cat ketch trimaran

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Why a Cat Ketch?

Posted by Graham Byrnes on Jan 1st 2015

You may have noticed that B&B Yacht Designs has several models that are cat-ketch rigged. For example the Core Sound 15 pictured below sailing at our annual messabout.

Perhaps you are not familiar with this rig, and think that it looks “old-timey.”

And, perhaps you think that this rig is not as “efficient” as a “modern” sloop rig.

First let us dispel some common myths about the cat ketch rig.

The rig type is, indeed, one that has been around for many years, and one which was greatly favored by the watermen of the East Coast before the age of power. The rig fell out of favor not because it was inefficient, but because working sailboats became obsolete, and the recreational sailboats which have been built since, are influenced not by the need for efficiency and speed, but by an artificial rating rule. Such rules, made to “equalize” boats on a race course, often penalized the very things which made a boat fast. So designers’ of “modern” boats designed boats that could get the greatest benefit from the lowest rating – and not necessarily the best and fastest boat they could have designed. When ratings were not an issue, the cat ketch has been a rig favored for it’s gentle ways. Several designers in recent decades have utilized this rig to great advantage on some contemporary, even avant-garde designs. In head to head competition, cat ketches have performed well. Our boats have an admirable racing record, although they were never designed as racers.

What are the unique advantages of the cat ketch rig and why have we chosen it for some of our designs?

Before going on, let us say: We are not missionaries for this rig. It is not a trademark of our designs in that it in no way represents the rig on the majority of our plans. It is however, a rig, which we have found to be extremely suitable for certain types of boats. So, it fits with our philosophy of making each design work as well as it can for it’s type, while retaining a cost effective approach without compromising quality or performance.

The well-designed cat ketch rig is a simple, inexpensive and balanced rig.

The sail plan spreads the sails along the length of the boat on two masts. The low center of effort afforded by the fore and aft, rather than upward, spread of sail, produces less heeling force.

Free standing masts require no rigging; making them quick to rig and unrig, easy to reef and inexpensive. They also offer an innate degree of safety: the masts bend during gusts, flattening the sail and de-powering the rig.

Each spar is lighter, smaller and easier to handle. This is really important with beach boats, day boats and other dry-sailed craft. It only takes a few minutes to rig. In our designs, up to about 20′, stepping the masts can be accomplished by one person. Being able to get in and out of the water quickly and easily makes sailing so much more accessible. If you have to contemplate an hour of preparation just to go sailing; it isn’t likely that you will go sailing for an hour! In today’s busy world you may have only a few days when you are free to take the whole day for sailing. On the other hand, we all have the odd hour or two of free time, and when the boat can be launched and retrieved in minutes, you can spend that hour sailing. Our larger or cabin boats utilize hinging masts in tabernacles that can also be setup quickly with one person

Docile. That is probably the best word for the behavior of this rig. Your days of yelling, “prepare to tack”, “tacking” – “let it go”, and “pull it in” are over. When you want to tack, you simply put the helm over and off you go on your new course. The sails will tack themselves. This may be a little un-nerving at first. If you have been sailing only sloops or ketches with headsails up until now, you will feel like you ought to be doing something. We’ve noticed however, that it takes the average sailor only about 3 tacks to get used to this laid back approach. By the 5th tack they are enamored and begin to aimlessly tack back and forth with a great big grin on their faces. The crew is equally happy, because they haven’t moved a muscle or been yelled at during the whole procedure. As delirious as the tack may make the laid back crew, they will really get excited by the jibe. Jibing has traditionally been a recipe for disaster, with such fanciful names as the Chinese jibe, invented to describe just one of the multiple possibilities for complications. In the cat ketch rig, jibing requires exactly the same degree of panic as the tack we just discussed…you just put the helm over, pull in some excess sheet if you wish and let her slide out the other side.

Upwind. The cat ketch rig is handy and comfortably close-winded. Provided you have a good hull under you (never blame a good rig for a poor hull design), she will go to weather nicely.

Reaching & Running: Since the sprit bisects the sail load, the area above and below the sprit are balanced. So when the sheets are eased, the sails go out and stay out with none of the collapsing and filling that is the bane of the normal jib behind main. Nor is there the twisting off of the typical mainsail, when the boom lifts and causes a “death roll” in strong winds. Somewhere between a very broad reach and a run, the main sail will begin to shake and lose power. This is not a problem, just turn off the wind a bit further, jibe the main across and return to your desired course.

As you have already learned, jibing, the bane of most downwind sail-handlers is a snap. With a cat ketch rig you can also sail directly down wind, wing and wing. The boat feels stable and whisks along nicely. If the wind gets up and things get hairy, on an unstayed rig (which includes most smaller cat ketches) you can just let those sails go forward of the beam. This will immediately stabilize the boat. Also, the sails when they are allowed to go forward (about 20° ), will keep the boat tracking downwind, so it makes a very easy time of what would be the most delicate conditions for a sloop or cat rigged boat.

Taken to it’s extreme, you can make delicate and gentle downwind landings in any weather by just letting the sheets go and allowing your sails fly forward completely, at the same time lifting your centerboard and letting go of the rudder pennant to lift the rudder…you glide into your (shallow) landing under complete control. This is a far cry from the usual tension and chaos of a downwind landing on a blustery day.

The anatomy of the cat ketch rig:

There are two masts, one set close to the bow which is the mainsail and a mizzen which is usually near or just aft of the center of the boat. The mainsail is larger than the mizzen – although the sails are much more evenly divided size-wise than in a jib-headed ketch. (And to answer the question many ask: yes if the forward sail is smaller it is a cat schooner – not a cat ketch rig).

The sails may be of any shape – some have gaffs; others, like our designs are marconi and have sprits not booms.

We chose sprits rather than booms because they are quick to rig and cheap to build and easy to stow (smaller models use simple and available fir closet rod)…

The sprit is a diagonal spar which holds the sail between the clew and the mast – it serves the same purpose as a boom. We like it in small boats particularly – because it eliminates the boom moving across the cockpit of a small boat and eliminates the need for a boom vang. If you are in the way during the tack, the sail just slides over you harmlessly (the one exception: do not sit directly in front of the mizzen mast on the middle seat, or you could get hit with the main sheets or the clew end of the sprit).

The sprit is attached to the clew with the end poked through a loop of webbing or rope. The forward end fits into a rope which is lashed to the mast (a snotter). This controls the height of the sprit and the relative leech and foot tension. Because these are all “soft” fittings, they are easily adjustable. There is a line to a cleat so that you can adjust sail draft while underway.

Sprits may be either straight or curved. We have done some informal tests and have not found that the curved sprits are enormously superior, although some people prefer them.

We are asked if full wishbone booms are more efficient, and yes, they are – but the little bit of extra efficiency comes at the expense of simplicity and cost.

If you are a good wood worker and like laminating things, curved sprits and wishbones are a nice touch and they can be made quite pretty.

