schock 22 sailboat

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• Sailboat Guide

Santana 22 is a 22 ′ 2 ″ / 6.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Gary Mull and built by Schock W.D. starting in 1966.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The SANTANA 22 is the first production design by Gary Mull. An updated version was still being built in 2010. Also built under license in Australia. (Triton Boat Co.) Dimensions from W.D. Schock Corp. (1966)

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• About Sailboat Guide

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The Schock 22 is a 22.0ft fractional sloop designed by Wendell H. Calkins and built in fiberglass by Schock W.D. since 1960.

26 units have been built..

The Schock 22 is a light sailboat which is a very high performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a racing boat.

Schock 22 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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Accommodations

Builder data, modal title.

The content of your modal.

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Specifications SCHOCK 22

1960 - 22.00 ft / 6.71 m - W. D. Schock Corp.(USA) - Wendell H. Calkins

SCHOCK 22 Sailboat Data

Hull Type: Keel/Cbrd. Rigging Type: Fractional Sloop LOA: 22.00 ft / 6.71 m LWL: 20.00 ft / 6.10 m S.A. (reported): 245.00 ft² / 22.76 m² Beam: 7.50 ft / 2.29 m Displacement: 2,100.00 lb / 953 kg Ballast: 715.00 lb / 324 kg Max Draft: 4.17 ft / 1.27 m Min Draft: 2.17 ft / 0.66 m Construction: FG First Built: 1960 # Built: 26 Builder: W. D. Schock Corp.(USA) Designer: Wendell H. Calkins

Information from  sailboatdata.com .

Hull Speed: 5.99 kn

Review of Schock 22

Basic specs., sailing characteristics.

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.0 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Schock 22 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

• In the News
• Parts & Service

W.D. Schock Boat Builders Presents Harbor 20

Overview of the Harbor 20 Sailboat

The Harbor 20 "The classic modern daysailer"

Classic daysailer meets state of the art marine technology.

The Harbor 20 presents a graceful silhouette, its modern underbody and rig make for a fast and easily-handled contemporary daysailer. The result is a beautiful, cost effective, and easy-to-use boat that will always be in style.

Comfortable Cruising

 The Harbor 20’s accommodating cockpit holds up to eight guests, and no  one needs to sit on the rail to balance the boat, or duck under the boom  when tacking. Deep coamings provide comfortable back support, and two  easily accessible ice chests quickly render your favorite refreshment.  

Natural Club Racer

 A fine entry with firm bilges and a long run aft give the Harbor 20 high  speed potential, high stability and the ability to move smoothly  through choppy water. The rudder is placed well aft, and the 900 lb.  bulb keel keeps the weight low. This keel design gives the boat plenty  of stability without slowing the boat down in light air. The Harbor 20  can be raced competitively either single-handily or with a crew of  two or more. 

Sensible Design, Simplified Sail Control

With incredible stability and loads of conveniences, the Harbor 20 can  be rigged in minutes and sailed solo or with a group. There  is no better opportunity to share sailing excitement with friends and  family – whether they are seasoned sailors or completely inexperienced.  Celebrating over seventy years of boat-building excellence, the Schock  heritage continues with the Harbor 20.  

Designed with simplicity in mind

 The roller-furling headsail and self-tacking club boom will delight your  crew. And when running wing-and-wing, the club boom acts as an  automatic winger, effortlessly holding out the jib. And the control  panel just aft of the mast is centralized convenience at its very best.  Ready to go sail? Simply raise the  main, roll out the jib, and throw off the bow line. When you return to  the dock, just roll the jib back up, stow the main neatly on the boom  using the lazy jacks, and cover the boat and jib with the optional  cockpit cover and jib sock.  

 ll halyards and lines are led below the deck to Harken hardware  mounted on a shelf at the aft edge of the cuddy cabin. Everything  is within easy reach for the skipper and crew.

Specifications & Options

Specifications, electric motor options.

Designed by: Steven W. Schock

Exclusive Builder: WD Schock Corp (USA) 

First Built: 1997

Construction: Fiber Glass

Draft: 3’6”

BALLAST: 900 lbs.

Displacement:1,800 lbs

MAIN: 151 sq. ft.

Jib: 8 sq. ft.

Draft (max): 3.50’

Sail Area/Disp.1: 23.84

Bal./Disp. 50.00 %

Disp./Len. 163.56 

An electric motor is available to push the boat at about five knots and to provide convenient, quiet, and odorless propulsion. The motor, which is permanently mounted on a stainless steel pivot arm, swings out of the aft lazarette and pins onto the starboard gunwale. No wrestling with an outboard and no through-hull fittings! Four hours at maximum speed comes from the two batteries installed forward under the cockpit seats. The 24 volt system can be easily recharged with the in-line three step charger. Just plug it in at the dock.

There are many customize options available, let our representatives help you customize the perfect boat for your needs. Call us today at (951) 277-3377

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Copyright © 2024 WD Schock - All Rights Reserved.

