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34 Luxury Yacht Decks (Bow, Flybridge and Rear Deck Photos)

Aerial view of two luxury yacht stern and flybridge decks

Larger yachts have multiple decks with all kinds of seating, dining areas and in some cases jacuzzis, bars, outdoor kitchens and more. Below we include a chart showing the main decks of a yacht followed by many photos of different luxury yacht decks. Enjoy.

Related: Kayak Storage Ideas | Catamaran Apartment | Craftsman Floating Home | Large Floating Home

Types of Decks on a Yacht (Chart)

Chart showing the main types of decks on a yacht

  • Bow (Main) Deck:  This is usually the largest deck area and it’s situated at the front of the boat. Some yachts have built-in seating while others don’t.
  • Flybridge (Upper) Deck:  This is the outdoor captain’s area to operate the boat but includes seating and/or dinette area (depending on size). Some flybridge decks are covered or can be covered.
  • Promenade Deck:  These are the narrow side decks that lead you from front to back and vice versa.
  • Stern (Lower) Deck: This is the deck at the rear of the boat. Some yachts have multiple stern (lower) rear decks if it’s multiple levels. You can access the cabin from this deck.

Luxury Yacht Deck Photos

1. flybridge decks.

Flybridge deck with built-in curved blue sofa and jacuzzi.

2. Stern Decks

Rear deck on smaller yacht with dinette (uncovered)

3. Bow Decks

Front bow deck on luxury yacht with built in sofas and jacuzzi.

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  • Sailboat Deck Layouts

large yacht deck plans

I’m going to use the Outbound 46 as a base to write about optimal deck layouts for sailboats. Information that will help anyone to either select a good deck layout when buying a boat, or fix a screwed-up one on a boat they already have.

Good Deck Layouts Are Rare

That last sentence may surprise many since it would be logical to expect cruising sailboats to have good and functional deck layouts, but as an ex-sailmaker and longterm racer, the thing that never ceases to amaze me is that most boats, particularly those marketed as cruisers, come out of the yard with the rig and deck gear set up so poorly that actually sailing them is nothing but a huge chore, and it takes years for even a knowledgeable owner to sort things out—just read Colin’s trials and tribulations with the rig on his Ovni 435 to see what I mean.

This is so bad that I’m pretty sure that the popularity of in-mast and in-boom mainsail furling systems is in large part because most boats are so poorly set up for reefing that owners have been scared off simple and robust systems and toward complex, fragile, and expensive ones.

I will also write, once more, about speed. I know, we are cruisers, so why do we care? Well, up to you, but to me if we are going to really cruise under sail, rather than just motor around with an oversized flag pole and occasionally unroll a sail attached to it as we see so often these days, we might as well do it properly.

Seriously, a well set-up boat, efficiently reeling off the miles under wind power alone, is one of life’s sublime pleasures, and knowing that we can control the rig and shorten sail quickly and efficiently without automation or brute strength is the cherry on top.

Let’s look at how to do that:

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More Articles From Online Book: Sail Handling and Rigging Made Easy:

  • Six Reasons To Leave The Cockpit Often
  • Don’t Forget About The Sails
  • Your Mainsail Is Your Friend
  • Hoisting the Mainsail Made Easy—Simplicity in Action
  • Reefs: How Many and How Deep
  • Reefing Made Easy
  • Reefing From The Cockpit 2.0—Thinking Things Through
  • Reefing Questions and Answers
  • A Dangerous Myth about Reefing
  • Mainsail Handling Made Easy with Lazyjacks
  • Topping Lift Tips and a Hack
  • 12 Reasons The Cutter Is A Great Offshore Voyaging Rig
  • Cutter Rig—Should You Buy or Convert?
  • Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting
  • Cruising Rigs—Sloop, Cutter, or Solent?
  • The Case For Roller-Furling Headsails
  • UV Protection For Roller Furling Sails
  • In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing—Convenience and Reliability
  • In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing —Performance, Cost and Safety
  • The Case For Hank On Headsails
  • Making Life Easier—Roller Reefing/Furling
  • Making Life Easier—Storm Jib
  • Gennaker Furlers Come Of Age
  • Swept-Back Spreaders—We Just Don’t Get It!
  • Q&A: Staysail Stay: Roller Furling And Fixed Vs Hanks And Removable
  • Rigid Vangs
  • Rigging a Proper Preventer, Part 1
  • Rigging a Proper Preventer—Part 2
  • Amidships “Preventers”—A Bad Idea That Can Kill
  • Keeping The Boom Under Control—Boom Brakes
  • Downwind Sailing, Tips and Tricks
  • Downwind Sailing—Poling Out The Jib
  • Setting and Striking a Spinnaker Made Easy and Safe
  • Ten Tips To Fix Weather Helm
  • Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
  • Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 2
  • Two Dangerous Rigging Mistakes
  • Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
  • Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
  • Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
  • Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders
  • Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
  • 12 Great Rigging Hacks
  • 9 Tips To Make Unstepping a Sailboat Mast Easier
  • Cruising Sailboat Spar Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Running Rigging Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Rig Wiring and Lighting Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Roller Furler and Track Inspection
  • Download Cruising Sailboat Rig Checklist

Dick Stevenson

Hi John I could not agree with you more about how frequently boats with conventional mains are poorly set up for easy reefing and eventual dousing. It is another area where the maritime media/boatbuilders etc. have dropped the ball at educating owners how best to have their boat set up. Too many sailors (and their crew) get put off by a poor and difficult reefing set-up which likely means they have put off reefing and been over-canvased needlessly: always a lousy thing. Enough of that and they are buying a cabin in New Hampshire. I urge those looking at in-mast or in-boom furling to consider that reefing and dousing the main can be easy and fairly fast and with a minimum of effort on a boat that is well set up for it. I then enumerate the myriad down-sides of particularly, in-mast reefing/furling and the benefits of a conventionally rigged main. I am in no way a speed demon, but I like to sail and I like to sail well. You mention sublime pleasure in cranking out miles: my sublime pleasure often comes at watching superbly shaped sails at work; especially when in challenging weather, the third reef is in and working and that small sail is perfectly shaped to do its job and as bulletproof in functioning as can be devised. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

John Harries

I agree completely, particularly on the pleasure of looking at really good mainsail shape when reefed.

Rob Gill

Hi John, I totally get your “simplicity” approach and at mast mainsail handling preference. It just wouldn’t work for us and I suspect for many other cruising couples. I think I can see at least one hatch in the Outbound 46 hard-dodger top, which means adjusting the halyard / reefing lines and setting the mainsail / twist, should be simple enough from the cockpit, if (big “IF” I know) the reefing lines are well set-up. And I personally like this set-up for short-handing. Our safety process requires a second crew to be in support, if someone leaves the cockpit (day or night, coastal or offshore). I would guess we could reef / shakeout a reef on the Outbound 46, without calling the off-watch crew – a real-plus in our book as we mostly sail two-up. Our first mate would not cruise with me if I left the cockpit every time we needed to take a reef in rough conditions. It’s that simple. And if something happened to me, there is no way she would go forward to the mast and handle the sail on her own. Whereas she can, and does, reef single handedly on our boat, and I would guess she could on the Outbound 46 set-up, which is almost identical to our boat – the difference is we have in-boom furling which simplifies operations further. Likewise, the outbound 46 set-up would be easy and safe to hoist / lower / reef the mainsail when single-handing. I see so many single-handing yachts sailing just with their headsails, I suspect because on-mast mainsail handling leaves no one in the cockpit, if something happens. I often single hand our yacht with no loss of efficiency and really enjoy it. Br. Rob

I just can’t see that twisting ones head to look up out of a small hatch to see the mainsail while simultaneously grinding a winch and operating clutches is ever going to provide the visibility and situation awareness of looking directly at the part of the sail you are tensioning while standing at the mast while right next to the luff where any hang ups can be quickly seen and dealt with. So yes, for sail trim the hatches may help a bit, but not for reefing. Also at night on the Outbound a headlamp will reflect off the hatch glass making visibility of the main effectively zero.