The sprits are placed on opposite sides of the sails; in other words if the mainsail has the sprit on the starboard, the mizzen will have it on the port. Although the sail flops over the sprit on one tack, it does not affect the efficiency as much as it might appear to.

Shortening sail can be accomplished in two ways. In smaller models, the simplest way is to first, remove the mizzen and place the main in the center (single) sail position (given on all our plans for this rig). If the wind continues to pipe up, change down to the smaller mizzen sail. The second way to reef – which may the most desirable on the larger models, and an option for the smaller models for those who may not be comfortable with the mast exchange, is to have normal reef points in the sail and add halyards.

The combination of the sprit rigged cat ketch and a centerboard board allows for a great deal of adjustment for balancing out the boat in any conditions. If there is some lee helm in light wind, the board can be lowered further, moving the center of lateral resistance (CLR) forward or you can adjust the sails without lowering the board – sheet in the mizzen or let out the main…or combine the three options. Weather helm? Reverse the procedure. Normally (as designed) the helm should be neutral at 8-14 knots, with an increasing weather helm as the wind increases. When the sail/board adjustments are not quite enough to neutralize the helm, you can reef. You will always be able to trim to balance the helm in any conditions, by these methods.

Some Tips for Sailing a Cat Ketch:

• Because the sprit bisects the angle of the sail, there is very little load on the sheets. A simple cleat is all you need.
• Our designs call for, and we strongly advocate the use of double ended sheets, so that no matter which side of the boat you are sitting on, you can adjust the sheet without leaving your position. (Remember this is laid-back sailing).
• In windy or gusty condition, you always have the end of your double ended sheet close at hand and if you get a strong gust and feel you have heeled to an uncomfortable angle, just let the mainsheet go to reduce wind pressure and heeling force. WARNING: Be sure that you release the mainsheet (the forward sail) first. If you let the mizzen go first, it moves the center of effort forward and the boat will bear away which will increase the pressure and heeling and could cause a capsize.
• When sailing in light air, if your sails get a vertical crease close to the mast, ease the luff tension.
• When the wind is heavier if you see horizontal crease near the mast, increase the luff tension.
• Use the snotter line to adjust the relative tension of the foot and leech, they should be evenly and equally curved. So if the leech is tight and the foot is full, lower the angle of the sprit and for a tight foot and loose leech raise the sprit angle.
• Grounded! The day will come when you will run her aground in a strong breeze and you’ll get the centerboard stuck so you can’t raise it. The boat will swing around to a somewhat beam-on position. Now in most boats you’d be in a nice pickle…but with the cat ketch, just let the main (foresail) go and the center of effort will go so far aft that she will spin around and tack – then you can re-sheet your forward sail and sail off.

Share This Article

Use of Two Masts on a Multihull

QUESTION: "Hi Mike, I live in Wellington NZ - famous for lots of wind and wild water. I have been looking at various parallel rigged cats, like the Kohler 8m duo and Jeff Schionning's 'Radical Bay', primarily from the stand point of lower centre of effort - thus increased stability and safety. My question is, 'Could a suitably designed/constructed trimaran carry a cantilever mast in each ama? And if so, would it share the same advantages/disadvantages as the same rig on a cat?'"

ANSWER: Yes, these rigs are certainly interesting for a cat and do indeed offer increased safety from lower heeling moment. This is particularly important for a catamaran as this type of boat has a sharp peak on its stability curve, meaning that it can more easily capsize, once the windward hull leaves the water.

Unstayed masts also act as a cushion against sudden gusts ... though they store this energy for delayed release. (See comment below)

As far as planting similar unstayed masts in a trimaran, it's not something that I would recommend. The loads from such a mast are pretty high and the X-section of the typical ama is just not big enough to handle them without a lot of hi-tech material built in. The relatively low depth would also mean a very high load on the lower part of the mast. I would recommend you contact Eric Sponberg on the mast design for such a rig, as he's a specialist on unstayed CF masts… www.sponbergyachtdesign.com/Masts.htm     [2018: Sorry, Eric has now retired, so you'll need to look for options]

[2020:  Eric has now transferred much of his technical info to his personal website: http://www.ericwsponberg.com

The sails and rigging would also be far out on a trimaran and not as accessible as on a catamaran. Also keep in mind that the leeward ama of a tri is often underwater or nearly so, making access to the sail for adjustments etc, a very risky, wet affair. Trimarans also generally heel slightly more that catamarans.

One other option you might wish to look at, would be to use two masts, fore and aft, like Chris White used on his trimaran Juniper.  [Scroll down Interview article with Henk de Velde for photo of Juniper] .   This is much more workable for a trimaran that on a cat. However, if you're limited to 8 metres, that's rather short for 2 masts though doable if you feel it's really the way you want to go. Keep in mind that a trimaran has a little more stability and a more gentle stability curve than a catamaran, so it's easier to predict a potential capsize situation. If you keep the mast about 1.25 - 1.3 times the overall length, and organize for easy reefing, you should be fine even in rough water.

Today there are many trimarans that are 'less skittish' than the Buccaneer 24 you say you once sailed ... and yet somewhat faster too. But trimarans are sweeter to handle in my view that most catamarans ... turning easier and having a more responsive feel at the helm. Catamarans enjoy going straight and also provide larger social areas on board for good times in port, and above 10m ... offer more private, divided accommodation.

Here's what Chris White says about his experience of trying two ketch rigs on his 52' Juniper "Two different rigs were tried on Juniper 1. An unstayed cat-ketch rig and a more powerful stayed ketch rig with rotating spars. Each has its advantages, but in a nutshell, the stayed rigs can be more powerful although they are more expensive and require more attention to sail".

When Jim Brown and Mark Hassall were invited on Juniper's maiden sail, here is what Mark wrote about his experience with the flexible, unstayed rig:  

"Though we spent the better part of the day trying to find wind. Late in the afternoon, the wind found us. The free-standing masts suddenly bent at an alarming angle and then twanged upright again. Juniper shot forward at such an incredible speed that we all grabbed at whatever was handy to keep from falling overboard! "17 knots!" yelled Chris. "My God, she went from 0 to 17 in a couple of seconds!   Have I got a boat or have I got a boat ?" ..........."It's no boat," I yelled. "It's a goddamned slingshot!"

[ Footnote:   With time, Chris found that his masts were overall too flexible as built and lost too much drive in stronger winds.    He had a choice to either replace them with unstayed masts of carbon fiber or to use more conventional rotating wing masts with stays.   He went with the latter and was pleased with the result.    After extensive cruising, Chris sold Juniper to the Dutch voyageur Henk de Velde, who did a very successful circumnavigation in the boat.  See my INTERVIEW with Henk on this website].

Hope this helps,

Now, please email your mast story to Mike Waters .

