iwc portugieser yacht club chronograph gold

An Old Acquaintance: Reviewing the IWC Portugieser Chronograph

IWC has added several new models to the Portugieser family in recent years. One of them is the iconic chronograph. In this latest visit to the WatchTime archives, we tested this watch, our good old friend, which boasts a trendy green dial and is equipped with a manufacture caliber.

The Portugieser is one of IWC’s oldest and most prestigious product lines, with a dial that has hardly changed over 80 years. “That’s why we approached the project of designing the new collection very carefully and with tremendous respect for history,” Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC, and Creative Director Christian Knoop explained.

The Portugieser’s Handsome Dial Remains Nearly Unchanged The impressive result puts every doubt to rest. Glancing at the attractive face of the Portugieser Chronograph, you instantly recognize a cherished old acquaintance, although the dial of our test watch is now a trendy green, and plays with the light. Another version comes with a burgundy dial. There’s also a boutique edition with an elegant blue dial and a rose-gold case.

The very distinctive, clear and functional dial is 38 mm in diameter and has recessed counters at 6 and 12, slim feuille hands and applied Arabic numerals. These features have so strongly influenced the Portugieser chronograph that even in the new version, no designer dared to replace the partly cut-away numerals 6 and 12 with arguably “simpler” index strokes. Comparing this latest update to the last fine tuning about 10 years ago, we find that the calibrations on the counters with inward-facing numerals, the lettering, and the slender quarter-second scale on the flange have all remained unchanged. As a whole, the latest version of this timeless watch retains its own character and remains loyal to its origins as a time-measuring instrument — not least because of the finely calibrated elapsed-seconds scale. With three intervening strokes between each pair of full-second lines, its markings correctly match the 4-Hz rhythm of a modified version of a movement from IWC’s recent 69000 caliber family.

IWC’s Favorite, at Last with a Manufacture Caliber Designated as number 69355, this caliber is the essential new feature in the latest Portugieser chronograph. As one of the most popular items in IWC’s portfolio, now it’s finally equipped with a manufacture caliber. This was not yet the situation a decade ago, when the still-young Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph was given a manufacture movement from the 89000 caliber series, which was introduced in 2007. The 69000 caliber family, which made its debut 10 years later, underwent four years of further development and was encased for the first time in the Ingenieur Chronograph in 2017.

With the newly designed 69000 caliber series, IWC is gradually replacing chronograph movements based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750 and at the same time offering a less costly alternative to the 89000 series of manufacture calibers. Our test watch comes with a $7,950 price tag. The least costly variant of the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph with Caliber 89361 sells for $12,100. Paying the additional charge also gets you a flyback function and a longer power reserve of 68 hours. The power reserve of Caliber 69355, on the other hand, is rather short by contemporary standards, at 46 hours, and this caliber relies on an index to adjust its hairspring’s active length — a simpler method of finely adjusting the rate than the eccentric screws on the rim of Caliber 89361’s balance in the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph.

Otherwise, chronograph Caliber 69355 similarly offers a sturdy and precise column wheel to control the stopwatch functions, a rocking pinion to couple the chronograph with the flow of force from the gear train and a modern bidirectional effective self-winding mechanism. This automatic winding, however, is not the Pellaton mechanism (named after the former IWC engineer) that’s installed in the calibers of the 89000 series, but a modern development from the Richemont Group.

The Movement’s Rate Upholds the Promise of Quality The positioning of the subdial for the continually running seconds at the 6 is unusual because most chronographs put this indicator at the 9. While other modifications of Caliber 69000 have a counter for 12 elapsed hours at the 9, it’s absent from the Portugieser chronograph, as is the date across the dial at the 3. With reference to this watch’s history and to further enhance the harmony of its design, this newest Portugieser only has a 30-minute counter at the 12 and no luminous material on its numerals, indexes or hands.

Turning the timepiece over and peering through its back, where four screws affix the sapphire crystal, you can discover numerous details typical of IWC’s caliber construction, e.g., circular patterns in Geneva-stripes style, satin finishes, circular graining and a skeletonized rotor engraved with the words “Probus Scafusia.” Our test confirmed that the automatic movement upholds this promise of quality. It ran extremely well and achieved well-balanced rate values. Its performance on the wrist was similar to the rate measured by our timing machine when the watch was fully wound. Timekeeping in chronograph mode is likewise impeccable, with an average daily deviation of about 1 second.

The Portugieser Chronograph Reflects Timelessness and Modernity The stopwatch functions are controlled by pressing mushroom-shaped push-pieces. The pressure points here are secure and the buttons run smoothly to reliably trigger the column wheel. The knurled crown is user friendly and can easily be pulled outward into the hand-setting position. These components complement the classic Portugieser case, which reveals its conical contours when viewed from the side. The narrow, polished bezel extends beyond the middle part of the case, thus providing plenty of space for the dial. The screwed back tapers toward the sapphire crystal with a concave edge curve. The case’s laterally satin-finished middle section slopes very strongly downward to the strap lugs. All this, together with the high-quality alligator leather strap and its convenient butterfly folding clasp makes it comfortable to wear on the wrist.