I agree that being able to reef and shake out without calling the off watch is vital, but we do that fine at the mast too. Phyllis and I are also not fans of the idea of calling the off watch every time someone leaves the cockpit since we feel that the disruption of rest outweighs and added benefit of so doing.

I guess that relates to our basic thinking that the deck, particularly as far as the mast is not an intrinsically hazardous place to be avoided, but simply part of the working area of the boat, just as the cockpit is. We feel that regularly visiting the mast in all weathers is vital since it will be required anyway for functions like setting a proper preventer, setting the pole, and moving the runners forward, not to speak of clearing any kind of SNAFU.

We also differ in that we evaluated in boom furling/reefing and rejected it as too fragile, difficult to fix at sea, and expensive for our needs. That was based on experience in that the boat I did was on for six weeks as guide on a trip to Greenland had one.

So, in summary, I guess we just see things in a fundamentally different way.

Mark Wilson

Like you I mostly sail singlehanded or effectively singlehanded and I don’t really regard going forward in a rising wind as a pleasurable experience, especially in the dark. I’d like to add granny bars at the mast but worry that they would be extra deck clutter and spoil “the look”. But I’ve got to say I’m with John on this one. There’s quite enough string in the cockpit already without adding seven more bits. And, while in boom furling does look attractive, for me its too reminiscent of the appalling old rotating boom mainsail furling system I had on my first yacht, a Folkboat. The sail shape one got on that in any but perfect conditions was sad to see.

The sailor who puts in an early reef is a happy sailor. And probably longer living. How often is one surprised at the improved performance that results from under-pressing the rig ? And, while there is a lot that can lengthen the time at the mast putting in a reef, shaking an unnecessary one out really is a matter of seconds.

In defence of modern in boom furling, the set is way better than it was in the bad old days of roller reefing mainsails. That said, my big problem with them is complexity and fragility. Probably fine for inshore sailing where if they break you can just take the main down and head for somewhere to wait for parts and with smooth water where you can fix it, but I would never take one offshore, and particularly not to the high latitudes. All this based on taking a yacht to Greenland with one.

Lee Corwin

I own a Outbound 46 hull#50. Would add the following. The hydraulic backstay is quite helpful reefing the Genoa. Put tension on that stay and she rolls up more easily. Unless you tune the rig with more tension on the solent stay then the Genoa stay when the backstay is untensioned you get headstay sag on the solent. You lose nothing upwind using the solent instead of the Genoa going upwind so the need to roll up the Genoa before tacking is a non issue as it ends up being a reaching or running sail. We stand single watches. I love having both the primaries (powered) and the headsail reefing lines an arms length away from the wheel. I can reef under control, by myself with no engine nor AP. Then go forward and deal with reefing the main. I can do it under Hydrovane. Not needing to bring anybody up from below is wonderful. I hate single line reefing on any boat. It better than in boom or in mast but not by much. If done get a Dutchman as well. That makes it easier to inch the main down and have both ends of the sail tension correctly as you can see what’s going on and the sail has no choice but to fold correctly. Outbound come single for first two and double for the third. Would think to get just two very deep reefs and make both double. I have the survey being done on Tuesday. Then she’s gone as we transition to a Norhavn. The Outbound is the best mom and pop blue water cruising boat there is imho.

I too am not a fan of single line reefing so I think your recommendation to go with two deef reefs each with two separate reefing lines would be a good one.

Marc Dacey

That’s how we went, but then as a comparatively heavy motorsailer, we tend to leave the full main up a little longer than some just to make the boat go. We have separate reefing lines, as well and have all halyards and related lines at the mast. We have preventers, staysail sheets, yankee jib sheets and occasionally, spinnaker sheets back to the winches (three pairs) in the aft cockpit position, where there is also end-boom mainsheeting (6:1) and a strong Garhauer traveller (3:1). Works for us to date. I have over the years become a touch suspicious about “convenience” unless the sea first makes its case.

Martin Minshall

I agree was many of your points and know by your article I am not going to convince you, but we love being able to put in and take out reefs in from the cockpit. We can easily put a reef in or shake a reef out in less than a minute on our 37 foot cruising boat. I have read Colin’s article and I think a single line for each reef is way too much friction. We use a second line to pull the tack into the right position at the goose neck. These lines on our boat are only 5/16. Each one is led from the reefing hook, through the reef tack crinkle to a carefully placed bullseye on the mast, through a pulley at the mast base and then back to a harken cam cleat next to my jammers. You never need to put this on a winch – the idea is to get the bullseye position such that you end up with the reef crinkle pulled into the goose neck at just the right position when the halyard is re-tensioned. The clew end is conventional – from a bowline positioned about 6 inches aft of where you could stretch out the foot of the sail at the reef point up through the reef clew cringle to pulleys at each end of the boom through a good block at the base of the mast and then to a jammer and winch at the cockpit. When putting in a reef we pull down on the tack line while easing the halyard. Don’t allow slack in the halyard – the jammer is cast off but the halyard is restrained by hand with a single turn around the winch. 2 or 3 times we will pause in this operation by locking the halyard jammer and pulling the slack out of all the other tack and clew reefing lines by hand. We have found that this is the secret to being able to complete the whole operation from the cockpit since minimizing slack loops prevents them getting caught up anywhere. We continue until the halyard is just past a mark on the halyard line and then put the tack line in the cam cleat. At night we shine a flashlight on the tack to make sure it is neatly pulled into the gooseneck and then tension the halyard on the winch. Once again take the time to take all the slack out of the other reef lines by hand. Put the clew reefing line on a winch and crank until you are happy with the foot and leach tension – you need to check this with a flashlight at night.

Our reefs can be put in in way less time than it takes to write about it quickly and safely from the cockpit without even having to put your jacket on. Because we can put in or shake out reefs in the main easily we do not procrastinate for a moment about reducing or increasing mainsail. Our record is 11 changes in a single 3 hour shift as a series or 20 minute squalls rolled through at night close to the equator on a passage from San Francisco to the Marquesas and the lone watchkeeper was busier than a one armed paper hanger reacting as the wind went up and down from 8 to 30 knots!

Sounds like a good system. And I agree that taking the slack out of the non-loaded reefing lines as you reef is important. We do the same at the mast.

John Zeratsky

Really glad to see you giving the Outbound a thorough look, John!

