freedom 25 sailboat interior

Review of Freedom 25

Basic specs..

The Freedom 25 is equipped with a fin keel. A boat with a fin keel is more manoeuvrable but has less directional stability than a similar boat with a long keel.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.37 - 1.47 meter (4.49 - 4.79 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Freedom 25 is 2.39, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Freedom 25 is about 135 kg/cm, alternatively 759 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 135 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 759 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Freedom 25 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

FREEDOM 25 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of FREEDOM 25. Built by Freedom Yachts and designed by Gary Hoyt, the boat was first built in 1981. It has a hull type of Fin w/transom hung rudder and LOA is 7.82. Its sail area/displacement ratio 18.09. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by 38 L, runs on undefined.

FREEDOM 25 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about FREEDOM 25 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the freedom 25.

FREEDOM 25 was designed by Gary Hoyt.

Who builds FREEDOM 25?

FREEDOM 25 is built by Freedom Yachts.

When was FREEDOM 25 first built?

FREEDOM 25 was first built in 1981.

How long is FREEDOM 25?

FREEDOM 25 is 6.1 m in length.

What is mast height on FREEDOM 25?

FREEDOM 25 has a mast height of 9.22 m.

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Interior information/photos for a Freedom 25

Post by floatcoatterrier » Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:49 pm

Re: Interior information/photos for a Freedom 25

Post by GeoffSchultz » Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:39 pm

Post by Michel » Thu Apr 23, 2009 7:24 am

floatcoatterrier wrote: So, any info on working/fixing water stained wood, cushions and the like would be greatly appreciated!

Post by THATBOATGUY » Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:00 pm

Michel wrote: floatcoatterrier wrote: So, any info on working/fixing water stained wood, cushions and the like would be greatly appreciated!

Post by unfetteredalexandria » Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:36 pm

Post by bearb4tree » Tue May 05, 2009 4:53 am

Post by yarrow » Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:06 pm

Post by R. Bush » Sat Aug 28, 2010 1:36 am

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The Freedom 25 is a 25.67ft cat (unstayed) designed by Gary Hoyt and built in fiberglass by Freedom Yachts since 1981.

The Freedom 25 is a light sailboat which is a good performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

Freedom 25 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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1982 Freedom 25 Technical Specs

General data about freedom 25, engine and power specs, dimensions and wieght, detailed specifications, features and equipments, other equipments, interior specifications, electronical and electrical info, deck hardware.

• Freedom provided us with the latest version of its 25 service repair manual
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Freedom Sailboat

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I am a complete novice at this, so please be nice. I have looked at a Freedom sailboat and I am wondering what other peoples opinions of these boats are. I want to be able to cruise the Gulf Coast and beyond. The 33'' ketch I looked at had a centerboard and to me (unknowing) seemed to be very well made. The ideal of free standing masts is really appealing to me. Can some of you offer your opinion and what you know first hand about this brand. Thanks.  

You will get better comments than mine from more knowledgeable participants. But I have known a few owners and they comented that jibing was out of the question, they go all the way around instead. These were on single rigs however, not cat ketches. I have also heard that they do not point well because of the fat mast not allowing proper luff filling. I would like to try one out sometime however as the simplicity is appealing. Gene  

Respectfully you “heard” wrong, in my opinion. I purchased and sailed a Freedom 30 for over a year now, and have not seen such anomalies. I agree you should experience one for yourself.  

