the soil measurements, and the shape of the anchor . Holding power also varies with environmental factors such as wind speed.

2. Anchor weight:

Besides holding power, the anchor weight is also a primary factor you should consider. The anchor must be heavy enough to be able to drag through the bottom so that your vessel stays put in a single place.

In fact, many suggest always taking two anchors on board with you at all times, especially if you anchor your boat overnight; one, a simple hook style anchor for calm water and weather conditions, and a heavy one that assures your boat safety even during stormy and turbulent conditions.

Nevertheless, many new generation anchors today rely on the design that offers the best holding power and not really on the weight of the anchor.

3. Type of seabed:

Some types of anchors are efficient for sandy or muddy seabed, while others might be the best in the case of rough and rocky bottoms.

Almost all types of anchors have impressive holding power in hard sand bottoms. However, in mud bottoms, anchors need to penetrate high in order to reach the bottom material.

Likewise, weed bottoms are truly challenging to penetrate for anchors. Therefore, the anchor weight plays a critical role in such a seabed type.

Overall, you must be aware of the seabed types that you’ll encounter along your voyage to be able to choose the right design and sized anchor for your vessel.

1. Folding Grapnel:

Folding grapnels features multiple tines to grab structures and are great to anchor to an area with rough or rocky bottom. These anchors are great for small vessels, inflatables, and jet skis and are recommended by many as secondary or emergency anchors.

2. Reef Anchors:

As the name suggests, reef anchors are great for coral reefs and rocky bottoms. Many boaters choose to hand-weld and DIY reef anchors .

3. Plough anchors:

Plough anchors have a single penetrating point attached to the central shank and are ideal for sandy, muddy, and weed bottoms. You might notice arched shank in modern plough anchor designs. As long as it gets a good grip, this anchor type is also great for rocky bottom uses.

On the other hand, plough anchors might not be the ideal anchor for loose bottoms, as it only gets dragged along the boat without any resistance.

4. Claw anchors:

Claw anchors have a broader scoop shape than plough anchors and are suitable for anchoring in a variety of sea beds. It is ideal for sandy and muddy sea bottom but also performs decent enough in rocky bottoms. Nevertheless, it isn’t a great anchor candidate when it comes to loose sand bottoms.

5. Fluke or Danforth anchors:

Fluke anchors feature two triangular-shaped flukes attached to the central shank to bury onto the sea bed. Due to its simple design and lightweight character, it is undoubtedly a great choice for small crafts.

The small gap in between the flukes in the Danforth anchor allows better grip onto the rough sea bed. Although the orientation of the flukes is changeable depending upon the seabed material, the ideal angle for maximum efficiency is 30 degrees.

6. Mushroom anchors:

Another great anchor for small vessels and dinghies is the mushroom anchor. Small mushroom anchors are ideal if you often anchor your boat to a river bottom. On the other hand, large mushroom anchors are used for mooring purposes.

7. Spade with roll bar anchors:

Distributed by brands such as Manson and ROCNA, a spade with roll bar anchors is designed to set fast onto any type of sea bed with impeccable holding power.

For your convenience, we’ve done all the research for you. Here are some common anchor types used in the US and the anchor weight recommended for them depending on the boat length.

Remember to take this list only for reference purposes and research for the accurate and updated recommended anchor size listed by your manufacturer. And, when in doubt or during stormy conditions, always go a size higher.

Note: Unless specified otherwise, the chart assumes an average boat weight , average bottom conditions, and typical environmental conditions, including wind speed. In the case of exceptionally long and heavy vessels, many brands such as Lewmar recommend the clients follow the relevant Classification Societies for instructions.

The standard calculation is 1 lb of anchor for each foot of the boat. Once you’re ready with this basal value, you can then adjust the anchor size by taking the instructions below to size up or down the anchor.

As per the rope, use three-strand nylon, and the minimum scope for your anchor must be 5:1. The scope value should be around 7:1 in case of heavy vessels.

The boat anchor scope is the ratio of the deployed anchor rode length to the depth of the water from the deck height to the bottom of the water body.

Likewise, the 6 ft chain for every 25 ft of water depth rule is also the golden standard. Moreover, anchors require at least one ft of chain every one ft of boat length for maximum efficiency.

Up your boat anchor size, regardless of the manufacturer’s recommendation, if you relate to any of the following scenarios.

• Your anchor rode is relatively lightweight.
• Your boat is relatively heavier than other boats with similar dimensions.
• Your boat is usually anchored in an area where weather change is unpredictable and quick.
• Your boat is big and wide relatively.
• The anchored area has a lot of windage.
• You’re planning an offshore sea voyage.

On the other hand, when it comes to sizing down your anchor size, the typical suggestion is that you don’t do it unless and until you check these conditions.

• You’re well aware of what type of seabed you will be anchoring your boat in.
• You never anchor your boat for a long duration or overnight.
• The wind speed of your sailing area never exceeds 10 knots.
• Your anchor rode is too big and heavy for your lightweight boat.

Now that we all know how to choose the right boat anchor size for your boat let’s have a brief look at a few common mistakes sailors repeatedly make while anchoring their boat.

• Losing anchor in a trip is definitely not a new piece of news to experienced sailors. Many forget to secure the anchor line to the boat and simply throw the anchor into the water body.

Given this, many experts recommend sailors at least own two anchors on board with them during their journey.

• The anchor line can be messy to deal with, given how long they are. Often, sailors or the person on the foredeck make the mistake of letting the anchor go with their foot wrapped in the rope. That’s a pretty risky scenario.

Remember that when it comes to boat anchors , the bigger, the better unless the weight of the anchor is too heavy for your boat or it is too difficult to retrieve manually.

Also, for multihulls, many brands, including Spade and Rocna, suggest the buyers to up the size than recommended in the guide.

We hope you could form a clear idea on your head regarding the sizing of the boat anchor you require after reading this post. Let us know in case of any more queries!

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Sizing A Boat Anchor

• By Lenny Rudow
• July 20, 2022

While many mariners don’t look at an anchor as a piece of safety gear, that’s exactly what it is. If you lose power and are drifting towards a jetty, need to grab some shut-eye, or have to keep the bow into the waves without burning through your fuel supply, that anchor becomes critical. And just like having properly sized life jackets aboard is imperative, having the properly sized anchor for your boat is a must too.

Sizing the right anchor for your boat depends on a number of variables:

• The size of your boat.
• The types of areas you generally go boating in.
• The type of anchor you carry.
• The range of conditions you generally go boating in.
• The amount of anchor rode you carry.

