types of yacht rigs

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

What's that sail for? Generally, I don't know. So I've come up with a system. I'll explain you everything there is to know about sails and rigs in this article.

What are the different types of sails? Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. Typically, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft bermuda rig (triangular shaped). A jib or genoa is used for the headsail. Most sailors use additional sails for different conditions: the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), gennaker, code zero (for upwind use), and stormsail.

Each sail has its own use. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. But you can't just raise any sail and go for it. It's important to understand when (and how) to use each sail. Your rigging also impacts what sails you can use.

On this page:

Different sail types, the sail plan of a bermuda sloop, mainsail designs, headsail options, specialty sails, complete overview of sail uses, mast configurations and rig types.

This article is part 1 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 2 is all about the different types of rigging. If you want to learn to identify every boat you see quickly, make sure to read it. It really explains the different sail plans and types of rigging clearly.

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

First I'll give you a quick and dirty overview of sails in this list below. Then, I'll walk you through the details of each sail type, and the sail plan, which is the godfather of sail type selection so to speak.

Click here if you just want to scroll through a bunch of pictures .

Here's a list of different models of sails: (Don't worry if you don't yet understand some of the words, I'll explain all of them in a bit)

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Genoa - large jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Spinnaker - large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
• Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
• Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Trysail - smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather
• Storm jib - small jib for heavy weather

I have a big table below that explains the sail types and uses in detail .

I know, I know ... this list is kind of messy, so to understand each sail, let's place them in a system.

The first important distinction between sail types is the placement . The mainsail is placed aft of the mast, which simply means behind. The headsail is in front of the mast.

Generally, we have three sorts of sails on our boat:

• Mainsail: The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and boom
• Headsail: The small sail in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa)
• Specialty sails: Any special utility sails, like spinnakers - large, balloon-shaped sails for downwind use

The second important distinction we need to make is the functionality . Specialty sails (just a name I came up with) each have different functionalities and are used for very specific conditions. So they're not always up, but most sailors carry one or more of these sails.

They are mostly attached in front of the headsail, or used as a headsail replacement.

The specialty sails can be divided into three different categories:

• downwind sails - like a spinnaker
• light air or reacher sails - like a code zero
• storm sails

The parts of any sail

Whether large or small, each sail consists roughly of the same elements. For clarity's sake I've took an image of a sail from the world wide webs and added the different part names to it:

• Head: Top of the sail
• Tack: Lower front corner of the sail
• Foot: Bottom of the sail
• Luff: Forward edge of the sail
• Leech: Back edge of the sail
• Clew: Bottom back corner of the sail

So now we speak the same language, let's dive into the real nitty gritty.

Basic sail shapes

Roughly speaking, there are actually just two sail shapes, so that's easy enough. You get to choose from:

• square rigged sails
• fore-and-aft rigged sails

I would definitely recommend fore-and-aft rigged sails. Square shaped sails are pretty outdated. The fore-and-aft rig offers unbeatable maneuverability, so that's what most sailing yachts use nowadays.

Square sails were used on Viking longships and are good at sailing downwind. They run from side to side. However, they're pretty useless upwind.

A fore-and-aft sail runs from the front of the mast to the stern. Fore-and-aft literally means 'in front and behind'. Boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails are better at sailing upwind and maneuvering in general. This type of sail was first used on Arabic boats.

As a beginner sailor I confuse the type of sail with rigging all the time. But I should cut myself some slack, because the rigging and sails on a boat are very closely related. They are all part of the sail plan .

A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

There are dozens of sails and hundreds of possible configurations (or sail plans).

For example, depending on your mast configuration, you can have extra headsails (which then are called staysails).

The shape of the sails depends on the rigging, so they overlap a bit. To keep it simple I'll first go over the different sail types based on the most common rig. I'll go over the other rig types later in the article.

Bermuda Sloop: the most common rig

Most modern small and mid-sized sailboats have a Bermuda sloop configuration . The sloop is one-masted and has two sails, which are front-and-aft rigged. This type of rig is also called a Marconi Rig. The Bermuda rig uses a triangular sail, with just one side of the sail attached to the mast.

The mainsail is in use most of the time. It can be reefed down, making it smaller depending on the wind conditions. It can be reefed down completely, which is more common in heavy weather. (If you didn't know already: reefing is skipper terms for rolling or folding down a sail.)

In very strong winds (above 30 knots), most sailors only use the headsail or switch to a trysail.

The headsail powers your bow, the mainsail powers your stern (rear). By having two sails, you can steer by using only your sails (in theory - it requires experience). In any case, two sails gives you better handling than one, but is still easy to operate.

Let's get to the actual sails. The mainsail is attached behind the mast and to the boom, running to the stern. There are multiple designs, but they actually don't differ that much. So the following list is a bit boring. Feel free to skip it or quickly glance over it.

• Square Top racing mainsail - has a high performance profile thanks to the square top, optional reef points
• Racing mainsail - made for speed, optional reef points
• Cruising mainsail - low-maintenance, easy to use, made to last. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Full-Batten Cruising mainsail - cruising mainsail with better shape control. Eliminates flogging. Full-length battens means the sail is reinforced over the entire length. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• High Roach mainsail - crossover between square top racing and cruising mainsail, used mostly on cats and multihulls. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Mast Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the mast - very convenient but less control; of sail shape. Have no reef points
• Boom Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the boom. Have no reef points.

The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib .

Headsails can be attached in two ways:

• using roller furlings - the sail rolls around the headstay
• hank on - fixed attachment

Types of jibs:

Typically a sloop carries a regular jib as its headsail. It can also use a genoa.

• A jib is a triangular staysail set in front of the mast. It's the same size as the fore-triangle.
• A genoa is a large jib that overlaps the mainsail.

What's the purpose of a jib sail? A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig.

The size of the jib is generally indicated by a number - J1, 2, 3, and so on. The number tells us the attachment point. The order of attachment points may differ per sailmaker, so sometimes J1 is the largest jib (on the longest stay) and sometimes it's the smallest (on the shortest stay). Typically the J1 jib is the largest - and the J3 jib the smallest.

Most jibs are roller furling jibs: this means they are attached to a stay and can be reefed down single-handedly. If you have a roller furling you can reef down the jib to all three positions and don't need to carry different sizes.

Originally called the 'overlapping jib', the leech of the genoa extends aft of the mast. This increases speed in light and moderate winds. A genoa is larger than the total size of the fore-triangle. How large exactly is indicated by a percentage.

• A number 1 genoa is typically 155% (it used to be 180%)
• A number 2 genoa is typically 125-140%

Genoas are typically made from 1.5US/oz polyester spinnaker cloth, or very light laminate.

This is where it gets pretty interesting. You can use all kinds of sails to increase speed, handling, and performance for different weather conditions.

Some rules of thumb:

• Large sails are typically good for downwind use, small sails are good for upwind use.
• Large sails are good for weak winds (light air), small sails are good for strong winds (storms).

Downwind sails

Thanks to the front-and-aft rig sailboats are easier to maneuver, but they catch less wind as well. Downwind sails are used to offset this by using a large sail surface, pulling a sailboat downwind. They can be hanked on when needed and are typically balloon shaped.

Here are the most common downwind sails:

• Big gennaker
• Small gennaker

A free-flying sail that fills up with air, giving it a balloon shape. Spinnakers are generally colorful, which is why they look like kites. This downwind sail has the largest sail area, and it's capable of moving a boat with very light wind. They are amazing to use on trade wind routes, where they can help you make quick progress.

Spinnakers require special rigging. You need a special pole and track on your mast. You attach the sail at three points: in the mast head using a halyard, on a pole, and on a sheet.

The spinnaker is symmetrical, meaning the luff is as long as its leech. It's designed for broad reaching.

Gennaker or cruising spinnaker

The Gennaker is a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker. It has less downwind performance than the spinnaker. It is a bit smaller, making it slower, but also easier to handle - while it remains very capable. The cruising spinnaker is designed for broad reaching.

The gennaker is a smaller, asymmetric spinnaker that's doesn't require a pole or track on the mast. Like the spinnaker, and unlike the genoa, the gennaker is set flying. Asymmetric means its luff is longer than its leech.

You can get big and small gennakers (roughly 75% and 50% the size of a true spinnaker).

Also called ...

• the cruising spinnaker
• cruising chute
• pole-less spinnaker
• SpinDrifter

... it's all the same sail.

Light air sails

There's a bit of overlap between the downwind sails and light air sails. Downwind sails can be used as light air sails, but not all light air sails can be used downwind.

Here are the most common light air sails:

• Spinnaker and gennaker

Drifter reacher

Code zero reacher.

A drifter (also called a reacher) is a lightweight, larger genoa for use in light winds. It's roughly 150-170% the size of a genoa. It's made from very lightweight laminated spinnaker fabric (1.5US/oz).

Thanks to the extra sail area the sail offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It's generally made from lightweight nylon. Thanks to it's genoa characteristics the sail is easier to use than a cruising spinnaker.

The code zero reacher is officially a type of spinnaker, but it looks a lot like a large genoa. And that's exactly what it is: a hybrid cross between the genoa and the asymmetrical spinnaker (gennaker). The code zero however is designed for close reaching, making it much flatter than the spinnaker. It's about twice the size of a non-overlapping jib.

A windseeker is a small, free-flying staysail for super light air. It's tall and thin. It's freestanding, so it's not attached to the headstay. The tack attaches to a deck pad-eye. Use your spinnakers' halyard to raise it and tension the luff.

It's made from nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth (0.75 to 1.5US/oz).

It's designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the main sail, ensuring a more even, smooth flow of air.

Stormsails are stronger than regular sails, and are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots. You carry them to spare the mainsail. Sails

A storm jib is a small triangular staysail for use in heavy weather. If you participate in offshore racing you need a mandatory orange storm jib. It's part of ISAF's requirements.

A trysail is a storm replacement for the mainsail. It's small, triangular, and it uses a permanently attached pennant. This allows it to be set above the gooseneck. It's recommended to have a separate track on your mast for it - you don't want to fiddle around when you actually really need it to be raised ... now.

Why Use Different Sails At All?

You could just get the largest furling genoa and use it on all positions. So why would you actually use different types of sails?

The main answer to that is efficiency . Some situations require other characteristics.

Having a deeply reefed genoa isn't as efficient as having a small J3. The reef creates too much draft in the sail, which increases heeling. A reefed down mainsail in strong winds also increases heeling. So having dedicated (storm) sails is probably a good thing, especially if you're planning more demanding passages or crossings.

But it's not just strong winds, but also light winds that can cause problems. Heavy sails will just flap around like laundry in very light air. So you need more lightweight fabrics to get you moving.

What Are Sails Made Of?

The most used materials for sails nowadays are:

• Dacron - woven polyester
• woven nylon
• laminated fabrics - increasingly popular

Sails used to be made of linen. As you can imagine, this is terrible material on open seas. Sails were rotting due to UV and saltwater. In the 19th century linen was replaced by cotton.

It was only in the 20th century that sails were made from synthetic fibers, which were much stronger and durable. Up until the 1980s most sails were made from Dacron. Nowadays, laminates using yellow aramids, Black Technora, carbon fiber and Spectra yarns are more and more used.

Laminates are as strong as Dacron, but a lot lighter - which matters with sails weighing up to 100 kg (220 pounds).

By the way: we think that Viking sails were made from wool and leather, which is quite impressive if you ask me.

In this section of the article I give you a quick and dirty summary of different sail plans or rig types which will help you to identify boats quickly. But if you want to really understand it clearly, I really recommend you read part 2 of this series, which is all about different rig types.

You can't simply count the number of masts to identify rig type But you can identify any rig type if you know what to look for. We've created an entire system for recognizing rig types. Let us walk you through it. Read all about sail rig types

As I've said earlier, there are two major rig types: square rigged and fore-and-aft. We can divide the fore-and-aft rigs into three groups:

• Bermuda rig (we have talked about this one the whole time) - has a three-sided mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided mainsail on a long yard

There are roughly four types of boats:

• one masted boats - sloop, cutter
• two masted boats - ketch, schooner, brig
• three masted - barque
• fully rigged or ship rigged - tall ship

Everything with four masts is called a (tall) ship. I think it's outside the scope of this article, but I have written a comprehensive guide to rigging. I'll leave the three and four-masted rigs for now. If you want to know more, I encourage you to read part 2 of this series.

One-masted rigs

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

The 3 most common one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

1. Gaff Cat

2. Gaff Sloop

Two-masted rigs

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the main mast. Behind (aft of) the main mast is called a mizzen mast . In front of the main mast is called a foremast .

The 5 most common two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Main mast carries small lateen rigged sail.

4. Schooner

5. Brigantine

This article is part 1 of a series about sails and rig types If you want to read on and learn to identify any sail plans and rig type, we've found a series of questions that will help you do that quickly. Read all about recognizing rig types

Related Questions

What is the difference between a gennaker & spinnaker? Typically, a gennaker is smaller than a spinnaker. Unlike a spinnaker, a gennaker isn't symmetric. It's asymmetric like a genoa. It is however rigged like a spinnaker; it's not attached to the forestay (like a jib or a genoa). It's a downwind sail, and a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker (hence the name).

What is a Yankee sail? A Yankee sail is a jib with a high-cut clew of about 3' above the boom. A higher-clewed jib is good for reaching and is better in high waves, preventing the waves crash into the jibs foot. Yankee jibs are mostly used on traditional sailboats.

How much does a sail weigh? Sails weigh anywhere between 4.5-155 lbs (2-70 kg). The reason is that weight goes up exponentially with size. Small boats carry smaller sails (100 sq. ft.) made from thinner cloth (3.5 oz). Large racing yachts can carry sails of up to 400 sq. ft., made from heavy fabric (14 oz), totaling at 155 lbs (70 kg).

What's the difference between a headsail and a staysail? The headsail is the most forward of the staysails. A boat can only have one headsail, but it can have multiple staysails. Every staysail is attached to a forward running stay. However, not every staysail is located at the bow. A stay can run from the mizzen mast to the main mast as well.

What is a mizzenmast? A mizzenmast is the mast aft of the main mast (behind; at the stern) in a two or three-masted sailing rig. The mizzenmast is shorter than the main mast. It may carry a mainsail, for example with a ketch or lugger. It sometimes doesn't carry a mainsail, for example with a yawl, allowing it to be much shorter.

Special thanks to the following people for letting me use their quality photos: Bill Abbott - True Spinnaker with pole - CC BY-SA 2.0 lotsemann - Volvo Ocean Race Alvimedica and the Code Zero versus SCA and the J1 - CC BY-SA 2.0 Lisa Bat - US Naval Academy Trysail and Storm Jib dry fit - CC BY-SA 2.0 Mike Powell - White gaff cat - CC BY-SA 2.0 Anne Burgess - Lugger The Reaper at Scottish Traditional Boat Festival

Hi, I stumbled upon your page and couldn’t help but notice some mistakes in your description of spinnakers and gennakers. First of all, in the main photo on top of this page the small yacht is sailing a spinnaker, not a gennaker. If you look closely you can see the spinnaker pole standing on the mast, visible between the main and headsail. Further down, the discription of the picture with the two German dinghies is incorrect. They are sailing spinnakers, on a spinnaker pole. In the farthest boat, you can see a small piece of the pole. If needed I can give you the details on the difference between gennakers and spinnakers correctly?

Hi Shawn, I am living in Utrecht I have an old gulf 32 and I am sailing in merkmeer I find your articles very helpful Thanks

Thank you for helping me under stand all the sails there names and what there functions were and how to use them. I am planning to build a trimaran 30’ what would be the best sails to have I plan to be coastal sailing with it. Thank you

Hey Comrade!

Well done with your master piece blogging. Just a small feedback. “The jib gives control over the bow of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship.” Can you please first tell the different part of a sail boat earlier and then talk about bow and stern later in the paragraph. A reader has no clue on the newly introduced terms. It helps to keep laser focused and not forget main concepts.

Shawn, I am currently reading How to sail around the World” by Hal Roth. Yes, I want to sail around the world. His book is truly grounded in real world experience but like a lot of very knowledgable people discussing their area of expertise, Hal uses a lot of terms that I probably should have known but didn’t, until now. I am now off to read your second article. Thank You for this very enlightening article on Sail types and their uses.

Shawn Buckles

HI CVB, that’s a cool plan. Thanks, I really love to hear that. I’m happy that it was helpful to you and I hope you are of to a great start for your new adventure!

Hi GOWTHAM, thanks for the tip, I sometimes forget I haven’t specified the new term. I’ve added it to the article.

Nice article and video; however, you’re mixing up the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A started out with a question. What distinguishes a brig from a schooner? Which in turn led to follow-up questions: I know there are Bermuda rigs and Latin rig, are there more? Which in turn led to further questions, and further, and further… This site answers them all. Wonderful work. Thank you.

Great post and video! One thing was I was surprised how little you mentioned the Ketch here and not at all in the video or chart, and your sample image is a large ship with many sails. Some may think Ketch’s are uncommon, old fashioned or only for large boats. Actually Ketch’s are quite common for cruisers and live-aboards, especially since they often result in a center cockpit layout which makes for a very nice aft stateroom inside. These are almost exclusively the boats we are looking at, so I was surprised you glossed over them.

Love the article and am finding it quite informative.

While I know it may seem obvious to 99% of your readers, I wish you had defined the terms “upwind” and “downwind.” I’m in the 1% that isn’t sure which one means “with the wind” (or in the direction the wind is blowing) and which one means “against the wind” (or opposite to the way the wind is blowing.)

paul adriaan kleimeer

like in all fields of syntax and terminology the terms are colouual meaning local and then spead as the technology spread so an history lesson gives a floral bouque its colour and in the case of notical terms span culture and history adds an detail that bring reverence to the study simply more memorable.

Hi, I have a small yacht sail which was left in my lock-up over 30 years ago I basically know nothing about sails and wondered if you could spread any light as to the make and use of said sail. Someone said it was probably originally from a Wayfayer wooden yacht but wasn’t sure. Any info would be must appreciated and indeed if would be of any use to your followers? I can provide pics but don’t see how to include them at present

kind regards

Leave a comment

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How Much Sailboats Cost On Average (380+ Prices Compared)

Sail Rigs And Types - The Only Guide You Need

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A well-designed sailboat is a thing of pure beauty. Whether you're a proud owner of one, a guest on one, or a shore-side admirer, you'll fall in love with the gliding sails, the excitement of a race, and the eco-friendly nature of these sophisticated yet magnificent vessels. With good sails, great design, and regular maintenance, sails and rigs are an important part of a sailboat.

If you’re thinking about going sailing, one of the first things you have to understand is the variety of modern sail plans. Unlike old sailboats, modern sailboats don't need huge, overlapping headsails and multiple masts just to get moving. In the past, when sailboats were heavy, keels were long, the only way to get the boat moving was with a massive relative sail area. You needed as much square footage as you could just to get your sailboat moving. But with the invention of fiberglass hulls, aluminum or composite masts, high-tensile but low diameter lines and stats, and more efficient sails, sailboats no longer need to plan for such large sail plans.. Still, there are various rig styles, from the common sloop, to the comfortable cat-rig, to the dual masted ketch and schooner, there are various sail types and rigs to choose from. The most important thing is to know the different types of sails and rigs and how they can make your sailing even more enjoyable.

There are different types of sails and rigs. Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. The mainsail is generally fore-and-aft rigged and is triangular shaped. Various conditions and courses require adjustments to the sails on the boats, and, other than the mainsail, most boats can switch out their secondary sail depending on various conditions.. Do you want to sail upwind or go downwind? You cannot hoist just any sail and use it. It's, therefore, of great importance to understand how and when to use each sail type.

In this in-depth article, we'll look at various sail types and rigs, and how to use them to make your sailing more enjoyable.