"New articles, comments and references will be added periodically as new questions are answered and other info comes in relative to this subject, so you're invited to revisit and participate." —webmaster

"See the Copyright Information & Legal Disclaimer page for copyright info and use of ANY part of this text or article"

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• Cat Ketch Sailboats

Do The Unstayed Rigs Of Cat Ketch Sailboats Really Work?

Cat ketch sailboats are instantly recognizable by their tapered masts and total absence of standing rigging. There's nothing new about free-standing rigs though; they've been around for thousands of years - the Chinese Junk being the best known example.

But we have Gary Hoyt to thank for developing these sailboats for modern day cruising boats.

Hoyt, a former Finn Olympian and Sunfish World Champion, recognised that free-standing rigs would be just as successful on cruising sailboats as they were on his racing dinghies, and set out to prove it.

1977 saw the launch of Hoyt's Freedom 40 cat ketch, of which more than 90 have been produced to date.

Hoyt's early version had aluminium masts, but the development of carbon fibre spars combining strength, stiffness and light weight enabled these sailboat designs to be brought really up to date.

All unstayed masts are keel-stepped as they rely entirely on the cantilever thus provided by the deck for support. The mast is subjected to bending moment only, with none of the compressive forces that a stayed mast has to withstand.

The flexibility of the rig means that it's impossible to get sufficient forestay tension to support a conventional jib, so any such sail is likely to be a blade type set up on a fractionally rigged forestay. More often than not headsails are dispensed with altogether and a single-masted cat rig or ketch rig used - the Freedom 40 being a notable example.

Either conventional booms or wishbone rigs are used to support the clew of the sail. The wishbone rig greatly reduces the risk of head injury from an accidental gybe - a valuable safety feature indeed on cruising sailboats of any kind. Aerodynamically this rig is very clean - few yachtsmen will lament the loss of the rigging-induced whining when it starts to blow, but it does mean there's less to grab hold of when up on deck.

Advantages of Unstayed Rigs on Cat Ketch Sailboats

• Absence of shrouds and stays means less weight aloft;
• Low centre of effort produces less heeling moment than a conventional rig;
• Flexible unstayed mast bends in strong gusts, flattening sail and de-powering it;
• Ease of tacking and jibing - just change course and the sail will flop over onto the other side of the boat without any drama;
• Running downwind is similarly stress free, with one sail out to port and the other to starboard. If the wind pipes up both sails can be eased forward, spilling the wind and steadying the boat.

Disadvantages?

It's often said that they're less efficient to windward than the Marconi Rig (the Bermudan Sloop ), but off the wind they make up for it.

However, if you take a look at this this video of a heavily reefed 40 ft cat ketch sailboat overhauling a 48 foot cutter you'll have few doubts about their windward ability!

Cat ketches clearly have a lot going for them!

Seen alongside the complexity of a conventionally rigged sailboat, it's easy to imagine that the unstayed rigs of cat ketch sailboats represent the future for cruising sailboat designs

The Cat Ketch Sailboat: A Few FAQs...

What is a cat ketch sailboat?

A cat ketch sailboat is a sailboat that has two masts, one at the very bow and one further aft, and no jib. The sails are usually triangular and attached to free-standing masts that can bend and de-power in strong winds.

How do you sail a cat ketch sailboat?

Sailing a cat ketch sailboat is similar to sailing any other sailboat, but with some differences. Here are some basic tips:

• To tack, simply turn the boat through the wind and let the sails switch sides. You don't need to touch the sheets or the tiller during the manoeuvre;
• To jibe, turn the boat away from the wind and let the sails switch sides. Be careful not to jibe too fast or too hard, as this can damage the masts or cause excessive rolling;
• To reef, lower the halyard until the desired amount of sail is left, then secure it with a cleat or a knot. You can reef either or both sails depending on the wind strength and direction;
• To trim, adjust the sheets until the sails are set at an angle that gives you maximum speed and comfort. You can also use the wishbone booms to change the angle of attack of the sails.

What are some examples of cat ketch sailboats?

Some examples of cat ketch sailboats are:

• The Freedom 40, designed by Gary Hoyt in 1977, was one of the first modern cat ketch sailboats. It has an aluminium mast forward and a carbon fibre mast aft, and can carry a small jib on a fractional forestay;
• The Herreshoff 31, designed by Halsey Herreshoff in 1979, is a classic cat ketch sailboat. It has wooden masts and wishbone booms, and can carry a spinnaker for downwind sailing;
• The Core Sound 15, designed by Graham Byrnes in 2015, is a small cat ketch sailboat. It has carbon fiber masts and conventional booms, and is suitable for beach sailing and day cruising.

The above answers were drafted by sailboat-cruising.com using GPT-4 (OpenAI’s large-scale language-generation model) as a research assistant to develop source material; to the best of our knowledge,  we believe them to be accurate.

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Herreshoff Cat Ketch 31

This handsome little cruiser sails like a dream, but owners report problems ranging from the foam-cored deck to deck hardware without backing plates..

The short-lived Cat Ketch Corporation built some unique cruising auxiliaries. They were all called Herreshoffs after their designer, Halsey Herreshoff. Built between about 1982 and 1986, they grew out of the collaboration between the companys founder, third generation boatbuilder John Newton, and Herreshoff (who likewise was the third generation in his family to enter the same profession.) Newton had been building Grand Banks trawlers in Hong Kong; Herreshoff had already designed a number of production boats. Newton had set up a Cayman Island-based corporation to build in Honduras and was looking for boats that were simple yet rewarding to sail-no winches, no headsails! He favored capabilities over amenities, simplicity over advanced technology. When it came to price he wanted to be more than competitive in the American market.

The design brief he presented to Herreshoff included:

an underbody as fast as a quarter tonner a large, open interior traditional lines above the water a split sail plan to reduce sail loads a rig that allows quick reefing to 30% of full sail area

Despite the fact that its hard to find a sailboat of any kind that ISNT faster than a 1970s vintage quarter tonner, the guidelines Newton laid down were, in large measure, met. The boats, even today, are handsome, commodious and simple to sail. A retired naval architect told us he bought a boat a year for years until he met the H-31. She is everything I ever wanted. She is IT for me. Ive found the boat of my dreams, he said.

About 100 H-31s were built, Herreshoff recalled. The company also produced an H-27, H-38 and an H-45, but the H-31 outsold them all.

We had plans for even bigger boats, said Herreshoff, but they never got built.

Originally, the boats (including almost half of the H-31s) were cold-molded of mahogany plies with wooden spars. The rest were made of fiberglass cored with Airex. (On some, the house and deck had Klegecell coring to resist heat deformation.). Almost all of the fiberglass boats had fiberglass/carbon fiber spars.

After moving from one coast of Honduras to the other and finally shipping its molds to Texas for a brief last stand with the Richard Black-designed Sparhawk 36 and an H-28, the Cat Ketch Corporation went out of business. That was about 10 years ago, and the boats are a bit hard to find. Herreshoff is the last, best link with these boats. He has, in fact, received several as donations to the Herreshoff Museum in Bristol where he refurbishes and sells them.

