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Pushpit Seats: Comfort in the Cockpit

Posted by Bill Dimmit | Projects

Common on many newer stock boats, pushpit or stern pulpit seating is a great addition to any good old boat as well. The pushpit is the stainless steel framework aft of the cockpit. It’s an important safety feature on any cruiser and, therefore, generally well constructed. This makes it a perfect location for the addition of seating areas that are not only great sailing thrones, but also provide out-of-the-action perches for non-sailors as well.

This is a reasonably simple project. Materials are readily available and fabrication is easily accomplished using tools found in most household workshops. These instructions will loosely guide you toward results similar to what you see in the photos, but every boat is as different as its owners’ personal tastes.

It is essential that your pushpit frame have a center horizontal rail. You really can’t consider the project without it. It supports the seats and gives you something to fasten them to. You’ll need some stiff corrugated cardboard for patterns. The sides of a cereal or tissue carton will do. Most frames will have one or two vertical supports near the bends in the corners. In our situation, these supports neatly defined the location of the seats. Your frame may be different. Lay the cardboard on the corner of the center rail. Doing so may require you to notch around a support or two. This is a trial-and-error challenge and may take a bit of time. Also make sure the pattern covers the entire area being considered for the seat. Then simply trace the outside contour of the rail onto the pattern. Also mark where you want the seats to end up on the frame. Don’t make the mistake of assuming that both sides of the frame are the same. Port and starboard seldom mirror each other, and you will need to make a pattern for each.

With the outline of your frame in hand, lay out the seats. Keep in mind that what you are doing will have some impact on the appearance of your boat. Your seats should be well proportioned in respect to the rest of the cockpit. Older cruiser/racers often have narrow transoms, so keep the seats fairly small – just enough to give support, with enough room left over for a beverage holder, if you want one. Another tip: there are very few truly straight lines on a boat. Use smooth flowing curves when laying out the inboard edge. Your final design should be pleasing to the eye and look like it belongs on the boat. Set both patterns on the frame to satisfy your eye before plugging in the saw. Then label them port/top and starboard/top.

We used 3/4 inch polyethylene stock for our seats because it was readily available. This may not be the case in your area. A better choice would be Starboard, a material made specifically for marine environments. Starboard comes in several sizes and colors. It can be ordered from most mail-order distributors. (I got mine from Elastomer Engineering Inc., 801 Steuben St., Sioux City, IA 51102. Phone: 712-252-1067.) Be sure to use material thick enough to give good support. I recommend 3/4 inch.

Transfer the patterns onto the material and simply cut them out with whatever you have on hand. A band saw is best, but a handheld sabre saw will do nearly as well. Take your time and try to cut right to the outside edge of the line. The holes for the beverage holders are best made with an adjustable circle-cutting bit mounted in a drill press, but the sabre saw will work here as well. Whatever tools you use, you are going to end up with edges that need some additional work.

Sand or file them smooth and fair. After they match the pattern and look good to the eye, you can contour them for comfort. This is easily done with a router, and if you don’t have one, a friend probably will. All that is necessary is to round over the top. But we chose to bullnose ours. The router should leave you with a nearly finished edge. Use a Scotch-brite pad to do any final smoothing.

With the seats shaped and edges smoothed, it’s time to mount them on the frame. Ours are held in place with custom clamps made from the same material as the seats. But making similar clamps would be difficult without a drill press. Stainless steel straps are an easier and better choice. Whatever you use, they should be through-bolted like hardware subject to stress. Countersink the heads and plug the holes just as you would if doing traditional woodwork. The beverage holders are held in place with marine-grade silicone.

Unless your seats are very small, they will probably require additional support. Our Ericson 32 has a split cockpit with an athwartships bench behind the helm. This made it easy to extend struts down to the original seat level. Most conventional cockpit arrangements should work. The struts are short sections of stainless or aluminum tubing with the same kinds of ends and mounting brackets used in Bimini frames. These items can be found in any boating area and also ordered from marine catalogs. Position the struts for good support. Ours run from near the center of the inboard edge, down to the back of the original cockpit seat. This retains some useful space on the bench below.

Our seats have endured two Midwest sailing seasons and we immediately found them to be one of the best improvements we’ve made on our good old boat.

Article from Good Old Boat magazine, November/December 1999.

About The Author

Bill Dimmit

Bill Dimmit, shown with grandson, Isaiah, and the new pushpit seats, has had a lifetime fascination with sailing, primarily sailing dinghies until a charter in the Virgin Islands convinced him and wife, Laurie, of the pleasures of the cruising life. They now sail a 1974 Ericson on Lewis and Clark Lake near Yankton, S.D.

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

Add More Cockpit Seating With DIY Stern Perch Seats

Small sailboats don’t offer a lot of seating options in the cockpit. Four adults are about the maximum that will leave room for the skipper to work the helm. For casual cruising, that means everyone is in the cockpit, not hiking out on the coamings or side decks. Most sailboats will accommodate six in the cockpit while moored with the tiller out of the way but that can be crowded. You can give your guests more room or yourself more seating options with seats mounted on the stern pushpit.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

Stern perch seats make sitting on the pushpit railing more comfortable. Back when I used to do all my docking maneuvers with the outboard tiller, I often sat on the railing for better forward visibility and for room to steer the outboard. Now I leave the outboard motor locked in the centered position and steer with the rudder exclusively. But I still like to sit on the pushpit occasionally for a change of view or to see over the bimini.

You can spend hundreds of dollars for factory-built seats like those from Zarcor shown below or you can make your own with simple tools and materials and a little imagination. You can make them out of any material that you want, for example, Starboard by King Plastics or teak plywood—in my case, recycled old crib boards.

