sailboat mast climbing ladder

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How to Climb a Mast – Is a Mast Ladder Worth It?

One of the inevitable parts of owning a sailboat is climbing the mast. Some people enjoy this task. For them, it’s another part of the adventure. But I am not one of those people.

For me, there is only one task that is worse than going up the mast. I will spare you the gory details, but it may surprise you to learn that it does not involve the toilet. That’s right, climbing the mast is worse for me than dealing with toilet issues.

Mast climbing is made even worse due to my trust issues. While I usually have two or more people around to winch me up, I don’t trust any of them. Not my wife, not the weirdo from the next dock, and not the “professionals” I know who would be willing to help. 

So I set out to learn how to do it myself. I am by no means an expert, but I have successfully climbed up and back many times now on several boats. I can do it myself if needed, but I still like having a helper around to hear my screams and fetch me tools.

Table of Contents

Safety first, self-climbing gear — block and tackle climbers.

• ATN Mast Climber 

Hoistable Sailboat Mast Ladder

Mast climber sailboat options for every boat, mast ladder and mast climbing faqs, how to climb a mast with two people.

Before diving into how a solo sailor might climb up the rig, let’s look at how most people tackle the problem. The traditional sailor’s solution is the lowly bosun’s chair. 

The bosun’s chair is simply a board attached to wide nylon webbing that you can sit on. The webbing is attached to a halyard, and the halyard is winched up the mast by someone on deck. 

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Bosun’s chairs vary in features. Some are as simple as a board with straps. Others are much more secure and comfortable, with a back to keep your bum in place and straps around your thighs to ensure it does not slip. Of course, the more secure and comfortable it is, the easier it is to do projects with two hands. Many sailors like to use a climbing safety harness

It takes quite a lot of winching for the deckhand to get you to the top. It’s the only job on my sailboat that makes me wish for an electric winch, actually.

Going up the mast is all about planning and playing the “what if” game. For safety, please make sure everyone involved knows their roles. It’s advisable to put someone on the winch who is well-versed in cleat hitches, clutches, self-tailing or non-self-tailing, and whatever else you’ve got going on. Shouting about which line to secure where and how is the last thing you want to do as you swing 50 feet off the deck.

Always have a safety line. Yes, it increases your work and gives you one more thing to worry about. But it just might save your bacon. 

Don’t forget to plan out precisely what you’re going to be doing once you get where you’re going. Walk through every action you need to take. 

Make sure you take all of the tools you need—and might need—with you. I like to take as much as I can in a close-fitting messenger or sling bag. The only thing worse than mast climbing is doing it multiple times. Of course, you can have your helper send tools and parts up and down with a bucket, but it adds complexity to the operation and lots of potential to be aggravated.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Lucy, Matt, Chelsea (@boatlifelarks)

How to Climb a Mast Solo

All of this is well and good if you have a helper, but what if there is no one around? Solo mast climbing requires even more planning out and thinking. The same rules apply, but now you’ve got to figure out how to get to the top without anyone else’s help.

A safety line is essential even with these options, so plan accordingly.

The top ways for a solo sailboat mast climber to accomplish the task are listed below.

• Block and tackle self-climbers
• Climbing ascenders, like the ATN Mast Climber
• Fixed mast steps
• Hoistable sailboat mast ladders

Professional riggers have been going up masts by themselves for a long time, so it’s no wonder that they’d have some pretty good systems worked out. While some depend on a ground-side helper to winch them up, many prefer the freedom of using a custom-made block and tackle setup. 

If you want to go this route, you’ll want to be very good with rope handling and marlinspike seamanship. You’ll also need to invest in some nice hardware. Most sailing stuff comes marked “not for human climbing.”

Most of these setups attach to the boat’s halyard. You then hoist one end of the setup to the top of the mast, and the other end is attached to your bosun’s chair at deck level. The bitter end is with the chair, and it includes a jammer or stopper. There’s enough purchase in the system to make hoisting yourself up a relatively simple maneuver. 

