sailboat washing machine

Sailing A Catamaran

12 effective ways for washing clothes on a sailboat.

Whether you are planning to go sailing for a week, a month or perhaps you are going to liveaboard your sailboat as a full time cruiser, then doing laundry on your sailboat is a huge consideration. I did some research and found some great options for doing laundry while living on a sailboat. If you are a seasoned sailor or boater and have experience with doing laundry on a boat, we would love to hear your methods for washing your clothes. Please add your comments below.

So How do you do laundry on a sailboat? I came up with 12 Effective Ways for Washing Clothes on a Sailboat ranging from washing by hand to using washing machines. The major influencers to the type of washing method used were onboard space, availability of a fresh water source and availability of power.

1. Onboard Electric Washer / Dryer Machine

This may be every sailors dream, other than having the mermaids do your laundry. If you are fortunate enough to have plenty of fresh water, ample electricity and the space for it (as many catamarans have), an onboard Automatic Washer / Dryer is a great option. This machine combines the washer and dryer into one appliance, but other than that is basically like doing laundry onshore at your home. There are different models available, but the one that seems to be mentioned the most is the Splendide 2100XC AC Washer Dryer Combo.

Reviews. The Splendide receives mixed reviews for quality, but overall is a good option for those wanting the conveniences of home. The pro’s are the convenience of using a machine to wash and dry. The clothes came out clean and wrinkle free. The cons are the cost (around $1100.00 US), seems to have some minor repair issues, though one review was from an owner who had it for 5 years with only minor issues and was overall satisfied. Another con is that is consumes a fair amount of water and electricity so if you are at an anchorage or on a crossing, requires running the engines or generator and either uses your fresh water supply or you are running your water maker.

2. Five Gallon Bucket and Plunger

The Five Gallon Bucket and Plunger seems to be one of the most tried and true options for washing clothes on a sailboat. This is a great option for boats that don’t have space, power or an endless supply of fresh water. Simply fill the bucket with approximately 1/3 full of fresh water, add 1/4 cup of detergent (will vary depending on which type and brand of detergent you are using), then use a toilet plunger to agitate the clothes in the water. After a few minutes for lightly soiled clothes (a little longer for heavily soiled clothes), transfer to another bucket for the rinse. Then hang up to dry.

Review. This method is effective, simple and takes up almost no space because every boat has a bucket and plunger on board. The big con on this one was the effort it took to agitate the clothes, some plungers may have the rubber part separate from the handle and it can spill a little bit of the soapy water out of the bucket.

3. Bucket with Tight Lid and Rope

The Bucket with Tight Lid and Rope option is much like the bucket option above, except you need a lid that attaches securely to the top of the bucket. Tie on a rope and throw overboard while sailing. The action of the bucket skipping off the waves provides agitation. The rinse and drying are the same as in number two above.

Review. This method could work out and save the plunging part of the bucket and plunger option. The cons are that you need a strong bucket with a strong lid and a strong handle or you may lose your clothes. If you don’t have a plunger or are grossed out by using your plunger to wash your clothes, then this could be an alternative. There is also a plunger available on Amazon, made with plastic with holes in it made for doing laundry and not using in the toilet.

4. Is it OK to Wash Clothes with Salt Water if you Rinse with Fresh Water?

Use Seawater by Rinse with Fresh Water is another option for washing clothes while out to sea. Yes, I know this isn’t really a method of cleaning, but I discovered a lot of discussion and debate when doing my research about using salt water VS using fresh water and thought it was worthy to add to the list.

Arguments for using fresh water. Salt holds moisture (doesn’t dry completely) and makes you itch. Fresh water gets the salt out, makes your clothes cleaner and will dry more completely. It doesn’t make you itch.

Salt water can and has been used by sailors for washing for centuries and may be the only option on a long passage or with a shortage of water onboard. It is better than wearing dirty and smelly clothes.

The compromise. One compromise between fresh and salt water laundry options is to wash with salt and rinse with fresh. The biggest negative I learned doing this is that it takes more fresh water to get the salt out so that you are better off just washing with fresh and rinsing with fresh if you are considering this option. The other way to conserve fresh water while sailing is to only wash your t-shirts and underwear with fresh water and use salt water on your other clothes. This keeps the parts that will touch your sensitive areas clean and fee of salty irritants.

5. Marina Laundromat / Laundromat in Town

Ok This isn’t a method for washing clothes on a sailboat, but one that many mariners choose to do. Pack enough clothes to last until you reach your next marina stop or anchorage in a town with laundry facilities. The advantage with using a laundromat is that you can often do several loads of laundry simultaneously, which minimizes your time waiting. The other advantages are obvious with getting clean clothes without using the electricity or water on board the boat. The cons are cost and having to carry your clothes to the laundry – especially if you have to take the dinghy and then walk to where the laundry is in the town. If you are in the marina this isn’t much of an issue.

6. Old Fashioned Washboard with Bar of Soap

I remember watching old movies and tv shows where an old fashioned washboard with a bar of soap was used to do laundry. The method is simple. Soak the cloths in water and use the bar of soap then scrub on the washboard.

Review. This is a very effective method for cleaning – especially stains and soiled clothing, uses minimal water and doesn’t take up much space. It is a step up from the bucket and plunger option. The cons are the muscle power used (it takes some effort) and can be a little hard on the clothes.

7. Dragging a Mesh Bag Behind the Boat

Dragging a Mesh Bag Behind the Boat uses the seawater for cleaning. The motion of the bag bumping around the waves provides agitation. The water penetrating the mesh provides constant rinsing.

Review. So this method isn’t a preferred one, but some hardcore sailors say it is effective and they have been doing it for years. It also preserves your fresh water assuming you are not doing a fresh water rinse. The cons is that either you dry as is (without rinsing) and have salt in your clothes or you still need to rinse with fresh water. We have already discussed the amount of fresh water needed to remove the salt (perhaps more than you save by washing in salt water). Could be an option for your outerwear if you are able to wash your undergarments and t-shirts with fresh water.

8. Wonder Washer

The Wonder Washer is a step up from the methods of 2 – 7, but short of having an electric washing machine. For around $50 you can have a small hand crank wash machine that holds around 5 lbs of clothing.

Review. Seems to work pretty good and as long as you don’t over fill it, is quite easy to crank. Gets the clothes nice and clean. One review I read provided detail of around 200 cranks for a load. It is easier than the plunger or washing in the sink options and gets the clothes clean. It is 16″ x 12″ x 12″ and weighs 5.5 LbS. The con is that you still need to use water for both washing and rinsing. Also, if you have a smaller boat, you may be challenged to find space for the Wonder Washer. You also need to ring out before hanging to dry. If you have $50 and space, but don’t want to go with the electric washer/dryer, then it could be a good alternative.

9. Wash in Bottom of Shower

Washing in the Bottom of the Shower is another low tech solution. If you have enough fresh water for the shower, but don’t want to use extra water for laundry, then you could put the dirty clothes in the bottom of the shower so your soapy water drops down on the dirty cloths. A few stomps provides agitation and a quick rinse and you are done. Hang up in the shower to dry away from the salt air.

Review. I don’t need to do much review on this one, but if you don’t have enough water for fresh water showers, then this one is out for you. If you have water for showers, then not a bad option and certainly is much easier than bending over a bucket. I have personally done this for a few of my clothes (especially bathing suit and rash guard after snorkeling) when on a charter catamaran in the Bahamas. We had eight on board for a week at sea so we had to conserve water. We had the option of refilling our tanks, but water isn’t cheap in the Bahamas so this did help.

10. Wash in Sink

Washing your Clothes in the Sink is another one that has been done for many years. Nothing too much to add here. You get the picture. It’s a little messy and you are limited to one or two small garments at a time (sinks on sailboats aren’t very big).

11. Dinghy Stomp

The Dinghy Stomp is one that I learned about while doing research. Yes, sailors are creative and some wait for a rainy day to fill up the bottom of the dinghy with water. They add a little laundry detergent, sit and stop. Rinse with the fresh rain water off your boat, wait for the rain to stop, then hang to dry.

Review. If it doesn’t rain, you’ll need to use one of the other methods. The other issue can be if your dinghy has sand or dirt in the bottom, you may be washing with not-so-clean water. On the positive side, it is a good way to conserve water.

12. The Scrubba

Last but not least is The Scrubba. The Scrubba is basically a dry bag with ribs on the inside. It was made as a light weight portable option for backpackers to do laundry out on the trail. Put in your clothes, add a little water and detergent, squeeze the air out and work the bag like you are kneading dough to make bread.

