rolex yacht master yellow gold 42mm

Could The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Yellow Gold 226658 Be the Best of the Collection?

The luxurious high-end nautical spirit of the 42mm yacht-master shines through in solid yellow gold and sleek black matte touches..

Any Rolex fan worth his or her salt knows that the Submariner is the champion of the dive watch category , a lifelong companion for underwater adventures and your go-to model if you want to hint at a sporty, active lifestyle. However, what if you are looking for a Rolex that can handle more than a splash but hint at the luxury sailing yacht you’ve got docked in the marina? In this case, the Yacht-Master has got you covered, a tooled-down and dressed-up nautical sports watch that has finally detached itself from the sporty Submariner. Marking a first for the 42mm edition of the Yacht-Master, the latest reference introduced at Watches and Wonders 2022 now comes in a yellow gold case. Combined with the black Oysterflex bracelet and the sleek black ceramic insert on the bezel, the elegant Yacht-Master 42 reference 226658 is more in line with the high-end nautical spirit of the collection.

A “Class A” Yacht

Since Hans Wilsdorf introduced the Oyster in 1926, Rolex and waterproof watches have been synonymous. From the iconic Submariner  to professional deep-sea divers like the  Sea-Dweller , the sea and all things maritime are a natural habitat for Rolex’s robust tool watches. Rolex also enjoys a long-standing relationship with the world of sailing and has partnered with select yacht clubs around the world since the early 1950s. As the sponsor of prestigious regattas like the exciting Rolex Fastnet Race, the Crown even developed a watch, the Yacht-Master II, with a specific regatta countdown function for competitive sailors.

The introduction of the Yacht-Master in 1992 surprised and then failed to engage Rolex fans. It certainly looked like a Submariner, but it had been tooled down and dressed up in a solid gold case, characteristics that seemed at odds with the professional dive watch vocation of the Submariner. Although the similarities with the Submariner were evident, the water-resistance of the Yacht-Master was reduced from 300 to 100 metres and the luminous dot was removed from the bezel.

Without the useful regatta countdown function of the Yacht-Master II and its lower water-resistance, the Yacht-Master was positioned as a luxurious nautical watch – and the lifestyle associated with high-end nautical sports – designed to catch the eye of yacht owners, not deckhands or divers.

what’s in a name?

Obviously, the name chosen for the Yacht-Master wasn’t a random choice – nothing is random at Rolex – and clearly speaks to the potential profile of a yacht owner, not a deckhand.

Over the years the Yacht-Master has appeared in a mid-size 35mm men’s version and even a 29mm ladies’ model (1994). Today it exists in three sizes: 42, 40 and 37mm. However, it wasn’t until 1999 that the Yacht-Master really got the wind in its sails with a more contemporary monochrome colour scheme provided by a steel case and platinum Rolesium bezel (ref. 16622) and Oyster bracelet. Then in 2015, the Everose (ref.116655) introduced two major aesthetic updates: the bezel featuring a black ceramic insert and an unexpected black rubber Oysterflex strap introduced on board the Yacht-Master and now used on the Sky-Dweller and Cosmograph Daytona.

The contemporary black rubber strap and the matte ceramic insert were a winning move and clearly demarcated the Yacht-Master as a separate collection. Overnight, the 2015 Yacht-Master looked radically different from its full-metal counterparts, imparting a sleeker, more stylish and more modern vibe. In 2019, the standard 40mm case size for men was joined by a larger 42mm case in white gold , a diameter that differentiated it one step more from the 41mm Submariner Date. The handsome black-tie combination of white gold and matte black Yacht-Master worked well but we think that the latest mix of yellow gold and matte black details works even better.

The reason is simple: white gold can be confused with stainless steel and although the crisp contrast of the white and black is handsome, the yellow gold case broadcasts ‘luxury nautical watch’ with even more conviction.

Yellow gold case

Sharing the same specifications as the white gold model, the latest ref. 226658 differs in just one aspect: its solid 18k yellow gold case. Crafted from a solid block of 18k gold, the middle case is polished and the overall impression is one of elegance. Despite being the largest Yacht-Master, its tapered lugs and relatively slim height mean the watch sits broad and flat on the wrist and works well on smaller wrists (photographed here on Brice’s 16.5mm wrist).

The hallmark bidirectional rotating bezel has a matte black Cerachrom insert with raised and mirror-polished graduations and numerals. Cerachrom, a proprietary material developed and patented by Rolex, is a hard ceramic material that is virtually scratch-proof, corrosion-resistant and impervious to ultraviolet rays meaning it won’t fade over time. The ceramic is sandblasted to give it an attractive grainy texture and a more technical, contemporary finish.

The knurled yellow gold edge means the bezel has a good grip, and the hermetically screwed-down caseback with its fine fluting ensures that only Rolex watchmakers can access the movement. Like all Yacht-Masters, the case is endowed with a Triplock winding crown and the dial protected by a sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock to consult the date.