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Partial restoration of a 1962 Schock 25 sailboat... and a weird first sail

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I'm no help with the steering, but wanted to say she's a beauty! Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk  

Schock 25 is a very hard boat to get to balance both up wind and down. mast needs to come way forward to reduce the weather helm but then the boat is all over the place going down wind. if your sails are the least bit blow out it will not be good going up wind. sailed and race them a lot in high school. boat sailed ok in light air but big wind not so much. anything over 15 and it is a handful. only made around 100 boats sails started out good until people found out about weather helm issue. the next boat they did was the Santana 22 designed by Gary mull and it was a great boat and they sold a lot of them. gave a lot of sailing lessons in the Santana 22's  

How can I tell if the sails are "blown out"?  

Do the sails look as smooth as a fighter jet wing or are they stretched, wrinkled and baggy. where is the max draft in the sail, the deepest point of the curve, is closer to the luff or the middle of the sail. If they are Dacron woven fabric and have sailed more then 3 seasons then they are stretched out and the draft has moved back to the point where it is not working right anymore. they won't drive the boat forward, just make it heel and make it go sideways to leeward. some boats are a little more forgiving for old sails but some, mine included need good sail shape to sail properly. my boat is a modern design but if the sails are a little off on the draft position as the original sails were the boat just heels and goes sideways.  

The sails do not have wrinkles and they don't seem to be "baggy."  

here ia good explanation of draft and sail shape https://www.uksailmakers.com/encyclopedia/5-2-genoa-trim/  

adding a draft strip so you can see the sail shape better How to Add a Draft Stripe to a Sail  

She looks great - job well done. I would imagine having a boat with the rudder just aft of the keel presents this sort of problem.  

I don't think that this particular placement of the rudder with the keel is rare. See this: Sailboat Rudders and What You Need to Know Thank you for the compliment on my boat... much appreciated.  

The boat does look fantastic, sorry I can't help otherwise.  

In my opinion, if you want to enjoy that boat, you need to add a rudder aft of the water line. Glass the one stuck to keel straight. Find a rudder in a junk boat yard or ebay, Poke a hole, and stick it thru. Shouldn’t be too difficult. The rudder on my boat is a rudder with an aluminum pipe sticking out of it. The pipe goes into a fiberglass sleeve. There are .050 teflon sheets wrapped around the aluminum post used as bearings. There is a collar half way up the sleeve that keeps it in place. Would be simple to add. Probably. The best part of sailing is adjusting the helm and feeling the boat respond. You dont have that here. Its a fight.  

cousineddy said: In my opinion, if you want to enjoy that boat, you need to add a rudder aft of the water line. Glass the one stuck to keel straight. Find a rudder in a junk boat yard or ebay, Poke a hole, and stick it thru. Shouldn't be too difficult. The rudder on my boat is a rudder with an aluminum pipe sticking out of it. The pipe goes into a fiberglass sleeve. There are .050 teflon sheets wrapped around the aluminum post used as bearings. There is a collar half way up the sleeve that keeps it in place. Would be simple to add. Probably. The best part of sailing is adjusting the helm and feeling the boat respond. You dont have that here. Its a fight. Click to expand...

I think that I have cleared up what has been affecting the steering in this Schock 25 sailboat. This boat has a motor well positioned toward the port side of the boat. I've posted some pics here of the motor in the motor well. The drag of the motor through the water is causing the issue. I can reduce the effect by rotating the motor some. Also, there was some play between the tiller bracket and the rudder post. I have resolved that. Together with the motor drag, this has largely taken care of the steering issue. The motor is a 4hp Yamaha 4-stroke. When I go out sailing, I could lift the motor up out of the well and perhaps put it in the rear hold... but that is an unsatisfactory solution to me. I could switch to a 24 volt electric motor (trolling motor) which I can lift up to eliminate the drag. On calm mostly flat days, I like to go out of the bay into the ocean and sail up toward the lighthouse. If the wind stopped or the outgoing tide is too strong, I don't think I'd have enough power to get back into the bay with the electric motor. I could go to a smaller gas motor... something like the 2.5 hp Honda outboards I've seen... but the drag issue would nearly be the same. So I'm thinking I'll just go with the way I have it now. Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions.  

Attachments

That’s good to hear. Perhaps the motor could be mounted on the transom which would solve your problem.  

Anzac78 said: That's good to hear. Perhaps the motor could be mounted on the transom which would solve your problem. Click to expand...

Lazerbrains said: I used to have a Bristol 24 with that same motor in a well, however with mine the well was centerline with the keel. I think your best bet is to either make it so it can tilt up in the well, or get good at pulling the motor up and putting it on a rail mount when sailing. Not sure I would go with a smaller motor in case you get hit hard while out sailing - it does happen to all of us at some point. Pretty boat, BTW. Click to expand...

I used to have a Bristol 24 with that same motor in a well, however with mine the well was centerline with the keel. I think your best bet is to either make it so it can tilt up in the well, or get good at pulling the motor up and putting it on a rail mount when sailing. Not sure I would go with a smaller motor in case you get hit hard while out sailing - it does happen to all of us at some point. Pretty boat, BTW.  

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General Data

See also: boats for sale.

• Brezza 22 Brezza 22
• Thames Marine Invader 22
• Honnor Marine LONGBOAT

Overall length:

Waterline length:, displacement:, straightening:, sail details mq.