Review. The cost is around $50, which some consumers thought was more than it was worth. It works OK, was well made, but the boaters that provided comments thought it was no better than using the sink or one of the bucket methods. On the positive side, it doesn’t take up much space, is lightweight, stores easily and is effective.

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Why is installing a washing machine on a sailboat a good idea?

When it comes to household chores, laundry often takes the cake! On a boat, this task is made even more complicated by the absence of a washing machine. there are 3 possible options: laundromats on land, hand washing or getting a machine... Here are some arguments to make the right choice.

The race for stopovers

On a long cruise, marina stops are often spent running to the port laundry room hoping that a washing machine is free. Checking feverishly to see if there are enough coins in the purse to power these voracious machines or getting tokens from the marina office. To wait and wait and wait to put the laundry in the dryer, pay again and hope that the laundry comes out seceuros In sunny latitudes, this last step can be avoided.

Depending on how often you stop in a marina , you will have to run several machines in a row. But they must be free. During busy periods, you often have to wait your turn.

And then, you run to the supermarket to buy supplies, to the showers to clean up, to the ship to find the piece you were missing, etc. And the next day, you will leave without having had time to visit anything. Frustrating.

Moreover, between each stopover , you will have to store the dirty laundry and, unfortunately, the laundry basket is often the great forgotten of sailboats.

Last but not least, there are marinas with all the amenities on the roads that are well traveled by sailboats. But elsewhere, off the beaten track, you won't find many.

Hand washing

If you choose the hand wash option, good luck getting to the sweaters or worse, the sheets.

In addition, despite the common belief, hand washing is not especially fresh water efficient. Indeed, it is not possible to wash clothes entirely with sea water. If you do use it, you'll need to rinse your clothes thoroughly in fresh water because salt absorbs moisture and your clothes will always be a little sticky if any remains.

On the other hand, it is difficult to spin well by hand, which makes the drying time even longer. So, why not let yourself be tempted by the installation of a washing machine on board?

Manual machines

There are all kinds of manual washing machines that you fill with laundry and water before turning a crank. They stir the clothes but they don't really clean, they're not very water efficient and they're quite bulky. But, they don't require electricity and they make you do a bit of sport when you have to turn. In short, don't count on them to do your daily family laundry.

Adapted electric washing machines

In the category of electric washing machines, you will have the choice of models specifically adapted to small spaces (campers, sailboats, etc.) which allow to wash 2 to 3 kg of linen in general.

They can often be stored in a chest and taken out when needed. Some are true miniature washing machines that work exactly like the big ones. But 3 kg of laundry? For a family, that's not enough.

These models will be most useful on a one-time basis, between visits to the laundry.

A machine like at home

When you live on a long-distance boat, these models are not sufficient. Let's take the example of a family of 5 people with three children. On land, you need to count about 30-35 kg of laundry per week. On a sailboat , if you are careful, you will need about 7-9 kg per week. Of course, this depends on the latitudes: when it is very hot, we wear less clothes! However, there is always the "house" laundry.

In these conditions, investing in a real washing machine, like at home, becomes a very important element of comfort and autonomy to avoid running from port to port just to run a machine.

However, a washing machine consumes space, fresh water and electricity: three elements often rationed on sailing boats. The installation of a machine must therefore take these parameters into consideration.

4 questions before installing a washing machine

Before investing in such a machine, you should ask yourself several questions:

• Will a washing machine on board allow me to gain autonomy according to the composition of my crew , my destinations and the duration of my navigations?
• if so, do I have room to take one on board?
• if so, do I have enough energy to run it?
• if so, do I have enough water on board to meet this expense (about 55 liters/cycle in eco mode)?

It is understood that if you need to connect to the dock of a marina to have enough water and electricity for your washing machine, its installation is not necessarily relevant

New Sailboat Laundry Room Complete with Rainman Water Maker

Sailboat Water Maker Installation and Laundry Room Conversion

Our 44-foot sailboat, Satori, recently received a bathroom “make-over” of sorts. After receiving our brand new Rainman water maker (see review here), we wanted to make using it even more convenient. We also saw an opportunity to add a luxury item to the boat in the form of a washing machine.

This video and article outline the details of our guest bathroom conversion to a laundry room.

• Rainman Water Maker Installation on a Sailboat
• Rainman Water Maker modifications
• Installed Operation of the Rainman Water Maker
• Automatic Washing Machine installation and operation

When shopping for a boat, I knew I planned to be a full-time cruiser eventually. I had a mental checklist of all of the things I thought I would want for my cruising experience. I knew a water maker would be necessary, but I would have never thought it was possible to have a real washing machine onboard a sailboat.

Our sailboat Satori had a water maker installed when I bought her, but I didn’t use it for many years while I was at the dock in St. Petersburg. Once we set sail, I was so grateful to have it onboard. It took some work to get her up and running again, but it was worth it. We have never had to struggle with the chore of finding, or worse, paying for water while cruising. However, we do have friend boats that are always dealing with the burden of conserving, locating, paying, and hauling water every week. Watching them is stressful enough.

With our older 12V, low capacity, water maker (5-6 gallons per hour), we had to run it 2-3 hours every day to keep up with our water demands onboard the sailboat. I will admit, we are not very good at water conservation. But then, I never planned on being good at it. From day one, I wanted to make sure life onboard did not feel like camping.

I wasn’t long before the constant use of the old water maker began to be a burden in itself. The solar panels could not keep up with the demands of the water maker plus everything else onboard. We found ourselves running the generator quite often to make up the difference. This was when we decided to bring a Rainman onboard. If we were going to run the generator, I figured it was more efficient to make 36 gallons an hour while running the generator a few hours every few days than it was to run the generator 1-2 hours every night.

Click here to see our Review of the Rainman Water Maker

Watch Kelly do the Rainman 10-minute challenge Here:

The Rainman high output watermaker we chose costs about $5000. Rainman has a few variations and options available, including a “Naked” unit without a case. A lower output “Economy” version, as well as 12V DC, 115V AC, as well as a gas powered one. You can buy the Rainman in the US from SeaTask , the distributor out of Florida.

SATORI Rainman Special from SeaTask

SeaTask is offering a special deal for all of our Sailing Satori viewers. Buy any Rainman System, Get $100 worth of extras (TDS Meter, five spare filters, T-shirt, Thank You letter from Sailing Satori)

Use Promo Code “SATORI” at Checkout OR use this link: http://bit.ly/satori-rainman-deal

Creative Installation

These are the goals and criteria I had for the installation less than a standard installation.

Installation Criteria

• Maintain Portability – Rainman Watermakers are designed to be Portable)
• Non-invasive installation – I did not want to alter the boat or cut large holes
• Simple operation –   Turnkey Operation with direct connections
• Bathroom to remain functional – Even if it meant the removal of equipment when guests are onboard.
• It’s large and heavy
• Small/Unusual install location
• Access to Parts – Puerto Rico/Virgin Islands/limited Amazon delivery
• Time – possible re-work of plumbing connections in future (hurricane season)

Because the forward guest head mainly remains unused, we decided to treat it as a utility room. Since we already store most of our cleaning products in here, it was a natural fit. Everything was installed so that each plumbing and electrical connection is easily accessible for disassembly and portability.

Pressure Unit

I built a custom shelf to install the pressure unit above the counter and sink. The shelf created a solid unobstructed base for the pressure unit, and also allowed the accessibility to the sink and faucet, cabinet, and 115V receptacle.

The membrane was mounted to the bulkhead/bathroom wall using the Rainman supplied mounting hardware. Because the case would be obstructed from being opened, I drilled 2.5″ access holes for the pressure control dial and pressure gauge. I also drilled holes for each of the three hoses exiting the case. The hole allows the hoses to exit and the case to stay closed. This way, the hoses to remain neat and organized.

Electrical Plug

Pressure unit is plugged into the 115V receptacle

Intake Hose

The intake hose tee’s into the head flush line with backflow preventers to control water flow. I made a homemade Y-valve to switch between pulling in seawater or from the freshwater rinse bucket. The native cam connection was utilized to maintain portability.

High-Pressure Hose

The High-Pressure hose uses the existing native connection to the pressure unit. Mounting bases and zip ties were used to keep the hose neat and organized. Extra unused hosed is coiled and stored in the membrane case.

Brine Discharge

The brine hose exits the case through the feed hole I drilled. It connects to the Rainman supplied check valve before running behind the panel. I had to build a custom reducer to tie into the 3/4″ drain T fitting.