These systems can’t get you right up to the top of the mast, but this is a weak point for most climbers.

ATN Mast Climber

A slightly slicker version of the same idea is the ATN Mast Climber . This gadget is pulled right from the rock climbing world. Out of the box, you need no other rigging or parts to make it work. 

Instead of hoisting anything up, the Mast Climber attaches onto an existing static line. Tie a halyard to the deck, and winch a bit to get the line taut. The Mast Climber then attaches to that line for the climb up. It’s easiest if the line isn’t perfectly vertical. I like to attach mine to the coachroof handrails. Being able to attach it anywhere on deck means you can position yourself to best reach whatever you need to work on.

The Mast Climber has two parts: the bosun’s chair climbing harness and the foot straps. Each attaches to your mast line with the climbing equivalent of a rope clutch. With a squeeze, they let you move freely up the rope. But once you release your grip, your weight jams them locked onto the line. 

It takes a little practice to use the Mast Climber, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll be going up in no time. To my surprise, coming down is actually a little more challenging because it requires different timing and spacing than going up does. One tip–always wear sturdy shoes and gloves.

The no-brainer solution for salty bluewater solo sailors is to install mast steps. These fixed metal steps attach to each side of the mast and allow you to climb up just like a regular ladder. 

The steps are small, and you’ll need a safety line as well. But they do enable you to climb up the mast any time without having to get more equipment or worry too much about it. And short of falling off, they’re better fool-proof and easy to use. 

Unfortunately, they are always there – and not exactly pretty. It’s a lot of hardware on your mast, which increases weight and windage aloft. From the installation side, putting them on is a big and expensive project that requires drilling many holes in your beautiful aluminum spar.

You might opt to install only a few steps to help you with other climbing systems. For example, many sailors install a pair or two at the masthead. Then when they arrive with their bosun’s chair or a self-climber, they have something solid to stand on. If the steps are positioned high enough, they’ll even enable you to work on the masthead.

A mast ladder is a hoistable ladder made of webbing. It goes up on the mast on your halyard and attaches into the mast track just like your mainsail—with slides.

Recovery Marine

• 50 Foot Mast Ladder
• Steps Double Reinforced
• Easy to Use Mast Ladder
• Man Overboard Ladder

Kinleven Marine Mast Ladder

This is probably the nicest hoistable mast ladder on the market. It’s made-to-order for your vessel, so you’ll have to supply a few measurements from your boat to get it built just right. 

The best feature is the ladder’s rungs, which are made from sturdy and strong plastic. This gives the ladder the most solid feel of any available options. It’s like climbing a conventional ladder, more or less.

It’s also extremely stable because it is mounted on slides that match your mast track. Unfortunately, you will have to remove your mainsail to load it into the track. That’s a pain but shouldn’t take more than a few minutes. 

One of the best mast ladder sailboat owners can choose, the Mast Mate is simple and easy. Where the Kinleyen is a beautiful unit, it is custom made to fit your boat. Some sailors might favor a unit they can use on any boat, and the Mast Mate is just what the ship’s doctor ordered.

The disadvantage of webbing ladders like the Mast Mate is that the steps are made of webbing, too. That can make it hard to get a good foothold, and it’s far from comfortable. However, it does mean that the ladder folds up into a small and light package for storage.

Like the Kinleven, the Mast Made uses mast slides to keep the ladder in place. You might have to sew your own on if the maker doesn’t supply them.

Unless your boat has a mast small enough to put up and down quickly, the day will come when you need to climb it. It’s best to practice and have the gear onboard. That way, you can tackle the task and get back to sailing.

What is a mast ladder?

A mast ladder is one method to climb the mast of a sailboat for maintenance. Sailors often need to climb the mast to inspect the rigging, replace light bulbs, service wind instruments, or free tangled lines. 