Table of contents

Different Sail Types

It is perhaps worth noting that a sailboat is only as good as its sails. The very heart of sailing comes in capturing the wind using artfully trimmed sails and turning that into motion. . Ask any good sailor and he'll tell you that knowing how and when to trim the sails efficiently will not only improve the overall performance of your boat but will elevate your sailing experience. In short, sails are the driving force of sailboats.

As such, it's only natural that you should know the different types of sails and how they work. Let's first highlight different sail types before going into the details.

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Spinnaker - huge balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Genoa - huge jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Gennaker - a combination of a spinnaker and genoa
• Code zero - reaching genoa for light air 
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Drifter - versatile light air genoa made from particularly lightweight cloth
• Storm jib - a smaller jib meant for stormy conditions
• Trysail - This is a smaller front-and-aft sail for heavy weather

The mainsail is the principal sail on a boat. It's generally set aft of the mainmast. Working together with the jib, the mainsail is designed to create the lift that drives the sailboat windward. That being said, the mainsail is a very powerful component that must always be kept under control.

As the largest sail, and the geometric center of effort on the boat, the mainsail is tasked with capturing the bulk of the wind that's required to propel the sailboat. The foot, the term for the bottom of any sail, secures to the boom, which allows you to trim the sail to your heading. The luff, the leading edge of the sail, is attached to the mast. An idealized mainsail would be able to swing through trim range of 180°, the full semi-circle aft of the mast, though in reality, most larger boats don’t support this full range of motion, as a fully eased sail can occasionally be unstable in heavy breeze.

. As fully controlling the shape of the mainsail is crucial to sailing performance, there are many different basic mainsail configurations. For instance, you can get a full-batten mainsail, a regular mainsail with short battens, or a two-plus-two mainsail with two full-length battens. Hyper-high performance boats have even begun experimenting with winged sails which are essentially trimmable airplane wings! Moreover, there are numerous sail controls that change the shape by pulling at different points on the sail, boom, or mast. Reefing, for instance, allows you to shorten the sail vertically, reducing the amount of sail area when the boat is overpowered.

Features of a Mainsail

Several features will affect how a particular sail works and performs. Some features will, of course, affect the cost of the sail while others may affect its longevity. All in all, it's essential to decide the type of mainsail that's right for you and your sailing application.

Sail Battens, the Roach, and the Leech

The most difficult part of the sail to control, but also the most important, are the areas we refer to as the leech and the roach. The roach is the part of the sail that extends backwards past the shortest line between the clew, at the end of the boom, and the top of the mast. It makes up roughly the back third of the sail. The leech is the trailing edge of the sail, the backmost curve of the roach. Together, these two components control the flow of the air off the back of the sail, which greatly affects the overall sail performance. If the air stalls off the backside of the sail, you will find a great loss in performance. Many sail controls, including the boom vang, backstay, main halyard, and even the cunningham, to name a few, focus on keeping this curve perfect. 

As for parts of the sail itself, battens control the overall horizontal shape of the sail. Battens are typically made from fiberglass or wood and are built into batten pockets. They're meant to offer support and tension to maintain the sail shape Depending on the sail technology you want to use, you may find that full battens, which extend from luff to leech, or short battens, just on the trailing edge, are the way to go. Fully battened sails tend to be more expensive, but also higher performance.

Fully Battened Mainsails

They're generally popular on racing multihulls as they give you a nice solid sail shape which is crucial at high speeds. In cruising sailboats , fully battened mainsails have a few benefits such as:

• They prevent the mainsail from ragging. This extends the life of the sail, and makes maneuvers and trimming easier for the crew.
• It provides shape and lift in light-air conditions where short-battened mainsails would collapse.

On the other hand, fully-battened mainsails are often heavier, made out of thicker material, and can chafe against the standing rigging with more force when sailing off the wind.

Short Battens

On the other hand, you can choose a mainsail design that relies mostly on short battens, towards the leech of the sail. This tends to work for lighter cloth sails, as the breeze, the headsail, and the rigging help to shape the sail simply by the tension of the rig and the flow of the wind. The battens on the leech help to preserve the shape of the sail in the crucial area where the air is flowing off the back of the sail, keeping you from stalling out the entire rig.

The only potential downside is that these short battens deal with a little bit of chafe and tension in their pockets, and the sail cloth around these areas ought to be reinforced. If your sails do not have sufficient reinforcement here, or you run into any issues related to batten chafe, a good sail maker should be able to help you extend the life of your sails for much less than the price of a new set.

How to Hoist the Mainsail

Here's how to hoist the mainsail, assuming that it relies on a slab reefing system and lazy jacks and doesn't have an in-mast or in-boom furling system.

• ‍Maintain enough speed for steeragewhile heading up into the wind
• Slacken the mainsheet, boom vang, and cunningham
• Make sure that the lazy jacks do not catch the ends on the battens by pulling the lazy jacks forward.
• Ensure that the reefing runs are free to run and the proper reefs are set if necessary.
• Raise the halyard as far as you can depending on pre-set reefs.
• Tension the halyard to a point where a crease begins to form along the front edge
• Re-set the lazy jacks
• Trim the mainsail properly while heading off to your desired course

So what's Right for You?

Your mainsail will depend on how you like sailing your boat and what you expect in terms of convenience and performance. That being said, first consult the options that the boatbuilder or sailmakers suggest for your rig. When choosing among the various options, consider what you want from the sail, how you like to sail, and how much you're willing to spend on the mainsail.

The headsail is principally the front sail in a fore-and-aft rig. They're commonly triangular and are attached to or serve as the boat’s forestay. They include a jib and a genoa. 

A jib is a triangular sail that is set ahead of the foremost sail. For large boats, the roto-furling jib has become a common and convenient way to rig and store the jib. Often working in shifts with spinnakers, jibs are the main type of headsails on modern sailboats. Jibs take advantage of Bournoulli’s Principle to break the incoming breeze for the mainsail, greatly increasing the speed and point of any boat. By breaking the incoming wind and channeling it through what we call the ‘slot,’ the horizontal gap between the leech of the jib and the luff of the mainsail, the jib drastically increases the efficiency of your mainsail. It additionally balances the helm on your rudder by pulling the bow down, as the mainsail tends to pull the stern down. .

The main aim of the jib is to increase the sail area for a given mast size. It improves the aerodynamics of the mainsails so that your sailboat can catch more wind and thereby sail faster, especially in light air

Using Jibs on Modern Sailboats

In the modern contexts, jib’s mainly serve  increase the performance and overall stability of the mainsail. The jib can also reduce the turbulence of the mainsail on the leeward side.

On Traditional Vessels

Traditional vessels such as schooners have about three jibs. The topmast carried a jib topsail, the main foresail is called the jib, while the innermost jib is known as the staysail. The first two were employed almost exclusively by clipper ships.

How to Rig the Jibs

There are three basic ways to rig the jib.

Track Sheets - A relatively modern approach to the self-tacking jib, this entails placing all the trimming hardware on a sliding track forward of the mast. This means that on each tack, the hardware slides from one side of the boat to the other. This alleviates the need to switch sheets and preserves the trim angle on both sides, though it can be finnicky and introduce friction.

Sheet up the Mast - This is a very popular approach and for a good reason. Hoist the jib sheet up the mast high enough to ensure that there's the right tension through the tack. Whether internally or externally, the sheet returnsto the deck and then back to the cockpit just like the rest of the mast baselines. The fact the hardware doesn't move through the tacks is essential in reducing friction.

Sheet Forward - This method revolves around ensuring that the jib sheet stays under constant pressure so that it does not move through the blocks in the tacks. This is possible if the through-deck block is extremely close to the jib tack. Your only challenge will only be to return the sheet to the cockpit. This is, however, quite challenging and can cause significant friction.

Dual Sheeting - The traditional method, especially on smaller dinghies, though it is not self-tacking. This requires a two ended or two separate sheet system, where one sheet runs to a block on starboard, and the other to port. Whenever you tack or gybe, this means you have to switch which sheet is active and which is slack, which is ok for well crewed boats, but a potential issue on under-crewed boats.

Another important headsail, a genoa is essentially a large jib that usually overlaps the mainsail or extends past the mast, especially when viewed from the other side. In the past, a genoa was known as the overlapping jib and is technically used on twin-mast boats and single-mast sloops such as ketches and yawls. A genoa has a large surface area, which is integral in increasing the speed of the vessel both in moderate and light winds.

Genoas are generally characterized by the percentage they cover. In most cases, sail racing classes stipulate the limit of a genoa size. In other words, genoas are usually classified by coverage.

Top-quality genoa trim is of great importance, especially if the wind is forward of the beam. This is because the wind will first pass over the genoa before the mainsail. As such, a wrongly sheeted genoa can erroneously direct the wind over the mainsail,spelling doom to your sailing escapades. While you can perfectly adjust the shape of a genoa using the mast rake, halyard tension, sheet tension, genoa car positioning, and backstay tension, furling and unfurling a genoa can be very challenging, especially in higher winds.

That being said, here are the crucial steps to always keep in mind.

• Unload and ease the loaded genoa sheet by going to a broad reach
• Do not use the winch; just pull on the furling line
• Keep a very small amount of pressure or tension on the loaded genoa sheet
• Secure the furling line and tighten the genoa sheets
• Get on the proper point of sail
• Have the crew help you and release the lazy genoa sheets
• Maintain a small tension while easing out the furling line
• Pull-on a loaded genoa sheet
• Close or cleat off the rope clutch when the genoa is unfurled
• Trim the genoa

To this end, it's important to note that genoas are popular in some racing classes. This is because they only categorize genoas based on the fore-triangle area covered, which essentially allows a genoa to significantly increase the actual sail area. On the contrary, keep in mind that tacking a genoa is quite a bit harder than a jib, as the overlapping area can get tangled with the mast and shrouds. It's, therefore, important to make sure that the genoa is carefully tended, particularly when tacking.

Downwind Sails

Modern sailboats are a lot easier to maneuver thanks to the fore-and-aft rig. Unfortunately, when sailing downwind they catch less wind, and downwind sails are a great way of reducing this problem. They include the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A spinnaker will, without a doubt, increase your sailing enjoyment. But why are they often buried in the cabin of cruising boats? Well, the first few attempts to rig and set a spinnaker can be difficult without enough help and guidance. Provided a solid background, however, spinnakers are quite straightforward and easy to use and handle with teamwork and enough practice. More importantly, spinnakers can bring a light wind passage to life and can save your engine.

Spinnakers are purposely designed for sailing off the wind; they fill with wind and balloon out in front of your sailboat. Structured with a lightweight fabric such as nylon, the spinnaker is also known as a kite or chute, as they look like parachutes both in structure and appearance. 

A perfectly designed spinnaker should have taut leading edges when filled. This mitigates the risk of lifting and collapsing. A spinnaker should have a smooth curve when filled and devoid of depressions and bubbles that might be caused by the inconsistent stretching of the fabric. The idea here is that anything other than a smooth curve may reduce the lift and thereby reduce performance.

Types of Spinnakers

There are two main types of spinnakers: symmetric spinnakers and asymmetric spinnakers.

Asymmetric Spinnakers

Flown from a spinnaker pole or bowsprit fitted to the bow of the boat, asymmetric spinnakers resemble large jibs and have been around since the 19th century. The concept of asymmetric spinnaker revolves around attaching the tack of the spinnaker at the bow and pulling it around during a gybe.

Asymmetric spinnakers have two sheets just like a jib., These sheets are attached at the clew and never interact directly with the spinnaker pole. This is because the other corner of the spinnaker is fixed to the bowsprit. The asymmetric spinnaker works when you pull in one sheet while releasing the other. This makes it a lot easier to gybe but is less suited to sailing directly downwind. There is the loophole of having the asymmetric spinnaker gybed to the side opposite of the boom, so that the boat is sailing ‘wing-on-wing,’ though this is a more advanced maneuver, generally reserved for certain conditions and tactical racing situations.

On the contrary, the asymmetric spinnaker is perfect for fast planing dinghies. This is because such vessels have speeds that generate apparent wind forward. Because asymmetrics, by nature, prefer to sail shallower downwind angles, this apparent wind at high speeds makes the boat think that it is sailing higher than it really is, allowing you to drive a little lower off the breeze than normal. . In essence, the asymmetric spinnaker is vital if you're looking for easy handling.

Symmetric Spinnakers

Symmetric spinnakers are a classic sail type that has been used for centuries for controlling boats by lines known as a guy and a sheet. The guy, which is a windward line, is attached to the tack of the sail and stabilized by a spinnaker pole. The sheet, which is the leeward line, is attached to the clew of the spinnaker and is essential in controlling the shape of the spinnaker sail.

When set correctly, the leading edges of the symmetric spinnaker should be almost parallel to the wind. This is to ensure that the airflow over the leading edge remains attached. Generally, the spinnaker pole should be at the right angles to the apparent wind and requires a lot of care when packing.

The main disadvantage of this rig is the need to gybe the spinnaker pole whenever you gybe the boat. This is a complicated maneuver, and is one of the most common places for spinnakers to rip or get twisted. If, however, you can master this maneuver, you can sail at almost any angle downwind!

How to Use Spinnaker Effectively

If you decide to include the spinnakers to your sailboat, the sailmaker will want to know the type of boat you have, what kind of sailing you do, and where you sail. As such, the spinnaker that you end up with should be an excellent and all-round sail and should perform effectively off the breeze

The type of boat and where you'll be sailing will hugely influence the weight of your spinnaker cloth. In most cases, cruising spinnakers should be very light, so if you've decided to buy a spinnaker, make sure that it's designed per the type of your sailboat and where you will be sailing. Again, you can choose to go for something lighter and easier to set if you'll be sailing alone or with kids who are too young to help.

Setting up Spinnakers

One of the main reasons why sailors distrust spinnakers is because they don't know how to set them up. That being said, a perfectly working spinnaker starts with how you set it up and this revolves around how you carefully pack it and properly hook it up. You can do this by running the luff tapes and ensuring that the sails are not twisted when packed into the bag. If you are using large spinnakers, the best thing to do is make sure that they're set in stops to prevent the spinnakers from filling up with air before you even hoist them fully.

But even with that, you cannot fully set the spinnaker while sailing upwind. Make sure to bear away and have your pole ready to go as you turn downwind. You should then bear away to a reach before hoisting. Just don't hoist the spinnakers from the bow as this can move the weight of the crew and equipment forward.

Used when sailing downwind, a gennaker is asymmetric sail somewhere between a genoa and a spinnaker. It sets itself apart because it  gennaker is a free-flying asymmetric spinnaker but it is tacked to the bowsprit like the jib.

Let's put it into perspective. Even though the genoa is a great sail for racing and cruising, sailors realized that it was too small to be used in a race or for downwind sail and this is the main reason why the spinnaker was invented. While the spinnakers are large sails that can be used for downwind sail, they are quite difficult to handle especially if you're sailing shorthanded. As such, this is how a gennaker came to be: it gives you the best of both worlds.

Gennakers are stable and easy to fly and will add to your enjoyment and downwind performance.

The Shape of a Gennaker

As we've just noted, the gennaker is asymmetrical. It doesn't attach to the forestay like the genoa but has a permanent fitting from the mast to bow. It is rigged exactly like a spinnaker but its tack is fastened to the bowsprit. This is fundamentally an essential sail if you're looking for something to bridge the gap between a genoa and a spinnaker.

Setting a Gennaker

When cruising, the gennaker is set with the tack line from the bow, a halyard, and a sheet that's led to the aft quarter. Attach the tack to a furling unit and attach it to a fitting on the hull near the very front of the sailboat. You can then attach the halyard that will help in pulling it up to the top of the mast before attaching it to the clew. The halyard can then run back to the winches to make the controlling of the sail shape easier, just like when using the genoa sail.

In essence, a gennaker is a superb sail that will give you the maximum versatility of achieving the best of both a genoa and a spinnaker, especially when sailing downwind. This is particularly of great importance if you're cruising by autopilot or at night.

Light Air Sails

Even though downwind sails can be used as light air sails, not all light air sails can be used for downwind sailing. In other words, there's a level of difference between downwind sails and light air sails. Light air sails include code zero, windseeker, and drifter reacher.

A cross between an asymmetrical spinnaker and a genoa, a code zero is a highly modern sail type that's generally used when sailing close to the wind in light air. Although the initial idea of code zero was to make a larger genoa, it settled on a narrow and flat spinnaker while upholding the shape of a genoa.

Modern boats come with code zero sails that can be used as soon as the sailboat bears off close-hauled even a little bit. It has a nearly straight luff and is designed to be very flat for close reaching. This sail is designed to give your boat extra performance in light winds, especially in boats that do not have overlapping genoas. It also mitigates the problem of loss of power when you are reaching with a non-overlapping headsail. Really, it is closer to a light air jib that sacrifices a little angle for speed.

In many conditions, a code zero sail can go as high as a sailboat with just a jib. By hoisting a code zero, you'll initially have to foot off about 15 degrees to fill it and get the power that you require to heel and move the boat. The boat will not only speed up but will also allow you to put the bow up while also doing the same course as before you set the zero. In essence, code zero can be an efficient way of giving your boat about 30% more speed and this is exactly why it's a vital inventory item in racing sailboats.

When it comes to furling code zero, the best way to do it is through a top-down furling system as this will ensure that you never get a twist in the system.

Generally used when a full size and heavier sail doesn't stay stable or pressurized, a windseeker is a very light sail that's designed for drifting conditions. This is exactly why they're designed with a forgiving cloth to allow them to handle these challenging conditions.

The windseeker should be tacked at the headstay with two sheets on the clew. To help this sail fill in the doldrums, you can heel the boat to whatever the apparent leeward side is and let gravity help you maintain a good sail shape while reaching.The ideal angle of a windseeker should be about 60 degrees.

Though only used in very specific conditions, the windseeker is so good at this one job that it is worth the investment if you plan on a long cruise. Still, you can substitute most off the breeze sails for this in a pinch, with slightly less performance gain, likely with more sacrifices in angle to the breeze. 

Drifter Reacher

Many cruising sailors often get intimidated by the idea of setting and trimming a drifter if it's attached to the rig at only three corners or if it's free-flying. But whether or not a drifter is appropriate for your boat will hugely depend on your boat's rig, as well as other specific details such as your crew's ability to furl and unfurl the drifter and, of course, your intended cruising grounds.

But even with that, the drifter remains a time-honored sail that's handy and very versatile. Unlike other light air sails, the drifter perfectly carries on all points of sails as it allows the boat to sail close-hauled and to tack. It is also very easy to control when it's set and struck. In simpler terms, a drifter is principally a genoa that's built of lightweight fabric such as nylon. Regardless of the material, the drifter is a superb sail if you want to sail off a lee shore without using the genoa.

Generally stronger than other regular sails, stormsails are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots and are great when sailing in stormy conditions. They include a storm jib and a trysail.

If you sail long and far enough, chances are you have or will soon be caught in stormy conditions. Under such conditions, storm jibs can be your insurance and you'll be better off if you have a storm jib that has the following features:

• Robustly constructed using heavyweight sailcloth
• Sized suitably for the boat
• Highly visible even in grey and white seas

That's not all; you should never go out there without a storm jib as this, together with the trysail, is the only sails that will be capable of weathering some of nature's most testing situations.

Storm jibs typically have high clews to give you the flexibility of sheet location. You can raise the sail with a spare halyard until its lead position is closed-hauled in the right position. In essence, storm jib is your insurance policy when out there sailing: you should always have it but always hope that you never have to use it.

Also known as a spencer, a trysail is a small, bright orange, veritably bullet-proof, and triangular sail that's designed to save the boat's mainsail from winds over 45 knots and works in the same way as a storm jib. It is designed to enable you to make progress to windward even in strong and stormy winds.

Trysails generally use the same mast track as the mainsail but you have to introduce the slides into the gate from the head of the trysail.