A quick look at the wrist immediately offers a pleasant surprise because our “good old friend” now indulges in a lively play of colors. Viewed through its domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the dial doesn’t appear green from every angle, but changes its appearance from dark green to nearly black, which endows this classic watch with understated elegance. Whether by coincidence or on purpose, in this way too the Portugieser chronograph embodies the timeless modernity for which IWC is known and appreciated.

SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8200 Schaffausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW371615 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph (central elapsed- seconds hand, counter for up to 30 elapsed minutes) Movement: IWC 69355 based on caliber family 69000, automatic, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, Glucydur balance, Nivarox hair-spring, Etachron fine adjustment via bi-partite index, Incabloc shock absorption, 46-hour power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.90 mm Case: Stainless steel with domed sapphire crystal above dial anti-reflectively treated on both sides, sapphire crystal in caseback, water resistant to 30 meters Strap and cla­­sp: Black alligator leather strap with double folding clasp Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours: On the wrist +1.6 Dial up +3.1 / +1.4 Dial down +2.5 / +0.0 Crown up -0.5 / -3.5 Crown down +4.1 / +4.4 Crown left -0.3 / -0.8 Greatest deviation 4.6 / 7.9 Average deviation +1.8 / +0.3 Average amplitude: Flat positions 321° / 292° Hanging positions 296° / 267° Dimensions: Diameter = 40.95 mm, height = 13.08 mm, weight = 90.0 g Variations: With burgundy dial (Ref. IWC371616; $7,950); Boutique Edition with rose-gold case, blue dial and blue strap (Ref. IW371614; $17,800) Price: $7,950

A very interesting and professional article. Generally think the portugieser, especially with the manufactur movement, is a Wonderful watch with is pretty much underrated.

Brilliant watch and hard to evaluate. I have a 2001 version, unworn and in a wooden box. It is a limited edition split second model and not worth a lot as with many high end watches. As with most IWCs hard to better and very underrated.

Love this watch! From the first time I saw it in the metal, I wanted it. I have the blue dial 150th anniversary version which I just adore.

My son got one 20 years ago and is still very happy with this wonderful timepiece. Within my vast collection I have various IWC, including a priceless D’Avinci, and hold the marque in very high esteem.

Nice watch, but for the price asked I`d probably buy something else…

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition 'Orlebar Brown'

Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection..

This year at IWC has been all about the refreshed Portugieser line of nautically inspired timepieces, which harken back to an important wristwatch made by IWC that used a large and accurate pocket watch movement. Today, we have a special edition of the sporty Portugieser Yacht Club to mark a new partnership between IWC and the British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown. 

Orlebar Brown was founded after its Creative Director, Adam Brown, detected a disconnect between what typically well-dressed guys wear socializing and what they tend to put on when they go to the pool. While changing from a pair of swim trunks into something more appropriate for lunch, a light went on, and Brown realized he wanted a pair that would look great away from the pool too. When you look at a pair of Orlebar Brown swim trunks, you can see how traditional tailoring influences their construction. Side tab adjusters and a four-part shaped waistband keep things refined, fresh, and stylish when heading from an afternoon at the pool out to drinks with friends. Though the company's swimwear collections are regularly refreshed on a seasonal basis, each suit comes with a five-year guarantee. They're swim trunks made to look great and to last.

Earlier this year, IWC dropped three main line models as part of its 2020 focus on the Portugieser line. Aesthetically, the new special edition version bridges the designs of the blue dial and silver-plated dial variations that we covered back in April. It does this while dispensing with the stainless steel bracelet in favor of the rubber strap with co-branded buckle seen above.

A white toweling blazer with blue piping from the new Orlebar Brown x IWC capsule collection.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" is being launched right in time for summer, alongside Orlebar Brown's new nine-piece resort wear capsule collection, designed with IWC. With its nautically influenced design, rubber strap, and custom co-branded buckle (which is fashioned after an Orlebar Brown side tab adjuster), this feels like a fun twist on a perennial favorite from the IWC Portugieser collection.

One of my favorite things about IWC's cal. 89361 flyback chronograph movement is its impact on the display. It allows for a clean and symmetrical two sub-dial layout while integrating chronograph hours and minutes into the upper sub-dial and reserving the lower one for a small hacking seconds. Usually, a chronograph would need three subdials to convey this much information. 

