How to trim the sails on a Lagoon 42 cruising catamaran
Here are some basic tips for sail trimming on our Lagoon 42 catamaran Blue Buddha. Although some of these tips are unique to the Lagoon 42 sail configuration, they apply to most cats with aft mast configurations like most new Lagoons. Feel free to ask questions via the comments features.
Trimming the mainsail for performance
Note: The stock sail plan for the L42 is unbalanced resulting in an underpowered jib and significant weather helm. To address this issue and improve performance, the main needs to be slightly underpowered through reefing and/or increasing twist as described below. If the boat does not feel balanced and the weather helm is significant, your main is overpowered and needs to be adjusted.
The procedure to trim the mainsail varies based on whether you will be going mostly upwind or downwind and whether you have moderate or strong winds.
Going upwind in moderate winds (<18knots): the standard procedure to trim the mainsail when on a beam or reaching is to center the traveler and trim the main sheet as needed until the upper tell tails fly nicely. Then adjust the angle of a tack, as needed, with the traveler (not the main sheet). You use the traveler instead of the mainsheet because moving the traveler will have less impact on sail twist than adjusting the mainsheet. By making adjustments with the traveler, you will be able to maintain the correct twist for the wind speed.
Going upwind in strong winds (>18knots): start with the traveler 2 feet (60cm) to windward of the centerline, center the boom (sheet in). The traveler is placed to windward so that the boom is high when centered and the top of the main twists to spill air in heavy wind. If you need more twist simply move the traveler more to windward and ease the sheet so that the boom remains centered. When bearing off, simply ease the traveler as needed.
Going downwind in strong to moderate winds (<20 knots): start with the traveler halfway between the center line and the leeward end of the traveler, then ease the main sheet until the sail barely touches the shrouds.
Going downwind in strong winds (>20 knots): weather helm is especially noticeable when downwind in strong winds. Reef early and deeply to control the main’s power. You also need to flatten the main’s draft and increase twist to depower the sail. The L42 does not have enough controls to easily flatten the draft but you can increase twist by moving the traveler to windward (even as much as centerline but not past it) and easing the sheet so that the boom returns to its original location.
PRO TIP: Think of the traveler as having two functions: 1) changing the angle of attack (by changing the boom location on a horizontal plane) and 2) changing the sail’s twist (by changing the boom height). When you move the traveler without moving the mainsheet , you are using the traveler primarily to change the angle of attack because you will be moving the location of the boom on the horizontal plane. When you do this the twist will remain mostly intact. However, if you move the traveler while also manipulating the mainsheet , you are using it primarily to impact twist by lowering or raising the boom. What do I mean by “manipulating the sheet”. I mean taking in or easing the mainsheet as you move the traveler so that the boom stays at the same angle of attack but it will move up or down on a vertical plane. Here is how you increase or decrease twist: to increase twist you want to raise the boom. You do this by increasing the distance between the traveler and the desired boom location (angle of attack). So for example, if I want the boom to be centered but I want to increase twist, I would move the traveler to windward and ease the mainsheet so that the boom stays centered but at a higher location. The higher boom opens the top of the sail. To decrease twist, you want to lower the boom height. You do this by reducing the distance between the traveler and the desired boom location. In the example above, I would move the traveler to leeward while taking in the mainsheet so that the boom angle of attack is in the original location but at a lower height. The main sheet will then be tight, which would lower the boom and close the top of the main (reducing twist).
Avoid main-only sailing
If you try to sail Blue Buddha with the mainsail only in higher winds (>15 knots), you will quickly realize that the boat does not want to bear away (i.e., does not turn away from the wind) and will instead strongly fight you to turn to windward (excessive weather helm). This will happen even when you have a very flat main. To avoid excessive weather helm, simply do not sail with the main only and instead always deploy the jib after rising the main. The reason for this is due to the design of the boat. The location of the mainsail in the Lagoon 42, and similar new Lagoons, causes the position of the Center of Force to be significantly aft of the midpoint of the boat. The center of force is the location on the side of the boat where the sideways wind force is concentrated. If this location is too aft of the midpoint, the wind is essentially pushing the stern of the boat to leeward, which turns the bow of the boat into the wind. This is what creates weather helm. To fix this, you need to move the center of force forward and the easiest and most effective way to so is to deploy the jib. If you still experience significant weather helm after deploying the jib, your main is still overpowered and you can follow the tips below on how to reduce weather helm.