There are two main types of rigs: the fore-and-aft rig and the square rigg.

Fore-and-aft Rig

This is a sailing rig that chiefly has the sails set along the lines of the keel and not perpendicular to it. It can be divided into three categories: Bermuda rig, Gaff rig, and Lateen rig.

Bermuda Rig - Also known as a Marconi rig, this is the typical configuration of most modern sailboats. It has been used since the 17th century and remains one of the most efficient types of rigs. The rig revolves around setting a triangular sail aft of the mast with the head raised to the top of the mast. The luff should run down the mast and be attached to the entire length.

Gaff Rig - This is the most popular fore-and-aft rig on vessels such as the schooner and barquentine. It revolves around having the sail four-cornered and controlled at its peak. In other words, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff.

Lateen Rig - This is a triangular fore-and-aft rig whereby a triangular sail is configured on a long yard that's mounted at a given angle of the mast while running in a fore-and-aft direction. Lateen rig is commonly used in the Indian Ocean and the Mediterranean.

Square Rigged

This is a rig whereby the mainsails are arranged in a horizontal spar so that they're square or vertical to the mast and the keel of the boat. The square rig is highly efficient when sailing downwind and was once very popular with ocean-going sailboats.

Unquestionably, sailing is always pleasurable. Imagine turning off the engine of your boat, hoisting the sails, and filling them with air! This is, without a doubt, a priceless moment that will make your boat keel and jump forward!

But being propelled by the noiseless motion of the wind and against the mighty currents and pounding waves of the seas require that you know various sail types and how to use them not just in propelling your boat but also in ensuring that you enjoy sailing and stay safe. Sails are a gorgeous way of getting forward. They remain the main fascination of sailboats and sea cruising. If anything, sails and boats are inseparable and are your true friends when out there on the water. As such, getting to know different types of sails and how to use them properly is of great importance.

All in all, let's wish you calm seas, fine winds, and a sturdy mast!

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Sail Rigs: A Comprehensive Guide to Different Types

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 21, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

== Short answer: Sail rigs ==

Sail rigs refer to the various configurations and types of sails used on sailing vessels. These include fore-and-aft rigs, such as the sloop and schooner, as well as square rigs like the brig and full-rigged ship. Each rig type offers distinct advantages depending on factors like wind direction and vessel size.

The Basics: An Introduction to Sail Rigs

Are you ready to embark on a sea-faring adventure but find yourself bewildered by the jargon and terminology surrounding sail rigs? fret not, for we are here to provide you with a detailed introduction to sail rigs, unraveling their mysteries in a professional yet witty manner.

Picture this: you’re standing at the edge of a dock, gazing out at the vast expanse of water before you. The salty breeze whispers sweet promises of freedom as sailboats gently sway in sync with the rhythm of the waves. With eager anticipation, you step aboard one such vessel , ready to navigate through uncharted waters. But before you can set sail and conquer the seas, it’s important to understand the very essence of sailing – sail rigs.

Sail rigs refer to the various configurations and arrangements of sails on a boat that allow it to harness the power of wind and propel forward majestically. Each rig has its own unique characteristics and purposes, catering to different types of sailing experiences.

Let’s start with one of the most classic rig configurations – the sloop rig. Just like James Bond’s signature tuxedo, this rig never goes out of style. It consists of a single mast positioned towards the front (fore) of the boat and is supported by stays or shrouds for stability. Attached to this mast is a single triangular mainsail behind which proudly flutters in defiance against gravity. Atop this majestic mainsail sits a smaller triangular foresail called headsail or jib that adds an extra boost when catching favorable winds from various angles.

If you’re feeling adventurous and yearn for more excitement than your average tea party, perhaps consider adopting a cutter rig. This setup boasts not one but two headsails! Picture yourself as Captain Jack Sparrow guiding your ship through treacherous waters – your mainsail stands tall like an uncompromising pirate flag while two headsails flank either side like loyal crew members ready to seize the wind’s power.

Now, hold on to your sailor hats as we delve into a rig that guarantees stares of admiration – the ketch rig. With not one, not two, but three masts, this rig exudes elegance and style. The primary mast supports a larger mainsail similar to the sloop rig , while a shorter mizzen mast towards the rear hoists a smaller sail for enhanced control and maneuverability. Just imagine cruising along the coastline in your sleek ketch rig, basking in envious gazes from shore-dwelling mortals.

For those venturing into more extreme sailing territories, where adrenaline runs high and risks tantalize every fiber of your being, behold the catamaran rig! Imagine yourself gliding atop twin hulls like a mythical creature skimming over water with ease. This unique setup features two separate hulls connected by a platform supporting multiple masts and sails . Astonishingly stable yet nimble, catamarans slice through waves with precision like an Olympic fencer aiming for gold.

So there you have it – an introduction to sail rigs that encompasses both tradition and innovation. Whether you’re drawn to the simplicity of a sloop rig or the boldness of a ketch or catamaran rig, each has its own allure waiting for you to discover. So prepare your sea legs, perfect your sailor lingo (avast ye!), and set forth into uncharted waters armed with knowledge about these sail rigs. Fair winds and smooth sailing await!

How to Rig Your Sailboat: A Step-by-Step Guide

Title: How to Rig Your Sailboat: A Step-by-Step Guide – Unleashing the Power of Your Vessel!

Introduction: Welcome aboard, fellow sailor! If you’ve just acquired a shiny new sailboat or are rekindling your passion for sailing after a long hiatus, understanding how to rig your vessel efficiently is paramount. In this comprehensive step-by-step guide, we will unravel the enigma surrounding sail rigging while injecting some wit and cleverness along the way. So tighten your sails and brace yourself for an invigorating journey into the intricacies of rigging your beloved sailboat .

Chapter 1: Understanding the Anatomy of a Sailboat Before diving headfirst into rigging, it’s crucial to familiarize yourself with the anatomy of your sailboat. From mastheads to halyards, booms to cleats, we’ll demystify these nautical terminologies in an entertaining manner that even landlubbers can appreciate!

Chapter 2: Preparing for Takeoff – Essential Tools and Materials To ensure smooth sailing ahead, you’ll need the right tools by your side. We’ll take a humorous approach as we walk you through the must-have equipment – from shackles and winches to handy splicing tools. Discover our secret “rigging toolkit” recommendations that will leave you prepared for any situation out on the open seas .

Chapter 3: Step-by-Step Rigging Process – Hoist Those Sails! Now comes the exciting part – it’s time to actually rig your sailboat ! Our step-by-step instructions coupled with amusing anecdotes will have you hoisting those sails like a seasoned mariner in no time. We’ll break down various aspects such as attaching shrouds and stays correctly, securing halyards snugly but not overly tight, and positioning boom vangs effectively.

Chapter 4: Safety First – Get Your Swabbers Ready! As sailors, we know that safety is the captain’s top priority. We’ll provide you with clever tips on ensuring your rigging remains strong and secure, thereby minimizing any potential mishaps on your seafaring adventures.

Chapter 5: Troubleshooting – Gusty Winds and Knotty Situations Just as sailors encounter rough waters, even the best of us may occasionally face unexpected challenges while rigging. Fear not! This section will tackle those gusty winds, tangled lines, and other knotty situations head-on, offering ingenious solutions sprinkled with wit that will keep you sailing smoothly through any storm.

Chapter 6: Maintenance Matters – Preserving Your Rig’s Pristine Condition As we near the end of our guide, it is essential to emphasize the importance of maintaining a well-kept rig. We’ll unravel simple maintenance routines that will help extend the lifespan of your sailboat’s rigging while entertaining you with anecdotes from fellow shipmates who learned these lessons the hard way.

Conclusion: Congratulations! You’ve successfully transformed from a sailboat enthusiast into an expert rigger after traversing this detailed guide with a touch of wit and cleverness. Rigging your sailboat need not be an intimidating endeavor; rather, it can be an enjoyable journey filled with memorable experiences at sea. So seize control of your vessel today by embracing the art of proper rigging – because nothing beats harnessing wind power to embark on extraordinary voyages!

Frequently Asked Questions About Sail Rigs

Welcome to our blog section, where we aim to answer some frequently asked questions about sail rigs. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a curious beginner, this piece will provide you with detailed professional insights along with a dash of witty and clever explanations.

1. What is a sail rig? A sail rig refers to the arrangement of sails on a boat or ship that enables it to harness the power of the wind for propulsion. It includes various components such as masts, boom, shrouds, and different types of sails.

2. How do different sail rigs work? There are several types of sail rigs used in sailing vessels. Let’s explore a few popular ones and their working principles:

– Sloop Rig : The sloop rig is one of the most common configurations found in recreational yachts. It consists of a single mast, capable of carrying two triangular sails – a mainsail and a headsail (usually called jib or genoa). This setup offers versatility and efficiency across different wind conditions.

– Ketch Rig: A ketch rig involves two masts – the mainmast towards the bow with a smaller mizzen mast located aft (toward the rear). Typically found on larger cruising boats, this configuration allows for more control by providing extra sail choices that can be adjusted independently.

– Schooner Rig: A schooner rig features multiple masts with fore-and-aft rigged sails (sails parallel to the keel) rather than triangular ones. While historically significant, schooners are now commonly seen in classic yacht races due to their elegant appearance.

3. Which sail rig is best for me? The choice of sail rig depends on various factors such as type of vessel, sailing purposes (racing or cruising), personal preference, and intended use. If you’re looking for simplicity and ease-of-use, sloop rigs usually fit the bill. On the other hand, if your goal is long-distance cruising with versatility and redundancy, ketch rigs might be a great choice.

4. Are there any other sail rig configurations ? Absolutely! In addition to the popular rigs mentioned above, there are several other interesting options like cat rigs (with a single mast set further forward), yawl rigs (resembling ketch but with a smaller mizzen mast), and even more exotic setups like junk rigs or gaff rigs. These alternative configurations often come with unique pros and cons suited to specific sailing preferences or historical revivalist enthusiasts .

5. Can sail rigs be customized? Indeed! Sail rig customization is popular among sailors seeking performance advancements or specific adaptations. Modern technology allows for modifications in materials, such as using carbon-fiber masts for weight reduction and improved stiffness. Additionally, adjustments in sail shape, size, or even the addition of bowsprits can optimize sailing characteristics.

6. How do I maintain my sail rig? Proper maintenance of your sail rig is crucial for its optimal performance and longevity. Regular inspections for wear and tear, checking lines and fittings for damage, and cleaning/maintaining your sails are essential practices. It’s also important to understand how to adjust the rig’s tension according to prevailing weather conditions to maximize efficiency while ensuring safety on the water .

We hope these professional yet playful explanations have sparked your interest in sail rigs. Whether you’re dreaming of embarking on a seafaring adventure or simply wanting to expand your nautical knowledge, understanding the ins-and-outs of sail rigs will undoubtedly enhance your appreciation for this timeless form of transportation powered by nature’s forces – wind and water!

Exploring Different Types of Sail Rigs for Your Boat

When it comes to sailing, one of the most crucial decisions you’ll have to make is choosing the right sail rig for your boat. With numerous options available, each offering unique advantages and capabilities, it can be quite overwhelming to understand all the possibilities. In this blog post, we will embark on an exploration of different types of sail rigs, providing you with a comprehensive understanding of each option.

1. Sloop Rig: The sloop rig is perhaps the most popular choice among sailboat owners due to its simplicity and versatility. Consisting of a single mast with two sails – a mainsail and a headsail (usually a jib) – this configuration provides excellent speed and maneuverability. Whether you’re cruising or racing, the sloop rig offers optimal performance in various wind conditions.

2. Cutter Rig: If you desire enhanced power and control, considering a cutter rig might be your best bet. This setup features multiple foresails (jibs or staysails) in addition to the traditional mainsail found in a sloop rig . The primary advantage of a cutter rig lies in its ability to handle strong winds without sacrificing stability. It’s perfect for long-distance cruising or ocean passages where being prepared for unpredictable weather is paramount.

3. Ketch Rig: Looking for elegance combined with practicality? The ketch rig might be your answer! Characterized by two masts – a taller mainmast aft and a shorter mizzenmast forward – this configuration allows for balanced sail area distribution and effortless control when cruising short-handed or in heavier seas. The ketch rig also offers versatility as you can easily adjust sails based on changing weather conditions.

4. Yawl Rig: Similar in design to the ketch rig , the yawl boasts two masts as well but with slight differences in positioning. The mizzenmast on a yawl is positioned aft of the rudderpost, whereas on a ketch it’s located forward. The yawl rig is ideal for cruising enthusiasts who value ease of handling and the ability to fine-tune sail balance using the mizzen. Additionally, many sailors find that the addition of a mizzenmast enhances overall stability .

5. Cat Rig: If you’re seeking simplicity in both rigging and sailing, a cat rig might be right up your alley. This uncomplicated setup consists of just one mast with a single sail typically called a catboat or a gaff-rigged sail. While it may not offer top-tier speed or pointing ability, the cat rig shines in its ease of use and reduced complexity, making it an excellent choice for casual sailors or those looking for hassle-free experiences on the water.

6. Schooner Rig: Step back into maritime history by selecting a schooner rig for your vessel. With two or more masts carrying fore-and-aft sails, the schooner evokes nostalgic beauty while providing exceptional sail area and versatility. Historically favored for its maneuverability and impressive speed downwind, this rig is perfect for those seeking classic aesthetics combined with practical functionality.

In conclusion, your choice of sail rig should align with your sailing goals and priorities – be it performance-driven racing aspirations, long-distance cruising adventures, or simply enjoying leisurely trips on calm waters. By understanding the characteristics and capabilities of different types of rigs like sloop, cutter, ketch, yawl, catboat/cat rig, and schooner – you can make an informed decision that will enhance your sailing experience to new horizons!

Mastering the Art of Sail Rigging: Tips and Tricks

Ah, there’s no feeling quite like sailing away on a calm sea with the wind gently propelling your vessel forward. The art of sail rigging is what makes this experience possible, as it ensures that your sails are set up in such a way as to catch and utilize every breath of wind to steer you towards your destination.

But fear not! Mastering sail rigging doesn’t have to be a daunting task. In fact, with a few tips and tricks up your sleeve, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a true seafaring expert in no time. So grab your compass and trusty tools, because we’re about to delve into the wonderful world of sail rigging!

1. Selecting the Right Lines: A sailor is only as good as their ropes or lines – after all, they are what bring the sails to life! When it comes to sail rigging, it’s essential to choose strong yet flexible lines that can withstand the forces exerted by both wind and sea . Look for high-quality materials such as polyester or nylon, which offer excellent durability while still remaining pliable enough for easy handling.

2. Understanding the Mast: The mast is like the backbone of any sailing vessel , providing crucial support for raising and adjusting the sails. To master sail rigging, get familiar with your mast by carefully inspecting its condition before each voyage – look out for cracks or weakened areas that may need repair. Knowing how much give and bend your mast has will also help optimize performance while under sail .

3. Tensioning Your Rig: Finding the right balance between loose and taut when tensioning your rig is key! Start by hoisting all halyards (ropes used to raise sails) until there’s just enough tension on them to remove any wrinkles from the luff (the front edge of a sail). Too much tension can distort the shape of your sails, hindering their efficiency, while too little may make them flappy and less effective at catching wind.

4. Properly Positioning Your Sails: The positioning of your sails in relation to the wind is paramount for a smooth sailing experience. The general rule is to trim your sails so that they are as flat as possible, ensuring maximum airflow for optimum speed. Keep an eye on telltales (small ribbons or yarn attached to sails) – if they’re streaming horizontally, you’ve got it just right!

5. Don’t Forget About Chafe Protection: Sail rigging isn’t just about initial setup; it’s about long-term sail care too! Protect your investment by using chafe protection where lines come into contact with any sharp edges or abrasive surfaces on board. By doing so, you’ll prevent unnecessary wear and tear, extending the life of both your rigging and sails .

6. Embrace Flexibility: Ahoy there, sailor! Remember that sail rigging isn’t an exact science – it requires a certain level of adaptability depending on weather conditions and individual preferences. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different settings; tweaking your sail trim and rig tension can lead to remarkable improvements in performance and overall maneuverability.

7. Practice Makes Perfect: As with most skills worth learning, practice makes perfect when it comes to mastering the art of sail rigging. Take every opportunity to set sail and put your newfound knowledge into action – adjust lines, experiment with various setups, and observe how changes affect your vessel’s response.

So there you have it – a comprehensive guide to mastering the art of sail rigging! With these tips and tricks up your sleeve, you’ll soon be sailing like a true professional while impressing even the most seasoned sailors with your wit and cleverness on deck. So hoist those sails high, catch that perfect gust of wind , and embark on unforgettable seafaring adventures. Happy rigging!

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Rigging Your Sailboat

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Rigging Your Sailboat: Setting Yourself Up for Smooth Sailing

Rigging your sailboat is a crucial step in ensuring a successful and safe sailing experience. However, even seasoned sailors can fall victim to common mistakes that can lead to complications on the water. In this blog post, we delve into some often-overlooked pitfalls and provide you with professional insights to help you navigate your rigging process flawlessly.

1. Insufficient Inspection: One of the gravest mistakes many boat owners make is failing to thoroughly inspect their rigging before each voyage. Neglecting this vital step can lead to catastrophic consequences, as worn-out wires or corroded fittings may result in mast failure or a broken boom. To avoid such mishaps, always set aside time for regular inspection and maintenance checks, paying close attention to wire tension, swage fittings, sheaves, and spreader boots.

2. Misjudged Wire Sizes: Choosing the right wire sizes for your rigging is crucial for maintaining structural integrity and stability on your sailboat . Many novice sailors make the mistake of underestimating the loads that their boat’s rigging will endure during different wind conditions. Failing to use adequately sized wires can result in excessive stretch, reduced performance, or even worse – a disastrous rig failure at sea. It’s recommended to consult an experienced rigger or refer to industry standards when selecting wire sizes based on your sail area and vessel type.

3. Poor Tensioning: Achieving optimal tension in your rigging is essential for achieving peak performance while maintaining safety throughout your sailing ventures. A common error made by sailors is simply guessing tension levels rather than utilizing proper measuring techniques such as using a Loos gauge or turnbuckle markings accurately. Improper tensioning can lead to detrimental effects like mast pumping (excessive flex) or distortion of sails’ intended shape; both negatively impact the boat’s speed and stability. Therefore, investing in a tension gauge and familiarizing yourself with the manufacturer’s recommendations is highly advised.

4. Neglected Chafe Protection: Overlooking chafe protection can have dire consequences on your rigging’s lifespan and overall safety. Hard edges, contact points with spreaders or other parts of the boat , or even friction between ropes can lead to premature wear and failure. To avoid these problems, install chafing gear such as leather covers or specialized tape on vulnerable areas to protect your rigging from destructive friction.

5. Overlooked Masthead Maintenance: The masthead is a crucial area that requires regular maintenance but is often overlooked by boat owners. The halyard sheaves, antenna fittings, lights, wind instruments, or even burgee halyards should be inspected frequently for any signs of wear or damage. By neglecting this part of your boat during routine maintenance checks, you risk compromising essential functions or encountering unexpected issues while out at sea.

Avoiding these common mistakes will set you on the path to an enjoyable and safe sailing experience. Remember that rigging a sailboat requires attention to detail, precision in measurements, and proactive maintenance practices. By being meticulous in your inspections while heeding expert advice, you can ensure smooth sailing adventures season after season!

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Understanding Sail Rig Types: A Comprehensive Guide

Understanding sail rig types is essential for any sailor, whether they’re a beginner or an experienced seafarer. Sail rig types determine the number of masts and the layout and shape of sails, which directly affects the boat’s performance and handling. There are several sail rig types used on sailing vessels, including the Bermuda rig, gaff rig, and lateen rig. Each sail rig type has its own advantages and disadvantages, and choosing the right one can make a significant difference in a sailor’s experience.