At first glance, the boats appear somewhat under-rigged and we feared wed find their accommodations dated and Spartan. After recently delivering an H-31 from Bristol, Rhode Island to north of Cape Cod, however, we have to admit we were wrong on both counts.

The Design Early in the 70s, Halsey Herreshoff designed the hull for the Freedom 40, the boat that Garry Hoyt conceived and marketed, and which was largely responsible for the resurgent interest in cat ketches. There is a learning curve, even for a Herreshoff, in developing a relatively untried hull form, and comparing the Freedom 40 to the boats done for Cat Ketch is one way of tracing that progression.

Both the Freedom 40 and the H-31 have hollow bows. Characteristic of Herreshoff boats all of the way back to Captain Nat, a hollow bow lets the forefoot be fine for a sharp entry angle, while above the waterline the forebody swells abruptly to gain volume enough to dampen pitching. The flaring shape of the forequarters not only provides reserve buoyancy (which helps deal with the weight of the spar stepped well forward), it also helps control spray and makes it easier for the boat to punch through chop. And it looks great. The H-31 has more of a hollow bow than the Freedom 40.

A centerboarder, the Freedom 40 needed a high ballast/displacement ratio and generous beam for her length to give her stability. The H-31, thanks to the righting moment gained by hanging 3,350 pounds of external lead on her keel, can enjoy a slimmer sailing shape. The Freedom 40s displacement/length (D/L) ratio is an admirable 208, but the H-31 weighs in with a sprightlier 175.

Halsey Herreshoff is unclear about dates or specifics, but he confirms what printed sail plans show, that the total working sail area of his H-31 grew from an original 403 sq. ft. to a subsequent 466 sq. ft. At the same time, the displacement shrunk from 8,640 pounds to 7,560 pounds. Adding sail and reducing weight are legitimate ways to improve performance. In its original configuration (small sail plan/high displacement) the H-31s sail area/displacement ratio (SA/D) was an unremarkable 15.5, well below even the Freedom 40s 16.7. Given the changes (bigger sail plan/lighter displacement) the boats SA/D jumps to 19. It would be logical if these changes reflected the move from cold-molding to cored fiberglass construction, but both sets of figures refer to construction: fiberglass/Airex core. What is clear, however, is that there are differing generations of H-31 design and generic design information doesn’t necessarily fit them all.

The boat has a long waterline (28′) and gains additional sailing length from a rudder that protrudes nearly a foot aft of the transom. More critical to her sailing performance, however, is her clean underbody sculpted from sectional shapes that afford the maximum in displacement for the minimum in wetted surface. While Halsey didnt begin with a half-model whittled and fondled into shape the way that Captain Nat used to, he might as well have. It doesn’t have to take three generations to come up with lines as fair and balanced as the H-31s, but its hard to imagine her simplicity and rightness popping into being overnight.

If there were no draft limitation I would have wanted a deeper fin, the designer said, but by giving her a draft of just 4 feet and by offering lift/drag characteristics that are optimal in the under 7-knot speed range, the long fin that Herreshoff chose makes good sense.

Herreshoff said, The skeg is there primarily to improve tracking, and she sails well, tracking straighter and pointing better than Id dared to hope.

The Rig The cat ketch is an ancient and honorable rig. Captain Cook saw canoes and proas rigged with two sails, clawlike in shape. The garvies of Barnegat Bay typically had twin sprit sails fore and aft. The majority of New Haven sharpies from as early as the 1830s were cat ketches. The rig tended to keep cost, complexity and the center of effort low, and that made it a natural for small working boats. But the problems with cat ketches, like those with catboats and cat yawls, tend to get bigger as the boats get bigger. Supporting a mast in the bows is hard to do; unstayed spars are thus almost a necessity. For a long time, no one could build a spar big enough, light enough and tough enough to do the job in a larger boat.

Nathaniel Herreshoff was the first designer known to have rigged yachts (as opposed to workboats) as cat ketches. Starling Burgess experimented early in the 20th century with unstayed rigs and Fritz Fenger, a Cornell-educated designer-yachtsman, is credited with pioneering the modern wishbone rig. According to British design guru Uffa Fox, Captain Nat was using something similar very much earlier. His 25-foot Pelican, which in 1890 Nathaniel Herreshoff called the most scientific sailboat Ive yet designed, was a cat yawl.

When Garry Hoyt was seeking freedom from winches and headsails, Halsey Herreshoff remembers, Id been working some with combining different sections of aluminum tubing into free-standing spars, but a single mast big enough for a 40-footer was worrisome. Then my father (Sidney DeWolf Herreshoff) reminded me of the cat ketches our family had already designed, and we went in that direction.

That direction proved productive. The Freedom 40 surprised a lot of people at Antigua Week and made converts in impressive numbers. Dr. Jerome Milgrams Cascade, a 37′ 6″ racer with a cat ketch rig on stayed spars, came within a whisker of winning the Southern Ocean Racing Conference. From being rarities at the beginning of the 70s, cat ketches became, by late in the decade, something of a fad. Freedom evolved new models, Nonsuch was born, and designers like Walter Scott, Yves-Marie Tanton, Eric Sponberg and Chuck Paine all offered cat ketch designs.

The keys that unlocked that development were engineering and manufacturing advances that made free-standing spars workable, and the refinement and application of the wishbone boom. Newtons Cat Ketch Corp. originally laid up laminated wooden spars that were light and durable. When it took to building fiberglass skins over a wooden mandrel and then sheathing the glass with carbon fiber, the spars were a bit heavier but much stiffer, Herreshoff said.

Most boats used the standard double wishbone boom, but I prefer the half-bone shape for simplicity and looks, he added.

In addition to removing the danger from a head-height solid boom, wishbones and half-bones remove the need for vangs, control twist (thus increasing sail efficiency), make major changes in sail shape easy and reduce mast loading.

Construction Built as long as 18 years ago by a now-defunct company, an H-31 should be suspected of having problems. A survey is always a good idea. With an H-31 its an especially good idea.

When we discussed these boats with well-known author and surveyor Alan Vaitses, he declined to recommend any of the cold-molded boats because the fiberglass that covers the hull to just above the waterline was not mechanically fastened to the wood. On the other hand, the (admittedly small) sample of wooden boat owners that we surveyed said no problem in terms of checking, leaks or delamination.

Herreshoff added, The wooden boats were lighter but less durable, especially in terms of abrasion and impact resistance, he told us. The fiberglass-Airex boats are somewhat stronger but theyre a bit heavier.

The owner of a near-original 1982 wood boat said, I had to reglue the spars when the wood glue that they used originally gave up after 13 years, but otherwise my cold-molded hull and deck have held up well. I like the warmth of an all-wood interior very much.