Boat Size and Anchor Size

Obviously, larger boats need larger anchors. However, since there are a number of additional variables to be considered beyond boat size, there’s no hard and fast rule as to what size anchor matches up with what sized boat. Most anchor manufacturers publish their own recommended size table or chart, indicating how their specific anchor design relates to anchor size and boat length. These are a helpful guideline, but they shouldn’t be considered the final word because as a general rule of thumb bigger is better. So, if your boat size comes in at the periphery of the recommendations for any given anchor manufacturer’s guidelines, it may be best to err on the side of going larger.

Types of Areas You Boat, and the Type of Anchor You Carry

These two variables are tied together, because the areas you cruise in will have a bearing on the type of anchor you choose. And since different anchor types have different levels of holding power, there’s a spillover effect when it comes to choosing size. Let’s use a fluke anchor versus a claw anchor as an example. Fluke anchors dig into sand and mud, but the claw works far better on rocky bottoms. So you’ll have to choose between them depending on where you go boating and which bottom type you’re likely to encounter. But when we look at the sizing chart for a manufacturer that provides both types, some discrepancies become apparent. For a 50-foot boat, a 21-pound, 10-inch by 5-inch by 28-inch fluke anchor is recommended. In the case of a claw anchor, however, the very same manufacturer recommends a 66-pound, 21-inch by 16-inch by 33-inch model for the very same boat. So, the type of anchor being used has made a measurable difference in the anchor size being recommended.

The Range of Conditions You Go Boating In

If you only leave the dock on fair-weather days, don’t go far from home, and only use your boat in protected waterways where rough conditions aren’t an issue, you probably don’t need to carry as large an anchor as boaters who venture into open waters in strong winds. This is another case where there’s no hard and fast rule, and you’ll have to make a judgement call. If you push the envelope on weather and waterways, upsizing is a good idea. But if the opposite is true a smaller size anchor may do the trick.

The Amount of Anchor Rode You Carry

Just how much scope you’ll be able to pay out at any given time will impact on how well your boat’s anchor holds in most conditions and bottom types. Of course, this factor varies depending on how deep the water is too, so yet again there’s no one formula or rule you can refer to. That said, if you carry enough rode to set out a 10:1 scope everywhere you go, you can choose a smaller size anchor than you would if you could only set out a 3:1 scope.

Note that I say “rode,” not “line.” The anchor line is just that — the line. The rode is the combination of line and chain. If you have a significant length of chain at the end of your rode, or if it’s an all-chain rode, it will weight down the end of the rode somewhat and pull against the anchor in a more horizontal manner. In many situations with many anchor types (though not all), this increases the holding power of the anchor, and thus, allows a smaller size to accomplish the same task.

Choosing the Ideal Anchor Size

You’ve probably realized by now that there’s no one-size-fits-all answer to the question of what size anchor you need. The above factors need to be taken into account, and then a judgement call has to be made as to the appropriate choice. In some cases, you may also have limited choices due to stowage restraints. And in some other cases a particular model boat may have been designed to accommodate a specific type and size of anchor, a common situation with through-hull anchor arrangements, some anchor pulpits and some anchor lockers with integrated anchor racks. In all cases, however, remember that having the right size anchor aboard is far more than a matter of convenience — it’s a critically important piece of safety gear.

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Anchoring Made Easy: A Newbie’s Guide to Securing Your Sailboat

What is anchoring?

Anchoring is a fundamental aspect of boating that involves securing your sailboat in a specific location using an anchor and chain.

When you anchor your sailboat, you are essentially creating a stable and secure position for your boat, regardless of the wind or current.

Table of Contents

Can you anchor a sailboat anywhere?

No, you can’t anchor just anywhere.

• First and foremost, you need to be aware of any regulations or restrictions in the area you plan to anchor.

Some harbors, marinas, or waterways have specific rules regarding anchoring, and it’s important to respect these guidelines.

• In addition, you’ll need to consider the bottom conditions.

Anchoring in rocky or weedy areas can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat . Ideally, you’ll want to find a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors .

• Furthermore, you should avoid anchoring in areas with heavy boat traffic.

Not only can this increase the chances of collisions, but it can also make it difficult for you to safely drop and retrieve your anchor.

Choosing the Right Anchor and Chain Size

The size and weight of your anchor will determine its ability to hold your boat securely in place, while the chain provides additional weight and strength to keep the anchor in position.

So, how do you choose the right anchor and chain size for your sailboat?

• First, consider the size and weight of your sailboat .

Larger boats require larger anchors and chains to provide adequate holding power.

As a general rule of thumb, it’s recommended to use an anchor that weighs 1 pound for every 2 feet of boat length.

So, if you have a 30-foot sailboat, a 15-pound anchor would be appropriate.

• Next, think about the type of bottom you’ll be anchoring in.

Different anchor designs work better in different types of seabeds, such as sand, mud, or rocks.

For sandy bottoms, a fluke or plow-style anchor is often recommended, while a grapnel or claw anchor is better suited for rocky bottoms.

Picking the Right Spot to Anchor

Choosing the right spot to anchor your sailboat is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience on the water. Whether you’re planning a short stop or an overnight stay, finding the perfect location can make all the difference.

So, how do you pick the right spot?

• First, consider the depth of the water.

You’ll want to find a spot with enough depth to accommodate the draft of your sailboat, plus some additional clearance to account for tides or changes in water levels.

Consult nautical charts or use a depth sounder to determine the water depth in the area you plan to anchor.

• Next, assess the bottom conditions.

Look for a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors.

Avoid areas with rocky or weedy bottoms, as they can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat.

• Consider the surrounding environment as well.

Look for sheltered areas or natural features such as coves or bays that can protect from strong winds or currents . These areas will offer a more comfortable and secure anchorage for your sailboat.

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Preparing Your Sailboat for Anchoring

When preparing your sailboat for anchoring, there are several important things you need to do to ensure a smooth and successful docking experience.

Here are four essential tasks to complete before dropping your anchor :

1. Check your equipment: Before setting sail, make sure you have all the necessary anchoring equipment on board.

This includes an anchor, chain, and any additional gear such as a buoy or buoy line. Inspect your equipment to ensure it is in good condition and free of any damage or wear.

2. Secure loose items: Stow away any loose items on your sailboat that could become a hazard during the anchoring process.

This includes things like ropes , fenders, or loose equipment. Secure these items in designated storage areas or tie them down to prevent them from shifting or falling during anchoring.

3. Clear the deck: Remove any obstructions from your deck that could interfere with the anchoring process.

This includes items like cushions, coolers, or other personal belongings.