The black lacquered dial, which reinforces the slick aesthetics of this Rolex Yacht-Master 42, features applied yellow gold hour markers (triangular, round and rectangular) that are treated with Rolex’s own luminescent material known as Chromalight that emits a long-lasting blue glow in the dark. The hallmark Mercedes hour hand, the minute and the central seconds hand with its round counterweight are also crafted in gold with the same luminescent treatment as the hour markers.

Calibre 3235

First introduced in 2015 to replace the long-serving calibre 3135, calibre 3235 is now Rolex’s flagship date-function movement and is protected by no fewer than 14 patents. The most significant innovation is the new Chronergy escapement. Made from anti-magnetic nickel-phosphorous, about half of the robust 70-hour power reserve can be attributed to the newly designed escapement. A Parachrom hairspring fitted on Paraflex shock absorbers, also insensitive to magnetic fields and temperature variations, offers ten times more precision than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. Calibre 3235 was the first movement to receive Rolex’s own certification as a Superlative Chronometer with a tolerance of just -2/+2 seconds a day (more stringent than COSC).

ThE Great Oysterflex Bracelet

The matte black elastomer strap that has become a distinctive feature of the Yacht-Master replicates the robustness and reliability of a metal bracelet with its hidden infrastructure of flexible and curved metal blades. It is, in our opinion, one of the most comfortable straps on the market today. The Oysterlock folding clasp in 18k yellow gold is fitted with a Glidelock extension system allowing for adjustments of 15mm without tools.

Some identities take longer to forge than others and Rolex is not exactly known for overnight makeovers. After thirty years, the Yacht-Master has finally consolidated its identity and is practically impossible to confuse with a Submariner today. Without a doubt, the black bezel and Oysterflex models create a slicker, smoother and more sophisticated character than the opulent two-tone Oystersteel and Everose gold . And although many will be attracted to the understated black-tie appeal of the white gold ref. 226659, the more dynamic combination of yellow gold and black captures the luxurious nautical spirit of the Yacht-Master perfectly. While I doubt that Rolex is a slave to fashion trends, the rise of yellow gold is undeniable along with the return of the hedonistic fashion and style that ruled the 1980s and 1990s. However, combined with the sandblasted black matte ceramic and the rubber bracelet, the potential for bling is contained and this 226658 conveys a sexy, contemporary attitude.

Availability & Price

The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226658 in yellow gold retails for  EUR 26,700 . Availability is, as always with the brand, limited. More information at Rolex.com .

Technical specifications – Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Yellow Gold 226658

5 responses.

Thanks for the great in depth article. When it was first released in 2015 I loved it and if I had the funds back then would have bought it. There was a wait list of about 6-12 months which I put my name down and was offered one but still just couldn’t justify the expenditure. It’s still my favourite sports Rolex. I agree with you that if your spending that much the yellow or rose gold version is my preference and prefer 40mm size but to be fair haven’t tried on the 42mm. However It wouldn’t be my daily wear as it’s a bit bold but not as bling as other gold Rolexes due to the matt bezel and rubber strap. Now if only they released a steel version 🙂 but that would be more impossible to get on a wait list. Regards alternatives as all gold Yatchmasters are not obtainable from your AD. These are available and arguably much better made. First the Blancpain Bathyscape at 43mm a tad larger and thicker though. Then there is the superb Glashautte Original SeaQ. I have admired them for sometime but hesitated between the 39.5mm with the not great 40 hr power reserve and a solid back or the larger 43.2 mm which has an exhibition case back and 100 hour power reserve but quite thick. One day a preowned steel 39.5 mm SeaQ became available for a great savings. It took me 5 mins to pull the trigger. I currently own and have owned a lot of sports dive/skin watches and this is my favourite daily wear for som time now. The 39.5 x 12.15 thickness is perfect on my wrist and the finish is just superb. The power reserve is no big deal as it’s worn continuously. PS they have just released a 39.5 mm rose gold version with an exhibition case back. Glashutte also offer excellent strap options.

When I bought a Yacht-Master (40 mm, with a platinum white dial) around 2009, I was still trying out the Daytona and Submariner with a green bezel. Finally, the choice fell on a watch with platinum. Those were beautiful times!

I really like the look, but I can’t mentally justify the increased price over other rolex watches, like the 126622 at $12k. Over $14k more for a more expensive gold case, but cheaper rubber strap and ceramic bezel?

I think people should stop reviewing Rolex watches since these are available for public anymore.

My grandpa would like it.

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Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Ultimate Buying Guide

First released at Baselworld 2019, the Yacht-Master 42 is the newest and largest addition to the Rolex Yacht-Master lineup. Historically, the Yacht Master collection has been the only Rolex sports model available in multiple sizes; however, until the release of the Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659, 40mm was the largest case size available. Despite the fact that the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 introduced a new and larger 42mm case to the collection, at the time of writing, the model is only offered in a single configuration: a 42mm white gold case fitted with a black dial, black ceramic bezel, and matching black Oysterflex bracelet.