To make the reducer, I heated the plastic hose to make one end fit over a larger fitting. For example, 1/2″ ID can stretch over a 3/4″ fitting. The fitting used are as follows: 3/4″ T to 1/2″ ID hose to 1/2″ coupler to 1/4″ ID hose to 3/8″ OD Nylon Hose

Product Water

The product line exits the case through the feed hole I drilled. It connects to the Rainman supplied Y valve. Off the Y valve, one hose is open for testing. The other hose is reduced from 5/16” to 1/4” hose. I had to do this because I could not find 5/16″ OD parts available in Puerto Rico. The hose then goes behind the panel and into the forward freshwater holding tank.

Washing Machine

The washing machine sits on top of the existing Lavac toilet. I cut a piece of rubber to match the toilet lid. The rubber pad protects the toilet and prevents it from slipping. On top of the rubber pad is a finished 2’x2′ board platform. The board is unsecured but stays in place once the washing machine is strapped in and secured.

Because the doors to the bathroom are pretty narrow, we had a hard time finding an automatic washing machine that would fit through the doorway. Luckily, the one we chase has worked great!

Here is the washing machine we chose, available on Amazon. ZENY Washing Machine – https://amzn.to/32lkicy

Supply Line

The supply line tee’s into the cold water supply for facet

The drain hose tee’s into the sink drain hose, along with the forward bilge pump and watermaker brine discharge hose.

The washing machine plugs into the existing 115V receptacle

Watermaker Operation Steps

• Start generator
• Start pressure unit
• Increase pressure on the membrane to green zone on the dial
• Test water with TDS via test hose
• Switch Y valve to divert product water into the holding tank

Shut Down (Basic – good for 2-3 days without use)

• Decrease pressure to 0
• Shut off pressure unit

Shut Down (Freshwater Rinse – good for seven days without use)

• Turn product water Y valve to direct water into a 3-5 gallon bucket, fill the bucket
• Turn product water Y valve to divert water into the holding tank
• Place rinse hose in the bucket
• Open rinse valve/close seawater valve
• Run 3-5 gals through the unit
• Shut unit off pressure unit

Shut Down (Pickling – good for three months without use)

Pickling the watermaker is the same process as the freshwater flush, except that the pickling solution should be added to the bucket before it gets flushed through the watermaker.

Washing Machine Operation

• Three load sizes (medium is 1/3 size of a regular load)
• Various wash programs
• We discovered that the Wash/Rinse cycle rinses twice and too much water
• We do Wash cycle with detergent, manual spin. The other “Wash” without detergent as a rinse, then another manual spin. Hang to dry.
• Dry time with sun and a gentle breeze is about 1 hour.

Materials Used In This Install

Rainman water maker.

SATORI Rainman Special: Buy any Rainman System, Get $100 worth of extras (TDS Meter, five spare filters, T-shirt, Thank You letter from Sailing Satori). Use Promo Code SATORI at Checkout OR use this link: http://bit.ly/satori-rainman-deal

ZENY Washing Machine

Available on Amazon – https://amzn.to/32lkicy

Share This Article!

Related posts.

Buying a Watermaker? – Why we chose Rainman

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[…] Up and Shipping Out, Beautiful Spinnaker Sailing – S2:E28 Previous […]

Hello there, I’ve been looking for a portable laundry solution. Do you still like you Zeny? Thanks!

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Installing A Washing Machine On Our Sailing Catamaran

How do you get a working washing machine on a sailboat? 60 kgs of weight to be lifted on, then fitted in place.. Then connecting the washing machine up! In this video we show you how we installed a washing machine and we did have a bit of fun with it too. Enjoy our next episode of Sailing Around the World, only just beginning here in Cyprus! Our boat is a Lagoon 420 sailing catamaran. One of our first videos was a full boat tour when we considered buying it, have a look inf you'd like to know and see all: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhUEGUSOL0U I must admit, some of our inspiration comes from Sailing La Vagabonde, Sailing Zatara, Sailing Holly Blue, and World Towning.. although we've been talking about sailing around the world for about 3 years now.. it suddenly is coming a lot closer, and fast!! If you are interested in sailing catamarans, or the cruising lifestyle, we love to talk about it, so leave us a comment, or connect using one of our other social media profiles, we are on Facebook, Instagram and on Patreon for the biggest fans! Find the links below. For information, suggestions or questions, please get in touch with me on [email protected] 🔥 Do you want to get to know me better? 🔥 For the most dedicated fans I created my Patreon Page. You can chat with me directly in a dedicated members only chat. And a monthly live video update.. You'll be the first to know every little detail! https://www.patreon.com/ultimatefreggle Stay tuned and S U B S C R I B E for many more adventures kitesurfing, paragliding, sailing and travelling around Qatar and abroad! 👇🏼 The drone I use for many of my videos 👇🏼 http://bit.ly/2mydrone 👇🏼 The camera I use 👇🏼 https://amzn.to/2udzAUh 🔥👇🏼 I found these great promotions for you too! 👇🏼🔥 Millions of Songs for Free with this Free Amazon Music Trial: https://amzn.to/30JUW9T Free Amazon Shipping with this Free 30 day Trial: https://amzn.to/2MWTGIu Definitely Subscribe to my channel for more travel and adventure sports videos, both in Qatar and abroad. I really enjoy getting to know new people from around the world this way. You can expect Kitesurfing, Paragliding and Paramotoring, Drone videography and in the future hopefully even a live aboard sailboat featuring on the channel! Check my facebook page to get some behind the scenes updates and find me on instagram for some eye candy. On my blog I write about my adventures too! Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ultimatefreggle/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/theultimatefreggle/ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/ultimatefreggle Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/ultimatefreggle/ Blogger: http://ultimatefreggle.blogspot.com/ Soundtracks in my videos are taken from the Epidemic Sound library. The soundtracks in this video are: Perfecto - Timothy Infinite Sign up for Epidemic Sound here: https://www.epidemicsound.com/referral/o1yx9a/ For inquiries contact theultimatefreggle - a t - gmail.com Wishing you lots of Ultimate Adventures - The Ultimate Freggle Some of my videos contain affiliate links. These come at no extra cost to you, but really help to support my channel! In this video: #washingmachinesailboat #washingmachineinstall #sailingaroundtheworld #ultimatefreggle

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Hunter 31 washing machine install

• Thread starter Pizzazz
• Start date Mar 5, 2019
• Tags hunter 31 sidekick washing machine
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Mid-Size Boats

David in Sandusky

Hmmm! Quite an accomplishment! We have never had a problem finding a washing machine and dryer in or near a marina for cruises longer than a week. The local folks always know where to go. I could see a value in an on-board washing machine for a long transoceanic crossing. But my understanding of such cruises is that there is plenty of time for hand washing which is also very efficient with the fresh water.  

WOW, I saw the title and thought "sure he did". But that is very impressive. Not sure I need it, but I dont want to diminish your accomplishment!  

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How to Clean a Sailboat Sail – The Right Way

There are some tedious activities that I put off for a long time due to the sheer anticipation of how much time and energy it will take, and cleaning my sailboat sails is definitely one of them. However, once I finally hunkered down and got to work on them, the process was actually pretty straightforward and easy. Luckily, I also found some excellent resources to ensure I was cleaning and handling my sails properly.

So, how do you clean a sailboat sail, the right way? As it turns out, there are a numerous simple and natural solutions for cleaning a sailboat’s sails, and the method will depend on the type of material the sail is made from, and what type of dirt or damage that needs to be removed.

Additionally, I discovered some crucial how not to’s that you will most certainly want to know about so that you don’t accidentally damage or destroy your expensive sailboat sails. 

Reasons You Might Want or Need to Clean Your Sails

Firstly, you might be wondering when one is supposed to clean one’s sailboat sails and how regularly. Unlike how a car needs to be serviced roughly every 5,000 miles or so, a sailboat sail only needs to be thoroughly cleaned when its owner notices a certain types of grime, wear, or a nasty nest of spiders (true story.)

Here are some tell-tale signs it is time to lower your sails and scrub-a-dub-dub.