Custom Stern Perch Seats Step-by-Step

To make your own custom stern perch seats:

• Use cardboard to make a template that fits the shape of the corners of your pushpit. Overlap the railing enough for three clamps underneath the seat. The shape and size of the seat should be comfortable but compact. Avoid shapes that get in the way of the main sheet when on a reach, bimini attachments, or the lazarette lids. Make the size easy to stow when you’re not using the seats.
• Transfer the shape to your seat material and cut out the seat with a jigsaw or bandsaw.
• Smooth the edges until the curves are fair.
• Round over the edges with a router and/or sandpaper.
• If you are using wood for the seat material, apply your favorite finish. Mine is teak oil and a clear varnish to let the beauty of the wood shine through.
• Temporarily attach three pole clips to your pushpit similar to the picture below. You want the clips to form a triangle to support the weight of a person sitting on the seat without the seat folding down.
• Position the seat board on the clips and mark the locations of the mounting holes on the bottom of the seat.
• Remove the seat and drill pilot holes for the mounting screws. Remember to not drill all the way through the seat!
• Remove the clips from the railing and screw them to the seat with stainless steel pan head sheet metal screws that are shorter than the seat board is thick.
• Snap the seat onto the pushpit whenever you want to sit high and dry. Unsnap it whenever you want to stow it or so that it doesn’t become a perch for messy birds.

Attachment and Other Options

I used three  1″ Sea-Dog Line Pole Storage Clips  for each seat to make them easy to remove.

If you would prefer a more permanent mounting, use something like these  Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Stainless Steel Cushion Clamps .

Most small sailboat pushpits are made with a single rail so a stern perch seat works more like a stool than a chair. Larger sailboats have taller pushpits with two rails, which makes a more comfortable seat. The seat attaches to the lower rail (possibly with a center support leg) and the upper rail serves as a backrest, especially if it’s cushioned.

Depending on how you attach your seats to the pushpit (permanent vs. removable), you might be able to make your seats more comfortable by shaping them more like an ellipse. I found that an elliptical shape didn’t work well with the rubber pole clips that I used. Weight on the front of the seat board unsnapped the middle clip at the rear of the seat. That’s why I made them shaped like a fat boomerang. They’re not as comfy as on a bigger boat but they’re not bad. Permanent clamps can hold more weight on the front edge of the seat.If you want to start with my design to make your own, there is

If you want to base your design off mine, there is a free, dimensioned drawing on the Downloads  page that’s available to subscribers.

Experiment with different shapes to find what works best for you. Make prototypes out of wood scraps. Also, consider making your seats multi-purpose with built-in cup holders, fishing rod holders, a flag staff, or as a grilling prep table.

Would you like to be notified when I publish more posts like this? Enter your email address below to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. You will also receive occasional newsletters with exclusive info and deals only for followers and the password to the Downloads page. It’s free and you can unsubscribe at any time but almost nobody does!

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5 thoughts on “ add more cockpit seating with diy stern perch seats ”.

Stingy Sailor:

At last…An article that addresses a topic that actually interests me!

Seriously, I was beginning to consider unsubscribing.

Jim Roberts

Whoa, we can’t have that! I’m always open to what folks are most interested in. Use the Contact page to send me your suggestions. You’re opinion counts!

I was having trouble finding the starboard or teak locally, and the quantities online were more than we needed (and expensive). Solution? I went to Walmart and bought a large cutting board! Cut it according to plan, and it worked perfectly. Additional advantage, it’s made to get wet. Total cost of stern perch seat: $35 🙂

Great article. Love your site. 2 Questions regarding a Catalina 22:

Have you ever seen a good design of a DIY Stern rail?

Have you ever seen a good design of a solar panel mounted on the stern rail?

I have not seen an entirely DIY stern rail before but I have seen a few modified ones. If you have something unique in mind and access to the right tools or a good stainless steel fabricator, it shouldn’t be too hard.

I’ve seen two basic designs for stern rail mounted solar panels. The first is simple clamps like shown in the pictures in Installing a Solar Panel by the Numbers . The other design is basically two triangular brackets that raise the panel a little and move it aft outside the stern rail, which is a little more convenient.

If I were going to add a solar panel, I wouldn’t put it on the stern rail, though, because it would be constantly in the way of operating the outboard, the rudder/tiller, the backstay adjuster, fishing poles, swim ladder, and so on. I would probably get a flexible, roll-up panel that I could keep below while under sail and unroll on the cabin roof or foredeck while at anchor or docked. But honestly, I truly prefer recharging with the outboard motor like I describe in Upgrade Your Outboard Motor to Charge Your Battery . I don’t even have to think about my battery, it’s just always fully charged and ready to go with no extra gear in the way.

Hope that helps, $tingy

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STERNPERCH SAILBOAT SEATS

Adds seating to older sailboats.

Stern Perch seats make older sailboats like new

One of the biggest complaints among owners of pre-1993 sailboats is the absence of the popular stern rail seats. Now you can add them to many of the older model boats! They're custom designed for a perfect fit, yet easily removed if you need them off.

Made from 1/2" marine-grade polymer, our stern rail seats are easy to install (no tools are required). When installed, the seat attaches to the lower stern rail and lies inboard of it. (An upper and lower stern rail configuration is required.) The seats are supported from the stern pulpit as well as a leg which rests on the deck, coaming, or cockpit of the boat (location varies depending on boat design). The entire seat is designed to tilt up for access to hatches or other deck fittings if necessary. Recommended weight limit is 250 lbs. per seat.

We've sold a great number of the seats and owners have been quite happy with them. Each set includes built-in drink holders, too!

Consider Rail Cushions and or Lifeline Cushions for added comfort;on your back when leaning against the stern rail.

Sternperch Sailboat Seats

For a list of boats we have patterns for click here .

To See some pictures click here

If we do not have your boat listed, here is how to make a pattern.  Pattern Making Instructions

WE ALSO OFFER Rail Cushions and  Seat Pads both sold separately.