At first glance, the Rolex Yacht Master 42 reference 226659 appears very similar to the 40mm Everose gold model that is also fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet. Both watches feature black dials, matte black ceramic bezels with raised polished numerals, black Oysterflex bracelets, and Rolex’s in-house Caliber 3235 movement. However, while the core design of the Yacht-Master 42 is shared with the other Oysterflex Yacht-Master watches, the larger case paired with its toned-down monochromatic color profile makes it immediately distinct, and these small changes come together to make the Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 the perfect poster child for the modern Rolex brand.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Reference 226659

Yacht-Master 226659 Key Features:

– Reference Number: 226659

– Production Years: 2019 – Present

– Case Size: 42mm

– Materials: 18k White Gold

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds; Date Display

– Dial: Black w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Luminescence: Chromalight

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Black Ceramic Insert w/ 60-Minute Scale

– Crystal: Sapphire (Flat w/ Cyclops Lens)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 3235

– Water Resistance: 100 Meters / 330 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oysterflex Bracelet

– Clasp: Oysterlock Safety Clasp w/ Glidelock Extension System

– Approx. Price: $28,900 (Retail); $33,500 (Pre-Owned)

Click here for our Ultimate Buying Guide on the Rolex Yacht-Master.

The History of the Rolex Yacht Master 42

Compared to many of Rolex’s other lines of watches, the Yacht-Master is a fairly young collection, having only just joined the brand’s catalog in 1992. While Rolex originally built much of its reputation by producing tough-as-nails tool watches, the brand had already started to make its transition towards becoming an all-out luxury manufacturer by the 1980s, and the Yacht-Master was created as an unapologetically luxurious take on the brand’s classic sports watch.

The Rolex Yacht-Master largely follows the same overall design as the Submariner, but leans more towards the opulent and luxurious side of things, rather than being a purpose-built underwater timing tool. Both the Submariner and the Yacht-Master feature rotating timing bezels, but while the Submariner’s bezel rotates unidirectionally and features a luminous dot at the zero-marker, the Yacht-Master’s moves bi-directionally and omits the luminous dot in favor of an insert crafted from either solid gold, platinum, or black ceramic. Similarly, all Rolex Yacht-Master watches feature precious metals somewhere in their construction. Even the most humble models that are largely crafted from stainless steel feature solid platinum bezels, and while the bezel insert on the reference 226659 is built from black ceramic, the watch itself is crafted from solid 18k white gold.

Initially, the Rolex Yacht-Master was exclusively offered in solid yellow gold and with a 40mm case. However, over the years, the collection expanded to include other case sizes and materials including both two-tone and Rolesium (a combination of stainless steel and platinum) references. Both a 29mm Lady Yacht-Master and 35mm Midsize Yacht-Master were previously offered alongside the standard 40mm model, but these two smaller versions were ultimately discontinued in favor of the Midsize Yacht-Master 37.

With that in mind, Baselworld 2019 marked the arrival of both an all-new Yacht-Master size and a new material option for the collection. With the launch of the reference 226659, not only was the Rolex Yacht-Master now available with a 42mm case diameter for the first time in its history but it was also offered with a solid 18k white gold case – something that was previously not an option within the standard Yacht-Master collection. While the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 marked a major step forward for the collection, the new 42mm case size is exclusively available for the ref. 226659, and the watch is only available in one single configuration. Given that the Yacht-Master 42 has only been on the market for a couple of years, many collectors speculate that the solid 18k white gold ref. 226659 is just the first of many 42mm Rolex Yacht-Master watches.

Rolex Yacht Master 42 Defining Elements

For the most part, the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 is a larger, white gold version of the Everose Yacht-Master 40 that is also on an Oysterflex bracelet. However, the ref. 226659 does possess a number of unique traits that make it immediately identifiable and separate it from all other Rolex watches.

42mm White Gold Case

Probably the single most defining feature of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 is its 42mm case crafted from solid 18k white gold. Not only is this unique because the ref. 226659 is the only 42mm Yacht-Master model, but it also holds the distinction of being the only one that has ever been constructed from white gold. Over the course of the Yacht-Master’s history, it has been created in full 18k yellow gold, Yellow Rolesor (stainless steel and yellow gold), Rolesium (stainless steel and platinum), full 18k Everose gold, and Everose Rolesor (stainless steel and Everose gold). Additionally, there is even a version of the 44mm Yacht-Master II regatta timer that is built from white gold with a platinum bezel, but the reference 226659 is the only iteration of the classic Yacht-Master to be offered in full 18k white gold.