Clearing the deck will provide you with a clean and clutter-free area to work in when dropping anchor .

4. Prepare your crew: Brief your crew on their roles and responsibilities during the anchoring process.

Make sure everyone knows where to be and what to do when it’s time to anchor.

Assign specific tasks to each crew member, such as handling the anchor or controlling the helm, to ensure a coordinated and efficient docking experience.

The Step-by-Step Guide to Anchoring Your Sailboat

Follow these instructions, and you’ll be able to safely and effectively anchor your boat in no time.

1. Choose your anchor location

Before you start the process, select a suitable location to drop your anchor . Consider factors such as water depth, bottom conditions, and nearby hazards.

Once you’ve chosen the spot, approach it slowly and stop the boat when you’re in the desired location.

2. Prepare your anchor and chain

Make sure your anchor is ready for deployment. Remove any tangles or knots in the chain and ensure it’s securely attached to the anchor.

Double-check that the anchor is properly stored and accessible for deployment.

3. Determine the amount of anchor chain

Decide how much anchor chain you need to deploy based on the depth of the water.

A general rule of thumb is to use a ratio of 5:1 or 7:1 for the length of the anchor chain to the depth of the water. For example, if the water is 10 feet deep, deploy 50 to 70 feet of chain.

4. Drop the anchor

Carefully lower the anchor over the bow of your boat while paying out the chain.

Use a controlled speed and avoid letting the chain drop too quickly, as this could damage your boat or the anchor.

Make sure the anchor hits the bottom before releasing the chain.

5. Set the anchor

Once the anchor is on the bottom, put the boat in reverse at idle speed to ensure the anchor is firmly embedded.

Give it some time to settle and check that the boat is staying in position. Use a landmark on shore or your GPS to monitor any drifting.

6. Secure the anchor

Once you’re confident that the anchor is set, cleat off the chain or secure it to a bow cleat to prevent any accidental movement or slippage.

Double-check that the anchor is holding by slowly reversing the boat to put some pressure on the anchor.

• Congratulations! You’ve successfully anchored your sailboat. Remember to monitor your position and the anchor’s holding power throughout your stay. If you need to reposition or adjust the anchor, follow the same steps in reverse order.

How long can you be at anchor for on a sailboat?

In general, you can stay anchored for a few hours or overnight, but it’s important to check local regulations to ensure compliance.

Some areas have time limits for anchoring or require permits for longer stays.

Additionally, you’ll need to consider the weather forecast. If there are strong winds or rough seas expected, it may not be safe to remain anchored for an extended period.

What side of the vessel you should never anchor?

There is actually one side you should avoid at all costs: the bow , or the front of the boat.

Anchoring on the bow can lead to several problems and safety hazards.

Firstly, it can interfere with the boat’s steering and maneuverability, making it difficult to control the vessel in tight spaces or when approaching docks .

Secondly, anchoring on the bow can cause the boat to swing in unpredictable directions, especially when wind or currents change.

This can increase the risk of collision with other boats, docks, or hazards in the water.

To avoid these issues, always anchor your sailboat off the stern, or the back of the boat. This allows for better control and maneuverability, as well as a more stable anchoring experience.

Additionally, anchoring off the stern keeps the bow free for easy boarding and disembarking, making your sailing experience more convenient and enjoyable.

What happens when a sailboat drag anchor?

When a sailboat drags an anchor, it means that the anchor is no longer holding the boat in place.

This can occur for several reasons, such as changing wind or current conditions, a poorly set anchor, or inadequate anchor line length.

As the boat starts to drift, it can potentially collide with other boats, docks, or even run aground.

In this situation, it’s important to act quickly and calmly.

First, assess the immediate surroundings to determine any potential dangers or obstacles.

Then, try to reset the anchor by moving the boat in the opposite direction of the drift and dropping the anchor again.

If this doesn’t work, you may need to find a new anchorage or consider alternative methods, such as using a second anchor or seeking assistance from nearby boaters.

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PS Advisor: Sea Anchor Sizing

As with most anchors, size does matter..

I read your interesting article, “Best Tested Sea Anchors,” in the Feb. 1, 2005 issue. I applied the sizing tables from each of the manufacturers you cited, and came up with very different size recommendations. My vessel is 40 feet and 26,000 pounds. Fiorentino recommends a 12-foot Para Anchor, and Para-Tech recommends an 18-foot Sea Anchor. How do I know which size is right? Do these different size

Photo courtesy of Para-Tech

anchors really produce the same amount of drag?

Stan Weed Twin Diesel Tollycroft 40 Via e-mail

While most sea anchor manufacturers may use similar formulas for determining the right size sea anchor for a boat, other factors must be considered, including the weight of the material used in the anchor and a boat’s windage. Ultimately, what matters is that the anchor can displace enough water mass for your size boat.

It’s a good idea to select a sea anchor, and then use that maker’s criteria to determine what size you need for your boat. If you have questions or concerns, contact the manufacturer for clarification.

According to Don Whilldin, president of Para-Tech (maker of the Sea Anchor), the company figures Sea Anchor sizing based on a boat’s length, displacement, and type. If the result is on the line between two sizes, Para-Tech recommends going with the larger size.

“We like to see the Sea Anchor (

www.seaanchor.com ) displacing about two times the boat’s displacement,” explained Whilldin. “A 12-foot Sea Anchor displaces 22,400 pounds of water; 15-foot, 43,800 pounds; and 18-foot, 75,700 pounds. It is the water mass which is holding the boat.”

Practical Sailor

also spoke with Zack Smith of Fiorentino Para Anchors ( www.paraanchor.com

). Smith maintains that rode tension is the big secret in successfully using and sizing a parachute sea anchor.

“Rode naturally stretches under force until it becomes taut. As force is reduced, rode becomes relaxed,” Smith wrote us. “What we want to avoid is too long a period of rode slack because this leaves a vessel-swinging beam to, where waves can heavily roll the boat or in rare circumstances, cause it to fall back on the rudder(s).”

One way to get and maintain more rode tension is to deploy a larger anchor; however, this also makes retrieving the anchor more difficult. In order to get more tension out of a smaller anchor, Smith suggests paying out shorter lengths of rode, adding a small length of chain next to the parachute, or flying a riding sail to increase vessel windage.

For more on storm survival gear, check out Lin and Larry Pardey’s “Storm Tactics Handbook” (

PS , January 2009), which delves deeply into sea anchors, and our sea drogues evaluation on pages 24-30 of this issue.