Stern Rail Seats

"The finest improvement to my boat, for the least amount of money. I recommend Stern Perch seats to everybody." - Judy Farrington, Newport, RI 1990 Hunter 30

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How to Make Your Own Stern Pulpit Rail Seat

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Build Your Own Stern Rail Seat From Starboard

Stern rail seats have become so popular over the last decade or so that most new sailboats large enough to support a stern pulpit now have them built in. Rail seats are perfect for a crew or guest who wants a clearer view ahead than you can get from the cockpit benches or for someone who simply wants to keep out of the way of winches, sheets and lines, and the crews' sailing or racing activities. Plus it's just plain fun to sit high up on the stern.

Several companies make stock or custom-sized rail seats that can be retrofitted to older boats. You can expect to pay $200 or more for a commercial seat, or you can build your own for a fraction of that. It's probably easier than you think.

Starboard is the best material for crafting your own seat. Starboard is a plastic with many marine uses, available in planks or sheets of different sizes and colors. The half-inch size, used in the seat shown here, is plenty strong for a rail seat. Starboard is strong and waterproof and will last practically forever. You can saw, drill, and sand it just like wood. The only disadvantage is that it cannot be glued, which doesn't matter for this project. Starboard can be ordered online and from the big marine chandleries.

The most important step in this project is the first: designing the size and shape of the seat itself to fit on your boat's railing. You could go with a straightforward boxy design that fits the space, or you can go for a more artistic or finished look that simulates the commercial seats. Be sure to consider where the sitting person's feet will go, and arrange the seat's position so that the sitter can lean against the upper rail. For the design of the seat shown in this photo, I simply walked around the docks looking at different seats until I found one I liked and that would fit my rail well. I asked the boat owner for permission to trace the seat, which he freely granted, admitting what he'd paid for the seat (about five times what the materials for my own cost). I liked the shape of this seat in part because of the space for the built-in cup holder, always a handy thing near the cockpit.

I then transferred the pattern to a sheet of starboard, cut out the shape with a jigsaw, and rounded and smoothed the edges with a belt sander. Then it was time to mount it.

Mounting the Stern Rail Seat

Typically a stern rail seat needs three points of attachment to be stable and feel solid. If the corner bend in the rail is close enough to 90 degrees, it may work to attach the seat on the rail only, but with a wider angle, as on the boat shown here, a leg is likely needed along with two or more rail mounts.

As you can see in this photo, the mounting hardware is very simple, and you can fashion your own design or use fittings like those shown here. For a little more money you can use stainless steel to match your rails, but these under-seat fixtures are seldom seen anyway, so there's nothing wrong with galvanized steel for the leg (hardware plumbing department) and nylon rail clamps. Cup holders are cheap; simply cut out the right size hole and fit it in, held in place with an epoxy intended for plastics.

The entire construction and installation process takes only about an hour, and your new stern seat will likely become one of the most often used parts of your boat.

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• Comparing AIS Boating Apps: Ship Finder, Marine Traffic, Boat Beacon

Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Cheap and easy pushpit seat

• Ben Meakins
• February 15, 2010

Consider canvas...

A cheap way to make a seat for your pushpit is to cut a piece of canvas or acrylic to the correct corner shape, install eyes in the corners and lash it tight to the pushpit. You can also use a piece of plywood if you prefer a more solid seat.

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Comfortable Sailboat Cockpit Seating

Man is the measure of all things, wrote pythagoras, and that is nowhere more true than in the cockpit of a sailboat. heres a look at what makes a seat comfortable, and how a variety of production boats measure up..

The proportions of the human body are the basis of all design. Cockpit seating, as with any seat or chair design, is one of the most complicated problems facing the designer. Niels Diffrient, an industrial designer and one of the worlds leading authorities on aircraft seating, says that, Chair design is the acid test for designers.

If youre a typical sailor, it has been estimated that you spend most of your valuable and limited time on the water in the cockpit.

Cockpit seating and layouts on sailboats need not only accommodate a wide range of body types, but also conflicting task requirements including steering, sail trimming, navigating, sitting while eating, lounging while socializing or reading and perhaps sleeping both at anchor and heeled 20 to 30.

The amount of clothing worn also can have a considerable impact on seat function and comfort. Non-skid can be quite uncomfortable while wearing bathing suits or other thin clothing. Likewise, in cold conditions multiple bulky layers of clothing can substantially change your bodys proportions, requiring different seat dimensions. Seats may also have to function with and without cockpit cushions, which will additionally alter their dimensions and comfort.

Aesthetic considerations must be considered, too. Unfortunately, this often means that coaming/seatback heights are lower than ideal. Given the many variables, tasks and body types to take into consideration, one begins to understand the true complexity of this design problem.

Assessing a comfortable seat is a more complex problem than it may seem. Rarely is a seat that seems comfortable initially, ideal in its support for long-term comfort. Its no accident that the best of todays firm and contoured office chairs, including those from Herman Miller and the late Sunar Hauserman that are designed for eight hours of continuous use, have very little in common with the often poorly designed soft couches and chairs commonly found in the home.

Because sailboats are constantly in motion, round corners are the first step toward a well-designed cockpit. Round corners are easier on the body, inherently stronger and are more durable over time.

All vessels work or flex in a seaway to a certain extent. These stresses become concentrated in sharp corners into what is known as the hinge effect. Although it is rare, if a vessel sees enough stress cycles, sharp corners can weaken and potentially fail. Round corners are also easier than sharp corners to build in fiberglass. So why are sharp corners seen so often? Usually its a matter of the designer wanting a crisp look or style; its also somewhat easier to produce tooling with sharp corners although the gain is more than offset by the difficulty later of laying-up the fiberglass cloth into these corners on the mold without creating voids.

Cockpit seats should be 6′ 2″ to 6′ 6″ long to allow three people to sit side by side, or one person to sleep in relative comfort.

The cockpit seat faces (or footwell area) should not be much more than about 28″ to 30″ apart or you may not be able to brace your feet when heeled. The minimum footwell width is 24″. Footwells less than 27″ wide, however, do not allow people to comfortably sit directly opposing each other. Cockpits with permanently mounted cockpit tables can be wider as the table structure provides foot bracing. The seating area forward of the table, adjacent to the companionway, is often a problem as neither the table nor the opposite seat provides a foot brace.