Black Cerachrom Bezel

Just like the 37mm and 40mm Everose gold Rolex Yacht-Master models that are also fitted with Oysterflex bracelets, the Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 receives a bidirectional timing bezel with an insert that is crafted from Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom ceramic material. The black ceramic insert is given a matte-sandblasted texture, with raised graduations that feature a high-polish finish for improved contrast. Despite having both a different case size and being made from different materials, the matte black ceramic insert on the Yacht-Master 42 instantly unites it with the rest of the Oysterflex bracelets Yacht-Master watches in Rolex’s portfolio.

Oysterflex Bracelet

The Rolex Oysterflex bracelet is quite possibly the most over-engineered rubber strap in the world – however, to call it a “rubber strap” is a bit misleading. Rolex specifically refers to it as a bracelet within its catalog because the elastomer strap features a flexible metal core for optimum durability and longevity. Additionally, the underside of the strap features a comfort pad that elevates the strap slightly off the wrist, better distributing the weight of the watch and promoting airflow and breathability.

One of the more interesting details about how Rolex has chosen to structure its catalog is that the Oysterflex bracelet (seemingly the most sporty and least formal option) is exclusively equipped to the brand’s solid gold models. Whether fitted to a Daytona, Sky-Dweller, or Yacht-Master watch, all of the Oysterflex-equipped models are crafted from solid 18k gold (either yellow, white, or Everose). At the time of writing, the Oysterflex bracelet is only found on the full 18k Everose gold Yachtmaster 40 and Yacht-Master 37 watches, along with the 18k white gold Yacht-Master 42.

Rolex Caliber 3235 Movement

Despite being 2mm larger than the current Yacht-Master 40, the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 is powered by the exact same Caliber 3235 movement. Designed and manufactured entirely in-house by Rolex, the Cal. 3235 represents the brand’s latest generation of date-displaying mechanical movements and can be found in a number of other date-displaying Rolex watches, including all-time classics like the Datejust and the Submariner.

The Caliber 3235 movement is based around Rolex’s new Chronergy escapement, which features a skeletonized structure for improved efficiency. When combined with Rolex’s proprietary blue Parachrom hairspring and a redesigned gear train and mainspring barrel, the Caliber 3235 offers users an increased power reserve of 70 hours, which represents a significant step up from the 48-hour reserve offered by its predecessor. Additionally, despite its improved efficiency, the Rolex Cal. 3235 movement adheres to the same incredibly stringent ‘Superlative Chronometer’ precision standards, which permit a maximum timekeeping deviation of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Price and Availability

The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 has only been around for a couple of years, so it is still in production and available for purchase from retailers and boutiques. However, as anyone who is familiar with Rolex watches will tell you, finding the model you want brand-new and available for immediate sale is virtually impossible and for many highly popular references, there is no way to buy a brand-new Rolex without spending a significant amount of time on a waiting list. As a result of this lack of availability on a retail level, many buyers turn to the secondary market, where they can add a Rolex Yachtmaster 42 ref. 226659 to their collections without the wait.

How Much is a Rolex Yacht-Master 42?

As of 2021, the retail price for a brand-new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 is $28,900, which represents a $1,600 premium compared to its 40mm Everose gold counterpart. However, due to the fact that the white gold Yacht-Master 42 cannot be purchased at a retail level without being on a waiting list, pre-owned prices exceed their brand-new values and you can expect to pay a premium of several thousand dollars if you wish to skip the line and add one to your collection today.

Where to Buy a Rolex Yacht-Master 42

Since the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 is still in production, you can technically still buy it brand-new from Rolex retailers and boutiques – just as long as you are willing to wait out the cue. A similar story exists for most of the popular modern Rolex models; however, compared to the steep premiums that many of the brand’s stainless steel sports watches trade hands for on the open market (which can frequently reach values in excess of 100% above their brand-new retail prices), the comparatively reasonable premium of a few thousand dollars to skip the line for a reference 226659 Yachtmaster 42 means that buyers often opt for a pre-owned example, where availability is immediate and guaranteed.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42: A Modern Luxury Sports Watch

Rolex may have originally built much of its legendary reputation by building tough and reliable sport and tool watches, but the brand’s days as a manufacturer of utilitarian timekeeping devices have long since passed. These days, Rolex is an all-out luxury brand and it is arguably the single most famous luxury label in the entire world. The thought of a military branch supplying its troops with Rolex Submariner watches has become almost comical given that countless people all around the globe are unable to buy a Submariner, despite being more than willing to pay full retail price for one. In fact, the Rolex Submariner is so in-demand that most people are willing to pay far more than the brand-new retail price, just to skip the multi-year waiting list and add one to their collections.

Despite Rolex’s transition towards becoming a luxury manufacturer, it has never stopped producing reliable and finely crafted sports watches. However, the nature of its sports watches has certainly evolved to take on a more luxury-oriented approach, just like the brand’s positioning within the greater watch market. Rolex was producing sports watches back in the 1950s and 1960s and although its products were always considered to be premium timepieces, they were hardly regarded as luxury items, let alone status symbols.

