stay sailboat

What is a Sailboat Stay?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A sailboat stay is a cable or line that supports the mast. Stays bear a significant portion of the mast load.

Stays are a significant part of a sailboat's standing rigging, and they're essential for safe sailing. Stays support the mast and bear the stress of the wind and the sails. Losing a stay is a serious problem at sea, which is why it's essential to keep your stays in good condition.

Table of contents

‍ How to Identify Sailboat Stays

Sailboat stays connected to the top of the mast to the deck of the sailboat. Stays stabilize the mast in the forward and aft directions. Stays are typically mounted to the very front of the bow and the rearmost part of the stern.

Sailboat Forestay

The forestay connects the top of the mast to the bow of the boat. The forestay also serves an additional purpose—the jib sail luff mounts to the forestay. In fact, the jib is hoisted up and down the forestay as if it were a mast.

Boats equipped with roller furlings utilize spindles at the top and base of the forestay. The spindles rotate to furl and unfurl the jib. Roller furlings maintain the structural integrity of a standard forestay.

Sailboat Backstay

Backstays aren't as multifunctional as forestays. The backstay runs from the top of the mast (opposite the forestay) to the stern of the sailing vessel, and it balances the force exerted by the forestay. Together, the forestay and the backstay keep the mast upright under load.

Sailboat Stay vs. Shroud

Stays and shrouds are often confused, as they essentially do the same thing (just in different places). Stays are only located on the bow and stern of the vessel—that's fore and aft. Shrouds run from the port and starboard side of the hull or deck to the top of the mast.

Best Sailboat Stay Materials

Traditional sailboat stays were made of rope and organic line. These materials worked fine for thousands of years, and they still do today. However, rope has limitations that modern sailboat stays don't.

For one, traditional rope is organic and prone to decay. It also stretches, which can throw off the balance of the mast and cause serious problems. Other materials, such as stainless steel, are more ideal for the modern world.

Most modern fiberglass sailboats use stainless steel stays. Stainless stays are made of strong woven stainless steel cable, which resists corrosion and stress. Stainless cables are also easy to adjust.

Why are Stays Important?

Stays keep the mast from collapsing. Typical sailboats have lightweight hollow aluminum masts. Alone, these thin towering poles could never hope to withstand the stress of a fully-deployed sail plan. More often than not, unstayed masts of any material fail rapidly under sail.

When properly adjusted, stays transfer the force of the wind from the thin and fragile mast to the deck or the hull. They distribute the power of the wind over a wider area and onto materials that can handle it. The mast alone simply provides a tall place to attach the head of the sail, along with a bit of structural support.

Sailboat Chain Plates

Sailboat stays need a strong mounting point to handle the immense forces they endure. Stays mount to the deck on chainplates, which further distribute force to support the load.

Chainplates are heavy steel mounting brackets that typically come with two pieces. One plate mounts on top of the deck and connects to the stay. The other plate mounts on the underside of the deck directly beneath the top plate, and the two-bolt together.

Mast Stay Mounting

Stays mount to the mast in several ways depending on the vessel and the mast material. On aluminum masts, stays often mount to a type of chain plate called a "tang." A tang consists of a bracket and a hole for a connecting link. Aluminum masts also use simple U-bolts for mounting stays.

Wooden masts don't hold up to traditional brackets as well as aluminum. A simple u-bolt or flat bolt-on bracket might tear right out. As a result, wooden masts often use special collars with mounting rings on each side. These collars are typically made of brass or stainless steel.

Sailboat Stays on Common Rigs

Stays on a Bermuda-rigged sailboat are critical. Bermuda rigs use a triangular mainsail . Triangular sails spread their sail area vertically, which necessitates a tall mast.

Bermuda rig masts are often thin, hollow, and made of lightweight material like aluminum to avoid making the boat top-heavy. As a result, stays, and shrouds are of critical importance on a Bermuda rig.

Traditional gaff-rigged sail plans don't suffer as much from this issue. Gaff rigs use a four-pointed mainsail. This sail has a peak that's taller than the head and sometimes taller than the mast.

Gaff-rigged cutters, sloops, schooners, and other vessels use comparatively shorter and heavier masts, which are less likely to collapse under stress. These vessels still need stays and shrouds, but their stronger masts tend to be more forgiving in unlucky situations.

How to Adjust Sailboat Stays

Sailboat stays and shrouds must be checked and adjusted from time to time, as even the strongest stainless steel cable stretches out of spec. Sailboats must be in the water when adjusting stays. Here's the best way to keep the proper tension on your stays.

Loosen the Stays

Start by loosening the forestay and backstay. Try to do this evenly, as it'll reduce the stress on the mast. Locate the turnbuckles and loosen them carefully.

Match the Turnbuckle Threads

Before tightening the turnbuckle again, make sure the top and bottom threads protrude the same amount. This reduces the chance of failure and allows you to equally adjust the stay in both directions.

Center the Mast

Make sure the mast is centered on its own. If it's not, carefully take up the slack in the direction you want it to go. Once the mast is lined up properly, it's time to tighten both turnbuckles again.

Tighten the Turnbuckles

Tighten the turnbuckles as evenly as possible. Periodically monitor the direction of the mast and make sure you aren't pulling it too far in a single direction.

Determine the Proper Stay Pressure

This step is particularly important, as stays must be tightened within a specific pressure range to work properly. The tension on a sailboat stay ranges from a few hundred pounds to several tons, so it's essential to determine the correct number ahead of time. Use an adjuster to monitor the tension.

What to Do if you Lose a Stay

Thankfully, catastrophic stay and shroud failures are relatively rare at sea. Losing a mast stay is among the worst things that can happen on a sailboat, especially when far from shore.

The stay itself can snap with tremendous force and cause injury or damage. If it doesn't hurt anyone, it'll certainly put the mast at risk of collapsing. In fact, if you lose a stay, your mast will probably collapse if stressed.

However, many sailors who lost a forestay or backstay managed to keep their mast in one piece using a halyard. In the absence of a replacement stay, any strong rope can offer some level of protection against dismasting .

How to Prevent a Stay Failure

Maintenance and prevention is the best way to avoid a catastrophic stay failure. Generally speaking, the complete failure of a stay usually happens in hazardous weather conditions or when there's something seriously wrong with the boat.

Stays sometimes fail because of manufacturing defects, but it's often due to improper tension, stripped threads, or aging cable that hasn't been replaced. Regular maintenance can prevent most of these issues.

Check the chainplates regularly, as they can corrode quietly with little warning. The deck below the chainplates should also be inspected for signs of rot or water leakage.

When to Replace Standing Rigging

Replace your stays and shrouds at least once every ten years, and don't hesitate to do it sooner if you see any signs of corrosion or fraying. Having reliable standing rigging is always worth the added expense.

Choosing a high-quality stay cable is essential, as installing substandard stays is akin to playing with fire. Your boat will thank you for it, and it'll be easier to tune your stays for maximum performance.

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Staysails: 5 tips on using them to turbocharge your boat speed

February 10, 2020

Andy Rice gets top tips on how to use a staysail to turbocharge your boat from Volvo Ocean Race winning skipper Mike Sanderson

Staysails really come into their own during long periods of strong winds, such as the Fastnet Race. Photo: Carlo Borlenghi / Rolex

As Mike Sanderson points out, staysails are hardly a new idea. The old clipper ships used to use multiple staysails. However, the past five years have seen staysails become a ‘must have’ item on high-performance raceboats, not least in the Volvo Ocean Race , where footage of triple-headed VO65s blasting along became some of the defining images of the 2017-18 edition.

As sailors are increasingly looking to gain smaller and smaller advantages in competition, staysail technology is trickling its way further down the sport. Mike looks at which kind of boats are best suited to deploying staysails, and how best to use them on the racecourse.

Genoa staysails tend only to appear on the highest performance raceboats that generate significant apparent wind. So here, Mike focuses his tips on spinnaker staysails, which are more applicable to a wider range of boats.

1. What ’ s your angle?

It’s surprising how little you need to ease sheets from close-hauled to start feeling the benefit of adding a genoa staysail. Provided the wind is more than 7 knots, even just bearing away 10° or 12° from fully upwind means you can start to feel the benefits of a genoa staysail.

Spinnaker staysails tend to come into play once you’re sailing at an apparent wind angle between 38-90°. Provided your boat experiences that kind of apparent wind angle (AWA) with a spinnaker or gennaker up when VMG running, chances are that a staysail will improve your performance.

A staysail will continue to work until quite a deep angle, but not when you’re getting close to dead downwind. Once you go beyond 150° to 155° true wind angle, you’re often better off furling it away.

Article continues below…

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How to balance speed and comfort when sailing – top tips from Pip Hare

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2. No penalty power

The beauty of the staysail is that rating rules like IRC and ORC don’t penalise you for using it. It’s measured as a jib, so you’re getting added power for no penalty.

On a Maxi 72, a spinnaker staysail will give another 100m 2 of sail area, which powers up the boat more, bringing the apparent wind forward. It’s a very efficient way of increasing the flow across the sail plan, enabling you to sail faster and deeper downwind.

3. Use the jib

Once it gets windy on a high-performance boat, you might want to just leave the jib up and have that working as your staysail. If you’re racing on a short windward/leeward course, the risk of sending the bowman up on a white water foredeck might not be worth it.

You’ll notice that small sportsboats like J/70s and SB20s tend to keep their jibs flying downwind in most conditions, because it provides added power and improves the flow over the back of the mainsail, just like a dedicated staysail would do.

If you’ve got 100 miles of strong wind straight line sailing ahead of you in a Fastnet Race , for example, then the staysail is a no-brainer. In rough conditions, if in doubt, stick to the jib, and save yourself the potential jeopardy of stuffing up the staysail.

On slower, lower performance boats, you will want to keep the staysail flying for longer, most of the way up the wind range until you’re thinking about using the J4 jib. In many cases the staysail is an easier sail than the jib to handle through gybes as it can be furled.

4. Spec your staysail

When ordering your staysail, we talk about percentage of STL, or the bowsprit length. The longer the bowsprit, the closer to the headstay you can mount the attachment for your staysail.

That’s the case on a Maxi 72, for example, but if you’re operating with a short prod then you will need to mount the attachment further aft along the foredeck. Otherwise it will interfere with the flying of the gennaker and can also be a real hassle for the bowman to get the jib down and furl the staysail – dealing with the bulk of the jib and the risk of the furler line jamming in the jib and so on. This means you’ve got a trade-off to consider between performance versus boathandling.

5. Trim for speed

Trim the staysail like you would trim the jib. If in doubt about how much to sheet on, it’s better to have the luff slightly luffing rather than oversheeting it, but really just keep focussed on the telltales, especially around the middle of the sail.

If you have a fixed, non-adjustable sheeting point then you may want to have a series of strops for the tack of the sail so you can adjust the lead position by raising or lowering the whole sail off the deck at the tack, which achieves the same effect as adjusting the lead.

About the expert

Mike Sanderson is one of the most respected professional sailors on the circuit, having skippered ABN Amro to victory in the 2005/06 Volvo Ocean Race and sailed with Oracle in the America’s Cup . These days Mike is chief executive of Doyle Sails and races on board the Maxi 72 Bellamente .

First published in the February 2020 edition of Yachting World.

Cruising Sail Trim Guide: Staysail

Cruising with your staysail can add horsepower and ease, giving you options in a variety of conditions. Learn how to make the most of your cruising experience with Quantum expert Dave Flynn’s staysail trim guide.

The staysail plays three roles:

It augments sail power.
It helps break down total sail area into smaller working components for ease of handling.
The smaller sail units allow for different combinations, giving sailors a variety of options for different conditions.

To make the most of your staysail, learning how to trim it is key. First though, it helps to know the right conditions for using a staysail.

As part of the overall sail power of your boat, the staysail is most useful in the middle range of reaching angles, from a close reach to the point where the wind is slightly aft of the beam (50-130 degrees apparent wind angle). As the boat sails at broader angles, the blanket of the mainsail, as it is eased out, limits the effectiveness of the staysail. Eventually, the staysail will be hidden behind the mainsail. At closer angles, when sailing to windward, the staysail can help augment horsepower.

As the headsail, staysail, and mainsail are trimmed in, the gap (slot) between them narrows, and they begin to affect each other. In lighter conditions (under 10-12 knots apparent), the staysail may inhibit, not help, upwind performance. In the middle ranges, the staysail can be more helpful, depending on factors like sail shape and sheeting angle. In windy conditions, as the mainsail has to be eased, lowering the staysail will allow the mainsail to breathe and reduce back-winding, helping to keep the boat on its feet. In short, the optimum conditions for the staysail (when adding horsepower), are at apparent wind angles of 50-130 with a minimum apparent wind velocity of 10-12 knots.

Trim of the staysail is really no different than any other headsail. When reaching, keep in mind the first rule of sail trim: when in doubt, let it out.

Most sailors tend to over trim. Make sure the sail is eased to the point of luffing, then trim to barely remove luff. If your boat is not equipped with a Hoyt club boom, the sheet lead should be moved to the outboard rail as the sail is eased out. The lead position should follow the clew, moving slightly forward and outboard.

If your boat is equipped with a Hoyt boom, the staysail’s tendency to twist (leech opening up and causing the top of the sail to luff before the bottom) can be controlled by the boom. The Hoyt boom makes the staysail more useful at broader wind angles since sail shape is maintained and the sail is extended straight away from the boat as it is eased. There is less interference with the mainsail as a result.

Upwind, trim in tight, but be careful. When looking up the sails from the aft quarter, the slot between the three sails should be roughly parallel. The genoa should be trimmed in almost to the spreader – trim the staysail to match this profile.

If your boat has a conventional jib track, make sure the lead isn’t too far forward. If it is, the foot of the sail will be round and full. This will just create back winding in the mainsail. Drop the lead aft until the foot of the staysail is flat. With a Hoyt boom, make sure the outhaul is pulled tight to achieve flat foot sections.

When it gets windy, the staysail is the perfect sail. Used in combination with a partially-furled genoa or working jib and a reefed mainsail, the staysail provides plenty of power. Various combinations of reefs and headsail size allow the boat to be balanced in every condition.

Don't miss Quantum's trim guides for your headsail , mainsail , and asymmetrical sail .

Dave Flynn Quantum Sails – Cruising Guru 410-268-1161 [email protected]

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The DIY Solent Stay or Inner Forestay

Among the many rigging improvements I’m pondering for my Yankee 30 Opal the year ahead is installing a second forestay to allow more flexibility in my sail plan.

A few years ago we dove into this topic in a two-part series on headsails. Two articles discussed the advantages of retrofitting a sloop with an inner forestay so that a smaller headsail could be set in higher winds. In the first part, technical Editor Ralph Naranjo discussed the Solent stay. In the the second part if the series , sailmaker Butch Ulmer wrote about the advantages of an inner forestay or staysail stay.

A Solent stay is a stay that sets between the mast and the forestay. It connects to the mast at a point that is only slightly below the existing backstay, and meets on the deck only slightly abaft of the existing forestay. Under such an arrangement, the mast requires no additional support. The existing backstay provides adequate tension to counteract the loads of any sail that is set from the new stay. Because it requires no additional backstay support, a Solent stay is a slightly less expensive option than the more common staysail stay, and it offers many of the same advantages.

An staysail stay also sets between the mast and the forestay. As the name implies, a staysail stay is where you would set a staysail, although it is also commonly used for setting a storm jib. In this modification, the forestay joins to the mast much closer to the deck than the Solent stay, so that some support aft is needed, usually in the form of running backstays-backstays that can be tensioned when needed, and slacked out of the way when they are not required. The staysail stay meets at the deck further aft than the Solent stay, thus bringing the center of effort further aft, which is usually desirable in heavy weather.

Why add an additional stay? As we saw in part one of our report, a Solent sail or staysail stay resolves the difficulty in managing a boat in winds at the upper range of a roller-furling jib’s designed parameters (usually above around 30 knots). The failings of a roller-reefed headsail become especially apparent when trying to work to windward. Even the best-cut furling jib will not furl down to the same efficient shape of a sail designed to perform in higher winds. There is also the risk of the furling gear itself failing, or the jib unfurling to its full dimensions.

It is important to keep in mind that most coastal sailors don’t need to bother with either of these stays. If you a prudent near-shore sailor, a well-designed and constructed furling jib will usually serve just fine. Butch Ulmer’s report discussed several methods sailmakers use to improve the performance of the roller-furling headsail when reefed down. A padded foam luff, conservative sizing (so reducing the size of the furled sail), stiffer sail material, and more sophisticated construction can all help make the furled sail more efficient. However, several of the sailmakers we spoke with suggested that a second forestay would be a welcome addition aboard a boat that has aspirations for a long offshore cruise.

The most common question we were asked in the wake of our recent two-part series on headsails was, “How do I install an inner forestay or Solent stay?” Because either of these stays might one day be depended upon in the direst of circumstances, and because every boat presents different challenges for this project, it’s important to do your research and investigate other boats that have carried out this retrofit. Once you have a general idea of what features you like, consult a rigger for the initial design.

The rigger can also help you source the parts you need, and hopefully point out other details you might overlook, such as where to install the sheet leads, how to prevent corrosion of the new hardware, and what deck reinforcements might be required. If you are having a sail made for the new stay, then getting the sailmaker involved in the design will also help.

Once you have your measurements and hardware, you can carry out the installation, depending upon your ability. In some cases, you may need some fiberglassing skills, since the padeye/chainplate for the new stay must be adequately reinforced. Usually, fiberglass work can be avoided by transferring the load to the hull or a stout bulkhead, but as Brion Toss demonstrated in his recent article on the hidden causes of rig failure , this requires a general understanding of common installation errors and potential trouble spots.

For those who are considering an upgrade here are some other resources to consult as you begin your search.

Don Casey’s This Old Boat Casey’s comprehensive book on upgrading an old sailboat dedicates several pages to adding an inner forestay. This comprehensive book is a must-have for anyone planning to turn a run-down sailboat into the pride of the marina. You can probably find a used copy on Amazon, but if you buy new from our bookstore , it helps support more Practical Sailor tests and special reports.
PS Advisor Adding a Staysail Back in 1999, when former editor Dan Spurr was refitting his sloop Viva , he pitched this same question to naval architect Eric Sponberg, who offered some sage advice. This article also references three books that will be of help to anyone considering a retrofit, among the Understanding Rigs and Rigging by Richard Henderson.
Whence Thou Comest, Highfield? We don’t know what was in the (former) editors water bottle when he came up with the headline for this test of quick releases for stays and shrouds back in 1999. After evaluating several devices, the test team concluded that ABI’s Highfield lever to be the best of the bunch. The company has since gone out of business, but the as the Rigging Company describes, three other worthy substitutes are now available. We routinely turn to the Rigging Company for advice on hardware and installations and its website has a section dedicated to installing an inner forestay that covers many of the hardware details, including devices for storing the inner forestay when not in use.
Spar specialists Selden has a number of informative articles on rigging installation and maintenance. It offers step-by-step advice on installing an inner forestay fitting (nose tang) on the mast. For those who are dealing with a classic boat, fabricating their own chainplates or tangs, or simply enjoy digging into archaic, yet still valuable advice. Skene’s Elements of Yacht Design offers tips on calculating loads and fabricating hardware. It is still relevant enough to pick up from a used book store. Rig-Rite also offers a selection of staysail tangs.
Rigger and sailmaker websites In addition to its discussion of stay releases the Rigging Company has additional information on adding a Solent stay. Brion Toss’s Spartalk discussion board (log-in required) has several threads dealing with inner forestays, Solent stays, and related hardware. Among them is Toss’s rant against the ABI forestay release . He prefers the babystay releases from Wichard (see page 9 of the catalog), available in wheel, ratchet, or lever designs, depending on the size of the boat. And sailmaker Joe Cooper describes a lightweight Solent stay retrofit using fiber instead of wire for the stay. (Because of unknowns regarding fiber stays, PS still prefers wire for this use.)
Owner retrofits A number of blogs and archive articles from old magazines offer insight into what a retrofit entails. The Windrope family has done an excellent job documenting the addition of a Solent stay to Aeolus , their Gulf 32 Pilothouse sloop.