• You Spot Mildew: You will start to notice spots of grey at first, until the mildew grows black, usually in the same recurring place on your sails (often at the bottom near the folded creases of the sails.
• You Spot Lots of Bird Droppings: While some may consider bird droppings to be good luck, I, along with many health advocates, believe it to be quite unsanitary. You’ll want to remove any pelican feces, if not for the appearance, for your health.
• There’s Obvious Dirt, Grime or Grease: I once cruised on a friend’s vessel whose sails were so filthy that they were no longer pearly white, but rather brownish-yellow. It was pretty disgusting, honestly, and a brown sail is more than enough of a sign to know to lower the line and give that sail a deep clean.
• Your Sails Have Been In a Dark Dusty Corner Somewhere : While I would not recommend abandoning your sails in the dark, dusty corners of your storage unit (spiders nests, remember?), I am aware that this kind of thing does happen. However, while you do conveniently have your sails in storage (or grandma’s attic), you may as well give them a good hosing down before you hoist them up on your boat. 
• Maybe it was a particularly rough sea, and you know your sails took a good beating, and there’s way too much salt residue clinging to them.
• Your new sailing companion forgot to mention their tendency toward sea-sickness, and they christen your sails with their recent clam chowder.
• Your relaxing wine and cheese cruise was a little too relaxing, leading your brother-in-law to stumble and fall, his full cup of wine soaring to the heavens above him, landing serendipitously upon your crisp, clean sails. (It’s happened.)
• There’s a fight on your sailboat after a little too much wine (there’s that wine again), and your best mate has a better right hook than you expected, and your inebriated senses make you dodge and duck just a hair too slowly and your freshly broken nose creates a beautiful spray of blood across your perfectly pearly sails. (Hey, who am I to judge what happens aboard your private vessel, as long as you have a first aid kit handy…)

The Wrong Ways to Clean a Sailboat Sail

Before we go through the in-depth list of how to properly clean your sails, it is prudent we investigate the wrong ways to clean them as well, so that you can avoid any easy-to-make mistakes.

Here are some questions many sailors, including myself, have initially pondered when gearing up to wash their sails, and the reasons why these methods are unfortunately ill-advised.

Can you Bleach Sails?

A lot of folks want to know whether or not one can use bleach, oxi-clean, or acetone to clean sails. I do not recommend it for specific sail fabrics. While you ‘technically’ can use any of these chemicals, it could come at a cost to your sails. If you can successfully clean your sails without using these very harsh chemicals, I would urge you to do so.

When it comes to mildew, I understand the desire to use bleach. It’s what I use as soon as I notice any of those pesky grey spots sneaking along the edges of my glass shower sliding-door. Thus, I empathize in wanted to sufficiently douse your moldy sail in bleach. However, many sails will be heavily damaged by bleach, and it could even weaken the strength of your sail up to 60%. That certainly does not seem worth it, does it?

If you just can’t fathom getting rid of mold or mildew any other way, then at the very most, you may create a dilution of water with the faintest amount of bleach to clean your sails, but at your own risk of ruining or weakened their fragile fibers. (This may be possible when cleaning Dacron sails, but not when cleaning Nylon or Kevlar sails – they are much too fragile for bleach.)

Can You Put Your Sails in a Washing Machine?

No. This is a poor idea since there is no give or stretch in the type of cloth used to make sails, and the washing machine (depending on the kind you have) may twist and pull at the fibers until they are weakened. And that is assuming the washing machine doesn’t put a tear in the sail entirely, which has happened to me with two different pairs of normal bed sheets. If a washer can easily shred bed sheets, trust that it can shred your expensive sails.

Also, suffice it to say that while you would never want to use a washing machine, you most certainly do not want to use a machine dryer. The intense heat will severely damage the resin in your sails, and when you pull it out, it will likely be crinkled up and misshapen and will be extremely hard to re-shape after that point.

Can I Soak My Sail in a Chlorinated Pool?

Due to the massive size of a pool matching up with the massive size of your sails, it makes sense you might want to just chuck your grungy sails in your chemical pool. In some instances, this might be okay, depending on the fabric of your sails (Dacron, for example). However, much like bleach and oxi-clean, chlorine is a tough chemical. Granted, our bodies can swim in it without our skin withering away – so it’s not as harsh as bleach. However, I still feel confident there are other safer ways of cleaning your sail that hopefully disables any weakening of its fragile material.

However, if you have a Dacron sail and you want to put it in your chlorinated pool for a short period of time, I don’t think it will permanently damage your sail.

To Recondition and Re-Resinate or Not to? That is the Question.

There are some really top-notch professional companies that have perfected chemical engineered cleaning processes to clean sailboat sails. Based off of customer reviews, it also seems that many people have a lot of success with this method.

One company, in particular, located in Pennsylvania, created a cleaning process they call the LaMauney Process. This entails the cleaning of polyester/Dacron fabric sails, followed by a replacement and fortification of the resin in the sail fibres. They do this to strengthen the sail – and they also add some cool features like UV protection and anti-fungal elements. 

To learn more about this process, watch this video of Jerry Fultz from Sail Care, Inc.

This may or may not be a great option for cleaning sails; therefore, the jury is split on this one. Some companies are adamant that reconditioning and re-resinating sails does not work and is a bad idea. They argue that if a sail is old, the new resin will wear away after only a few sailing seasons and that the heat involved in this kind of cleaning and refurbishing process can shrink boltropes and leach lines, making the problem worse (rather than better). The biggest argument being that if your sail is so distorted or messed up, the cost of a new sail is going to be a much better value than sending our sail out to be professionally cleaned and re-resinated.

The Right Ways to Clean a Sailboat Sail 

Now that you’re well versed in the chemicals and methods that are NOT recommended for the cleaning of your sails, let’s get straight to the best ways to clean your sails (based on mess/problem and the sail fabric). Firstly, make sure you have a space cleaned and prepared that is large enough for your sail. This is your first obstacle. Everything after that is relatively easy.

Allan Stokell of Grampian Marine YouTube Channel also has some excellent cleaning tips and has years and years of experience as well. (His story about how he dries his sail after he washes it is worth listening to.)

Cleaning Based on the Type of Problem

• Dirt, Thick Salt Residue, or Bird Feces – This standard type of grime, which will eventually be found on most sails, can be easily cleaned with a mild detergent or dish soap and a gentle brush (one with soft bristles). You’ll then follow this with a thorough rinse of fresh water and lay the sail out on a surface (preferably one that allows both sides to dry.)
• Oil or Grease Stains – Also removable with soap and warm water. For difficult stains, you can add the tiniest (like a quarter size) of bleach. But again, I must warn you the risk you take in using bleach (especially on nylon and Kevlar sails.) Vinegar can also be used to lift some grease stains (I use a solution of normal dish soap, water, and a little bit of apple cider vinegar to clean the grease and grime off my stovetop and it works serious wonders.) However, there is a caveat. Vinegar can eat through certain materials – make sure your sail can withstand a strong vinegar before you go dousing it. For oil and grease stains, a normal, soft bristled scrub brush will suffice. Rinse with fresh water, lay out to dry.
• Rust & Metal Type Stains –  Despite its potential to damage your sail, acetone is excellent at removing this specific type of metallic stain. However, for our purposes, we recommend using a dish soap with water with only a trace amount of acetone (again, baring if you have a nylon or kevlar sail). In this instance, that were are trying to avoid harsh chemicals, you may try SimpleGreen. And if that doesn’t do it, try a white rust stain remover.
• Mold and Mildew – As soon as you spot mildew, you’ll want to instantly isolate the area so that the mold does not continue to spread to the rest of the sail. If you’ve got a Dacron sail or another durable type of sail material, you may use a 1% or less bleach solution (or an extremely watered-down store-bought solution). In the same vein, vinegars are also known to kill fungi and bacteria – but you’d want to use a similar caution when using vinegar on your sails, as you would with bleach. Thus, our third recommendation is Lysol. Lysol is a great anti-fungal spray, and kills spores, and prevent their continued growth. You can spray your mildew with Lysol and wipe away several hours later, and the mold should be gone.
• Blood or Wine – I know the above scenario seemed outlandish; however, it would not be the craziest thing in the world to somehow have blood or deep red wine stains appear on your sails. In this event, you’ll want to soak the particularly stained segment of your sail in a normal detergent. If this doesn’t work than try part water, part cleaning solvent (here is a good one) . If you don’t have a cleaning solvent, and it’s a Dacron sail, you can do ten parts water to one part bleach (but need I remind you one more time to be cautious of its use?)

Prevention is Key: Ways to Prevent Your Sails from Becoming Damaged or Dirty

There is no better way to keep your sailboat sails immaculate than by preventing damage and stains in the first place. Here are some easy to follow, and sometimes rather obvious seeming ways to care for your sails.