Excessive weather helm reduces your speed
Read this article on weather helm on the L42 for more information.
When the boat has excessive weather helm, the rudder will be open trying to keep the boat on course and will essentially act as a brake that will significantly slow down the boat. The Lagoon 42 has an underpowered jib and an aft main, which results in a very aft center of force and a perfect storm for weather helm. Thus, addressing whether helm is necessary for most points of sail and most wind speeds (although you will see an increase in weather helm as the wind speed increases). You can determine the degree of weather helm by looking at the center mark of the helm. It should not be turned more than 45-70 degrees to leeward to keep a straight course. If you see the mark at 90 degrees or more, then you have excessive weather helm and your speed is suffering. Here are the three key tips to move the center of force forward and decrease weather helm:
- Never sail with main only on the L42.
- Take another reef on the main. At 18+ knots, reefing the main will actually produce higher speeds because it will significantly reduce weather helm (see reefing guide below).
- Depower the main by increasing twist. To increase twist, you need to raise the boom. You do this by increasing the distance between the traveler and the desired boom location. For example, if you want the boom centered, you move the traveler significantly to windward of the center line (2-3 feet) and ease the main to keep the boom centered. This will cause the boom to rise increasing twist on top of the sail and spilling wind. See Pro Tip above.
Reducing main sail power in gusts
As I mentioned above, when the wind is above 18 knots the traveler should be to windward of the center line and the boom should be centered. In a sustained gust, ease the traveler up to the centerline. This will lift the boom slightly, increase twist, and drop some wind from the top of the main. If you need to spill more wind, ease the main sheet. Do not ease the traveler past the centerline in this situation as this increases mainsheet tension that flattens the sail preventing wind from being spilled. The reason why you ease the traveler to the center line but not beyond has to do with the shape of the traveler in relation to the boom swing. Because the traveler is straight, when the boom is moved from the centerline with the traveler the distance between the traveler cart and the gooseneck increases. This forces a tightening of the main sheet lowering the boom, which increases leech tension and flattens the sail. Although you want flat sails in strong winds, you want to increase twist to spill wind during gusts.
Controlling the twist of the jib
Blue Buddha is rigged with a self-tacking jib which can be difficult to properly shape without a proper clew board. If your jib has a clew board, then you increase twist by attaching the jib in the lower clew attachment points. If you want to decrease twist, you connect the jib to the highest points, which increases leech tension.
If your self-tacking jib doesn’t have a clew board, the only thing you can do is play with the self-tacking track. The location of the track cart has some impact on twist but not as much as a clew board. The track works this way: Move the track to windward to increase twist and to leeward to decrease twist. How do you know if you need to increase or decrease twist? Pay attention to the tell tails and follow this technique:
- Place the track cart so that it is leeward of center.
- Trim the jib so that the lower tell tails are both flying in parallel.
- If the windward tails are flying parallel to the boat but the leeward tails are not, you need to increase twist by moving the clew cart to windward. This almost never happens.
- If the leeward tails are flying parallel to the boat but the windward tails are not, you need to decrease twist by moving the cart to leeward.
- After moving the cart, trim the jib for the lower tails and check the upper tails again.
Don’t forget to check the leech tension line . This is a cord that can be adjusted on the clew of the sail. The leech line is used to control the fluttering of the leech. It is usually left alone because it does not truly impact shape or twist enough. However, if it is completely loose, your sail will luff on top even when properly trimmed!