The fiberglass boats were built with a laminate schedule that came from my experience building production boats, Herreshoff said, describing it as graduated thicknesses getting progressively thinner from the bottom up with a thin layer of mat between roving and cloth.

None of the owners surveyed reported any hull blisters. Bulkheads are foam-fiberglass composites and in the living areas are sheathed with wood veneers. They are robust and are tabbed securely to the hull.

Several owners reported that the Airex core was not replaced with solid glass where through-hull fittings were installed. That should not have happened said Herreshoff. On the boats that have been donated to the Herreshoff Museum, he has borne the expense of pulling through-hulls and replacing the core with solid epoxy through which the fittings were re-installed.

The bolts attaching the skeg to the hull were in tough shape, one owner reported. I replaced them (there were only three) with nine new ones. Rebedded and refastened, the new skeg has been fine.

The rudder assembly, Herreshoff said, consists of an overly strong rudderstock and two hefty gudgeons as well as a bottom attachment between the skeg and rudder. In addition to affording excellent steering leverage and easy visual inspection, the outboard rudder is fitted with teak steps that make it a boarding ladder, a suggestion put forward by L. Francis Herreshoff in his book, The Compleat Cruiser.

The aluminum strips on top of the keel floors were badly pitted where the stainless steel keel bolts came through them, said a Florida owner. And the stanchions have no backing plates. They need either suitable plates to add strength and diminish loosening through use.

There are no mechanical fasteners apparent at the hull/deck joint. Deck and hull are both cored right to the edge. They are chemically bonded and then the corner is glassed, inside and out. The taping is done well-no evident seams, bubbles, or roughness. No owner surveyed reported deck leaks or crazing at the joint. Access to the joint is virtually complete fore and aft by removing the upper strake of the cabin ceiling. It is standard building practice to replace coring with solid glass where hull and deck come together. Reliance on chemical bonding alone has only recently been countenanced by standard-setters like the American Bureau of Shipping. The fact that there are no shroud loads to lift the deck in a boat with unstayed masts may go a long way toward explaining the problem-free history of the H-31 and other boats that Cat Ketch built this way.

Interior The standard layout for the H-31 emphasizes open space with the head and galley aft and a saloon/forecabin area extending forward. A second layout where the head comes between the forecabin and the saloon is better-suited to two-couple cruising. From fiddles and trim to moldings and furniture, wood is a strong point of the Cat Ketches. The availability and affordability of wood and wood workers was one of Newtons prime reasons for building in Honduras. Many owners opted for custom interiors in oak, Caribbean pine or mahogany, but even the standard teak is done with lightness, restraint and care.

On the negative side, the standard galley is cramped by the companionway ladder.

We almost didnt buy the boat for that reason, said an owner who has cruised his H-31 for seven seasons, but we did and weve redone the galley completely to suit us. We took out the oven, installed refrigeration, and use a one-burner Sea Swing as our primary cooker.

My boat came with a bulkhead table suitable for use only in a calm anchorage or at the dock; its lightly built, unstable, and it has no fiddles. We replaced it, said a New England sailor.

Headroom is 6′ 2″ at best, but there are two big hanging lockers, an abundance of drawer space and eight opening ports. The chart table arrangement is creaky but adequate.

Performance The Cat Ketch Corp. eventually installed Yanmar diesels in its boats, but many of the earlier Herreshoffs have Nanni diesels. They are reported satisfactory in terms of performance and dependability, but it seems very hard to get parts for them.

Performance under sail is where the H-31 shines. During our test sail, short-tacking up a crowded channel was ridiculously easy. The boat takes perhaps a boat length to gain steerage way in moderate air, but beyond that theres no limit to how often you can tack. And, after the fifth, tenth and twentieth tack youll feel as fresh as you did after the first. Sail to anchor in a crowded anchorage? We dropped the main, weathervaned under mizzen, lowered the anchor at our leisure, then backed down to set it by holding the sail to weather.

I keep my boat on a canal near St. Petersburg, one owner bragged. Its a fifteen-minute run under power for everyone else to get to the Gulf. I sail in and out from my dock all the time.

Handling heavy air is via a reefing progression that runs mizzen, main & mizzen; douse mizzen; double-reef main. Not only are the reefs simple to put in, but the center of effort changes very little through the whole process, according to Herreshoff.

The H-31 moves very cleanly, accelerates surprisingly fast, and has a powerful motion in waves. In winds that ranged from 0 to 15 knots, and on just about every point of sail, we found her not just lively and responsive, but fast.

Conclusions Good looks, easy sailing, open accommodation, thoughtful touches, elegant simplicity, generally superior woodwork and fast passages are the plusses we found in the H-31. The combination makes her a good value, especially at a price under $30,000. But with a belly-up builder and a host of questions surrounding her construction, however, she could come with a nasty surprise or two.

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Concept 63 Catamaran

The CONCEPT 63 Catamaran is a thoroughbred cruising catamaran, conceived as a fast, long distance cruiser for a small crew. She delivers exceptional performance under both sail and power and very comfortable accommodations.

While not currently in production, the Concept 63 is available on a custom basis. Call Chris White for details. 

The forward half of each hull is devoted to a private double cabin. Both cabins contain upper and lower bunks, a hanging locker, dresser, seat and storage spaces. Each double cabin has its own private head and shower.

Power The diesel engines are located in dedicated engine rooms, with standing headroom, and all 'round access to the engines. There is plenty of room for auxiliary machinery such as a gen set, desalinator and air conditioning, as well as a work bench and tool storage. Engine size can vary from 45HP to 100 HP. Twin 45's will yield 10 knots. The larger engines have the capacity to push this cat to 14 knots. Propellers are protected by the draft of the hull. Beaching this cat poses no problem for the props.

Dinghy Deck The aft deck is one of the most frequently used and functional spaces on the boat. It's a great outdoor work and play space, with room for out of the water dinghy stowage, fishing, organizing snorkeling expeditions and other watersports.

Safety Features As with all proper multihull designs, the Concept 63 is unsinkable. Each hull incorporates two collision bulkheads forward and a third watertight bulkhead aft. Violation of any of the watertight subdivisions means only a slight variation to boat trim or heel, typically less than 1 or 2 degrees. While not recommended, it would be possible to safely sail long distances with both bows flooded forward of the collision bulkheads.

• Concept 63 Photos
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Types of Sailboats: A Complete Guide

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Learning the different types of sailboats can help you identify vessels and choose the right boat.

In this article, we'll cover the most common kinds of sailboats, their origins, and what they're used for. We'll also go over the strengths and weaknesses of each design, along with when they're most useful.

The most common kind of sailboat is the sloop, as it's simple to operate and versatile. Other common sailboat types include the schooner, cutter, cat, ketch, schooner, catamaran, and trimaran. Other sailboat variations include pocket cruisers, motorsailers, displacement, and shoal-draft vessels.

The information found in this article is sourced from boat reference guides, including A Field Guide to Sailboats of North America by Richard M. Sherwood and trusted sources in the sailing community.