Having cruised full-time aboard an Outbound 46 from 2017–2019 (we no longer own the boat), I can report that the main halyard and reefing setup works exceptionally well. The only annoyance was, as you pointed out, somewhat poor ergonomics crouching under the dodger (I’m 6’3″). The dodger hatches are perfectly positioned (like everything else on the Outbound) so you can actually see the main while hoisting, reefing, and trimming.

I saw your response to Rob about working at the mast. I agree that the side decks and mast are “part of the working area of the boat”. On balance, considering all the factors, reefing from the cockpit gave us (my wife and me) more flexibility and more peace-of-mind than reefing at the mast, which we did on our previous boat (a Sabre 38).

Aside: I also appreciated how cockpit reefing lowered the behavioral “friction” of making the decision to reef. Leaving the cockpit (with all associated precautions) just feels… harder than staying in the cockpit. Reducing sail at the right time is one of the most critical components of safe and comfortable cruising, and I was glad I never had to “think twice” because I didn’t want to deal with leaving the cockpit. Perhaps that’s irrational, but so are we all 🙂 I think of it as behavioral systems engineering.

Interesting point on “behavioural” friction. It’s not a problem we have ever suffered from, probably because I actually like “ deck sports ” and as a ex-racer and sailmaker I can’t stand being under or over canvased, but I can certainly see that it could be an issue, particularly for people who have been subjected to poor deck layouts and therefore regard reefing as a huge chore, no matter how they do it.

That said, I think that this “behavioural friction” is something we should all work on overcoming and not give into or modify our boats to pander to it. In my experience, not getting out on deck regularly can lead to all kinds of problems, particularly being lazy about rigging proper preventers and generally checking things over from bow to stern at least twice a day, more often in heavy weather.

Don’t get me wrong, if you find in cockpit reefing works for you, that’s fine, it’s your boat, but if that leads to rarely leaving the cockpit for other vital functions, then I think it’s a mistake.

Philip Wilkie

Perfect timing John.

After six weeks of hard work my right now my deck is a perfectly clear expanse of white. Almost literally a clean sheet of paper. (So far 60 litres of Jotun epoxies with another 16L of Hardtop AX to go.)

Up until this point I my general for the deck layout was heavily influenced by the majority opinion I kept encountering locally which was to run all the mainsail controls back to the cockpit. But because there is a major step in our coachroof which forces two 30 deg turns in all the lines, I was always a little apprehensive on friction. So after reading this article (and a similar one from Peter Smith) I’m inclined to follow your advice.

All my halyards can readily stay at the mast, but moving all the other mainsail lines, the reefs, topping lift, outhaul, cunningham and vang back to the mast creates quite a traffic jam around the base of the mast. Any hints on how best to organise particular brew of spaghetti?

The key to keeping that spaghetti organized is to keep all the reefing and outhaul lines on the boom, rather than lead them down to the deck. We have an article on that with photos here:

Note that since I wrote that, we changed from jammers to clutches.

The vang control is the exception to my rule, and should be lead aft to the cockpit. Or, on boats over about 30,000 lbs a hydraulic vang with control in the cockpit is a good solution.

Hi John and all, I was not going to wade in on this, but wish to underline a couple of points and make a suggestion. In my estimation, getting rid of friction is a safety issue and not merely convenience, in part because friction (among other things) causes skippers to hesitate doing the right thing. This is the case for a racing boat with strong crew, but far more the case for a cruising couple. Also, friction might mean that a job does not get done well: say a sloppy reef that hurts the sail and degrades sail shape and sailing efficiency. Finally, to often I suspect the push for electric winches etc. is a result of poor design and unnecessary friction in the system. An example is the retrofit of an electric main halyard winch before one installs slippery mainsail track (as well as adding low friction blocks that may be in the system). Getting rid of friction has a good start with slippery mainsail track and low friction blocks and wise design. Few boats are offshore ready as built/designed which is a shame as it is a subsequent expense in $$ and time that is not necessary. And we all like to think our boat is good-to-go from the get-go so it is hard to immediately replace new items. It would not be hard for manufacturers to get it right from the get-go at little additional expense. Slippery track allows one to raise the main almost the whole way from the mast if design allows for full body stretch to get your whole weight into play. This changes a few minutes winching “ordeal” into a few seconds exertion followed by a few turns by winch handle to tension: easily done whether at the mast or under the dodger. This is convenient and fast, but not necessarily a safety issue. The safety aspect comes when reefing is done easily and without hang-up, when reefing/dousing is accomplished going downwind in a breeze, and when dropping the main and it comes down like an express train. My boat came with in-cockpit reefing (1st 2 reefs with the third reef downhaul done at the mast) and we have made it work and like it: in part because either of us can quickly and efficiently do the first 2 reefs alone from the cockpit whereas going on deck at night in boisterous conditions, we wake the off-watch. (We do “deck tour” inspections at change of watch when both of us are awake and kitted up.) Reefing from the cockpit, for us, takes a good deal of prior preparation at the onset of the season: mainly ensuring that line markers are in the correct place on all reef lines and halyard for each reef. This gets us very close to a good reef, but sometimes takes a bit of fine-tuning as things settle down and stretch out as the sail fills. This is easily seen from the cockpit and is accomplished by tweaking the reef/halyard lines from the cockpit. As to the spaghetti that is so often mentioned as the major downside of in-cockpit reefing, our solution is to snake all “tails” down the companionway. This is only done when reefed down and accumulating lines. On Alchemy, this could be (when deeply reefed and using all lines for adjustment) up to nine lines: 2 reef downhauls, 3 reef outhauls, 1 halyard, 1 main sheet, and 2 traveler lines. (Sounds terrible, doesn’t it!) These tails then reside comfortably on our engine box ½ way down to the floor or, at times, on the floor next to the bottom step. Lines, stored in this manner, are always good to go without tangles or the need to uncoil and ensure they run free. The lines, being lead next to and held to the sides of the ladder, never interfere with safe access to the steps. There are times, of course, where we wish to close up and when that occurs, we can do so with the washboards in and the hatch mostly closed. Those fortunately rare times where we wish to be fully closed up, securing the tails in the cockpit so they are not in the way, but ready to be worked takes a bit of work, but is no big deal. I suspect not all companionway designs lend themselves to this solution, but it has worked a peach for us for decades, and may help with the “spaghetti” mess for some boats where cockpit reefing is chosen. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy Ps. It has not been mentioned, I believe, but I would guess that the size of one’s boat may play a part in the choice/comfort level of going on deck in boisterous conditions. Bigger boats are just a lot more stable and predictable in their motion, smaller boats livelier and quicker to react to a wave slap or wind burp.

I totally agree on adding a slippery mainsail luff track. Adding ours a few years after we bought the boat is definitely the change we have made with the largest benefit.

Great. I’ll implement that. I hadn’t thought of double ending the reefing lines so that you can work from both sides.

I’ve also had a good yarn with a local with a very similar boat and 30 years of continuous live on the boat experience. He made an interesting observation on the lines led aft vs at the mast debate; his decision point is ‘if you an offshore sailor then reef at the mast’. His reasoning is that the longer passage the more likely something will go wrong, the more important it is you are well accustomed to leaving the cockpit in adverse conditions. And that applies to the whole crew. At the same time he acknowledges there is no absolute answer, that like everything else the decision is a compromise, and others will lead the lines aft for reasons that work for them.