According to Niels Diffrient, seat lengths less than 13″ do not give adequate seat support under the thighs, the load on other tissues is consequently increased and the resulting discomfort is reflected in shorter sitting times. Seat lengths greater than 16″, however, do not accommodate the small person as the front edge of the seat comes in contact with the back of the leg, forcing him or her to sit toward the front or to slide forward away from the backrest support, resulting in poor posture. Diffrients research points out that if the seat comes too far forward it will put pressure on the bottom of your thigh at the point where there is a nerve that crosses under the thigh over a bundle of muscles. Pressure on this nerve over a period of time can cause your foot and leg to go to sleep. For long-term comfort there should be a gap of about 2″ between the seat edge and the back of your lower leg.

The front of a seat should be rounded with a minimum radii of 1″ to 2″ to further reduce tissue pressure. In a well-designed seat the sitter should not be aware of the front edge of the seat. The rounded seat edge is also easier on the feet when the leeward seat is used as a foot brace while going upwind.

A fixed seat height of 17″ accommodates the largest number of adults, while seats lower than 15″ are hard to get up from. Seat flat angles from about 1-1/2 to perhaps 8 would be appropriate for cockpit seating.

An angle of about 3 is desirable from the front edge of the seat down to foot level, as an assist in rising. This feature, unfortunately, is not seen very often in fiberglass boats as it requires a more complex and therefore costly two-part mold.

Correctly contoured seats and seatbacks (on which much study has been done, and an abundance of information is available) are the ideal in terms of long-term sitting comfort. Seat flats with as little as 1/2″ curve toward the rear of the seat can substantially increase long-term sitting comfort and security while still allowing the seat to be walked on and slept on.

A backrest that does not maintain the natural curvature of the hollow of the back (the lumbar region) may induce backaches. Backrests under 15″ high are too short for relaxation comfort. Backrest-to-seat angles of 95 to 120 are recommended.

Because cockpit seating is not as task specific as chair design, the above dimensions derived from Diffrients research are, we believe, somewhat on the small size.

Diffrients own research backs up our intuitions.

Anthropometry is the measure of humans. Anthropometric data is largely gathered by governments for military purposes and clothing sizing. This data has, we think, some rather surprising findings. We all are aware that the average persons height in the US is increasing, but you may not realize that people on the West Coast average an inch taller than people in the east! or that offspring of wealthy families are taller than average by more than an inch. This leaves designers in something of a quandry, trying to figure just who they are designing for. Certainly, tall people have a poorer selection when it comes to choosing a boat with adequate headroom, leg room and berth lengths.

We believe seats should be about 17″ or 18″ from the sole and about 17″ to 20″ wide. The wider seat dimension would accommodate backrest cushions and sleeping. If this data seems politically incorrect somehow, it must be kept in mind that by accommodating the average size adult as opposed to the average size sailor you are still comfortably fitting only 50% to 60% of todays overall adult population.

Seat cushions are largely a matter of preference, the potential for added comfort must be weighed against their effect on seat geometry and difficulty in stowage when not in use. They may also require fiddles to keep them in place, making sitting uncomfortable when the cushions are not in use.

Perhaps the best argument for the use of cushions is shock and vibration. When you initially sit down, or as the boat falls off a wave, the shock compresses the discs in your back, leading to strain in your lower back.

Long periods of time are also often spent motoring or with a generator operating; vibration-sensitive people can become ill as a result of vibration.

For maximum long-term comfort, seat cushions need not be more than about 2″ thick. Construction should be comprised of 1-1/2″ medium foam padding glued on top of 1/2″ firm, closed-cell foam. Seat covering material should not be coarse or slippery, but should breathe, resist mildew and have UV protection. Marine acrylics do a good job.

As for color, a non-reflective light gray is the best choice for cushion coverings, for the same reasons light gray non-skid is popular (i.e., it has low reflectance, stays relatively cool and is psychologically neutral). If you find gray too boring, a neutral green or blue green is also a good choice. Green, not only low in reflectance, has been found to have a calming psychological effect and isn’t that why many of us go sailing in the first place?

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Great article! The products in this review may have made I realize that there are several choices of boat seat. Since I’ve learned a lot from various items, I now can invest in the best boat seats for me and my boat.

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Stern perch cockpit seats

• Thread starter Ripster
• Start date 1 Jul 2013

Active member

Anyone retro-fitted stern rail mounted cockpit seats - if so which ones? Some yachts have them as standard and the commander-in-chief has asked if we could have some. There is definitely room for something inside the stern rail corners on ours, but apart from having custom made, I can't find anything generic that might fit.  

Custom made but found them uncomfortable (bordering on dangerous) so I don't use them anymore. Remember the pushpit is there for a reason - to stop one taking a header over the stern - now sit on a seat ½ way up the pushpit and one only has 6 or 8" back support - not much when ones derrière is sliding around and you have nowhere to brace ones feet. Might be OK sitting in a sheltered mooring sippings one's G&T but NFG when sailing.  

Well-known member

Ex-solentboy.

I think they are brilliant and wouldn't be without them. Ideal perch for a G&T in the evening sun. Don't let the doom mongers put you off.  

Agree with ExSolentboy and sealegsjim - best place on the boat on a sunny and windy day and often a fight to get there Of course when it's windy / rough then make sure the person is clipped on first  

Scarboroughsloop

Iain C said: Ex SB Socks and sandals...that's a red card and a fine!!!!!!!! Click to expand...

A seat to leeward on the poop deck must have its uses?  

