sailboat data alberg 30

Alberg 30: the Boat

Glenn Brooks, owner of Dolce #318, has compiled a list of Alberg30 Circumnavigations (PDF).

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First impressions The Alberg 30 bears the unmistakable signature of Carl Alberg, a look evident in so many boats from this period, including the Pearson Triton, Bristol 27 and Alberg 37. The look, which was modern in its day, is now considered traditional, at least when defined in terms of fiberglass boats. The long overhangs, springy sheer, low freeboard, cutaway full keel with an attached rudder, narrow beam, stair-stepped cabintrunk and moderate sailplan are trademark Alberg. It is safe to say that the Alberg 30 traces its roots to the Scandinavian Folkboat, as most of Alberg's designs do, and the hull shape represents the transition that was taking place as builders switched from wood to fiberglass construction. The Alberg 30 may not be the quickest boat afloat, especially in light air, but don't be misled by the specs. With slack bilges and just 8 feet, 9 inches of beam, the boat is initially tender. The short waterline increases as the boat heels and the Alberg 30 finds its stride when other boats are being overpowered. The boat has a seakindly motion, although it can hobbyhorse in a seaway. The Alberg 30 is a proven blue water cruiser; indeed, Yves Gelinas circumnavigated in one by way of Cape Horn in his Alberg 30 Jean de Sud.

Construction Most Alberg 30s have held up very well over the years, a tribute to Whitby's solid construction. There was nothing fancy about the building process, but like other early fiberglass boats, there was no shortage of material used in the 30's hull and deck. The hull is hand-laid, solid fiberglass bonded with polyester resin. Early decks and cabintrunks were partially cored with Masonite, while those built after 1970 used more common balsa coring. Early boats used a laminated wood beam to support the mast, while later boats were fitted with an aluminum beam encased in a fiberglass liner. Later boats also incorporated a fiberglass pan for the cabin sole and as a base for the furniture. Whitby made similar changes in its other successful Alberg design, the 37. The ballast is iron, encapsulated in the keel cavity. According to some reports, Alberg specified lead ballast and a few of the earliest boats were quite tender until extra ballast was added.

What to look for Like any boat, there are a few items to watch for when inspecting used Alberg 30s. Unlike other boats, however, the Alberg 30's flaws have not only been well documented by respective class associations over the years, but solutions to the problems are just as well documented. If you are looking at a pre-1970 boat, for example, be sure to check the wooden mast support beam. The beam may well be cracked after years of flexing under load, and it is not unusual to find a retrofitted aluminum plate to beef up the support. Be sure to probe around on deck to see if depressions are evident around the maststep. Deck delamination is another problem to watch for, so carefully sound the decks, listening for the telltale creaking sounds that reveal rot in the core. Again, this seems more common in older boats, and don't overreact to a bit of deck delamination as almost every old boat has it to some degree. Another common problem is the attachment of the forward lower chainplates, which are not well supported belowdecks. In fact, Jean de Sud lost her mast in the Pacific when a chainplate pulled out. Naturally, be sure to inspect all the components of the standing rigging, including the chainplates themselves, which can be bent and fatigued after years of hard use. The type of engine may influence your buying decision since the need to repower the boat will certainly skew your budget. In fact, adding a new diesel can cost almost as much as the boat itself when you include the cost of installation. The earliest boats were fitted with 22-horsepower Gray Marine gas engines. Most Alberg 30s, however, came standard with a 30-horsepower Universal Atomic 4 gas engine, the workhorse of the industry for many years. Some of the later boats came with diesels, either a single cylinder Bukh or a two-cylinder Volvo.

On deck The Alberg 30's cockpit is fairly large and the seats are long enough to stretch out on. There is good leg support on either tack, but the mahogany coaming board does get you in the small of the back after a while. Tiller steering was standard, and while there must be some wheel-steered 30s, I haven't seen one. There is a stout bridgedeck, typical of all Alberg designs. Circumnavigator Gelinas notes that he can fit two folding bikes in the cockpit lockers. There is also a lazarette astern. The boat can be wet when sailing upwind and a spray dodger is a useful addition. Like many CCA-influenced designs, the Alberg 30 has a long boom and the mainsheet features end-boom sheeting, usually led to a traveler aft of the cockpit. It's likely the sheet winches have been upgraded, although it isn't necessary as the headsail loads are not overly heavy. The 30 is not a close-winded boat and the headsail tracks are on the rail to clear the shrouds. The single-spreader sloop rig carries 410 square feet of sail, with more than half of that area in the mainsail. The lifelines and low stanchions are not designed to keep an adult from going overboard, but there are teak handrails on the raised portion of the cabintrunk. The nonskid may be worn, and if the decks have been painted they may be slick when wet. The mooring hardware is more than adequate.