He backs this up with good lifelines and a solid mast pulpit. Both of which I’m going to implement as well as per your articles in the past.

Thats an interesting way to look at the decision. But the more I think about it the more I worry that the trend to aft lines combined with cockpit enclosures is producing a generation of sailors who regard the deck as a scary place to be avoided, which I think is a very worrying trend. I have an article brewing on that.

That said, I’m sure there are sailors who are comfortable on deck and have the lines lead aft, which is all good.

Point being that I’m pretty sure that not going out on deck regularly is actually more dangerous than doing so.

Hi John, You write: “Point being that I’m pretty sure that not going out on deck regularly is actually more dangerous…” Good point. Take, for example, the learning curve for working the boat with harnesses attached so as to not get tangled or so frustrated as to unclip. If this is not done with regularity, such as during regular deck tours, then it will be more difficult when it comes to needing to work the boat in boisterous conditions. Or using the deck tour time to find handholds when heeled over 15-20 degrees so that your hand knows instinctively where they are at night with spray in your face. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Matt Marsh

The cockpit enclosures bother me. Particularly in our tight, high-traffic waters, I think they take away too much visibility and too much situational awareness. Three times out of four, if I have to take evasive action despite being the stand-on vessel, I’ll notice a full cockpit enclosure on the boat (power or sail) that didn’t see me.

We actually took our soft dodger down entirely last week and are finding that, in our local conditions (where waves do *not* break over the deck), the extra visibility is way more valuable than the shelter.

All lines led aft often makes for a real mess of spaghetti (read: tripping hazard) around the companionway. Trip-and-fall is, IMHO, likely a bigger risk than slipping overboard from the deck. I’m surprised by how many designers & builders think that a line just ends at the winch, and forget about the 50 feet hanging off beyond that. (It’s an issue at the mast, too; a lot of boats seem to have no good place to put coils of excess halyard, reefing line, etc. once the lines are tensioned.) I also see a lot of boats with no good places to clip a harness tether or rig a jackline, and am starting to think that this particular issue needs to be addressed at the “textbooks and engineering design standards” level.

I agree on the dangers of cockpit enclosures. The boat that nearly hit me last summer was being run from a totally buttoned up cockpit enclosure:

That said, I think that cockpit enclosures can be used safely, like most things, as long as we keep them open when we should so we can see and hear.

Bottom line, buttoned up cockpit enclosures are just another manifestation of the fundamental problem: putting comfort ahead of safety.

P D Squire

I wonder if it’s partly related to the boat’s seakindliness. A large, long-for-its-displacement yacht like MC has a much gentler action at sea than a lightweight, beamy, modern, race-inspired, accomodation-maximised-for-LOA “cruiser.” Leaving the cockpit in a small light boat is a lot scarier than doing it on a large heavy one.

You might be right, but the Outbound 46 would not fall into that class.

Also, my thinking would be don’t own a boat, at least for offshore sailing, that scares you so much that you don’t want to leave the cockpit.

Ernest E Vogelsinger

Regarding backstay tensioners – I am pondering my head how to handle twin (not split) backstays. For split backstays you might use a tensioner car as you had linked to, but this will not be possible for twins. I notice that MC has twin backstays, how did you set it up to allow symmetric tensioning/slacking them?

The best solution is two hydraulic rams plumbed to the same pump. Set up this way, they automatically equalize tension between the two stays.

David Eberhard

John, thank you for teaching us North Americans a new phrase today “poor diddums”,I like that.

As a retired rigger, if is even possible to be one, I could not agree with you more on not leading everything back to the cockpit. Very expensive and all that hardware sends friction through the roof. Just leave it on the mast where it belongs. My customers would say, but it’s not safe to go out of the cockpit at night or when the wind starts kicking up. If it’s not safe to leave the cockpit, you need to make it safe to leave the cockpit. You need a good Jack line system such as the one you described. You need a good hand holds so no matter where you are on deck there is something to hold onto. Solid hand rails rather than stanchions and wire. Best if you don’t have to bend over to find them. Handrails that when you stick your hand out that’s where they are. At the very minimum some kind of a deck edge so you don’t go sliding off the deck, bulwarks are even better. Mast bars that allow you to wrap a leg around to free up both hands are a great addition.

When it comes to hoisting the mainsail, or reefing it. A low friction system is the only way to go.. Finally broke down put a Harken bat car system on including bearings on the intermediate slides. Easy to raise the main, very easy to reef. Does not matter what the wind direction it is when reefing. Mark the reef points on the halyard with whippings so that you can feel them in the dark. It’s always a chore when you drop the sail a lot farther than you needed to. Only to have to winch it back up when it’s full of wind.

The photo of the mast base turning blocks illustrates one of my little pet peeves. The shackles are not safety wired. After having the main sheet blocks, come adrift from the traveler one day, thankfully in light air. I safety wire every shackle not taken on and off on a regular basis. Including roller furling headsail shackles.

I could not agree more!

And I agree on shackles too. That said, for roller furlers and the like I have had good luck with the self locking shackles that have little flats on the non-threaded side of the pin hole that stop the pin backing out.

Hi David and John, And I have had good luck with a little dab of silicone on the threads. I don’t like sharp wire ends about near sails or where line can be dragged over them like at the base of the mast. It is arguable that my skill at tucking them out of trouble could use improvement. Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Stanley White

Hello John! I have enjoyed reading your many articles over the past few years. This deck layout one is an excellent discussion and observations. I went through the same process several years ago before purchasing a new boat. I settled on an X-Yacht Xc38 with a John Mast. It has an outstanding deck layout whereby we sail short handed all the time and I have sailed in several long distance single handed races with some horrible weather. I have added inboard jacklines which increases safety when going to the mast (very infrequently) or the foredeck when hoisting the asymmetrical spinnaker or Code 0. I installed a rope clutch on the mast for single handed hoisting of the spinnaker and Code 0 sails. We did put an electric winch for the mainsail halyard! It is a well made offshore cruiser/racer.

Hi Stanley,

I have long been a fan of X-Yacht. Looks like a really fun boat.

Michael Albert

I do like lines and halyards at the mast for many reasons explained here. My vintage Tartan 40 has everything except jib halyard led to cockpit. A tides marine track allows me to hoist main to nearly masthead from cockpit. And better yet, a clam cleat installed on mast a few feet below the main halyard exit allows me to even more easily hoist main from the mast, place halyard in clam cleat, and then pull in slack and tension from cockpit. Clam cleat releases and stays well clear once line is led through sheaves. For my use this is enough of a “best of both worlds“ compromise that I won’t go through trouble of moving winches and lines. And I do like being able to drop main from behind dodger in a squall into the cradle cover. I recommend everyone with aft led main halyard at minimum install the clam cleat as it greatly improves ease of raising main particularly with lazy jacks.

Hi Michael,

That sounds like a good idea.