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Rocna Anchors Sizing Guide

There’s a rocna original, rocna mk ii, or vulcan anchor to suit just about any vessel – including larger sizes not featured here. to choose the correctly sized rocna or vulcan anchor for your boat, follow the chart and instructions., anchor sizing guide.

For Multihulls: use the chart as instructed, then select the model one size larger.

Use the tabs to navigate between Metric Tonnes (t), Short Tons (T), and Pounds (lb).

Rocna Original & Vulcan

• Metric Tonnes

Rocna MK II

LARGER ROCNA ANCHORS

Our charts do not accommodate vessels requiring anchors larger than the Rocna Original 110 (243 lb) or Rocna Mk II 100 (220 lb). This is because of increasing complexities of the factors involved. Please enquire about larger Rocna anchor sizes.

Classification society rules and/or legal requirements may mandate anchor sizes for these vessels.

CLASSIFICATION RULES SIZING FOR LARGER ANCHORS

Rocna anchors may be sized by classification society rules for SHHP anchors. An SHHP type is usually permitted a mass 33% lighter than HHP types, or 50% lighter than “standard stockless” types. Classified sizing is based on a vessel’s type, purpose, and calculated Equipment Number (E.N.).

For more information, please consult the Rocna Knowledge Base articles on our sizing recommendations and classification and certification .

Our Anchor Sizing is Conservative

Unlike other manufacturers, our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all conditions. We base our calculations on 50 knots of wind, associated surge, and poor holding bottoms. For more on our philosophy and rationale, please consult our Knowledge Base article on our sizing recommendations.

This chart is a guideline only, so if you’d like further information please enquire with us for further advice.

The Rocna 150 (331 lb) and Larger

We do not provide standard recommendations for boats larger than those for which the Rocna 110 (243 lb) would be the recommended size. This is because of increasing complexities of the factors involved.

Furthermore, classification society rules and/or legal requirements are likely to dictate the anchor sizes mandated for these vessels.

Rocna and Vulcan Anchor Bow Compatibility

To confirm that which Rocna or Vulcan anchor will fit your vessel, there are a number of resources below to assist you.

Rocna Anchors Dimensions

Measurements important to the fitting of the anchor on a bow roller are reproduced on this sheet. Using these drawings and a tape measure, many boaters can easily determine that a Rocna or Vulcan will fit their boat.

Visit our Rocna Anchors Dimensions Page or Download as PDF here:

2023 Rocna Anchors Sizing

Rocna knowledge base.

The Rocna Knowledge Base features a large and ever-growing collection of “boat fit cases”, with photos and other information, under Rocna bow compatibility . Popular production boats are covered, and examples of other owners of your boat type successfully fitting a Rocna or Vulcan will allow you to invest with confidence.

Also included are articles and recommendations on the topic of custom bow roller assembly design .

Which Will Fit Best, Rocna or Vulcan?

Rocna anchors are intended to fit well on most vessels. The Rocna Mk II offers improved clearance vs the Rocna Original at the shank-end and the roll-bar. The Vulcan is specifically designed to fit a wider range of vessels with the omission of a roll-bar to clear anchor platforms, bowsprits, or prods.

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12 Best Sailboat Anchors for Any Sailor

Having the ability to anchor out inside a nice peaceful bay or right outside of a marina avoiding all the hubbub can be an amazing feeling.

It’s an even better feeling knowing that your sailboat is securely fastened using the best sailboat anchor so that you don’t start floating away when the tide or wind starts to shift.

There are a lot of amazing anchors out there that are potentially a great fit for you and your sailboat as a primary anchor.

Having a clear understanding of what makes a good, high-quality sailboat anchor from a trusted brand means you’ll be able to make a more educated choice when deciding which anchor is best for you and your sailboat.

The Best Sailboat Anchors

Depending on your style of sailing and the whereabouts you like to explore, you may need one sailboat anchor over another.

Based on my experience, there are a lot of great options out there to choose from, which is why I put together the following list of the best sailboat anchors.

1. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

One of the best sailboat anchors out there today based on being the best-selling anchor for yachts and workboats goes to the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor .

As one of the pioneering brands for sailboat anchors, the Rocna Vulcan was able to transform from the original Rocna anchor to the most dependable, best anchor out there today.

The Rocna Vulcan is actually a modified version of the original Rocna anchor, which was one of the most groundbreaking anchors to have been engineered and set the stage for the Rocna Vulcan.

The original Rocna anchor was designed in New Zealand back in 2004 and took the industry by storm. By taking the best features from more traditional anchor types, like the Bugel anchor and Spade anchor, it was able to set itself apart.

The Rocna Vulcan has a lot of fantastic features to it apart from being a very strong and powerful anchor. For one, it has the ability to dig into almost any type of seabed, which comes in handy when sailing in diverse locations.

It’s also relatively lightweight and easy to stow due to it not having a roll bar like its older brother, the original Rocna.

Another great feature is that it has no moving parts, so no one’s fingers have the chance of getting pinched.

When it comes to the construction material of the anchor, the Rocna Vulcan is a galvanized steel boat anchor, which means it’s very strong, long-lasting, and relatively inexpensive.

The design of this sailboat anchor allows for it to self-right itself when landing on the seabed and when being pushed around by currents and tides. It also comes with a lifetime warranty, so it’s guaranteed to last the lifetime of your sailboat.

All in all, the Rocna Vulcan is a great choice for any sailboat looking to anchor out.

Regardless of where you are, it’s highly likely you’ll be able to use your Rocna Vulcan to anchor and feel good that you have a popular, well-designed anchor manufactured by a trusted brand.

If you’re serious about getting one of the best boat anchors, definitely check it out.

2. Manson Galvanized Supreme Anchor

As one of the most famous boat anchors that were released when the original Rocna anchor came out is the Manson Galvanized Supreme Anchor .

As a matter of fact, this anchor came out in 2003 and is well known to this day as being extremely effective due to having a very high holding power, an effective roll bar, and an ability to settle to the seabed quickly.

You certainly cannot go wrong with a Manson Supreme anchor if you decide to get one. They have very high holding power, are able to dig into almost any seabed, have no moving parts, and are able to touch the seabed quickly.

While their major advantages are definitely the holding power and fast settling, this comes at the price of being rather heavy which can make stowing this anchor difficult at times.

3. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Anchor

Even though there are a number of modern anchor types that have taken the industry by storm, some of the more traditional designs still hold their weight to this day.

That’s why the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Anchor  is still on the anchor scene, especially since it’s been a hallmark anchor for a very long time.