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Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

Ask the Rigger

Do your masthead sheaves need replacing.

Question: My halyard is binding. What’s up? From the Rigger: Most boat owners do not climb their masts regularly, but our riggers spend a lot of time up there. And they often find badly damaged Read more…

Selecting Rope – Length, Diameter, Type

Question: Do you have guidelines for selecting halyards, sheets, etc. for my sailboat? From the Rigger: First, if your old rope served its purpose but needs replacing, we recommend duplicating it as closely as possible Read more…

Spinlock Deckvest Maintenance

Question: What can I do to ensure that my Spinlock Deckvest is well-maintained and ready for the upcoming season? From the Rigger: We are so glad you asked! Deckvests need to be maintained so that Read more…

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Adding a staysail

Staysails are an evolution of the many different jibs flown by commercial ships in the age of sail. Their history on yachts has had many incarnations. Many voyaging sailboats could benefit from the addition of a staysail to a single headsail sailplan.

Adding a staysail gives a boat a small jib that can balance the boat in heavier wind and sea conditions. We’ll take a look at some of the factors to be considered for this sort of an improvement.

Sometimes staysails are flown with a loose foot, and sometimes on a boom or “club.” They are also set up self-tacking to a jib-horse or track, and sometimes set overlapping the mast so that they need to be tacked around like a genoa. On larger foredecks skippers often fly them inside a full jib, sailing the boat as a double-headed rig and gaining reaching power. Still others use them as small jibs for heavy weather because they consolidate the sailplan and lower its center of effort, while giving the crew a more central and safe location at which to work when taking seas on deck.

Take the example of a voyaging couple who bought an older Tartan 34. They purchased the boat in Long Island Sound and decided to use their summer vacation to deliver it home to New Jersey via Newport and Long Island’s south shore.

On the leg from Block Island to Ambrose Light, the couple discovered that their boat had a tendency toward lee helm, even with just a full main and a working jib set. In this case, a smaller sail, set further aft on the foredeck would help to balance out the helm, making the boat manageable in a seaway in heavy air.

As with any rig alteration or addition, we want to consider the balance of the boat, so that we can maintain desirable helm with the new sail combination. If we can decide what wind ranges we aim to use the sail in, then we can get some idea of what sail combinations we would fly in those conditions, and, therefore, how the boat will balance with a given staysail.

A copy of a boat’s sailplan – obtained from the designer or builderandmdash;can be used to determine how a staysail will affect overall sailing characteristics. Our voyaging couple received their boat’s sailplan from the builder and it quickly revealed the cause of their ill-balanced helm. The boat was originally designed as a yawl. In the early 70s, when the boat was built, this configuration was not popular and the boat was offered as a sloop rig, which moved the sailplan’s center of effort farther forward.

Consideration should be given to where the new inner forestay is intersecting the foredeck and rig. I like to keep the new inner forestay parallel to the primary headstay for aesthetic reasons. The more room one has between the inner and outer headstays, the less the inner headstay will interfere with the tacking of a full genoa. Also, the farther back on the foredeck the sail is, the more protected crewmembers will be when setting and dousing the sail in bad weather. Conversely, the farther aft along the deck the tack is, the smaller the sail will be, and the less power it will generate. If one makes the sail too small, it will only be useful as a heavy weather sail.Rig considerations

Adding an inner forestay to a rig means that one is introducing forward and leeward bending moments to the spar in a place where it was probably not designed to deal with them. Remember that most spars are designed to take compression, all horizontal loads must be accounted for by the standing rigging.

If one has a double-spreader rig, and the new inner forestay intersects the spar at or close to the upper spreader, then a set of running backstays can be used to support the rig when the staysail is set. Spectra or an aramid rope is a good choice for the runners for several reasons: they add only a fraction of the weight aloft, don’t punish the rig and mainsail as severely as wire, and are easily spliceable. The drawbacks are that they can cost a bit more and probably won’t last as long as well-maintained wire.

The Tartan 34 rig has only a single-spreader rig, but the relatively small size of the required staysail allowed us to bring the forestay in just a little ways above the spreader. This particular rig, for example, had only one set of lower shrouds and no intermediate fore and aft support. Because of that, the addition of running backstays will greatly reduce the rig’s tendency to pump (something those old CCA rigs are very good at). Tying the runners into the deck as far forward as possible, while still maintaining a 15 degree shroud angle (the angle between the mast and the wire), helped us give the rig a bit more transverse rigidity to deal with the new load.

If the forestay intersects the spar at a point somewhere in the middle of a panel, then a set of diamonds or an intermediate shroud to give the section support athwartships might be a good idea.

Whatever is done, one will have to add a fitting to the spar that can take up the new forestay. This fitting must conform to the forward shape of the spar section and should probably have holes in it where one can attach toggles or link plates to the after corners of the fitting and pick up the running backstays. A local rigger can help in ordering a fitting from a place like Metal Mast Marine in Putnam, CT. I prefer to fasten the fitting to the mast with machine screws by drilling and tapping the spar, but many riggers prefer rivets. Whichever type of fastener is chosen, it’s still a good idea to bed the fitting in a polysulfide compound.

A new forestay can be terminated in any manner but I prefer the Norseman or Stalock style of mechanical fasteners. They are very strong, can be done at home, and the whole thing is reusable (with the exception of the cone, which is relatively inexpensive).

Make sure that the connections are toggled top and bottom to allow a free range of motion. Otherwise, the fittings and the wire will be unduly stressed and will tend to fatigue at the connection point to the terminal fitting.

One option is making the lower end of the forestay removable. This way, it can be released and set aside to the shrouds when not in use. Release fittings for inner forestays are commercially available, but expensive. Many people just use a turnbuckle with a quick pin. (Make sure to retain the quick pin on a lanyard to avoid losing it.)

If the inner forestay is set up to be removable, be sure to protect the spreaders and the mast from abuse by the wire. I’ve seen poorly secured inner forestays, and wire halyards wear through the leading edge of spreaders as they slap and chafe against a pitching spar.Tying in to the deck

An inner forestay needs a chainplate to provide secure integration into the boat’s structure in the same way as the primary headstay and shrouds.

Sometimes it is convenient to tie this headstay into an existing bulkhead, such as the one that divides the v-berth from the forepeak on many boats. In this case, we must remember that the bulkhead, even if structural, is not designed to take the afterward shear loads that will be placed on it by the chainplate. The fastening should be braced from pulling aft so that the deck is not loaded excessively. If improperly done, it can lead to leaking at the chainplate and deterioration of the deck core and the bulkhead. Proper fastening can be accomplished by attaching the chainplate to the deck in the form of a through-bolted extra heavy padeye, backed by an angle bracket that is tied to the bulkhead. This approach will both clamp the deck with a sealant gasket and distribute the chainplate’s bite over a larger section of deck.

The inner forestay does not always fall at a convenient spot on the deck, and it is under these circumstances that we must take the time to supplement the structure of the boat to securely tie the headstay into the boat. If there is no V berth up forward and the space is used for sail stowage, we may be able to get away with a simple “tie rod” from the under side of the deck to the keel. Tie rods can be made of rod or chain of at least two-and-a-half times the strength of the wire that will be used in the rigging. The tie rod should carry the same angle as the headstay it is reinforcing. If tying into the boat’s keel or stem is impractical, than we can split the tie and carry the load to inward-facing, heavy-duty padeyes that are above the waterline on both sides of the hull. Full backing plates and plenty of polysulfide caulking to seal and reinforce these bottom padeyes is the way to go if this approach is employed. One should also glue some heavy plywood to the inside of the hull to help spread out the new loads. On the top end the loads can be transmitted through the deck by two heavy padeyes back to back with lots of polysulfide.

A tie rod arrangement will also need an appropriately-sized turnbuckle in the equation to take up any slack and even pretension the deck so that the new stay has no chance of lifting the deck.

At other times, as when a belowdecks tie would interfere with accommodations, an alternate approach is to laminate a beam under the foredeck and across the boat. Such beams can be tied into the hull with stainless steel angle brackets at both ends.

Again we must make sure that there is enough material where the brackets tie into the hull to insure that there won’t be any deterioration of the hull laminate due to localized stresses. The new beam should also be screwed and bonded to the deck all along its run so that it distributes its loads over the widest area, and as evenly as possibly.

The original drawings for our voyaging couple’s boat brought the staysail in over the forward end of their V berth. This meant that there was no bulkhead, and a tie rod would have rendered the bunk useless. I initially hoped that they would laminate in a beam, but their busy schedules didn’t afford them the time. By the time spring had rolled around they had decided to move the chainplate forward a foot or two to a bulkhead and use the first approach described above.

We have to make sure that anywhere bolts are run through a cored laminate, we use compression spacers to protect the laminate. This is a good idea in balsa- and plywood-cored decks where leakage can result in moisture wicking, core rot, and delamination.Sheet control

We must also take into consideration the clew end of the sail. How are we going to lead the sheets, and what will secure them to the deck? Perhaps the simplest approach is to have two padeyes, one port and one starboard, rove with double sheets like a genoa. But this arrangement will not allow the sail to tack without the same sheet attention a genoa requires.

To solve this problem many designers have used jib booms or clubs with the sheet leading to a small traveler or a block and padeye on the centerline. I am not particularly fond of adding another spar to the boat, particularly one that can whack me in the shins. This is, however, a good solution to an often annoying problem.

If a boat should happen to have a flush foredeck then it may be possible to install a traveler. Using a traveler, the sheet can run through a traveler-car with a centerline adjustment. Remember that the track should be level, or even curved upwards at the ends; if it curves down, following the boats deck curvature, there will be a centering tendency for the car when the sail pulls upward on the sheet. This will make it difficult to control the sheeting angle, and can slowly drive one mad.

Remember that a traveler should have at least eight degrees between the centerline of the boat, the tack, and the outboard end of the traveler when viewed from above. Otherwise the sheeting angle of the sail will always be too closed, and will have to be twisted off in order to get it to set reasonably

It may also be appealing to use a Camber Spar when it is not possible to have a deck track. A Camber Spar is a pre-formed aluminum spar that fits inside a special pocket on the sail. It runs at right angles to the headstay reaching from the luff to the clew. It is something of a cross between a batten and a boom. Of course, the sail must be specially constructed for this sort of an arrangement. A Camber Spar will allow one to tack the staysail in a self-tending manner, while having the sheet lead through a fixed point on the centerline. It will also help prevent the sail from twisting-off excessively when reaching; and it stows with the sail, leaving no booms or clubs on deck. (My shins feel better already.)

We can see that adding a staysail will probably prompt most people to consult a professional boatyard or rigging shop. However, with a little bit of forethought and research, most of the preliminary work can be done at home with pencil and paper. Once the design and approach is clear, one can even do some of the installation (provided one has the nerve to actually drill holes in one’s boat).

Paul Cohen, who has worked as a sailmaker and a rigger in Europe and the U.S., is building a 60-foot Dave Gerr design for the 1994 BOC Challenge.

By Ocean Navigator

English - United Kingdom

Adding a Staysail? Inner Forestay Setup Options

Published date: august 20 2020.

Are you considering upgrading your sail plan to include a staysail? It is an increasingly popular choice, offering considerable performance benefits, which is explored in more detail in our previous blog here . In this blog we focus on the various setup options and some things to watch out for when considering an inner forestay retrofit.

The primary considerations are fixed or removable stay and furling vs hanked-on. In each case there are pro’s and cons, and multiple set-up options.

Forestay with hanks

Many blue water cruisers, and racers alike, are advocates of the hanked-on staysail – see our previous guest blog on the subject here. There are several variations to consider.

Fixed or removable The simplest option is a permanent, fixed stay with a turnbuckle providing tension. The downside of this setup is that the stay can inhibit tacking with the main genoa, as the clew and sheets must pass around the inner forestay.

To address this, a common solution is a semi-permanent inner forestay. The upper end of the stay is permanently attached to the mast but a quick release fitting at the bottom allows the stay to be brought back to the mast when not in use. Options for tensioning the stay include a highfield lever or 2:1 / 3:1 purchase system led back to a clutch/winch.

N.B. Consideration should be given to the length of the stay. If the length is maximised to the available space, then it will be over-length when brought back to the mast. Alternatively, the stay can be made to fit snugly at the mast and the tensioning system makes up the additional length when in use.

Wire or Composite Inner Forestay Modern materials can provide much nicer and more practical solutions. For a fixed inner forestay on a turnbuckle, the least expensive option is often a wire stay. The same setup is also possible with a fixed composite stay built from PBO or Kevlar. While the cost of these materials may be inhibiting, the benefit of a composite stay is a 75% weight saving plus the soft cover of the cable is kinder on both your staysail and the genoa passing across it during tacking. The staysail should be hoisted on soft hanks.

Another advantage we have seen with this setup is that when the sail is lowered to the deck, the purchase line, on the bottom of the stay, can be eased off and the sail pulled back using the sheet. This pulls the stay towards the mast and can facilitate easier tacking without removing the sail / stay. To re-hoist the staysail – simply tension the stay, release the sail ties and hoist away!

All of the above options also require a staysail halyard sheave box in the mast and sail luff tension is adjusted via the halyard. Furling system

The alternative to a stay with hanked-on sails is a furling staysail. There really is no right or wrong here and it comes down to a personal preference. It is possible to rig a permanent inner forestay with a traditional genoa reefing furler & aluminium luff foils…. But, here at Upffront.com, we like to think these days are over (too much weight!), and a continuous line (bottom-up) furler with torsional cable is the right solution for the vast majority of our customers. There are two primary furler setup options: Hoist on a halyard or into a lock.

The furling unit is clipped directly to a deck padeye. The furled sail is hoisted on the staysail halyard to the required tension. It is common to use a 2:1 halyard to increase control and reduce compression in the mast. A benefit of this setup is that it maximises luff length and allows the sail to sit close to the deck.

This is the simplest and most cost-effective retrofit furling solution. Assuming you have a staysail halyard sheave, the only additional requirement is a dead-end attachment just above the sheave box.

There two options here: Internal or external (hanging) lock:

Karver KF Staysail furler with 4-1 purchase

- An internal lock is the cleanest solution but requires some work on the rig to install the lock. However, this can be done by most good refit yards with some technical verification from your mast maker. The furling swivel is clipped directly to the lock bullet (preferably with a short soft connector) and then a 2/3:1 purchase is required at the tack, to provide stay tension.

- A simpler retrofit is an external / hanging furling lock , lashed to an eye on the mast. The hoist line can run to deck level externally or led into the mast, via a small slot just below the lock, and exited at the mast base with the other halyards. Again, a 2/3:1 purchase system is required at the tack for stay tension.

Karver KF Staysail Furler with purchase system

Retrofit Checklist

Adding a staysail can be a relatively straightforward performance improvement but there are some key checks you should make to ensure the integrity of your mast and rigging.

Deck attachment point - this is fundamental. If you do not have a staysail deck chainplate, talk to your local boatbuilder or refit yard about your options and any structural modifications required to ensure your deck is strong enough to support the inner forestay loads.

Mast fittings – If you do not have the necessary hardware on your mast for the staysail you should seek the advice of your mast maker who can confirm whether any mast stiffening will be required.

Aft rigging – at the same time your mast maker can advise on any requirements for additional aft rigging to counteract the inner forestay loads. On most modern rigs with swept back spreaders this is not generally a structural problem but it is something that needs to be ticked off the check list prior to proceeding with a retrofit project

If you have any questions about code zero and asymmetric furlers, please feel free to email us at [email protected] , or click the link below to see our full range:

Phil Anniss

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The question of staysails - how to make them work for you

Sailboat Stays and Shrouds: Essential Rigging Components Explained

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 21, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer: Sailboat stays and shrouds

Sailboat stays and shrouds are essential components of the rigging system that provide support and stability to the mast. Stays run from the masthead to various points on the boat, preventing forward and backward movement, while shrouds connect the mast laterally to maintain side-to-side stability. Together, they help distribute the forces acting on the mast and ensure safe sailing .

Understanding Sailboat Stays and Shrouds: A Comprehensive Guide

Introduction: Sailing is an exhilarating experience, but it requires a deep understanding of the various components that make up a sailboat . One crucial aspect that every sailor should grasp is the concept of stays and shrouds. These vital elements not only provide support and stability to the mast but also play a significant role in determining the overall performance of the sailboat. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore everything you need to know about sailboat stays and shrouds.

What are Stays and Shrouds? Stays and shrouds are essential rigging components that hold the mast in place and control its movements during sailing. They primarily serve two distinct purposes – providing support for the mast against excessive sideways forces (known as lateral or side-to-side loads) while allowing controlled flexing, and keeping the mast aligned with respect to both pitch (fore-aft) and roll (side-to-side) axes.

The Difference between Stays and Shrouds: Although often used interchangeably, stays and shrouds have specific functions on a sailboat rigging system. Stays usually refer to those wires or cables that run forward from the head of the mast, attaching it to various points on the bow or foredeck. They help resist fore-and-aft loads placed upon the mast, such as when sailing upwind, preventing it from bending too much under pressure.

On the other hand, shrouds typically refer to rigging lines connecting laterally from both sides of the masthead down towards deck level or chainplates located on either side of the boat’s cabin top or hull. Unlike stays, they primarily counteract side-to-side forces acting on the mast due to wind pressure exerted against sails during different points of sail.

Types of Stays: A typical sailboat may consist of different types of stays based on their location on the mast. Some of the common types include:

1. Forestay: The forestay is a prominent stay that runs from the top of the mast to the bow or stemhead fitting at the boat’s front . It is responsible for supporting most of the fore-and-aft loads acting upon a sailboat rigging system, keeping the mast in position while under tension from sails .

2. Backstay: The backstay runs from the top of the mast to either stern or transom fittings at the aft end of a sailboat. It acts as an opposing force to counteract forward bending moments occurring on larger boats when sailing into a headwind or during heavy gusts.

3. Inner Stays: Found on some rigs with multiple masts or taller sailboats, inner stays run parallel to and inside other stays (such as forestay and backstay). These provide additional support and rigidity when deploying smaller headsails closer to centerline during specific wind conditions.