The Portugieser is, of course, a watch whose formidable size is one of its most distinctive design elements, and this watch is certainly a Portugieser in that regard. At nearly 45mm in diameter, it could be a bit overwhelming to those who only wear watches on the smaller end of the spectrum. Still, it has a very classic design, and the fact that it's a sporty chronograph on a rubber strap makes me think that this could be a pretty killer watch for these current warmer months.

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" Reference Number: IW390704

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Blue and silver-plated dial Indexes: Rhodium-plated appliques Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 6 bar Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap with textile inlay

Caliber: IWC 89361 Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, flyback chronograph with chronograph hours and minutes in sub-dial at 12 o'clock, date Power Reserve: 68 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 38

Price: $12,500 Availability: July 2020

For more on the watch, click here , and for more on the capsule collection, click here.

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Hands-On Debut: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Collection Redesigned For 2020

The IWC Yacht Club was reintroduced 10 years ago now when it was revived as part of the Portugieser family. Now, as part of Watches & Wonders 2020 (online edition), IWC has given the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph its third facelift and has finally introduced a bracelet option for this “nautical sports watch” family. Of the three new models being introduced, two are done in steel, while the third is a two-tone steel and rose gold version.

With the new Yacht Club Chronograph collection, IWC is doing what great brands always do, and that is refine and iterate their products. The new case is actually slightly bigger than the existing model (which measures 43.5mm-wide and 14.1mm-thick) at 44.6mm-wide and 14.4mm-thick. However, the new filigreed bezel and flat casing ring that’s shared with the new Moon & Tide edition allows for a sleeker and more streamlined look, overall. Water resistance is the same, at 60M. Remember, it’s “yacht,” not “dive.”

The dial layout is a little different, with the IWC logo moved from 9 o’clock to 3 o’clock, the “Yacht Club” text moved from the 6 o’clock subdial to 9 o’clock, and the date window moved from 3 o’clock to now being housed within the 6 o’clock subdial. Notably, the date window now matches the either blue or silver dial of the watch. On the blue version of the outgoing model, the date window was done in white.

The chronograph hand is no longer red, rather it matches the hour and minute hands (which are the only to be lumed in the Portugieser family), done in rhodium, gold, or blued steel (the latter of which looks fantastic, in my opinion, as do the similarly blued hour markers against the silver dial). There is some red left, with the hacking seconds hand at the 6 o’clock subdial now adding that jolt of color. You’ll also notice the guilloché pattern on the running seconds subdial. The hour/minute counter at 12 o’clock remains largely the same.

As for the bracelets, these are quite similar to those found on the Ingenieur, though they are 22mm-wide, as opposed to 20mm. With alternating brushed end links and polished center links, IWC has finally successfully offered the Yacht Club on a bracelet. As much as I like a rubber strap, it always perplexed me why a bracelet wasn’t an option.

Through the exhibition caseback, you can see the unchanged 89361 calibre. This automatic flyback chronograph movement operates. at 28,800 vph and has a 68-hour power reserve.

Sportier and thoroughly more refined than the second-generation Portugieser Yacht Club, these three new watches are a welcome breath of fresh air to the collection. My personal favorite is the steel with silver dial, though the two-tone brings its own unique charm to the equation. It does come at a hefty premium over the other two, however. The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronographs in steel with blue dial (Ref. IW390701) and silver dial (Ref. IW390702) are each priced at $13,000 USD . The two-tone steel and gold IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. IW390703) is priced at $20,000 USD . You can learn more at iwc.com .

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Moscow City Golf Club

It is centrally located, just off Kutuzovsky Prospect, within 5 minutes drive from the Victory Park and the Triumphal Arch. Right in the center, yet green and picturesque with lakes and 15 Century Church next to it. Moscow City Golf Club was the first one to open in Russia on September 15, 1987 at the urban wasteland on the street Dovzhenko held long-awaited 'ground breaking' - famous sportsmen Pele, Mike Tyson, Sven Tumba and Alexander Ragulin made symbolic throws with the golf clubs. This day is considered to be the day of foundation of Moscow City Golf Club. The founder of the club is Sven (Tumba) Johansson ex World Champion hockey player. Thousands of golf fans gather here every season.

Throughout its history, Moscow City Golf Club tries to maintain and develop friendly relations with the golf clubs around the world, organizing the exchange of delegations, inter-club tournaments, social events, thereby making the life of the club members more interesting. Moscow City Golf Club has signed a cooperation agreement with American Golf Club 'Deep Cliff Golf Course', Finnish 'Aura Golf', French 'Cannes Mandle' and Cyprus' Aphrodite Hills Golf '.

Each year Moscow City Golf Club holds a lot of different tournaments and activities like: children's charity tournaments and much more attracting numerous visitors.

June 26, 2004 the Club House was open again after restoration. The opening ceremony was attended by the founder of the Moscow City Golf Club Sven Tumba Johansson and officials, senior officials from the Moscow Government.