Eric Klem

The debate of cockpit versus mast based reefing is an interesting one.  In the compromises of boats, our boat came with everything done from the cockpit and it would be very difficult to retrofit to mast based reefing so I have never really considered it.  This works okay for us as the loads are relatively light due to being a smaller boat and we do not have a big enclosure so vision is not overly impaired (the boat came with a full cockpit enclosure that didn’t even feel safe for motoring so it has never been used).  Like Dick mentions above, we send reef line tails down the companionway in most conditions and it works well.  To me, the best part about this setup is that it is safe and easy to reef with a single person on deck when there are lobster pots around preventing long absences from the autopilot controls.  I suppose that you could get an autopilot remote and bring it to the mast but in the cockpit, it is easy to hit a course change on the autopilot in the middle of reefing.  One other thing that I like is that I can get the jib down (hank-on) into a position where it is secure enough for a little bit while steering simply using a downhaul that is led aft, this is super helpful coming into harbors.

If we had our boat setup as a primarily offshore boat, I suspect that I would prefer to do everything at the mast and of boats that I have sailed on, generally the ones done at the mast are better.  The issue with pot buoys would go away and the clutter in the cockpit would be a bigger deal.  Similarly, the position of the primaries may well be dictated by what the boat is being used for.  Offshore, most people don’t hand steer and there tend to be very few people on the boat making forward in the cockpit a good option.  Coastal, many more people will be hand steering and there are often people sitting in the way of winches that are further forward.  Our boat actually has the winches further forward and when sailing solo, I would strongly prefer having them aft.  It is especially the case when short tacking somewhere when I end up steering with 1 foot so that I can reach both the wheel and the winch, otherwise I would need to use the autopilot which is not my preference (I know that I am weird on this one, even offshore I hand-steer whenever we are sailing and there aren’t other things requiring attention, I suspect this comes from growing up on boats without windvanes or autopilots).

One thing I didn’t see discussed with lines led aft is what it does to winch ergonomics.  I find that I have no problem hand hauling up the main most of the way on up to mid 40’ers with lines led aft assuming that you can stand back behind the dodger and not be hunched over.  The problem comes once the winch gets involved.  The ergonomics under a dodger tend to be terrible and in many cases where the dodger was not part of the original design, you can’t even get a full rotation on the winch handle.  If you were able to raise the sail most of the way by hand, then this isn’t a huge deal.  After one of the discussions on this site in the last year, we procured a ratcheting winch handle and it makes this much better, thanks for pointing those out.  Where it gets really bad is sending someone up the mast.  I have sailed on boats where cranking a 125lb person to the top of the mast completely wears out a big grinder type due to the poor ergonomics.  On our own boat, if my wife is going up, I use the halyard winch as a turn of direction and crank her up with a primary.  If I am going up, jumaring is the name of the game provided that we are in a calm enough spot.  With halyards at the mast, I find all of this a ton easier.

And I agree with all of the other parts of the article too.

A good analysis, as usual. By the way, I did mention the problem of winch ergonomics in the post, although not as clearly as you did:

Worse still, on the Outbound we will be forced to bend down by the hard dodger—this is an ergonomic nightmare. The result of all this inefficiency is that the main must be ground most of the way up on a winch, which makes an electric halyard winch near-mandatory.

As to winch position, as you say it depends on how often you steer. That said the Outbound does not make sense to me since when steering the mainsheet is way too far to reach (under the dodger), and when not steering the jib winches are a ways from both the mainsheet and the dodger. To me an idea short handed set up is so that one can reach both main and jib sheet winches from whatever our preferred position is. Been thinking about this a lot for our next boat which we will be sailed inshore a lot, steering more, and quite often single handed.

Hi John, Sorry, I had missed that your statement included winch ergonomics the first time around.

If you are short tacking up a channel, then having the main winch less accessible is fine but for other changes, you are right that having the mainsheet nearby is helpful.  What we do which isn’t perfect is to play the traveler which I can control from behind the helm thanks to long tails but this requires a long traveler with low loads and even then, once you get to broad reaching, you need to use the sheet and you need to use the sheet if you want to change twist.  The other thing to keep in mind that I can think of is what you are doing during a chicken gybe where having a single person handling all sheets can sometimes be problematic.  On smaller boats, I often find myself standing at the wheel, mainsheet in hand with 1-2 turns on the winch.  Once you practice a bit, you can get really reliable at flicking a turn off from 10′ away provided there isn’t too much load on the line, putting another on is also doable but I find it sometimes takes multiple tries.

I could not agree more about having two sets of tracks for headsails. We have inboard and reaching tracks for our working jib, staysail and storm jib. The one thing that has always had me see the dollar’s flying off the sails was when changing from one track to the other or when adjusting our pin cars.

While building our steel boat, I really wanted to use the adjustable cars, but they were too expensive at the time. All of this while working full time and raising a family. Then there was the epiphany one day a month ago. I took a piece of 6mm spectra cored double braid 2 m long. Stripped off 60 cm of cover off. Spliced in a 6 cm eye in. Whip the other end and that’s all you need. To use, pass the eye around something good and strong that is within a short distance from the loaded car. Examples, stantions welded to the deck, perforated toe rails, other sheeting cars even if the are in use. Pass the end through the eye. Take the other end to the loaded sheet forward of the car and tie it to the sheet using a rolling hitch. Snug it up, ease the sheet to get the load off the car. Adjust the car, move from one track to another, whatever you need to do. Sheet her home. You might have a bit of leech flutter, but absolutely no flogging! It’s only been a few weeks since I put this together. And have found many uses well beyond my original application. To store it while keeping it handy. I fold it in half twice then luggage tag it to a cabin top handrail. Just makes you wonder sometimes why did it take me 18 years to figure something so simple and cost effective to make and use.

Good way to save the sails. As you say, flogging is terrible for them.

We used to do something very like it back in the day when changing headsails while racing. Called it a “changing sheet”.

George L

It seems to me that it is much more important how the lines are lead and how friction is minimized than whether the lines are lead aft. That means good hardware – blocks and sailtracks, and having only one 90 degree-bend at the mast-foot. A 30 or 45 degree redirection well executed doesn’t add that much friction. That also means avoiding single-line reefing and having a winch setup that is ergonomically sound.

TP 60ies that go around the world non-stop have everything led aft and it clearly works single-handed in very rough conditions. So do Class 40ies, though these “only” do 20 to 30 days non-stop. So do the (Volvo) Ocean race boats and the line-handling works like a charm (taking advantage of multi-person grinders, though).

Even so, I would go forward twice a day and check everything thoroughly, but I would do so during the day when I chose the time, not when I have to – possibly in the worst of times.

Benoit Phelan

Hi John, Great article as always.

Curious about your take on the mainsheet routing on certain Amel Ketches where the traveler is forward of the dodger and the sheet is run aft over the dodger and enclosure to the mizen mast. (links/image below)

Also, are the effects of a traveler greatly affected when raised? Say, if the Boreal in your example had a flat dodger with traveler or like the arch mounted traveler seen on certain Hunters.

Screen Shot 2022-08-24 at 11.41.59 AM.jpg

It seems a pity to have a nice safe traveler position like that and then lead the mainsheet in such a way as it can garrotte a crew member. If it were me designing the system I would go with a “German Mainsheet system” with the track where it is and the mainsheet double ended and lead back from blocks below the gooseneck to winches either side of the cockpit.

And yes, raising the mainsheet traveler closer to the boom enables windward sheeting with a shorter track.

Tyler Walkey

Hey John, New to AAC, loving it so far, trying to soak up as much as I can. I am looking to re-rig my 1980 Ingrid 38 ketch, following the simple is best approach you teach here. We are preparing to sail her from San Diego to Japan (where we live) across the south pacific. Do you know any good riggers in the Southern California area? Boat is in San Diego.