I am somewhat familiar with the ketch rigged centerboard model of the 33. I helped a friend who lived in Savannah but was buying one here in Annapolis. I got to go through the boat quite carefully during the survey and to sail on the sail trial which actually was quite long and involved a pretty wide range of windspeeds. I frankly saw very little that I liked about these boats. In terms of sailing ability, the boat offered Okay reaching performance but was a very poor sailor in light and heavier air, and poor at pointing or running. This boat had the wrap around sail which was a bear to raise and which tended to creep around the mast leaving extra cloth on one side of the mast that tended to flap really killing speed and shaking the whole boat as the windspeeds built up. Key sail shaping controls were inaccessible under the wrap around portion of the sail. Sail shape was imposible to maintain as the wind came up and sails would be extremely expensive for this boat (kind of like buying four mainsails). In the survey a whole raft of problems came up but most serious were extensive delamination in the cored hull in those areas below the deck scuppers. In examining the specific detail used at the scuppers, I believe that this condition was bound to happen to any Freedom 33 constructed in the same manner as the boat I was on. With all due respect, I find myself saying this a lot lately and in fact this part is cloned from another reply earlier this week, but here goes. We all come to sailing with our own specific needs, our own specific goals and our own specific capabilities. The neat thing about sailing is that we all don’t have to agree that there is only one right way to go sailing. There is no more truth in expecting that there is one universally right answer about many aspects of sailing than there is in trying to prove that vanilla ice cream is universally better than strawberry ice cream. One area of sailing for which there is no one universally right answer involves the amount of knowledge one needs to go sailing. For some, all they need or want to know about sailing is just enough knowledge to safely leave the slip sail where they want and get back safely. There is nothing inherently wrong with that approach. But for others, like myself, there is much more to sailing than simply developing a rudimentary knowledge of sailing basics. If you fall into that camp, it is next to impossible to learn to sail really well on a boat as large as the one in question. While I am in no way suggesting that this makes sense for you personally, If you are interested in learning to sail beyond a rudimentary level, this kind of boat is a really lousey choice for a first boat. For someone who really wants to learn to sail well, I strongly suggest that they start out owning a used 23 to 27 foot, responsive, light-weight, tiller steered, fin keel/spade rudder (ideally fractionally rigged) sloop (or if they are athletically inclined then a dinghy.) Boats like that provide the kind of feedback that is so necessary to teach a newcomer how to really sail well. By sailing well I mean understanding the nuances of boat handling and sail trim in a way that cannot be learned on a larger boat. Used small boats generally hold their values quite well so that after a few years or so of learning, you should be able to get most of your money out of the small boat and move on to a bigger boat actually knowing something about the desirable characteristics of a boat that appeal to you as an experienced sailor rather than some stranger on some Internet BB. Respectfully, Jeff  

Jeff raises a good point. The Freedom cat-rigged ketch is not a straightforward arrangement. It would be better to learn on a conventional rig. You'll develop skills that have more widespread application. All catboats are trimmed differently and sail differently from sloops. As far as gybing, it depends. I've owned a Nonsuch 30 and a Freedom 25. Both are extremely fast boats offwind. But can be tricky to gybe in heavy air. The poster was correct. Many catboat sailors opt to 'wear ship'.  

I was also interested in Freedom Yachts some time ago. I started a post here solociting comparison between Pearson and Freedom that you may want to check out.  

Contact CardiacPaul, he owned one of these for a long time, and IIRC loved it. Most of the boats have had the clunky mast furled sail systems replaced with new conventional furling systems. TPI has a good reputation for working with carbon fiber, and makes a good boat. Notwithstanding Jeff's well informed criticism of them, I think they are good boats if you are suited to them. Many of the unfavorable sailing characteristics which he points out would be corrected with the conventional furling methods on most refits. This has no bearing on his or others' comments on what boat to sail. As for The Freedom 33, I think the centerboard version is not as useful as the full keel version, simply because of the huge CB trunk in the middle of the cabin. But you can get them more cheaply as a result. Other issues on these boats include surface delamination on the spars due to their wrapped construction. You need to examine the masts closely to determine if the fiberglass which encases the carbon fiber has cracked. This could be an expensive fix. There is also a documented issue with spider cracks on the gelcoat. Google Freedom owners groups and ask these questions before going any further. For what it is worth, I agree with Jeff that this is not the boat to learn to sail on. Good luck! Freeman  

Jeff has no idea what he's talking about Everyone knows Strawberry ice cream is better than Vanilla. JH, hope all is well. Haven't spoken in a very long time.  