Down below The Alberg 30's interior seems incredibly small by modern standards-it isn't much of a stretch to say that there is more room in a new Hunter 260, heck maybe even the 240. But then of course, the comparison is absurd, since the Alberg 30 is a completely different animal. The interior arrangement is straightforward, and nobody will ever accuse Alberg of resorting to gimmicks. There is a V-berth forward with an enclosed head aft to port with a hanging locker opposite. The saloon has settees port and starboard and a clever portable dining table mounted on an aluminum Z-shaped leg. When not in use, the table stows over the V-berth. A small galley is to starboard, usually with a single sink facing aft and a two-burner stove next to it. A good-sized icebox is located to port and early boats had an access hatch from the cockpit. The interior may be small, but the workmanship is good, and it has a snug feeling to it. The large saloon ports keep it well lit although the ventilation usually consists of only the forward-opening deck hatch, which of course is usually secured when under way. There is a lot of storage, with drawers and lockers throughout.

Engine As mentioned earlier, the first boats were equipped with a 22-horsepower Gray Marine gas engines (the infamous Sea Scout). Early on, however, the standard engine became the Universal Atomic 4, which can still be found in many boats. Bukh and Volvo diesels were used late in the production run. Efficient motoring and engine access were not priorities in most Alberg designs, and the 30 is no exception. The engine is accessible from behind the companionway, although not particularly friendly to work on. The stuffing box, on the other hand, takes a contortionist and a special set of wrenches to change the packing, making the 30 a prime candidate for a dripless stuffing box. I would push a boat with a newer, refit diesel to the top of my list when searching for a used Alberg 30.

Under way Older boats that maintain loyal and active followings invariably share one key trait-they sail well. The Alberg 30 is easy to handle, will stand up to a blow and has a nice motion. The boat balances well with the main and working jib, although weather helm can be an issue when flying a genoa. All owners agree that the 30 sails best when the main is reefed early because of the initial tenderness. A rule of thumb is change or furl the headsail to keep the decks clear of water and then hold on for the ride. The Alberg 30 is designed to sail on its ear, yet the boat feels incredibly solid in the water. The old line about sailing on rails is most apropos. Gelinas, who by the way is the manufacturer of the well-respected Cape Horn self-steering vane, has owned Jean du Sud for 27 years and has logged some 50,000 miles. He notes that the boat's hull shape has a great motion at sea, although he too suggests that you reef the main early. Gelinas dispensed with his Atomic 4 engine to free up storage space, and even today only uses an outboard perched on the stern for the rare times he finds powering necessary. Conclusion With prices ranging from just over $10,000 to around $25,000, it's easy to see why the Alberg 30 is an enduring favorite. It's an ideal boat for families wanting to test the waters of sailing, or for singlehanders and couples looking for an inexpensive but capable boat for cruising. Another alluring feature of the Alberg 30 is that with the right trailer and SUV it can be hauled by road to out-of-the-way cruising grounds. "To me the Alberg 30 is very close to the ideal boat: solid enough to sail around Cape Horn but small enough to carried on the road to the cruising ground of my choice," Gelinas said.

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Odyssey 30 alberg

The odyssey 30 alberg is a 30.3ft fractional sloop designed by carl alberg and built in fiberglass since 1960., 15 units have been built..

The Odyssey 30 alberg is a very heavy sailboat which is under powered. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater cruising boat.

Odyssey 30 alberg for sale elsewhere on the web:

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ArioseNotes

Our boat: the alberg 30.

Have you heard of Carl Alberg? Less than two years ago, neither of us had heard of the man let alone his boats. Now, Carl Alberg has taken on near legendary status for us – we were dropping his name with the best of them at the Toronto International Boat Show earlier this year – and his Alberg 30 has been finding a place in our hearts while eating a hole in our pocketbook!   Actually, that’s not fair to the reasonably priced Albergs. Outfitting any boat can become pricey, and most Albergs have far fewer requirements in this department than most boats of this vintage. More on its quality in a moment.

THE DESIGNER.

Carl Alberg, a Swedish-born American, was one of North America’s most respected yacht designers. The Pearson Triton was one of his notable creations. The Cape Dory Typhoon is another. In fact, he has 47 designs to his credit, some of which continued in production after his passing. His home in Massachusetts, fittingly, overlooked the local harbour.

Not only was Alberg a skilled designer, but it seems that he had a sense of humour too. The Great Lakes Alberg Association (GLAA) has posted a letter from an early owner on its site. This person wrote to Alberg describing several groundings on rock and gravel which resulted in deep scratches. He asked for advice as to the best method to duplicate the boat’s strong construction when repairing the damage. Carl Alberg’s advise? To move to the Chesapeake Bay where the bottom is mud.