In our experience, the standard jib that comes with the L42 tends to have too much twist when reaching, especially at higher winds and thus requires the cart to be all the way to leeward. In fact, my experience with the L42 is that at moderate and high winds, even with the cart at the most leeward position, the jib still has too much twist for perfect trimming although the trim is “good enough” for cruising. For this reason, we most often simply leave the carts at the most leeward position when sailing as we never need to increase twist. When we replace our jib, we will make sure to get a clew board.
Tack to safely change the jib cart position
If you need to change the position of the jib cart to adjust the twist of the jib in strong winds, simply tack, adjust the cart, and then tack back.
Here is the reefing guide we used in Blue Buddha. This is different than our original guide and includes changes we made after sailing 200nm in quite strong winds (up to 30 knots).
Upwind Reefing Guide
| <18 | Full | Move to windward as speed increases, up to 60cm. |
| 18-25 | 1 reef main Full Jib | 60cm to windward. Boom centered. |
| 26-30 | 2 reef main 75% jib | 60cm to windward. Boom centered. |
| 30-35 | 3 reefs main 75% jib | Centered. Boom 1m to leeward. |
| 35-40 | 3 reefs main 40% jib | Centered. Boom 1m to leeward. |
| 40+ | 3 reefs No Jib | “Park the Boat” All the way to leeward. Sheet main hard. Helm to windward. |
Downwind Reefing Guide
| <20 | Full | Up to 1m to leeward as wind speed increases |
| 20-25 | 1 reef main Full Jib | 1m to leeward |
| 26-30 | 2 reefs main 75% jib | Fully to leeward |
| 30-40 | 3 reefs main 40% jib | Fully to leeward |
| 40-45 | No main 60% jib | Centered. Tight topping lift and main sheet. |
| 46+ | Bare Poles. Drag Drogue if surfing above 15 knots | Centered. Tight topping lift and main sheet. |
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Leave a reply cancel reply, 20 comments.
Nestor, Enjoyed the “instructions” . I have not tried the “Park the boat” and look forward to trying soon, although with my current sailing plans, not likely needed. The other instructions, I look forward to trying soon.
Thank you Wes!
Very interesting and well written. Thank you. We have a 421. I presume it’s very similar. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mike. One key difference is that the 421 has the mast located much forward than the 42, which means the 421 does not have to deal with the excessive weather helm as much as the 42.
Oscar, thanks for a really good clear article. Hope I’m not too late with this. I’m new to the L42 so learning all the systems and sail plans. One question: What mainsail do you have, the 55 sq m or the 59 sq m square top?
Sorry for the delay Eugene, we have the 55sq. The issues noted about the tendency of the main to be overpowered are even more relevant to the square top, so the need to know how to properly flatten the main is even more critical with the larger main. Best, Nestor.
Helpful!!! I have plans to charter a Lagoon 42. Will be my first time with this version. Previously I sailed 450 F, 400 and 400 S2
Thanks Alejandro. Where will you be chartering a 42?
Hi there Nestor!!! I{ve just read your weather helm note .. great! very well explained, I do love clear explanations.. I´ve learened a lot, since I have most of the times chartered monohulss, and I relized that cats are not the same ball game….
I will be sailing a lagoon 42 in Baleares, by the end of june, and beggining of july
Hi I’m Steve Bean Ive just completed my circumnavigation with World ARC and hull NO 12 Lagoon 42 Spirit of Catherine. For downwind sailing I only use 1 sail and that is the Parasailor 166 sq meters. This I fly from 180 to 120 degrees no worries about gybing dead downwind and will cope with gust unto 40 knots. From 120 to 65 degrees in wind strengths unto 18 knots apparent I use Full Main and NorthSails code 65. Above this windspeed and dependant on sea state I use full main and jib unto 25 knots of windspeed apparent. in wind speed higher than this I try not to go to windward but if I have to then I sail with Jib only no main and can sail at 55 degrees to windward apparent. cheers Steve
Hi Steve, congratulations on finishing the world ARC! Do you know if you are the first L42 to do a circumnavigation? Thanks for the tips on the Parasailor. We will definitely get one when we are ready to go. Nestor.