Blueboatman

You can make them in plywood with a reinforcing timber across the front diagonal. You may find that because of the camber of the pushpit bars, they rock until you tickle them locally with a grizzly disc/angle grinder. And port and starboard may well be different, depending on manufacturer. Mine were available as a aftermarket 'blank' but I wanted them a tad deeper and thicker too. Well worth playing around in plywood before committing to quartersawn 45mm teak or suchlike.. They are grreat for extra guests and provide an overview of the action to those new to sailing without feeling caught up in the winching/tacking within the cockpit. Also, there's the fishing 'sometimes I chust thinks', option innit..  

sealegsjim said: Ideal perch for a G&T in the evening sun. Click to expand...

tokoloshe said: A seat to leeward on the poop deck must have its uses? Click to expand...

Hi Ripster. Made my own from iroko and got stainless legs made. They are the best seats in the cockpit and have been perfectly safe. Not able to post a photo from iPhone but can text u one if u pm me. Mark.  

Scarboroughsloop said: I'd agree normally but with a boat like that I'd let him off. What is she Ex SB? Click to expand...

Shuggy said: My guess would be a Rustler 44? Click to expand...

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Add-on Stern Pulpit

• Thread starter Zach Grammon
• Start date Nov 4, 2016
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 22

Zach Grammon

Recently I gave an old car to a friend of my brother. The young guy is a stainless steel welder, and as we were talking, I mentioned that I've always wanted to start welding. He asked what I would weld, and I told him about wanting a stern pulpit for my 1973 C-22. He said he would be interested in tackling that this winter, once worked slowed down, as a sort of trade for the car. So...if you could design a stern pulpit, what would you change to the original design? Or would you save the poor soul from trying to tackle the project in the first place. Also, I have young kids, so while the boat doesn't "need" them, they would be for my peace of mind. I've included a link to the Catalina Direct design for reference. https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/677_20/stern-pulpit-c-22--85.cfm  

Our original C-22,(1980 version), came with the stations, but no stern pulpit. The safety lines led down and were terminated along the cockpit combing. I ended up buying a stern pulpit from a dealer who ordered one for a customer that never returned to buy it. We really liked the way it looked on the boat, and after many years, I wouldn't changed a thing from the original design. Don  

C22-Daydreamer

CD had the separated stern pulpits on clearance the ones design for the Capri that could be installed on the C22's. So I snapped them up. They had some scratcheson the railing. I didn't have any front or back. Found a bow pulpit on ebay for under $300.00. Both are winter projects. My boat isn't perfect so I thought having a few scratches would fit the bill and save me some money. If I could afford it I would've have liked the old design that reached all the way around the stern. Maybe I'll try to find a stainless steel welder around here and have him add a cross member to tie the two separate pieces together.  

Look at stern pulpits on most newer boats, they are almost always 2 piece designs. This is much easier to set up and fabricate. You have to be careful, to get everything set up right it needs to be set up on the boat, otherwise it won't fit correctly after finish welding (welding heat causes metal to move... A LOT). If I had a tube bender I would have made new ones rather than modify my old one.  

FWIW, Railmakers has a drawing of the hardpoints. They sell rails for the C22 if you decide that route. http://railmakers.com/yachts/catalina-yachts/PDF-files/catalina22-Stern-29002.pdf  

CloudDiver said: Look at stern pulpits on most newer boats, they are almost always 2 piece designs. Click to expand

Jackdaw said: Yep. This is an artifact from the old days when the transom of a sailboat was almost as pinched as the bow. As transoms got wider, it became more and more common to connect two corner rails with lifelines across the back. As cloud notes now one-piece aft pulpits are gone. Click to expand

CaptDon01 said: View attachment 130486 For what it's worth, the 2016 C-22 still uses a one piece stern pulpit. Don Click to expand

CloudDiver said: Don, I would call that one a Hybrid. Each half is probably made in a Jig independently, then set up to add the single cross tube for the traveler bar as a last step. This is a good example to use as a guide, a fabricator could make the two halves first and mount them up, tacking on the traveler tube last. From a fabrication point of view this method would greatly eliminate various opportunities for 'play' (misalignment, movement of tube as it is heated from the welds). Click to expand

Never liked that C22 traveler design. It's an accommodation for the transom hung rudder and to provide a six foot bench. It makes much more sense to install the traveler on a bridge near mid cockpit, for a vertical run to boom's end. That location, however, would not sell boats to "family in the cockpit" sailors. So I get it.. Another alternative is to move traveler to a separate bridge and remove the pushpit. This would allow a much larger range of motion and still provide vertical room for tiller, when raised. Way too much trouble though... when the simple answer is to employ the vang more aggressively when going up wind.  

Joe said: Never liked that C22 traveler design. It's an accommodation for the transom hung rudder and to provide a six foot bench. It makes much more sense to install the traveler on a bridge near mid cockpit, for a vertical run to boom's end. That location, however, would not sell boats to "family in the cockpit" sailors. So I get it.. Another alternative is to move traveler to a separate bridge and remove the pushpit. This would allow a much larger range of motion and still provide vertical room for tiller, when raised. Way too much trouble though... when the simple answer is to employ the vang more aggressively when going up wind. Click to expand

Joe, The factory traveler on a C-22 is pretty much useless in my opinion. I always say the best thing it's good for is pulling the mainsheet to the side to get at the BBQ grill on the stern pulpit. You'll see more and more of the racers abandoning them in the future I believe. The 3rd place boat in the C-22 Nationals this year didn't even use a traveler, (class rules don't say you have to use it). The boom is too weak in my opinion to hold up to sheeting in over the companionway, plus like you mention, the trip hazard. The new Selden spars are much stronger in my opinion, and could handle the loads, (think Capri-22). Don  

Jackdaw said: maybe, buts its a 40 year old design! Click to expand

SCameronBrown

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Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

Leave a comment

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

The Illustrated Guide To Boat Hull Types (11 Examples)

How To Live On a Boat For Free: How I'd Do It

How To Live on a Sailboat: Consider These 5 Things

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A sailboat doesn't have to be expensive if you know what you're doing. If you want to learn how to make your sailing dream reality within a year, leave your email and I'll send you free updates . I don't like spam - I will only send helpful content.

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The Seamless Sailor

Self-reliant sewing for sailors.