Table of Contents

Understanding Sail Rig Types

Sail rig types define the number of masts and the layout and shape of sails. Understanding sail rig types is essential for sailors who want to choose the right setup for their sailing adventure. In this section, we will explore the most common sail rig types.

The sloop rig is one of the most common and versatile sail rig types. It consists of a single mast at its center and a head sail (called a jib or genoa) in front. The sloop rig offers excellent maneuverability and balance, making it ideal for both racing and cruising adventures.

The cutter rig is similar to the sloop rig, but it has two head sails. The jib is smaller than the genoa, and it is located closer to the mast. The cutter rig provides better balance and sail area distribution than the sloop rig, making it ideal for long-distance cruising.

The ketch rig has two masts, with the main mast taller than the mizzen mast. The mainsail is located on the main mast, and the mizzen sail is located on the mizzen mast. The ketch rig provides better balance and sail area distribution than the sloop rig, making it ideal for cruising adventures.

The yawl rig is similar to the ketch rig, but the mizzen mast is shorter than the main mast. The mizzen sail is located behind the rudder, providing better steering control. The yawl rig is ideal for sailing in light winds and for cruising adventures.

The schooner rig has two or more masts, with the main mast taller than the other masts. The sails are fore-and-aft rigged, with the sails on the main mast being larger than the sails on the other masts. The schooner rig provides better sail area distribution than the sloop rig, making it ideal for long-distance cruising and racing.

Characteristics of Different Sail Rig Types

When it comes to sail rig types, there are several different options to choose from. Each type has its own unique characteristics that make it suitable for different sailing conditions and purposes. In this section, we will explore the characteristics of the most common sail rig types.

Sloop Characteristics

The sloop rig is one of the most common and versatile sail rig types. It consists of a single mast at its center and a head sail (called a jib or genoa) in front. The sloop rig offers excellent maneuverability and balance, making it ideal for both racing and cruising adventures. The following are some of the most notable characteristics of the sloop rig:

• Simple and easy to handle
• Offers good upwind performance
• Can be easily reefed for heavy weather
• Suitable for both short and long-distance sailing

Cutter Characteristics

The cutter rig is similar to the sloop rig, but it has two head sails instead of one. The jib is smaller than the genoa, and it is located closer to the mast. The cutter rig is known for its versatility and ability to handle a wide range of sailing conditions. The following are some of the most notable characteristics of the cutter rig:

• Offers excellent upwind performance
• Requires more crew to handle the additional sails

Ketch Characteristics

The ketch rig has two masts, with the main mast located at the center and the smaller mizzen mast located aft of the cockpit. The ketch rig is known for its ability to handle heavy weather and its excellent balance. The following are some of the most notable characteristics of the ketch rig:

• Suitable for long-distance sailing

Yawl Characteristics

The yawl rig is similar to the ketch rig, but the mizzen mast is located further aft of the cockpit. The yawl rig is known for its excellent balance and ability to handle heavy weather. The following are some of the most notable characteristics of the yawl rig:

Schooner Characteristics

The schooner rig has two or more masts, with the foremast taller than the aft mast(s). The schooner rig is known for its ability to handle heavy weather and its excellent balance. The following are some of the most notable characteristics of the schooner rig:

Choosing the Right Sail Rig Type

Factors to consider.

When choosing a sail rig type, there are several factors to consider. These include the intended use of the boat, the sailing conditions, and the sailor’s skill level.

Intended Use of the Boat

The intended use of the boat is an important factor to consider when choosing a sail rig type. For example, if the boat is intended for racing, a rig that offers excellent maneuverability and speed, such as the sloop rig, may be preferred. On the other hand, if the boat is intended for cruising, a rig that is easy to handle and provides good stability, such as the ketch rig, may be more suitable.

Sailing Conditions

The sailing conditions, such as wind strength and sea state, should also be taken into account when choosing a sail rig type. For example, in light wind conditions, a rig that provides good light air performance, such as the gaff rig, may be preferred. In heavy wind conditions, a rig that is easy to reef, such as the Bermuda rig, may be more suitable.

Sailor’s Skill Level

The sailor’s skill level is another important factor to consider when choosing a sail rig type. For example, a beginner sailor may find a rig that is easy to handle, such as the sloop rig, more manageable. A more experienced sailor may prefer a rig that provides more challenge and requires greater skill, such as the square rig.

Pros and Cons of Each Type

Each sail rig type has its own advantages and disadvantages. Here are some of the pros and cons of each type:

Maintenance and Care for Sail Rig Types

Sail rig types, like any other equipment, require regular maintenance and care to ensure their longevity. Neglecting your sail rig can lead to serious problems while sailing, such as rig failure, which can be dangerous and costly. Here are some tips for maintaining and caring for sail rig types.

Routine Checks

Performing routine checks is the first step in maintaining your sail rig. Check the rigging for any signs of wear and tear, such as broken strands, rust, or corrosion. Inspect the sails for any damage, such as tears, holes, or fraying. Check the mast, boom, and other hardware for any cracks or damage. Also, check the halyards, sheets, and other lines for any signs of wear and tear.

Preventive Measures

Preventive measures can help you avoid problems with your sail rig. One of the most important preventive measures is to keep your sail rig clean and dry. Saltwater can corrode your rigging and hardware, so it is important to rinse your sail rig with fresh water after every use. Also, store your sails in a dry place to prevent mold and mildew from forming. Another preventive measure is to avoid overloading your sail rig. Overloading can put unnecessary stress on the rigging and hardware, which can lead to failure.

Repairs and Replacements

Even with routine checks and preventive measures, sail rig types can still require repairs and replacements. If you notice any signs of wear and tear, such as broken strands or tears in the sails, it is important to address them immediately. Small problems can quickly become big problems if left unchecked. Repairs can often be done on your own, but for more complex repairs or replacements, it is best to consult with a professional.

In conclusion, understanding sail rig types is crucial for any sailor who wants to have a successful and enjoyable sailing experience. There are various types of sail rigs used in sailing, including the Bermuda rig, gaff rig, square rig, lug rig, lateen rig, and more. Each rig type has its unique features, advantages, and disadvantages that must be considered when choosing the right one for a particular sailing situation.

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The Various Types of Sailboats and Rigs

 Aditya Adjie / EyeEm / Getty Images

The Modern Sloop

The most common type of small-to-midsize sailboat is the sloop. The rig is one mast and two sails. The mainsail is a tall, triangular sail mounted to the mast at its leading edge, with the foot of the sail along the boom, which extends aft from the mast. The sail in front called the jib or sometimes the headsail, mounts on the forestay between the bow and the masthead, with its trailing corner controlled by the jib sheet.

The Bermuda or Marconi Rig

These tall triangular sails are called the Bermuda rig, or sometimes the Marconi rig, named for their development more than two centuries ago in Bermudan boats. Because of the physics of how force is generated by wind blowing past a sail, tall thin sails generally have more power when the boat is sailing into the wind.

Racing Sloop

Gail Oskin / Getty Images

Here is another example of a sloop with a Bermuda rig. This is PUMA Ocean Racing's il Mostro, one of the fastest monohull sailboats in the world, in the 2008/2009 Volvo Ocean Race. The sails are much bigger than found on most cruising sailboats, but the general rig is the same. In both of the sloops shown so far, the jib reaches to the top of the masthead. These are sometimes called masthead sloops.

Fractional Sloop Rig

Ahunt [CC0] / Wikimedia Commons

Here, notice a small racing dinghy with a sloop rig. This is still a Bermuda rig, but the mainsail is proportionally larger and the jib smaller, for ease of handling and maximum power. Note that the top of the jib rises only a fraction of the distance to the masthead. Such a rig is called a fractional sloop.

KenWiedemann / Getty Images

While a sloop always has two sails, a cat-rigged boat generally has only one. The mast is positioned very far forward, almost at the bow, making room for a very long-footed mainsail. The mainsail of a cat rig may have a traditional boom or, as in this boat, a loose-footed mainsail attached at the aft corner to what is called a wishbone boom.

Compared to Bermuda Rigs

A primary advantage of a cat rig is the ease of sail handling, such as not having to deal with jib sheets when tacking. Generally, a cat rig is not considered as powerful as a Bermuda rig, however, and is more rarely used in modern boats.

Cat-Rigged Racing Dinghy

technotr / Getty Images

In this photo, there is another cat rig, which works well on small racing dinghies like this Laser. With a small boat and one sailor, a cat rig has the advantages of being simple to trim and very maneuverable when racing.​

John White Photos / Getty Images

A popular rig for midsize cruising boats is the ketch, which is like a sloop with a second, smaller mast set aft called the mizzenmast. The mizzen sail functions much like a second mainsail. A ketch carries about the same total square footage of sail area as a sloop of the equivalent size.

Make Sail Handling Easy

The primary advantages of a ketch are that each of the sails is usually somewhat smaller than on a sloop of equivalent size, making sail handling easier. Smaller sails are lighter, easier to hoist and trim and smaller to stow. Having three sails also allows for more flexible sail combinations. For example, with the wind at an intensity that a sloop might have to double-reef the main to reduce sail area, a ketch may sail very well under just jib and mizzen. This is popularly called sailing under “jib and jigger”—the jigger being an old square-rigger term for the aft-most mast flying a triangular sail.

While a ketch offers these advantages to cruisers, they may also be more expensive because of the added mast and sail. The sloop rig is also considered faster and is therefore used almost exclusively in racing sailboats.

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A yawl is very similar to a ketch. The mizzenmast is usually smaller and sets farther aft, behind the rudder post, while in a ketch the mizzenmast is forward of the rudder post. Aside from this technical difference, the yawl and ketch rigs are similar and have similar advantages and disadvantages.

Tomás Fano [ CC BY-SA 2.0 ], via Wikimedia Commons

A typical schooner has two masts, and sometimes more, but the masts are positioned more forward in the boat. Unlike in a ketch or yawl, the forward mast is smaller than the aft mast (or sometimes the same size). One or more jibs may fly forward of the foremast.

Traditional Schooners

While some modern schooners may use triangular, Bermuda-like sails on one or both masts, traditional schooners like the one shown here have gaff-rigged sails. At the top of the sail is a short spar called the gaff, which allows the sail to extend back along a fourth side, gaining size over a triangular sail of the same height.

Gaff-rigged schooners are still seen in many areas and are well loved for their historic appearance and sweeping lines, but they are seldom used anymore for private cruising. The gaff rig is not as efficient as the Bermuda rig, and the rig is more complicated and requires more crew for sail handling.

Schooner With Topsail and Flying Jibs

  Print Collector   / Getty Images

Above is another gaff-rigged schooner that is using a topsail and several flying jibs. Tacking or gybing a complicated sail plan like this takes a lot of crew and expertise.

Square-Rigged Tall Ship

Bettmann  / Getty Images

In this illustration, notice a large three-masted square-rigger flying five tiers of square sails, several headsails, and a mizzen sail. Although this is a modern ship, one of many still used around the world for sail training and passenger cruise ships, the rig is essentially unchanged from centuries ago. Columbus, Magellan, and the other early sea explorers sailed in square-riggers.

Generating Power

Remarkably efficient sailing downwind or well off the wind, square sails do not generate power from their leading edge as in the Bermuda rig, which has become predominant in modern times. Thus, square-riggers generally do not sail upwind. It was due to this limitation that the great trade wind sailing routes around the world were developed centuries ago.

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The definitive guide to sailing yacht rigging

Related articles, superyacht directory.

Do you know your Bermudan rig from your DynaRig or wingsails? And which is best? BOAT explains it all...

Take a look at a modern racing yacht from above, beating to windward and heeled to the breeze, and you can see at a glance why Bermudan rigs have stood the test of time. With its fore and aft sails bladed into efficient aerodynamic shapes, a modern yacht can slice close to the wind and be driven hard. Such a sight would have been outlandish a century ago. Then, a typical trading barquentine could set 18 sails to catch light airs, but it needed a large crew to battle with canvas far out on the yards. In a modern miracle as incredible in its way as flight, today’s racing yachts can sail faster than the speed of the wind – in some cases several times faster.

A mainsail set on a single spar is an age-old concept but only in the 19th century was it adapted as the Bermudan or Marconi rig. A one-piece mainsail set on a mast without a gaff, hoisted with one halyard and controlled by one sheet, was simpler and more efficient. This revolution became the power train of pleasure yachting and racing.

But perhaps the time is coming for a re-evaluation of simpler rigs requiring fewer crew – alternatives with lower loads operated by automated systems. In an era of reduced carbon consumption, could more radical sailplans even herald a revival in sail power?

The evergreen Bermudan rig

The Bermudan rig is the all-rounder, able to perform well at all angles of sail. It is efficient upwind, while downwind the sail area can be significantly boosted with a big gennaker or spinnaker. For good reasons, it is the first choice for nearly every modern sailing yacht up to around 60 to 65 metres for cruising and regatta racing alike. At larger sizes, however, things start to become trickier, and the trade-offs get interesting.

Over the last decade, sail handling technology has steadily advanced to allow sloop rigs to grow larger and larger. “But with that comes a highly loaded rig, many tonnes of compression from tension in the rigging, and you have to build structure in the boat to accept that,” explains Paul MacDonald, founder and superyacht sales manager of Southern Spars.

“You have to have a lot of deck gear and captive winches below decks and the machinery for that. But over the years, boom furling systems and MPS [Multi Purpose Sails for downwind angles] stored on a drum, for example, have made sail handling safer.

Bill Tripp is the designer behind the 86-metre Aquijo , which broke new ground in 2015 as the world’s largest Bermudan ketch. Tripp prefers to call the rig a "sketch", a portmanteau word for a rig that is neither a sloop nor a ketch “because the main and mizzen are identical”. Even though the sailplan is divided over two masts, each spar is still a towering 90 metres above the water. Aquijo perfectly illustrates the issues involved with a Bermudan rig when scaled up.

“The sloop is great but I prefer the ‘sketch’ for sailing around the world under full control due to the desirability of a two-masted rig for reaching ability, which dominates passages, and the safety of controllable loads when sailing in all kinds of conditions miles from nowhere,” he says.

Upwind, Aquijo sets a jib, staysail, mainsail and mizzen, all in North Sails 3Di, totalling 3,821 square metres. A furling Code sail for reaching and downwind angles increases that to a vast 5,051 square metres.

While Aquijo has a crew retinue of 17, it can be controlled under sail by six or seven people. With custom winches to handle halyards and sheets, the sails can be hoisted astonishingly quickly for such a large rig. “It takes five minutes to put the main up, on average, and the main and mizzen can go up at the same time,” Tripp says. Aquijo has now sailed 100,000 nautical miles around the world and the owner is planning another circumnavigation through the Northwest Passage.

Tripp is not convinced of the wisdom of a much larger single-masted sloop rig. “If you are day sailing in the Med, a sloop would be awesome, but I am not sure if you had fewer sails you would be able to [reduce canvas] well enough. Also the mast is a windage problem when the keel is up and you are beam-to. If you are on anchor, that’s no problem but you’d have to be able to cope with being on the docks in 70 knots. The windage at 120 metres is not only more but the centre of effort is so much higher, and so the heeling loads all go up.”

However, British designer Malcolm McKeon , the name behind the high-performance, sloop-rigged carbon composite superyachts Missy and Ribelle , is pushing the sloop rig to new heights. His 85-metre design concept Apex, developed with Royal Huisman , would be the largest sloop-rigged yacht in the world. “The loads are enormous,” he admits, “but it is all scalable.”

“The big disadvantage is sail handling. The downwind sails are pretty complicated once you start hoisting and retrieving, even with drum and reel systems. It is not straightforward.” But, he adds, “I think we know the advantages of a sloop: if you want all-round performance you can’t beat it, even at the top end.”

Advantages of a clipper rig

The DynaRig has been around as a concept since the 1960s when German engineer Wilhelm Prölss devised these free-standing, rotating rigs as a fuel-saving solution for large commercial vessels. The idea was ahead of its time, so much so that its first realisation came nearly 40 years later when American owner Tom Perkins bought the residual technology and commissioned Dykstra Naval Architects to create a three-masted DynaRig for Maltese Falcon , his 88-metre Perini Navi.

The DynaRig is not as efficient upwind as the Bermudan rig, and is probably not the best solution for a yacht smaller than around 65 metres, suggests Jeroen de Vos of Dykstra. “We wouldn’t advise putting a DynaRig on a small yacht because there are other ways to manage sail handling. But on a larger yacht the DynaRig becomes an alternative because there is no rigging, no highly loaded sheets, low-tech [small] sails and no big winches.”

The beauty of the DynaRig is that its automatic systems can be handled by one or two people and, notes de Vos, “you don’t have to get out of your chair to go sailing. Maltese Falcon can sail on and off the anchor and can set 2,400 square metres of sail in six minutes. On other boats it takes six minutes to get the sail cover off.”

Damon Roberts of Magma Structures, which built the rigs for Maltese Falcon and the only other DynaRig yacht to date, the 106-metre Black Pearl , says: “You can do any manoeuvre easily; it’s like sailing a dinghy. There are no highly loaded sheets or ropes or flogging lines. You can luff up, bear away, tack and gybe at  any time and really enjoy sailing the boat without any apparent fuss.”

So with all these advantages, why has the DynaRig been chosen for only two sailing superyachts? For some designers, such as Malcolm McKeon, it is partly to do with compromises imposed by the large mast tubes and bearing diameters on the internal structure and layout, “particularly in the cockpit area,” he says. He also points out that the clipper ship look is not to every owner’s taste. “Sloops are more conventional looking,” he says.

Damon Roberts says there is still development work to be done. He has teamed up with Southern Spars and, with their additional resources, expects evolution with several new projects. “These include two at the moment that are twin-masted DynaRigs,” he says. “We did quite a lot of wind tunnel work early on as we felt that was really the sweet spot for it, and people will be stunned at how efficient these are.”

The future of the wingsail

Wingsails have been around for decades too, but with their adoption by the last two America’s Cups and the confluence with foiling technology, they have undergone rapid and revolutionary development.

To date, there is no proven solution for reefing a wing that would be suitable for offshore cruising or ocean passages. As the pronounced aerodynamic “nose” at the leading edge of a wing can develop force in strong winds, they could potentially make a large yacht uncontrollable in port as well.

“How do you get rid of sail and how does [a boat] handle when caught out in heavy wind conditions – which you will be? How do you keep the angle of attack all the way up the rig and how do you handle squalls?” Roberts asks. “A mechanism to reduce sail might be easy to sketch out but it is difficult to engineer.”

Jeroen de Vos says: “The wingsails are more developed towards performance and I wouldn’t say that they are as practical as soft sails or would ever make handling easier. But if somebody wants that, why not? Reefable soft sails, wings that are inflated, hoisted panels, possibly these are applicable. The development of this area is happening very rapidly.”

Paul MacDonald of Southern Spars agrees that the time is not here yet but thinks it will come. “In reality we are in the early days of wings. For the America’s Cup, they are the most efficient way of sailing by a long shot, but with them comes handling issues, which the industry hasn’t resolved yet. But I am sure they will be in 10 years’ time. Designers such as VPLP are starting to [work on concepts] and we are going to see something that is usable and efficient and suitable for ocean work eventually,” he says. “And whatever the solution is, you imagine that it will scale.”

Looking to the future

A drive for greener superyachts could present an opportunity for sail, but perhaps it needs to be less daunting.

“There is this intimidation of sheets and backstays, and sailing is a language you don’t learn in a year,” Tripp says. “But we have a project we are doing now with a yard with some new rig technology and some soft wings that we think is going to be viable.

“We can uncomplicate sailing more. If we can win people over from motorboats it will help, but we are only winning these battles one or two at a time. We need [more] projects like Sailing Yacht A , which are something really different, and do more things better with less energy. We as architects need to elicit change.”