I have on order a Lagoon 42, and wondering re regards what code sail I should use. I see you used a code 65. I’d appreciate your thoughts on why you chose this particular sail and how you found it.
Hi, when you write ‘In our experience, the standard jib that comes with the L42 tends to have too much twist when reaching, especially at higher winds and thus requires the cart to be all the way to windward.’ the last word should actually be leeward, correct??
You are correct. Sorry I missed this comment. I’ll fix the error too. Thanks for catching it!
Expansion on your instructions for sail trim is fantastic!! Thank you so much Nancy Davis SaltAire Lagoon 42 Hull 352
Thanks Nancy!
Valuable info,thank you. New to lagoon 46,how would you reef when sailing downwind.your answer would be appreciated. Caner
Hi Caner, the 46 has the same mast aft set up as the 42 so the reefing would be very similar. We’ve found that if you don’t have a downwind sail and are using the standard jib, you have to reef the main even more aggressively than what we suggested in this post. Otherwise, the weather helm is hard to control. If we use the standard jib, we put 1 reef on the main at 15 knots and 2 at 20 knots to keep the weather helm in check. That results in faster speeds than keeping more mainsail out. However, if you have a large downwind sail that can be sailed in 15-25 knots, then full main till 20 and then 1 reef up to 25 would be ideal. Best, Nestor.
Thanks very much Nestor
Very helpful article and easily understandable, thanks for sharing.
How to Hoist the Mainsail
Back to basics sailing tips.
Here is how to hoist the mainsail on a Lagoon and similar catamarans. We walk you through what you need to do from leaving the dock to setting sail.
1. Prepare Sail Bag
- Open sail bag
- Check main halyard is attached to the head of the sail – ensure shackle is done up and secure
- Follow our predeparture checklist prior to leaving
- For manoeuvring of the dock find tips here
Factors to consider
- Wind strength – if the wind is strong you will need to pre-emptively put in reefs
- Ripple direction (a good wind indicator for experienced sailors)
2. Turn into Wind
- Ensure you have room
- Travel at low speeds (enough to be able to use the rudder but without too much wind over the deck)
- Turn on autopilot
3. Prepare sheets and halyards
- Wrap main halyard on the winch
- Open reefing lines if reefs were put in last time the boat was used
- Ensure lines aren’t tangled
- Loosen mainsheet so the wind is less likely to fill the sail
There are two ways to hoist
- Sweat and tail – a crew member will be needed to manually pull the main halyard on the mast while the captain tails the halyard, you will need to use the winch for the final part (fastest)
- Winch – single-handed and slow
- Listen – if the winch loads up or there is unusual flapping sounds it typically means something is caught
- Define Lazy Jacks – the small lines running from the mast to the boom bag which support and hold open the boom bag open
- How to know the sail is up? The winch will load up. You can also put thin whipping twine as a marker to indicate the sail is at the top of the mast.
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In-Mast or In-Boom Furling Mainsail for a Catamaran?
I was wondering if you have ever written an article about in-boom and in-mast furling for catamarans? Any experience with those systems? What are your opinions about it? If a boat did not come with such a system, can you retrofit it even though the boat was not designed with that in mind in the first place?
Answer: The Mainsail on a catamaran is the main source of power.
– by Stephen Cockcroft
The mainsail on a cat, unlike a monohull which relies heavily on the fore triangle for power, is the primary power source. The jib or genoa are less important for powering, but are good to balance the sail plan. Remember most catamarans have a fractional rig which means that the foresail is smaller than a top rigged monohull for example. So, considering the importance of a powerful mainsail, the object is to have a large roach or flat head main with a high aspect rig so that you can take full advantage of the winds aloft. Full battens help to keep the sail shape and ensure an effective and efficient sail.