BIRTH OF THE ALBERG 30.

The 30 footer is one of the middle children of the large Alberg family. Alberg 22s, 29s, 30s, 34s, 35s, and 37s were produced. A group of sailors from Toronto Yacht Club approached Whitby Boat Works Limited of Whitby, Ontario, Canada in 1961 to design and build a boat to meet their needs. They were looking for a racer/cruiser. They wanted something built from fibreglass (boats were just beginning to transition from wood construction), with a full keel, standing headroom in the cabin, and more. Whitby Boat Works turned to Carl Alberg to design it. Some sailors from the US east coast (Washington DC and Annapolis) also were interested and placed orders. Shortly after, the Alberg 30 was born and the first boat was launched in 1963 (side note: it preceded Shirley’s “launch” by a few months). Subsequently, more than 750 Alberg 30s were produced over a 22 year run.

There continues to be a concentration of Albergs currently in Chesapeake Bay, U.S. and Toronto, Canada, where enthusiastic owners associations keep the vision alive. We’ll include links to their sites at the bottom of this page. Descriptions and testimonials of owners often sound like accounts of love affairs. Here’s why.

As Tim’s shared in an early post [Acquiring Ariose part 1], the Alberg 30 is a beautiful, graceful boat. Its design is true to the early 60s. It’s a distinctive classic boat, with long overhangs, a narrow beam, low freeboard, and a full cutaway keel-attached rudder. Compared to modern boats of similar size, the Alberg’s narrow beam and low freeboard leaves an interior that feels undersized. We think this is a small price to pay considering the dividends in terms of its stability, especially in rough seas.

The Alberg 30 seems to be a perfect combination of sturdy and sweet-sailing. Alberg 30s have a reputation for being solidly built. Whitby Boat Works was a highly regarded company and as with others pioneering in the use of fiberglass construction, they were generous, compared to modern methods, in their use of hand-laid fiber and resin. We’ve come across many accounts of groundings over the years with hardly a scratch resulting. Thankfully, we have yet to have an occasion to support or refute this claim.

A fiberglass composite rudder is attached to the keel, and a 3300 pound iron ballast is encapsulated inside the keel cavity – that should keep it upright! The deck and cabin house are constructed of fiberglass cloth and a core was used in areas for added strength. Boats built prior to 1970 utilized masonite as a core material while those built after used balsa wood. There’s quite a few reports of problems with the masonite getting soft. Some folks have taken on ambitious projects replacing the deck. Our deck seems fine, but we will know better once we open it up to do some other work. Fingers are crossed!

The cockpit and lazarette are at the stern. The mast is deck-stepped. Early boats had a laminated wood beam to support the mast and this has proven to be one another of the Alberg’s few weak points. There have been situations of failure after hard use. Most boats from that era have been retrofitted with an aluminum plate to support that area, and this seems to be an effective repair. In 1970 this was replaced by an aluminum beam encased with fiberglass. The final design flaw we’re aware of is a weakness in the attachment of the forward lower shroud chain plates. A previous owner beefed this up on Ariose … thanks, Bill and Christine!

Of course, most Alberg 30s have some problems as would be expected from the normal wear and aging of any vintage boat. We’re ever so grateful for the good care previous owners have given to our boat. She’s in good shape.

Originally, Alberg 30s were outfitted with a tiller, but many, ours included, the tiller has been replaced with a wheel.

DATING OUR BOAT – VARIATIONS OVER THE YEARS.

Our Alberg, according to 2 surveyors who based their documentation on information from the owners at that time, was built in 1971. There is no visible hull number, though, which would give it a positive identification. Its sail number is 392. If that is correct, and this sail is not a hand-me-down from another boat, Cathie Coultis, Commodore of the Great Lakes Alberg Association, through consulting Whitby Boat Works Shipping Manifest & Order Cards, has advised us that #392 was produced in 1969. At that time, the Alberg 30 was going through some changes. The main differentiating features were that the older boats had a laminated wood mast beam, no liner, masonite cored decks, their decks drained directly overboard under the toerail, and the upright icebox was accessible from the cabin and the cockpit. Newer boats had an aluminum mast beam, balsa cored decks, decks drained through hoses to cockpit scuppers, molded fiberglass pan forms cabin sole and support for furniture, and the icebox is top loading from the cabin only. It’s likely that boats starting with #409 were the newer design. Whitby Boat Works made ongoing incremental changes, and there are also a few transition boats (such as #371) that share characteristics of both, with many variations over the years when tailoring boats individual customers. Of course, most boats have had subsequent upgrades and modifications to suit successive owners. It is likely that no two boats are exactly alike.