McKeon also sees change coming. “People are more and more concerned about keeping their image green and sails are the way to do that,” he says. “Simpler sailing systems are needed. The current generation is used to Bermudan sloops. In years to come, the traditionalists will all be gone, and maybe new people will be more accepting of [different ideas]. I think in the future we will certainly have wings.”

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Sail boat rigs: the pros and cons of each popular design

• Peter Poland
• July 24, 2023

Peter Poland looks at the history of popular rig designs and how the different types affect boat performance

Annie Hill’s FanShi can be easily reefed, a real benefit of the junk rig when sailing solo. Credit: Annie Hill Credit: Annie Hill

Having once asked yacht designer Andrew Wolstenholme if we could meet to discuss the evolution of modern sail boat rigs – and the continuing popularity of some older designs – we talked about boats in general and gaff rigs in particular, many of which he designs.

“The gaff still has much to recommend it. With stiffer, yet lighter carbon fibre spars , it can offer bigger benefits than it ever did in the past,” said Andrew.

His recent gaff-rigged designs like the new Cornish Crabber 24 MkV and smaller Kite 21 prove this point.

The 45ft barge yacht  Juno  was designed by Andrew Wolstenholme, built by Charlie Ward and launched in 2000. If you fancy a taste of history she can be chartered through  www.sailingbargejuno.com . Credit: Neil Foster

It’s generally accepted that the gaff evolved from the spritsail rig , which in turn evolved from earlier lugsail and – before then – square sail rigs .

The lugsail attaches to a spar that is hoisted at an angle. So part of the spar and sail protrude ahead of the mast, and this leading edge enables a boat to sail upwind.

The evolution of the lugsail started when someone discovered that by setting a square sail at an angle – with one end of the yard pointing down towards the deck – the sail could set closer to the wind.

Upwind advantage

Some say the Chinese junk rig is also descended from square sails as used on Chinese ships before the 12th century.

The junk rig , also known as the Chinese lugsail or sampan rig, evolved with full length battens extending the sail forward of the mast, providing a leading edge to help sail upwind.

The ever-inventive Blondie Hasler designed and built a modern version of the junk rig for his modified Nordic Folkboat, Jester .

He then entered the first single-handed transatlantic race in 1960, helping to initiate the OSTAR and boosting the appeal of long-distance solo sailing in general, and the junk rig in particular.

Blondie Hasler’s Jester helped cement the appeal of the modern junk rig. Credit: Ewen Southby-Tailyour

David Tyler, Annie Hill and Roger Taylor are three leading lights of the Hasler-inspired move to modern junk rigs, and have sailed many thousands of miles between them.

A Sadler 25 was the first of five junk rig boats that David Tyler owned. He and Annie Hill were also founder members of the ever-informative Junk Rig Association .

David told me he “could not contemplate sailing under anything else than a junk rig”, and has a long history of experimenting with and making variations of the junk rig.

David Thomas designed a ply/epoxy 35ft shoal draught junk rig ocean cruiser for David Tyler.

Tystie  with an earlier single mast sail plan. She later converted to a ketch  rig . Credit: Darren Bos

Hedley Bewes built Tystie beside the Hamble to a completed and painted woodwork stage; then Tyler fitted her out with junk rig, engine , electrics , and deck hardware in just three months.

She was launched in August 2000 and ended up in New Zealand, where she was sold – 16 years later – having sailed 85,000 miles.

“I could not possibly have done this under any other rig,” said David.

He then designed a modern cambered junk rig for his Hunter Duette 23, admitting that this “still does not compete with a big genoa to windward but is superior in all other ways – especially if you define efficiency as ‘miles sailed per unit of input of crew effort’. She had a junk rig of my own design first, then a junk rig-based wingsail.”

David concluded that a modern cambered junk rig “can encompass many features: including various sailmaking ways of building 3D camber into each panel with straight battens; or a flat sail with hinged battens; or a flat fanned sail with twist (a fiendishly cunning method found in Hong Kong junks). My favourite sail has slightly cambered panels with hinged battens. This is easier to set without diagonal creases than deeply cambered panels; and has a smoother curved foil shape than a flat sail with hinges.”

Sail boat rigs proven offshore

Annie Hill is another junk rig enthusiast who has sailed many thousands of miles and written books about her voyages.

She’s now based in New Zealand, having built the David Tyler-designed FanShi “from scratch with a small amount of amateur assistance from friends.”

“The best aspect of a junk rig for single-handed sailing is the speed and ease with which you can reef ,” explained Annie. “The sail tacks automatically which helps in close quarters sailing, as does having exactly the right amount of sail for the situation. I find another great advantage is that when I’m sailing off the anchor or a mooring , I can raise three or four panels, so the boat doesn’t go charging off as I walk back to the cockpit. I can then raise the rest of the sail while leaving the anchorage. And of course, I only raise just what I need.”

Annie Hill christens her self-built FanShi on launch day in New Zealand. Credit: Annie Hill

Annie Hill mentions several junk rig benefits: “The junk rig is much easier to handle downwind. It’s reluctant to gybe until you are sailing well by the lee. The sail is fully squared out so that it is working efficiently. And it’s easy to change from running to reaching to beating, without having to handle guys, poles or vangs.

“In short, the junk rig is much easier to sail. The junk sail is intrinsically self-tacking, which makes beating to windward, especially in close quarters, infinitely less work. Ease of reefing – and making sail again – also means you always sail under the correct amount of canvas. This makes for faster passages and ensures the boat is properly underway in the aftermath of a gale.”

And the disadvantages? Most agree that the junk rig is less efficient when s ailing to windward in light airs .

Easy handling

Roger Taylor came upon the junk rig when buying his first Mingming ; one of around 25 factory-built junk rig Corribees.

“The conversion work was to make her more suitable for serious offshore work – unsinkable, watertight bulkheads, reduced cockpit, proper watertight hatch and so on. I bought her specifically to sail in the first Jester Challenge , and so nothing was more appropriate than a junk rig! I had, in any case, been fascinated by Jester herself for many decades.”

Mingming II came next – a standard triple keel Achilles 24 – so Roger replaced her Bermuda rig with a new junk rig.

Roger Taylor has covered many solo miles in his modified Achilles 24, Mingming II and says the junk sail is easy to repair at sea. Credit: Bertie Milne

“The main differences to the Hasler sail on Mingming were higher aspect ratio for speed in the light airs you get in the high Arctic latitudes in summer – so seven panels instead of six. And cambered panels instead of flat-cut, for better windward performance.

“The lower four panels were built separately as I didn’t have enough room in my London flat to sew the sail in one piece. It’s attached to the carbon-fibre battens with a hinge system. I named the sail the HHT – Hybrid Hinged Turbo! The unstayed mast was a cut down municipal lamp post, 8in diameter at the base, tapering to about 3in at the masthead; solid as a rock in all weathers.”

Roger added “I can reef instantaneously from the hatch and do all other sail handling from the safety and shelter of the main hatch. So I am never exposed on deck and am therefore warmer, drier, less stressed, and therefore more likely to make better decisions.”

As well as ease of handling, Roger says it is “a wonderfully relaxed and supple rig, with none of the extreme tensions of its Bermuda cousin.”

“The sensation at sea is quite different; you feel more in harmony with the elements, rather than their adversary. Few junk rig sailors I know would ever revert once they have experienced this. The rig is easy to repair at sea. If a sail panel tears you can take it out of service by lashing two battens together. If a batten breaks you can lash it to its neighbour (I did almost a whole voyage to Iceland and back like this, after breaking a batten in a Force 9 off the Dogger Bank) or fix it with a splint. With a fully battened rig, the sail is evenly supported at all points.”

A classic sail boat rig

Moving on to modern luggers , there are some recent interpretations of this classic rig.

British designer Nigel Irens is famous for his multihulls but also has an eye for the unusual, and in 1994 he came up with a couple of beautiful luggers.

His first was the Roxane , a 29ft yawl-rigged lugger loosely inspired by an old Shetland Island fishing boat.

Fitted with a carbon fibre main mast and yard, she has plenty of modern technology on board.

As an active racing class boat that doubles up as a tender and potterer, the 11ft 4in lug sail scow has many fans. Credit: Will Perritt/Alamy

He followed this with the smaller 22ft Romilly , another yawl-rigged lugger for trailer sailing . Both models were later produced by CoCoBe in Holland.

The songwriter and broadcaster Sir Richard Stilgoe was “immediately beguiled” by the Roxane after sailing her in 1995, and has his own called Ruby II .

“The lightness of the carbon spars undoubtedly makes a difference to stability. The rig works and sails really nicely. But I admit that I and another owner are working with Nigel to investigate a conversion to two Bermuda masts – still unstayed – with fathead sails. I don’t expect to go faster, but I do hope to be able to raise and lower the sails more quickly and easily,” said Sir Richard.

If you fancy trying a very small lugsail boat, the famous 11ft 4in scow has much to offer.

It’s widely sailed in the UK and the best-known example is the Lymington Scow. Fleets can be found along the South Coast.

Originally built in clinker, scows are now moulded in GRP.

Rooted in the past

The spritsail is another rig evolution. It appeared on small Greek craft in the Aegean Sea many centuries ago. The Romans followed suit with spritsail-rigged merchant ships.

The rig became increasingly sophisticated until the luff of the sail sat behind the mast, while the sprit went from the base of the mast to the peak of the sail.

The luff became long and straight and the boat could sail closer to the wind, especially with leeboards to reduce sideways drift and a foresail to increase sail area: both said to be Dutch innovations.

The most famous spritsail rigged workhorses were the large, flat-bottomed leeboard Thames barges, which could lower their masts to ‘shoot’ bridges before unloading their cargo.

The Optimist was designed as low cost started boats to children. Credit: Getty

There aren’t many new spritsail-rigged craft around these days, apart from thousands of Optimist dinghies sailed by children as starter-boats.

The Optimist was designed in 1947 by American Clark Mills to offer low-cost sailing for young people.

He drew a simple pram that could be built from three sheets of plywood, then the design was slightly modified and introduced in Europe by Axel Damsgaard.

There are now more than 160,000 Optimists sailed in around 120 countries.

At the 2020 Olympics, at least 75% of medallist skippers were former Optimist champions: the spritsail remains a cornerstone of sailing.

Working boat designs

The gaff rig – extensively used on workboats of all sorts – was a logical progression.

The sprit was replaced by a gaff that slid up the mast so two sides of the mainsail were attached to solid spars.

The later addition of a boom improved performance, but made lowering and raising the rig trickier when shooting bridges.

Some builders solved this problem by attaching the boom gooseneck to the top of a tall tabernacle in which the mast hinged, so the lowered mast, gaff and sail could still stack on top of the boom.

Continues below…

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Peter Poland looks at the history of keel design and how the different types affect performance

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Peter Poland explains how boat hull design has evolved over the years and how it affects boat handling and accommodation

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Little old boats can offer enormous fun for your money, but they often require some tweaking in order to be…

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David Harding looks at some of the latest developments in junk rig and meets the owners of different types of…

The gaff rig improved the versatility of workboats; the ability to sail to windward diluted sailors’ dread of a lee shore.

The gaff rig held sway on small to medium sized working craft and on growing numbers of leisure yachts until the Bermuda rig arrived.

Originally developed in Bermuda for smaller vessels then adapted to the larger ocean-going Bermuda sloop, this rig features a triangular mainsail hoisted to the top of the mast. Marconi’s invention of wire rigging to hold up tall radio masts soon spread to sailboats.

Performance-oriented designers borrowed Marconi’s idea and hoisted large three-sided mainsails on tall and well-supported masts.

As a result, the mainsail had a long, straight leading edge which optimised windward performance.

Crafted for speed

Predictably, yacht racing encouraged the proliferation of these ‘Marconi’ Bermuda rigs.

Metre boat and ocean racer designers were quick to forsake gaffs and go for large mainsails and smallish headsails set on tall masts.

When the Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC)’s rules started influencing the post-war racing scene, masthead Bermuda rigs with smaller mainsails and larger overlapping genoas received favourable racing handicaps and therefore became the norm; masthead rigs with 150% overlapping genoas dominated the scene.

Fortuitously, self-tailing winches were invented (1974 patent) and fitted on race boats. And GRP production family cruisers followed suit.

The Westerly Centaur with a masthead rig and overlapping genoa

From top-selling Beneteaus like the First 30 (1977) to cruising twin keelers like the Westerly Centaur (1969), masthead rigs and overlapping genoas became the norm.

At the same time, the shorter mast, smaller main and standard working jib saved the builder money – and a large genoa went onto the ‘extras’ list!

The Hunter 19 was an example of how the RORC rule encouraged small mains and big genoas.

The National Squib keelboat’s identical hull and keel sports a well-balanced fractional rig with a small jib and a big mainsail.

But when the Squib grew a cabin and coachroof to become a handicap race boat, the rig height and mainsail shrunk while the headsail became a 150% genoa.

And early Hunter 19s won handicap races galore.

Meanwhile, classic 1960s and 70s cruiser-racers such as the Nicholson 32 , Contessa 26 and 32, Twister, Stella, Beneteaus and Jeanneaus et al clung to masthead rigs with small mainsails, working jibs and large genoas; the latter still lurking on the extras list.

The same applied to most of the British bilge- and twin-keel family cruisers .

Fractional sail boat rigs

Impressed by David Thomas’s quarter ton design, Quarto , Hunter was one of the first British builders to beat a path back to fractional rigged cruiser-racers .

Unlike most other quarter tonners at that time, Quarto featured a fractional rig.

In 1975, Hunter asked Thomas to design a GRP cruiser-racer with a similar rig. This became the Sonata, and Hunter never again built a masthead-rigged yacht.

At around the same time, the new International Offshore Rule (IOR) handicap rule – followed later by the Channel Handicap System (CHS) and International Rating Certificate (IRC) rules – treated fractional sail boat rigs more fairly.

Hunter twin keelers, like the Hunter Channel 31, have fractional rigs. Photo: Sven Petersen/Hunter Association

Hunter’s twin keel cruisers also had easily handled fractional rigs, later including self-tacking jibs as standard.

As most sailors moved over to Bermuda rigs, working boats such as fishing smacks and pilot cutters stuck to their four-sided mainsails held aloft on gaffs.

As did several leisure yachts. Why? What are the advantages of these ‘four sided’ mainsails?

While gaff-rig aficionados concede that it’s less close-winded than a Bermuda rig, they reckon it scores off the wind.

Although a gaffer’s mast is shorter, ample sail can be set because the gaff puts more area at the top of a mainsail than you get beneath the diminutive headboard on a Bermuda rig mainsail.

On a reach or a run, gaff rigs provide power aplenty.

Design expert CA Marchaj also said a low aspect ratio mainsail is more efficient than a high aspect ratio equivalent when sailing off the wind.; if you want to pile on more horsepower in light airs, the space above the gaff can also be filled with a topsail.

Ideal for novices

In the 21st century, modern gaffers are still popular, and thousands of novices enjoy sailing in a ubiquitous and simple little gaffer: the Mirror dinghy .

The Mirror’s gunter-rigged gaff slides up parallel to its short mast and offers many benefits.

Sail boat rigs: The Mirror Dinghy originally had a gunter-rigged gaff rig; later the Mirror Class introduced a Bermuda rig option. Credit: Getty

The mast and gaff are much shorter than a one-piece Bermuda rig mast, so are easy to handle and transport when the boat is trailed.

Yet windward performance is good, thanks to the straight luff that continues from the tack of the mainsail to its head on the ‘gunter’ gaff.

The Mirror Class later introduced a Bermuda rig option.

Modern gaffers

Designer Andrew Wolstenholme attributes much of the credit for the popularity of the gaff rig in cruising yachts to Cornish Crabbers.

These boats have sold in large numbers since Roger Dongray designed the original Cornish Crabber.

Her smaller sister, the 19ft Cornish Shrimper, sports a nicely balanced gaff rig with a sizable roller genoa tacked to a bowsprit.

Over 1,000 have been sold and she’s still in production. Wolstenholme has recently designed a new Cornish Crabber 24 MkV with a lightweight carbon mast which also simplifies trailer-sailing.

Sail boat rigs: The gaff-rigged Cornish Crabber 24, with a lightweight carbon mast. Credit: David Harding

Wolstenholme’s Kite 21 is another modern gaffer to take advantage of new materials.

“My aim is to keep her light and simple… the sail plan is generous and set on lightweight carbon spars. I want her to sail well in light and moderate winds – not just in a blow. I want to tow her behind a normal 1.8 litre saloon – not some gas guzzling 4×4.”

The Old Gaffers Association aims to encourage interest in the traditional gaff rig, but also welcomes the development of the rig.

One of these exotic ‘new’ gaffers is the Simon Rogers-designed Alice III. Chris Spencer-Chapman, whose company McKillop Classic Sails was involved in the rig and sail plan, says the “combination of the light carbon spars and hydraulic lifting deep fin and bulb keel allows an enormous sail area which would not be possible with a conventional hull and spars. She is exciting in light conditions but the windage can be an issue to windward in heavy conditions. “Off the wind she is always very fast… for easy cruising, the Bermuda rig will win, but there will always be the aficionado who likes the features of traditional rigs. Unless you are a real purist, why not take advantage of modern materials?”

Sail boat rigs: The Kite 21 is a modern gaffer designed to sail well in light and moderate winds. Credit: Peter Chesworth

Stephen Akester, who co-owns Alice III , told me she “is light displacement at 7.5 tonnes. In light airs and no sea she outperforms Bermuda rigs but to windward in a blow she loses out due to windage and not being as close winded. [She has] much less weight aloft and a very different motion to a classic gaff-rigged heavy displacement vessel. We opted for a gaff rig for the fun of it. Further refinements using modern materials mean we can set the rig up for single-handed sailing with headsails and topsail on rollers and boom bags to catch main and mizzen.”

The Nigel Irens-designed 63ft Maggie B was another dramatic ‘modern gaffer’.

Builder Covey Island Boatworks called her a ‘fusion’ yacht because she fused modern materials with traditional ideas.

Her schooner rig featured short, high peaked carbon gaffs on Irens’s slippery and almost plumb stemmed shoal draught hull design.

The carbon spars are held up by Vectran fibre shrouds tensioned by special deadeyes.

Reducing weight

Vectran costs more than wire, but the weight reduction is huge – as is the cost saving on fabrications to attach wires to the mast and on rigging screws to tension them.

The weight saving aloft meant that 600kg worth of ballast was saved down below, improving performance and righting moments.

Maggie B was succeeded by Farfarer – another Irens masterpiece featuring an unstayed rig with ‘fathead’ mainsails, with a stiff top batten doing the job of a mini gaff.

Matt Newlands of Swallow Boats also brought gaffs into the modern age; then went further.

“The gunter rig was what we offered, and still do, to customers who prefer having shorter spars making trailer-sailing easier for two reasons – less length to trail and easier to raise the mast. But in my opinion, it has been made almost obsolete by two developments. One is carbon fibre masts, and the other is fathead mainsails.

The mast on the BayRaider 20 is only 1m longer than the boat; the ‘fathead’ mainsail improves the lift and drag ratio and maintains sail area. Credit: David Harding

“Carbon masts on trailer-sailer sized boats are so light that it’s easy to raise a full-length mast if the base is hinged. The mast length problem is cured by using a ‘fathead’ mainsail, reducing mast length (on our boats by as much as 1m) while maintaining the same sail area and improving lift/drag ratio.

“On our popular BayRaider 20 this results in a mast that is only 1m longer than the boat. This new rig has many advantages over the gunter, chief among them being ease of reefing. I love quirky rigs, but it’s hard to beat the Bermuda mainsail setup especially with a fathead main on a carbon mast.”

All of which brings us to the Bermuda rigs on today’s production cruisers.