As a result, the restoration Club House was transformed into a wonderful place for relaxition and organizing events. It has spacious and luxuriously furnished rooms available for the members of the Moscow City Golf Club: restaurant, golf bar, library, cigar and billiard room, conference room, office «Old Tom», Beauty Salon & SPA, gym, showers, saunas and relaxation rooms with personal lockers. Interior of the Club House was completed in classic English style by the famous designer from Hong Kong Garvin Chen (architect Garvin Chen).

Moscow City Golf Club has a nine holes field. Six of the nine holes are par-4 and three holes are par-3. The total playing distance is 2.343 metres. Detailed description of each hole you can find on the site of the Moscow City Golf Club with the plan.

Moscow City Golf Club is a wonderfull place with impecable service, the members can gain privileges in foregn golf clubs including in the International Association of the Clubs.

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Join the GOLF team at Pinehurst this May

Is golf catching on in Russia? Jack Nicklaus’s designers have certainly been busy there

Golf is played in more than 200 countries and territories around the world, but until fairly recently, Russia wasn’t one of them.

Its introduction to the game came just 30 years ago with the opening of the country’s first course, Moscow City Golf Club, a nine-hole layout on the fringes of the capital.

At the time, Russia was still part of the Soviet Union. But while the Soviet leader, Mikhail Gorbachev, gave his blessing to the project, the real driving force was the Swedish golf star, Sven “Tumba” Johansson, who announced his plans to build the course while floating on a boat down the Moscow River, whacking golf balls into the water under the bemused watch of party apparatchiks.

As if that weren’t entertainment enough, there was the club’s groundbreaking ceremony, in late 1987, where the motley assortment of celebrities in attendance (Mike Tyson, Sean Connery and Pele, among them) solidified golf’s status in the country as a little more than a curiosity.

That was then, this is now.

In the world’s ninth most populous country there are more than a dozen 18-hole courses, a handful of nine-hole layouts and myriad projects in the works.

The most recent to be completed is Raevo Golf and Country Club, outside Moscow, a Jack Nicklaus Signature design that opened earlier this month.

Nicklaus Signature courses are relative rarities that come at a cost and carry prestige, but Raevo is not the first in the Moscow area. It’s the third, giving the city and its surrounds a greater concentration of Nicklaus Signature courses than any major capital in the world.

This depth charge of Russian golf course development has been propelled in large part by economic shifts that have generated great reservoirs of private wealth. But the boom has also happened in the face of an inconvenient fact: Russia is not an easy place to grow the game.

Aside from having next to nothing in the way of golf tradition, the country enjoys little in the way of a golf season. Winters are long. Summers are short. Turf can have a tough time taking root. If you’re itching to play on a Moscow getaway, you should aim between mid-May and mid-October.

Throw in rocky, clay-based soil — far from the friendliest for course construction — and you understand why Russian sporting culture features more slap-shots on ice than chip shots around the green.

Yet golf progresses.

Over the past decade-plus, Dirk Bouts, a design associate with Nicklaus Design, has made about 80 trips to Russia, spending long stretches on the ground consulting on course renovations and overseeing new construction. During Bouts’s early visits, the majority of golfers he crossed paths with were expats. In more recent years, that demographic breakdown has turned on its head.

“The first time I went, golf’s presence was pretty much non-existent,” Bouts says. “But you see it taking root. It’s becoming more democratic. You have people making a decent visit. Now, it seems like every time I go back, there are more Russians out on the course.”

Just as picking up the game involves a learning curve, so does building courses in a fledgling golf market. The first Nicklaus Signature course in Russia was Tseleevo Golf and Polo Club, which opened in 2008 outside Moscow after a drawn-out five years of construction — a process prolonged by inexperienced Russian contractors working challenging terrain with outmoded equipment.

By 2014, though, when it came time to cut the ribbon on Skolkovo, the second Nicklaus Signature design outside the capital, the work crews were more seasoned, the equipment upgraded and the entire process streamlined. The job took four years. It’s since gotten more efficient. The start-to-finish work on Raevo was a comparatively scant three years.

The resulting course is a sylvan beauty that spills through a woodsy landscape, west of the capital, with natural creeks and lakes as ornamentation, and gentle hills and valleys that lend plenty of movement. Stretched to the tips, the course plays 7,245 yards, plenty of heft to handle tournaments. The turf is creeping bentgrass, and the sand-capping and extensive drainage beneath it is designed to stretch the golf season to its fullest.

“Instead of mid-May to mid-October,” Bouts says, “we’re hoping for something more like mid-April to end of October.”

This month marked a soft opening for Raevo, as the clubhouse is not yet completed. When the grand opening takes place, celebrities will no doubt be in attendance, Nicklaus among them.

Don’t expect Mike Tyson.

Golf in Russia has gotten serious.