I simply loved the 33. I don't know if it was easy to sail because I knew how to sail, or it was easy to sail because it was... easy to sail. And it was easy to sail. I had those damn wrap arounds, and because I'm as strong as your typical 12 year old, I had to plan my raising of the sails. It was easy to reef. I do agree with Jeff that its probably not the boat to 'learn" on, but, that being said, if you're interested in one, ask the former owner to spend some time on her with you. In lieu of that, theres another thread going that lists a VERY good contact about these boats. The CB version does cut down on cabin space, it wouldn't have been a problem for us, I can see where it'd be a pain for others. On the upside, they don't draw a heck of a lot with the board up (and it doesn't need to be fully deployed either) so the bene's outweigh the PITA factor. IMHO I know there was an "issue" concerning gelcoat crazing. I don't know anything about that, we were in texas sun, and never had a problem on a 25 year old boat. It held up a heck of a lot better than my 27 catalina (nothing against the catalina either) I think it has a lot to do with many other issues not to be addressed here. Theres been a lot of talk about CF masts and again, I think its because of the relative "oddity" of them that makes people hypersensative. Maybe I wasn't in strong enough winds, but I don't remember any discernable "flex" of the mast. Same with the "lightning" issue. i don't think, but I can't prove that they're any more apt to be struck than anything else. Damage from lightning? I can't say about that either... LOL, I don't know a heck of a lot do I? In short, If I had the chance to get a centerboard 33 here in S. Florida, I'd be all over it like a fat kid on a snickers bar.  

And I'm still looking for mine!  

Greetings all, I am new to this site as well, but having just purchased a Freedom 28 Cat Sloop (is that how you say that?) I must say the mast is a delight. I have the wing mast as opposed to the round one. We went sailing for the first time since the sea trial..which wasn't very long, and the boat performed really well. One of the interesting things I noticed about the mast is that by over rotating the mast a bit, more air flows into the sail. I am sure this cannot happen with the round carbon fiber mast. I was sailing in light air (5-10 knots) and the boat did well. Not however as well as if I had a Jib hanging out there for sure. I have owned a Cal 24 (not flush deck), a Frisco Flyer, an S&S 34' Yawl, and a Kettenburg PCC 46. While the Freedom does not sail anywhere as well as most of those (Better than the Frisco Flier though!) it IS a VERY easy boat to sail.. Point, and shoot. Not fast but acceptable. Downwind, I cannot see much keeping up with it when the spinnaker is flown. Its suprisingly fast downwind. This is not the last boat I will own, and probably not the last one even this year. In The Leigh will be for sale sometime in the spring after she has been lovingly restored. For me, the love is fixing her while I sail her. Nothing quite so nice as simply messing about in boats...  

ok.. I was reading the posting above me, and posted the wrong thing.. I own a Freedom 25' Cat Sloop, not a 28. UGH.. brain farts.  

Still Looking to sell Leigh? Hi - I realize this thread is pretty old, but I see you mentioned that you might be looking to sell your Freedom 25 sometime in the future....that's now.... Still planning to let it go? Where are you located? Bill  

Good to hear from you Michael. What sort of work are you doing on the boat these days? Bill  

I own a Freedom 25 in Savannah, GA that I bought from my parents. I have been sailing it since 1987. It is a wonderful boat to sail. It is very fast as I raced it for 12 years. The forward mast makes the Freedom a very forgiving boat. You can purchase a jib that has a built in forestay to give you additional pointing ability if you want. Off the wind with the large main there are not many boats that will keep up. A few years ago I raced a race that allowed no spinnakers. We beat 30 and 40 foot boats. We would lose a little to the wind with the larger boats, but on a reach and downwind she was untouchable. If we could have thrown the kite up no one would have stayed up with us. As for jibing, it is no different than any other boat. I have raced on Catalina 25's, 27's, 30's and Thomas 35 as well as have sailed on many others including a Freedom 35. Jibing can be controlled with the main sheet just like any other boat. Best bet is to see if you can take a test sail if you can. The Freedom line is very stable. Drawing it's design from a Cat boat that was designed as a stable fishing boat. It is meant to be crewed by 1 to 2 people. I have sailed it single handed many times. You will have fun with this boat.  

Interesting comments ...... I've just purchased Freedom 32 and never hesitated or seriously look at any other boat. She is slightly damaged and that will be my winter project. Looking forward for my first sail on her. Cheers.  