Sitting in the Catbird Seat

Recently both Good Old Boat and Sailrite provided ideas for covering pushpit rails and catbird seats.  Simple and straightforward, you too could be sitting pretty.

Good Old Boat (March/April 2013 issue) had an article on covering catbird seats by Clarence Jones that is easy enough for a non sewer. He used iron on fabric mending tape to create the seams and snaps to hold the cover on.

Sailrite just did a video too.  They sewed the hems and used Velcro to fasten the cover.

They both used home foam insulation underneath.

Either way would make a nice comfortable perch for any catbird.

Blog Dedication:

This post is dedicated to my cat, Stella, who will not be cruising with us as she has gone to the rainbow bridge – maybe to finally catch a catbird…

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My new pushpit seat.

Discussion in ' Wooden Boat Building and Restoration ' started by hansp77 , Sep 22, 2007 .

I was going to reply to my own old thread where I was asking advice about this very thing... but the forum would not let me, as the thread was too old... gives you an idea of how long this took me so, here it is... Finally, I have finished and installed the new pushpit. It took me, well, just a little while but it is on there, and aside from being really really comfortable, it is solid as a rock, and I am really happy with the lines and appearance and how it works with my boat. Here is a shot of it at home, just after final fitting of the wooden seat. Rather than forking out for teak, or sourcing out some white beech, I compromised and just used some merbau (Kwila) I had at hand (if worst comes to worst, it will not be hard to pull it off and use it as templates for some other timber). I saturated it in pure tung oil for about three days (with a little dryer added) and it has cleaned up a treat (now I just have to get the dryed tung oil off my stainless steel). The S Steel is all 316 grade, and was welded by a combination of TIG and MIG. Most of it by and uncle and myself and the last touches by some goon I had to pay through the nose for (because we had lost access to the last welder we where using). Cost? well, I would rather not think about that... Nearly half the cost was paying the SOB at the end who overcharged me, and then a whole lot in stainless steel... but still cheaper and IMHO better made and fitted to my boat than what it would have cost to get someone else to do it... Just. It is done and on there, that is all I care about now. heres a picture of it just after installing on the boat. If you can ignore that dodgey old bird poo covered poop deck hatch (that is the next thing waiting to be put down next weekend- a lovely new build curved top hatch) then you can see how it is positioned. The bottom of the curved back legs sits square on top of the transom, and the front rail of the seat (under your knees) is pretty much directly above the transom line and follows where the old pushpit middle rail sat (with the curve of the wood following the curve of the transom). I can't remember the actual dimensions of the seat and back, but it was worked out as standard to ergonomical requirements of a comfortable seat... and it is comfortable. When sitting at the tiller, the back rest and rail is thankfully well below the horizon line, so does not significantly impede ones view. If you look at my gallery, there is a shot of Altair floating in the water where you can sort of see the profile of the pushpit (you have to click on the bigger image to see any detail- why I didn't post it here). Now that the pushpit is on, I can finally put up my stauchions again- well almost.. so in anticipation, I have just finished reinstalling my toerails with brass runners that with the deck, my staunchions screw into. For anyone who has followed or remembers my journey from a know-nothing new boat owner to a ... well know-just-a-little-morethan-nothing boat owner, then.. this is where I am at, next weekend, the poop deck hatch, soon after the splasboards and winches, then the staunchions... and we are ready to repaint that bird crap stained deck, etc... The engine (old stuart turner 8hp) is finally running well, after fixing the carby and its float- and I can now with confidence get the thing started. Anyway, there it is, comments welcome, and in the mean time we have been having a good time camping out on it. Here was a night a couple of weeks ago, sitting on my new pushpit seat, celebrating my partner and I's 5 yr anniversery, looking out over the melbourne city skyline. Hans.  

waikikin Senior Member

Looks nice Hans, but try as hard as I could to see there seems to be no beer holders or provision for an ice bucket? maybe you can add it after "all" the work is done. All the best from Jeff  

Cheers Jeff, yeah, um, no beer holder as standard- HOWEVER, if you look at the three vertical supports, I have welded on some carefully placed eye nuts I had to machine these out a tiny bit so that they snugly fit the same size tubing as the pushpit. There are two on the back vertical, to take a pole for a canopy/boom tent, or on the odd occasion a (pirate ) flag pole, and one on each the port and starboard verticals to take fishing boards, BBQ, beer holders, etc. I haven't yet built the extra add-ons, but have plenty of tubing left over to rig what ever I want up. The BBQ is going to be fun, totally overhanging so drips and crumbs feed the fish ('burley' )- don't know whether to try and make it from scratch, or just find one that suits and retro-fit (second option no doubt safer). anyway, thanks for the interest. More work planned for this weekend. Can't wait. Hans.  

Slat seating

It's finally time for some nice seats for the flybridge

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Winner of European Yacht of the Year 2023. The Oyster 495 is a new breed of 50 foot sailing yacht

Introducing the award-winning Oyster 495.

A luxury, bluewater cruiser with half a century of Oyster experience and innovation running through her every inch.

Effortless handling

The new Oyster 495 is a 50 foot yacht designed for ease of use and shorthanded sailing.

LOCAL EXPERTISE

For new yacht sales and our service operation in the Americas, visit our offices in the heart of the US East coast sailing scene, Newport, Rhode Island. We would be delighted to help.

Distinctly Oyster

She embodies all the learning, insights and innovative features from Oyster’s larger models, intelligently integrated into this benchmark 50 foot sailboat.

Equipped for adventure

A true liveaboard bluewater cruiser, equipped to take you anywhere in luxury, comfort and safety.

Join us at our London Private View at St Katharine Docks, 24-28 April 2024, to see the Oyster 495, 565 and 595

Displaying all the hallmarks of Oyster’s exquisite craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail, the exceptional build quality of the Oyster 495 means she is built to last a lifetime.

BUILDING THE 495

Join double Olympic gold medallist, sailor and respected journalist, Shirley Robertson, as we build and sail the first Oyster 495.