• Don’t leave your sails in the sun . The sun’s UV rays will severely damage your sails. You must make sure you have a sufficient protective cover for your sails anytime your boat is going to be docked for extended periods of time in the sun.
• To this effect, avoid exposing your sails to unnecessary heat (like storing them someplace not temperature controlled – like a car trunk or outdoor storage unit). Likewise, be sure not to place them someplace silly like near a hot engine or heater.
• When your sailboat is not in use (during the off season), remove the sails, clean them, and have them properly repaired at least once a year. And store the sails somewhere clean and safe. And never store them before they are 100% dry!
• Roll and fold your sails properly – do not just shove them into a box or bag, this will help prevent a breakdown of your sail’s resin
• Avoid petroleum-based products – the adhesives on laminated sails are liable to break down when you use such products

Key Take-Aways

Ultimately, the longevity of your sails is almost certainly determined by the state of care you give them, part of which involves preventative measures, and after-care for when your sail inevitably encounters dirt, salt, grease, or mildew. As long as you are keenly aware of the fabric your sail is made of, you should aptly be able to discern the best plan of action for cleaning your sails for your particular needs.

It is wise to avoid having to go through the time-intensive process of removing, cleaning, drying, and re-hoisting your sail, to do all you can to prevent damage, stains, and mess to occur on your sails. However, I understand sometimes things happen, and they must be cleaned. But now that you are now armed with the knowledge of how best to do so, you’ll have them spic-and-span in no time.

I am the owner of sailoradvice. I live in Birmingham, UK and love to sail with my wife and three boys throughout the year.

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Sail Washing 101

Sail washing 101, everything you need to know about sail washing by our team of certified service professionals.

The three main benefits to sail washing are:

Cleaner sail, life extension.

Let's Recap!

• Everything except oil stains
• Mold & mildew
• Yes. Like anything that is in contact with salt water, 3Di sails can be rinsed with fresh water and dried before storing.
• Square footage of the sail
• Luff x foot

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Narrowboat Nomad

Can You Have a Washing Machine on a Narrow Boat? Exploring the Best Possibilities

Narrow boats are a popular choice for those looking to live a simple and adventurous life on the water. However, living on a narrow boat can come with its own set of challenges, one of which is the limited space available . This raises the question of whether it is possible to have a washing machine on a narrow boat.

The answer to this question is yes, it is possible to have a washing machine on a narrow boat. However, it is important to consider the practicalities of installing and using one. Space is at a premium on a narrow boat, so it is essential to choose a washing machine that is compact and can fit into a small space. Additionally, the machine will need to be installed in a way that ensures it is secure and won’t move around while the boat is in motion.

There are several options available for those looking to install a washing machine on a narrow boat, including compact machines that can be built in or portable machines that can be stored away when not in use. It is important to weigh up the pros and cons of each option and consider factors such as cost, space, and practicality before making a decision.

Can You Have a Washing Machine on a Narrowboat?

Living on a narrowboat can be an exciting and rewarding experience, but it also comes with its own unique challenges. One of the biggest challenges for boaters is how to do laundry. While many narrowboat owners opt to use laundrettes or hand washing, some may want to install a washing machine on their boat.

Considerations for Installing a Washing Machine on a Narrowboat

Before installing a washing machine on a narrowboat, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, the size of the boat and the available space will determine what type of washing machine can be installed. Secondly, the power source is essential, and boaters will need to consider whether they will use shore power, an inverter, batteries, or a generator. Thirdly, the plumbing and drainage must be considered, as waste water will need to be appropriately disposed of.

Boaters should also be aware of the energy consumption of the washing machine they choose. A power audit will help determine how much power the boat has available and how much power the washing machine will draw. It is essential to ensure that the boat’s battery bank can handle the power draw of the washing machine.

Types of Washing Machines Suitable for Narrowboats

There are several types of washing machines suitable for narrowboats, including twin tubs , portable washing machines , automatic washing machines , and washer/dryer combinations . Twin tubs are popular among boaters as they use less water and are more energy-efficient. Portable washing machines are also a good option as they are compact and can be stored away when not in use. Automatic washing machines and washer/dryer combinations are larger and require more space, but they are convenient for larger loads.

Boaters should also consider the type of washing machine they choose in terms of their environmental impact. Some washing machines are more energy-efficient and environmentally friendly than others. For example, condenser dryers use less energy than traditional tumble dryers and are better for the environment.

In conclusion, boaters can have a washing machine on a narrowboat, but it requires careful consideration of the available space, power source, plumbing, and drainage. Twin tubs and portable washing machines are popular options, and boaters should also consider the environmental impact of their choice.

Power Requirements

When installing a washing machine on a narrowboat, it is essential to consider the power requirements. The power draw of washing machines varies, and it is important to ensure that the boat’s electrical system can handle the load. A power audit may be necessary to determine the available power and the power requirements of the washing machine.

Boaters can power their washing machines using shore power, an alternator, a generator, or an inverter. Inverters convert DC power from the battery bank to AC power, which is required by most washing machines. It is important to note that the size of the inverter should be able to handle the power requirements of the washing machine.

Water Supply and Drainage

Water supply and drainage are also critical considerations when installing a washing machine on a narrowboat. Boats have limited water supply, and it is essential to ensure that the washing machine’s water consumption is within the boat’s capacity.

Boaters can source water from the canal or marina, but they should be mindful of the water quality. Using detergents that are environmentally friendly is also recommended.

The washing machine’s drainage should be connected to the boat’s plumbing system. Boaters may need to install a separate drain for the washing machine if the boat’s plumbing cannot handle the volume of water.

Space Constraints

Space constraints are a significant challenge when installing a washing machine on a narrowboat. Most narrowboats have limited space, and it is essential to consider the washing machine’s size and the space required for installation.

Twin tub washing machines are a popular choice for narrowboats as they are compact and do not require a lot of space. Portable washing machines are also an option, but they are not as efficient as automatic washing machines. Boaters may need to sacrifice other appliances such as a fridge, freezer, microwave, or kettle to make space for the washing machine.

In conclusion, installing a washing machine on a narrowboat requires careful consideration of power requirements, water supply and drainage, and space constraints. Boaters should also be mindful of the environmental impact of their laundry practices and use detergents that are environmentally friendly.

Portable Washing Machines

For boaters who want a washing machine that can be easily moved around and stored away when not in use, a portable washing machine is an excellent option. These machines are compact, lightweight, and easy to use. They are also versatile, as they can be used with a variety of detergents and fabrics.

Portable washing machines come in two types: automatic and non-automatic. Automatic machines require a power source, such as an inverter or generator, while non-automatic machines are manually operated and do not require any electricity. Both types are suitable for narrowboats, but automatic machines are more convenient for those who want to save time and effort.

Twin Tub Washing Machines

Twin tub washing machines are a popular choice among boaters because they are compact, energy-efficient, and easy to use. These machines have two tubs: one for washing and one for spinning. They are also lightweight and can be easily moved around the boat.

Twin tub washing machines are suitable for narrowboats with limited space and power supply. They can be used with a variety of detergents and fabrics and are ideal for washing small loads of laundry.

Washer/Dryer Combos

For boaters who want a washing machine and a dryer in one unit, a washer/dryer combo is an excellent option. These machines are compact and can be easily installed on a narrowboat. They are also energy-efficient and can save boaters time and effort.

Washer/dryer combos are available in two types: vented and condenser. Vented machines require an external vent to remove moisture, while condenser machines use a heat exchanger to dry clothes. Both types are suitable for narrowboats, but condenser machines are more energy-efficient and do not require a vent.

In conclusion, there are several types of washing machines suitable for narrowboats. Boaters should consider their space and power requirements when choosing a machine. Portable washing machines, twin tub washing machines, and washer/dryer combos are all excellent options for boaters who want to do their laundry on board.

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What’s the Best Way to Clean Marine Rope?

Practical sailor tests suggest that some common practices for cleaning dock lines and boat ropes do more harm than good..

Every spring, there are numerous threads on the sailing forums discussing the best ways to clean ropes, mostly about dock lines. Brutal methods are suggested: power washing, soaking in a bucket of bleach for a week, scrubbing them with Spick-N-Span and leaving them on a bright concrete sidewalk to dry. Others recount experiences of ropes disintegrating in their washing machine, of washers being mangled, and adamantly insist that the only safe method is gentle agitation in a tub with the lightest touch of Woolite.

Our own interviews with technical representatives from major rope manufacturers Bluewater Ropes, New England Ropes, Samson Cordage, and Yale Cordage on this topic yielded uniformly conservative guidance. These makers have all faced claims of rope failure resulting from poor cleaning methods. They all recommend some cleaning, but they generally suggested this should be limited to a freshwater rinse. Rinsing removes salt crystals and is safe, even for an obsessive-compulsive rope-cleaner. The truth is that mildew and algae don’t weaken synthetic ropes, so cleaning green stains from your jib sheets is a purely cosmetic effort. Generally, anything but a mild rinse is best avoided for the first few years in the life of your running rigging.