I also own a Freedom 28 Cat ketch, centerboard version and think the boat is very well designed, well thought out and sails Great! I am an experienced sailor with blue water experience and time campaigning modern go fast boats & dinghy's like the 470, 505, J-100, and Melges 24. I did learn to sail in dinghies & totally agree that the way to learn how to sail is in a small responsive boat, like a dinghy or small, tender keel boat. Once you know what your doing & how to do it, the Freedom is a great platform for fun sailing. I have the wrap around sails & am changing now to singly-ply, full battened sails, to get more roach aloft for better pointing & light air performance. Off the wind, or even close reaching in 5-knots or better, she sails great. In real light wind she has a little trouble getting going to windward, but she goes and has that nice diesel if time is running short. As a catboat, she can't point like a sloop, but crack off a few degrees, and you are off. I have no trouble with jibes or tacks - favorite on-board hail is "Tacking, everyone do nothing!" I also use a downwind "screecher" which I can fly from either mast, depending upon point of sail, but it must be doused and reset on jibes, unless I'm flying it off the end of the pulpit. She was initially called a "broad reacher" and a recommended configuration was with the apparent wind at about 150-degrees or so, set the main way out to windward, at about 110 - 120 degrees from center-line, set the missen to leeward, and fly the screecher in the hole between them - very fast & very balanced, and will keep you moving even in light air. I cruise her, and gunkhole with the board up. Planning some real traveling in her for next summer. A very nice, solid boat. - Andy Garte  

I too am considering a Freedom primarily due to the ease of single handing, not only under sail but also getting in and out of slips and in close quarters. All boats are a compromise and opinions vary depending on priorities. After reading almost every post on every site I'm noticing a distinct trend. Those who own or have owned Freedoms almost universally love them, love the way they sail and experience few if any of the concerns expressed by those who have not, many of whom seem to be very knowledgeable on sailboats in general. The mast issue is especially frustrating due to its criticality. It would be nice to know what percentage of Freedoms have actual mast failures as compared to other of comparable size/use. Same with pointing. Some stats comparing actual up wind performance would settle the issue. Is the upwind performance so poor as to cause concern when dealing with a lee shore? If not, the performance on all other points of sail would seem to more than offset the upwind performance. I do notice almost no concern with quality of build except oddly universal concern about the almost universal use of cored hull. I appreciate all the discussion and especially the conflicting views as they identify important issues for further investigation. Now, I must find a way to eliminate a Nonsuch from consideration... other than price :=)  

Upwind comparison stats will be hard to find. What I can offer is that I raced mine for the first time last year against a large variety of boats while towing a 10' RIB with motor attached. The first race was a about a 5 mile beat close hauled in which an IC24 (modified J24), Benetau 40, Ericson 36, Jeanneau 45, and Starrett 45 beat me to the mark (island). Rounding the small island the course was a deep reach for about 4 miles to another mark (island). During the reach I gained substantial distance on all the boats ahead of me. Leaving that island to port the course was a DDW run for another 5.5 miles to the finish. During the run and having my sails wing and wing I passed everything except for the IC24 flying a spinn and surfing the waves. Had the course been even .25 miles longer I would have passed the IC too. Everything except for the IC owed me time. The next day was an upwind beat in which I finished 4th on corrected time. The IC, owing everyone time, finished 1st by a large margin boat on boat. The Bene 40 with an experienced race crew was 2nd. The Ericson 36' was 3rd. After handicaps applied my Freedom finished 3rd overall towing a heavy RIB being beat by an IC that goes to weather extremely well and a well sailed Bene 40. Your question about sailing off of a lee shore. Through an unfortunate chain of events I found myself leaving an anchorage and slowly motoring through a narrow channel straight into about 15kts of wind when I lost propulsion. The main (forward) sail was raised about 2/3 before the lee shore started looking a little too close for comfort. On the helm I was able to pick up enough speed and point high enough to find a comfortable angle away from the shore for a couple of minutes before making a slow tack. In the middle of the tack I was able to get the sail the rest of the way up. Off onto a port tack and sailing with a good sail shape we easily sailed off the shore while raising the mizzen. One more tack and we were very clear and sailing away with a large enough safety margin for me to leave the helm and see WTF happened causing this little bit of unwanted excitement. In essence we sailed off of a lee shore with a partially raised sail with a horrible sail shape.  