These days, Rolex sports watches are some of the most iconic and desirable luxury timepieces in existence, and wearing one has become a universally recognized symbol of success and personal accomplishment. As a result of the implicit connotations that they carry, modern Rolex sports watches need to do more than just be tough and reliable; they also need to offer a bit of flash and match the opulent and exclusive image of Rolex itself.

The Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 is the perfect poster-child for the modern Rolex brand. Its monochromatic color profile paired with its matte black ceramic bezel and black Oysterflex bracelet makes the watch inherently casual and sporty, and at first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking that this was a humble stainless steel model. However, at its core, the Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 is a $30k solid gold Rolex. Wearing a Rolex watch has become a universally recognized status symbol, but Rolex is not a brand known for making over-the-top, statement pieces. The white gold Yacht-Master 42 is the perfect statement piece for those that do not want to make a statement, and that is precisely why the reference 226659 is the perfect poster-child for the modern Rolex brand.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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Unveiled in Gold at Watches & Wonders 2022: The Rolex Yacht-Master 42

Premiered in 1992, the Yacht-Master then, as now, is Rolex’s vision of a nautical watch. The last addition was introduced in 2019 in a new 42mm white gold case. The fleet is now joined by a yellow gold execution.

The new version, like the original model, is distinguished by a bidirectional rotatable bezel fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in matte black ceramic. Its raised graduations and numerals are molded into the ceramic and then polished. The crucial first 15 minutes are graduated individually to allow time intervals to be read with great precision.

The dial benefits from an optimized Chromalight display. The hour markers and hands are filled or coated with a new luminescent material that guarantees a longer-lasting intense glow. In daylight, these elements also have a brighter white hue. The new version of the Yacht-Master 42 sets sail in a 42mm Oyster case that is water-resistant to 100 meters. Its middle part is crafted from a solid block of 18k yellow gold. 

Inside ticks the self-winding caliber 3235 that was introduced in 2015. It features all the noble elements, fans of the brand appreciate, such as the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability, and the highly shock resistant blue Parachrom hairspring. It goes without saying that the movement bears the Superlative Chronometer certification defined by Rolex in 2015 in addition to a C.O.S.C. chronometer certificate.

The new 18k yellow gold Yacht-Master 42 is fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet. Developed by Rolex, it is made up of flexible, curved metal blades over-molded with high-performance black elastomer, a material that is particularly resistant to environmental effects and very durable.

The Oysterflex bracelet comes with a Oysterlock folding safety clasp in 18k yellow gold and the Rolex Glidelock extension system that allows to adjust the length up to 15 mm without the use of any tools.

The new Yacht-Master 42 retails for $28,300.

To learn more, visit Rolex, here.

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Rolex Yacht Master 18K Yellow Gold / Rubber 42MM 2022

Description.

Rolex 226658 Yacht Master Oyster Perpetual Date, 18K yellow gold on a black rubber strap with 18K yellow gold clasp, automatic, date, sweep second hand, rotatable bezel, COSC, luminescent hands and hour indicators, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal, water resistant, size: 42mm, thickness: 11.2mm, scrambled series. Like new with Rolex box and papers from 2022.

Product price

FREE Global Fedex Priority shipping

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Yellow Gold

The European Watch Company Process

TRUST, SERVICE & QUALITY

Trusted since 1993, European Watch Company maintains the highest standards in the industry. Our team of expert watchmakers meticulously inspect every timepiece prior to it being listed for sale. This five-position testing assures the buyer of each watch’s verified provenance, its optimal mechanical condition with authenticated parts, and exceptional “like new” cosmetic appearance. When it comes to quality, we curate only the finest timepieces. So that when they are delivered, the only thing to focus on is your excitement. Our 5-star reputation was earned over three decades of hard work and integrity. To provide further peace of mind, we provide a 1- year limited warranty on all our timepieces. We are confident that we can find you the perfect watch to cherish and enjoy.

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All of Rolex’s New Watches From Watches & Wonders 2024

Rolex just announced their novelties at the world's largest watch show in geneva..

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Rolex just announced its novelties for 2024, and these releases are confirming our take on Watches & Wonders as a moment of iterative updates of classic watches. The 2024 collection is decidedly nothing like the wild puzzle pieces and emoticons we saw from The Crown last year. The exception here may be the Daytona, which is studded with diamonds and sports what one could call a “Pearl Panda” dial (and, of course, its reverse).  The much anticipated GMT-Master II Coke (known for its red and black bezel) didn’t happen this year, but instead we get a lovely gray and black bezel (as seen on last year’s two-tone GMT-Master II) with a pop of Rolex’s signature green for the GMT hand and the option of an Oyster or a Jubilee bracelet—very classy.