Table of contents

Distinguishing Types of Sailboats

In this article, we'll distinguish sailboats by traits such as their hull type, rig, and general configuration. Some sailboats share multiple characteristics with other boats but fall into a completely different category. For example, a sailboat with a Bermuda rig, a large engine, and a pilothouse could technically be called a sloop, but it's more likely a motorsailer.

When discerning sailboat type, the first most obvious place to look is the hull. If it has only one hull, you can immediately eliminate the trimaran and the catamaran. If it has two or more hulls, it's certainly not a typical monohull vessel.

The next trait to consider is the rig. You can tell a lot about a sailboat based on its rig, including what it's designed to be used for. For example, a long and slender sailboat with a tall triangular rig is likely designed for speed or racing, whereas a wide vessel with a complex gaff rig is probably built for offshore cruising.

Other factors that determine boat type include hull shape, overall length, cabin size, sail plan, and displacement. Hull material also plays a role, but every major type of sailboat has been built in both wood and fiberglass at some point.

Sailboat vs. Motorsailer

Most sailboats have motors, but most motorized sailboats are not motorsailers. A motorsailer is a specific kind of sailboat designed to run efficiently under sail and power, and sometimes both.

Most sailboats have an auxiliary engine, though these power plants are designed primarily for maneuvering. These vessels cannot achieve reasonable speed or fuel-efficiency. Motorsailers can operate like a powerboat.

Motorsailers provide great flexibility on short runs. They're great family boats, and they're popular in coastal communities with heavy boat traffic. However, these features come at a cost. Motorsailers aren't the fastest or most efficient powerboats, and they're also not the most agile sailboats. That said, they make an excellent general-purpose sailing craft.

Monohull vs. Multi-hull: Which is Better?

Multihull sailboats are increasingly popular, thanks to advances and lightweight materials, and sailboat design. But are they better than traditional sailboats? Monohulls are easier to maintain and less expensive, and they offer better interior layouts. Multihulls are more stable and comfortable, and they're significantly easier to control. Multihull sailboats also have a speed advantage.

Monohull Sailboats

A monohull sailboat is a traditionally-shaped vessel with a single hull. The vast majority of consumer sailboats are monohulls, as they're inexpensive to produce and easy to handle. Monohull sailboats are proven and easy to maintain, though they lack the initial stability and motion comfort of multi-hull vessels.

Monohull sailboats have a much greater rig variety than multi-hull sailboats. The vast majority of multihull sailboats have a single mast, whereas multi-masted vessels such as yawls and schooners are always monohulls. Some multi-hull sailboats have side-by-side masts, but these are the exception.

Catamaran Sailboats

The second most common sailboat configuration is the catamaran. A catamaran is a multihull sailboat that has two symmetrical hulls placed side-by-side and connected with a deck. This basic design has been used for hundreds of years, and it experienced a big resurgence in the fiberglass boat era.

Catamarans are fast, efficient, and comfortable. They don't heel very much, as this design has excellent initial stability. The primary drawback of the catamaran is below decks. The cabin of a catamaran is split between both hulls, which often leaves less space for the galley, head, and living areas.

Trimaran Sailboats

Trimarans are multi-hull sailboats similar to catamarans. Trimarans have three hulls arranged side-by-side. The profile of a trimaran is often indistinguishable from a catamaran.

Trimarans are increasingly popular, as they're faster than catamarans and monohulls and considerably easier to control. Trimarans suffer from the same spatial limitations as catamarans. The addition of an extra hull adds additional space, which is one reason why these multi-hull vessels are some of the best-selling sailboats on the market today.

Sailboat Rig Types

Rigging is another way to distinguish sailboat types. The rig of a sailboat refers to it's mast and sail configuration. Here are the most common types of sailboat rigs and what they're used for.

Sloops are the most common type of sailboat on the water today. A sloop is a simple single-mast rig that usually incorporates a tall triangular mainsail and headsail. The sloop rig is easy to control, fun to sail, and versatile. Sloops are common on racing sailboats as they can sail quite close to the wind. These maneuverable sailboats also have excellent windward performance.

The sloop rig is popular because it works well in almost any situation. That said, other more complex rigs offer finer control and superior performance for some hull types. Additionally, sloops spread their entire sail area over just to canvases, which is less flexible than multi-masted rigs. The sloop is ideal for general-purpose sailing, and it's proven itself inland and offshore.

Sloop Features:

• Most popular sailboat rig
• Single mast
• One mainsail and headsail
• Typically Bermuda-rigged
• Easy to handle
• Great windward performance
• Less precise control
• Easier to capsize
• Requires a tall mast

Suitable Uses:

• Offshore cruising
• Coastal cruising

Cat (Catboat)

The cat (or catboat) is a single-masted sailboat with a large, single mainsail. Catboats have a thick forward mast, no headsail, and an exceptionally long boom. These vessels are typically gaff-rigged, as this four-edged rig offers greater sail area with a shorter mast. Catboats were popular workboats in New England around the turn of the century, and they have a large following today.

Catboats are typically short and wide, which provides excellent stability in rough coastal conditions. They're hardy and seaworthy vessels, but they're slow and not ideal for offshore use. Catboats are simple and easy to control, as they only have a single gaff sail. Catboats are easy to spot thanks to their forward-mounted mast and enormous mainsail.

Catboat Features:

• Far forward-mounted single mast
• Large four-sided gaff sail
• Short and wide with a large cockpit
• Usually between 20 and 30 feet in length
• Excellent workboats
• Tough and useful design
• Great for fishing
• Large cockpit and cabin
• Not ideal for offshore sailing
• Single sail offers less precise control
• Slow compared to other rigs
• Inland cruising

At first glance, a cutter is difficult to distinguish from a sloop. Both vessels have a single mast located in roughly the same position, but the sail plan is dramatically different. The cutter uses two headsails and often incorporates a large spar that extends from the bow (called a bowsprit).

The additional headsail is called a staysail. A sloop only carries one headsail, which is typically a jib. Cutter headsails have a lower center of gravity which provides superior performance in rough weather. It's more difficult to capsize a cutter, and they offer more precise control than a sloop. Cutters have more complex rigging, which is a disadvantage for some people.

Cutter Features:

• Two headsails
• Long bowsprit
• Similar to sloop
• Gaff or Bermuda-rigged
• Fast and efficient
• Offers precise control
• Superior rough-weather performance
• More complex than the sloop rig
• Harder to handle than simpler rigs

Perhaps the most majestic type of sailboat rig, the schooner is a multi-masted vessel with plenty of history and rugged seaworthiness. The schooner is typically gaff-rigged with short masts and multiple sails. Schooners are fast and powerful vessels with a complex rig. These sailboats have excellent offshore handling characteristics.