Mast ladders are made of webbing and collapse for easy storage. When you want to use it, remove your mainsail from the mast track, and insert the slides from the ladder. Hoist the ladder with your main halyard, securing the bottom and tightening the line. Use a second halyard as a safety line if you lose your footing.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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How to build a mast ladder by yourself to climb solo to the top of the mast

Greetings sailors,

Today we are going to see how to make a mast ladder to be able to comfortably climb the mast of our boats for about 50 euros and saving us more than 800.

This will even allow you to climb comfortably and quickly alone.

Climbing the mast of our sailboats is a necessity that we can have with certain frequency and that is not without difficulty.

Either to check the rigging, do maintenance of the wind equipment, antennas, and other instruments that rest on the top of it, or simply to install a new gadget that arises from the ideas that we propose in this blog, having the possibility to climb the mast comfortably is something very positive.

There are multiple methods to get on it, especially with the help of another person.

The most common: that they hoist you with the main halyard as if they were hoisting the sail, but it is still hard work for you, and for the person, you have committed to help you.

When it comes to climbing without help, the options are more limited and almost all of them involve using climbing techniques to climb with blockers through one of the halyards, even more arduous work if possible.

But obviously there are some very comfortable techniques that are usually the most used by sailors who live in their own sailboats, such as, for example, putting steps to the mast.

Either they are fixed, made with aluminum sheet and riveted along the mast, or folding riveted all over the mast (many holes have to be made) and at a very significant cost (+ 25 euros per step). Even both methods have their aesthetic problems, weakening the pole with so many holes and multiplying the possibility of damaging a halyard that has a tendency to get stuck in them.

What we are going to do is something intermediate between these options, we are going to build a ladder that we will raise as if it were the mainsail, we will tighten it so that it remains well attached to the mast and that will allow us to climb comfortably both with assistance and in solitary. But always securing us by an additional means. This is very important: w hen climbing the mast we must never rely solely on a single method or anchor point.

So let’s get to it ..

For this project we will need to acquire a series of material that will require an investment of about 50 euros for a ladder of just over 12 meters long, taking into account that a ladder of the same length already made costs over 400 euros, it will be a very economical project …

A roll of good quality sewing thread that is suitable for use in a sewing machine, in my case I have bought this and I use it a lot in all kinds of repairs on the boat:

You have it available on amazon https://amzn.to/3tHI2FN

A roll of polypropylene strap 25mm wide and 50 meters long, like the one used in backpack straps, which will be the basis of our scale. I bought this for 15 euros here on amazon :

https://amzn.to/2LqCqy8

And finally to make the steps we are going to use a 20mm thick round aluminum tube. 20mm is the ideal thickness, below this thickness it can be bend with your weight (I say this from experience with the 15mm one), so I would recommend at least 20mm.

In our case, we bought 8 meters to make 24 33cm steps for our 12m scale in a DIY store, and we spent about 27 euros. The tube should not be difficult to find at any DIY store, you went to buy it at bricomart.

https://www.bricomart.es/tubo-redondo-aluminio-anodizado-20-x-1-mm-1-m.html?___store=default

Apart from the material itself that you will need to make the ladder, you must have some skills and tools, mainly: metal saw, drill, drill bits, some sewing needles, a sewing machine and the ability to use it.

Do not be scared with the sewing machine if you do not already have it. Having a sewing machine, if you have a boat, will save you a lot of money and for this mission the knowledge you will need is very little, because you only have to make very long straight seams.

I bought a very cheap sewing machine on Amazon ( https://amzn.to/3cNUBJj ) for less than 50 euros and I am learning with it. I have done this project and some other repairs on the boat .. They also say that the LIDL sewing machine works very well, ..

Well, let’s get to work, the time has come to start.

The first thing we will do is fold the strap in half and sew the two halves together with two seams along the entire tape. This is where you will quickly acquire skill with the sewing machine. You can see the process in detail in the video of this post.

The objective of these two seams is to make the strap twice as thick and at the same time have the opportunity to insert the steps between the two already sewn straps.