Our boat leans toward having the features of newer Alberg 30s: mast beam (uncertain, but no signs of stress so either newer or repaired older), no liner that we can tell (older), deck (uncertain, but in good shape, so likely newer – will find out when we install some deck equipment this summer), toerail/scupper drain (newer), icebox cabin opening (newer – much to Tim’s chagrin when he thinks of the easy access to cold beer from the cockpit that he could have had).  We’re not sure which vintage of Albergs came with their own standard poodle guard dog as ours does.

So, when we assemble the pieces of this age puzzle, Ariose was built in:

• 1971 – according to some previous owners
• 1969 – according to our boat’s likely number
• pre or post 1970 – according to its features it’s either a post ‘70 boat or a pre ‘70 early forerunner of the newer models.

No definitive results, it seems.  The mystery continues. We’ll stick with assuming it is a 1969 unless new information comes to light… we like the notion of Ariose being born in the same decade we were.

SAILING QUALITIES.

As mentioned before, the Alberg 30 is known to be forgiving to sail and seaworthy enough to cross oceans. It has many circumnavigations to its credit – quite remarkable considering its relatively small size. We’ve come across accounts of 4 solo circumnavigations. We have yet to decide if this breeds confidence for us duo sailers or not. After all, if people can sail it singlehanded around the world, it must be fairly straightforward for two to do some small scale off-shore sailing? Or, does its cozy confines preclude comfortable companionship? We’ll see.

When the Alberg 30 was designed, it was considered a relatively quick boat, but not so much by modern day racing standards. We’re not interested in racing at this time, so that’s okay. The boat will not point particularly high to windward, and we find it seems happiest at a beam reach to close reach. We’ve read that the Alberg 30 shines when the going gets rough as its narrow beam allows it to slice through the waves. Modern designs that boast about ample cabin space will have their crew well tossed when in heavy seas. The Alberg 30 is said to comfortably be able to heave-to to wait out storms, although that’s probably a relative assessment as it’s hard to imagine using the words “comfortable” and “storms” in the same sentence.

• Length over all: 30 feet 3 inches
• Length at water line: 21 feet 8 inches
• Beam: 8 feet 9 inches
• Draft: 4 feet 3 inches
• Displacement: 9,000 lbs
• Sail Area: 410 sqft
• Builder: Whitby Boat Works
• Years produced: 1962-mid 1980s (various sources indicate 1984, 1986, 1987)

And that’s it from us for now about our boat, Ariose, the Alberg 30.

Here’s a few other sites we recommend if you are interested in more information on Carl Alberg’s iconic creation.

• http://www.alberg.ca/
• http://www.alberg30.org/
• http://bluewaterboats.org/alberg-30/
• http://www.albergsailboats.org/

Happy sailing!

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I’m a solo sailing Autistic adult who is exploring this fantastic world on a beautiful 1969 Alberg 30. Come and share it with me for musings about sailing solo and what it’s like to do it on the Spectrum.

ALBERG 30 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of ALBERG 30. Built by Whitby Boat Works Ltd. (CAN) and designed by Carl Alberg, the boat was first built in 1962. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 9.22. Its sail area/displacement ratio 15.21. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Universal, runs on Gas.

ALBERG 30 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about ALBERG 30 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the alberg 30.

ALBERG 30 was designed by Carl Alberg.

Who builds ALBERG 30?

ALBERG 30 is built by Whitby Boat Works Ltd. (CAN).

When was ALBERG 30 first built?

ALBERG 30 was first built in 1962.

How long is ALBERG 30?

ALBERG 30 is 6.61 m in length.

What is mast height on ALBERG 30?

ALBERG 30 has a mast height of 9.45 m.

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Alberg 30 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Alberg 30 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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Cape Dory 30

Our pick of these boats is a cutter-rigged late model with full-width galley and pedestal steering..

When the Cape Dory 30 entered production in 1976, it was the largest boat in the expanding line of the Taunton, Massachusetts boatbuilder. In 1986, when production ceased, over 350 Cape Dory 30s had been built, and what had been the largest boat in the company’s fleet was one of the smallest.

In 1986, Cape Dory introduced the Cape Dory 30 Mk II, an entirely different boat, designed in-house (rather than by Carl Alberg), longer on the waterline, 1 1/2′ wider, and with a far roomier and more modern interior.

The old Cape Dory 30 was designed as a ketch, with cutter or sloop rigs optional. In the middle of the production run, the more efficient cutter rig replaced the ketch as standard. The ketch remained an option.