Types of Shrouds: Similar to stays, shrouds can vary based on their positioning on each side of the masthead and hull structure. Some commonly used shroud types are:

1. Upper Shrouds: These are positioned higher up on a sailboat mast , connecting near its upper section down towards deck level or chainplates for lateral stability against the force exerted by sailing sails.

2. Lower Shrouds: Positioned lower down on a sailboat’s mast , these connect near its midpoint and extend towards lower deck sections or chainplates. They serve mainly as reinforcing elements against lateral forces experienced while sailing in strong winds .

3. Jumpers/Checkstays: Jumpers (or checkstays) are typically temporary shroud additions used when depowering or controlling mast bend in certain wind conditions or point of sail, especially during racing events where fine-tuning sail shape is critical.

Conclusion: Sailboat stays and shrouds are essential components that provide critical support, stability, and control to the mast. Understanding their purpose and types is crucial for every sailor looking to optimize their vessel’s performance while ensuring safe sailing. By comprehensively knowing the role of stays and shrouds, you can confidently navigate the waters while harnessing the power of wind in pursuit of your sailing adventures.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Proper Installation of Sailboat Stays and Shrouds

Installing sailboat stays and shrouds may seem like a daunting task, but with the right knowledge and proper instructions, it can be accomplished smoothly. Stays and shrouds are crucial components of a sailboat’s rigging system that provide support and stability to the mast. In this step-by-step guide, we will walk you through the process of installing these vital elements for safe and efficient sailing.

Step 1: Prepare your Equipment

Before beginning any installation, ensure that you have all the necessary tools and materials at hand. This includes stay wires, turnbuckles, cotter pins, wire cutters, measuring tape, swage fittings (if applicable), wrenches appropriate for your boat’s hardware sizes, and a well-organized workspace. Having everything prepared ahead of time allows for smoother progress throughout the installation procedure.

Step 2: Measure & Cut Stay Wires

Accurate measurements are crucial when it comes to stays and shrouds installation. Using a measuring tape, determine the required length for each stay wire by taking precise measurements from their designated attachment points on deck to the masthead or other relevant attachment points. It is important to leave room for tension adjustment using turnbuckles later on.

After obtaining accurate measurements, use wire cutters to trim each stay wire accordingly. Be sure to trim them slightly longer than measured lengths initially indicated because precision can only be achieved once all connections are made.

Step 3: Attach Wires to Mast Fittings

Now that you have your measured and cut stay wires ready, it’s time to attach them securely to the appropriate mast fittings . Depending on your boat’s design and specific rigging details, this step can vary slightly. Look for pre-existing attachment points designed specifically for stays or fittings specifically configured for thread-on stays if applicable.

Ensure each connection is secure by threading or whatever means necessary as per your boat’s requirements . Double-check that there is no unwanted slack while leaving space for later tension adjustments.

Step 4: Deck Attachment Points

Move on to attaching the stay wires to their designated deck attachment points. These points are usually found near the bow area, and there may be specific fittings designed just for this purpose. Follow your operational manual or consult experienced sailors if you are unsure about the correct attachment points.

Again, double-check that all connections are securely fastened, without any excess slack. It is always better to have a slight bit of extra wire length here than have inadequate length at this stage.

Step 5: Install Turnbuckles

With the stays securely connected at both ends, it’s time to insert turnbuckles. Turnbuckles are essential tools for adjusting the tension in stay wires. Attach these devices to each stay wire by screwing them into the corresponding threaded fitting on either end of the stays. Ensure they are tightened securely but not over-tightened at this stage; you still need room for adjustments and tuning.

Step 6: Secure with Cotter Pins or Locking Nuts

To prevent accidental loosening of turnbuckles due to vibrations or rough sail conditions, make sure to secure them using cotter pins or locking nuts provided by your boat’s manufacturer. Place a cotter pin through the hole located in one side of the turnbuckle and bend it back upon itself, ensuring that it does not interfere with adjacent rigging components or sails.

Alternatively, locking nuts can be used by tightening them against each side of the turnbuckle threads once adjusted correctly –This provides an additional layer of security against unexpected loosening during sailing adventures !

Step 7: Inspect & Adjust Tension

Before hitting the water and setting sail , take a moment to inspect all connections thoroughly. Verify that each wire is properly aligned and does not show signs of damage like frays or kinks—Pay attention to potential chafe points where movement can wear against another object or surface.

To adjust tension, gradually tighten or loosen the turnbuckles as necessary. Be cautious and make small adjustments while periodically checking for an evenly balanced mast, ensuring that it remains straight and true.

By following these step-by-step instructions meticulously, you can ensure a proper installation of sailboat stays and shrouds. Remember to take your time, double-check all connections, and consult with professionals or experienced sailors if any doubts arise. With a meticulous approach and attention to detail, your sailboat rigging will be safe, stable, and ready for smooth sailing adventures!

Frequently Asked Questions about Sailboat Stays and Shrouds: Everything You Need to Know

Have you ever found yourself marveling at the majesty of a sailboat, wondering how it is able to harness the power of the wind and navigate through vast oceans? If you are a sailing enthusiast or considering embarking on a sailing adventure, understanding the intricacies of sailboat stays and shrouds is paramount. In this comprehensive blog post, we will address frequently asked questions about sailboat stays and shrouds, equipping you with everything you need to know.

1. What are Sailboat Stays and Shrouds?

Sailboat stays and shrouds are vital components of a boat’s standing rigging system that help support the mast while ensuring stability during sailing. Simply put, they prevent the mast from toppling over under excessive pressure from the sails or adverse weather conditions. While these terms may sound interchangeable to novices, there are important distinctions between them.

Stays: Stays are tensioned cables or wires attached to various points on the mast and radiate outwards in multiple directions supporting it against fore-and-aft movement. The most common types include forestays (located at the bow), backstays (attached to the stern), side stays (running sideways along both port and starboard sides), and inner forestays.

Shrouds: On the other hand, shrouds provide lateral support to counteract sideways forces acting on the mast. They run diagonally from their connection points on deck-level chainplates outwards towards optimized positions along the spreaders near midway up the mast.

2. What materials are used for Sailboat Stays and Shrouds?

Traditionally, steel wire was predominantly used for both stays and shrouds due to its strength and durability. However, modern advancements have introduced alternative materials such as synthetic fibers like Dyneema or carbon fiber composites. These lightweight alternatives possess remarkable tensile strength while offering corrosion resistance advantages over traditional wire options.

3. How tight should Sailboat Stays and Shrouds be?

Maintaining the appropriate tension in your sailboat’s stays and shrouds is crucial for maintaining integrity and overall sailing performance. Correct tension ensures that the mast remains properly aligned while allowing it to flex as required, absorbing dynamic forces from wind gusts.

To determine optimal tension, consult your sailboat’s manufacturer guidelines or consult with a professional rigging specialist. Adjustments may also vary depending on sea state or anticipated weather conditions . Proper tuning necessitates periodic evaluation to ensure the stays and shrouds’ tension remains within specifications.

4. How do Sailboat Stays and Shrouds affect sailing performance ?

The correct alignment, tautness, and positioning of sailboat stays and shrouds significantly impact sailing performance due to their influence on mast bend characteristics. Adjusting stay tension can control how much a mast bends under load: tightened stays flatten the mainsail’s profile for increased pointing ability in light winds, while looser tensions promote fuller profiles for enhanced power in heavier winds .

Shroud positions also dictate sideways motion of the mast; fine-tuning their tension governs how efficiently a boat can maintain a desired course when encountering various wind strengths and angles.

5. What are some common signs of wear or damage in Sailboat Stays and Shrouds?

As essential as they are, sailboat stays and shrouds are subjected to immense loads that can lead to wear over time. Routine inspection is vital to identify any potential issues before they escalate into major rigging failures.

Signs of wear or damage may include rust or corrosion on metal components, cracked insulation around terminals, broken strands on wire rigging, visible rigging deformation or elongation under load, unusual vibrations onboard while sailing, or creaking noises originating from the mast during maneuvers.

In such instances, swift action should be taken by replacing affected parts immediately or seeking assistance from experienced rigging professionals.

By familiarizing yourself with the essentials of sailboat stays and shrouds, you empower yourself to enjoy a safer and more rewarding sailing experience. Remember to conduct regular inspections, adhere to manufacturer recommendations, and consult professionals when necessary. Now, set sail with confidence as you venture into the salty unknown!

Exploring the Importance of Sailboat Stays and Shrouds in Ensuring Safety at Sea

When it comes to sailing, safety should always be the number one priority. The open waters of the sea can be unpredictable and unforgiving, making it crucial for sailors to have a thorough understanding of their sailboat ‘s rigging system. One vital component of this system is sailboat stays and shrouds, which play a significant role in ensuring safety onboard.

Sailboat stays and shrouds are specialized cables or wires that support the mast, providing stability and preventing it from collapsing under the pressure of wind forces. These essential rigging elements act as a lifeline for the entire vessel, keeping everything intact during even the toughest conditions at sea.

The primary purpose of stays and shrouds is to distribute the load evenly throughout the mast structure. By doing so, they prevent excessive stress on specific areas and reduce the risk of structural failure. This balance is especially critical when sailboats encounter strong winds or rough seas that can exert immense pressure on the mast.

Imagine cruising along peacefully when suddenly you encounter strong gusts of wind. Without properly tensioned stays and shrouds, your mast could bend or break under these intense forces, compromising your safety and potentially causing severe damage to your vessel. Well-maintained stays and shrouds ensure that your mast remains stable even in adverse weather conditions by withstanding these forces without deformation.

However, ensuring that your sailboat’s rigging is reliable isn’t just about maintaining functionality—it demands meticulous attention to detail as well. Stays and shrouds need periodic inspection to identify any signs of wear or corrosion that may weaken their integrity over time. A frayed cable or rusty hardware might not seem like much at first glance, but they could lead to catastrophic failures when put under stress.

Safety at sea also requires understanding how different types of stays and shrouds work together to optimize performance in varying sailing conditions. While staying safe is crucial, performance matters too! Different sailboat designs accommodate different rigging configurations, and knowledgeable sailors carefully select the right combinations to enhance their vessel’s maneuverability. The strategic placement of stays and shrouds aids in controlling the shape and orientation of sails, enabling efficient sailing even in challenging weather.

In this era of advanced technologies, some sailors may wonder if traditional stays and shrouds are still essential with other innovations available. However, it’s crucial to remember that age-old methods often endure for a reason: their reliability. Modern alternatives might offer convenience or weight-saving benefits, but they seldom match the robustness and simplicity of time-tested techniques.

The exploration of the importance of sailboat stays and shrouds ultimately emphasizes the significance of investing time and resources into proper knowledge, maintenance, and selection. As a sailor, prioritizing safety by ensuring the integrity of these critical components can mean all the difference between a pleasurable voyage adrift on calm seas versus surviving treacherous storms.

So, before embarking on any maritime adventure, take a moment to appreciate the unsung heroes that uphold your mast—the sailboat stays and shrouds—and make sure they are ready to bear any challenges that await you on your journey to ensure both safe passage and endless memories at sea.

How Sailboat Stays and Shrouds Impact Performance: Tips for Maximizing Efficiency

Sailboats are fascinating vessels that harness the power of the wind to propel through the water. While many factors contribute to a sailboat’s performance, one often overlooked aspect is the impact that stays and shrouds have on its efficiency. In this blog post, we will dive into the intricacies of sailboat stays and shrouds, exploring how they affect performance and providing valuable tips for maximizing efficiency.

To understand the significance of stays and shrouds, let’s first clarify their definitions. Stays are essentially wires or ropes that provide support to keep a mast in place, preventing excessive bending or swaying. Shrouds, on the other hand, refer specifically to those stays that extend from either side of the boat to stabilize the mast laterally.

While seemingly simple components, stays and shrouds play a crucial role in determining a sailboat’s overall performance. Here’s how:

1. Structural stability: Sailboat stays act as primary supports for the mast, ensuring it remains upright against powerful winds . Without adequately tensioned stays and shrouds, masts can buckle or sway excessively under load, compromising sailing performance and even risking structural damage.

2. Sail shape control: Proper tensioning of stays and shrouds directly influences the shape of your sails while underway. By adjusting their tension appropriately, you can manipulate how your sails fill with wind , optimizing their aerodynamic profile for maximum efficiency. Expert sailors effectively use this control mechanism to fine-tune their boat ‘s speed and responsiveness.

3. Windward performance: Efficiently rigged sailboat stays help maintain proper alignment between mast and sails when sailing upwind (also known as pointing). Tensioned shrouds ensure that minimal lateral movement occurs during tacking or jibing maneuvers when changing direction against the wind. This prevention of excess mast movement translates into less energy lost due to unnecessary drag – ultimately improving windward efficiency .

Now that we’ve established the importance of sailboat stays and shrouds let’s delve into some tips for optimizing their performance:

1. Regular inspections: Routine visual inspections are essential to identify any signs of wear, corrosion, or fatigue on your stays and shrouds. Replace frayed ropes or wires promptly, ensuring that all components remain robust and reliable.

2. Correct tensioning: Achieving the optimal tension in your stays and shrouds is vital. Too loose, and you risk mast instability; too tight, and excessive stress loads are placed on the rigging components. Aim for a tension that allows slight flexibility while maintaining structural integrity – seeking advice from an experienced rigger can help find the sweet spot.

3. Invest in quality materials: The quality of your rigging directly impacts its longevity and performance . Opt for high-quality stainless steel wires, synthetic fibers like Dyneema, or carbon fiber alternatives when replacing old rigging components, as these materials offer superior strength-to-weight ratios.

4. Tuning adjustments: To maximize sail shape control, experiment with adjusting the tension of your stays and shrouds during different weather conditions or sailing angles. Fine-tuning these tensions can lead to significant improvements in both speed and responsiveness while ensuring optimum aerodynamic performance at all times.

5. Seek professional advice: Don’t hesitate to reach out to experts in yacht rigging or naval architects for specialist input regarding optimizing your sailboat’s rigging setup. Their expertise can guide you towards refined techniques tailored to suit specific vessel designs or sailing goals.

In conclusion, understanding how sailboat stays and shrouds impact performance is crucial for any sailor aiming to maximize efficiency on the water. By recognizing their significance as key structural supports influencing sail shape control and windward performance, you can optimize your vessel’s potential while enjoying more thrilling voyages than ever before! So make sure to prioritize regular inspections, correct tensioning methods, high-quality materials, tuning adjustments, and professional guidance to unlock the true potential of your sailboat.

Essential Maintenance Tips for Maintaining the Integrity of Sailboat Stays and Shrouds

Sailboat owners and enthusiasts know the importance of regular maintenance to keep their vessels in top condition. Among the vital components that require particular attention are the stays and shrouds – key structural elements that ensure the integrity of a sailboat’s mast and rigging system.

Stays and shrouds are essentially wires or cables that provide crucial support to the mast, allowing it to properly withstand wind pressures and maintain stability during sailing. As they play such a pivotal role in your sailboat’s performance and safety, it is essential to implement regular maintenance practices to ensure their longevity and functionality.

To help you maintain the integrity of your sailboat’s stays and shrouds, we have compiled some essential tips that will not only enhance their lifespan but also contribute to your overall sailing experience:

1. Visual Inspection: Regularly conduct visual inspections of all stays and shrouds with an eagle eye for any signs of wear or damage. Look for frayed or broken strands, corrosion, stretched areas, or loose fittings. It is better to address minor issues early on rather than waiting for them to become major problems.

2. Tension Monitoring: Check the tension of your stays regularly using a suitable tension gauge or by following manufacturer guidelines. Proper tension ensures optimal performance while avoiding excessive strain on both mast and rigging components.

3. Corrosion Control: Saltwater exposure can accelerate corrosion on metal components like turnbuckles, shackles, or terminals. Routinely clean these parts using freshwater after each outing while inspecting them for signs of rust. Applying protective coatings like anti-corrosion sprays can also significantly extend their lifespan.

4. Lubrication: Maintaining a smooth operation within turnbuckles is crucial for proper tension adjustment as well as preventing corrosion seizing between threaded components (e.g., adjusters). Apply marine-grade lubricants periodically, ensuring even distribution across all moving parts.

5. Regular Rig Tuning: Appreciate the importance of proper rig tuning to optimize sail shape and overall stability. Work with a professional rigger to adjust the tension on your sails and shrouds, correcting any sag or excessive flex.

6. Replacing Components: If you notice any signs of wear that cannot be resolved through cleaning, lubrication, or tension adjustment, consider replacing the affected components immediately with high-quality replacements. Neglecting worn stays or shrouds can compromise your sailboat ‘s safety and performance.

7. Professional Rig Inspection: Schedule a professional rig inspection at least once every two years, especially if you engage in more frequent or rigorous sailing activities. Rigging experts have the experience and knowledge to detect potential weaknesses that may not be readily evident to an untrained eye, helping you avoid costly breakdowns during crucial moments.

Remember, maintaining the integrity of sailboat stays and shrouds should be an ongoing priority for all passionate sailors. By following these essential maintenance tips and providing regular care to these vital elements, you can ensure your vessel is ready to conquer waves with reliability and grace. So set sail with confidence knowing that your rigging system is in optimal condition!

Backstays to the Future

By Alvah Simon
Updated: March 28, 2013

backstay setup

A running backstay is a removable stay that provides aft support to the mast from either the masthead or the point at which an inner forestay is attached. It originated as a response to the material limits of the period. At that time, solid wooden masts, for example, were either too weak or too heavy to be made particularly tall. Therefore, to achieve an acceptable area of sail for the heavy-displacement boats of the day, either the boom had to be extended beyond the transom or a gaff had to be added to the top of the sail—or both. This precluded the use of fixed backstays because the boom and gaffs had to be free to swing across the vessel when it tacked and jibed. As a tack or jibe was initiated, the burdened backstay had to be released and, as the spars swung through, the new, now windward, stay had to be fastened quickly before the entire rig came tumbling down.

With the advent of hollow masts, first of wood and then of alloy, and stainless-steel wire, the aspect ratio of the rigs began to extend to 3-to-1 and beyond. This allowed for the development of the Bermuda or Marconi rig, which eliminated gaffs and shortened the booms considerably without the loss of sail area or performance.

Running backstays, or runners, were then generally found only on cutter-rigged vessels. But through the 1960s and 1970s, the sloop became the rig du jour, and running backstays fell from favor. With the introduction of Freedom Yachts’ freestanding mast and Hunter’s B&R rig, the trend veered toward eliminating backstays, running or not, altogether.

Where are we today? Are running backstays now simply anachronisms that add unnecessary weight, windage, and clutter? I think not, especially in the context of bluewater cruising.

Sloops are fast around the buoys, but in the open sea, they display two disadvantages. First, the sail area is shared by only two large and therefore more difficult to handle sails. Second, in storm conditions, a sloop’s headsail, no matter how much it’s furled, still leaves the center of effort too far forward and too high to produce a safe and comfortable motion.