FarCry said: Upwind comparison stats will be hard to find. What I can offer is that I raced mine for the first time last year against a large variety of boats while towing a 10' RIB with motor attached. The first race was a about a 5 mile beat close hauled in which an IC24 (modified J24), Benetau 40, Ericson 36, Jeanneau 45, and Starrett 45 beat me to the mark (island). Rounding the small island the course was a deep reach for about 4 miles to another mark (island). During the reach I gained substantial distance on all the boats ahead of me. Leaving that island to port the course was a DDW run for another 5.5 miles to the finish. During the run and having my sails wing and wing I passed everything except for the IC24 flying a spinn and surfing the waves. Had the course been even .25 miles longer I would have passed the IC too. Everything except for the IC owed me time. The next day was an upwind beat in which I finished 4th on corrected time. The IC, owing everyone time, finished 1st by a large margin boat on boat. The Bene 40 with an experienced race crew was 2nd. The Ericson 36' was 3rd. After handicaps applied my Freedom finished 3rd overall towing a heavy RIB being beat by an IC that goes to weather extremely well and a well sailed Bene 40. Your question about sailing off of a lee shore. Through an unfortunate chain of events I found myself leaving an anchorage and slowly motoring through a narrow channel straight into about 15kts of wind when I lost propulsion. The main (forward) sail was raised about 2/3 before the lee shore started looking a little too close for comfort. On the helm I was able to pick up enough speed and point high enough to find a comfortable angle away from the shore for a couple of minutes before making a slow tack. In the middle of the tack I was able to get the sail the rest of the way up. Off onto a port tack and sailing with a good sail shape we easily sailed off the shore while raising the mizzen. One more tack and we were very clear and sailing away with a large enough safety margin for me to leave the helm and see WTF happened causing this little bit of unwanted excitement. In essence we sailed off of a lee shore with a partially raised sail with a horrible sail shape. Click to expand...

Windward, leeward, round-the-buoy sailing is fun in a Freedom, but generally won't put you on top of the standings. IMHO, the boat shines in longer, downwind or beam reach, and high wind courses. Now, if I could just hurry up and become a better sailor.... I am getting better at pointing, and have not had any problems with the mast or cored-decks. I LOVE my boat. As to stats, if you find any please let me know. I have a 141 PHRF (non-spinnaker rating).  

I think that your rating of 141 is a good indicator of the relative performance hit that the Freedom's take for having a freestanding rig. I believe that you said that you have a Mull-designed Freedom 38. Mull was one of the best race boat designers of that era and designed some very fast boats. To put the impact of the freestanding rig in proportion, compare the Freedom 38 rating of 141 to the rating on something conservative like an Ericson 38 at 111, or my 38 foot performance cruiser, which is a 10 year older design, at 87 with spinnaker (non-spinnaker rating in Maine of 99). A ten year newer Mull design should have been as fast, or faster than the Ericson 38 or an older Farr 38 rather than owing 40-50 seconds a mile. I suspect the speed difference comes from the greater drag of the freestanding rig, the heavier structure required to support a free standing rig, and the distortions in the hull form that are needed to carry the mast that far forward. Jeff  

Great information regarding Freedom boats! I don't race mine (1984 Freedom32) but after extensive repair work couple of years ago I single handed sailed her to Bahamas and back to Nova Scotia and was extremely happy with her performance especially in rough weather, and easy reefing system! Unfortunately do to a health reasons, boat will be offered for sale early spring!  

Does any body have a n opinion on a 1984 28' Freedom Cat Ketch. I will appreciate your thoughts.  

I sailed on a couple and really dig them, enough in fact, to consider buying one locally. A couple issues I see though - one is on earlier models that have wraparound luff sails as opposed to conventional track luff. They are alleged to be difficult to raise, and lose their shape in a breeze. The other issue is that they have balsa cored hull and deck. On a boat as old as they are, I would be wary of wet cores. It difficult enough to repair cored decks. A rotten balsa cored hull would be disastrous. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk  

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• Sailboat Reviews

An easy-to-sail sloop with a fair turn of speed, beamy accommodations and surprising offshore capability.

The Freedom 32 appeared about midway in the evolution of Freedom Yachts. Garry Hoyt of Newport, Rhode Island, retired advertising executive and champion one-design sailor, founded the company in 1976, with the Freedom 40 cat ketch. With this boat he reintroduced the unstayed cat ketch rig whose origins date to the 19th century and boats such as the New Haven sharpies used for oystering. Similarly, the Freedom 32 can trace its ancestry to the catboats of Barnegat and Buzzards Bays.

It was Hoyt who resurrected these moribund concepts. Not that catboat builders had ceased altogether, but it was he who used modern materials, and exceptional marketing skill, to bring unstayed rigs into the mainstream.

The prototype Freedom 40 had sweeps (long oars) in place of an engine, shallow draft and a centerboard. She was fleet. Hoyt sailed her around the Caribbean, making appearances at Antigua Race Week. In 1977 he won the Cruising Class of the Rolex Cup Regatta in St. Thomas.