The Cape Dory line always consisted of traditional- looking, long-keel cruising boats, and their appeal has been strongest on the East Coast, particularly in New England, a well-known hotbed of sailing reactionaries.

Sailing Performance

No one buys a Cape Dory looking for a flashy speedster. The original ketch rig has a lot of windage, and relatively small, inefficient sails. The rig does, however, give the boat a distinctly “shippy” traditional appearance.

A PHRF rating of about 220 shows the ketch to be a slow boat. By way of contrast, the old original C&C 25 carries about the same rating. The cutter-rigged Cape Dory 30 is about 15 seconds per mile faster.

The Cape Dory 30 was originally equipped with worm gear steering. This type of gear is powerful, foolproof, and requires no steering pedestal in the cockpit. The wheel will also hold the rudder in position without a brake. The disadvantage is that there is almost no rudder feedback, so that it’s hard to tell when the boat is properly balanced. Worm gear steering will not make you a better sailor.

The worm gear steerer is especially compatible with the original ketch rig. Since the mizzen is stepped in the middle of the cockpit, it’s nice to get the steering wheel back aft where it won’t take up any usable space. The top of the steering gear box also serves as a good helmsman’s seat.

With the cutter rig, it became feasible to put a more conventional pedestal steerer in the boat. However, moving the steerer further forward meant that the old steering box—now a storage locker—was too far away from the wheel to be used as a seat.

In practice, you usually sit to the side of the wheel with a pedestal steerer, not behind it. But this re- quires a wheel that is big enough to let you get far enough outboard to see sail trim. Most helmsmen will only sit directly behind the wheel when the boat is under power and they can see straight ahead, with no sails in the way.

The big steering wheel that’s the easiest to use with pedestal steering almost requires a T-shaped cockpit for easy maneuverability. The Cape Dory 30 stuck with the straight bench cockpit seats, and used a fairly small destroyer wheel. Although you don’t need the leverage of a big wheel on this boat, it will make steering less tiring, and there is room between the seats to fit a larger-diameter wheel. It would make it necessary to climb over the seats to go forward, however.

Most owners report that the boat—with either rig—is easy to balance under sail. The percentage reporting difficulty in balancing the boat complain of excessive weather helm on a close reach.

Hard steering when reaching is a common complaint on boats with attached rudders and a lot of rake to the rudderpost. The Cape Dory 30 does have a relatively efficient Constellation-type rudder, even if it is located about 2′ further forward than it would be with a comparable fin keel and spade rudder underbody.

Weather helm when reaching is frequently caused by overtrimming the main. On a boat without a vang, the boom tends to lift quickly as the sheet is eased, and the top of the sail twists off and begins to luff. Thinking they’ve eased the sheet too much, many sailors will at that point overtrim the main, shifting the draft of the sail aft and creating weather helm. Under those conditions, the proper thing to do with the Cape Dory 30 is use mainsheet tension to create a fair leech, then ease the traveler down to keep the whole sail working.

On both rigs, the mainsail is controlled by a traveler over the main companionway.

With the ketch rig, the mast is stepped further forward than the cutter, and the mainsheet attaches to the boom about two-thirds of the way aft, giving reasonable leverage. With the cutter, the mast location means that the mainsheet attaches almost exactly at the boom midpoint, reducing leverage and making the sail somewhat harder to trim.

In either case the traveler location at the forward end of the companionway is out of the way, but it makes installing a cockpit dodger more difficult.

The cutter’s main boom is at a reasonable height, but the taller helmsman should still watch his head when tacking.

With the advent of modern headsail reefing systems, the cutter rig is really superfluous on this boat. The small gap between the forestay and headstay makes it difficult to tack a big genoa, yet you really need a big genoa if this fairly heavy boat is to be properly powered in light air. The double head rig is fine in breezes over 15 knots, but in lighter air it’s much slower than a good number one genoa.

According to owners, the boat’s only sailing weakness is light air. With a lot of wetted surface and an inefficient foretriangle, the boat is simply not going to be fast in very light air. All in all, though, owners say the boat is faster than they expected it to be in all conditions.

With a 40% ballast/displacement ratio, the Cape Dory 30 is reasonably stiff despite the very narrow beam. You can get stability with a lot of ballast down low, or with a lot of beam. The Cape Dory 30 gets it from a lot of ballast, placed low in the hull.

With less weight aloft, the cutter should be slightly stiffer than the ketch.

Both the ketch and cutter rig use simple, untapered aluminum masts, stepped on deck. With a stiff section and double lower shrouds, these rigs are fairly foolproof.

Unlike many builders, Cape Dory put diesel engines in every inboard-powered sailboat they built after 1975. You won’t find an Atomic 4 here.