Advice on How to Clean Boat Ropes from Manufacturers

In search of definitive guidance on rope cleaning (see How We Tested), we turned first to manufacturers for advice. Although the advice varied in some details, all agreed on the following points.

Wash only with a very mild detergent. For relatively new ropes, this means something like Woolite or a half-dose of a modern laundry detergent. For the first few years, ropes still contain thread coatings and lubricants from the factory that provide an easy hand, as well as offer some protection from UV radiation, abrasion, and water absorption. Washing a new rope in a cleaner touted as degreaser will harm this protective coating. After several years, when these lubricants have clearly been washed away by rain and worn off by normal use, ordinary laundry detergents at ordinary doses are acceptable. Avoid any cleaners that have a pH value below 7 or above 9, exaggerated soaking periods, or exaggerated doses. Most common laundry detergents are buffered in this pH range when used as directed.

Wash on the gentlest cycle. The rope should be tightly coiled or tied in a daisy-chain, and then placed inside a pillowcase. Front-loading washing machines are recommended; an up-and-down motion is preferable to the rotary motion of most common household machines. Without coiling or daisy-chaining, a rope can turn into an impressive tangle. The pillowcase further restricts the motion of the rope and prevents the rope from wrapping around the central agitator, which can destroy ropes and break washing machines. For a video of daisy chaining, search chain sinnet (also called a monkey braid), on www.animatedknots.com .

Avoid contact with acids, bases, and solvents. Both polyester and nylon (polyamide) are vulnerable to certain chemicals, so manufacturers broadly warn against using them. However, both nylon and polyester are unaffected by most solvents. Extended exposure to certain alcohols can weaken polyester. Both nylon and polyester have some vulnerability to alkalis such as those found in strong cleaners like TSP (trisodium phosphate) or Spick-N-Span.

Nylon is particularly vulnerable to acid. Strong acids such as battery acid or muriatic acid can literally melt right through a nylon rope in a matter of minutes. Soaking for an hour in weak acid cleaners (typically based on phosphoric acid, oxalic acid, citric acid, or acetic acid) such as Lime-Away or Shower Power can weaken the rope by as much as 50 percent without any worthwhile cleaning benefits. Avoid all acid cleaners, including vinegar, and diluted acids.

Fabric softener at recommended doses is approved. However, high doses of fabric softener can weaken ropes, primarily because they prevent complete drying.

Power washing is not recommended. While it can be an effective method for cleaning marine growth from mooring pendants and dock lines, a power washer in the hands of an inexperienced operator can do significant damage. High-pressure water can easily cut through a line and do significant hidden damage. Power washing can be carried out safely by keeping the power-washer nozzle at a sufficient distance, but there is no easy way to tell whether your work is causing some hidden damage.

Bleach is not recommended by any manufacturer in any quantity. Every manufacturer has faced claims of rope failure or splice failure caused by a bleach overdose. Extended soaking in bleach solutions must be avoided.

Hot water is not a problem. Nylon and polyester are undamaged at normal water-heater temperatures (120 to 135 degrees).

Don’t dry with heat. The rope should be flaked loosely on the floor and left to dry. Nylon and polyester ropes are not typically heat-set, and there is great risk that the sheath and core will shrink differently, causing distortion and structural damage to the rope.

The following additional experience was volunteered by professional riggers:

Washing won’t make splicing easier. Old double-braid is difficult to splice, and washing doesn’t change that. Polyester remains too stiff even if treated with fabric softener.

Washing machines don’t like nylon double-braid. Nylon double-braid is subject to herniation and destruction during the machine-washing process. Never machine wash a new or nearly new nylon dock line!

Bleach is very bad (again). This one is worth repeating. Each spring, riggers are asked to re-do splices that have come loose after bleach ate the stitching and whippings that secured the splices. Without a few key stitches, a splice will be milked apart in 30 minutes of agitation.

The Marine Ropes We Tested

Several hundred feet of decrepit dock lines were collected as part of a Chesapeake Bay area marina cleanup program; most of these lines had been in place for 10 to 20 years, strung between slips, abandoned by former owners and left hanging, or dropped to the bottom. Several hundred feet of used but good condition polyester, double-braid line (New England Ropes Stay-Set) were donated by a local rigging company. All of these lines were cut up into manageable lengths and subjected to a variety of machine cleaning methods.

Some were barely dirty, while others were nearly twice their original diameter, encrusted with all manner of marine life. While in some cases we were able to recover usable line from apparent trash, in many cases old dock lines simply disintegrated during cleaning. Polyester double braid was undamaged by any machine cycle, either visibly or by feel.

Our testing was limited to nylon dock lines and polyester double-braid. We did not perform strength tests on used lines because the histories were unknown, so the results would be of little value. We also washed several lengths of new dock line from New England Rope and Samson, as we were warned by riggers that these were particularly vulnerable to damage by machine washing. We also exposed new nylon double-braid dock lines to bleach for several fixed time periods. The ropes were then sent to New England Ropes, where they were load-tested until they broke to determine the effect of bleach on ultimate breaking strength.

This project was less about collecting scientific data than about collecting practical experience about what works and what doesn’t. We also got to spend hours practicing washing machine repair. Woo-hoo! Thats testing.

More Tips on How to Clean Boat Rope

Rather than drag you through the hours of testing and washing-machine repair that our test entailed, we’ll focus on what we learned. Here are the highlights:

Carefully whip or melt the end of every rope before washing. A few whippings came off, and the mess was impressive; three-strand line often unlaid to fuzz for several feet, until the first tight coiling restricted it. Double-braid fuzzed for at least a few inches. We also proved that this fuzz and bits could effectively jam a washing machine pump. Although a pillowcase reduces cleaning effectiveness, it prevents frayed bits of rope and heavy dirt from damaging the machine.

Pre-soaking allows more gentle cleaning. If the lines are heavily soiled with marine growth or algae, presoak them in a bucket of hot water with a regular dose of mild detergent for an hour. This is safe and very effective. Agitate by hand for a few minutes at the end of the soaking period, gently apply a scrub brush to the bad spots, and dump the water. This allows a much gentler cycle to achieve the same result, and the heaviest dirt is removed before placing the rope in the pillowcase, which reduces the amount of dirt trapped in the pillowcase during washing. Do not pre-soak with harsh detergents or bleach. These stronger cleaning agents are not needed and can cause significant damage.

Use the gentlest cycle that will clean the line. No used line was damaged when washed in the pillowcase, with ordinary detergent, on the gentle cycle. Washing clothes along with the pillowcase-enclosed lines helps protect the ropes during washing. The pillow will catch any heavy soil that might stain ordinary clothing. Extremely dirty ropes will have to be pre-soaked first.

Wire ties worked well for closing the pillowcases. None our test pillowcases came open. Don’t use your best pillowcases. They will take a beating.

Secure a sock over any spliced-on shackles. Secured with a wire-tie, a soft sock protects the shackle, rope, and washer.

Learn how to daisy chain your ropes. Ordinary coils frequently came apart, resulting in damaged ropes. Daisy chains fared better. The daisy chain should be slightly tighter than for ordinary storage; not tight knots, but not so loose that it shifts excessively during washing. Six-to-eight-inch loops worked well, depending on line size and stiffness.

Never machine wash new double-braid dock lines. New England Ropes double-braid failed by herniating the core through the cover every 6 to 12 inches within 10 minutes of washing, even on gentle cycle. Sampson Ropes double-braid dock line better withstood machine washing, but one of two eye splices failed (core pulled out of the splice). Its the continuous back-and-forth milking of the cover in wet soapy water that causes the trouble, something a rope never sees in real use.

Stitch all eye splices. Many eye splices survived, even on vigorous cycles. In all cases, the surviving splices were stitched to anchor the core and whipped at the join. All failures were un-whipped splices with no core anchoring stitches.

Be careful with soft-laid three-strand rope. Soft-lay, three-strand rope failed by hockling or unlaying unless washed gently in a pillowcase. Hard and medium-lay ropes faired much better. A scrub brush combined with gentle soaking is the safest method for heavily soiled dock lines. Labor intensive, but safe. Power washing blew some older ropes apart.

Polyester double-braid withstands machine washing very well . We were not able to visibly damage any quality polyester double-braid (Yacht Braid and Sta-Set) with any wash cycle or repeated washing-even uncoiled rope. This suggests that gentle washing of polyester running rigging is quite safe.