A slightly modified version went into production, of which 62 hulls were sold, ending in 1982 and replaced by the Freedom 44, which was campaigned for a few years in long-distance ocean races. Other cat ketches in the traditional line included the 28 and 33. A change in direction began with the Ron Holland-designed Freedom 39, first offered as a schooner, later a ketch.

The first single-sail Freedoms appeared in the early 1980s—the Freedom 21 and 25. The 32 was introduced in 1983, with a round carbon fiber mast instead of the rotating wing spar that made the 25 so effective upwind, and without the wrap-around sails of the earlier ketches. In several ways, Hoyt’s explorations far from the norm taught him that the old standby sloop isn’t such a bad thing. With the 32, his own design, he added a vestigial jib to improve upwind performance. Hoyt called it a “cat sloop.”

The boat remained in production for four years, terminating in 1986 after about 90 boats had been sold.

Design By most standards, the Freedom 32 is a big 32-footer. For starters, it actually measures 32′ 8″ overall. With a displacement of 9,000 lbs. on a 25′ 9″ waterline, the displacement/length ratio (D/L) is 258, which is considered moderate—light enough to be fairly fast and heavy enough to carry cruising stores. (Because the D/L is directly related to the volume of the hull form, the higher the D/L, the more space for cruising gear.) Most of the 505 sq. ft. sail area is in the big roach, full batten 400 sq. ft. mainsail. The sail area/displacement ratio (SA/D) is 18.7, which is generous for what is essentially a cruising boat, and at about the maximum for an offshore boat.

Owing to its 12′ 3″ beam, there is considerable initial stability, enabling crew to carry full sail up to 20+ knots of breeze. One respondent to our Boat Owner’s Questionnaire said, “I don’t think of reefing until 25 knots if with crew, or 22 knots if alone.”

The keel is a 6′ fin with a shoal draft option at 4′ 11″. The rudder is a balanced spade that provides excellent maneuverability. Traditionalists argue that full keels with attached rudders, or at least skeg-hung rudders, are best for cruising, protecting as they do the vulnerable rudder. And there is merit in such logic. But such thinking is becoming increasingly passé. In most fin keelboats, the keel is deeper than the rudder, thereby taking the first hit in the event of a grounding. Rudderstocks of solid stainless steel or carbon fiber are exceptionally strong; it will take considerable force to bend them. And some proponents, such as author and circumnavigator Steve Dashew, argue that fin keels provided much needed maneuverability not only at docks but in severe storm conditions.

Owners describe the exterior appearance as “odd,” “different” and “beauty lies in the eye of the beholder.” What sets the Freedom 32 apart is not the topsides or sheer, but the cabin line, which extends straight from forward of the mast aft to the end of the cockpit. The line is accentuated by a wide band of colored gelcoat, generally blue, inside of which the three windows are set port and starboard.

The transom also is a bit different, with a very slight reverse angle. One expects it to either be perfectly vertical, or raked more than it is. Beam is carried fairly well aft, less so forward to give a reasonably fine entry. To reduce wetted surface area, beam at deck diminishes considerably at the waterline.

As mentioned earlier, the boat’s generous beam gives it good initial stability, but detracts from its ultimate stability, that is, the boat’s ability to right itself from a knockdown or rollover. No 32s are listed in US Sailing’s “Performance Characteristic Profile of the North American IMS Fleet,” but two other Freedoms are—a 35 with a length of positive stability of 110.1 and a 44 centerboard at 107.7, both under the 120 recommended minimum for offshore work. Nevertheless, we know of a number of 32s that have made safe and successful ocean passages, including transatlantic, so there is always more to a good boat than the right numbers.

“Suspect low ratings, capsize length,” wrote the owner of a 1985 model.

Construction The Freedom 32, like other early Freedoms, was built by Tillotson-Pearson Industries (now TPI), headed by Everett Pearson. TPI was and remains a strong proponent of balsa-core construction. At the risk of beating a dead horse, the pros and cons of balsa are: Extremely stiff and light sandwich construction, but at the risk of moisture/water soaking the core and causing delamination. With proper building techniques, the risk are minimized, and TPI has certainly been one of the best builders of balsa-cored structures.