Every inch an Oyster, the new Oyster 495 features instantly recognisable design cues – deck saloon, seascape windows and flush decks, combined with exceptional sailing performance.

Unmistakably Oyster

The latest collaboration between humphreys yacht design and our in-house design studio, the new 495 50 foot sailing yacht is an evolution of five decades of iconic oyster design cues..

Her clean hull lines and wide beam aft are the foundation for the outstanding space and capabilities of the Oyster 495. She incorporates many of our big yacht features in a compact 50 foot yacht. Instantly recognisable as an Oyster, the Oyster 495 features our pioneering deck saloon, protected cockpit and helm stations, wraparound and forward-opening saloon windows. Flush decks, signature triple vertical seascape windows, foredeck skyscape windows, a powerful plumb bow and extended bowsprit complete the look.

We were the first boat builder to create a truly ergonomically designed cockpit and helm positions, with sprayhood and optional bimini for additional protection. Details like the cockpit table, with optional built-in refrigerated drinks locker, that comfortably seats up to eight people, is just one of the many triumphs of Oyster design thinking.

The Oyster 495 consistently delivers powerful, responsive and rewarding performance in safety and comfort.

Nine knots is her happy place and her well-balanced, stable wide-beamed hull form gives you confidence to keep the sails up in almost any conditions. Twin rudders make her light and agile on the helm, offering fingertip control even in the most boisterous seas. Her low centre of gravity keel offers substantial displacement for enhanced stability and handling, and she moves easily in cruising trim. Carrying significant sail power, you are guaranteed consistently fast cruising speeds and the optional sprayhood and bimini provide excellent protection from the sun, whilst improving all-round comfort.

This 50 foot sailboat for sale offers the range of innovative automated sailing technology. This includes in-mast furling with push-button controls and B&G instruments, all operated from the helm positions, making her the perfect choice for couples or young families.

The Oyster 495 features lots of space to relax and share good times with friends and family.

Her wide beam offers unexpected returns in space, both above and below decks – something you will not find on any other 50 foot sailboat for sale. The beautifully styled centre cockpit is perfect for entertaining up to eight people for alfresco dining. The aft pushpit seats are a great place to see all the action under sail. The wide teak deck at the stern and flush foredeck offer generous entertaining and sunbathing spaces.

The transom houses an innovative, push-button operated, cassette boarding/bathing platform. A choice of subtle mood lighting and integrated audio speakers let you set the tone for entertaining guests under the stars.

New generation interiors feature modern styling, integrated technology and equipment for truly luxurious entertaining and living spaces.

Contemporary luxury and comfort

The oyster 495 benefits from our new generation luxury, contemporary interiors that elevates her above the best 50 foot yachts..

With four interior designed themes, 495’s interiors set a new standard in her class. The well-equipped, seaworthy, u-shaped galley, saloon and cabins are well-proportioned, comfortable and luxurious. Her wide beam aft offers unexpected space compared to any other 50 foot yacht for sale.

She is eminently practical, making her perfect for liveaboard adventures. Intelligent interior space planning, combining insights and the acclaimed craftsmanship from our larger yachts, makes use of every inch of hull volume. The tasteful choice of materials, fabrics and integrated technology throughout, along with modern styling, creates truly luxurious entertaining and living spaces. The impressive owner’s cabin, with its deep luxury mattress, has excellent headroom and signature triple seascape windows, creating an amazing feeling of space and light throughout the new Oyster 495. Our new mood lighting system creates a perfect interior environment.

Like all our yachts, the new Oyster 495 is handcrafted by master craftspeople with a meticulous attention to detail, and a deep sense of pride and passion.

The learnings of half a century of designing and building bluewater cruisers feed into every detail, and the insights of our owners, skippers and crew, sailors and our own team help fine-tune every aspect of the design and build. The result is a unique combination of design, technology, engineering and hand-crafted build quality. Beautiful hardwoods run throughout every inch of this exquisite 50 foot sailboat, in everything from hand-built furniture to intuitively placed grab rails. This focus on detail reveals itself in the beautiful, hand-crafted cabinetry and the easily accessible, carefully labelled cables and pipework that run behind the scenes to make maintenance tasks simple.

The Oyster 495 is a truly connected 50 foot yacht with all the latest technology you need to stay in touch, however remote your location.

Not only does it make her an ideal liveaboard yacht, but it also makes her a work-aboard yacht. Every system is chosen for its ruggedness and fitness for purpose. The chart table is a technology hub, featuring an optional, innovative, foldout, integrated PC; lift-top desk; plotter; VHF and SSB radios; power management; generator control; switchboard; and plenty of power sockets. Oyster’s proprietary digital switching system – Oyster Command™ – lets you monitor and control various systems over a digital network and touchscreen. Optional WIFI can be accessed through the latest satellite technology, or 4G/5G cellular antenna when close to onshore radio masts. Entertainment systems are seamlessly integrated, with a concealed saloon TV and audio running throughout the boat.

The joy of Oyster ownership

There is more than just pride on offer when it comes to owning an Oyster 495. Every new Oyster comes with a comprehensive warranty, personalised care, access to our global service network, unrivalled support, life-changing experiences and so much more.

On an Oyster the world is yours.

OYSTER OWNERSHIP

Ownership benefits rarely experienced in marine

Discover the 495 in detail.

QUICK LINKS

More information

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Specifications & features

Electric in-mast furling system.

The in-mast furling system takes automation and effortless shorthanded sailing to another level.

Electric winches

Push-button control with electric Lewmar winches in sleek, black anodised finish.

Bathing platform

The innovative, automated cassette bathing platform is ideal to access ocean swimming, boarding a dinghy or stern access when berthed. It features a sturdy boarding ladder and integrated freshwater shower on the transom steps.

B&G Navigation package

The standard B&G navigation system displays boat speed, wind and depth information.