Many have moved on from the old RORC-inspired masthead sail plan. I asked rigging expert Nigel Theadon whether he preferred masthead or fractional sail boat rigs.

“Modern swept-back spreaders provide a ‘safer’ rig without the need for babystay or forward lowers to stabilise the mast’s middle sections… forestays are now higher up the mast than in years gone by, so the modern fractional rig is closer to a masthead than it once was,” he says.

“Fractional rigs are more attractive to look at and do not need expensive and powerful backstay adjusters. When buying a new boat, consider what you want from the rig. When buying a used boat, get a rigger to carry out a mast inspection: because hull surveyors rarely look above eye height.”

Whether you opt for a gaff- or Bermuda-rigged boat, this is sound advice.

Nigel was class champion of the X332; its well-balanced ultra-modern fractional rig works as well for a small cruising crew as it does for keen racers.

But don’t let this put you off a modern gaffer if you enjoy its quirks and character.

Our coastline would be a boring place if we all sailed the same sorts of boats.

Pros and cons of popular sail boat rig designs

Chinese junk rig.

Sail boat rigs: Chinese junk rig. Credit: Darren Bos

Pros: Easy to raise and reef. Easy to tack, gybe and sail single-handed. Easy to control in strong winds.

Cons: Not as close-winded as other rigs. Can be expensive and complicated to build/fit.

Sail boat rigs: Gaff rig. Credit: Neil Foster

Pros: Shorter spars make trailing easier. Modern carbon spars are light and easier to raise/lower. Efficient on a reach or run. Easy on the eye.

Cons: Not as close-winded as modern Bermuda rigs.

Masthead Bermuda rig

Sail boat rigs: Masthead Bermuda rig. Credit: Graham Snook

Pros: Close-winded. Large genoas can be reefed with modern roller furling gear. Modern self-tailing winches make short-tacking easier. Small mainsails easier to control.

Cons: Large genoas can be hard work for cruising.

Fractional Bermuda rig

Sail boat rigs: Fractional Bermuda rig. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Very close-winded with tight sheeting angles. Smaller jib is easier to tack, set and trim when shorthanded A large mainsail adds extra off-wind power

Cons: Swept spreaders can chafe mainsails when dead-running.

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Yacht Dreaming

What Are the Different Types of Yacht Rigs?

Yacht rigs come in many different shapes and sizes, each designed to offer a specific performance advantage. Whether you are looking to cross the finish line first or simply enjoy a leisurely cruise, understanding the different types of yacht rigs is an essential first step in selecting the boat that best meets your needs. By understanding the features of each type, you can make an informed decision on what type of yacht is best for you.

Types of Yacht Rigs

Finding the right type of yacht rig for your needs can be a challenging process. From sloops to ketchs, schooners to cutters, catboats to yawls, there are many types of yacht rigs to choose from. Each type of rig has its own advantages and disadvantages depending on the type of sailing you will be doing.

Sloops are the most popular type of yacht rig, offering a simple and straightforward sail plan. If you plan on doing longer trips, a ketch may be the best choice, offering more storage and greater sail area.

Schooners are a great option for sailing in open waters, with the added bonus of being able to tack more quickly. Cutters are well suited for cruising due to their generous sail area and their ability to take advantage of changing winds.

Catboats are great for leisurely sailing, as they are easy to handle and have a shallow draft. Yawls are perfect for short trips, offering excellent handling and manoeuvrability. When trying to decide which type of yacht rig is best for you, consider your sailing needs and choose the best option.

Sloops are a popular type of yacht rig because they’re relatively easy to sail, and their simple setup makes them one of the most efficient rigs around. The sloop rig consists of just one mast and a mainsail, which is the largest sail, and a jib, which is a smaller sail, both of which are mounted on the mast. The jib is supported by a boom and is typically fixed, meaning it does not move.

This type of rig is ideal for those who are new to sailing, as it is relatively straightforward to tack and trim sails. The sloop can be easily adapted for racing, making it a great option for sailors who want to compete.

Ketches are great yachts to consider if you’re looking for a boat to explore the open waters. These vessels feature two masts, the aft mast being slightly shorter than the main mast. This setup allows the boat to be easily maneuvered and controlled by even a single person.

It’s perfect for the sailor who wants to make the most of the sailing experience.

The ketch offers a wide range of comfort and convenience for anyone who enjoys spending time on the water. From the spacious decks to the flexible layout, the ketch has it all. It’s a great choice for those who like to travel, as it’s designed to take on stronger winds and handle rougher waters.

If you’re looking for a yacht that offers plenty of options, a ketch is definitely worth considering. It offers a great balance of power and speed, as well as plenty of space for entertaining and relaxing.

You’ll find that the two masts offer plenty of sail area, allowing you to pick up speed quickly and when you want it.

The ketch’s design gives it a much better angle of attack, making it less likely to heel over in strong winds and choppy waters. Ketches are popular for a reason. Their ability to handle rough waters, their flexibility, and their spacious decks make them ideal for any sailing enthusiast. So don’t wait, grab a ketch and get out on the open waters for an adventure of a lifetime!

A schooner is a type of rig with two or more masts and a variety of different sail configurations. The after-mast is the tallest, and the rig is designed to maximise the use of the wind while sailing. It is a great choice for long sails, as the multiple sails provide a greater surface area to catch the wind, making it easier to navigate long distances.

Schooners can be adapted to fit different wind conditions, making them a versatile and effective choice for a variety of different sailing trips. Schooners are also a great choice if you’re looking to get out on the open water and have some fun.

The multiple sails make it easy to manoeuvre and change direction quickly, and the large surface area makes it easier to get up to speed quickly. The array of sails can be adjusted to the wind conditions, allowing you to adjust and find the perfect balance for your travel. With the right setup, a schooner can be a great choice for experienced and beginning sailors alike.

A cutter is a great option for anyone looking for a robust, reliable yacht. It has a single mast with two or more headsails, and is considered to be one of the more versatile sailing vessels.

Cutters are easy to handle and can be sailed shorthanded, with a minimal crew. The rig allows for a wide range of sail plans, from full battened mainsail to gennaker. The cutter is a great choice for coastal cruising and racing, as it is light, agile, and fast. It is a great choice for anyone looking for a practical and maneuverable boat.

If you’re looking for a simple, easy-to-handle sailing yacht, consider a catboat. Catboats are primarily single-masted vessels, with a relatively shallow draft and little need for crew.

This makes them an ideal choice for novice sailors, as the single sail and shallow draft allows for easier maneuverability and fewer complications. They have plenty of room for storage and can typically accommodate up to four passengers. Catboats typically have a large, open cockpit and broad beam, which also makes them great for recreational sailing.

A Yawl is similar to a Ketch, but the primary difference is that it has two masts. The main mast is usually taller than the mizzen mast, and the mizzen mast is placed further aft. This type of yacht is ideal if you’re looking for a good balance between performance and ease of handling.

A Yawl is known for its stability, and its ability to maneuver tight spaces.

With its distinct look, a Yawl stands out from the crowd. Its rig is designed to provide good sailing performance and also be aesthetically pleasing.

Its two masts provide a good amount of sail area, allowing it to be faster than most other sailing vessels. Yawls are also great at sailing close-hauled, making them ideal for short-handed sailing. They are also great for sailing in strong winds and are very forgiving when it comes to handling.

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Sailboat rig types: sloop, cutter, ketch, yawl, schooner, cat.

Naval architects designate sailboat rig types by number and location of masts. The six designations are sloop, cutter, cat, ketch, yawl, and schooner. Although in defining and describing these six rigs I may use terminology associated with the sail plan, the rig type has nothing to do with the number of sails, their arrangement or location. Such terms that have no bearing on the rig type include headsail names such as jib, genoa, yankee; furling systems such as in-mast or in-boom; and sail parts such as foot, clew, tack, leach, and roach. Rig questions are one of the primary areas of interest among newcomers to sailing and studying the benefits of each type is a good way to learn about sailing. I will deal with the rigs from most popular to least.

Sloop The simplest and most popular rig today is the sloop. A sloop is defined as a yacht whose mast is somewhere between stations 3 and 4 in the 10 station model of a yacht. This definition places the mast with two thirds of the vessel aft and one third forward. The sloop is dominant on small and medium sized yachts and with the shift from large foretriangles (J-dimension in design parlance) to larger mains a solid majority on larger yachts as well. Simple sloop rigs with a single headsail point the highest because of the tighter maximum sheeting angle and therefore have the best windward performance of the rig types. They are the choice for one-design racing fleets and America’s cup challenges. The forestay can attached either at the masthead or some fraction below. These two types of sloops are described respectively as masthead or fractionally rigged. Fractionally rigged sloops where the forestay attaches below the top of the mast allow racers to easily control head and main sail shapes by tightening up the backstay and bending the mast.

Cutter A cutter has one mast like the sloop, and people rightfully confuse the two. A cutter is defined as a yachts whose mast is aft of station 4. Ascertaining whether the mast is aft or forward of station 4 (what if it is at station 4?) is difficult unless you have the design specifications. And even a mast located forward of station 4 with a long bowsprit may be more reasonably referred to as a cutter. The true different is the size of the foretriangle. As such while it might annoy Bob Perry and Jeff_h, most people just give up and call sloops with jibstays cutters. This arrangement is best for reaching or when heavy weather dictates a reefed main. In moderate or light air sailing, forget the inner staysail; it will just backwind the jib and reduce your pointing height.

Ketch The ketch rig is our first that has two masts. The main is usually stepped in location of a sloop rig, and some manufactures have used the same deck mold for both rig types. The mizzen, as the slightly shorter and further aft spar is called, makes the resulting sail plan incredibly flexible. A ketch rig comes into her own on reaching or downwind courses. In heavy weather owners love to sail under jib and jigger (jib and mizzen). Upwind the ketch suffers from backwinding of the mizzen by the main. You can add additional headsails to make a cutter-ketch.

Yawl The yawl is similar to the ketch rig and has the same trade-offs with respect to upwind and downwind performance. She features two masts just like on a ketch with the mizzen having less air draft and being further aft. In contrast and much like with the sloop vs. cutter definition, the yawl mizzen’s has much smaller sail plan. During the CCA era, naval architects defined yawl as having the mast forward or aft of the rudderpost, but in today’s world of hull shapes (much like with the sloop/cutter) that definition does not work. The true different is the height of the mizzen in proportion to the main mast. The yawl arrangement is a lovely, classic look that is rarely if ever seen on modern production yachts.

Schooner The schooner while totally unpractical has a romantic charm. Such a yacht features two masts of which the foremost is shorter than the mizzen (opposite of a ketch rig). This change has wide affects on performance and sail plan flexibility. The two masts provide a base to fly unusual canvas such as a mule (a triangular sail which spans between the two spars filling the space aft of the foremast’s mainsail). The helm is tricky to balance because apparent wind difference between the sails, and there is considerable backwinding upwind. Downwind you can put up quite a bit of canvas and build up speed.

Cat The cat rig is a single spar design like the sloop and cutter, but the mast location is definately forward of station 3 and maybe even station. You see this rig on small racing dinghies, lasers and the like. It is the simplest of rigs with no headsails and sometimes without even a boom but has little versatility. Freedom and Nonesuch yachts are famous for this rig type. A cat ketch variation with a mizzen mast is an underused rig which provides the sailplan flexibility a single masted cat boat lacks. These are great fun to sail.

Conclusion Sloop, cutter, ketch, yawl, schooner, and cat are the six rig types seen on yachts. The former three are widely more common than the latter three. Each one has unique strengths and weaknesses. The sloop is the best performing upwind while the cat is the simplest form. Getting to know the look and feel of these rig types will help you determine kind of sailing you enjoy most.

5 Replies to “Sailboat Rig Types: Sloop, Cutter, Ketch, Yawl, Schooner, Cat”

Thanks for this information. I’m doing my research on what type of sailboat I will eventually buy and was confused as to all the different configurations! This helped quite a bit.

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Being from the south, my distinction between a ketch and a yawl: if that mizzen falls over on a ketch, the boat will catch it; if it falls over on a yawl, it’s bye bye y’all.

I thought a Yawl had to have the mizzen mast behind the rudder and a ketch had the mizzen forward of the rudder.

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What are the main types of sail rigs for sailboats

Aug 24, 2022

less than a min

There are many sail rig types that can leave you amazed when looking at a boat , whether you are a guest or an owner. But before diving into the details of each one, let’s first define what a sail rig is for everyone that is new to boating.

A sail rig refers to the way the sails are placed on the mast. They define the configuration of the boat and include both the soft sail fabric and the mast hardware . The sail right type is often used to define what type of boat you are looking at.

It is important to know all the different sail rig types in order to enjoy sailing to the maximum.

Different sail rig types

Boats usually have one main big sail and one headsail . The main sail usually has a triangular shape and is fore-and-aft rigged . Their main purpose is to direct the boat and help you sail upwind or downwind . They place such a crucial role that for many boat lovers, a boat is only as good as its sails.

In addition, knowing when to trim the sails will improve the performance and efficiency of your boat and allow you to have a nicer voyage.

Here are the different types of sails: Jib (it has a triangular shape), Spinnaker (it has a balloon shape), Genoa (it overlaps the mainsail), Gennaker (a spinnaker and genoa combo), Code zero (like genoa for light air), Windseeker (it has a tall and narrow shape), Drifter (like genoa but made with lightweight fabric), Storm jib (a small jib), Trysail (small shape for bad weather).

And next, here is a list of the different sail rig types. The two main ones are the fore-and-aft rig and the square rigg .

The Fore-and-Aft Rig

The Fore-and-aft rig is divided into three types, the Bermuda rig , Gaff rig , and Lateen rig . They all define sailing rigs that go along the lines of the keel.

Bermuda Rig

This is a sail rig type that is most common for modern sailboats . In this case, the rig revolves around a triangular sail aft in the mast.

This sail rig type is mostly used on schooners and barquentines . The sail is four-cornered, therefore the head of the mainsail is directed by a gaff.

In this rig, a large triangular sail is placed on the yard . These boats are mostly used in the Indian Ocean and the Mediterranean sea.

Square Rigged

In a square rigged boa t, the mainsails are placed on a horizontal spar and they are vertical to the mast and the keel of the boat , all in all creating a squared shape. 

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Types of Sailboats by Type of Rig

16 December 2015

To have a better idea of which types of sailboats would best suit your needs, your Allied Yachting broker can advise you on the various options available on the market for new or second-hand vessels as well as new construction. In the meantime, here is a summarized guide to the different categories of sailing yachts by type of rig , whether they are monohull (single hull) or multihull , as they’re called in the Mediterranean.

Sailboats by rig type: hulls, masts

Single masted sailboat with monohull

The most common monohull modern sailing yacht is the sloop, which features one mast and two sails, thus sloops are single-masted sailboats. If they have just two sails — a foresail and a headsail — then they’re a Bermudan sloop, the purest type of sailboat. This simple configuration is very efficient for sailing into the wind.

Sailing sloops with moderate rigs are probably the most popular of all cruising sailboats. Just a single-masted sailboat with two sails (a foresail or headsail, and a mainsail) and the minimum of rigging and sail control lines they are relatively simple to operate and less expensive than rigs with multiple masts.

Sloops are adapted for cruising as well as racing, depending on the height and size of their rig.

The cutter sailing yacht is also a monohull similar to a sloop with a single mast and mainsail but generally carries the mast further aft to allow for a jib and staysail to be attached to the head stay and inner forestay, respectively. Once a common racing configuration, today it gives versatility to cruising boats, especially in allowing a small staysail to be flown from the inner stay in high winds.

Thus, a cutter-rig sailboat has an additional sail (the staysail) set on its own stay between the foresail and the headsail.

Cutters are mostly adapted for cruising, but capable of good performance while racing as well.

A ketch is a two-masted sailboat, the main-mast forward and a shorter mizzen mast aft.

But not all two-masted sailboats are ketches — they might be yawls.

A ketch may also carry a staysail, with or without a bowsprit, in which case it would be known as a cutter-rigged ketch.

Ketches are also monohulls, but there is a second shorter mast astern of the mainmast, but forward of the rudder post. The second sailboat mast is called the mizzen mast and its sail is called the mizzen sail.

Yawls have their origins as old-time sail fishing boats, where the small mizzen sail was trimmed to keep the vessel steady when hauling the nets.

Similar to a ketch, the difference being that the yawl has the mizzen mast positioned aft of the rudder post whereas the ketch has its mizzen mast ahead of the rudder post.

Thus, a yawl is also a monohull, similar to a ketch, with a shorter mizzen mast carried astern the rudderpost more for balancing the helm than propulsion.

Schooners are generally the largest monohull sailing yachts.

Monohull two masts sailing boat

A schooner has a mainmast taller than its foremast, distinguishing it from a ketch or a yawl. A schooner can have more than two masts, with the foremast always lower than the foremost main. Traditional topsail schooners have topmasts allowing triangular topsails sails to be flown above their gaff sails; many modern schooners are Bermuda rigged.

A schooner is a two-(or more) masted sailboat, in which the aft-most mast – the mainmast – is the same height or taller than the foremast. Many sailors agree that of all the different types of sailboats, a schooner under full sail is one of the most beautiful sights afloat.

Gaffed-rigged sailboats, or “gaffers”, have their mainsail supported by a spar – the “gaff” – which is hauled up the mast by a separate halyard. Often these types of sailboats are rigged with a topsail. The gaff rig is no longer seen on modern production yachts.

A catamaran (‘cat’ for short) is a multihull yacht consisting of two parallel hulls of equal size.

A catamaran is geometry-stabilized, that is, it derives its stability from its wide beam, rather than having a ballasted keel like a monohull. Being ballast-free and lighter than a monohull, a catamaran can have a very shallow draught. The two hulls will be much finer than a monohull’s, allowing reduced drag and faster speeds in some conditions, although the high wetted surface area is detrimental in lower wind speeds, but allows much more accommodations, living and entertaining space in stability and comfort.

Two parallel hulls sailing catamaran

The speed and stability of these catamarans have made them a popular pleasure craft in Europe, most high-quality catamarans are built in France, but careful since their wide beams aren’t easy (or cheap) to berth in the French Riviera.

Racing catamarans technology has made them today’s leading racing sailboats of the world, like in the latest editions of America’s cup or other renowned transoceanic races.

Please surf through our website listings of sailing catamarans .

OTHER MULTIHULLS

Even harder to berth in the Mediterranean, and most commonly designed for around-the-globe racing rather than cruising, the trimarans have also been gaining some popularity in the western hemisphere, especially by naval designers with futuristic projects.

A trimaran is a multihull boat that comprises a main hull and two smaller outrigger hulls (or ‘floats’) which are attached to the main hull with lateral beams.

MOTORSAILER

A motorsailer or “motorsailor”, is a type of sailing vessel, typically a pleasure yacht, that derives propulsion from its sails and engine(s) in equal measure.

While the sailing yacht appeals primarily to the purist sailing enthusiast, the motorsailer is more suited for long-distance cruising, as a home for ‘live-aboard’ yachtsmen. The special features of the motorsailer (large engine, smaller sails, etc.) mean that, while it may not be the fastest boat under sail, the vessel is easily handled by a small crew. As such, it can be ideal for retired people who might not be entirely physically able to handle large sail areas. In heavy weather, the motorsailer’s large engine allows it to punch into a headwind when necessary to make landfall, without endless tacking to windward.

The Turkish word gulet is a loanword from the French goélette, meaning ‘schooner’.

A gulet is a traditional design of a two-masted (more common) or even three-masted wooden sailing vessel from the southwestern coast of Turkey, particularly built in the coastal towns of Bodrum and Marmaris; although similar vessels can be found all around the eastern Mediterranean. For considerations of crew economy, Diesel power is commonly used on these vessels, similar to a motorsailer. Today, this type of vessel, varying in size from 14 to 45 meters, is very popular and affordable for tourist charters in Turkey, the Aegean, Greece and up to Croatia in the Adriatic.