If anyone was complaining last year that Rolex had strayed too far into the circus of color–that The Crown was just having too much fun flitting about—then this year proves that Rolex was always going to return to its quiet place at the center of the horological galaxy. Will this return to normalcy make any of these watches easier to get at retail? We will assume a resounding “hell no” to be the obvious answer. For many, including some of our own staff, these more conservative models will be the ones to own over the long haul, because they’ll remain timeless, versatile, and rugged companions—which, looking back over the past 100 years, is exactly what a Rolex was always meant to be.

Ladies and gentlemen, friends and family, please welcome the Rolex 2024 lineup to the stage.

GMT-Master II in Steel on Gray and Black Ceramic Bezel

Two new Oystersteel versions of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II—one with an Oyster bracelet, the other with a Jubilee bracelet, both with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in gray and black ceramic—will delight travelers with a sentimental streak for the understated steel GMTs of last century. As well as an alternative time zone, the green 24-hour hand points to a location that carries emotional significance for the wearer, which we simply call home. (Whether, for die-hard fans, that’ll be the manufacture’s HQ in the Acacias district of the city in which the piece has been unveiled remains to be seen!)

The same green hue is used for the GMT-Master II inscription upon the black lacquer dial, offering a second subtle flash of color on arguably the most elegantly muted iterations yet of a navigation tool watch first unveiled in 1982. But that’s not just any green; it’s Rolex green, so you’re assured a splash of quiety luxury every time you check the time—at home or wherever you may roam.

Case Size: 40 mm Movement: Calibre 3285 Power Reserve: 70 Hours Price: $10,900 on Jubilee, $10,700 on Oyster

Rolex Deepsea in Yellow Gold and Cerachrom Bezel

It’s the first ever Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea to be presented in 18-karat yellow gold. It’s also the first time the Deepsea has worn a Cerachrom bezel, and this is the first time that Rolex has separated the Deepsea from the Sea-Dweller lineup. That’s a lot of firsts.

That gold’s striking juxtaposition to the rich blue of the lacquer dial and ceramic bezel is not being lost on the crowds mingling in the Geneva Palexpo convention center at the time of writing. But serious dive watch geeks right now are busy marveling at a new technical masterstroke: the compression ring within the Ringlock system in this new piece—the part of the watch’s architecture that equips it to withstand depths of up to 3,900 meters—is now crafted from ceramic.

Technical diving innovation is an ongoing mission for Rolex, and the Deepsea has always been renown for its compression resistance. The Crown isn’t quoting any new depth figures, however—which is fine, because the 3,900 meters on offer since the Deepsea’s launch in 2008 imposes roughly 65 times the pressure the human body can endure. Ceramic also offers anti-deformation properties, though, and there’s no doubt that this piece’s waterproofness will be more robust than previous models, to be tested only should you drop it overboard in the middle of the ocean.

Tool watches being fit for purpose whatever they’ll end up (not) being used for is one of the industry’s core underlying tenets: and, as well as offering a strikingly aquatic vibe, the deep blue dial admirably complements legibility features such as the Chromalight display, the contrasting shapes of the hour markers, and differentiated hands which, like the triangular ‘zero’ marker on the bezel, are also filled with Chromalite, Rolex’s proprietary luminescent material.

Case Size: 44 mm Case Material: yellow gold Movement: Calibre 3235 Power Reserve: 70 Hours Movement: caliber 3235 auto-winding mechanical with date Price:  $52,100

Cosmograph Daytona With Diamond Bezel and Mother-of-Pearl Dials

Can a reinterpretation of a classic be simultaneously faithful and bold? Yes. Beyoncé’s take on The Beatles’ Blackbird proved it when new album Cowboy Carter hit streaming platforms two weeks ago, and Rolex are proving it today with these two new iterations of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona.

Both are in 18-karat white gold; both have mother-of-pearl dials whose boundaries are graced with eight diamonds and three Chromalight hour markers; both are graced with a bezel set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds. The differences? The one whose dial is white with dark chronograph counters comes with an Oysterflex bracelet; the inverted version of that color scheme comes with Oyster bracelet. Notably, this is the first time we’ve seen a mixing of mother-of-pearl colors from Rolex, and we’re already calling these the the “Pearl Pandas.”

This is not the first iteration of a piece originally created for hardcore racing drivers, back in 1963, to forego the useful tachymetric scale for jewels, but we’ve never heard anyone complain about that. It’s arguably the most eye-catching bejeweled Daytona to date, however.

Case Size: 40 mm  Movement: Calibre 4131 Power Reserve: 72 Hours Movement:  caliber 4131 auto-winding chronograph Price:  Oysterflex $61,400, Oyster bracelet $70,100

Day-Date 40 & 36 in Precious Metals

Nearly seven decades after the Day-Date became the first wristwatch to display the day of the week spelt out in full, Rolex has used new iterations of the model to demonstrate its dedication to incredmentally nudging small details toward perfection.