What you will find, unfortunately, is an engine installation and selection that is somewhat less than ideal.

Because this is a narrow boat with slack bilges, it wasn’t possible to get the engine far enough down in the bilge to be out of the way in a normal installation. Instead, the engine is mounted under the cockpit, using a V-drive. The engine is kept out of the way, but out of sight in this case means poor access for servicing. Getting to the alternator belts for adjustment, for example, requires crawlingunder the cockpit through a locker.

The original engine was a single-cylinder Yanmar diesel rated at 12 hp. This engine is too small for the boat, and single-cylinder engines are notorious for their vibration.

Starting with 1977 models, the Yanmar diesel was replaced with a Volvo MD7A, rated at 13 hp. The Volvo engine has more displacement, and has two cylinders. Nevertheless, some owners still complain that the boat is underpowered with the Volvo diesel.

Despite the long keel, the Cape Dory is reasonably maneuverable under power. The exception is handling in reverse, which according to many owners varies from unpredictable to impossible. This is not a characteristic unique to this boat; it is a fault of most long-keel boats with attached rudders. You learn to act as if reverse were nothing more than a set of brakes—not very good ones, at that.

Other than its location, the engine installation itself is pretty good, with dual fuel filters, 1″ bronze shaft, and oil drip pan under the engine. The fuel tank capacity of 20 gallons should give well over 200 miles range under power with any of the engines.

During the 1983 model year, a switch was made to a two-cylinder Universal diesel. We would definitely prefer a boat with either the Volvo or Universal engine over the original small Yanmar.

Construction

The Cape Dory 30 is solidly built, although there is nothing particularly innovative or unusual about the construction. The hull is a solid fiberglass laminate, the deck is balsa cored. No owners in our survey mention problems with either hull or deck construction.

A number of owners have reservations about the hull-to-deck joint, which is not through-bolted. Other owners mention that there are washers but no backing plates on deck hardware such as lifeline stanchions. Although none report problems either with deck hardware or the hull-to-deck joint, their concerns are valid. Backing plates on deck hardware help distribute loads, and reduce the chance of stress cracks around fittings. Likewise, a through-bolted hull-to-deck connection offers a foolproof mechanical backup should the polyester putty bond between the hull and deck fail. Bolts won’t stop leaks, but a through-bolted joint won’t come apart until the surrounding glass fails.

As in most boats this size, the lifeline stanchions are only 24″ high. This is too low for any real security—the lifelines strike most people just about at knee height, the right height for tripping. There are some bolts through the hull-to-deck joint, since both the lifeline stanchions and chainplates fasten through the inward-turning hull flange. We would, however, prefer to see closely-spaced bolts throughout the length of the joint.

Chainplates are cast bronze lugs bolted through the hull and deck flange. As long as the hull and deck are adequately reinforced—and they are, in this case—this type of installation is fine.

We’ve seen the same general type of chainplates on 40′ boats with Lloyds certificates, so they can’t be all bad.

All Cape Dory boats came with deck hardware— cleats, winch islands, bow fittings, seacocks and chainplates—by Spartan, a sister company to Cape

Dory. This is good stuff that will last the life of the boat and then some. The only disadvantages are that it is heavy, being bronze, and is not very well finished.

Going from burnished to polished finish just about doubles the price of a piece of hardware— polishing is very labor intensive—and on most Cape Dory 30s you’ll find burnished hardware. It’s rugged, though.

There’s a fair amount of exterior teak on these boats, including cockpit coamings, toerails, hatch trim, and eyebrow trim around the cabin on later models. This gives the boat a yachty appearance, but it does increase maintenance.

You could get the Cape Dory 30 in any color you wanted, as long as it was Cape Dory white with a nicely-contrasting tan deck. Several owners report discoloration of the colored portion of the non-skid decks. The non-skid itself is quite functional.

Early boats in this series have an unusual water tankage arrangement. One tank is plumbed to the head sink, the other to the galley.

Since you use a lot more water in the galley than in the head, that tank runs out first. Many owners have replumbed these tanks so that you can use the entire water supply.

Some early boats also have the water tank fills located below, which may be fine for keeping salt water out of the tanks, but can make for a fire drill when trying to fill them without making a mess. On later boats there is a 30-gallon water tank under each main cabin settee, and the system is correctly plumbed.

There are proper seacocks on all fittings below the waterline.

The deck-stepped rigs in both the cutter and ketch are well engineered, as no owners in our survey report any deck deflection or stress cracking in that area.

Unlike a lot of 30-footers, the Cape Dory 30 was designed as a small seagoing boat. For example, it has a reasonable bridge deck, although it is lower than the main cockpit seats and the cockpit coamings.There is also a sea hood over the main companionway hatch.