The cutter rig distributes the sail area over an additional sail, and that inner forestay is a superior position from which to hank on a low-flown storm sail. But with any real force upon it, the inner forestay can distort the shape of the mast; this will require a countereffort. Enter the intermediate running backstay. The arguable benefit of a staysail aside, this lower triangulation of support adds strength and stability to the mast, which translates into a better chance of coming up from a knockdown with the rig intact. Think sailing in the South Atlantic Ocean —it matters.

But alas, when you’re sailing off the wind, these same runners will have to be attended to on each and every tack. In open-ocean situations, this might not happen for days at a time. In confined waters, however, it’s necessary to have a quick and efficient method for setting and stowing runners.

Ideas and hardened opinions on running backstays are diverse and plentiful enough to keep seaside barstools warm all night. See the accompanying images and diagrams to learn about some of the most common approaches to setup and stowage.

If you’re considering adding an inner forestay and running backstays, I recommend that you get professional advice addressing the minimum engineering angles required, appropriate deck hardware, proper tangs and toggles needed at the mast, and wire types and diameters.

I don’t mean to imply that running backstays are suitable for all boats and applications. But if your interests lie in bluewater passagemaking and you take a belt-and-suspenders approach to your safety, I believe that you’ll agree that the added weight, windage, cost, and inconvenience are more than justified.

Alvah Simon, a CW contributing editor, is the author of North to the Night .

Click here for more pictures of running backstay setups . Click here to read about how an inner forestay and staysail can help you beat along in a blow.

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The Solent Has Its Own Stay!

A stay that gets its name from a strait separating the Isle of Wight from the mainland of southern England, the Solent . This traditionally windy place with strong currents can cause rough sea conditions and can make for some interesting sailing, to say the least. This body of water is also famous for hosting one of sailing’s largest events known as Cowes Week . These sometimes unrelenting sailing conditions have brought forth the conception of an entire stay, aptly called the Solent Stay.

As most boats these days are equipped with headsail furlers, rigging a Solent stay is a modification that many blue water cruisers are considering, more and more. The Solent stay is an inner fore-stay that provides an alternative to the Sta-sail stay . Its benefits, similar to that of the Sta-sail Stay, are to provide an inner stay that can fly a smaller/ heavier headsail without having to unfurl, douse and change out the boats everyday headsail.

The Solent stay is unique to the Sta-sail in that the stay is rigged close enough to the fore stay at the mast, eliminating the needs for any additional back-stays, i.e. running backstays. It is also possible that the new Solent sail could share sheet leads with the boat’s existing Genoa lead cars, depending on design and lay-out, and Solent Sail cut.

The tricky part, when adding any stay to the boat, be to locate a strong place on deck that is available to anchor the chainplate for the Solent Stay. Typically there will be only 1 or 2 reasonable locations for this. This may result in the two forward stays not being parallel to each other (see image left). If you can get over the appearance (easily done especially if it is removable, and I can’t say that it has ever bothered me anyways) this set-up probably makes the most sense. Especially if you consider it a good idea to move the center of effort inboard when trying to reduce sail and ensure control of the boat.

~The on-deck attachment can be moved as far inboard as a conventional Sta-sail stay!

Some Solent stays are rigged to be removable and stowed aft (more on stowing removable stays here ). This is a totally acceptable practice. However, as the boat length increases so does the sail size and the associated hardware. Therefore, rigging the Solent stay and sail can become a bit more difficult, if nothing else more burdensome. Therefore It is also common, and totally acceptable, to install a more permanent solution by rigging stay in place with a furler . When rigging the Solent stay with a furler, a good concept might be to have a smaller sail (maybe 110%) built that will carry you through most sailing conditions, medium to heavy (i.e. say… 15-30 knots wind speed), with at least one, maybe two reef points. This sail should be cut to achieve all points of sail from the hard beat to the beam reach. Now, the headstay furler should get a full cut-over-sized Genoa (maybe 150% or larger) that can be used as a light air drifter or full cut Genoa.

~Yes, this sail will need to be furled completely during tacks, but shouldn’t be a problem in light airs.

This new light air headsail should be cut for working upwind from a close reach, to downwind, just below the beam reach for light to moderate conditions (i.e. say… 5-12 knots wind speed). For more foresail options regarding downwind sailing, read our blogs here and here .

Lastly, there is one final consideration: the tension of putting two fore-stays opposite of the one back-stay can end up sharing the loads. This can lead to the Solent stay sagging to leeward, moving the draft aft and causing issues with being able to point the boat upwind. This is not preferred in most heavy weather conditions, especially when having to work upwind. The solution lies in the how the rig tune is set up. The headstay will need to be slackened a good bit, and the new inner Solent stay will need to be tightened fairly tight; so that the backstay is pulling on the Solent Stay not the headstay. This set up will compliment the aforementioned light air Genoa/ Drifter sail on the headstay and everyday jib on the Solent Stay.

In the case of the Solent Stay being removable, make sure your Highfield lever is set to a tighter tension than the Head-stay. This should cause the Head-stay to become slack when the Solent stay is in use. Then to combat the leeward sag of the Solent Stay even further, it is also a good idea to make sure the back-stay is at its maximum recommended working tension (usually approx. 30% of breaking strength).

As always, you should seek the advice of your local rigger to ensure this Solent stay system is set up completely and properly. Have question or a comment, please leave us a few words in our comments box below.

Thanks for the read!

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Well folks, apparently the last one was such a success that they’re doing it again. U.S. Yacht Shows proudly presents, the second annual Annapolis Spring Sailboat Show 2013. The event will be held in Annapolis’ historical downtown, City Dock. The Annapolis Fall boat show, has helped to build the town’s reputation for hosting the largest boat show in the…

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The Boss Mast Dive

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More Crash Highlights – AC 45

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18 Comments

Good morning, I have a Lagoon 52f rigged up with a solent staysail with a facnor fx7000 continus furler. The sail has a soft luff and 2:1 halyard. I am having issues furling the sail. Does is this have to do with halyard tension or set up of the system itself. It just seems to be really tough to furler. An advice is greatly appreciated Thank you

First thing is always the spin test. With the system down and the parts disconnected, spin the drum by hand to see if it’s free moving. Perhaps it’s a ratcheting unit (those will require some understanding as they will lock and unlock in both directions via a mechanism in the drum). Do the same thing with the headswivel, ensure it spins freely.

If nothing jumps out about either of those, and they seem to be spinning and operational as expected. Then look into how the furling line is lead, follow it back from the drum to ensure that it can run freely without any interference from lead points. Then with the sail disconnected and using the halyard to hold up the drum, mock up the Furling system with the furling line, sans sail and headswivel, and try to spin/Furl the drum from cockpit via furling line…. back and forth, just to double check.

Once you feel good about all of that, rig the compete system again. Remember, the tosrion cable that goes through the luff of the sail needs to be very tight prior to furling/unfurling to provide a good axis for the sail to wrap around. Having said that, overly tight can bind the bearings. Especially if the unit is older, what seemed to spin fine without load (1st test) may not be the same under load. This means a rebuild or replace is necessary, this is unlikely unless the unit is significantly old or damaged.

The last part of using it properly (and usually the problem) is that you have to ease the sheet a lot, especially initially during the furl to get it started. Only during the last 30% of the Furl do you need to add a bit of sheet resistance to ensure a tight Furl.

I have also heard of sailmakers changing to swiveling tack to allow the unit to Furl from the top down, which may make it easier. Make sure you talk to your local sailmakers about this theory and their thoughts on it.

If problems persist, it may be time to consult your local rigger.

Good luck and we hope that helps. ~T.R.C.

Hi…Thanks for the blog…so helpful…I am a new owner of a Beneteau 473 Oceanis Clipper. Sailing in Med…(Greece right now) would like to sail blue water…have you ever rigged a 473 Oceanis? do you have specific ideas about where the stay should be attached? The mast has a V-shaped bracket on top, with blocks to hang (I suppose) a spinnaker halyard…so a tiny bit off-center on each side. My brother added a sprit to his boat older wooden boat to rig an asymmetrical spinnaker…do think I have the option to do both?–a sprit and solent stay or inner forestay? Thank you…(for the spin could use a sock but i would really like to be able to roller furl it instead of stowing it and rigging it every time…:) Thanks for your blog.

Thanks for contacting us. I do think you should be able to add a sprit no problem. From the sound of it the V shaped bracket that you refer to is very likely to support a block (or two) for a spinnaker halyard (s). If you compliment this with a Top Down furler , I think this would be the most user friendly set up.

For the Solent Stay, you will need to choose a spot (may already have one) pretty close to where the backstay connects, about a 12-18 inches from the top of mast. Then a sheave box for the halyard will need to be installed. The biggest part here is the deck attachment (and storage of the stay when not in use), some boat’s already have a strong point for this inside of the headstay, but some have to add it.

Send us some pictures to [email protected] and we can help further.

Hope this helps.

We own a Bene 473 and installed a Solent rig. This boat is actually designed to have one as an option and you can obtain a CAD drawing of the deck fitting that attaches to the bulkhead separating the chain locker and the V-berth. The mast also is prefitted to accept the inner-stay which makes for an easy installation. This sail comes in handy above about 23-25 kts or more of wind when beating and is great for dead-down-wind with the genoa.

Thank you, great comment and useful info for Beneteau owners!

Cheers, ~T.R.C.

Gents, Generally a nice piece but I respectfully suggest there are a few details (those pesky critters) I would argue against. I have consulted on perhaps eight of these stays and only one used a hyfield lever, because it was already there.

The top of mast to anchor-bulk-head version establishes a triangle that does not lend itself to making sails that will work easily across the speed and angle spectrum conductive to the sail’s size. The Aspect ratio is way to high. This condition is exacerbated in the event of the boat using a furler. Such a high aspect ratio makes for a sail with a really small head angle, very acute and so very difficult to remain in shape of the life cycle one wishes sails to have. More so if on a furler

The use of a high field lever is not suggested, at least by me. Rather a tackle system.

Prime reasons: They are heavy and clunky. For the tensioning part of the installation costs, they may well me more expensive than the equivalent portion of the entire system using cordage and thimbles. They require the lever and the sail to be carried forward and connected to the boat. If the lever is to remain connected to its location ion the bow, it needs to be secured to stop banging around. Then one must attach the stay, under conditions when the amount of time you spend on the bow is preferred to be less not more. There are ways to mitigate all this but they require their own systems and more steps in the procedure. Once set and the stay is attached, it is not possible to adjust the tension on the stay, well not without a lot of work. All ‘stays’ regardless of material will stretch over the hours the stay is set. With the tackle arrangement, the tension on the stay can be adjusted to compensate for this.

Independently one should, I strongly suggest a spectra type cordage, NER EnduraBraid for instance, one can use ‘regular’ (bronze) hanks and need not break the bank for soft hanks.

IF one installs two pad eyes, one either side of the mast in the appropriate location, AND a spectra loop or lashing passing between the two, to which the top of the stay is secured, AND installs a halyard deflector in the bight of the subsequently formed V, one can use the boat’s second genoa halyard if so equipped and so avoid cutting holes in the mast, for a stay fitting and halyard. This method also lends itself to being installed with the mast in place.

I have consulted on the design and installation of Solent stays on: A Quest 30 used in the Bermuda 1-2. Outbound 44 used in the OSTAR on 2009. A Baltic 39 used for offshore cruising, in about 2008 A J-105 on which I sailed DH in things like the Halifax race. Beneteau 45’ish’ footer Used for cruising in the NE.

The concept is really good, but the devil IS in the details.

http://joecoopersailing.com/?s=solent&submit=Search

http://joecoopersailing.com/Solent-stays/

We are on the same page when it comes storing the removable inner stay, I think, have you read this…. https://theriggingco.com/2014/07/09/how-to-stow-your-inner-fore-stay/

I also learned from your high aspect sail cut tid bit, very informative. It sounds viable and makes sense. Although, I think about boats with non overlapping jibs with 7/8 fractional masts (don’t need to name them, there are plenty). They must suffer from this as well then? We are not sail makers (and do not claim to be in the least). Are there any sail makers out there that would like to comment on this? Anyone? Bueller?

PS – I bet I can connect my highfield lever faster than you can reeve and lash your tackle ;-0) Game on!!!! Haha…just a joke and thank you for taking the time.

I am in the process of adding a solent stay to my Beneteau 473 for offshore use. My plan is to add a furler to the inner-stay with a heavy weather jib 100-110%. I know these inner stays are often used for spitfire (storm) jibs, but with the furler changing out sails would not be ideal. Can you suggest a solution?

Thanks for commenting. I think adding a furler and making this a permanent stay (if I hear you correctly) of the boat is a great idea! One concept is to loosen the existing headstay/ furler arrangemnet a bit and cutting a full size large Genoa for it. This is good for light air sailing, but it must be furled to tack, due to the small space between furlers. This sail should carry you in a range of 5-10 knots of windspeed. Then adding the permanent Solent Stay/ Furler arrangement with a 110 (or so) Jib that might have one reef to it. This would be the day in and day out foresail for the boat. Ideally it should be a sail that can be flown in 15-20 unfurled and 22-30 reefed, but that conversation is best suited for a sailmaker.

Add a whisker pole and your boat should be able to handle various points of sail and wind speeds without much ado.

Hope that helps thanks for taking the time.

Thanks for a good article!

I have a CS36 (Canadian Sailcraft) with two docking cleats close together in the exact spot on the foredeck where one would attach an inner forestay or Solent stay. Is there a way to use those cleats as an attachment point (I’m thinking two cleats could possibly distribute load somewhat) and how can I tell if they’ll bear the load? Ordinarily I would just reinforce the spot and move the cleats elsewhere but it would involve major below-deck rearrangment. The trip I’m planning would probably have me using that particular stay for a hank on storm jib.

Hello! Thanks for taking the time to comment. Sorry I am bit late on getting back to you. To answer your question, NO, I would not use the horn cleats to attach an inner forestay of any kind. Horn cleats (although very strong) are made to be loaded in shear and therefore are typically not tied into the boat’s keel. The chainplate for any stay must be tied into the boat’s keel by way of the hull, bow stem, transom or any other structural knee or bulkhead. Most likely there is an anchor locker bulkhead nearby and this is usually the best place to tie into for an inner forestay. Although you will need to make sure that it is an actual structural bulkhead. Be sure to contact your local marine carpenter, fiberglass repair man, or rigger if you are unsure.

I am sure this is not the answer you were looking for but I hope that it is helpful either way.

Thanks for the Read, ~T.R.C.

The Catalina 445 comes with a Selden bowsprit which is intended to be used with a downwind sail and a luff rope furler on a continuous line. That sail needs to be taken down after it’s furled. With some reinforcement do you think it would be practical to put up a conventional furler and a rig this as a solent rig? Solo sailing a lot, it would be nice to have two sails up front, similar to what Tartan yachts does.

Thanks for the comment and YES this is totally do-able, BUT not from the sprit. Your boat is a perfect candidate and we do this upgrade quite frequently. You would install a tang on the mast and depending on how the bow is configured, add a chainplate near where the forestay connects now. Then install a stay and rig it with a furler. This would become the tightest stay and fly the boat’s everyday foresail….maybe even make it self tending depending on what type of conditions the boat sails in. The old headstay/furler is then loosened a bit and outfitted with a large light air drifter sail, which can also be very handy when poled out sailing downwind.

‘Appreciate you checking us out and thanks for the read. Please don’t hesitate if we can help further.

Thanks Jim, this looks like a good option too. Will carry on the research, and thanks so much for answering my questions! Cheers Viki

Reblogged this on Astrolabe Sailing and commented: This looks like a good concept! Great blog to check out for Rigging ideas.

Is it beneficial to add running backstays with a solent stay?

It can be beneficial, but only to eliminate excessive mast pump if that is an issue. A true Solent Stay does not require the use of additional back-stays as it should be rigged close enough to the headstay so that it can utilize the boats dedicated backstay. All-in-all It is not necessary and defeats the purpose, to use running back-stays for a Solent Stay. If mast pumping is an issue there may be better solutions and you should consult a rigger for your boat specifically.

Thanks for the comment, ~T.R.C.

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The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

What's that sail for? Generally, I don't know. So I've come up with a system. I'll explain you everything there is to know about sails and rigs in this article.

What are the different types of sails? Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. Typically, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft bermuda rig (triangular shaped). A jib or genoa is used for the headsail. Most sailors use additional sails for different conditions: the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), gennaker, code zero (for upwind use), and stormsail.

Each sail has its own use. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. But you can't just raise any sail and go for it. It's important to understand when (and how) to use each sail. Your rigging also impacts what sails you can use.

Cruising yacht with mainsail, headsail, and gennaker

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

First I'll give you a quick and dirty overview of sails in this list below. Then, I'll walk you through the details of each sail type, and the sail plan, which is the godfather of sail type selection so to speak.

Click here if you just want to scroll through a bunch of pictures .

Here's a list of different models of sails: (Don't worry if you don't yet understand some of the words, I'll explain all of them in a bit)

Jib - triangular staysail
Genoa - large jib that overlaps the mainsail
Spinnaker - large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
Trysail - smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather
Storm jib - small jib for heavy weather

I have a big table below that explains the sail types and uses in detail .

I know, I know ... this list is kind of messy, so to understand each sail, let's place them in a system.

The first important distinction between sail types is the placement . The mainsail is placed aft of the mast, which simply means behind. The headsail is in front of the mast.

Generally, we have three sorts of sails on our boat:

Mainsail: The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and boom
Headsail: The small sail in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa)
Specialty sails: Any special utility sails, like spinnakers - large, balloon-shaped sails for downwind use

The second important distinction we need to make is the functionality . Specialty sails (just a name I came up with) each have different functionalities and are used for very specific conditions. So they're not always up, but most sailors carry one or more of these sails.

They are mostly attached in front of the headsail, or used as a headsail replacement.

The specialty sails can be divided into three different categories:

downwind sails - like a spinnaker
light air or reacher sails - like a code zero
storm sails

The parts of any sail

Whether large or small, each sail consists roughly of the same elements. For clarity's sake I've took an image of a sail from the world wide webs and added the different part names to it:

Diagram explaining sail parts: head, luff, tack, foot, clew, and leech

Head: Top of the sail
Tack: Lower front corner of the sail
Foot: Bottom of the sail
Luff: Forward edge of the sail
Leech: Back edge of the sail
Clew: Bottom back corner of the sail

So now we speak the same language, let's dive into the real nitty gritty.

Basic sail shapes

Roughly speaking, there are actually just two sail shapes, so that's easy enough. You get to choose from:

square rigged sails
fore-and-aft rigged sails

I would definitely recommend fore-and-aft rigged sails. Square shaped sails are pretty outdated. The fore-and-aft rig offers unbeatable maneuverability, so that's what most sailing yachts use nowadays.

Green tall ship with green square rigged sails against urban background

Square sails were used on Viking longships and are good at sailing downwind. They run from side to side. However, they're pretty useless upwind.

A fore-and-aft sail runs from the front of the mast to the stern. Fore-and-aft literally means 'in front and behind'. Boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails are better at sailing upwind and maneuvering in general. This type of sail was first used on Arabic boats.