Early this year I did a major refit of my Islander 36 with the excellent support of the Ventura Harbor Boatyard. Work completed included a rebuilt mast step, new cap/intermediate shroud chain plates, and new standing rigging. The boatyard recommended a local rigger, Kim Weir, and I was extremely pleased with his work. Without hesitation, I recommend the services of VHBY and Kim Weir.

Thanks for coming up on that.

Sorry, I have never sailed on the west coast, so don’t have any experience with riggers there. That said, Brian Toss’s old shop is still in business run by guys Brian taught, so that might be an option, although a ways from you:

Also see Steve’s comment.

James Evans

No one has mentioned self-tacking jibs. Having owned two boats with them the thought of going back to winching every time you tack -particularly when singlehanded- fills me with horror. Huge genoas are, in any case, only a relic from ancient rating rules. Whether a jib boom ( particularly the internal boom as used on Freedom sloops) or jib traveller is used, short tacking becomes an effortless exercise. A small jib on a traveller can be trimmed more easily and efficiently than a Genoa. The mainsail is always the prime driver; the performance gain from oversized headsails is less than you think, and in these days of easily deployed offwind headsails is not a consideration off the wind.

I agree with most all you say, except I have never been a fan of jib booms, probably something to do with being naturally clumsy so I don’t need anything else to trip over on the foredeck!

Anyway, just loving sailing our J/109 with her big mainsail and blade jib.

On an otherwise good boat would you recommend moving the lines from the cockpit to the mast if you were going to have an e-wincher anyway, which would presumably overcome the extra friction while still giving the operator enough feel to know if something was going wrong?

Way too many variables to answer that: boat, usage, crew, how well the boat is set up with lines aft, and on it goes. That said, my 109 is lines aft and the wincher makes all the difference to practicality so I have no plans to change. That reminds me, I should do a tip on why.

Oyster 565 Sailing Yacht Design and Layout

Oyster 565 Layout Design Configuration

The latest yacht in our G6 fleet, the sailing yacht design of the Oyster 565 is configurable to her owner’s needs and preferences. She has been designed for shorthanded family and couples sailing with safety and comfort in mind and is the perfect size to sail comfortably without professional crew.

This Oyster 565 is borne from 43 years of experience building over 120 Oyster 56 and Oyster 575 blue water sailing yachts. From long-distance liveaboard sailing to coastal family cruising, the Oyster 565 makes it all possible. What’s more, with contemporary interiors that can be modified to suit you, you’ll have your pick of joinery, leathers and fabrics to become your on-the-water home. Discover her possible configurations below.


We understand our owners’ visions to create to perfect yacht. That’s why the Oyster 565 can be built with a variety of different rig configurations and two possible deck plans.

A standard Oyster 565 sail plan for short-handed sailing includes in-mast furling and 105% blade headsail, allowing for easy manoeuvring and sail-handling wherever you are in the world, from relaxed cruising to a global circumnavigation, such as in the  Oyster World Rally .

There is also the option to configure the yacht with a ‘sports pack’ for performance cruising, optimising your Oyster 565 for fast long-distance cruising or sailing events such as the Oyster Regatta.

Keel Options

The Oyster 565’s twin rudder hull form can be combined with a supershoal centreboard for safe shallow-water sailing.

There is an also option for an extended transom which provides large and open aft-deck space for entertaining. This also creates greater storage space ideal for long-distance blue water sailing.

The sailing yacht design of the Oyster 565 can also be customised with a large hydraulic bathing platform, providing quick and easy access to the water when the yacht is at anchor.


The Oyster 565 is available with two personalized layouts designed to suit your preferences tailored to your needs. Browse our typical sailing yacht design layouts below.

Layout 1 - Master Cabin Aft

Our traditional layout positions the master cabin aft, with the two guest cabins forward and a utility cabin which can be lengthened to include an additional berth.

In addition to the midship Seascape windows, which come as standard on all of our G6 range, you can choose to add Seascape windows into the master cabin.

Layout 2 - Master Cabin Forward

The Oyster 565 can be configured with the master cabin forward - a first in Oyster’s yacht design history. This format means the aft section can either stay as one large cabin or be adapted into two double cabins, depending on the number of guests you envisage to have on board with you.


Explore the Oyster 565 in more detail on the  Oyster 565 model page . Download the brochure, or contact our expert new-build team to learn how she could be the perfect fit for your family.

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Ilma Deck Plans



Enjoy drinks and light bites with views of the sea on a spacious terrace just steps above the Marina.

While at anchor, this go-to spot offers ample space for lounging as well as direct access to the sea for watersports.

Spacious yet intimate, the main restaurant features an ever-changing menu of dishes inspired by the diverse regions that Ilma explores.


Join friends at a private enclave within Tides for an exclusive dining experience, the perfect setting for celebratory dinners and other special events. 

Elegant and modern in design, Seta offers decadent tasting menus featuring exquisite cuisine deeply rooted in Italian traditions.

Ilma Deck 3


Enjoy a revitalizing spa treatment in a private room indoors or alfresco, along with a steam room, sauna, and full-service beauty and grooming services at The Barber and The Salon.

From sashimi to tempura to Wagyu beef dishes, Memorī offers contemporary interpretations of authentic Japanese cuisine. 


From indoor cycling to strength training to nutrition coaching, the integrated wellness programs at The Fitness Studio can be customized for each guest.

Ritz Kids is an educational and fun-filled programs that encourage kids to explore the world around them.

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This comfortable gathering place with a library transforms from a coffee bar to a cocktail lounge with live music at night and serves ready-made treats throughout the day.


Dine indoors or alfresco on Latin-inspired cuisine, complemented by craft beers, bold wines and an elevated tequila selection, in this elegant yet relaxed space evoking a chic beach club.


An extension of the Beach House, the aft Infinity Pool features comfortable loungers and views that stretch as far as the horizon.


Sip a fine cognac and enjoy an exceptional selection of hand-rolled cigars showcased in a state-of-the-art humidor.


Designer apparel, jewelry and leather goods entice shoppers, as do the collaborations with local artisans showcasing their work in select ports.

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Panoramic views of the sea and shore provide the perfect backdrop for relaxing, socializing and sunbathing.

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Ilma Deck 9

Just steps from the Main Pool, Mistral invites you to a celebration of timeless Mediterranean cuisine.


Relax on a comfortable chaise, sun yourself on the pool’s tanning ledge, or cool off with a dip in the water at The Pool Deck, an inviting space at any time of day.

Ilma Deck 10

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Specification and Deck Plans

NERO’s decks are connected by a sweeping staircase and the internal layout features multiple lounges, an art deco cocktail bar, formal dining room, a cinema, a beauty salon, state of the art gym and guest suites all inviting spaces to socialise and relax.