Please surf through our website listings of cruising sailing yachts by type of rig.

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Popular Types of Yacht

Explore the diverse types of yachts with our comprehensive guide. Learn about various designs, construction materials, hull and keel configurations, rigging options, and specific yacht categories like day sailers, trailer yachts, sports boats, cruising yachts, and multihulls. Perfect for boating enthusiasts and prospective yacht owners.

Construction types

Fibre-reinforced plastic, aluminium or steel, ferro-cement, hull/keel configurations, trailer/sailer, trailer yacht, sports boats, second-hand yachts, pocket cruiser racing yachts, mid-sized cruising yachts 27-50 ft (8,3-15,2 m), motor sailers.

Almost certainly, the right boat is out there waiting for you. Selecting her will involve emotional and practical considerations. I yearn to own a Morgan sports car but also need a vehicle to carry young grandchildren, as well as a tool chest, down to the boat yard during winter months, and to be able to throw a lawnmower in the back. A two-seater cannot cope with any of that. Buying a yacht requires the same practical thought processes.

Racing, they say, improves the breed, and this is certainly the case with yacht design, which in five decades, has progressed from traditional narrow, heavy displacement hulls with integral keel and rudder profiles to much more efficient wide beam, light displacement forms with all manner of keel and rudder configurations.

The greater volume within modern designs, developed to increase form stability and improve performance off the wind, has the practical benefit for cruising in providing more volume below, allowing for bigger berths, a fully fitted galley and heads (toilet), even in the most modestly sized yachts.

There has been a marked change in hull profiles too. The graceful raked bows that mark out yachts from the 1950s to 1980s have given way to plumb bows and sterns, drawn to extend waterline length and thus speed and, as a by-product, extend internal volume.

There is a financial advantage too, for by minimising bow and stern overhangs, berthing fees are proportionally less.

Fibre-reinforced plastic yachts are by far the most popular, being lighter and Operation and Maintenance of the Your Own Sailboat relatively low maintenance . They are long lasting and hold their value well. Indeed, many of the early GRP yachts built during the 1960s are still going strong and commanding good prices in the brokerage columns. Later models are often moulded using more exotic materials to the simple chopped strand glass mat and incorporate Kevlar and even carbon fibre to provide greater strength without increasing overall weight.

When purchasing second hand, look for stress cracks around the shroud plates, mast slot and corners within the moulding. Star crazing within the gel coat around the hull and deck is a clue to minor impact damage.

Check also for signs of osmosis. This water penetration through the outer gel coat manifests itself as small blisters below the waterline. This is expensive to repair, requiring the gel coat to be planed off, the hull dried, and the affected areas re-coated with an epoxy-based resin.

Wooden yachts have more character but require more work. If you don’t enjoy maintenance as much as sailing, steer clear of these.

If you are certain about buying a classic, then a survey is essential. Rot is the most prevalent enemy and will manifest itself anywhere where rain water gets trapped and soaks into the wood.

Vessels moored in salt water fare much better than those kept on a lake or river, but marinas, even those opening on to the sea, are often fed by fresh water streams which results in a brackish water environment, and is no kinder to wood than fresh water.

Wood, Aluminum and John Boats Wooden boats require regular maintenance to keep on top of a deteriorating atmosphere; wood should never be allowed to peel or go bare, and requires annual painting. Wooden boats are a labour of love. Be sure they are for you before you invest.

Metal fabricated hulls are strong but require regular painting to minimise corrosion. They can also suffer from condensation in winter months unless they are well insulated. When buying second-hand, a survey is imperative.

Check in particular for signs of electrolytic corrosion between hull plating and bronze fittings and stern gear.

Ferro-cement yachts are often amateur constructed. They are, however, relatively easy to construct by plastering concrete over a wire frame and, providing the wire remains encased, and not allowed to rust, these hulls can be very durable.

They have a low second-hand value.

Bermudan masthead sloop

Most common cruising rig with triangular mainsail and full height overlapping genoa.

Fractional rig

Modern alternative to the masthead rig.

Pros : The smaller jib makes for easier sail handling. The mainsail is often fully battened and relies on a simple slab reefing system to lessen area.

Cons : Long boom can drag in water when overpressed making it difficult to spill wind.

Similar to the masthead rig but with a staysail set as an intermediate sail between the genoa and mainsail.

Pros : More efficient than the standard sloop when sailing just off the wind.

Cons : Not as close-winded as the sloop rig.

Traditional sail plan with a quadrilateral mainsail supported at the top by a gaff spar.

Pros : Simple to hoist and reef, and has a lower centre of pressure than a sloop rig.

Cons : Not as efficient as the sloop rig, and has more weight aloft.

Fully-battened mainsail favoured by some for short-handed sailing because of its ease of reefing.

Pros : Simple to reef.

Cons : Not as efficient as a sloop rig.

Two-masted rig with the mizzen mast set ahead of the rudder post.

Pros : Popular for long distance cruising because the individual sails are smaller and thus easier to handle.

Cons : Greater expense.

Cat/Freedom rig

A simple rig popular in the USA with a large mainsail set on an unstayed mast, close to the bow. The wishbone boom is similar to those used on sailboards.

Pros : Inexpensive and simple to reef.

Two masted rig with the mizzen mast set behind the rudder.

Pros : The mizzen sail is smaller than on a ketch and thus easier to handle.

Cons : Like the ketch, greater expense and not as efficient as a fractional rig.

A trailer/sailer is a large dinghy-styled day sailer, or small yacht (with a retractable keel) that can be towed behind the family car. Their advantage lies in being able to explore shallow cruising grounds and be beached safely when the tide recedes.

There is a financial benefit too because they can be stored on their trailer at home rather than in a marina or on a mooring. Most trailer/sailers have the facility to mount Boat Outboard Motors an outboard motor .

The Drascombe Drifter 22 is the largest in the traditionally lined Drascombe trailer/sailer range. She is equipped with twin drop keels and a lifting rudder to give clear space within the cockpit and cabin, and shallow draft. She has a simple loose footed gunter yawl rig, and the main mast is raised and lowered while the boat is on its trailer, using the trailer winch to take the strain out of the process.

Accommodation includes two single berths that can convert into a double, together with cooking and toilet facilities. An optional cockpit tent offers further accommodation for children.

Day sailers, like the 18 ft 9 in (5,7 m ) Drascombe Lugger with its traditional gaff rig, mizzen sail and retracting steel centreplate, can be configured for family cruising.

This fibreglass design is easy to launch and recover from a trailer, has a deep cockpit, and their distinctive tan coloured sails are boomless, therefore avoiding possible head injury from a gybing boom.

Alternatively, sports boats like the 20 ft 2 in (6,1 m ) Laser SB3 with its large sail area and asymmetric spinnaker are not only exciting to sail but offer competitive class racing throughout the world.

This Use of Fiberglass in Boat Construction fibreglass design has a lifting keel rather like a daggerboard in a dinghy, in order for it to be launched from a slipway, and is lowered and raised once the boat is in deeper water using a removable crane (opposite).

The boat packs down on to a two-wheel trailer and is light enough to be towed by a family car.

The latest swing-cradle trailers remove the need to immerse the wheels during launching and recovery which extend bearing and brake life considerably.

These are small yachts with fixed or lifting keels designed for cruising and racing on inshore and coastal waters.

Ranging in size from 17-24 ft (5,2-7,3 m ) they have a ballast ratio of around 30 % (percentage of keel weight to total weight of yacht) and offer basic accommodation, easy transportation and launching.

Examples featured in this book include the J24 (7,3 m ) (below), the 20 ft 2 in (6,1 m ) Beneteau First 20,7 , the 21 ft 9 in (6,6 m ) Jeanneau Sun 2000 , and for the more traditionally minded, the Drascombe Drifter 22 which can accommodate a family of three or four.

Towing regulations In many countries stipulate that the dry weight of the towing vehicle must, at a minimum, equal the weight of the loaded trailer, which must also be fitted with brakes. Within the European Union, brakes are not required on fully loaded trailers below 750 kg and where the vehicle is at least twice the weight of the tow. From October 2012, all trailers used within the EU must have side as well as tail lights, requiring the car to be wired up with a 13- pin plug rather than the old 7- pin system. Some countries also restrict the driving age to those over 21 and you may be required to pass an additional driving test.

TIP: before buying a boat, check that your vehicle meets the legal restrictions to tow the weight of the boat and its trailer. The car handbook will list the maximum safe towing weight.

Typically 20-30 ft (6-8 m ) with a basic cabin, these high performance yachts can still be towed behind a large vehicle, but invariably require a crane to launch and recover them.

Evergreen designs like the 24 ft (7,3 m ) J24 , carry a traditional spinnaker, but more recent designs like the Melges 24 , the 26 ft 3 in (8 m ) and J80 are all equipped with masthead asymmetric gennakers flown from the end of retractable bowsprits.

All are racing oriented sports boats with the emphasis on performance, and have very basic interiors.

This popular French trailer/sailer offers hassle-free preparation, easy transportation, good stability and speed, a large comfortable cockpit and creative use of interior space.

This evergreen trailer/sailer is the baby within the Beneteau range. She is equipped with twin rudders and has recently undergone an interior re-design to provide twin quarter berths and double berth forward.

Pre-owned yachts offer a very cost-effective entry to sailing. Most are moulded from glass reinforced plastic ( GRP ) and these have been a popular choice since the first of this kind were built in the late 1960s and 70s. It is quite possible to buy a serviceable second-hand boat for between £4 000 and £10 000.

Compared to the latest offerings, these boats are quite basic in their appearance, especially below decks, so it is a question of finding an example that has benefitted from years of tender loving care. Yachts, especially those from a well-respected builder, hold their value remarkably well and you can expect to recover your initial investment, just as previous owners have done. Westerly was a leading brand both in the UK and America during the 1970s and their boats are ideal examples of production yachts from that era.

See Guidance to buying second-hand (page 72****). 398 of these popular 22 ft (6,7 m ) fin-keeled Westerly Cirrus yachts were built between 1968 and 1972. The design packed in two berths forward, a quarter berth under the port cockpit seat, a small dinette on the starboard side that folds down into another berth, opposite the galley area. There is also a separate toilet compartment squeezed in between the forward and main cabins. The John Butler design carries 233 sq ft (21,6 sq m ) of sail on a fractional rig, together with optional spinnaker measuring 112 sq ft (10,51 sq m ). She is also fitted with Advantages of the Inboard Engines an inboard engine .

The Westerly Cirrus , a trend-setting pocket cruiser developed in the late 1960s that still provides excellent value on the second-hand market.

The Westerly Centaur is one of the most popular British built yachts, with some 2 500 launched between 1969 and 1984. A centre-cockpit version was also produced called the Chieftain. While most were sold with a sloop rig, a few yachts were equipped with ketch rigs.

She was one of the first mass-produced yachts to have her underwater shape developed in a test tank, which explains why this bilge keeler sails so well. The Centaur was fitted out with either a five or six berth layout and had a Volvo inboard engine.

Typically 20-26 ft (6,1-8 m ) with a cabin and either lifting, fixed or bilge keels, these small yachts can still be towed behind a large car, but invariably require a crane to launch and recover them.

Other small yachts like the 25 ft 11 in (7,9 m ) Beneteau First 25,7 featured here, are more cruiser/racer orientated with better headroom and a full interior that includes a galley, table, head (toilet) and navigation table, together with 4-5 berths counting the seating in the main cabin.

27 ft (8,3 m ) is by most reckoning, the minimum practical size of yacht for extended cruising and sailing abroad, though of course there are instances where hardy people have crossed oceans in smaller.

The smallest to date is the 5 ft 4 i (1,6 m ) Father’s Day in which American Hugo Vihlen sailed from Newfoundland to England in 1993 but you can bet creature comforts were rather less than in a prisoner of war camp sweat box!

There is an old saying that yacht length (in ft) should measure the same as your age. The longer the boat, the smoother the ride, so when you turn 50, you should be looking at a 50 footer (15,2 m ) yacht. Bank balances don’t always allow for that, but if you are planning to do extended cruising, don’t just think about the number of berths, but the stowage space and recreational area available. For anything more than a weekend, a 27 ft (8,3 m ) yacht becomes pretty cramped with more than two on board.

32-38 ft (9,7-11,6 m ) is the comfortable optimum for 4 people sleeping at opposite ends of the boat while sharing the communal area amidships, and 46-50 ft (14-15,2 m ) is really what is needed for six people to live in harmony for any length of time. If your sailing adventures are going to be limited to coastal cruising with overnight stops, then you can fill every berth on board.

Kids in particular love a scrum and all will happily nest away in the smallest of spaces playing games or watching videos. And, providing adults can look forward to getting ashore to a shower block, they will be happy too.

The Hunter Channel 31 , like others within the Hunter range, is available with either fin or twin bilge keel options. Her 3-cabin layout provides 6 berths , a well appointed galley and large heads. Her inset transom allows easy access onboard from a dinghy and doubles as a swim platform.

Read also: Anatomy of a Boat Cost and Recommendations for a Profitable Sale

This yacht has a self-tacking jib and all lines lead back to the cockpit. Like other Hunter yachts, the Channel 31 is available fully fitted or as bare mouldings ready for home completion.

The Hunter Channel 31 offers a lively performance and her bright and airy 3-cabin layout, incorporating a double berth under the cockpit, sleeps six in some comfort.

The Hallberg-Rassy 310 is the latest in a long line of introductory designs to this famous Swedish range of yachts. More than 2 000 have been built over the years, and this latest Germán Frers design incorporates the very best elements from this experience.

The new model is wider than her predecessor giving greater room below, and with her short overlap jib and push button winches and furling gear, she is easy to sail with just one or two people. A Code Zero or gennaker can be flown between the masthead and a removable bowsprit. She also carries the trademark Hallberg-Rassy windscreen, integrated rubbing strake and a lead keel.

The interior is bright and roomy for her size, with four opening skylights and nine port lights providing light and ventilation. The 2 m L -shape sofa and the straight settee convert into berths. The galley is set to one side away from the main thoroughfare and is fitted with double sinks and a fridge with a basket to organise small items. The counter top is solid PlexiCor composite stone.

The generous sized cabins fore and aft have double berths, and plenty of stowage space. The aft cabin also has vanity and hanging locker. The toilet compartment is well ventilated and the counter top and sink match the kitchen work top.

The 310 is very close winded (33°) and will clip along at 11 knots + with gennaker set on a broad reach in 20 knots of wind. She is powered by a 22 hp diesel engine and has a tank range of almost 400 miles .

This Jeanneau built one-design class racer/cruiser design was named European Yacht of the Year in 2008 and is moulded using an automated vacuum infusion process to ensure very tight weight and shape tolerances. The yacht has a high level of equipment as standard, a Yanmar 15 hp diesel inboard engine and a well furnished interior. The class offers close one-design racing, but the design also has a competitive rating for handicap racing.

The Sunfast 3200 is a low tolerence one-design with a favourable rating for handicap racing.

The First 30 combines performance with a high level of comfort below. The 3-cabin layout provides double berths forward and beneath the cockpit, together with a large communal cabin amidships with galley and nav station. There is a separate toilet compartment opposite the aft cabin.

The design has a slender T -shaped bulb keel to provide a low centre of gravity and the rig is supported by swept-back spreaders to avoid the necessity for a back stay.

The Sun Odyssey 379 is a performance cruiser with a difference, offering not just push-button sailing but joy-stick manoeuvring under power. The French design is one of the first to take advantage of the ZF 360° pivoting sail drive, which takes all the pain out of berthing in a tight spot.

The joystick transmits the commands to a control box, which uses the autopilot to lock the helm. Then, a simple movement of the joystick controls the orientation and the thrust of the pod, as well as the bow thruster to move the boat backwards, forwards or sideways.

The interior design marries solid wood, stainless steel and light fabrics to provide a warm feeling. The galley has numerous storage compartments, a high-capacity fridge, and there is large saloon table, a hanging locker in the saloon and easy conversion of seating areas to berths.

The design is also available with three keel options, a standard wing keel, a shoal keel and a swing keel which varies draft between 3 ft 7 in and 7 ft 4 in (11-2,2 m ).

The Southerly 42 RST combines a fast, modern hull for good performance, with stability and comfort for blue water cruising. The modern plumb stem maximises waterline length and her broad transom provides volume aft, for performance and interior space.

Deck styling and a sociable cockpit layout with twin helm positions, makes this a comfortable and easy to sail blue water cruising yacht.

All Southerly yachts are equipped with an hydraulic swing keel (see page 16***) which has the versatility of having a deep aerofoil-shaped keel for performance, the ability to navigate in very shallow waters and take to the ground safely.

Below decks, the large raised saloon seating area with its all-round views, provides a focal point for comfortable dining whilst at anchor, and the swing keel mechanism remains unobtrusive, hidden within the dinette seating. The well equipped galley and nav station are both positioned to starboard of the central companionway.

A two cabin layout is standard with a large double aft cabin, enjoying a centreline berth and en-suite facilities. A three cabin layout is also available. The Southerly has a self tacking jib on a roller furler and all leads and sheets run “unseen” through deck conduit back to the cockpit to provide simple push-button control.

The Oyster 46 is a true ocean-going cruiser/racing yacht with a large, sheltered centre cockpit. She has good headroom throughout her 3-cabin accommodation layout, which allows six to sleep in comfort, without using the saloon. The owner enjoys en-suite facilities, whilst the forward two cabins share a comfortable heads and shower.

This is the smallest in the Oyster range which progresses up to their 125 ft (38,1 m ) flagship. The 46 is available with either a standard fin or shoal draft keel and standard alloy cruising rig or lightweight carbon fibre spars.

The Oceanis 50 is available with the option of three or four cabin layouts either with the master suite forward to minimise disturbance when moored stern-to and two double cabins beneath the cockpit, or set aft to provide two really spacious double cabins with en-suite facilities.

By converting the dinette and utilising the settee in the saloon, it is possible to sleep 13 onboard. She is finished to a very high specification and was voted “Yacht of the Year” in the under 100 ft (30,4 m ) category when launched in 2007.

The Bavaria Cruiser 50 is a great example of German precision boatbuilding. Manufactured in one of Europe’s most modern facilities, everything about Bavaria yachts scream form and function. The Cruiser 50 is available in either a 3, 4 or a 5 cabin layout with plenty of light shining through a large array of deck hatches.

Common to all is the owner’s suite in the bow area, furthest away from a noisy dockside. Her 18 ft 7 in (4,7 m ) beam makes for a cavernous interior which can be fitted out in a wide variety of woods and fabrics.

Her large cockpit with its twin wheel steering and dinette table opens up at the transom to provide a large boarding platform.

Cruising multihulls, generally catamarans, have several advantages over monohulls. These include greater speed when sailing off the wind, a large foredeck for sunbathing and far greater volume below decks. This invariably takes the form of a wide communal cabin across the bridge deck coupled with private sleeping quarters, galley and heads within the two hulls.

Their greatest attribute in many eyes, however, is the fact that multihulls don’t heel over like monohulls, but are susceptible to weight limitations. A full compliment of crew and their attendant gear invariably saps their speed advantage.

Since multihulls rely on their form for stability rather than weighty keels, most are fitted with retractable daggerboards which allows them to be beached safely and sit on a drying mooring. Trimarans (3 hulls) carry more form stability than a twin hulled catamaran, but have less volume below decks.

Onboard the Lagoon 400 , the large bridge deck with its panoramic views and sliding glass door opening out to the cockpit, makes this a great social area onboard. The galley is well sited against the cockpit bulkhead to serve both areas. The hulls are devoted to sleeping areas with en-suite facilities. The master suite situated in the starboard hull is accessed via a private dressing room.