In-Mast Furling Mainsail
When you have to cut a sail to be able to roll into a mast, the leech has to be cut concave, so you loose a lot of sail area. You also loose the fully battened sail, so the sail shape is never as good and the performance of the mainsail is more like a jib or genoa than a main sail. While this might be a good option for a monohull where the power source is both in the fore triangle and the main, on a catamaran this would be my absolute last choice. Some manufacturers have in-mast furling mainsails with horizontal battens so they can roll into the mast, but if this was so great then why do we not see a lot more of this? Then there is always the risk of the sail jamming in the mast and then you have a whole new set of problems. To change to an in-mast furling system, you would basically need to replace the entire rig. There were some furling systems in the early days that were tacked on to the existing mast, but it was very industrial and I advise against this.
*Picture courtesy Harken
In-Boom Furling Mainsail
If you are going to go with a mainsail furling system, the in-boom furler is a better option. When you are rolling the main into the boom it means that you can keep the full battens and have a small roach, so the sail shape issue is addressed. Consider that if there is an issue with the furler then, unlike in-mast furling, you would still be able to drop the main onto the deck like a conventional system. To change from a standard rig to in-boom furling you would not need to replace the entire rig. The boom can be replaced with the furling boom and then a track would be attached to the aft of the mast to take the bolt rope luff of the mainsail. I would say that a new main built specifically for the system would be a must so the standard main would not work.
My Personal Preference for a Cruising Catamaran Sail-Plan
My personal preference would be a fully battened mainsail with a good batten car system and a large roach with a standard head. This system, together with a set of lazy jacks and a zip up bag, is the most reliable and functional in my opinion. While I really like the flat top mainsail, there is always the issue of getting the head and top batten back into the bag since it sits at an awkward angle. There are now systems that allow you to unclip the top batten so it lies flat but it is another step that is required when stowing or deploying the mainsail.
Estelle Cockcroft
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3 thoughts on “In-Mast or In-Boom Furling Mainsail for a Catamaran?”
What about a third option; a boom furling main with a hybrid sail. The lower half of the sail compatible with the boom furler, and the top side of the sail fully battened and full roach. This way you could easily reef without leaving the cockpit while shorthanded. When dropping the main you roll the lower half and drop the rest. This will leave you with less than 50% of your sail to handle and stow. Lot easier for short hand sailing a big cat. Would this work?
That seems like a great option to me, but I am not a rigger. The ability to reef a main and stay in the cockpit would be very important to me.
Hi Gary, yes we find that some of our clients prefer that option. You will not get the best sail shape but handling is a lot easier.
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COMMENTS
In this episode, we're going to be looking at reefing and why you use your reefing lines, how the single line reefing on a Lagoon 42 is run and the processes...
Here is how to hoist the mainsail on a Lagoon and similar catamarans. We walk you through what you need to do from leaving the dock to setting sail. NOTE: Pa...
Re: reefing the main sail at a catamaran. On our lagoon 42 TPI the numbers are basically 25 knots reef 1, 30 knot reef 2, 35 knot reef 3, above is reducing headsail. (apparent wind speed, any heading) What we actually do is exactly the same as monos. We reef because of weather helm.
I have a 46' Lagoon catamaran with all 3 mainsail reefs rigged for single line reefing. This is great for reefing and makes things fairly fast and easy. ... Part of the problem is that with a (very) roachy main sail, the reef points are all pretty far aft so the lines fall off the back. After dropping the sail I go aft and tuck the lines in the ...
Why to reef? The reason we reef on a catamaran like this is to reduce the stresses and strains on the rig. As the wind builds the pressure in the shrouds and the forestay and the whole structure of the boat is increased, so we decrease the sail area using something called single line slab reefing on the Lagoon 42 which reduces the windage on the rig and also reduces the tension in the shrouds ...
Here are some basic tips for sail trimming on our Lagoon 42 catamaran Blue Buddha. Although some of these tips are unique to the Lagoon 42 sail configuration, they apply to most cats with aft mast configurations like most new Lagoons. Feel free to ask questions via the comments features. Trimming the mainsail for performance
Lowering the Mainsail. 01m 07s. Main halyard - This is attached to the top of the sail (the top, triangle part of the sail) and this pulls the sail all the way up to the top of the mast. In order to get the sail down, we are letting this go, allowing the line to drop the sail. Run the line through your fingers once just to make sure that ...