Schooners have a minimum of two masts, but some have three or more. The aftermost large sail is the mainsail, and the nearly identical forward sail is called the foresail. Schooners can have one or more headsail, which includes a cutter-style staysail. Some schooners have an additional smaller sale aft of the mainsail called the mizzen.

Schooner Features:

• At least two masts
• Usually gaff-rigged
• One or more headsails
• Excellent offshore handling
• Precise control
• Numerous sail options (headsails, topsails, mizzen)
• Fast and powerful
• Complex and labor-intensive rig
• Difficult to adjust rig single-handed
• Offshore fishing

Picture a ketch as a sloop or a cutter with an extra mast behind the mainsail. These vessels are seaworthy, powerful, excellent for offshore cruising. A ketch is similar to a yawl, except its larger mizzen doesn't hang off the stern. The ketch is either gaff or Bermuda-rigged.

Ketch-rigged sailboats have smaller sails, and thus, shorter masts. This makes them more durable and controllable in rough weather. The mizzen can help the boat steer itself, which is advantageous on offshore voyages. A ketch is likely slower than a sloop or a cutter, which means you aren't likely to find one winning a race.

Ketch Features:

• Headsail (or headsails), mainsail, and mizzen
• Mizzen doesn't extend past the rudder post
• Good offshore handling
• Controllable and mild
• Shorter and stronger masts
• Easy self-steering
• Slower than sloops and cutters
• Less common on the used market

A dinghy is a general term for a small sailboat of fewer than 28 feet overall. Dinghys are often dual-power boats, which means they usually have oars or a small outboard in addition to a sail. These small boats are open-top and only suitable for cruising in protected waters. Many larger sailboats have a deployable dinghy on board to get to shore when at anchor.

Dinghy Features:

• One or two people maximum capacity
• Easy to sail
• Works with oars, sails, or an outboard
• Great auxiliary boat
• Small and exposed
• Not suitable for offshore use
• Going from anchor to shore
• Protected recreational sailing (lakes, rivers, and harbors)

Best Sailboat Type for Stability

Stability is a factor that varies widely between sailboat types. There are different types of stability, and some sailors prefer one over another. For initial stability, the trimaran wins with little contest. This is because these vessels have a very high beam-to-length ratio, which makes them much less prone to rolling. Next up is the catamaran, which enjoys the same benefit from a wide beam but lacks the additional support of a center hull section.

It's clear that in most conditions, multihull vessels have the greatest stability. But what about in rough weather? And what about capsizing? Multihull sailboats are impossible to right after a knockdown. This is where full-keel monohull sailboats excel.

Traditional vessels with deep displacement keels are the safest and most stable in rough weather. The shape, depth, and weight of their keels keep them from knocking over and rolling excessively. In many cases, these sailboats will suffer a dismasting long before a knockdown. The primary disadvantage of deep-keeled sailboats is their tendency to heel excessively. This characteristic isn't hazardous, though it can make novice sailors nervous and reduce cabin comfort while underway.

Best Sailboat Type for Offshore Cruising

The best sailboat type for offshore cruising is the schooner. These graceful aid robust vessels have proven themselves over centuries as durable and capable vessels. They typically use deep displacement keels, which makes them stable in rough weather and easy to keep on course.

That said, the full answer isn't quite so simple. Modern multihull designs are an attractive option, and they have also proven to be strong and safe designs. Multihull sailboats are an increasingly popular option for offshore sailors, and they offer comfort that was previously unknown in the sailing community.

Many sailors cross oceans in basic Bermuda-rigged monohulls and take full advantage of a fin-keel design speed. At the end of the day, the best offshore cruising sailboat is whatever you are comfortable handling and living aboard. There are physical limits to all sailboat designs, though almost any vessel can make it across an ocean if piloted by a competent skipper and crew.

Best Sailboat Type for Racing The modern lightweight Bermuda-rigged sailboat is the king of the regatta. When designed with the right kind of hull, these vessels are some of the fastest sailboats ever developed. Many boats constructed between the 1970s and today incorporate these design features due to their favorable coastal and inland handling characteristics. Even small sailboats, such as the Cal 20 and the Catalina 22, benefit from this design. These boats are renowned for their speed and handling characteristics.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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• Sailboat Guide

2012 Sea Pearl Tri-Sport, 21

• Description

Seller's Description

Sea Pearl Tri, 21, 2012/17, sailboat for sale (trimaran) the last hull made? $18,250

21 foot cat, ketch trimaran Built in 2012 and refurbished in 2017 Magic Tilt trailer 5 HP two stroke Mercury (2019 low hours)

Many extras, including:

custom cover bimini top custom cabin tent with screen tiller cover cushions on all seats trampolines for akas

Made by Marine Concepts starting in the early 1980’s.

The owner stopped production in 2012 and shifted focus to refurbishing older hulls Most Sea Pearls were single hull with different versions — some with ballast, centreboard Only a dozen or so trimarans and fewer tri-sport models made. We believe ours was the last Sea Pearl built, in May 2012. Hull # 473.

The Sea Pearl is a one-of-a kind craft, capable of sailing in 18 inches of water fully loaded.

Sails remarkably well towards the wind, easily hitting 10 knots in medium winds She can be single-handed with experience Tiller can be freed to point to windward while you take a break to eat lunch The draft with leeboards up is 8 inches, and beach-able with overnight on-board capability. She is extremely light weight at about 900 pounds We replaced the carpet on the trailer beams with starboard Goes back on the ‘magic-tilt’ trailer just as easily in about a foot of water

There are no electronics. She has leeboards and no centreboard Plenty room for seating and storage in the cabin Amas/pontoons can be pushed in for docking and trailering Everything in great shape except I should have polished before I waxed and the teak needs refreshing.

We purchased through Marine Concepts in fall of 2017

the sale price after tax was $30,418 included $12,500 in extensive refurbishments copy of all invoices available shipping and duty into The Bahamas added another $4,700 we added a new 5 HP Mercury two stroke bringing our total cost to $36,500 The newest Sea Pearl and a facelift to be younger still.

So why are we selling?

In March of 2018 we were both in a serious accident and now have physical limitations The accident happened only a month after we got her We lost most of 2018 sailing season and then COVID

We are in Gregory Town, Eleuthera, Bahamas area until mid June when we return to Nova Scotia.

For more information about Sea Pearls, check out the resources below.

Here’s a great article in The New York Times about Sea Pearl sailing in The Bahamas:

Out-island Explorers in Exuma provides the excursions featured in the article above.

They posted a great video on YouTube demonstrating how to rig and sail a Sea Pearl:

or phone 1-242-470-1737

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Cat Ketch 17 Boat…

$ 90.00 – $ 115.00

Cat Ketch 17 Boat Plans (CK17)

[CK17] A roomy and fast expedition cat ketch.