As a beginner sailor I confuse the type of sail with rigging all the time. But I should cut myself some slack, because the rigging and sails on a boat are very closely related. They are all part of the sail plan .

A sail plan is made up of:

Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

There are dozens of sails and hundreds of possible configurations (or sail plans).

For example, depending on your mast configuration, you can have extra headsails (which then are called staysails).

The shape of the sails depends on the rigging, so they overlap a bit. To keep it simple I'll first go over the different sail types based on the most common rig. I'll go over the other rig types later in the article.

Bermuda Sloop: the most common rig

Most modern small and mid-sized sailboats have a Bermuda sloop configuration . The sloop is one-masted and has two sails, which are front-and-aft rigged. This type of rig is also called a Marconi Rig. The Bermuda rig uses a triangular sail, with just one side of the sail attached to the mast.

The mainsail is in use most of the time. It can be reefed down, making it smaller depending on the wind conditions. It can be reefed down completely, which is more common in heavy weather. (If you didn't know already: reefing is skipper terms for rolling or folding down a sail.)

In very strong winds (above 30 knots), most sailors only use the headsail or switch to a trysail.

The headsail powers your bow, the mainsail powers your stern (rear). By having two sails, you can steer by using only your sails (in theory - it requires experience). In any case, two sails gives you better handling than one, but is still easy to operate.

Let's get to the actual sails. The mainsail is attached behind the mast and to the boom, running to the stern. There are multiple designs, but they actually don't differ that much. So the following list is a bit boring. Feel free to skip it or quickly glance over it.

Square Top racing mainsail - has a high performance profile thanks to the square top, optional reef points
Racing mainsail - made for speed, optional reef points
Cruising mainsail - low-maintenance, easy to use, made to last. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
Full-Batten Cruising mainsail - cruising mainsail with better shape control. Eliminates flogging. Full-length battens means the sail is reinforced over the entire length. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
High Roach mainsail - crossover between square top racing and cruising mainsail, used mostly on cats and multihulls. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
Mast Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the mast - very convenient but less control; of sail shape. Have no reef points
Boom Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the boom. Have no reef points.

The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib .

Headsails can be attached in two ways:

using roller furlings - the sail rolls around the headstay
hank on - fixed attachment

Types of jibs:

Typically a sloop carries a regular jib as its headsail. It can also use a genoa.

A jib is a triangular staysail set in front of the mast. It's the same size as the fore-triangle.
A genoa is a large jib that overlaps the mainsail.

What's the purpose of a jib sail? A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig.

The size of the jib is generally indicated by a number - J1, 2, 3, and so on. The number tells us the attachment point. The order of attachment points may differ per sailmaker, so sometimes J1 is the largest jib (on the longest stay) and sometimes it's the smallest (on the shortest stay). Typically the J1 jib is the largest - and the J3 jib the smallest.

Most jibs are roller furling jibs: this means they are attached to a stay and can be reefed down single-handedly. If you have a roller furling you can reef down the jib to all three positions and don't need to carry different sizes.

Originally called the 'overlapping jib', the leech of the genoa extends aft of the mast. This increases speed in light and moderate winds. A genoa is larger than the total size of the fore-triangle. How large exactly is indicated by a percentage.

A number 1 genoa is typically 155% (it used to be 180%)
A number 2 genoa is typically 125-140%

Genoas are typically made from 1.5US/oz polyester spinnaker cloth, or very light laminate.

A small sloop using an overlapping genoa

This is where it gets pretty interesting. You can use all kinds of sails to increase speed, handling, and performance for different weather conditions.

Some rules of thumb:

Large sails are typically good for downwind use, small sails are good for upwind use.
Large sails are good for weak winds (light air), small sails are good for strong winds (storms).

Downwind sails

Thanks to the front-and-aft rig sailboats are easier to maneuver, but they catch less wind as well. Downwind sails are used to offset this by using a large sail surface, pulling a sailboat downwind. They can be hanked on when needed and are typically balloon shaped.

Here are the most common downwind sails:

Big gennaker
Small gennaker

A free-flying sail that fills up with air, giving it a balloon shape. Spinnakers are generally colorful, which is why they look like kites. This downwind sail has the largest sail area, and it's capable of moving a boat with very light wind. They are amazing to use on trade wind routes, where they can help you make quick progress.

Spinnakers require special rigging. You need a special pole and track on your mast. You attach the sail at three points: in the mast head using a halyard, on a pole, and on a sheet.

The spinnaker is symmetrical, meaning the luff is as long as its leech. It's designed for broad reaching.

Large sailing yacht sailing coastal water using a true spinnaker

Gennaker or cruising spinnaker

The Gennaker is a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker. It has less downwind performance than the spinnaker. It is a bit smaller, making it slower, but also easier to handle - while it remains very capable. The cruising spinnaker is designed for broad reaching.

The gennaker is a smaller, asymmetric spinnaker that's doesn't require a pole or track on the mast. Like the spinnaker, and unlike the genoa, the gennaker is set flying. Asymmetric means its luff is longer than its leech.

You can get big and small gennakers (roughly 75% and 50% the size of a true spinnaker).

Also called ...

the cruising spinnaker
cruising chute
pole-less spinnaker
SpinDrifter

... it's all the same sail.

Small sloops using colorful gennakers in grey water

Light air sails

There's a bit of overlap between the downwind sails and light air sails. Downwind sails can be used as light air sails, but not all light air sails can be used downwind.

Here are the most common light air sails:

Spinnaker and gennaker

Drifter reacher

Code zero reacher.

A drifter (also called a reacher) is a lightweight, larger genoa for use in light winds. It's roughly 150-170% the size of a genoa. It's made from very lightweight laminated spinnaker fabric (1.5US/oz).

Thanks to the extra sail area the sail offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It's generally made from lightweight nylon. Thanks to it's genoa characteristics the sail is easier to use than a cruising spinnaker.

The code zero reacher is officially a type of spinnaker, but it looks a lot like a large genoa. And that's exactly what it is: a hybrid cross between the genoa and the asymmetrical spinnaker (gennaker). The code zero however is designed for close reaching, making it much flatter than the spinnaker. It's about twice the size of a non-overlapping jib.

Volvo Ocean race ships using code zero and jib J1

A windseeker is a small, free-flying staysail for super light air. It's tall and thin. It's freestanding, so it's not attached to the headstay. The tack attaches to a deck pad-eye. Use your spinnakers' halyard to raise it and tension the luff.

It's made from nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth (0.75 to 1.5US/oz).

It's designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the main sail, ensuring a more even, smooth flow of air.

Stormsails are stronger than regular sails, and are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots. You carry them to spare the mainsail. Sails

A storm jib is a small triangular staysail for use in heavy weather. If you participate in offshore racing you need a mandatory orange storm jib. It's part of ISAF's requirements.

A trysail is a storm replacement for the mainsail. It's small, triangular, and it uses a permanently attached pennant. This allows it to be set above the gooseneck. It's recommended to have a separate track on your mast for it - you don't want to fiddle around when you actually really need it to be raised ... now.

US naval acadamy sloop in marina with bright orange storm trysail and stormjob

Sail	Type	Shape	Wind speed	Size	Wind angle
Bermuda	mainsail	triangular, high sail	< 30 kts
Jib	headsail	small triangular foresail	< 45 kts	100% of foretriangle
Genoa	headsail	jib that overlaps mainsail	< 30 kts	125-155% of foretriangle
Spinnaker	downwind	free-flying, balloon shape	1-15 kts	200% or more of mainsail	90°–180°
Gennaker	downwind	free-flying, balloon shape	1-20 kts	85% of spinnaker	75°-165°
Code Zero or screecher	light air & upwind	tight luffed, upwind spinnaker	1-16 kts	70-75% of spinnaker
Storm Trysail	mainsail	small triangular mainsail replacement	> 45 kts	17.5% of mainsail
Drifter reacher	light air	large, light-weight genoa	1-15 kts	150-170% of genoa	30°-90°
Windseeker	light air	free-flying staysail	0-6 kts	85-100% of foretriangle
Storm jib	strong wind headsail	low triangular staysail	> 45 kts	< 65% height foretriangle

Why Use Different Sails At All?

You could just get the largest furling genoa and use it on all positions. So why would you actually use different types of sails?

The main answer to that is efficiency . Some situations require other characteristics.

Having a deeply reefed genoa isn't as efficient as having a small J3. The reef creates too much draft in the sail, which increases heeling. A reefed down mainsail in strong winds also increases heeling. So having dedicated (storm) sails is probably a good thing, especially if you're planning more demanding passages or crossings.

But it's not just strong winds, but also light winds that can cause problems. Heavy sails will just flap around like laundry in very light air. So you need more lightweight fabrics to get you moving.

What Are Sails Made Of?

The most used materials for sails nowadays are:

Dacron - woven polyester
woven nylon
laminated fabrics - increasingly popular

Sails used to be made of linen. As you can imagine, this is terrible material on open seas. Sails were rotting due to UV and saltwater. In the 19th century linen was replaced by cotton.

It was only in the 20th century that sails were made from synthetic fibers, which were much stronger and durable. Up until the 1980s most sails were made from Dacron. Nowadays, laminates using yellow aramids, Black Technora, carbon fiber and Spectra yarns are more and more used.

Laminates are as strong as Dacron, but a lot lighter - which matters with sails weighing up to 100 kg (220 pounds).

By the way: we think that Viking sails were made from wool and leather, which is quite impressive if you ask me.

In this section of the article I give you a quick and dirty summary of different sail plans or rig types which will help you to identify boats quickly. But if you want to really understand it clearly, I really recommend you read part 2 of this series, which is all about different rig types.

You can't simply count the number of masts to identify rig type But you can identify any rig type if you know what to look for. We've created an entire system for recognizing rig types. Let us walk you through it. Read all about sail rig types

As I've said earlier, there are two major rig types: square rigged and fore-and-aft. We can divide the fore-and-aft rigs into three groups:

Bermuda rig (we have talked about this one the whole time) - has a three-sided mainsail
Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
Lateen rig - has a three-sided mainsail on a long yard

Diagram of lateen-rigged mast with head yard, gaff-rigged mast with head beam, and bermuda-rigged mast with triangular sail

There are roughly four types of boats:

one masted boats - sloop, cutter
two masted boats - ketch, schooner, brig
three masted - barque
fully rigged or ship rigged - tall ship

Everything with four masts is called a (tall) ship. I think it's outside the scope of this article, but I have written a comprehensive guide to rigging. I'll leave the three and four-masted rigs for now. If you want to know more, I encourage you to read part 2 of this series.

One-masted rigs

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

The 3 most common one-masted rigs are:

Cat - one mast, one sail
Sloop - one mast, two sails
Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

1. Gaff Cat

White cat boat with gaff rig on lake and three people in it

2. Gaff Sloop

Two-masted rigs

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the main mast. Behind (aft of) the main mast is called a mizzen mast . In front of the main mast is called a foremast .

The 5 most common two-masted rigs are:

Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without mainsail.
Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Main mast carries small lateen rigged sail.

Lugger sails behind berth with rocks and small sloops in the foreground

4. Schooner

White schooner with white sails and light wooden masts

5. Brigantine

Replica of brigatine on lake with lots of rigging and brown, green, red, and gold paint

This article is part 1 of a series about sails and rig types If you want to read on and learn to identify any sail plans and rig type, we've found a series of questions that will help you do that quickly. Read all about recognizing rig types

Shawn Buckles

HI CVB, that’s a cool plan. Thanks, I really love to hear that. I’m happy that it was helpful to you and I hope you are of to a great start for your new adventure!

Hi GOWTHAM, thanks for the tip, I sometimes forget I haven’t specified the new term. I’ve added it to the article.

Nice article and video; however, you’re mixing up the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A started out with a question. What distinguishes a brig from a schooner? Which in turn led to follow-up questions: I know there are Bermuda rigs and Latin rig, are there more? Which in turn led to further questions, and further, and further… This site answers them all. Wonderful work. Thank you.

Great post and video! One thing was I was surprised how little you mentioned the Ketch here and not at all in the video or chart, and your sample image is a large ship with many sails. Some may think Ketch’s are uncommon, old fashioned or only for large boats. Actually Ketch’s are quite common for cruisers and live-aboards, especially since they often result in a center cockpit layout which makes for a very nice aft stateroom inside. These are almost exclusively the boats we are looking at, so I was surprised you glossed over them.

Love the article and am finding it quite informative.

While I know it may seem obvious to 99% of your readers, I wish you had defined the terms “upwind” and “downwind.” I’m in the 1% that isn’t sure which one means “with the wind” (or in the direction the wind is blowing) and which one means “against the wind” (or opposite to the way the wind is blowing.)

paul adriaan kleimeer

like in all fields of syntax and terminology the terms are colouual meaning local and then spead as the technology spread so an history lesson gives a floral bouque its colour and in the case of notical terms span culture and history adds an detail that bring reverence to the study simply more memorable.

Hi, I have a small yacht sail which was left in my lock-up over 30 years ago I basically know nothing about sails and wondered if you could spread any light as to the make and use of said sail. Someone said it was probably originally from a Wayfayer wooden yacht but wasn’t sure. Any info would be must appreciated and indeed if would be of any use to your followers? I can provide pics but don’t see how to include them at present

kind regards

You may also like, 17 sailboat types explained: how to recognize them.

Ever wondered what type of sailboat you're looking at? Identifying sailboats isn't hard, you just have to know what to look for. In this article, I'll help you.

Sailboat in front of NYC with Bermuda mainsail and Jib

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Life on a Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know About Living on a Sailboat Full-Time

Living on a sailboat full-time is often romanticized as a life of endless sunsets, gentle waves, and freedom on the open sea. Many dream of casting off the lines and setting sail for a horizon of adventure and tranquility. However, the reality of life aboard a sailboat can be as challenging as it is rewarding, as frustrating as it is relaxing, and, more often than not, as mundane as it is exciting.

This blog post aims to peel back the curtain on the picturesque scenes to reveal what daily life is really like when you call a sailboat home. We will dive into the motivations, preparations, joys, and challenges of living on a sailboat full-time, providing a realistic glimpse into a lifestyle that is far from ordinary.

Our Live-Aboard Life

Our dream of living on a sailboat was a distant one for many years. But as we watched plans and dreams fall by the wayside in the wake of COVID, we made the decision to make our dream a reality. Once the borders opened up, we made a beeline for the Mediterranean and have since spent each summer living aboard our little 29-foot sailboat Whisper. Without any experience sailing or living on a sailboat, we have taught ourselves to sail and manage life on the boat along the way.

Before we took up sail life, we had been living “van life,” and we’ve come to realize there are lots of similarities but quite a few differences between the two . However, on the whole, learning to live van life first put us in good stead to take on life on a sailboat. Unlike most people, we up-sized when we moved onto a boat.

Despite the upgrade in living quarters, the learning curve and the adjustment to living on the sea were no less challenging. Nevertheless, the shift was not as scary as we thought it might be, and the reality of living on a sailboat full-time quickly became our new normal.

Initially, our plan was to buy a boat and spend one season aboard sailing the Mediterranean before selling the boat and settling down. Instead, it’s safe to say we have fallen in love with life on a sailboat. Now, as we enter our third season, we aren’t sure when we will be ready to furl the sails for good…

Get a Taste of Life on a SailBoat

We document some of the realities of living on a sailboat full-time on our YouTube Channel in our The Vanabond Sails series.

Deciding to Live on a Sailboat

The journey to becoming a full-time live aboard often starts with the desire for change.

Some people are transitioning from one stage of life to the next as careers wind up or children move out. Some yearn for adventure and excitement, while others seek a simpler way of life. Many are drawn to the promise of freedom, the allure of the sea, and the appeal of living more closely with nature. However, the decision to live on a sailboat full-time is not one to be taken lightly. It requires thoughtful consideration and planning.

For us, it was a long-held dream to sail and live aboard a sailboat. It was also a natural progression, having spent several years living and traveling by van . We were ready for a new challenge.

It began with a conversation, then a plan, and then trawling classifieds for second-hand boat sales. Before long, the decision was set in stone, and we were on our way to Croatia to buy a boat , learn to sail it, and move aboard.

Choosing the Right Sailboat

The type of sailboat you choose is critical and depends on your budget, sailing skills, and the kind of sailing you plan to do (coastal cruising, bluewater voyaging, etc.).

Will you prefer the size and stability of a catamaran, or will you prioritize the sailing experience of a monohull? Are you looking for something small that’s easily controlled and maneuvered by a limited (and potentially inexperienced) crew, or do you require the space of a larger vessel? Are you interested in the clean lines and comforts of modern boat designs, or do you prefer the style of older boats? There are a thousand decisions to be made when choosing a boat, and your own aspirations for boat life and, of course, your budget will be critical when it comes to making this decision.

Spend as much time researching boats that are available in your price range, ask questions of sailors you know or on sailing forums, and, if possible, spend time aboard different types of sailboats to get a clearer picture of what life is really like on board before making a purchase.

Check out our full article on buying boat .

Emotional and Practical Considerations for Sail Life

Living on a sailboat means embracing minimalism and being comfortable with the idea of having less space and possessions.

You’ll need to consider the impact of such a lifestyle on relationships with family and friends, as it can mean spending long periods away from loved ones.

The decision also involves considering how to manage work or income while living at sea , which might include remote work, seasonal jobs, or living off savings.

There are plenty of options for those planning on working remotely while sailing. With the rise of remote work , there has never been more opportunity to work and sail.

All of these considerations represent potential challenges to adjusting to life at sea, but they are certainly not insurmountable. You just need to be honest with yourself and decide if your love of the open water and the freedom of living aboard a sailboat will be greater than the inconveniences.

Preparations and Adjustments

Transitioning to life on a sailboat involves a series of preparations and adjustments, both practical and psychological, to ensure a smooth and sustainable living experience.

Training and Skills

If you are thinking about taking up sailing, you should, of course, invest time in learning to sail, navigate, and understand weather patterns. While this may seem like a daunting task, it’s not an insurmountable one. Time on the water is the most important thing, so it’s time to sign up for sailing courses, start planning trips with sailing friends, join a local sailing club, or seek out opportunities to crew for other sailors.

Learning basic boat maintenance and repair is essential to manage the myriad challenges that come with life at sea.

Safety courses, such as first aid, sea survival, and radio operation, are also crucial for handling emergencies.

These skills are important for safe and comfortable sailing and are often legally required. Make sure you are aware of the licensing and registration requirements for sailors in the region you are preparing to sail.

In our case, I had experience sailing small dinghies as a child and thus some understanding of the fundamentals, while Kelli had zero experience. My existing marine license issued in Australia was recognized in Croatia, where we bought our boat. I only needed to acquire a VHF radio license to become adequately certified for inshore sailing in the Mediterranean.

We paid some local sailors to come aboard and teach us both the fundamentals of our new boat (lots of docking and anchoring practice).

Downsizing and Adapting to Limited Space and Resources

As mentioned, moving onto a boat was actually upsizing for us. With a second cabin, a flushing toilet, and a large indoor table, our relatively small 29-foot monohull seemed luxurious compared to the vans we had been living in until this point.