One new Day-Date 40 in 18-karat Everose gold introduces, for the first time, a slate ombré dial around whose deep black edge are found faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers in 18-karat pink gold. (Some fans may remember this one from the ad during The Oscars.) Another, in 18-karat white gold, features a dial whose white mother-of-pearl surface calls to mind overlapping clouds: an effect which interacts seductively with the ten baguette-cut diamonds set onto the dial as hour markers.

In a new variant of the Day-Date 36, in 18-karat yellow gold, we see the deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers previously reserved for the piece’s larger sibling set around a white lacquer dial; in another, in 18-karat Everose gold, the blue-green dial hue introduced on the Sky-Dweller last year has been adorned with ten baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers.

President bracelets—a moniker coined when Lyndon B Johnson wore a yellow-gold Day-Date in 1965—are a given for all of these sophisticated iterations.

Case Size: 40 mm/36 mm  Movement: Calibre 3225 Power Reserve: 70 Hours Price: Day-Date 40 Ombré dial $41,500, Mother of Pearl $47,050, Day-Date 36 White Roman dial $35,000, Blue with trapeze cut diamonds $80,000

Sky-Dweller in Rose and Yellow Gold

Arriving two whole decades after the last entirely new model Rolex added to its repertoire (the Yacht-Master), the Sky-Dweller, when it was unveiled to the world in 2012, was interpreted as being The Crown’s contribution to the gargantuan watch trend then riding the crest of the zeitgeist.

Subtle mutations since then have demonstrated far longer-term aims for the line: the latest example being these two new 18-karat gold versions—in 18-karat Everose gold with a slate dial, and 18 ct yellow gold with white dial—each, for the first time, sporting a Jubilee bracelet.

Displaying the time in two time zones simultaneously (local time with conventional center hands, reference time in 24-hour format on an off-center disc) as well as offering an annual calendar (‘Saros’) which automatically differentiates between 30- and 31-day months, Rolex’s most complicated wristwatch also features a Ring Command system using the bezel that allows the wearer to select functions with ease.

Case Size: 42 mm Movement: Calibre 9002 Power Reserve: 72 Hours Movement: caliber 9002 auto-winding annual calendar with second time zone Price: Everose $52,900, Yellowgold $49,000

1908 in Platinum with Ice Blue Dial

Rolex are calling this update on a piece launched only last year a “visual masterpiece”—and calling them out for hyperbole here would be churlish. Crafted in 950 platinum (which essentially refers to 95 percent purity), the new version’s ice blue dial, with its rice-grain guilloché texture, combines to stunning effect with the otherwise smooth minute track’s crimped pattern filet sauté—not to mention the piece’s brown alligator leather strap.

Named as a doff of the cap to the year Hans Wilsdorf registered what remains the only genuine household name in fine watchmaking, the piece packs other details that fall into the “ultra-subtle, but impossible to ignore once you know they’re there” category: not least the chamfering on the top edges of the middle case lugs and a bezel whose smooth, domed effect gives way to fluting lower down.

It’is great to see The Crown leaning into the 1908 series, as the previous Cellini models that this replaces somehow lacked that  je ne sais quoi that this watch appears to have heaps of. Also, this is Rolex’s slimmest watch, just as a dress watch should be.

Case Size: 39 mm Case material: Platinum Movement: Calibre 7140 Power Reserve: 66 Hours Price: $30,900

Allen Farmelo

Allen is Robb Report's digital watch editor. His writing and photography have appeared in Fortune, Hodinkee, WatchTime, International Watch and many others. When he's not obsessing over vintage…

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Chronofinder predictions: New Rolex models at Watches and Wonders 2024

F or watch enthusiasts, the most anticipated moment of the year is just a few weeks away. W atches & Wonders is when the most prominent luxury watch brands worldwide, such as Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet unveil their latest creations and announce discontinuation.

Among these brands, Rolex consistently commands attention, stirring anticipation in the luxury watch community with its annual releases.

This year, our team at ChronoFinder , a London-based retailer specialising in second-hand luxury watches, has crafted our own concept pieces, speculating on the new Rolex models for 2024.

New Rolex models: The GMT

Since 2018, Rolex has placed significant emphasis on its GMT models, introducing iconic variations known as the ‘Pepsi’, ‘Root Beer’, ‘Batgirl’, and ‘Sprite’. While diversifying the focus across different models would be welcomed, it’s likely Rolex will continue to explore GMT iterations this year.

Rolex is known for its discretion, making predictions challenging. However, recent reports indicate a potential shift hinted by a patent filing for black and red ceramic bezels, possibly signalling a departure from the iconic ‘Pepsi’ design due to production challenges. An iteration featuring a ‘Coke’ bezel reminiscent of older pre-ceramic GMT models could emerge, offering collectors a fresh interpretation of a beloved classic.

These production challenges could also see the discontinuation of the white-gold ‘Pepsi’ GMT. This is the only sports watch left with the spectacular meteorite dial. Each dial is piece unique, made from a solid slice of the Gibeon meteorite, meaning it is quite literally out of this world. Although supply is incredibly scarce due to mining restrictions on the Gibeon meteorite introduced in 2004, we would love to see it introduced on the rose gold ‘Root Beer’ as it is the favourite of our concepts.