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An able camping cruiser with good performance and easier to build than any other boat of her type. Faced with many requests for onboard camping features for our Caravelle 16, we decided, instead of modifying the Caravelle, to design a new boat with a clear priority given to simplicity. We choose a typical well-proven sharpie style hull with an unstayed cat ketch rig: simplicity of building and simplicity of sailing. The separated cockpits and ample storage are ideal for extended camping expeditions. This boat would be the ideal tool to explore the Florida Keys or any other remote place.

Click here to see study plans

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Types of Sailboats

Table of Contents

Sailboats are one type of boat, but just because they all have sails doesn’t mean they’re all the same. There are subsets of sailboats and they differ by their shape (or number of hulls), the type of sailing rig, and their best primary use. Let’s investigate.

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Sailboat shapes

Sailboats can be monohulls or multihulls, which can be catamarans with two hulls or trimarans with three.

Monohulls are the classic sailing boat with one hull . Large, traditional, and older versions have deeper and heavier keels integrated into the hull for greater stability. At the same time, newer designs have fin keels that are attached rather than integrated appendages. Monohull boats can be used for racing or cruising.

Catamarans have two hulls that are connected by a bridge deck . Cats are prized for their large deck and accommodations space, stability, and shallow draft, so many mid-sized cats can be found in charter fleets worldwide.

Production cats are typically built for comfort rather than speed, but there are high-performance carbon fiber racing cats like those in the America’s Cup.

Trimarans are boats with three hulls. They can be large cruisers with fixed hull supports or small racers where the structural arms that hold the amas (outer hulls) fold to make the whole boat narrower. This is handy when fitting into a small slip or onto a trailer. Even more than catamarans, trimarans are known to be fast sailors.

More sailboats of all shapes (but especially catamarans) are experimenting with foils where the hull(s) ride out of the water to minimize wetted surfaces and maximize speed.

READ MORE: 10 Best Beginner Sailboats

Sailboat rigging

The rig of a sailboat includes the spar (mast) that holds the sails up, the boom that holds the bottom of the mainsail, and the shrouds or stays that support the mast. One sailboat can have multiple masts.

The number and placement of the masts decide what kind of boat it is. A sloop has one mast but may have multiple headsails (the sails that are in front of the mast), and therefore it may be called a cutter sloop.

A ketch or a yawl has a second smaller (mizzen) mast aft of the main mast. Schooners have multiple masts, but the secondary mast is ahead of the main mast rather than behind it. Many classic tall ships are outfitted as schooners, not generally found in modern recreational sailing.

Different uses of sailboats

As mentioned above, sailboats can be distance cruisers, racers, or something in between . Much of how they’re used will depend on their size and shape.

• Daysailers: The primary use of a daysailer is for an afternoon sailing in a bay or harbor. You can daysail on the ocean, and any boat can be sailed for just a day. Still, typical daysailers are usually smaller (under 30 feet), have no or minimal accommodations below, and are used for short outings.
• Cruisers: Sailboats can cruise for a weekend or a lifetime. Cruisers are often outfitted with amenities to accommodate overnight stays, so they have a galley , a cabin , and a head (bathroom). They vary in size, can be mono- or multihulls, and can carry any rig type.
• Racers: Although any sailboat can be raced, some models are specifically designed to do so. They’re usually built lighter and carry more sail area.
• Racer-cruisers: Racer-cruisers are performance boats (usually sloops) that can cruise. Some sailors will argue that there’s no such thing and that it’s all marketing rather than reality as companies try to make customers believe their boats are fast. Lightly built cruisers are often classified as racer-cruisers.
• Bluewater cruisers: Sailboats designed to cruise across oceans are often called bluewater cruisers. They’re well equipped, have large water and fuel tanks, and are often loaded with technical and cruising gear to be able to stay at sea for a long time. Again, these sailboats can have any number of hulls or masts to qualify for this moniker.
• Motorsailers: Heavy sailboats with big engines may be called motorsailers but it’s not a name that appeals to their owners because it implies the boat is heavy and slow under sail.
• Sailing dinghies: Small sailboats that are often used to teach sailing are sailing dinghies. They’re designed for one or two people and can be basic like a Lido or Sabot or competition level such as a Finn, Nacra, or Laser.

Learn more about sailboats with Boatsetter

An expert sailor knows a sailboat isn’t just a boat with sails — there are nuances and knowing the differences will make you not only better informed, it will also enable you to decide which kind of sailboat is right for you.

Of course, the best way to get to know a sailboat is by hands-on practice . Rent a sailboat — with a captain or to sail solo — and get on-the-water practice. In no time, you’ll be a pro.

Boatsetter is a unique boat-sharing platform that gives everyone— whether you own a boat or you’re just renting — the chance to experience life on the water. You can list a boat , book a boat , or make money as a captain .

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Zuzana Prochazka is an award-winning freelance journalist and photographer with regular contributions to more than a dozen sailing and powerboating magazines and online publications including Southern Boating, SEA, Latitudes & Attitudes and SAIL. She is SAIL magazines Charter Editor and the Executive Director of Boating Writers International. Zuzana serves as judge for SAIL’s Best Boats awards and for Europe’s Best of Boats in Berlin. 

A USCG 100 Ton Master, Zuzana founded and manages a flotilla charter organization called Zescapes that takes guests adventure sailing at destinations worldwide. 

Zuzana has lived in Europe, Africa and the United States and has traveled extensively in South America, the islands of the South Pacific and Mexico. 

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Unstayed rig Sparhawk 36?

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by bpw , Sep 22, 2012 .

bpw Senior Member

While poking around yacht world for unstayed rigs the other day I came across a Sparhawk 36. Not much info on the net but an interesting boat. Anyone know anything about them? Sailed one? Thanks  

Krauthammer Junior Member

No different than the many Gary Hoyt Freedoms or the Yves Tanton cats. Great cruising boats and easy to single hand.  

Eric Sponberg Senior Member

bpw said: ↑ While poking around yacht world for unstayed rigs the other day I came across a Sparhawk 36. Not much info on the net but an interesting boat. Anyone know anything about them? Sailed one? Thanks Click to expand...

Eric Sponberg said: ↑ ... the Warwick Collins keel, which is a two-blade (fore-aft arrangement) keel with a huge delta wing shape connecting the tips. Click to expand...

The ETAP keel is similar, it has a bulb rather than a delta wing plate. If you Google "Warwick Collins Tandem Keel" you'll see lots of references to it, including some on this forum. Eric  

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Thanks for the info Eric, As I am in Chile cruising with my current boat right now I won't be buying one anytime soon, but it is going on the official "next boat list" Thanks  

Trying to work out unstayed wooden mast scantlings

Unstayed masts. Yet another thread...

Boats with Unstayed Mast and Jib Sail

Spreader Length/ Rig design

New Rigging for a former fishing boat (built 1936)

Attaching Rigging to the Mast

AeroRig on catamaran

Re-rigging a small sailboat (Luger Southwind 21 to Catalina 22)

The Masting And Rigging Of Ships

Really small stayed rig - what kind of sail?

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