However, for most, moving onto a sailboat often means significant downsizing, and space becomes a premium commodity. The process of downsizing for sail life involves prioritizing essential items and learning to live without the comforts of a traditional home.

Space isn’t the only limitation on a boat. Reliance on water tanks (if you don’t have a watermaker) and solar, wind, or generator electricity often means a downshift in access to creature comforts we take for granted in a house on the grid.

Creativity in organizing and making the most of limited space and resources becomes a daily practice, requiring innovative storage solutions and multi-functional furniture. Most modern sailboats are well-designed with endless space-saving measures and designs. Nevertheless, an adjustment will likely be necessary.

Financial Planning

Financial considerations are paramount, as the cost of living on a sailboat can vary widely depending on factors like marina fees, maintenance costs, and lifestyle choices.

Setting a realistic budget that includes regular maintenance, unexpected repairs, and living expenses is essential for sustaining life at sea.

Depending on your personal aspirations for boat life, this lifestyle can be as affordable or as expensive as you want to be. For us, as a couple in our thirties still in the building and saving part of our lives and careers, we are able to live on a boat in the Mediterranean affordably and comfortably for far less than we (estimate) we would spend living a more stationary lifestyle.

Check out our full article on the Costs of Living on Sail Boat Full-Time

Overall, adjusting to the confines and challenges of sailboat living demands not only physical preparation but also mental resilience and adaptability. The transition from land to sea is a profound shift, requiring a willingness to embrace simplicity, flexibility, and a sense of adventure.

Daily Life Aboard

While there is no typical day aboard, and experiences will differ wildly from person to person and day to day, we can describe what many of our days do look like.

As we work from the boat, our weeks are generally divided into work days, Monday to Friday morning and weekends. The truth is that the novelty does wear off, and many days, especially during the working week, become just as mundane as any other lifestyle. However it never stays mundane for long, one exhilarating sail, a dolphin sighting, a picture perfect anchorage or even surviving an impromptu weather event and the thrill of living on a sailboat quickly returns.

A typical workday for us living on a sailboat often starts with the sunrise (or a little bit before if we have a lot on). Ideally, we are well rested after a still night without rolling swell or, worse, strong wind, but that isn’t always assured at sea. Mornings involve checking the weather first and foremost, all plans revolve around the direction and strength of the wind and waves.

If the weather is calm, we usually try to work in the mornings when we are fresh and focused.

We travel slowly, often spending a few days in a quiet, well-protected anchorage, on a town quay, or in a marina before moving on a short distance along the coast. On sailing days, we often sail in the afternoon when the winds are a bit stronger in the Mediterranean. On days we are staying put, the afternoon might be spent exploring a new town, getting provisions, swimming, or finding a beach to lie on and read a book. In the evening, we will cook dinner onboard and get some more work done or watch some TV.

Weekends look different, and we will take advantage of not needing to be close to reliable network services, completing longer passages along the coast, or visiting islands.

Daily Differences in Sail Life

Living spaces on a sailboat are compact and multifunctional, necessitating an organized and tidy approach to prevent clutter and ensure safety. Cooking in a small galley kitchen presents its challenges, from securing pots and pans on a constantly moving boat to managing limited ingredients and storage.

Meals often need to be simple yet nutritious, requiring creativity and planning. Our approach is to cook simple, one-pot, vegetarian meals like dal or vegetable curry two or three times during the workweek and eat leftovers for lunch and dinner. On the weekend, we like to get more creative with our meals, seeking out local produce or fresh seafood and taking our time to prepare something special.

As mentioned, resource management is a critical aspect of daily sailboat life, especially when it comes to conserving water, fuel, and electricity. Efficient use of these resources is vital, whether it involves careful water usage, monitoring power consumption, or planning the next opportunity to resupply. For us, an electricity supply is mainly dependent on the sun when we are not under motor or plugged into shore power. Extended periods of cloud can alter our plans. Similarly, if we are not careful with water, more frequent visits to refill are required, which can be limiting.

Personal hygiene and privacy take on a new meaning in the confined space of a sailboat. Showers may be quick and infrequent. In our case, we generally rinse off after a swim to bathe and take proper showers during marina stops. Personal space is limited on a sailboat and managing personal relationships can have extra challenges.

Sleeping on the boat can take some getting used to, especially when on anchor. Even on a calm day, the constant rocking of the water can be disruptive at first, and novice sailors may find they get seasick, although these symptoms usually go away after a few days. When it’s windy, or there is some swell, the noise, movement, and the ever-present worry that the boat may pull off its anchor with the movement can make it very difficult to get a good night’s sleep.

Unforecast storms, gear failure, or some other emergency can occasionally create scary and challenging scenarios, especially if disaster strikes late at night. These situations are part of the adventure but can certainly be stressful.

Despite the challenges, daily life on a sailboat is interspersed with moments of profound beauty and peace. Whether watching dolphins play in the bow wave, enjoying a sunset over the ocean, or stargazing on a clear night, these experiences often make the hardships worthwhile, offering a sense of freedom and connection to nature that is hard to find elsewhere.

The Pros and Cons of Living on a Sailboat Full-Time

Pros: the joys of sailboat living.

Living on a sailboat brings a unique set of joys and rewards that can make the challenges seem insignificant.

+ One of the most significant benefits is the sense of freedom and adventure. Sailboat dwellers have the luxury of exploring new destinations, anchoring in secluded bays, and experiencing different cultures in a way that most people never will. The ability to call a variety of picturesque locations home, even if only temporarily, is a remarkable aspect of this lifestyle. Even compared to other forms of nomadic lifestyle, waking up in your own private bay or cove is hard to re-create.

+ The connection with nature is unparalleled in sailboat living. Being surrounded by the vastness of the ocean, witnessing marine life up close, and experiencing the rhythms of the sea create a deep sense of harmony and peace. The simplicity of life on a boat can lead to a greater appreciation for the small things, like the beauty of a sunset, the changing colors of the sea, or the silence of a night watch under the stars.

+ Community and camaraderie are also central to the sailboat lifestyle. The sailing community is known for its close-knit, supportive nature, with fellow sailors often ready to lend a hand, share advice, or offer companionship. This sense of community extends across harbors and anchorages around the world, creating a global network of friends and contacts.

+ The personal growth and self-reliance developed through sailboat living are profound. Navigating the challenges and unpredictability of the sea fosters resilience, problem-solving skills, and a strong sense of self-confidence. The lifestyle encourages continuous learning, from mastering sailing and navigational skills to understanding weather patterns and marine ecosystems.

The Cons: The Challenges and Hardships of Liveaboard Life

While the joys of living on a sailboat are plentiful, the lifestyle also comes with its fair share of challenges and hardships. These difficulties test the resilience and adaptability of those who choose this way of life.

– One of the most significant challenges is dealing with bad weather. Storms, high winds, and rough seas can be terrifying and dangerous, requiring skill, experience (which you can only get by …experiencing it), and a calm demeanor to navigate safely (perhaps the trickiest thing to achieve). The stress from poor weather can be mentally draining, disrupt work, and put a strain on relationships.

– The learning curve required to become a confident and comfortable sailor is not small and can take many seasons while mastering sailing can take a lifetime.

– The constant exposure to the elements also means that maintenance is a never-ending task, with saltwater and sun causing wear and tear that must be regularly addressed to keep the boat functional and safe. Especially on an older boat like ours, fixing and maintaining gear and rigging is an endless cycle. Most systems and hardware on the boat are essential, and when they fail, there is often no one around to help. Constantly sorting out jammed anchors, engine or electrical issues can quickly become tiresome and (if you are trying to work) quite disruptive. It can also be quite stressful when critical systems fail.

– Isolation is another aspect of sailboat living that can be challenging. Long periods at sea or anchored in remote locations can lead to feelings of loneliness and disconnection from land-based communities. The confined space of a sailboat can strain relationships, making it essential for the crew, be it a couple, a family, or friends, to communicate effectively and give each other personal space.

– The financial aspect of sailboat living can also be a hardship. Unexpected repairs and maintenance can quickly drain savings, and the cost of mooring, fuel, and supplies can add up. Sailors must be adept at budgeting and often need to be resourceful in finding ways to sustain their lifestyle, which might include picking up temporary jobs or remote work.

– The physical demands of managing a sailboat should not be underestimated. It requires strength, stamina, and a willingness to tackle everything from sail repairs to engine troubleshooting. The learning curve can be steep, and the responsibility of keeping the boat and its occupants safe is a constant pressure.

Despite these challenges, many sailboat dwellers find that the hardships are part of what makes the lifestyle rewarding. Overcoming difficulties and learning to live in harmony with the sea can provide a profound sense of achievement and satisfaction.

Final Thoughts About Life on a Sailboat

Living on a sailboat full-time is a journey that encompasses the full spectrum of human experience, blending moments of sheer joy and beauty with times of challenge and adversity. It’s a lifestyle that demands resilience, adaptability, and a willingness to embrace the unknown. While the romantic allure of sailing the high seas is undeniable, the realities of daily life on a sailboat are grounded in practical challenges and the necessity of continual learning and personal growth.

The decision to live on a sailboat should not be made lightly, as it involves significant changes in lifestyle, mindset, and social dynamics. However, for those who choose to embark on this adventure, it offers unparalleled opportunities for freedom, exploration, and connection with nature. The hardships encountered along the way are not just obstacles but also catalysts for growth, leading to a deeper understanding of oneself and the world.

If you have a question about living on a sailboat full-time, let us know in the comments below or shoot us an email anytime!

Fair winds and following seas!

In 2016, I had been dumped by my girlfriend, fired from my job, and the lease on my house was running out. Facing moving back in with my parents, 26, jobless and alone I decided to listen to the message the universe was trying to send me. I took off on my first solo backpacking trip, with a one-way ticket to Bangkok and a well-thumbed Lonely Planet guide. From there I wandered Southeast and Central Asia, traveled the Great Steppe, and made my way across Russia and throughout Europe.

In Estonia I met Kelli, who, despite having a less frantic travel style, shared my my restless spirit and passion for exploration. Together, we embarked on a new journey, van life. Over four years we travelled across three different continents with three different vans.

In 2022, as the world began to re-open post COVID we took an opportunity to realise a long held dream, to live aboard a sailboat. Since then we have spent two summers in the Mediterranean, sailing and living aboard our little sail boat Whisper. When we aren't sailing we continue to live our nomadic lifestyle, guided by a philosophy of slow travel and self directed adventure be it by van or backpacking.

We find excitement through our journey into the unknown, stillness and content in the beauty of the places we discover and we find ourselves in the vastness of our world.

Hopefully, we can help you find what you're looking for too. Get lost with us and find your own path.

The Alternative to Huge Cruises? 3 Masts, 28 Sails and Wind Power.

We checked out the 136-passenger Sea Cloud Spirit on a Mediterranean cruise. In this era of gargantuan ships, its elegant clipper design, wooden decks and relatively small size stands out.

By Ceylan Yeğinsu

From the bridge of the three-masted windjammer, the Sea Cloud Spirit , the captain called out the words we’d all been waiting for.

“Let’s set the sails!” he cried, after turning off the engines, while maneuvering to maintain an optimum angle for his 18 deckhands to climb into the shrouds and unfurl the ship’s 44,132 square feet of sails by hand.

Like acrobats, the crew scurried up the masts to the upper topgallant sails that rose nearly 200 feet above us. The ship’s captain, Vukota Stojanovic, later insisted that none of it was for show. “Whenever there is an opportunity to sail, we sail,” he said.

For the next hour, the crew hauled the ropes until the 28 sails were billowing in the wind, propelling the 452-foot-long ship — the world’s largest passenger sailing vessel on which the sails are raised by hand — toward its first port of call, Portofino, Italy.

At a time when cruise lines are packing their ever-more-gargantuan ships with water parks and basketball courts, the 136-passenger Sea Cloud Spirit, with its old-fashioned clipper design and wooden decks, stands out. It is the newest ship from the Hamburg-based Sea Cloud Cruises , and while it is the company’s biggest, Sea Cloud said it wanted to leave space for passengers to connect to the surrounding elements.

“Wherever you are on the ship, it feels like you are sitting on the water,” said Amelia Dominick, 71, a retired real estate agent from Cologne, Germany, who was on her third cruise onboard the Sea Cloud Spirit.

I had arrived for a four-night “taster sailing” from Nice, France, to the Ligurian region of Italy, designed to entice passengers to sign up for a longer cruise. Here’s what I found.

The ship and cabins

The Spirit has many comforts and luxuries, including a fitness center, library, hair salon and a spa with a Finnish sauna that overlooks the sea. The deck layouts are spacious, with nooks carved out for privacy and relaxation.

Sixty-nine spacious cabins have windows that open onto the sea. My room, a junior suite on the third deck, had two large arched windows, mahogany tables, a balcony and a comfortable couch and armchair. The marble bathroom was lavish, with a gold-plated sink and large jetted bathtub.

The elegant interior design is inspired by the original Sea Cloud, built in 1931 for Marjorie Merriweather Post, the American heiress of the General Foods Corporation, with glossy wooden panels and gold trimmings. The Sea Cloud was the largest private sailing yacht in the world before Post handed it over to the U.S. Navy for use as a weather-reporting vessel during World War II. The four-mast, 64-passenger ship has since been restored to its former glory and will sail across the Aegean and Adriatic this summer.

The experience felt authentic — even before the sails were set — with a detailed safety drill. On most cruises, the drill entails a safety video and signing in at an assembly point. But here, passengers put on their life jackets and walked through emergency scenarios that included rationing food supplies and fishing from the lifeboat.

Each day, the sails were set, even during heavy rain and wind speeds over 30 knots. Guests wanting to participate in the rigging are usually invited to do so, but the weather conditions made it too risky for this sailing.

“It was amazing to watch the work go into putting the sails up and down and to experience the wind power pulling the ship so fast without the engines,” said Malte Rahnenfuehrer, a 50-year-old psychologist from Zurich, who was traveling with his partner and two children.

The captain

It is rare for cruise passengers to see the ship’s captain after the initial welcome drinks or gala dinner. But Capt. Vukota Stojanovic was omnipresent throughout the cruise, from setting sails to lifeguarding to mingling with guests.

Originally from Montenegro, Captain Stojanovic piloted container ships for years. When he was asked to consider helming the original Sea Cloud nearly 10 years ago, he hesitated because he had no experience sailing. Even after he learned the ropes — and there are 340 ropes (known as running rigging) on the vessel — he was unsure. “I grew to love the sailings, the boats, the crew the lifestyle, but I still felt I belonged on container ships,” he said. “It would be a big adjustment, especially because I would have to shave every day,” he joked.

Eventually, he accepted the opportunity and worked tirelessly to learn how to sail and operate the ship. Today, he keeps an “open bridge” policy, allowing passengers to visit the control room, even when he is wrestling with the wind.

“The crew and the passengers are all part of the experience, and I like to meet people and receive their feedback,” Captain Stojanovic said.

Environment

Sea Cloud Cruises aspires to take a “gentle” approach, using wind power to drive its ships wherever possible, even if that means changing course for optimal weather conditions. When sailing is not possible, the Spirit has two diesel-electric engines that run on low-sulfur marine diesel fuel. The company is also working with ports that have shore power capabilities to plug into the local electric power.

Onboard, there is an emphasis on reusable bottles and paper straws, and crew members separate solid waste to be compacted and removed when in port.

Excursions and Activities

We made stops in Portofino, San Remo, Italy, and St.-Tropez, France, anchoring offshore and getting to land by tender — a contrast to the big cruise ships with their loud horns and thick plumes of exhaust spewing from their funnels.

For passengers wanting to take a dip (there is no pool), the crew marked an area in the water with floats and an inflatable slide. The water was frigid, but many passengers took the plunge from the swimming deck. Guests could also take “Zodiac Safaris” around the ship to get views of the vessel from the water.

Excursions ranged from food and wine tours to e-biking and beach trips. In Portofino, passengers were free to explore the sights independently, including the Castello Brown Fortress and the lighthouse on Punta del Capo rock. There was ample time to eat meals on shore as the ship did not depart until 11 p.m. Over the summer, the Sea Cloud Spirit will sail to Spain, Portugal, France and the Azores, among other destinations. On Nov. 11, she will depart for St. Maarten in the Caribbean for the winter.

Wherever the vessel goes, said Mirell Reyes, president of Sea Cloud Cruise for North America, the company tries to “stay away from the crowds and ports where big cruise ships spit out 6,000 passengers.”

Summer prices, which include food and beverages, range from $3,995 for a four-night sailing in a superior cabin to $9,420 for a veranda suite. Seven-night sailings cost between $6,995 and $16,495.

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2024 .

Ceylan Yeginsu is a travel reporter for The Times who frequently writes about the cruise industry and Europe, where she is based. More about Ceylan Yeğinsu

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First State kayaking guide: Where to paddle out in Delaware, how to stay safe on the water

The weather is warm and the sun is out, so your paddles should be, too.

If you haven’t been taking advantage of all the kayaking fun a coastal state like Delaware has to offer, you’ve been missing out.

Don’t worry though, we’ve got a complete guide to kayaking in Delaware to help you jump on the wave.

Here are some of the best spots to paddle out in the First State and a quick lesson in water safety.

What to know before you go kayaking

Jetting into the open water as soon as your feet hit the shore might sound enticing, but there are a few things to note before you take your kayak out for a cruise.

When it comes to water activities like kayaking, it’s important to always check the weather, water levels of inland bodies of water and tidal conditions before heading out. You don’t want to end up in a torrential downpour far from shore or get caught in choppy waters.

Non-motorized kayaks do not require registration, but those with trolling motors do.

A personal floatation device is required for each person on a kayak or canoe. It must be approved by the U.S. Coast Guard, be the correct size for the wearer and be in serviceable condition. Children under 14 years of age must wear a PFD at all times while paddling or as a passenger, according to Kayak Guru.

In Delaware, boating under the influence is illegal and includes alcohol and drug use. Action can be taken if your blood alcohol level is found to be 0.08% or greater.

In case of emergency situations, visual distress signals are required on kayaks if paddling on coastal waters, and one to three of these devices is required depending on vessel length, according to the U.S. Coast Guard.

Examples of a daytime VDS include a signal mirror, which all personal floatation devices should have attached or in a pocket; an orange smoke canister, which can be seen from air or sea and smoke for 30 to 60 seconds; and a sea rescue, a long, bright orange banner that floats out from a kayak and is used to get the attention of rescuers.

A white light, which can be a flashlight, lantern or headlamp, is required to be displayed while paddling at night on any waters. While a strobe light is universally recognized as a distress signal and is good to have on board, it does not meet the requirements for a visual distress signal, according to TopKayaker.

Other VSDs used at night include:

Aerial flares, which are handheld and can send a signal between 300 and 500 feet.
Parachute flares, which fall slower than an aerial flare and are good for long-distance or open-water rescue efforts.
Flare pistols, which shoot higher and brighter than both aerial and parachute flares.