There are a number of good reasons to go with this anchor by Lewmar especially the fact that it has a strong holding power in softer seabeds (like mud and sand).

It’s also relatively lighter than other sailboat anchors allowing for easy stowing and transportation. Another great quality is that it’s all one piece, so there’s no potential issue of pinched fingers.

The only downsides include that it sometimes requires a tripping anchor line to release it from the seabed and that it’s not ideal for hard seabeds or seabeds covered in kelp.

4. Spade Anchor S120 Galvanized Steel

Another well-known, traditional design for anchors is the Spade Anchor S120 Galvanized Steel .

This type of anchor has been around for quite some time and has proven itself as a worthy contender to even the newer, more modern anchor types.

It certainly set the stage for a lot of anchor designs today and it continues to shine even today.

The Spade anchor is a very popular style of anchor that was designed in France back in 1996.

It was based on the delta style anchor design in a way to achieve a similar grip power to the seabed but by providing an even large surface area contact to the seabed.

This sailboat anchor is lightweight and can dig into soft seabeds quite well making it a great fisherman anchor for most fishing boats.

One of the downsides is that it sometimes Spade anchors needs the assistance of a tripping line to remove it from the seabed.

5. Lewmar CQR Anchor

Of all the more traditional anchors out there today, one of the most famous that really shook the anchor industry is the Lewmar CQR Anchor .

Before the more modern sailboat anchors, the CQR anchor (or the plow style anchor generally) was the go-to anchor for many yachts and workboats.

If you’re looking for a classic, time-tested anchor, the CQR might be the anchor for you.

The CQR anchor was designed in the UK way back in 1933 and has been one of the most well-known anchors out there. It was known to be so secure (and it still is), that it was named CQR because it sounded like “secure”.

This anchor’s relatively lightweight, digs into the seabed quite well, and is rather versatile in terms of the texture of the seabed it can grip.

However, it does have some downsides including it being oddly shaped so stowing is more difficult, it has moving parts, and it sometimes requires a tripping anchor line to remove it from the seabed.

6. Lewmar Claw Anchor

Another great anchor that’s been around for a while is the Lewmar Claw Anchor , which has been known as either the Bruce or Claw anchor in the past.

The strong reputation of Claw anchors has been well-known in the anchor industry for a long time and is further proven due to being manufactured by the trusted brand Lewmar.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is a fantastic anchor to own due to it being relatively lightweight, strong, and inexpensive.

As a matter of fact, it’s one of the best sailboat anchors anyone can buy since it has a lot of positive advantages like it has no moving parts and it’s easy to remove from the seabed.

The only downsides include it having an odd shape, making it a bit more difficult to stow, and not being the best when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

7. Danforth S-600 Standard Anchor

There’s no doubt that even some of the traditional anchors still have a place in the best anchor category and that goes double for the Danforth S-600 Standard Anchor .

Similar to the CQR anchor, this anchor has been around for quite some time and was developed in the US back in the 1940s.

As a matter of fact, they were originally manufactured to be equipped with certain landing aircraft during WW2.

The Danforth anchor is an industry standard and has been a hallmark for many decades. They’ve been used as anchors for many types of vessels and are especially good for anchoring out in loose seabeds like sand or mud.

It’s also relatively lightweight and can be stowed easily since it’s pretty flat. Unfortunately, it has some moving parts to it, sometimes requires a tripping line to get it out of the seabed, and is certainly not ideal for more rocky seabeds.

8. Norestar Stainless Steel Danforth-Style Anchor

While the original Danforth anchor is a great choice for your next anchor, a step up in terms of quality is the Norestar Stainless Steel Danforth-Style Anchor .

While you’ll certainly spend a bit more money for this Danforth-style anchor, the design improvements ensure a safer anchoring and a longer-lasting product.

This Danforth-style anchor by Norestar provides all of the advantages of owning a traditional Danforth with some extras.

First, it has no movable parts so there’s no chance of pinching fingers while operating the anchor.

Second, it allows for anchoring off in seabeds that are rockier than the original Danforth can handle. It even comes in stainless steel, which means this anchor will last a very long time.

It does, however, still have the downside of at times needing a tripping line to release it from the seabed.

9. Norestar Stainless Steel Bruce Anchor

The Bruce anchor (also known as the Claw anchor) is a popular style of anchor that’s been used for a very long time.

There’s no question the Norestar Stainless Steel Bruce Anchor is a step up in the design of this anchor style, similar to how they improved the Danforth.

This Bruce/Claw anchor is a great choice for your sailboat’s next anchor since it has a good holding power for almost any seabed texture.

It’s also quite lightweight, has no moving parts, and it’s very easy to break it from the seabed.

Even better, it’s made out of stainless steel, so it’s built to last. Honestly, there aren’t too many downsides to this anchor apart from it being relatively expensive.

10. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta Anchor

The Norestar brand is amazing at taking the more traditional style of anchors and improving its designs to make them more attractive.

Well, they’ve done that once again with the Norestar Stainless Steel Delta Anchor .

The Delta anchor was already an improvement to the CQR anchor, but Norestar decided to take it to the next level.

The Delta anchor by Norestar is one of the highest quality stainless steel, delta-style anchors you could put on your sailboat.

Apart from it being stainless steel like the rest of Norestar’s anchors, it’s also lightweight, has no moving parts, and has a powerful holding power in softer seabeds.

However, it might not be the best sailboat anchor on seabeds with hard sand and it might require a tripping line to set it free from the seabed.

11. Mantus Galvanized Anchor

Some of the best sailboat anchors are originally derived from the more traditional sailboat anchors (in particular those with a roll bar), which is definitely the case for the Mantus Galvanized Anchor .

As one of the most well-known anchor types out there, this anchor manufactured by Mantus Marine stands out as a top contender for the best sailboat anchor.

This anchor by Mantus is produced with galvanized steel which makes it quite strong, inexpensive, and dependable.

With its uniquely designed roll bar, this sailboat anchor is able to properly land on the seabed when making its descent resulting in getting a better grip of wherever it ends up.

This anchor is specifically designed to break through dense grassy bottoms, so definitely a consideration when buying your next sailboat anchor.

12. Fortress Anchor

Sometimes it’s important to break free from the most well-known anchor brands and see what else is out there.

After stepping outside and digging into other anchor styles, I fell upon the Fortress Anchor , which is an aluminum fluke anchor that has a lot of common characteristics found in the traditional Danforth-style sailboat anchor.

The Fortress anchor has a very similar design to the Danforth but differs in the sense that it’s even more lightweight since it’s made out of aluminum magnesium alloy.