The greatest attractions of catamarans are the plentiful sunbathing areas, large alfresco cockpits and bathing platforms at the stern of each hull.

Trimarans offer a better performance than a catamaran, mainly because their form stability allows them to be pushed harder than a cat, without fear of capsize. On the minus side, they have less interior volume, and since they draw very little draft as well, living space within the main hull is invariably smaller to monohulls of equivalent length.

But if performance is a prerequisite, then there is nothing to beat modern trimarans, and designers have even beaten the problems of their extreme beam and the extra mooring fees this incurs at most marinas, by developing folding outriggers that allow boats of 30 ft + length to be towed on a trailer.

This folding concept has been developed successfully by companies in America, Denmark and New Zealand. Corsair, (now built in Vietnam) and Farrier Marine in New Zealand, share the same vertical tilting wing mechanism that fold the outriggers in on their side. On the Danish built Dragonfly trimarans, the beams are hinged in a horizontal plane and fold in towards the hull in the same attitude as when extended for sailing.

These trimarans share light displacement (2,69 tonnes in sailing trim for the 24 ft Corsair 750 ) and shallow draft of less than 1 ft (0,3 m ) for even the 38 ft Dragonfly 1200 Ocean Cruiser .

They also offer a remarkable performance, able to make 10 knots upwind in little more than 12 knots of breeze, and a scintillating 20 knots + when sailing off the wind.

This, the largest of the folding trimaran types, takes up no more space in the marina than similar sized monohulls, yet has seven berths spread between three cabins and can seat eight in her saloon.

These are at the traditional end of the market, and as their name implies, are half motor, half sailboat. These designs, whose genre can be traced back to early Danish trawler yachts, trade on their study, sea kindly, long keeled hull shape, a powerful engine, well protected deck and aft cockpit, and enclosed wheelhouse. They look safe, they feel safe and they are safe.

Motor sailers are at the heavier end of the displacement scale and none will win races, but given a soldier’s breeze – force 3-5 – they perform well enough under sail.

In lesser winds, or indeed stronger conditions, their powerful engines come into play, and with the mizzen set as a steadying sail, their enclosed environment make them go-anywhere boats.

The most popular are the Fisher range from 30-46 ft (9,1-14 m ) now built in the UK by Northshore Yachts , and the Finnish built Nauticat whose models range from 34-44 ft (10,3-13,4 m ).

There are also a large number of self-built models on the secondhand market, some constructed in steel, and others from bare mouldings produced by Colvic Craft for home completion.

First introduced in 1973, the Fisher 37 is the epitome of a reliable, safe, and sturdy motorsailer. Accommodation is split between a social wheelhouse, main saloon, and double cabins fore and aft.

The Nauticat 441 is another popular 6 berth motorsailer, with a large centre wheelhouse which doubles as a large deck saloon, together with an open bridge deck aft.

• Cruising World, Subscription Service Dept., P. O. Box 953, Farmingdale, NY 11737.
• Motor Boating & Sailing, P. O. Box 10075, Des Moines, IA 50350.
• Multi-hulls, 421 Hancock St., N. Quincy, MA 02171-9981.
• Nautical Quarterly, 373 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016.
• Sail Magazine, P. O. Box 10210, Des Moines, IA 50336.
• Sailing, P. O. Box 248, Port Washington, WI 53704.
• Small Boat Journal, P. O. Box 400, Bennington, VT 05201.
• Soundings, Soundings Publications, Inc., Pratt Street, Essex, CT 06426.
• The Practical Sailor, Subscription Dept., P. O. Box 971, Farmingdale, NY 11737.
• Wooden Boat, Subscription Dept., P. O. Box 956, Farming-dale, NY 11737.
• Yacht Racing/Cruising, North American Building, 401 North Broad Street, Philadelphia, PA 19108.
• Yachting, P. O. Box 2704, Boulder, CO 80321.
• Beiser, Arthur. The Proper Yacht, 2nd ed. Camden, Maine: International Publishing Co., 1978.
• Chapman, Charles F. Piloting, Seamanship and Small Boat Handling, 56th ed. New York: Hearst Marine Books, 1983.
• Coles, Adlard. Heavy Weather Sailing, 3rd rev. ed. Clinton Corners, N.Y.: John De Graff, Inc., 1981.
• Pardey, Lin and Larry. Cruising in Seraffyn and Seraffyn’s Mediterranean Adventure (W. W. Norton, 1981).
• Roth, Hal. After 50 000 Miles (W. W. Norton, 1977) and Two Against Cape Horn (W. W. Norton, 1968).
• Royce, Patrick M. Royce’s Sailing Illustrated, 8th ed. Ventura, Calif.: Western Marine Enterprises, Inc., 1979.
• Kinney, Francis S. Skene’s Elements of Yacht Design, 8th ed. New York: Dodd, Mead, 1981.
• Street, Donald M., Jr. The Ocean Sailing Yacht, Vols. I and II. New York: W. W. Norton, 1973, 1978.

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Types of Sailboats: Classification Guide

Sailboats can be divided into three basic types based on their hulls (catamaran, monohull or multihull) , their keel and their rigging, and then further subdivided from there. The result is that there are actually well over a dozen different kinds of sailboats out there.

Sailboat Hull Types

There are three main hull types that you’ll find in sailboats.

• Monohull: This is what most people think of when they think of a sail boat or any boat at all, really. A monohull sailboat has a single hulled structure that gives a boat that traditional boat shape we all instantly recognize. These are far and away the most common hull type for sailboats because they’re some of the oldest, they’re cheaper to produce, and they are fairly easy to maintain compared to the other options. You can do a lot more with the rigger in monohull sailboats and any sailing vessel with multiple masts is invariably going to be a monohull one. The downside of the monohull compared to the others is that they lack the stability.
• Catamaran: The second hull type you’ll find in sailboats is the catamaran . While technically a multihull vessel, they feature two hulls that are located on either side of the boat connected by a deck. Because it’s just the two, they get called catamarans rather than multihull which generally refers to three. Catamarans had been used by ancient peoples for years but never really caught on with “modern” boating for quite a long time. Now that we have fiberglass hulls and other advances, catamarans are much more commonplace than they were a  hundred years ago. Catamarans offer great speed and stability but don’t have as much cabin space as a monohull.
• Trimaran/Multihull : This hull style features three hulls in a similar style to the catamaran with the addition of that third center hull. From the side you wouldn’t be able to tell a catamarans from trimaran sailboats. These boats are even faster and more stable than a catamaran and, by extension, a monohull. They have a very low center of gravity and a large beam. Space is still a drawback but the third hull increases room overall. There are also vessels with even more hulls, but they are exceedingly rare and also pretty expensive.

Sailboat Keel Types

Heading below the hull now and we’ll find the keel, which is what gives your sailboat added stability in the water. While multihull boats find stability in the additional hulls, a monohull boat will get stability from its keel. Though it’s nearly impossible to flip or capsize a trimaran, if it does happen it’s staying flipped or capsized. However, the keel on a monohull boat makes it even harder to flip because of the physics of resistance in the water. That isn’t to say a monohulled boat with a keel is unsinkable, quite the opposite, but you’re just not going to flip one upside down without a real fight. There are six main keel types you’ll find in sailboats.

• Bilge Keel: These are dual keels that can be like fin keels or even full keels extending the length of the vessel. They extend from the sides and can prevent the boat from rolling. They need to be symmetrical on both sides of the boat to work.
• Bulb Kee l: These are a kind of fin keel but they carry ballast in them. That allows them to have a little more stability. They operate like a hydrofoil
• Centerboard Keel: This type of keel actually pivots and can be changed depending on the depth of the water.
• Daggerboard Keel : Another kind of centerboard keel but the daggerboard can actually be pulled up into the hull. This allows you to alter its position for an increase or decrease in speed or stability as needed.
• Fin Kee l: If you’re into racing you’ll probably have a fin keel. They are thin but extend deep below the sailboat. This makes them great for speed but not really ideal for a comfortable ride. You wouldn’t want to be day sailing for fun and relaxation with a fin keel.
• Full Keel: This is the most common type of keel and it spans the entire length of the vessel. There will likely be a rudder built into the keel as well.
• Wing Keel : This is a variant on the fin keel. Wing keels have a small wing at the tip to allow better directional stability by reducing cross flow.

Sailboat Mast Configuration

The mast of the sailboat is obviously that large pole onto which sails are rigged. Depending on your boat type you may have one mast, two masts, or more masts. How these masts are configured is where you can start distinguishing sailboat types you may recognize by name.  These include:

Sloop: This is arguably the most popular type of sailboat mast type. A sloop has a single mast and two sails – the headsail and the mainsail. Being a single masted sailboat makes them easy to identify. These are probably the easiest to learn how to rig and how to sail. It’s versatile enough for cruising and for racing. Commonly these a gaff rig or a Bermuda rig. Another kind of sloop rig is the fractional rig sloop in which you can find one of the sails below the top of the mast.

Schooner: These can have multiple masts, not just two. The largest sailing vessels you’re likely to see, either in the present or in images from history, were schooners. Giant ships with six masts each bearing over 10 sails were schooners. An important detail is that the first mast on a schooner will always be shorter than the others. They are usually gaff-rigged

Cutter: This type of sailboat is very similar to the sloop and has a centrally located mast supporting three sails. Two headsails, the second called a staysail, is what distinguishes it most easily from the sloop. The rigging makes a cutter a bit harder to manage than a sloop.

Ketch : A ketch is a lot like a schooner but the two masts are arranged differently. On a ketch, the main mast is taller than the aft mast which is called the mizzen mast. The mizzen sail naturally is on the mizzen mast with the mizzen mast positioned aft.

Catboat : Also called a cat, a catboat has a single mast and a large, single gaff sail. The boats are usually short, stout boats that aren’t built for speed or for open seas. Best to be used in coastal waters

Yawl: This vessel is nearly identical to the ketch with one main difference. In a yawl, the helm is forward of the mizzen mast, while that is not the case in a ketch.

Other Types of Sailboats

Now that we have the basic configurations out of the way, let’s look at some of the more specific types of sailboats you may find at sea. In some cases you’ll see that these terms are not entirely specific and one term may actually apply to multiple kinds of sail boats in much the same way that something like SUV can describe multiple different vehicles that are similar but not all the same.

Sailing Dinghies

Like any dinghy, a sailing dinghy is going to be a small vessel. Typically made to accommodate just one or two people, they are under 15 feet and the smallest of which are often used by children. Optimist dinghies are raced professionally and must meet certain requirements to be officially registered as true Optimist boats. If you’re totally new to sailing, a sailing dinghy might be a good place to learn the ropes.

Daysailer generally refers to any sailboat that is not intended to either race other boats or keep you out on the water for an overnight stay. As such, it can cover a lot of ground. Typically, a daysailer will probably be between 14 feet and 20 feet. Usually you won’t get more than 4 people on board and there will be room for storing gear but not a sleeping berth. These are great beginner sailboats.

Pocket Cruisers

Like a daysailer, a pocket cruiser is more of a general label for boats rather than a specific kind. In this case, any sailboat under 30 feet could technically be considered a pocket cruiser. Basically it should be trailerable and used for either cruising or racing. They may contain a small cabin or berth. They could be outfitted for long offshore trips.

Trailer Sailer

Very similar to a pocket cruiser, a trailer sailer is a smaller vessel but still larger than a sailing dinghy. There is clear overlap between trailer sailers, daysailers, and pocket cruisers and the same name could technically be used for many different boats. The defining characteristic of a trailer sailer is that it can easily be transported by trailer behind your tow vehicle. Unlike a sailing dinghy, a trailer sailer would likely have a retractable keep like a centerboard or daggerboard.

Racing Sailboats

These boats can be very large, anywhere from 20 feet to over 70 feet, and they are designed to be light and fast on the water. Larger racing sailboats required a skilled crew to operate. These have keels intended to increase speed and even laminate sales to improve performance. Smaller racing boats can be manned by just one or two people. They don’t offer a lot of creature comforts and aren’t meant for relaxing trips at sea.

Beach Catamarans

Beach cats get their name from the fact they’re designed to be beached and can be launched again from the beach if you so desire. They are usually under 25 feet and not meant for extending sailing offshore, rather they are designed for daysailing. They are very agile and fast and take a good foundation of knowledge to control properly.

Cruising Catamarans

This is the larger style of catamaran designed for more serious boating. Like any catamaran they have a shallow draft but these can be between 25 feet and up to more than 50 feet. They’re designed for extended cruising offshore.

Cruising Sailboats

Boats like schooners quality as a cruising boat and they are typically at least 16 feet in length but may get well over 50 feet as well. Cruising sailboats include cabins for extended stays offshore and, if the boat is large enough, will likely have a fairly large living space below deck which includes a galley and a head in addition to sleeping berths. These are often called liveaboard sailboats .

Cruisers are often monohull but can just as easily be multihull. When properly outfitted they can be used for long, extended stays at sea that last weeks or more. Depending on rigging a cruising sailboat could easily be a sloop, a schooner, a cutter, a ketch or even a superyacht.

Racing Cruisers

This is essentially a hybrid of the cruising sailboat and the racing sailboat. It’s built for more speed than a cruiser but it will have better accommodations than a racing sailboat to allow for stays at sea.  The end result is a lighter cruiser ideal for a few days at sea that can get some good speed.

Bluewater Cruising Boats

These are basically the next step up from a cruising sailboat. A bluewater cruiser is meant to sail across oceans, which is where the bluewater part of the name comes from. These are large sailboats and are best only sailed by skilled sailors. They can be outfitted for very long stays at sea and are able to handle rough weather better than smaller vessels.

Motorsailers

You don’t hear this term much anymore but it refers to a sailboat that also has an inboard motor so that they can travel under engine power or wind power. Typically these are larger vessels with accommodations below deck and designed for extended stays off shore. That said, because they mix both styles of boat, they fall somewhere short of either in terms of performance. The engine takes up space and adds weight, limiting your sailing abilities. Obviously traditional sailboats won’t include a motor.

The Bottom Line

There are a number of different kinds of sailboats and the easiest way to distinguish them is by comparing hull types, sail and mast configuration, and keels. Many terms you hear to describe sailboats can describe more than one kind, while others are very specific and the boat must meet certain requirements to merit the name. The only thing that truly unites every type of sailboat is the fact it must be powered by the wind, and even then there are hybrid versions that use motor power sometimes.

Learning the rigging of the different types of sailboats, including things like gaff rigs, standard rigging, and other rig types can be hard work and time consuming as some of these sailing boat rig types are far more complex than others.

My grandfather first took me fishing when I was too young to actually hold up a rod on my own. As an avid camper, hiker, and nature enthusiast I'm always looking for a new adventure.

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What Are The 4 Basic Types Of Boat Engines & How Do They Work?

Boating is a popular recreational activity, and it could also be used as a form of transportation for moving between coastal and river areas. Since we often don't see a boat's method of propulsion and its engine, we wouldn't usually think about how these watercraft move about on the surface.

Unlike cars, which have their engines placed at the front or rear of the cabin, boats have four basic types of engines. These four types have different placement methods and have their own advantages. The size of the boat and its intended use will affect the options you have, that's why you'll notice some boats usually come with a particular engine type.

So, let's explore four types of boat engines, examine their differences, and discover how they work. Of course, there will be other rarer types out there, but we will only stick with the most common boat engines for today.

Outboard engine

Outboard engines are highly suitable for smaller watercraft, which makes them one of the most used engines out there because of the prevalence of these small boats for pleasure and recreation. They're also called outboard engines because they're mounted outside the boat, usually on the transom, the beam that strengthens the stern structure of most boats. These engines typically come as a single complete power unit — from the engine and transmission to the shaft and propeller. Because of this, the smaller outboard engines are easier to work on, as you can remove the entire assembly if you need to service it or fix something. Nevertheless, you can also find outboard engines with large V8s, like the Honda BF350 .

Another reason that the outboard engine is pretty popular is its ease of use. Boats with this engine type don't need to have a rudder, as the entire engine assembly moves around to steer it. For smaller boats, you can do so by using a hand tiller, while some larger ones use a steering wheel that's connected to the engine.

You can find outboard engines with varying fuel or energy sources. They're usually powered by gasoline or diesel engines, but you can also find variants powered by a gasoline-and-oil mixture, as well as battery-powered motors primarily used for trolling and electric boats . Yamaha is one of the more popular makers of these engines, so you can check out these things if you want to know more about the Yamaha Marine Engine .

Inboard engine

The inboard engine is what you would typically think of in ships and larger boats — it is composed of an engine placed near the middle of the boat for balance and trim, with a transmission connected directly to it. A shaft then goes from this system through the hull of the boat, with the propellers sitting at its very end. The propellers are near the stern of the boat to provide power, but since everything in the inboard engine is fixed in place, you would need a rudder to deflect the flow from the propellers and steer the watercraft.

You can often find this engine type on boats that are 26 feet or longer, especially as these are heavier and would need larger engines. Aside from that, inboard engines usually use modified four-stroke automotive engines, which can deliver more horsepower and torque when needed. One more advantage of the inboard engine is the predictability of the wake that it produces, making it a great option for water sport enthusiasts. Since the propeller is fixed under the boat, changing the directions (using the rudder) won't have as great of an effect compared to outboard engines and stern drive boats.

Stern drive boats

This engine type is divided into two parts — the engine is similar to the inboard engine in that it uses modified four-stroke automobile engines placed inside the boat. However, its drive unit is more like that of the outboard engine, with the complete propeller assembly turning for steering. Since stern drive boats use the same engine as inboard engines, they usually have higher horsepower and torque than you can find on the latter. Another advantage of the stern drive boat is that since its engine is fixed in place, you can easily service it in place inside the boat.

But, at the same time, it's also more agile and maneuverable because of how the drive unit moves to steer the boat. This makes it useful for boats that typically move around in tight waterways. This makes the stern drive a common engine type for larger pleasure boats, which makes them easier to pilot. The stern drive boat offers the best of both inboard and outboard engines. It can use larger, more powerful engines than outboard motors, and with the engine placed at the stern, you'll have more open space near the center of the boat. You can also adjust the pitch of the drive unit to help trim the boat while you're underway.

Jet drive boats

Just as its name suggests, a jet drive boat is similar to a jet engine in that its propeller is inside a pod or container. Instead of having a propeller outside the boat, which is a potential danger to people and wildlife in the water, a jet drive boat has its engine inside the hull which then powers an impeller that sucks water through an intake nozzle. It then discharges the high pressure from the back of the boat through one or more nozzles that propel the boat at high speed.

The nozzle swivels around to steer the boat, thus removing the need for a rudder. However, when the boat or personal watercraft isn't being propelled forward at high speed, you'd have less steering control of the boat, making it difficult to navigate in tight spaces. Furthermore, if the intake gets choked by seaweed or other contaminants, it might be a bit difficult to clear. Jet drive is often used by personal watercraft, like jet skis. However, it can also be used by larger boats that are designed to work in shallow water. Furthermore, you can also get outboard motors that use jet drive to propel your watercraft.

Which boat engine should you get?

While you might be tempted to get a jet drive engine with the highest possible output rating to get the best speed that you can, you shouldn't do that. Instead, the biggest thing that you should consider is the size of your boat. All hull types have a speed rating, so you shouldn't get an engine that's way too powerful for the hull that you have.

But you shouldn't get the smallest possible engine as well, as an underpowered motor will make it harder for you to get underway. This will mean that the engine will have to work harder to move your boat, thus it will burn more fuel. So, you should get the recommended engine power and type that your hull manufacturer suggests.

Aside from that, you should also consider the number of people and cargo you typically carry. If you usually bring all your friends and family on your large yacht, then consider going for the higher horsepower rating for your boat. But if you prefer boating alone or with just your partner, then the engine with the lower rating should be more than enough.

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