All kayakers also are required to carry a whistle or approved sound-making device. Three short busts on a whistle signal “help,” which can be remembered by thinking of the three-letter distress signal “S.O.S.”

Other sound-signaling devices include:

A foghorn or airhorn
A VHF marine radio. These have different channels used by important marine organizations and monitored 24/7 by the local Coast Guard.
Cell phones. If you opt to bring your phone on board, keep it in a dry-bag case or box while on the water.
A two-way radio, which commonly is pocket-size and has a range of about 2 miles.
An Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) and Personal Location Beacon (PLB) are two devices that emit a distress signal that is picked up by a satellite. This signal is then forwarded to the appropriate authorities.

Whichever safety devices you choose to invest in, practice how to use them, check their batteries and properly store them before venturing out on the water.

Where to go kayaking in Delaware

Now that we’ve got the basics out of the way, sit back, relax and enjoy these local water views you can paddle through.

Brandywine Creek State Park, near Centreville

Flowing through the state of Delaware, Brandywine passes by Chadds Ford and eventually joins with the Christina River above the confluence at the Delaware River in Wilmington.

In 1777, the riverbanks were the setting of the Battle of the Brandywine during the American Revolutionary War.

Playing pickleball: Delaware pickleball: Where to find pickleball courts with new courts coming soon

Today, a kayaking expedition will afford you views of bluegill and crappie in the creek, rolling meadows, nesting birds and rare native plants.

41 Adams Dam Road., near Centreville, (302) 577-3534; destateparks.com/brandywinecreek

Cape Henlopen State Park, near Lewes

Cape Henlopen State Park in Lewes was declared for common use by William Penn around 1682. Since then, the park’s domain has served as a beloved Delaware gem for all who stop by.

The park is at the mouth of the Delaware Bay and includes more than six miles of coastline. The Point is where the Delaware Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean. Kayakers can enjoy plenty of beautiful views, including the historic Cape Henlopen Lighthouse that is no longer in use.

Aside from a journey through the waves, paddlers can go for a quick swim, paddleboard or windsurf in the ocean, camp for an overnight or lounge on the beach all afternoon.

15099 Cape Henlopen Drive, Lewes, (302) 645-8983; destateparks.com/Beaches/CapeHenlopen.

Delaware Seashore State Park, near Rehoboth Beach

In Rehoboth Beach, Delaware Seashore State Park offers a variety of kayaking options filled with scenic landscapes you won’t want to miss. The park features six miles of ocean and 20 miles of bay shoreline, with the Indian River Inlet connecting the Indian River and Rehoboth bays with the Atlantic Ocean. There is a beach on either side of the inlet.

Visitors can access the Indian River, Little Assawoman Bay and shallow waters in the Rehoboth Bay from the location. Savage Ditch, one of several places to launch at the park, gives way to views of local islands like Burton Island Nature Preserve and birdwatching spots.

Aside from kayaking, visitors can enjoy swimming, surfing, windsurfing and sailing. The park also features rich maritime history to brush up on before you leave.

39415 Inlet Road Rehoboth Beach, (302) 227-2800; destateparks.com/Beaches/DelawareSeashore.

Mispillion River, Milford

The Mispillion River in Milford winds from the city to the Delaware Bay and is accessible by a public boat ramp located behind the police department.

Kayakers will find plenty of opportunities to view wildlife, including passing through the Milford Neck Wildlife Area, along the 15-mile ride.

For a lengthy excursion, consider checking out the six-hour journey to the take-out at the Slaughter Beach boat ramp on Cedar Creek.

Fenwick Island State Park, Fenwick Island

Fenwick Island State Park grants kayakers access to inland bays with stunning open water views.

Bethany Beach sits to the north of the location while Ocean City, Maryland and Fenwick Island lie to the south.

Kayakers will find the waters calmer, and less crowded, than other locations around the state. Coastal breezes off the Atlantic Ocean and dozens of waterfront homes to ogle make this a scenic route fit for anyone looking for a relaxing paddle.

Route 1, Fenwick Island, (302) 227-2800; destateparks.com/Beaches/FenwickIsland

Lums Pond State Park, near Glasgow

Near Glasgow, Lums Pond State Park not only has great nature views, but also features a zipline course for any kayakers looking for some entertainment while on the water.

After you drag your kayak back to shore, consider going on a hike or cycling through the park’s trails. Pets can come, too!

1068 Howell School Road, Bear, (302) 368-6989; destateparks.com/pondsrivers/LumsPond

Killens Pond State Park, near Felton

Killens Pond is a 66-acre millpond offering a peaceful place to paddle.

Resident nesting bald eagles are frequently spotted, and a list of other wildlife, including several fish species, are common sights.

Visitors can paddle around the lake or head up the Murderkill River on the canoe trail.

3015 Paradise Alley Road, near Felton, (302) 284-3412; destateparks.com/PondsRivers/KillensPond

Trap Pond State Park, near Laurel

Trap Pond State Park in Laurel offers a bald cypress swamp for visitors to enjoy, along with several other natural attractions.

Kayakers can enjoy the Terrapin Branch Water Trail and get an inside look at all wildlife and vegetation in the area. Birds are a fan-favorite visitor to spot, and you can learn more about which winged friends you spotted by visiting the nature center after your paddle.

The picnic amenities on-site would be a great way to spend your midday paddle break.

33587 Baldcypress Lane, near Laurel, (302) 875-5153; destateparks.com/TrapPond

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Fort DuPont State Park, Delaware City

If you’re seeking a spot to launch into the Delaware River, Fort DuPont State Park might be just for you.

Most of the Delaware River flows outside of state lines, but from launching site within the park, you can paddle by pieces of Delaware history and explore the surrounding canals

Pea Patch Island, in the middle of the Delaware River, is accessible from the park and is a fun choice for anyone wanting to see the wild bird refuge up close.

Remember that you can’t land on the island unless you’re a passenger on the ferry, though.

Wilmington Avenue, Delaware City, (302) 834-7941; destateparks.com/History/FortDupont

Holts Landing State Park, Dagsboro

Holts Landing State Park is located along the Indian River Bay and features salt marsh, shoreline, maritime forest and intertidal zone.

The bay waters are touted as a great spot for kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding and windsurfing. As one of the quieter recreational parks, Holts Landing is also a great spot for family fun, fishing or a walk through a variety of ecosystems.

27046 Holts Landing Road, Dagsboro, (302) 227-2800; destateparks.com/HoltsLanding.

Broadkill River, Milton

Milton’s Broadkill River flows from the town and empties into the Delaware Bay.

Kayakers interested in this route can launch at the public ramp located at Milton Memorial Park before flowing through coastal marshes, forests and the Edward H. McCabe Nature Preserve .

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can paddle the five hours to Lewes and head out into the bay at Roosevelt Inlet.

Need a low-cost day trip? 12 Delaware nature centers with indoor and outdoor programs

Rehoboth Bay, Rehoboth Beach

The Rehoboth Bay in Sussex County is one of the state’s water bodies that connects to several other waterways, such as the Lewes and Rehoboth Canal, which connect to the Broadkill River.

In the south, the bay connects to the Indian River Bay before combining to form a tidal exchange to the Atlantic Ocean through the Indian River Inlet.

Kayakers can launch at the Rehoboth Bay Marina or at Dewey Beach, where creeks and canals can be explored. Ancient burial sites on Thompson Island and wildlife (including bald eagles) are markers to keep an eye out for.

Got a tip or a story idea? Contact Krys'tal Griffin at [email protected] .

Paddling around: The ins and outs of kayaking at Presque Isle State Park

Late spring brings kayak season at the peninsula.

Greg Clarke, owner of Presque Isle Boat Rental , has some thoughts about how to make the most out of your voyage.

“The nice thing about paddling down where we’re at, first you don’t have to worry about putting your kayak on your car or trying to unload it and load it again," Clarke said. "We throw everything in for you. We have paddles, we put the kayak in the water for you, help you get in and give you any instruction that you may need and also give you a map to show you some of the area and nature that you might want to see.”

Most of his customers start from the lagoons just past Perry Monument, where the rental business is located.

"Most people will go directly into the lagoons," Clarke said. "A lot will paddle just in the lagoons while others will venture through Graveyard Pond on the way out of the lagoons going into Misery Bay. This is where they will check out the houseboats at Horseshoe Pond. Some people like to take the loop starting at the boat rental going through the lagoons then under a bridge that takes you through marina bay and then into Presque Isle Bay and then loop around Presque Isle and go around Perry Monument into Misery Bay and then back into graveyard back to the boat rental."

The route that Clarke described is equivalent to about a 5½-mile paddle, which means a good workout with a wonderful view of nature.

"Even for novice paddlers, depending on where the wind blows, there’s always somewhere where you are not going to run into waves or anything like that," Clarke said. "It’s very well protected back there so it’s a great place for beginner paddlers."

The hidden gems of the lagoons at Presque Isle

Nature is exactly what kayakers will get when visiting Presque Isle for a kayak trip.

Visitors who come early are likely to observe some hidden wonders, including nests from the lagoons area , birds and other wildlife.

More: Explore Presque Isle waters with a free pontoon boat ride from DCNR. What to know

“The lagoons are awesome, especially paddling in the morning or the evening you’ll see a lot of osprey," Clarke said. "There’s actually five osprey nests down there. There’s a pair of nesting eagles down there. This time of year it’s starting to get tough to see the nests, but in the early Spring and in the Fall you can see the nests from the lagoons area."

Stay safe while kayaking

Although the air temperatures may be warming up, let's not forget that the water temperatures are much different.

Both the Coast Guard and Fish Commission recommend that kayakers always wear a life vest while paddling.

"That’s a big thing I key in on as we always promote wearing a life vest, especially this time of year where the water temperature is cooler," Clarke said. "And you’ll get hypothermia, especially if you are paddling out into the lakes. That’s one of the biggest tips that I can give anybody."

Another safety tip from Clarke is if you feel unsure about the conditions you are getting ready to paddle in, you would be much better off waiting a day for better conditions.

How much does it cost to rent a kayak at Presque Isle?

At Presque Isle Boat Company, renting a single-person kayak which holds up to 280 pounds will cost kayakers $20 for the first hour and $10 for every additional hour. There's a $40 deposit to reserve in advance.

If you want to have some company and rent a two-person kayak, or a tandem kayak, the cost will be $30 for the first hour with $12 for every additional hour. These kayaks can also hold up to 450 pounds and will require a $50 deposit for anyone looking to reserve one ahead of time.

Plan to go fishing? The company offers fishing kayaks that can hold up to 280 pounds. A fishing kayak will cost renters $20 for the first hour with $10 for any additional hours. There's a $50 deposit to reserve in advance.

When to rent kayaks

Kayak season runs from May to October, depending on the weather.

Presque Isle Boat Company is open on weekends from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., then starting on Memorial Day the shop will be open Monday through Friday 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday to Sunday 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Hours of operation are subject to change depending on the weather.

More: Presque Isle, Erie Land lighthouses opening for 2024 season. What to know before you go

Learn more about kayak rentals from Presque Isle Boat tours by visiting their website or calling 814-838-3938.

Other places in Erie to rent a kayak

Two other businesses in Erie will also rent out kayaks for a nice stroll on Lake Erie and out towards North East.

Port Erie Sports at 402 West Bayfront Parkway has kayak rentals available for two hours. Single kayaks are $25 and double kayaks are $35.

You can also rent stand-up paddle boards for $25 an hour.

To learn more about Port Erie Sports or to make a kayak reservation, give them a call at 814-452-2628.

If you are also in the North East area looking for a kayak rental, check out The Voyage Kayak Rental at 10 South Lake St.

The Voyage Kayak Rental offers rentals for half day and full day. The half-day rentals are for less that 4 hours and will cost $25.

A full-day rental for more than 4 hours will cost $50. Voyage Kayak Rental also offers delivery for an additional $10 per kayak, along with a group rate for delivery if anyone rents multiple kayaks.

To learn more or make a kayak reservations, call 814-392-5507.

Contact Nicholas Sorensen at [email protected] .

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missing swimmer

Body of missing boater found in Lake Michigan after small boat capsizes near Winnetka: fire dept.

WINNETKA, Ill. (WLS) -- Coverage of this story has moved here .

On Monday morning, the body of a woman was found in Lake Michigan after crews searched for hours after a boat capsized Sunday night.

ABC7 Chicago is now streaming 24/7. Click here to watch

On Sunday, two women sailed from Evanston in a 12-foot sailboat, before it capsized at dusk.

Around 2 a.m. Monday, one of the women swam about two miles to the shore of Tower Road Beach asking for help, according to the fire department.

The woman told authorities the second woman, 50, was still missing.

The Winnetka Fire Department began a search and rescue mission shortly after the first woman was found.

After several hours of searching, the Coast Guard found the second victim's body around 7 a.m. about a mile off shore north of Winnetka. She was taken into Chicago's Montrose Harbor.

The Cook County Medical Examiner confirmed the woman's death. The victim's identity has not been released.

The sailboat was found about two to three miles off shore, according to the fire department.

This comes as crews searched for a man reportedly fell off a boat on Saturday afternoon near the enclosed boating area, also known as the "Playpen," close to downtown.

After about an hour of searching for the 58-year-old man on Saturday, crews called off the search for the night.

Divers were back on Sunday, but there was no word yet if anyone was found. The search was suspended once again.

READ ALSO | Crews resume recovery mission for man who fell off boat at Chicago 'Playpen': CFD

Missing Swimmer

Body found in Lake Michigan ID'd as missing swimmer: ME

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Body found in lake identified as missing swimmer: Winnetka authorities

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Opinion Is Donald Trump okay?

His story about hypothetically being electrocuted is another glimpse into a mind that is unwell.

It is irresponsible to obsess over President Biden’s tendency to mangle a couple of words in a speech while Donald Trump is out there sounding detached from reality. Biden, who is old , at least makes sense. Trump, who also is old , rants like someone you’d cross the street to avoid.

We in the media have failed by becoming inured to Trump’s verbal incontinence — not just the rapid-fire lies and revenge-seeking threats, but also the frightening glimpses into a mind that is, evidently, unwell. In 2016, Trump said outrageous things at his campaign rallies to be entertaining. In 2024, his tangents raise serious questions about his mental fitness.

His rally on Sunday in Las Vegas offered a grim smorgasbord of examples, but the obvious standout (and not in a good way) is the story he told about being aboard a hypothetical electric-powered boat . He posits that the battery would be so heavy that it would cause the craft to sink, and he relates his purported conversation with a knowledgeable mariner about this scenario. Bear with me, but it’s worth reading the passage in full:

“I say, ‘What would happen if the boat sank from its weight, and you’re in the boat, and you have this tremendously powerful battery, and the battery’s now underwater, and there’s a shark that’s approximately 10 yards over there?’ “By the way, a lot of shark attacks lately, do you notice that? Lot of sharks. I watched some guys justifying it today: ‘Well they weren’t really that angry, they bit off the young lady’s leg because of the fact that they were not hungry but they misunderstood who she was.’ These people are crazy. He said, ‘There’s no problem with sharks, they just didn’t really understand a young woman swimming.’ No, really got decimated, and other people, too, a lot of shark attacks. “So I said, ‘There’s a shark 10 yards away from the boat, 10 yards, or here. Do I get electrocuted if the boat is sinking, water goes over the battery, the boat is sinking? Do I stay on top of the boat and get electrocuted, or do I jump over by the shark and not get electrocuted?’ Because I will tell you, he didn’t know the answer. “He said, ‘You know, nobody’s ever asked me that question.’ I said, ‘I think it’s a good question. I think there’s a lot of electric current coming through that water.’ But you know what I’d do if there was a shark or you get electrocuted? I’ll take electrocution every single time. I’m not getting near the shark. So we’re going to end that, we’re going to end it for boats, we’re going to end it for trucks.”

Trucks? He’s actually talking about the transition to electric vehicles , which he has vowed to halt. That entire hallucination is part of Trump’s rationale for one of his major policy positions.

Trump has told the electrocution-or-shark story at least once before , at a rally in Iowa last October. Stormy Daniels , the adult-film actress who received $130,000 in hush money to keep quiet about her sexual encounter with Trump — a payment that led to the former president’s conviction on 34 felony charges — has said that Trump is “obsessed with sharks, terrified of sharks.” Way back in 2013, he declared on Twitter: “Sharks are last on my list — other than perhaps the losers and haters of the World!”

The White House press corps would be in wolf pack mode if Biden were in the middle of a speech and suddenly veered into gibberish about boats and sharks. There would be front-page stories questioning whether the president, at 81, was suffering from dementia; and the op-ed pages would be filled with thumb-suckers about whether Vice President Harris and the Cabinet should invoke the 25th Amendment . House Republicans would already have scheduled hearings on Biden’s mental condition and demanded he take a cognitive test.

The tendency with Trump, at 77, is to say he’s “just being Trump.” But he’s like this all the time.

Also during the Las Vegas speech, Trump tried to deny the allegation by one of his White House chiefs of staff, retired Marine Gen. John F. Kelly, that he refused in 2018 to visit an American military cemetery in France, saying it was filled with “suckers” and “losers.” Trump told the crowd on Sunday that “only a psycho or a crazy person or a very stupid person” would say such a thing while “I’m standing there with generals and military people in a cemetery.”

But he wasn’t “standing there” with anybody. He never went to the cemetery .

Except in his mind, perhaps, which is a much bigger problem than Biden fumbling a name or garbling a sentence.

Our big list of how to stay cool in a North Jersey heat wave

Heads for the hills!

Or at least the pool.

A heat wave is upon us, and it's time to figure out how to cool off.

For some, that might be finding a table at a restaurant so cold and dark that you'll need a sweater. For others, it might mean renting a kayak or a paddleboat to get out on the water. For still others, it could be a simple as sitting quietly by a fountain.

Over the years, we've written about lots of ways to keep cool in a heat wave, including where to get takeout and how to cook without heating up the kitchen. We thought it would be nice to roundup all of those stories here.

So sit — hopefully in your air-conditioned home — and take in our advice. But let us dole out one more piece of it first: Some of these stories are from our archive, so please call ahead to make sure nothing's changed before you head out to cool off.

The government can help: Cooling centers where you can find relief

For emergency relief, here's a look at cooling centers in Bergen, Passaic, Morris and Sussex counties. Please call to check hours before heading to these centers. Cool off here: The government can help: Cooling centers where you can find relief .

Looking to cool off? Here are five places you can swim in North Jersey this summer

Whether you are just looking to float and relax, or you are up for a little bit of daring fun, here are some options to keep cool. Splashdown here: Looking to cool off? Here are five places you can swim in North Jersey this summer .

Story continues below gallery .