Technical Specifications:    

Length Overall: 90.1m (295.6ft)  

Beam: 12.0m (39.4ft)  

Draft: 4.9m (16ft)    

BUILDER: 2007, Corsair Yachts

REFIT: 2016, MB92, Barcelona and 2021 San Giorgio del Porto, Genoa

EXTERIOR DESIGN: IMT Marine Consultants  

INTERIOR DESIGN: Laura Pomponi    

MAIN ENGINES: 2 x 2,333hp Caterpillar  

STABILISERS: Zero speed stabilisers  

CRUISING SPEED: 14 knots    

GUEST ACCOMMODATION: 12 guests in 6 cabins, plus 1 convertible bedroom/massage treatment room/study

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Sun Bathing Area:

Relax and Take in the sunshine in one of NERO’s sunbathing areas.

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NERO’s expert captain and crew take the helm here.

Take a dip and relax in the Sun Deck Jacuzzi.

Focus on your wellness in NERO’s fully-equipped gym and fitness studio.

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Observation Lounge:

Relish the beautiful scenery along your itinerary with NERO.

Seating Area:

Relaxation is a priority. Take a load off in one of our many seating areas.

Sky Lounge:

Relax and have a cocktail in our comfortable sky lounge.

Beauty Salon:

Fully equipped treatment room with a calming ambience.

Office Area:

Have meetings, get some work done, or just get some privacy in NERO’s office area.

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Shaded Seating Area:

Get some shade and enjoy a snack or refreshing cocktail.

Dining Area:

Enjoy Michelin-quality food in NERO’s dining room.

Relax and take in the beauty of the superyacht in this lounge.

Master Suite:

The true focal point aboard the ship. These accommodations are opulent and luxurious.

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Guest Cabins:

NERO’s comfortable and elegant guest cabins are located on the lower deck.

Treat guests to NERO’s VIP Suite, our second most luxurious accommodation.

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The Majesty 175’s incredibly efficient hull also makes her accessible to many unchartered territories to a yacht of her size. Thanks to Yankee Delta Studio for completing her naval architecture, the Majesty 175 will have a draft of 2.05m. Her smart layout has been designed to accommodate 14 guests in 7 lavish staterooms and a crew of up to 10 members. The Majesty 175 will be powered by twin MTU 2,012hp engines.

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Built in 2021, the MSC Cruises MSC Seashore cruise ship weighs 169K tons and has 2270 staterooms for up to 5448 passengers served by 1648 crew . There are 19 passenger decks, 11 with cabins. You can expect a space ratio of 31 gross tons per passenger on this ship. On this page are the current deck plans for MSC Seashore showing deck plan layouts, public venues and all the types of cabins including pictures and videos.

MSC Seashore ship profile picture

MSC Cruises MSC Seashore




Yacht Club Owner Suite diagram

Floor Diagram Yacht Club Owner

Sleeps up to: 4 2 Cabins Cabin: 1054 sqft (99 m 2 ) Balcony: 269 sqft (25 m 2 )

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More Info [+/-]

Deck locations, stateroom cabin features, stateroom cabin perks, yacht club royal suite.

Yacht Club Royal Suite diagram

Floor Diagram Royal Suite

Sleeps up to: 4 2 Cabins Cabin: 614 sqft (58 m 2 ) Balcony: 355 sqft (33 m 2 )

More diagrams of this cabin type

Yacht-Club-Royal diagram


Yacht Club Deluxe Suite diagram

Floor Diagram Deluxe Suite YCP

Sleeps up to: 5 107 Cabins Cabin: 269 sqft (25 m 2 ) Balcony: 86 sqft (8 m 2 ) * Size may vary, see details below.

 Accessible Info [+/-]

Important size information.

Yacht-Club-Deluxe diagram


Yacht Club Inside Suite diagram

Floor Diagram Yacht Club Inside

Sleeps up to: 2 20 Cabins Cabin: 182 sqft (17 m 2 )

Yacht-Club-Interior diagram


Grand Suite diagram

Floor Diagram Two Bedroom Grand Suite SD

Sleeps up to: 6 12 Cabins Cabin: 344 sqft (32 m 2 ) Balcony: 95 sqft (9 m 2 ) * Size may vary, see details below.

Grand-Suite diagram


Suite with Whirlpool Bath diagram

Floor Diagram Whirlpool Suite

Sleeps up to: 5 28 Cabins Cabin: 296 sqft (28 m 2 ) Balcony: 75 sqft (7 m 2 ) * Size may vary, see details below.

Seaside-Suite diagram


Balcony Suite diagram

Floor Diagram Category SLT

Sleeps up to: 4 55 Cabins Cabin: 178 sqft (17 m 2 ) Balcony: 80 sqft (8 m 2 ) * Size may vary, see details below.

Balcony-Suite diagram

Floor Diagram Balcony

Sleeps up to: 4 1425 Cabins Cabin: 178 sqft (17 m 2 ) Balcony: 48 sqft (5 m 2 ) * Size may vary, see details below.

Balcony diagram

Floor Diagram Oceanview

Sleeps up to: 4 100 Cabins Cabin: 183 sqft (17 m 2 )

Oceanview diagram

Floor Diagram Inside Cabin

Sleeps up to: 5 519 Cabins Cabin: 150 sqft (14 m 2 ) * Size may vary, see details below.

Interior diagram

MSC Seashore Deck Page Menu

Click deck pictures to go to individual cruise deck plan pages where you can see all the public areas, venues and stateroom cabins categories for each deck.

MSC Seashore Quick Stats

Big picture msc seashore decks.

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MSC Seashore Links

  • PDF of all the decks
  • PDF (choose your own decks)
  • MSC Seashore DECK DRAG
  • MSC Seashore Cabin Check


CRUISEDECKPLANS.COM Use the input buttons above to go to the main page for a Cruise Ship or Cruise Line.

Frank Russell Design

R/c and model yacht design, plans, boats, sails..

I have been a designer of model and radio yachts since 1968. Boats been built from my plans now number in the hundreds both from both home and production builders. Many of my designs have won State and National Championships in Australia and overseas. New designs are added periodically and occasionally I do receive requests for specific designs. I also from time to time produce free plans.

Most of my older plans Pre 2000 will eventually be available as PDF files of the original large format drawing. The plans are located here:

A more complete list of my designs is here:

Plans are normally drawn on A4 and A3 format. Sections and appendages are normally drawn full size, 1:1. Some fin and bulb drawings are drawn to be printed in two halves and joined after printing. Arrangement drawings are 1:5 and sometimes 1:4.  

Make sure when printing that the “Scaling” or “Fit to Page” option is turned off in your printer setup when you print. I also have the “Print Preview” turned on as well so I can check if the page size is correct. All drawings are in either A4 or A3 size paper.

large yacht deck plans

Each drawing has a 100mm scale which will allow you to see if the drawings are the correct size.

The PDF drawings are usually emailed within a few hours of receiving your order from Paypal by email. DXF and DWG formats are available for most plans. Just ask and they also will be emailed. 

Printed Paper Plans are available and are printed from the same plan as the PDF. Please ask before ordering. There is usually an additional postage charge for Printed Paper Plans.


large yacht deck plans

The Erebus -10r shape is based on the Ellipsis IOM. The design has the  same LCB and waterline as the P6.1, so Phoenix 6 sail plans can be transferred over to the new hull. The hull is more rounded and has more reserve buoyancy above the waterline which will give the hull more lift over waves. The bow profile also has been lifted slightly for the same reason. Hull balance should be excellent. The deck is flat for simplicity and the plans show the same inbuilt mast ram setup I have been using successfully on both my A Class and 6 Metre designs. Any P6 sail plans used may need to be slightly altered. The Erebus sail plans are similar to the P6.1 but have been modified to suit the new deck design.