Some of the clear advantages that make this a candidate for the best sailboat anchor are that it settles quickly to the bottom of the seabed, it can be disassembled for easy storage, and it’s been tested to have double the holding power compared to its competition.

Downsides include movable parts, sometimes requiring a tripping line to remove it from the seabed, and not being ideal for rocky seabeds.

What to Consider Before Buying a Sailboat Anchor

We went over a good amount of high-quality sailboat anchors just now, so you should have a good idea of what anchor you might consider purchasing for your sailboat.

However, there are a few considerations to take into account before making that purchase, which is what we’ll cover now.

Construction Materials

You’ll find a number of different construction materials for anchors, like aluminum and steel, but by far the most common materials you’ll find is a metal anchor made of steel or aluminum alloy.

Galvanized Steel

Anchors made out of galvanized steel are often found to be less expensive and shiny compared to other types of anchor materials.

The great part is that they’re very strong and can last a very long time. Unfortunately, they’re prone to corrosion so it’s not uncommon to have to get them re-galvanized.

Stainless Steel

Anchors made out of stainless steel are very strong and aesthetically pleasing in terms of their appearance since it’s rather shiny.

You can’t go wrong with getting a stainless steel anchor, but you’ll definitely be forking over more money to get one.

Aluminum Alloy

Anchors made out of aluminum alloy are very lightweight compared to steel but often come at a much higher cost when going through the checkout line. However, when set correctly on the seabed, they’re known to have very high holding power.

Lakes vs. Coastal Waterways

Depending on where you’re sailing, you’ll need a certain level of strength to keep your sailboat from moving around while anchored.

Sailing in coastal waterways definitely requires a strong anchor than when sailing around lakes, so it’s generally advised to stick with the stronger anchors just in case.

If you know your sailboat will never leave the lake scene, go with a weaker (and thus cheaper) anchor.

Anchor Weight to Boat Length

You might’ve been wondering how strong your anchor should be based on the size of your sailboat.

Well, there’s no hard and fast rule to the exact strength (or weight) your anchor should have, but it’s definitely possible to determine a minimum weight to cover some worst-case scenarios when using your anchor.

A simple way to determine the minimum anchor weight of your sailboat is to subtract 5-10 lbs from every foot of your sailboat’s length overall (LOA). For example, if your sailboat is 40 feet long, then a 35 lb boat anchor would be a good weight.

This is a good rule of thumb when choosing an anchor weight for your sailboat, but should only be considered as an estimate and for minimum weight.

If the anchor you plan to purchase has a chart helping you decide on the proper weight to get, you should definitely follow that.

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Welcome to Worry-free Anchoring

When looking for an anchor you want to make sure it digs in the first time, buries deep, has high holding power and holds when winds or currents shift.

For sailboats we have taken every bit of windage, shape and weight distribution into consideration. This all affects how the anchor launches, sets and re-sets.

We have a good range of sailboat anchors to suit all boating adventures, keeping your family safe and ensuring your anchoring experience is stress free.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, where you plan to go sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. If you are not sure which anchor is right for you, use our simple anchor calculator – link below.

 Sailboat Anchor Range

Supreme Anchor (SHHP)

12 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs

Boss Anchor

11 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs

Racer Anchor

10 Sizes: 2.2 - 35lbs

Plough Anchor (HHP)

17 Sizes: 10 - 300lbs

Ray Anchor (HHP)

Sand Anchor

What size anchor do i need, the manson anchor difference, why buy a manson anchor.

Global Leader

We are the experts in anchoring. We’ve been doing this since 1972, that’s almost 50 years’ experience making anchors. We are the desired anchor brand, chosen by serious boaters all over the world; from the rugged coastlines of Western Australia, to Florida and the Mediterranean. You are in safe hands. 

Largest Range in the World

We understand the unique challenges of anchoring and we know all boats are not equal, so we design and build anchors to suit every situation – from small craft through to superyachts. Don’t settle for a standard anchor. Get the anchor that will be perfect for  your boating needs and keep you and your family safe.

Made in New Zealand

Our anchors are proudly crafted in New Zealand by Lloyd’s Register approved welders using certified Lloyd’s Register approved materials in a specialist facility. They are not  made cheaply in developing countries who have little respect for quality, the environment or what it means to anchor safely. This means you are buying a quality anchor that you can rely on.

We are trusted to make anchors for some of the best shipyards in the world who build exquisite superyachts and sophisticated defense vessels. This means that you’re buying the same brand selected by superyacht owners and their captains. Simply put, you are choosing an anchor from the world’s leading anchor brand. Anchor with the world’s best.

What our customers say about us

FLORIDA, USA

Thanks to my Manson Supreme I survived Hurricane Sally in Florida. As winds reached 110mph there was an incredible amount of force at work, but my 80lb Manson Supreme held my Roberts DS440 steel sailboat, while I watched boats around me sink. I was very impressed and grateful. When the winds subsided, we found we had bent shackles and bent rollers, but the anchor was in perfect condition.

Graham McKenzie

Wellington, new zealand.

In the 6 & 1/2 years we have travelled more than 45,000 miles, visited 26 countries, and have anchored at least 1000 times. We have yet to use any other anchor than our Manson Plough. It has been totally reliable in thin coral sands, in mud and in the treacherous grasses of the Mediterranean. Most of our cruising friends changed their anchoring tackle after disastrous anchoring experiences in the Med. Many were using locally made anchors. We never needed to consider a new option. The Manson also coped well in areas with strong tidal flow, such as the amazon with it’s 7 knot current. We have had the chain re-galvanized twice in the course of our travels, but the anchor is only just requiring attention. Thanks to you folks at Manson for an anchor that has truly passed the test of time… and distance.

NZ Trade and Enterprise

Auckland, new zealand.

Manson Anchors took a basic component of every boat, and considerably redesigned it to be not only aesthetically pleasing but a real feature on one of the best yachts in the world. This is a real skill and shows again New Zealanders’ ability to create a design that not only solves a problem but does so very eloquently indeed

Brian Holloway

New zealand.

We were just starting on our adventure, which turned into the most exciting six month trip I have ever undertaken. We travelled over 4000 nautical miles, completely circumnavigating New Zealand in the wake of Captain Cook. What was interesting in that in the whole of the six months we only spent 15 nights at sea. My aim was to see New Zealand, and we rock hopped visiting everywhere possible, and consequently anchoring most nights. I have a 35lb Manson Supreme holding a 35 foot catamaran, weighing 5 tons. We make a reasonable amount of windage. I felt that a 35lb looked a bit small, but in six months, on very varied types of bottoms there was not one night when we dragged. A marvellous anchor, that I would recommend to anyone.