Another possibility is a rerelease of the black steel GMT with an updated two-tone bezel on a Jubilee bracelet. Collectors were frustrated after Rolex reintroduced the ‘Batman’ GMT model on an Oyster bracelet in 2021, after previously discontinuing it in 2018. So whilst this addition could diversify the GMT lineup, we hope Rolex instead shifts their focus towards other models.

Steel & rose gold models

At this year’s Watches & Wonders, we would love to see Rolex introduce steel and rose gold options for their Submariner and Sky-Dweller ranges. We imagine the Sky-Dweller would have the same dial options as the full rose gold version. The Submariner could potentially be introduced alongside a full rose gold model, which is something we’d love to see. When the stainless steel ‘Hulk’ was introduced in 2010, it became one of Rolex’s most popular watches, so its introduction in rose gold would take the watch world by storm.

Olive dial rose gold models

First introduced in 2016, the 60th anniversary olive dial Day-Date has been rumoured to be discontinued in recent years. However, this is an incredibly popular colour, so we wouldn’t want to see it be discontinued completely. Rather, we would like to see it introduced with baguette diamond hour markers, offering a luxury twist on the popular model.

We also would love to see the introduction of the olive dial on the rose gold Sky-Dweller. Precious metal Sky-Dwellers have such a high retail price meaning they are often overlooked. However, anybody who has held a Sky-Dweller will understand the level of craftsmanship, engineering, and precision that has gone into making it Rolex’s most complicated timepiece. If this were to be released, we’d expect it to be available on a full bracelet as well as the Oysterflex, giving the Sky-Dweller range a huge boost.

Full rose gold Yachtmaster

This is a model we’ve been hoping to see for a long time. Recent Yachtmaster releases have seen a larger 42mm case size on the white and yellow gold Oysterflex. Last year also saw the groundbreaking release of the full titanium model. Currently selling for over three times its retail price on the second hand market, this incredibly rare timepiece is something that even as a watch trader, I am yet to have the pleasure of seeing in person. The introduction of a full rose gold Yachtmaster would be incredibly popular and also more attainable for collectors than its titanium counterpart.

Ultimately, even for us who are in the industry – it is incredibly difficult, near impossible to predict what Rolex will do next. There is often no rhyme or reason behind what is released, or discontinued and when. None of the watches that you have seen in this article currently exist – although there is no good reason why they should not. At ChronoFinder , we are true luxury watch enthusiasts. It is our passion and our business. We will be waiting in anticipation of this year’s Watches & Wonders, and hope that some of our concepts might come to life.

Moscow, Russia skyline: the 50 most iconic buildings and best views in Moscow

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46 Grand Kremlin Palace

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Safmar Aurora Luxe Contact Information

Kiev railway station

Railway station phone:

8 (800) 775-00-00 is the unified telephone directory service

Transfer services available - contact the hotel.

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Staying on course

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 in 18 ct white gold with a black dial and an Oysterflex bracelet.

The oysterflex bracelet, highly resistant and durable.

The Yacht-Master’s new Oysterflex bracelet, developed by Rolex and patented, offers a sporty alternative to metal bracelets. The bracelet attaches to the watch case and the Oysterlock safety clasp by a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade.

The blade is overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer which is particularly resistant to environmental effects, very durable and perfectly inert for the wearer of the watch. For enhanced comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushion system that stabilizes the watch on the wrist and fitted with an 18 ct white gold Oysterlock safety clasp. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed by the brand and patented. This inventive toothed mechanism, integrated beneath the clasp, allows fine adjustment of the bracelet length by some 15 mm in increments of approximately 2.5 mm, without the use of tools.

18 ct white gold

Commitment to excellence

By operating its own exclusive foundry, Rolex has the unrivalled ability to cast the highest quality 18 ct gold alloys. According to the proportion of silver, copper, platinum or palladium added, different types of 18 ct gold are obtained: yellow, pink or white.

They are made with only the purest metals and meticulously inspected in an in-house laboratory with state-of-the-art equipment, before the gold is formed and shaped with the same painstaking attention to quality. Rolex's commitment to excellence begins at the source.

Bidirectional Rotatable Bezel

Timing the distance.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background.

This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

Exceptional legibility

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master 42 offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and especially in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display.

The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

More Yacht-Master technical details

Reference   226659

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Oyster, 42 mm, white gold

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with matt black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, polished raised numerals and graduations

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3235, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Flexible metal blades overmoulded with high-performance elastomer

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Yacht-Master 42

Contact an Official Rolex Retailer

Only official Rolex retailers are allowed to sell and maintain a Rolex watch. With the necessary skills, technical know-how and special equipment, they guarantee the authenticity of each and every part of your Rolex and help you make the choice that will last a lifetime.

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