6 cold, dark North Jersey restaurants where you can beat the heat

As temperatures are on the rise in New Jersey, alfresco dining may seem like punishment, rather than a delightful summer experience. Weather this oppressive can only be combated by hiding out in the air-condition-chilled, dimly lit, cold-beer-pouring local bars and steakhouses. Here are a few chilly havens to help you survive the heatwave. Take your sweater: 6 cold, dark North Jersey restaurants where you can beat the heat

How did people survive heat waves before air conditioning? It wasn't pretty

Heat used to bring people outside — to congregate, not only at the park or the seashore, but also to city stoops, where they sat chatting with their neighbors and fanning themselves. And every conversation began the same way. "Hot enough for you?" Grab your handheld fan : How did people survive heat waves before air conditioning? It wasn't pretty

Too hot to cook? These new North Jersey restaurants will do it for you

Problem: It's too, too hot to cook. Solution: Restaurants. Get thee out to an air-conditioned restaurant where someone else is willing to cook, serve and clean up so you don't have to. ( This story is from 2022 and since it published, The Smoking Crab & Seafood Co. in Paterson has closed.) Pick up your fork: Too hot to cook? These new North Jersey restaurants will do it for you

Another summer heat wave is coming. Here are 10 ways to stay cool in the kitchen

With a hat-tip to Cole Porter, when the thermometer goes way up and the temperature is sizzling hot — it's no time to be slaving over the stove. Here are 10 suggestions for keeping it cool in the kitchen. Step away from the oven: Another summer heat wave is coming. Here are 10 ways to stay cool in the kitchen .

In summer, what's better — or wetter — than a fountain? Our favorites in NJ

Water can be more than a necessity. It can be an art. Swimming pools? Meh. A hole, with a plank at one end. Likewise the Atlantic Ocean. It comes in, it goes out. But a fountain? That's water raised to the level of a symphony. Spilling out of concrete bowls! Cascading over artificial rocks and rills! Trickling over bronze lily pads! Shooting into the sky like a geyser, or dribbling from the mouth of a marble cupid! Who doesn't love a fountain? Lily pads and Cupids, right this way: In summer, what's better — or wetter — than a fountain? Our favorites in NJ

Splash, swim or sail: Here are places to get out on the water in NJ this summer

From crabbing on cruises to hydrobiking across Lake Hopatcong, there is plenty to do this summer on the water, and with the hot weather this summer, it’s more tempting than ever. (The Famous Hot Dog Man has since closed.) Take the plunge: Splash, swim or sail: Here are places to get out on the water in NJ this summer Another option, with whale watching!: Get out on the water this summer

Haven't we rounded this up before? Why yes, and here you go...

North Jersey is set to scorch, with temperatures forecast in the high-90s through the week. With a heat wave looming over the the region, it's more important than ever to find ways to stay cool. Take our advice : H ow to stay cool as a heat wave hits North Jersey, from cooling centers to swimming spots

A first-time guide to Naples, Florida

Jun 20, 2024 • 7 min read

The beaches in Naples are ideal whether you're traveling solo, with your sweetheart or with family © Susanne Pommer / Shutterstock

Located on the southeast edge of the Florida peninsula, the cozy coastal town of Naples is a wonderful choice for your next weekend escape, romantic getaway or family trip.

The area offers plenty of water sports, fine dining and upscale shopping, though its pristine beaches alone are enough for a relaxing vacation, and the super friendly people here are more than willing to reveal their insider tips about the Paradise Coast.

While reports show that Naples is home to some of the wealthiest people in the US, the cost of living here is still more affordable than other popular Florida cities like Miami or Palm Beach. And despite the rumors that the city isn’t the most diverse, I, as a Black woman, feel very safe and welcomed by the locals.

Here’s what you need to know to make the most of your first time in Naples.

When should I go to Naples?

The best time to visit Naples is between March and May. Notably, it has yet to become a popular spring break spot, so you'll find it peaceful this time of year. The weather is at its most pleasant, and accommodations are reasonably priced.

From June to September, Naples gets very hot, with lots of rain and average temperatures over 90ºF (32ºC), sometimes even exceeding 100ºF (38ºC). If you visit around this time, be sure to bring an umbrella, as hurricane season for the Sunshine State is July through October. Although the weather is dicey, you'll find some decent deals around this time.

Winters in Naples are mild but still offer an escape from the cold weather, as average temperatures linger around the mid-70s Fahrenheit (around 24ºC). This is also an ideal time for birdwatching and wildlife spotting.

How much time should I spend in Naples?

Naples is the perfect destination for a three-day weekend trip and, in my opinion, works best for anyone looking for a quick solo or romantic getaway to experience the white sandy beaches and great food. Stay longer, and you can make time for day trips to nearby destinations like Fort Myers and Everglades National Park .

Cars are parked alongside white buildings on a street lined with palm trees at sunset

How do I get to Naples?

Although Naples does have its own airport, it’s primarily reserved for those flying on private airplanes. In fact, while you’re in the city, you can often see stylish jets in the sky throughout the day.

That said, you’ll likely want to fly into Southwest Florida International Airport (RSW), located in Fort Myers, which is roughly a 35-minute drive to Old Naples. The average price of a rideshare is roughly $50 or so, depending on the time of day.

Is it easy to get around Naples?

Naples is certainly a very walkable town in most areas – especially near and around the bustling 5th Ave South. For those looking to rent a car, it’s also a driveable city without heavy traffic, and it has a decent number of both paid and free parking options.

From personal experience, rideshares are your best bet for getting around, especially for short weekend getaways. Uber pick-up times are fast, with average waits of three to five minutes, and prices range from roughly $7–16 per ride.

Sunloungers are arranged around a stylish rooftop pool, which is illuminated with pale blue lights

Where to stay in Naples

The AC Naples Marriott opened its doors in 2023 and is a great option for a cozy yet luxurious stay. It’s just a five-minute drive to 5th Ave South, where you’ll find plenty of luxe boutiques and dining options. In the heart of Old Naples, this three-story property offers an intimate and boutique-like experience with excellent service, modern rooms, a rooftop pool and Mediterranean bar, Limón . A one-night stay will cost roughly $160–200.

If you’re looking for slightly more budget-friendly hotels during your stay, try the Courtyard Naples (around $114–240 per night) or the Residence Inn Naples (approximately $118–175 per night).

There are also plenty of lodging options for easy beach access, such as the Naples Grande Beach Resort (roughly $197–235 per night) or the Naples Bay Resort & Marina (around $190–219 per night.)

Top things to do in Naples

Explore the picture-perfect beaches.

Southwest Florida's beaches are certainly worth the hype, with plenty of gorgeous white-sand stretches to choose from. My personal favorite in Naples is, hands-down, Clam Pass Park . It’s free to access (except for a $10 parking fee) and open to the public daily from 8am until sunset. When you first arrive, you’ll need to walk down a three-quarter-mile wooden boardwalk, which is more easily covered on the free tram service. The 35-acre beach features plenty of marine life and coastal birds. There’s also no shortage of activities like nature walks and fishing.

Despite the slightly overpriced beach chairs and umbrellas, this family-friendly beach has calm, blue waters and some of the most beautifully glistening seashells scattered across the sands. There’s also a snack bar, restrooms, bike racks and foot showers. Be sure to bring your own towels, though, as there aren’t any available for the general public to rent; they’re reserved for guests staying at beachfront resorts.

Other popular beaches to visit include Vanderbilt Beach, Tigertail Beach and Marco Island Beach. If you’re looking for dog-friendly beaches, take your pup to Bonita Beach Dog Park, Gulfside City Park Beach and Lighthouse Beach Park. Various water-based activities to try at local beaches include parasailing, jet skiing and dolphin spotting.

A pond filled with water lilies reflects the many tropical trees and plants that surround it at the Naples Botanical Gardens in Naples, Florida.

Enjoy some off-the-beach activities

If you’re a nature lover, head to the Naples Botanical Gardens to see rainforest plants, succulent displays and waterlily-laden pools in tropical-themed gardens. They also host regular kid-friendly events and have a restaurant with garden views called the Fogg Café.

Popular festivals throughout the year include the Naples Seafood & Music Festival , the Naples Craft Beer Fest and Naples Downtown Art Fair .

Take a boat tour

If you’re looking for fun local boating experiences, La Gondola offers private tours in the heart of Naples on authentic Venetian gondolas – perfect for a romantic date night in the town. Another fun option is Naples Princess Cruises . You’ll want to book both in advance as they sell out quickly.

Eat and drink at Naples’ top restaurants

Campiello: If there’s one spot that will make you mistake Naples, Florida, for its Italian namesake, it’s Campiello . This award-winning Italian restaurant features a rustic contemporary menu with wood-fired meats and pizzas – get the Margherita.

D'Amico’s Continental Naples: This upscale butcher steak house restaurant was ranked not only one of the best in Florida but also one of the best in the country – and rightfully so. Commonly known as The Continental , this spot has a menu full of premium steak, seafood and cocktail options, as well as an impressive 39-page wine list.

Jane's Café on 3rd: Included in nearly every Naples food guide and raved about by all the locals, the celebrated brunch spot Jane’s Café on 3rd definitely lives up to the hype, from its “lobster smashed avocado Benedict” to its French toast.

Rocco’s Tacos and Tequila Bar: If you’re looking for something more casual, Rocco’s Tacos is a great choice for tacos, birrias, quesadillas and taco burgers. For anyone traveling on a budget, it also has regular happy hours and Taco Tuesdays specials.

A fountain with palm trees stands in front of a row of tall, colorful, European-style buildings

My favorite thing to do in Naples

As a cafe lover, I enjoy frequenting coffee shops everywhere I travel to enjoy a good cup of joe alongside the locals. Something about the ambiance and environment just makes me feel at home no matter where I am in the world. EJ’s Bayfront Cafe made for a simple yet lovely experience on a recent trip to Naples.

There’s often a short wait to get in, but the menu is a brunch lover’s dream, and it's known for having some of the best comfort food in town. It's just steps away from the ocean and has plenty of outdoor seating. A fan favorite is the banana-stuffed French toast platter with thick-cut challah bread, stuffed with sliced bananas and rolled in cinnamon and sugar. The food arrives extremely fast, and the service is top-notch.

How much money do I need for Naples?

Despite Naples being one of the most affluent towns in America, travel accommodations are fairly reasonable – especially if you limit excursions. Shopping at local boutiques will set you back the most, especially along 5th Ave South. Food and drinks are fairly priced, and the majority of restaurants don't have additional service charges.

You could easily plan a two-night stay for under $1000, including a roundtrip non-stop flight from New York City, for example.

Average costs:

Dinner for two: $80–215 (or more)
Brunch for two: $60–90+
Mid-range hotel off-peak, midweek in summer: $100–250+
Beer/pint at the bar: $7–10
Cocktail: $15–18
Ice cream: $6–8

Mariya traveled to Naples on the invitation of Marriott Bonvoy. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

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IMAGES

Staysails
Adding a staysail
Custom Staysail Schooner
Staysails: 5 tips on using them to turbocharge your boat speed
What is a Sailboat Stay?
Airbnb Massachusetts: Rent a sailboat for a unique summer getaway

VIDEO

Stay
Sailing the Dream
Living on a Boat: Amenities at the Marina Explained
Moments in Time Boat Show Debut #seawind 1260 #Moments in Time #Annapolis Sailboat Show #Sail Away
Watch Out for Rocks!
Stay calm and keep on sailing

COMMENTS

Stays (nautical)
Stays (nautical) Stays are ropes, wires, or rods on sailing vessels that run fore-and-aft along the centerline from the masts to the hull, deck, bowsprit, or to other masts which serve to stabilize the masts. [1] A stay is part of the standing rigging and is used to support the weight of a mast . It is a large strong rope, wire or rod extending ...
Rig for a Staysail
When you install this equipment, make sure that the inner stay runs parallel to the headstay, meeting the mast about two-thirds of the hoist of the foretriangle. This means that the stay will meet the mast at about the same place as the head of the reefed main. Most cruising-boat masts are sufficiently overbuilt that when the boat is hard on ...
What is a Sailboat Stay?
A sailboat stay is a cable or line that supports the mast. Stays bear a significant portion of the mast load. Stays are a significant part of a sailboat's standing rigging, and they're essential for safe sailing. Stays support the mast and bear the stress of the wind and the sails. Losing a stay is a serious problem at sea, which is why it's ...
Staysails: 5 tips on using them to turbocharge your boat speed
2. No penalty power. The beauty of the staysail is that rating rules like IRC and ORC don't penalise you for using it. It's measured as a jib, so you're getting added power for no penalty.
Staysail
Staysail. A staysail ("stays'l") is a fore-and-aft rigged sail whose luff can be affixed to a stay running forward (and most often but not always downwards) from a mast to the deck, the bowsprit, or to another mast.
Offshore Log: The Reefing Staysail
The Staysail. First and foremost the furling staysail is your heavy-weather headsail. The maximum size the sail should be is 5% of the height of the foretriangle squared. For a boat with a 53-foot foretriangle height—typical of a masthead 40-footer—the maximum area of the staysail would be 140 square feet.
Cruising Sail Trim Guide: Staysail
Cruising Sail Trim Guide: Staysail. Cruising with your staysail can add horsepower and ease, giving you options in a variety of conditions. Learn how to make the most of your cruising experience with Quantum expert Dave Flynn's staysail trim guide. Optimal staysail conditions - close reaching, 12 knots of breeze. The staysail plays three roles:
The DIY Solent Stay or Inner Forestay
A Solent stay is a stay that sets between the mast and the forestay. It connects to the mast at a point that is only slightly below the existing backstay, and meets on the deck only slightly abaft of the existing forestay. Under such an arrangement, the mast requires no additional support. The existing backstay provides adequate tension to ...
Standing Rigging (or 'Name That Stay')
A sailboat's standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ®, carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO. 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which ...
Adding a staysail
Ocean Navigator January 1, 2003. Staysails are an evolution of the many different jibs flown by commercial ships in the age of sail. Their history on yachts has had many incarnations. Many voyaging sailboats could benefit from the addition of a staysail to a single headsail sailplan. Adding a staysail gives a boat a small jib that can balance ...
Staysails
The spinnaker staysail is a tall, narrow, very light sail used under a symmetrical or asymmetrical spinnaker when the apparent wind direction is within a range from 5 or 10 degrees forward of the beam to 20 or 25 degrees behind the beam. The sail is intended to have its tack set on the center-line of the foredeck about one quarter to one third ...
Forestay
Forestay. On a sailing vessel, a forestay, sometimes just called a stay, is a piece of standing rigging which keeps a mast from falling backwards. It is attached either at the very top of the mast, or in fractional rigs between about 1/8 and 1/4 from the top of the mast. The other end of the forestay is attached to the bow of the boat.
How Tight Should Your Stays Be?
Ideally, you want to have a backstay adjuster present that way you can adjust your headstay tension while you sail along. Headstay tension is the last stay that should be thought of as a static setting. Windward performance depends on headstay tension. The tighter the headstay (to a point) the better your ability to point will be.
Adding a Staysail? Inner Forestay Setup Options
This pulls the stay towards the mast and can facilitate easier tacking without removing the sail / stay. To re-hoist the staysail - simply tension the stay, release the sail ties and hoist away! All of the above options also require a staysail halyard sheave box in the mast and sail luff tension is adjusted via the halyard. Furling system
Sailboat Stays: Everything You Need to Know
Short answer sailboat stays: Sailboat stays, also known as rigging stays, are structural wires or ropes used to support the mast of a sailboat. They provide lateral stability and prevent excessive vertical movement of the mast. Stays generally run from various points on the mast to different parts of the hull or deck, ensuring the
Self tacking Staysail
Self tacking Staysail. Herb Benavent. May 17, 2016. Staysails are the smaller jib on a cutter. They are mounted to the inner forestay, which is the stay inboard of the headstay and attaches only partway up the mast. When tacking a cutter, you have the jib and staysail to sheet on each tack. This can become quite a chore when short tacking ...
The question of staysails
When under spinnaker or gennaker when you decide to try the staysail an important tip is to take one's time. Check your boat speed for a good few minutes before hoisting. Check your rudder angle if you can. Then hoist and set the staysail, settle down and check the trim, then over another extended period check hull speed and rudder angle.
Sailboat Stays and Shrouds: Essential Rigging Components Explained
Short answer: Sailboat stays and shrouds Sailboat stays and shrouds are essential components of the rigging system that provide support and stability to the mast. Stays run from the masthead to various points on the boat, preventing forward and backward movement, while shrouds connect the mast laterally to maintain side-to-side stability. Together, they help distribute
Mizzen Staysail
Mizzen headsails are attached at three points and provide lots of power when sailing off the wind. The head is attached to the mizzen, the tack is attached to the aft bast of the main mast, and the clew is sheeted through the end of the mizzen boom. The sail is set flying, with no stay supporting its luff. As a result, easing the halyard will ...
How to set up running backstays on your sailboat
Tim Barker. A running backstay is a removable stay that provides aft support to the mast from either the masthead or the point at which an inner forestay is attached. It originated as a response to the material limits of the period. At that time, solid wooden masts, for example, were either too weak or too heavy to be made particularly tall.
The Solent Has Its Own Stay!
The Solent stay is an inner fore-stay that provides an alternative to the Sta-sail stay . Its benefits, similar to that of the Sta-sail Stay, are to provide an inner stay that can fly a smaller/ heavier headsail without having to unfurl, douse and change out the boats everyday headsail. The Solent stay is unique to the Sta-sail in that the stay ...
The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)
The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib. Headsails can be attached in two ways:
Life on a Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know About Living on a
However it never stays mundane for long, one exhilarating sail, a dolphin sighting, a picture perfect anchorage or even surviving an impromptu weather event and the thrill of living on a sailboat quickly returns. A typical workday for us living on a sailboat often starts with the sunrise (or a little bit before if we have a lot on). Ideally, we ...
Sailing the Mediterranean on a 136-Passenger Windjammer
We checked out the 136-passenger Sea Cloud Spirit on a Mediterranean cruise. In this era of gargantuan ships, its elegant clipper design, wooden decks and relatively small size stands out.
Where to kayak, canoe, paddleboard in Delaware. How to kayak safely
For a lengthy excursion, consider checking out the six-hour journey to the take-out at the Slaughter Beach boat ramp on Cedar Creek. Fenwick Island State Park, Fenwick Island
The ins and outs of kayaking around Presque Isle State Park
Presque Isle Boat Company is open on weekends from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., then starting on Memorial Day the shop will be open Monday through Friday 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday to Sunday 6:30 a.m. to ...
Missing swimmer: Missing boater found in Lake Michigan after small boat
On Sunday, two women sailed from Evanston in a 12-foot sailboat, before it capsized at dusk. Around 2 a.m. Monday, one of the women swam about two miles to the shore of Tower Road Beach asking for ...
What is going on inside Trump's mind?
Trump has told the electrocution-or-shark story at least once before, at a rally in Iowa last October. Stormy Daniels, the adult-film actress who received $130,000 in hush money to keep quiet ...
How to stay cool in a heat wave: Our big list for NJ
Here are 10 ways to stay cool in the kitchen With a hat-tip to Cole Porter, when the thermometer goes way up and the temperature is sizzling hot — it's no time to be slaving over the stove.
A first-time guide to Naples, Florida
Naples is the perfect destination for a three-day weekend trip and, in my opinion, works best for anyone looking for a quick solo or romantic getaway to experience the white sandy beaches and great food. Stay longer, and you can make time for day trips to nearby destinations like Fort Myers and Everglades National Park.