The main companionway is an unusual design. The vertical part of the companionway is fairly narrow and straight sided—good features in terms of seaworthiness. The sliding hatch and its opening are wider, letting more light and air below.

Relatively few owners in our survey report gelcoat blistering. The only glasswork complaints were gelcoat crazing in an early model, and discoloration of the gelcoat in the hull liner, cabin overhead, and non-skid areas in the deck.

Compared to newer 30-footers, the Cape Dory 30 is cramped below. The boat is more than a foot narrower than the typical cruiser/racer built today, and about 2′ shorter on the waterline. There’s no way around it: this is a small boat.

Within these limitations, the interior layout is pretty good. There are V-berths forward, with a dropin insert to form a double. The forward berths are narrow at the foot.

Ventilation in the forward cabin is provided by two opening ports plus an overhead Bomar aluminum- framed hatch. There are drawers and lockers beneath the berths.

The head compartment utilizes the full width of the boat, the way it should on a boat this narrow. Outboard of the toilet is a hanging locker. Opposite the toilet there is a dresser with sink.

A grate in the head sole for a shower was standard equipment, but the pressure water necessary to use it was an option. If you’re going to spend more than a weekend on a boat, a shower is almost mandatory.

Inexplicably, the head sink and shower drain into the bilge. This is unacceptable. Because of the boat’s low freeboard, the head sink is too low to be plumbed directly overboard if you expect it to drain on port tack. The best solution, although it is somewhat awkward, would be to install a closed sump tank in the bilge. It could be emptied overboard by either a manual or an electric pump. You wouldn’t want your bathroom sink and shower to drain into your basement, would you?

Two opening ports plus a cowl vent in a Dorade box provide ventilation in the head. If it were our boat, we’d also install a small venting hatch or another Dorade box over the head, even though the standard arrangement is better than you find on many larger boats.

The main cabin has settees which double as berths along either side. There are narrow shelves above and outboard of each settee.

Since the water tanks take up most of the volume below the main cabin settees, there is little storage space available in the main cabin.

As in most boats this size, the main cabin table folds down from the forward main bulkhead. It will seat four, although in a somewhat cramped fashion.

In the original layout, the galley aft runs the full width of the boat. On the port side there is a pressurized, two-burner gimbaled alcohol stove with oven.

If you want to stay with alcohol cooking fuel, we recommend switching to a non-pressurized stove such as the Origo. Despite the fact that alcohol fires can be extinguished with water, pressurized alcohol stoves can be dangerous because most people underestimate the volatility of the fuel.

The sinks are aft of the stove, and are somewhat difficult to reach because the slope of the bilge intrudes into the space where you would normally stand.

Opposite the stove there is a good galley dresser containing an icebox, storage bin, and drawers. The icebox drains into the bilge. This is a poor arrangement, since organic matter from the icebox will inevitably contaminate the bilge, even if it is pumped daily. The icebox could either be pumped into the galley sink, or into the sump you install for the head sink and shower.

With this layout, you use the top of the icebox as a navigation table. The lack of a good place to do chart work is a common failing in older designs of this size.

Late in the production run, the interior layout was “modernized” by adding a quarterberth and small chart table. The arrangement takes up a lot of the space that was formerly used for the galley. You get another berth—which you don’t need—at the cook’s expense. We don’t think this layout is an improvement, despite the fact that the navigator gets his or her own workspace.

Headroom on centerline in the main cabin is just over 6′, with slightly less further forward.

Main cabin ventilation is good, with four opening ports—excellent bronze Spartan ports—and an overhead Bomar hatch. We’d add a pair of cowl vents in Dorade boxes on either side of the ventilation hatch. The space is there, and the job is pretty simple. Although the galley has reasonable storage, there is little storage space in the rest of the boat. This makes the boat unsuitable as a long-term cruising boat, unless you want to do a fair amount of modification to the interior.

Joinerwork and finishing detail throughout are of good production boat quality. Since a lot of teak is used for interior woodwork, the boat is quite dark below.

You could brighten this up a lot by finishing the interior with gloss varnish, rather than the standard satin oil finish.

Conclusions

With her narrow beam and short waterline, the Cape Dory 30 is a lot smaller than newer boats of this length and displacement. The boat will have a strong appeal to the traditionalist who places a high value on appearance.

The boats are well constructed, suited for serious coastal cruising, and perhaps for limited offshore sailing.

Cape Dory boats were quite expensive, but they hold their value well. When production began in 1976, the Cape Dory 30 had a base price of about $29,000. By the time production ceased a decade later, the price had almost doubled—but so had the price of just about everything.