Avoid bleach (again). We tested the effectiveness of bleach by pre-treating with bleach and by bleaching after washing. In no case was a difference observable. If there is some minor mildew or algae growing on the tail of the rope, clean that portion of the rope, and set it in the sun. In our cooperative test with New England Ropes, it was found that bleach was aggressive in removing lubricants, roughening the texture of the line, and increasing stiffness, even when applied according to directions.

Acid cleaners are very damaging. We pretreated several lines with weak acid cleaners and saw no improvement; however, the lines were visibly softened and damaged, and had less than 50 percent of their original strength. Some have suggested that you need to use weak acids to remove lime deposits within the core, but there are lime removal agents (EDTA and triethanolamine) in most detergents, and these do the job safely. None of the ropes we washed had objectionable residual stiffness.

Rope cleaners aren’t worth the expense. We tested a purpose-built rope-washing devise by PMI, used by cavers and climbing schools to clean the grit out of muddy ropes. For the average sailing rope, the device was no more effective than a rinse with a hose.

Long-term findings. What about fabric softener, water repellents, and other rope treatments? We’ve found some very interesting products, but it is too soon to report on these. Durability of the treatments over time is critical, and we need time in the field to study them. Do they wash out in the rain? Do they negatively impact line clutch or winch efficiency? Do they help lines resist freezing and improve handling? We’ve treated some running rigging with various products and will report back with our findings.

Conclusions on Washing Rope

We washed yards and yards of rope to find practical answers in the form of procedures rather than product selections. These are our bottom line lessons:

Never wash a new rope. Specifically, we learned that new double-braid dock line that is washed in a machine herniates right through the shell, that splices come loose unless whipped and stitched, and that every line is vulnerable to overly vigorous washing. Give them a light scrubbing with a brush if you must, and leave it at that.

If you must wash a rope in a machine, think twice; are you willing to ruin the rope? If so, then take sensible and proven precautions: whip and stitch all the splices or they’ll come loose, whip or thoroughly melt and fuse all rope ends, cover shackles with old socks to protect the machine and the shackle, always coil tightly or daisy chain the rope, and package the rope in a pillowcase. Skip the pillowcase and expect both rope and machine damage; we experienced both. And certainly, use the gentle cycle. If the gentle cycle doesn’t do, soak first and then scrub a bit by hand.

As for soaps, cleaners, and chemicals, we learned ordinary laundry detergents at ordinary doses are fine for older ropes (remember-you shouldn’t be washing young ropes) and an extended soak in a mild detergent really helps soften stains without risking damage. Bleach didn’t do much that the sun wont do and poses much greater risk. Acid is deadly to ropes; don’t even consider it.

When we followed these simple rules, the ropes were undamaged and results often surprisingly good.

VALUE GUIDE: Old-Line Cleaning Test

Our testing matrix focused on four basic questions: Is the cleaning effectiveness of ordinary detergents and gentle detergents much different? Were there any differences if we used vigorous or gentle cycles? Could we protect the rope from damage by coiling and packing it in pillowcases? What effects do harsh cleaners have on the ropes?

Cleaners: We didn’t see measurable difference in cleaning effectiveness between Woolite and Tide. Everything stated in the lessons learned regarding Tide applies to Woolite.

Cycles: It became pretty obvious as we ran through the batches, that unless a gentle cycle was chosen, we risked serious rope damage unless every precaution was taken. The data clearly reflect this. The cleaning wasn’t much better on vigorous cycles when compared to ropes that were presoaked and daisy-chained. We eventually stopped vigorous cycle testing because of the damage it caused to the ropes and the washing machine.

Packaging: Pack all ropes in old pillowcases. We tested daisy-chained and coiled ropes side-by-side; daisy-chained ropes consistently came out cleaner and with less evidence of core slippage. When washing heavily soiled ropes, the pillowcase would interfere with cleaning since the heavy dirt couldn’t escape; if you have lines that are severely encrusted with marine growth, pre-soak, gently brush off the heavy growth, and then wash on the gentle cycle in a pillowcase. The effectiveness of pre-soaking was remarkable and the risk of damage to a sound rope when using this approach was very low.

Aggressive Chemicals: Stay away from strong cleaning chemicals. New England Ropes donated lengths of dock line, which they pre-stretched to simulate initial use. We then soaked them in a number of different bleach solutions, simulating real practices, rigger horror stories, and manufacturer horror stories. Although the damage wasn’t catastrophic, it was material. One practical problem encountered is that rinsing bleach from half-inch thick rope is very difficult. It was never clear how much bleach we left in the ropes, in spite of repeated and vigorous rinses. We also noticed that bleach simply didn’t do much that the sun wouldn’t do. Aluminum and grease stains did respond to bleach, as we saw in the polyester halyard we washed and bleached. As for acids—some suggest weak acids to remove lime deposits—we found battery acid would eat nylon rope in half in minutes, not hours, and weaker acids were still more damaging than bleach.

The importance of carefully whipping any eye-splices became apparent early on in the testing.

Fully 70 percent of our test samples, including new and used line from New England Ropes and Samson Ropes, experienced failure of pre-spliced eyes (see Splice Failure table). The buried portion of the core worked its way out of the main line and into the eye, where it carried zero load. In some cases, these failures were scarcely visible, while in others, the tail was exposed.

Since it takes only a few minutes to stitch a splice. Why risk the chance of failure?

We also noted that new braided lines tended to herniate (see New- Line Cleaning table). The continuous back-and-forth milking of the cover in wet soapy water is what causes the trouble, something a rope never sees in real use.

LINE CARE: New-Line Cleaning Test

Line care: splice failure.

We investigated the effects of the commonly used, yet potentially highly destructive bleach on rope strength. Samples of New England Ropes half-inch nylon dock line were pre-stretched 10 times to about 10 percent of rated strength (850 pounds) to simulate initial use. They were then treated with bleach, as presented in the table above. Samples that were treated more than one cycle were allowed to dry and set for 24 hours in a dry state before the next cycle. The samples were then pulled 10 times to about 50 percent of rated strength (4,250 pounds) before being pulled to failure.

Simple washing reduced the strength of the line 7 percent; the removal of spinning lubricants likely reduced the strands’ ability to equally share the load. Bleach, whether applied as concentrate for 20 minutes or as an overnight soak, reduced the line strength an additional 4 percent. Most destructive was repeated bleach and dry cycles, reducing strength up to 18 percent beyond simple washing. We presume this is because it was very difficult to completely remove the bleach at the end of each cycle—ropes are very thick in comparison to clothing—and as a result, the bleach dried in place, increased in concentration, and did more damage.

Samples of each type were retained for testing in one year. Will additional time, just sitting and aging, make a difference? We’ll let you know.

Riggers report bleach-destroyed lines every spring. It seems probable that older lines may be more vulnerable to damage than new line.

LINE CARE: Bleached Line* Breaking Strength

• Animated Knots
• Bluewater Ropes
• New England Ropes
• Samson Ropes
• Yale Cordage

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

I highly recommend using a mesh laundry bag instead of a pillowcase. The mesh allows water to circulate and crud to escape.

1. I use mesh laundry bags instead of pillow cases. Works just as well, and water can flush in and out. 2. Unless really soiled, just using fabric softener gets the salt and basic grime out, in my experience. If I use soap, I need to add at least one rinse cycle or a washing without soap to really get the line back. 3. Re your comments on whipping splices. I have never decided whether it is better to whip a splice at the throat (hold splice in one spot, but negates some of the Chinese-finger-puzzle effect, or to whip it toward the end of the buried portion, but that allows movement at the throat. Which is better?

So how do you clean a mooring line that is full of weed and shel growth then? This can happen within 2 months in the Caribbean.

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The 10 Best Small Washing Machines For Boat (2022 reviews)

• Date : February 07, 2023
• Categories : Portable Clothes Washing Machines

Our Top Picks:

Best overall: nictemaw small washing machine for boat.

• They will be inspected one by one for water leakage before they leave the factory.
• It is too expensive and inconvenient to wash clothes in the laundry shop.
• This is made with great customer service and has a water inlet design.
• This came with tons of extra stickers too to write on.

Best For Clean Clothes: Giantex Small Washing Machine For Boat

• This is perfect for power cord, it is relatively quiet and has a convenient design.
• This is great for liquid soap, washes well, it is pretty fast and has a moveable design.
• This is a great little washer and the spinner is awesome.
• This cleans wonderfully, but impossible to fill with the included fill hose.

Best For Someone: Laundry Alternative Small Washing Machine For Boat

• This is great for washing intimates at home or that "one sweater" that's hand washed.
• This is great for washing out hot yoga clothes.
• This is a wonderful device for easing that job.
• It is a fairly good buy at $40.