West Marine

The Boss takes the performance of the Supreme and makes it conform to any bow-roller. The Boss works well on power and fishing boats that don’t work with the bow.

The winglets work as a bow-roller to ensure a reliable and quick setting anchor much like the Supreme.

This is an incredibly fast setting, high holding power anchor.

David Forester

Mississippi, usa.

I would like to tell you that 25LB Manson Supreme held my 23’ Pro Line Walk around like it was nothing. Where I anchored is a lot of sand, the anchor caught right away and the wind and waves that buffeted the boat around did not budge it. The fluke anchor I have would always slip, and I would have to reset the anchorage. I can safely say this is the best anchor I have ever had. I am so impressed I am looking into a smaller one for my stern (second) anchor.

Colin Goldsworthy

We were caught out at Wangaparpara in what I would call a cyclone. It caught us off guard. We had a lee shore, a short scope, in poor holding with only 2 meters under the keel. We had no time to put down a second anchor.

During the next two days we experienced extreme gusts coming off the hills with swell entering the Harbour. That evening there was 95 knots gusts recorded at Channel Island. Our boat is 48 foot, and has plenty of windage. She sails on her anchor. We would sail up, go broadside and then get laid over with the gusts and swell beam on. Your anchor did not budge. The first night I sat and anchor watched, but the second night I was more confident and I slept.

That night many boats dragged their moorings and ended up on the beach. Your Supreme Anchor is great insurance.

Big Angry Fish

The holding power of the Manson Boss will help you stay on that perfect fishing spot regardless of the conditions.

The Manson Anchor will dig in first time so you can get lines over the side straight away.

The sliding shaft is a great feature that makes it so much easier to retrieve the anchor from foul ground.

It is so important for every fisherman to have a good anchor onboard, we recommended the Manson Boss to everyone!

Brian Bearden

New providence, bahamas.

The Manson Supreme is reliable. Sets quickly, resets quickly, usually no more than the anchors length. Happy in mud, sand, grass. Best anchor we have ever had. Rode out hurricane Joaquin (25 miles west of the eye) anchor didn’t budge in sustained winds of 85 knots. We used this anchor as our main and storm anchor.

Tom McCallum

My 15lb Manson Supreme provided a heroic task in holding my 6 ton yacht all night in hurricane conditions in a bay with bad press on its seabed. Needless to say my faith in these anchors is profound and their design and tenacity legendary. I would use no other.

Aaron Dixon

I have toured the Manson factory on many occasions and have witnesses first-hand the quality of workmanship in full swing. The attention to detail they take in the selection of the metals, fabrication processes, welding and casting is amazing. Any vessel I own will always be fitted with a Manson Anchor.

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Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.

Use three-strand nylon rope, 6-12 ft (2-4 m) of chain and a minimum of 5:1 scope. Also, a minimum of 6 ft (2 m) of chain should be used for every 25 ft (8 m) of water depth. For storm conditions use an anchor one or two sizes larger.

Note:  Hard sand holding power figures above represent loads actually achieved on production Fortress and Guardian anchors under controlled horizontal pull conditions without dragging or resulting in disabling structural deformation.

FORTRESS ANCHORS

Mobile users please scroll to the right to find your boat length and anchor model selection.

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For all tech questions please email  [email protected]  and a Fortress Marine Anchors representative will respond in 24-48 hours.

Have questions? Check out our frequently asked questions page.

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Wing Delta Boat Anchor Sizing Chart

The chart below lists the recommended Wing/Delta Anchor Size for various lengths of boats. The anchor sizing chart below assumes average boat characteristics in average anchoring conditions. If you have an exceptionally heavy boat or are anchoring in exceptional conditions (typically greater than Gale force winds) you may consider going up one size of anchor or larger.

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How to Use an Electric Windlass Anchor System

• By Ric Burnley
• June 5, 2024

Anchoring the boat is one of the most intimidating skills to learn for a boat operator. Securing a heavy boat with a rope, chain and anchor in strong current, heavy wind, and crushing waves presents the opportunity for catastrophic failure. A tangled chain, snagged rope or dragged anchor can quickly put the boat and crew in danger. 

And retrieving the anchor presents even more dangers. Pulling the anchor free puts tons of pressure on both the anchor rope and boat. But mostly pulling in the anchor line puts a lot of pressure on bones and muscles. 

Using an electric windlass anchor system to manage the rope, chain and anchor removes some of the work from the process, but doesn’t eliminate the potential for damage and injury. Learning how to use an electric windlass anchor system takes the intimidation out of anchoring the boat. 

What Is an Electric Windlass?

An electric windlass anchor system consists of a motor that turns a wheel to retrieve and deploy the anchor line and chain, called the anchor rode. Unlike a winch , which uses a large drum to reel in line, the windless wheel grips the line and feeds it into an anchor-rode locker. The windless takes less space but a winch is stronger. 

If used or installed incorrectly , a powerful motor turning a metal wheel at high speed under the pressure of a heavy anchor line is a recipe for disaster. But with some safety steps and an understanding of how the system works, a windlass can make boat anchoring significantly easier. 

System Preparation

Like any mechanical device on a boat, the anchor, windlass and rode require regular maintenance and inspection. The anchor is handy for mooring the boat at sea, and essential for securing the boat if the motor loses power. 

Before each trip, I check the anchor rode and electrical connections, and then test the windlass controls by running a few feet of rode through the gypsy. One of most common failure points is the anchor rope or chain jamming the anchor windlass jaws. Before operating the windlass anchor system, be sure the anchor rope isn’t tangled or snagged in the anchor locker. 

Double check the chain stopper pin and windlass brake to keep the anchor rope from accidentally deploying. When I’m using the anchor windlass, I never leave it unattended. A small problem with an electric boat anchor system only takes a moment to turn into a big problem.

Deploying the Anchor

The first step to anchoring is selecting an appropriate location. Before releasing the anchor, check the area is clear of obstructions and other boats and away from navigation channels and hazards. Consider how the current and wind will affect the boat as it swings on the anchor. Then, check the fish finder and chart to determine the bottom composition and choose the correct type of anchor for soft mud, sand or rocks.

The key to safely deploying the anchor is checking the rope , chain and all connections. Frayed rope, rusty chain and faulty knots and links could cause a failure while deploying the anchor. If the anchor rode breaks while at anchor, the boat is set adrift out of control. 