David Calvert has been sailing and racing catamarans and trimarans for years and is the owner of Calvert Sailmakers LLC, which specializes in building sails for multihulls of all sizes. MHS Fall 2017. Modern cruising catamarans and trimarans have unique requirements in terms of sail design and construction. The reason for this stems from the ...
Here is how to hoist the mainsail on a Lagoon and similar catamarans. We walk you through what you need to do from leaving the dock to setting sail. 1. Prepare Sail Bag. ... marking a significant milestone—Lagoon Catamarans' 40th Anniversary. This grand celebration unfolded globally over the same weekend, featuring 25 events around the ...
Lagoon 440 - High Roach Mainsail. Lagoon 440 - High Roach Mainsail. US$5,200.00. Crosscut Full Batten High Roach Mainsail. Offshore Sailing Quality 9. • High Quality 12.89oz. Dacron with heavily reinforced corners. • 3 Rows of Reef Points. • Tell Tales, Leech Line and Sail Bag Included.
The Lagoon catamaran company first introduced an open flybridge design with its Lagoon 440 and sold hundreds of them over several years. Once that business was rolling along well, they changed the design to create the 450—and already. ... We did have the optional square-top mainsail on our boat in lieu of the standard full-batten main ...
An architectural achievement, the Lagoon 42 is a catamaran with an ambitious design and attractive interior spaces. Step aboard and set sail for an ocean of serenity and pleasure. ... Square top mainsail (opt.) 59m² / 635 sq.ft; Self-tacking jib 35m² / 377 sq.ft; Code 0 (opt.) 78m² / 839 sq.ft; Motorisation - standard 2 x 57 CV / HP;
The Lagoon 440 was built from 2004 through to 2010 with a total of 423 built. You may be able to purchase from Lagoon, but my guess would say probably easier and cheaper and quicker to go aftermarket. Additionally, does there need to be a swivel on the block at the masthead? Halyard exits at top of mast over a block down to a swiveling block mounted just above fore stay attachment on mast.
The Lagoon 51 is an amalgam of smart new additions combined with the best features from past models. Over 300 hulls of the previous 50 were sold, and if that's any indicator, the Lagoon 51 is likely to ring the sales bell loud and clear. LOA 50' 4". Beam 26' 7". Draft 4' 6". Sail Area 1,646 sq ft w/square-top mainsail.
Answer: The Mainsail on a catamaran is the main source of power. - by Stephen Cockcroft. The mainsail on a cat, unlike a monohull which relies heavily on the fore triangle for power, is the primary power source. The jib or genoa are less important for powering, but are good to balance the sail plan. Remember most catamarans have a fractional ...
The Lagoon 50 is a recreational catamaran, built predominantly of vacuum infused polyester fiberglass, with wood trim. The design is solid fiberglass below the waterline, with a balsa core above the waterline and in the deck. It has a fractional sloop rig, with a deck-stepped mast, a single set of swept diamond spreaders and aluminum spars with ...
Ran a square top for 5 years full time cruising with the Lagoon set up (actually it is a patented system by Incidences sail makers) and a 900 sq ft square top and 2:1 halyard. Never a problem reefing, raising or lowering.The dyneema strop holds the head in and releases when it gets to the stack pack when there is little tension on the luff.
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My main sail is so heavy, that even with 2:1 leverage, my powerful Lewmar electric winch struggles to pull the luff tight. ... 450: L450 Square Top Mainsail. PaulinOz: Lagoon Catamarans: 4: 28-12-2016 21:50: General Info: Square top mainsail for L421: BambooSailor: Lagoon Catamarans: 1: 27-01-2013 13:41:
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With no back stay a multi main can be very large mainsail. Considering that much of the power in the main comes from the roach area an in mast furler is not a good rig for a multi. Monos can get by with furling mains by having larger headsails kinda the opposite of multis. 04-06-2016, 06:53. # 5.