Master cabin with Seascape windows

An impressive full width owner’s cabin is completed by Oyster’s signature triple Seascape windows. These create a feeling of light and space, with exceptional ocean views.

Touch screen controls

Oyster Command™ digital switching system controls everything from on board entertainment and lighting to all your main systems, utilities and security, through touchscreens at the helm and chart table.

Wood options

Choose from a selection of wood themed interiors, including shades of sustainable sourced oak and walnut.

Extensive on deck stowage

A full width lazarette and separate sail locker provide ample storage for all your bluewater adventure kit, sails, rigging and mooring gear.

Flush Flexiteak decks

With a beautiful fine grain teak finish, the sustainable synthetic Flexiteak deck is 30% lighter than traditional teak, extremely hard wearing and retains it look with minimal maintenance.

Opening saloon windows

Oyster’s unique, deck saloon forward opening windows provide excellent ventilation, allowing fresh air to circulate freely through the yacht while at anchor or under sail.

DNV GL hull certification

DNV GL carry out stringent quality checks throughout the build of the Oyster 495 hull to certify the materials and construction reach the highest standards of extreme strength and durability.

Take advantage of shallow-draft cruising grounds and remote anchorages, with a draft of 1.83m / 6’0”.

Retractable bow and stern thrusters

Sleipner Side-Power retractable bow and stern  thrusters make it simple and safe to manoeuvre in and out of tight marina berths.

Entertainment package

Choose from an optional range of integrated electronic and AV systems to suit your personal preferences.

Saloon day bed

The multifunction saloon table can be raised and lowered to create a comfortable day bed, perfect to relax on and enjoy the integrated widescreen TV.

Hull colours

Personalise your Oyster 495 with alternative coloured hull, mast and sails. See our colour picker for inspiration.

Air conditioning

Keep the interior at the perfect temperature with air conditioning (and generator) that cools and heats. Controls in each cabin allow guests to adjust the temperature based on their personal requirements.

B&G upgrade package

Upgrade the standard B&G navigation package with the additional instrumentation, communication equipment and autopilot package.

Flush teak decks

Extensive sustainably sourced, quarter-sawn, full-depth teak ensures maximum longevity and lifespan of our hand-laid teak decks. Smooth and natural underfoot, they look stunning.

Pushpit seats

For the best seats aboard, the optional pushpit seats provide great views and the perfect spot for sundowners after a memorable day’s cruising.

Enjoy 100 litres of fresh, homemade water per hour with a reliable Dessalator Duo watermaker with automatic controls and manual override.

Add davits to the stern deck for a practical dingy stowage solution when cruising and fast, efficient access when exploring at your destination.

Plans and interior layouts

Colour inspiration

The Oyster World Rally 2028-29. Embark on the sailing adventure of a lifetime. Entries open 18 June 2024

EXPERT OPINION

Independent reviews of the Oyster 495. Find out what the experts have to say.

AWARD WINNING

Oyster 495 wins European Yacht of the Year 2023

The Oyster 495

Expert opinion

495 on test with Toby Hodges

Configure your 495

Create your dream Oyster 495 using our yacht configurator

Building the 495

Follow the build with double Olympic gold medallist Shirley Robertson

The Oyster Fleet

Explore other models

An award winning sub 60 foot bluewater sailing yacht for all oceans.

The new Oyster 595, a 60 foot sailing yacht capable of great things.

A versatile sub 70 foot sailboat designed for the adventurous at heart.

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© 2024 OYSTER YACHTS

Follow the Oyster World Rally 2024-25 fleet live

The new 565 Series II

The pursuit of perfection continues

Explore the benefits that come with taking ownership of a new Oyster, and becoming part of the family

GRAND TOURING

The new oyster 885gt revealed. watch her in action.

LUXURY CHARTER

Experience exhilarating sailing, luxury and style on an oyster charter. personal, exclusive and uniquely oyster.

Join Oyster Brokerage at the Palma International Boat Show, 25-28 April 2024. Book your tour today

Oyster world rally.

Winner of European Yacht of the Year 2023. She sets a new 50 foot bluewater benchmark, offering a stunning combination of sailing performance, comfort, safety and luxurious living space.

Heralding a new generation of Oysters, this 60 foot bluewater cruiser is a sailing yacht for all oceans. Practical and well-provisioned for long distance sailing or cruising in coastal waters.

The much-anticipated Oyster 595 is well-proportioned and extremely versatile. Offering exciting, customised build options with no compromise, she is capable of great things.

A versatile sub-70 foot sailboat offering the perfect balance of size and practicality. She can be sailed shorthanded effortlessly or take a full crew and up to eight friends and family.

This long range 75 foot cruising yacht is designed for very big adventures. A joy to sail yourself, she also boasts dedicated crew quarters.

Oyster 885SII

An exhilarating 90 foot sailing yacht, delivering comfort and safety with uncompromising performance. She is capable of taking you anywhere in the world effortlessly, in luxury and style.

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VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry’s wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country’s leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month’s Passenger Vessel Week.

Related Posts

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Tags: Emperium Filka Moscow Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development Moskva River Presnya Russia Sinichka WBW newbuild

• Previous VESSEL REVIEW | Ferry Rokko – Second 194m Ro-Pax for Miyazaki Car Ferry
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Six Candidates Running For Three Seats On Moscow City Council

September 10, 2023 Evan Ellis News

Moscow voters will have several contested elections to decide this fall.

The candidate filing period for seats up for a vote this year in Idaho ended on Friday.

Six candidates are running for three Moscow City Council seats.  Incumbents Sandra Kelly and Drew Davis are running for re-election.  Bryce Blankenship, Joe Campbell, Evan Holmes and Nathan Tupper are also running for city council.  The top three vote getters in November will earn Moscow City Council seats.  Councilwoman Maureen Laflin is not running for re-election.

Elsewhere in Latah County the race for Juliaetta Mayor has three candidates.  Mayor Richard Groseclose is being challenged by Jeff Lohman and Eric McDowell.

No one filed for mayor and a council post in Onaway.