Although some might prefer the “shippiness” of the ketch rig, the cutter is both faster and more practical. Some boats were built as sloops, and this would be the best rig of all. Inevitably, the Cape Dory 30 will be compared to the Alberg 30. The Cape Dory 30 is longer on the waterline, wider, heavier, and has a roomier interior. The Cape Dory 30 cutter is slightly faster than the sloop-rigged Alberg 30.

Our choice in a Cape Dory 30 would be a latemodel cutter with full-width galley, Edson pedestal, and the Volvo or Universal diesel. For the money, you get a well-designed traditional boat that is a good coastal cruiser for a couple or a small family. We don’t think the boat is big enough for four adults for anything more than weekend sailing.

If you want the looks of an older boat but the construction details and diesel engine found in newer boats, the Cape Dory 30 is a good choice.

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14 comments.

Some photos would be useful in an article like this. Remember a photo is worth how many words? Regards

Agree – at least one picture of the entire boat would’ve been appreciated

Good article. very informative

If you’re a sailor you’re proud to show your boat! Where are the photos of this boat???

Pictures would’ve been great

If readers are accessing this story on-line, a quick search for “Cape Dory 30 Mark II” produces 1.7 million images.

…so even less excuse for not putting a couple here… 🙂

Cape Dory apparently ventured into trying to have a little more modern design by producing around 75 or so boats with a fin keel and sloop rig – Intrepid 9m by Cape Dory. Ours was originally outfitted with the Volvo diesel but was at some point changed to a 27hp Yanmar 3 cylinder. Much of the Cape Dory 30 interior description sounds similar. It’s been a slow project for us with much to do.

This article was previously published in the 6th edition of Practical Boat Buying in 2003, and perhaps in earlier editions as well. Originally, the article included a sail plan and line drawing of the layout.

i have the Cape Dory 31. One foot difference makes a big difference in the layout. I love the boat.

I bought a 1978 Cape Dory 30 ketch a few years ago, my first big boat, in the hopes of coastal and some blue water cruising. I appreciate the comments made in the article, there are many good points made. A few comments/questions: -I agree with the discussion of backing the boat; I cannot claim to do it well, especially in crosswinds out of a slip. Nice to know I am not alone. -Not sure I understand why the ketch would be more tender than the cutter; its mainmast is a foot or two shorter with a resulting shorter lever-arm. -It should be mentioned that the ketch has a longer on-deck space than the cutter, making it possible to carry a small dinghy on deck; I’m not sure this would be possible with the cutter. -The ketch allows flexibility in sail handling: I can sail with furling genoa and mizzen with good balance, raising and trimming without leaving the cockpit. This is a real blessing for single handing, of which I do a fair amount. -I have installed a Schaefer furler for the genoa, replacing the much older poorly functioning furler that came with the boat. I can self tack the genoa using the jibboom that came with the boat, or raise a storm jib with the jibboom and self tack with a sail well back off the bowsprit. Again, nice for cruising, single handing, and heavy air. -It probably should be mentioned that the Cape Dorys have internal ballasted molded in keel. This may be an advantage in an older boat since one does not have to worry about aging keel bolts. The 4 foot draft, with long keel and attached rudder is an advantage in places like the Louisiana Gulf Coast with plenty of shallow, quite muddy water. Yes, unfortunately, I know this from experience. -Recent hurricanes have put a number of boats ashore. Friends from Texas have told me that one of their members’ Cape Dorys went ashore losing mast and rigging, but little damage to the hull. Anecdotal, but the hull is thick with good glasswork. -I agree with the assessment of the bronze steering gear that came with the boat. It seems bulletproof and simple. Any assessment as to whether it would work with an autopilot system? -thanks for the article.

How does this boat look like, no photos, Great article, not.

For those not entirely reading the fine article…

“ By Darrell Nicholson – June 14, 2000”

Solid review.

What the cape dory cutter rig really needs is a Bowsprit a rather long one at that. Put a 3-4 ft bow sprit on it move the head stay out to the end and the move the staysail stay to where the head stay was and you then have a far better sail plan and you would increase the displacement to sail area ratio to quite speedy levels. Also the main needs a boomvang. The mast without a bowsprit is still too far forward for an efficient cutter rig. (Ona cutter the mast should really be center of the sail plan. I can see looking at the standard sail plan why it would have excessive weather helm not enough head sail area to overcome the main and over all not enough sail area. Carl Alberg included a small bowsprit on the Cape dory 28 and looking at the design of the 30 most of the extra length was added aft. Of the keel. I would really like to see what a long bowsprit would do (would also help with anchoring as you could get the bow roller further out)

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