LOA 1650mm LWL 1200mm BOA 175mm  4.0kg ballast displacement 5.8kg Draught 630mm

After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file. Plan has A3, A4 sheets and a larger sheet with sections designed for laser cutting.

A printed paper plan can be supplied, postage extra.

Ellipsis M Version 2a Marblehead 2018-2024:    This design is based on the successful Ellipsis IOM concept, as is the second of  two sailing prototypes for the Equation M design. Of the 3 designs produced, this is favourite and was the only hull created by cutting the Ellipsis IOM in half and adding 128mm to the middle section and then re-fairing. The hull was then rescaled to the needed size and shape.

After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file.

If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or printed paper plan, postage extra.

large yacht deck plans

Equation Marblehead 2019:    This design is based on the successful Ellipsis IOM concept, that of correct volume distribution rather than fashionable features with the emphasis on simplicity This design is the result of two Sailing Marblehead prototypes, The Ellipsis 1c and Ellipsis 2a.

If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D  or printed paper plan, postage extra.

large yacht deck plans

Paperclip Mk3 IOM 2024 The hard chine version of the Ellipsis and Equinox IOM’s. It is intended to be built “Tape and Glue” from 1mm plywood sheets. The PDF and DXF drawings for theses hull and deck panels are included as are the sections if you would like to build the hull over frames.  The prototype built by Tony Goldsworthy seems to perform well.

The PDF Plan is on 7 A4 and 2 A3 sheets, The laser cut sheets are on 2 large sheets PDF and DXF.  The Plan is also available on  DXF, or DWG

large yacht deck plans

LOA: 938mm LWL: 915mm BOA: 190mm Disp: 5.1kg

PDF Plan emailed or Printed and posted on 6 A4 and A3 sheets

If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or 3D or printed paper plan, postage extra.

large yacht deck plans

Ellipsis 36 2023 is a 36 inch restricted class designs based on the Ellipsis IOM design. The 36r design was a request from a UK skipper for a lighter version of the 2017 design for both Radio and vane sailing. This design shuld be more suitable for lighter wind smooth water venues than the 2017.

LOA: 938mm LWL: 915mm BOA: 189mm Disp: 4.4kg

large yacht deck plans

Goth 36 2017 is an 36 inch restricted class design based on the Goth IOM design. The original request came from John Fisher in 2013 who wanted a very light 36r for vane sailing. This design is the third design in the series, which has progressively become heavier and more successful.

large yacht deck plans

New Equinox IOM   Plan : The Equinox is a variant of the Ellipsis… IOM.  The basic  design was produced initially as a 3D printed project that never eventuated for various reasons. Two prototypes were built including a 3D printed boat which was built by John Taylor in the UK.  The design incorporates several features of some of the newer IOM shapes including a fuller higher bow profile and wider stern. The design is well balanced and well behaved like the Ellipsis and should be as easy to plank from wood.

Hulls an components for this design are now available. See IOM COMPONENTS Page.

Please ask If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or 3D or printed paper plan, Postage extra.

large yacht deck plans

Phoenix 4 2020 10r Every new design presents a designer with options to consider and directions to go. After a ten year gap from the P3, all 10r’s had adopted the deep keel, light weight approach and although it did seem to work I after the P5 I though that the Phoenix 4 design although fast went in the wrong direction. I always have thought about what I should have done. So this is P4- 2020, with 2020 hindsight is the result.

LOA 1550mm LWL 1250mm BOA 200mm BWL 180mm, 4.2kg ballast on 600mm Draught and P1 to P3, Marblehead style sail plans on a flat deck.

She even drawn in the same software as the original.

After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file. Plan has A3, A4 sheets and a larger sheet with sections deasigned for laser cutting.

large yacht deck plans

Goth 36 is an 36 inch restricted class design based on the Goth IOM design. The original request came from John Fisher in 2013 who wanted a very light 36r for vane sailing. this design is the second in the series, heavier and more successful.   There is also a later 2017 version which will be published soon.

LOA: 938mm LWL: 899mm BOA: 190mm Disp: 4.4kg

If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or 3D or printed paper plan, just ask.

large yacht deck plans

UFO Mk2 – A development of the successful UFO with a heavier displacement and larger sail plan. Improved aft sections with the chine removed.

LOA: 1838mmLWL: 1250mm Disp: 15kg SA: 0.978763 m2

PDF Plan emailed or Printed and posted on 12 A3 sheets

large yacht deck plans

Phoenix 8 – 10r:  The Phoenix MK 8 is a larger more powerful boat than the last three Phoenix Mks. The P8 is a return to the simple design, No chines, no raised fore deck and Marblehead rig profiles as used from P1 to P3. This allows simpler light weight construction and fully open soft decks and shared rigs if you have a Marblehead.

LOA: 1650 mm LWL: 1240mm, BOA: 170mm, Draught: 630 – 680mm, Disp 5.7kg, SA: 1.00 m2

large yacht deck plans

The Free updated IOM mast and boom schematic along with FRD IOM Setup Guide

FRD IOM Setup Guide Mast and Booms combined Feb 2020

large yacht deck plans

Epsilon RG65 – 65 2019:    This design is based on the successful Ellipsis IOM concept, that of correct volume distribution rather than fashionable features with the emphasis on simplicity and efficiency.

Plans are PDF format or printed paper plan only. 3D hull and 2D bow and stern sections in DXF or DWG format are available on request.

large yacht deck plans

Cerberus – 6m Something more of a challenge from a designers and builder’s point of view. A class I have always admired. This is Cerberus, my first published Six Metre design. This is the result of several requests for a design in the class and also a desire on my part build a six Metre for fun sailing locally. There are a couple of boats that will be built in the UK to join the fleet there. This design is intended to excel in moderate winds and will outperform anything of similar size drought and displacement in Australian conditions. Plans are $30 pdf plans from my PLANS page with other formats available. This design may also be available for 3D printing at a later date.

LOA: 1515mm, LWL :1020mm, Displacement: 11.75kg,  SA:0.682019m2

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BLUEPRINT Yacht Layout & GA Plans

29.41m  /  96'6 | princess | 2011.

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Zoomable Deck Plans Instructions To view the yacht General Arrangement / Deck Plans in more detail use the Zoom Tools + / - buttons to 'zoom in' or ' zoom out'. To navigate around hold down you mouse and drag to look around or for touch use two fingers to pinch and drag. To zoom with the mousewheel hold CTRL/⌘ and use the mouse wheel or use two fingers to scroll on an Apple touch pad.

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    LOA 1550mm LWL 1250mm BOA 200mm BWL 180mm, 4.2kg ballast on 600mm Draught and P1 to P3, Marblehead style sail plans on a flat deck. She even drawn in the same software as the original. $30AUD. After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file. Plan has A3, A4 sheets and a larger sheet with sections deasigned for laser cutting.

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    Zoomable Deck Plans Instructions To view the yacht General Arrangement / Deck Plans in more detail use the Zoom Tools + / - buttons to 'zoom in' or ' zoom out'. To navigate around hold down you mouse and drag to look around or for touch use two fingers to pinch and drag.