When using an electric windlass to deploy the anchor, it’s crucial to verify that the rope and chain move freely through the windlass and lie loosely in the anchor locker. Inspect the windlass for rope or chain that’s misaligned or pinched in the gypsy.

To deploy the anchor rope, unhook the chain stopper and use the anchor windlass controls to lower the chain and anchor rope. The best electric windlass anchor systems have control switches at the boat’s helm near the windlass. This allows the windlass operator to watch the line and control the windlass to prevent tangles and jams.

Some windlass systems have a free fall setting that allows the anchor to drop without resistance. This is a great feature for anglers looking to precisely anchor over structure. However, the free fall mode will not control the speed the rope moves through the windlass, making it even more important to observe the line and chain for potential tangles.

Once the anchor hits bottom, the rate the rope leaves the anchor locker slows down or goes slack. The formula for anchor scope is seven feet of line for every foot of depth. To properly hold bottom in 10 feet of water, the anchor requires 70 feet of scope. This formula varies depending on the type of anchor, bottom composition and the weather and water conditions. In heavy current and high wind over soft bottom, let out more line to ensure the anchor sticks securely.

Once the anchor is secure and the boat is sitting safely, tie the anchor rope to a bow cleat by wrapping the rope a full turn around the base of the cleat and then crossing the bitter end of the rope around the cleat horns. Never use the windlass brake to secure the rope. The weight of the boat and pressure of the current and wind could cause the rope to jam or slip.

Retrieving the Anchor in Nine Steps

The windlass pays for itself when it’s time to retrieve the anchor. Instead of muscling the anchor rope into the boat, the windlass motor does the hard work. Just like deploying the anchor, the powerful motor and heavy anchor rope offer potential for damage or injury. Here are the steps you should follow to avoid any danger:

• Before untying the anchor rope from the bow cleat, start the boat motor. If the windlass motor fails or the rope jams or breaks, the motor controls the boat until the problem is solved. 
• With one person at the windlass controls and another person at the helm, unwrap the rope from the cleat horns. I leave the rope wrapped around the cleat base to manually control the rope. 
• Bump the boat into gear and motor ahead slowly. With pressure off the line, I unwrap the rope from the cleat and release it to move through the bow bow roller.
• Then, I use the windlass controls to retrieve the line. Maintain communication between the windlass operator and the boat operator. Move the boat ahead to feed line through the windlass. Never use the windlass to pull the boat or break free the anchor. If the anchor is stuck in the bottom, tie the rope off to the bow cleat and use the boat motor to pull the anchor free. 
• Once the anchor is free of the bottom, take the boat out of gear or motor ahead very slowly and retrieve the rest of the line. 
• While retrieving line, observe the line feeding into the anchor locker. Pile the line loosely in the anchor locker so it can dry and it is ready to redeploy.
• When the anchor chain reaches the windlass, slow the retrieve to ensure the rope to chain link passes through the windlass. If the splice sticks in the gypsy, deploy a few inches of rope and realign the chain in the gypsy. 
• When the anchor reaches the surface of the water, slow the retrieve to allow the anchor to lodge in the bow roller without swinging and damaging the boat.
• To prevent the anchor from accidentally deploying, insert the locking pin through the chain and reverse the windlass a couple inches to take pressure off the mechanism. 

Safety Considerations

Using a windlass makes anchoring easier but not simpler. The mechanism takes the work out of lowering and raising the anchor, but the power of the mechanism increases the risk of damage or injury. Always keep in mind that the windlass is a very powerful machine capable of crushing bones and ripping skin. 

Here are some important tips to follow while using an electric windlass:

• Keep hands, feet, long hair and dangling clothes away from the spinning windlass gypsy. Also, keep away from the rope as it feeds through the windlass. 
• If you need to clear rope in the anchor locker or free a jam in the windlass, stop the motor before moving in to work. The windlass operator needs to observe the rope and chain and control the speed of the windlass to maintain proper working pressure on the gypsy and keep the line and chain feeding smoothly through the windlass. 
• Never allow the windlass brake to hold the boat on anchor or secure the anchor rope while underway. Always cleat off the anchor line while the anchor is deployed and be sure to pin the anchor chain while the boat is underway. The windlass brake is only designed to stop the rope and chain, if the brake fails, the anchor could deploy accidentally. 
• Always insert the locking pin when the anchor is stowed and tie off the anchor rope when the anchor is deployed. And stay clear and alert when the windlass is operating. 
• To keep the windlass running properly and further avoid damage or injury, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintaining the moving parts and electrical connections. 
• To extend the life of the anchor rode and anchor, allow the rope to dry in a well ventilated anchor locker and wash and clean the chain and anchor between uses. 

Explore Your Electric Windlass Anchor Options

For small boats a windlass is a convenience, for large boats a power anchor system is a necessity. On any boat, a windlass makes the anchor easier and safer to deploy and retrieve. 

A vertical windlass is more powerful but takes up more space. A horizontal windlass requires less deck space, but is more difficult to install. A windlass with a low-profile gypsy and a drum allows the motor to handle heavy rope and chain. The best windlass rope and chain packages use a spliced connection to keep the windlass working correctly. 

What size windlass do I need?

Choosing the correct size windlass depends on the size and weight of the boat and the expected anchoring conditions. Manufacturer guidelines help match the size of the windlass to the boat’s length and weight. However, if you plan to anchor in heavy current, big waves and high wind, using a larger windlass will provide more power to match the anchoring conditions. Another consideration is the physical size of the windlass. Check to make sure the windlass base will fit in the mounting location and the anchor locker will accommodate the anchor rode. 

Do you have to tie off a windlass anchor?

Yes. The windlass is used to deploy and retrieve the anchor rope. It should not be used to pull the boat or secure the anchor. Use the boat motor to propel the boat towards the anchor and use a cleat to secure the anchor rope. When the anchor is retracted, a locking pin keeps it in place so it doesn’t accidentally deploy.

How do I choose an anchor windlass?

Two choices for an anchor windlass: vertical and horizontal. The name refers to the gypsy axle running horizontally or vertically to the boat’s bow. A vertical windlass has the drum or gypsy mounted above deck and the motor and electrical connections protected below deck. A vertical windlass has more power and uses less energy but requires a larger anchor locker. A horizontal windlass, like a Lewmar windlass , has the gypsy and motor mounted above deck. Consult the boat manufacturer’s recommendations to choose a vertical or horizontal windlass.

• More: Affiliate , anchoring , Boating Safety , How-To , Seamanship , Windlass

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