For owners, the key is proper bedding of through-hulls and deck hardware. If adding new through-hulls, the wrong way is to simply take a hole saw, cut to the dimension of the through-hull or transducer, stick in the through-hull with some bedding and tighten the inside nut. The right way is to drill the hole slightly oversize from the inside, but not all the way through the outer skin. Stop there, with just the drill bit penetrating the outer skin. Remove the inner skin and balsa. Fill the hole with epoxy mixed with microballoons or other suitable filler. (You’ll have to tape stiff cellophane against the hull to keep the mixture from sagging.) Then, using the pilot hole in the outer skin as a guide, drill the correct size hole from the outside. This method leaves, say, a 1/2″ ring of solid epoxy around the through-hull, thus preventing any possibility of water from entering the core.

Deck hardware bedding inevitably grows old and with loads on cleats and stanchions, eventually cracks, always out of sight where you can’t see them. You might not even notice water drips or discoloration inside on the headliner, but that doesn’t mean water hasn’t entered the core surrounding the bolt hole. A good preventive job on older boats—and these Freedom 32s are coming up on 20 years—is to remove deck hardware and rebed. Few jobs go further in extending the life of your boat. And from a financial perspective, a boat with a spongy, delaminated deck isn’t worth as much as one with a sound deck.

The Freedom 32 was built before TPI started using its SCRIMP method. But TPI was perhaps the first production builder to use vinylester resin on the outer lamination to help minimize the chance of osmotic blistering. The glass used was mostly conventional E-glass mat and unidirectional fabrics.

The mast is carbon fiber and was warranted for lifetime to the original buyer. Hoyt and TPI went through some growing pains developing their unstayed spars, but ended up with good, strong spars wound over a mandrel.

Ballast is lead and sufficiently low to permit a fairly deep sump for collection of bilge water. Few things bug us more than shallow sumps that allow water to slosh out when the boat is heeled.

Standard tankage includes 30 gallons of fuel under the forward dinette seat, nearly on centerline, and a 55-gallon water tank under the starboard settee. An additional 50-gallon water tank under the V-berth was an option. If selected, 105-gallon capacity would be a lot for a boat this size—a real plus for cruisers. One owner, however, cautioned against the optional V-berth tank, suggesting instead to locate a second tank under the port dinette to “keep 350 pounds out of the forward end of the boat. A full forward water tank lifts the toilet intake clear out of the water! And a full starboard tank creates a 3-degree list—most dismaying.” Another owner had the factory relocated the toilet intake.

Accommodations The Freedom 32 was a bit unusual for its time in that it provided two separate sleeping cabins—the V-berth forward (about 6-1/2′), with optional head and sink, and an aft cabin with double berth under the cockpit (also about 6-1/2′). To port of the companionway ladder (with tool chest under two of the steps) is a hanging locker and some drawers with the L-shaped galley forward of it. To starboard is the head with shower and wet locker. Just forward of it is a sit-down nav station with batteries underneath.

Amidships is a U-shaped dinette to port with a table that folds out to serve persons sitting on the starboard settee, or drops down to make a double berth. These berths are about 6′.

Owners rated interior joinerwork as very good. “The woodwork is superb,” wrote the owner of a 1984 model. “Beautiful wood finishing by New England craftsmen,” said another.

The bulkheads and berth faces are teak-faced plywood and the hull behind the settees and forward is covered with an ash ceiling. The cabin sole is teak and holly.

Headroom is just over 6′.

For sea berths, one will want to rig a lee cloth on the starboard settee and some sort of dividing board down the middle of the double berth aft.

For extended cruising, any boat with a 25 waterline and moderate D/L is going to be a bit short on stowage and the Freedom 32 is no exception. But there are places to put things under the berths and there are shelves behind the dinette and settee. It will take some creativity and tough decision-making, but adequate equipment, spare parts and provisions can be carried for a couple or small family.

The cockpit is large and comfortable, with fairly high seatbacks that are contoured forward and aft. The bridge is the same level as the seats, which provides security from green water in the cockpit and creates more space below.

The helmsman’s seat is an elevated half-circle and there is a folding table attached to the steering pedestal. The coamings are wide enough to sit on and there are cubbies in them port and starboard. Also to port is a propane locker. To starboard is a generous seat locker.

A dodger can be fitted over the companionway from which all sail controls can be reached. This means that if sailing with an autopilot or steering vane, one could operate the boat from the protection of the dodger and companionway.