Best For Travel Trailer: Super Deal Washing Machine

• This is dry in a few hours and ready to use long before bed time.
• This is perfect for a camper or an apartment.
• The machine can become off kilter if over filled with clothes.
• This saves water, it is perfect for single living and has a durable design.

Best For Gas Burner: Rovsun Small Washing Machine For Boat

• This makes sure that there is enough room for clothes to be agitated properly.
• The machine may also glide across the floor at times upon initial spin.
• Professional household appliance solution provider for catering to your demands accurately.
• This can hold a good amount of clothes, especially if there are thin pieces of clothing.

Best For Boat: Giantex Washing Machine

• It is great to have the machine actually automatic.
• This will fill, wash, spin and drain all on its own.
• This hits the side and starts tearing itself apart.
• This does 2 full male outfits very well.

Best For A Portable Washing Machine: Suncoo Small Washing Machine For Boat

• This little machine does exactly what it says it does.
• This can be used for customer service and it is used for the perfect sizes.
• This is a great little portable washing machine.
• This is used for power cord, It makes for a great gift and has a clean design.

Best For Felting Hand Knits: As Seen On Tv Small Washing Machine For Boat

• This is small and discrete and can easily be stored away in the closet.
• This is great for making the feel.
• This includes carrying a handle for easy transportation and stores away discretely when not in use.
• The knobs for turning the washer on for x number of minutes.

Best For Dorms: Zeny Small Washing Machine For Boat

• This lets it spin, it is made with great washing and has a space-saving design.
• This is built for powerful performance and has an excellent design.
• This is very light weight, but the drainage pipe is extremely short.
• This is easy to store, it allows for great ideas and has new designs.

Best For Good Wash: Super Deal Small Washing Machine For Boat

• This takes about 5 gallons per wash.
• This is a plastic tub, so really hot water may warp it.
• This will hold a lot of clothes.
• It is good for spinning is a salad.

NarrowBoats & Washing Machines! What to Do?

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Living on a narrowboat can be challenging at times, what with all the small chores you need to do. Filling the water tank, doing engine checks before a cruise, wiping off your solar panels… I could go one 🙂 Add to that washing your clothes, and you may be starting to wonder why you bothered living on a narrowboat in the first place 🙂 So today I hope to give you some advice I have picked up over the years about washing machines and narrowboats.

Please note: throughout this article, any products I highlight can be viewed over at Amazon by clicking on the image.

What Type of Washing Machine Should I Get?

Marina dwellers.

If you are permanently in a marina or on a mooring with an electric hookup, the world is your oyster pretty much! You can pretty much buy any normal household washing machine. I would just buy one that is compact and energy efficient as far as washing machines go.

Just be aware that any time you are away from your land based electric hook up you will not be able to use your washing machine.

Take, for example, the Bosch washing machine I found below. Yes, this is an A+++ rated washing machine for efficiency, but it is still operating at 2300watts. Another naughty appliance that some boaters have and use for a cheeky five minutes here or there is a microwave. A typical microwave is rated at around 800 to 1000 watts and is running much less time than a washing machine! This is why I would only recommend a traditional washing machine if you are in a permanent mooring with electric.

Continuous Cruisers

I have seen some ‘crazy’ continuous cruisers trying to use normal washing machines on their narrowboats, but I would never recommend it. It will quickly turn into a power guzzling nightmare in my opinion.

Instead, there are several options I would recommend for people who are often on the cut and have a more limited amount of power available!

Breathing Mobile Washer

I have been using this Breathing Mobile Washer for many years and absolutely love it. You may look at the thing and wonder how the hell it works, but it is actually pretty simple.

You fill a regular bucket with your clothes and add water and your washing liquid of choice. Then use the ‘wand’ to pump the contents up and down in the bucket maybe 10 times or so. Leave for a few minutes, rinse out your clothes and then refill with fresh water and a little fabric softener. Leave for a while, then drain and hang up your clothes to dry.

To give you an idea, I live in a household with two people and we usually have to do around three loads a week with our regular bucket size. Of course, you can buy a bigger bucket if you would prefer. A lot of people are skeptical about this way of washing clothes, but I think it is perfect for a narrowboat. No electricity needed, cheap cost and much easier than other methods of hand washing clothes.

The only downside is that you don’t have any way to dry your clothes, so you will need a good amount of space to hang them up to dry. If this is something you worry about, I would couple this method with a compact clothes dryer rather than buying a full on washing machine.

One example is this 1200 watt (about half the wattage of the regular washing machine above) mini tumble dryer. This is still going to be tough to run when cruising the canals, but more doable than a full on washing machine.

An even better drying solution to match with the Breathing Mobile Washer would be a gravity clothes spinner. The one below claims to only use 30 watts of power per spin cycle. You can buy hand cranked clothes spin dryers, but all the ones I found online had horrible reviews, so this seems to be a better alternative 🙂

Leisure Direct Mini Twin Tub

Another option for continuous cruisers other than the Breathing Mobile Washer is the portable washing machine. The one below has a load capacity of around 3.6KG for washing and 2.5KG for drying. Their compact nature means they are one of the more low power options for a narrowboat washing machine, although they will still require some careful power management to not leave you powerless at the side of the cut.

Personally, these appliances are too cheap and plasticky for my liking, but I do know some boaters that swear by them.

Think Gizmo Portable Washing Machine

This portable washing machine below is similar to the one above, but is just a little more expensive and seems a bit less cheap and plasticky.

Any More Tips About Narrowboating and Washing Clothes?

The most important thing is that your waste water (or grey water) is going to be put straight into the canal. Therefore, you MUST use an eco friendly washing liquid and fabric softener. Otherwise, you are contaminating the canal for everyone else every time you do a load of washing.

What About 12v Washing Machines?

Good luck finding a 12 volt washing machine, they are much harder to find than even a 12v fridge!! Of course, this would be perfect for continuous cruisers, as they wouldn’t have to waste even more energy on the conversion process. But I am yet to find a decent 12 volt compact clothes washing device readily available!!

What About Laundrettes?

Using a good laundrette would save you all the hassle of having any kind of washing machine or device on your boat. These can be good if you are staying in one location and know a laundrette nearby, something that is hard to do when you are continuous cruising. Also, you might be surprised how much a laundrette would end up costing you if you used it regularly.

How Would I Wash Clothes on a Narrowboat?

When all is said and done, for me personally I would stick with the Breathing Mobile Washer and a bucket! Uses much less space, no power, and washes clothes well. I personally don’t mind having to hang my clothes up to dry, it just takes a little planning. Granted, this can be somewhat annoying in Winter!!

I know that a lot of other people would want the convenience of some type of electric washer, this is why I have provided some viable options for that. If you have your own experience of washing machines and narrowboats, I would love to hear all about it in the comments section below.

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2 thoughts on “NarrowBoats & Washing Machines! What to Do?”

Hi There. I thought I would share my experiences of laundry appliances that I have bought/used in the past 8 years of being a liveraboard narrowboater. I ruled out of having a full size washing machine due to high power drain & the excessive drain on the water tank. I purchased a mini electric all in one washing machine with a 8kg load capacity which cost approximately £100. It was ultra fiddly, not capable of washing any more than a couple of small items at a time & the spin cycle was poor & laundry items were still dripping wet when spin finished & so had to be repeated. The machine was extremely noisy & because it could only wash such a small amount at a time (2 t-shirts or a pair of pyjamas & a couple of pairs of socks) I gave up on it as it was quicker & easier to wash such items by hand. Forget the idea of buying one of these machines if you want to launder items like jeans, bedding & towels. I then purchased a slightly bigger twin tub machine that came recommended which was capable of washing slightly more small items & had a better spin but it was also noisy & mine kept breaking down & so it had to be returned which was a nuisance to do & I requested a refund because I didn’t like it enough to have a replacement. My third purchase was a Breathing Mobile Washer which works really well, it doe’s a good enough job of cleaning your clothes & large laundry items but obviously it is very time consuming & hard work!!. I would chose it over the mini electric ones though. I am now lucky enough to be moored up (long term bankside) on the outskirts of a small town that has a launderette & so I just pay it a quick visit when needed which is a god send. On the upside, with camping etc becoming more & more popular there seems to be an abundance of new types & models of ‘mini appliances’ on the market which is good. It’s always wise to shop around & especially important to read buyers comments. Happy hunting & best regards. Cindy.

Wow Thanks for your helpful and informative comment Cindy! Good to hear your experiences, washing clothes on a narrowboat can be quite a challenge 🙂

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