Performance Hoyt claimed that the Freedom 32 was as fast or faster than any similarly sized cruising boat. PHRF ratings are all over the place but typical numbers for the shoal keel range between 180 and 190 seconds per mile. The deep keel has ratings between 165 and 183. The Hunter 32 Vision, Islander 32-3 and Pearson 323 have similar numbers. To put these numbers in perspective, the fleet J/32 rates between 114 and 130, while a heavier Island Packet 32 comes in at 213.

What the Freedom 32 is really about, however, is easy sail handling. It derives most of its power from the large, full batten mainsail, made possible by the absence of a backstay (indeed, there are no stays altogether). She was designed to be sailed under main alone, like a catboat. But to improve upwind ability by means of creating a slot effect, the small 105 sq. ft. jib was added. It is self-tending and has a CamberSpar (a flexible batten that tensions the clew and inverts itself on each tack) so that efficient headsail shape is maintained even off the wind. Imagine sailing upwind and not having to touch any sheet or winch when tacking—just turn the wheel! That’s what Garry Hoyt was after, believing that the work of handling sheets and grinding winches was putting too many people off sailing.

A more remarkable innovation was his patented Hoyt Gun Mount that enables crew to hoist, trim and douse a spinnaker from the safety of the cockpit. It starts with a very strong bow pulpit to which is fitted a swiveling tube. Instead of a pole, a “yard” is extended and retracted through the tube by means of lines led aft. The clews of the spinnaker are attached to each end of the yard so that you can’t possibly make too much of a mess of it. We’ve seen Hoyt sail this rig in 360s and even backwards, with nary a wrap.

This system solves the problem of people loafing downwind because they feel it’s too much trouble to set a spinnaker or even pole out the genoa wing and wing.

When we first sailed with the Hoyt Gun Mount, we felt sure that other companies would buy it, but alas, it appears to have not caught on. Indeed, even Freedom, now under different ownership, foregoes this clever system.

“The Hoyt Gun Mount,” wrote the owner of a 1984 boat, “works pretty much as described. I can hoist the spinnaker single-handed from the cockpit without dousing the jib.”

Owners also report that the boat is very maneuverable—“Turns on a nickel, not a dime,” said one. The downside is that the boat requires a lot of attention to the helm in most conditions. The exception is in moderate breezes upwind, when the helm may be sufficiently neutral to simply lock the wheel and correctly trim the sails. The rest of the time, however, the large mainsail, fin keel and spade rudder make her a bit nervous and she’ll want to be hand steered. Tracking isn’t its strong suit.

But not all owners sum it up this way, describing balance as “superb” and “perfect.”

The boat’s wide beam relative to its length makes it fairly stiff. “Goes to 12 degrees quickly, then stops,” said one owner.

The 32 is equally maneuverable under power with its three-cylinder, freshwater-cooled Yanmar 22-hp. diesel, located under the aft dinette seat.

Conclusion The Freedom 32, like its smaller sisterships, the 21 and 25, is easy to sail, quick and best of all, fun. The self-tending jib and Hoyt Gun Mount take the grunt work out of upwind and downwind sailing. What’s not to like about that?

Construction is above average, both in terms of the structural laminate and interior joinerwork. The only exterior teak is in the handrails and companionway channels, so you won’t be spending a lot of time cleaning and oiling/varnishing brightwork.

For coastal cruising, the boat would seem ideal. Surprisingly, a number of owners have made ocean passages, reeling off 140-mile days. But there are reasons to think twice about selecting this boat for such use—ultimate stability, attention required to the helm, and the fact she doesn’t heave to well. One experienced passagemaker, reporting in Bluewater Sailing, said that in high winds he goes with either just the jib or jib and triple-reefed main.

Base price new was $67,500, and with options such as electronics they were going out the door between $75,000 and $85,000. Today they sell used in the mid- to high $40s.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

I am wondering about converting a Freedom 40 ketch to wing type sails . Any idea of cost & possible problems? It still has the aluminum sail holders forget what they are called. THANKS Phil.

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Freedom 25 Staysail

Freedom 25 Staysail is a 25 ′ 7 ″ / 7.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Gary Hoyt and built by TPI Composites starting in 1980.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Freestanding rotating mast. Staysail only on some models.

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