In order to determine in which position each of the steps will go, we will fold the strap in half again and there we will mark the position of the first step, 60 centimeters from the fold, and the rest of the steps, which will be 40 cm , these being the marks that we have to make by measuring on the folded strap (so we will mark both halves at the same time).

Once we have the strap ready, we are going to prepare the steps. From the aluminum tube that we have bought, we will cut smaller pieces, 33 cm, so from each meter of tube, we can take 3 steps.

Once the steps are cut, we are going to make a hole for each one on each side, which will help us to better sew them to the straps and prevent them from moving transversely.

And once we have everything prepared, it’s time to sew the steps. The operation is going to be very simple. In the position that we have marked on the tapes for each step, we will open the seam that we made by machine at that point a little, enough to be able to insert the corresponding end of the step between the tapes, and then, by hand, we will sew over and below the step (at least three passes below and two above), using the hole to pass from one side to the other, with which we will be able to fix the steps in their position.

We will repeat the operation for each end of the step and in the same way for each step, checking that the alignment is correct (if you marked the tapes correctly, the alignment will be adequate).

So, with patience, and while we watch something on television (I had time to watch two movies on Netflix while sewing the steps), we will have our scale finished.

The detail of sewing the fold of the upper end of the scale is very important, so that it does not slip if we step on one end or another of the steps.

So after a lot of effort you will have something like this:

And finally it’s time to go up

It is very important not to rely solely on the ladder .. it is very dangerous .. whenever you climb the mast you have to be secured to at least two different systems ..

So take a climbing harness or similar and with a blocker or with a Prusik knot, secure yourself to the other halyard while you go up, or if you have help … tie yourself to the halyard and have a friend assure you from the corresponding winch ( in the video you have more details on how to do it ).

As for self-belay … a blocker is an instrument that only runs in one direction on the rope, the low-cost version of it is a Prusik knot … It can be easily moved by hand, but if you hang onto it, it blocks in front of the rope preventing you from falling.

For the climb you can also put a strap around the mast secured to your harness to ensure that you do not separate too much from it or the ladder.

The descent is a bit more complicated by self-belaying, but you can use a climbing eight or another type of brake and rappelling techniques to be sure or the same Prusik knot, lowering it with your hand as you go down.

But seriously … do not skimp on making sure you are safe … always secure you at least two points and if you can three, then better.

Conclusions

The scale is magnificent to climb: with your hands around the mast and the blocker can climb just alone without any problem … the worst thing is the possibility that it will separate from the mast if you hang on it so it is very important to tension well the lower end of the same so that it always works in tension and remains close to the mast … or better yet, secure it to the mast while climbing or through the mainsail skates, putting a skate every four steps, or some ropes through the steps below the crosspieces, something like this:

In that case, we will hoist it like the mainsail and it will stay well attached to the mast all the time, although to hoist it you have to remove the mainsail from the rail, which makes it a bit messier.

As for its construction … Well, once I have finished it, I see it as having been worth it … but at least 5 hours of work await you ahead, so if you are not very skilled and you can afford it, you can also consider buying one already made ..

Of course, prepare to pay around 900 euros, for something you can do yourself for 50.

Kinlevenmarine makes a fabulous one, as well as very expensive .. https://kinlevenmarine.com/shop/yacht-mast-ladder/ but there is no denying that she looks fabulous.

I am very happy with the work I have done and I am sure that I will put it to good use … and surely you too if you follow my channel and start putting more inventions on the masthead of your boat …

How To: Sailboat Mast Climbing Guide

Last Updated by

June 15, 2022

Climbing your sailboat mast can be an easy and enjoyable activity. With the right equipment and information you will successfully be able to access all exterior parts of your mast. In this guide, I will teach you how to climb your mast with confidence. As with so many activities on a boat, safety must be your top priority when climbing your mast.

Regardless of your crew situation, the equipment necessary to safely climb your mast is basically the same: two halyards, a bosun's chair, and some form of harness. You can be hoisted by crew or ascend using an ascension device. The particular equipment you choose is up to your preference and budget.

Sailors die every year from improper climbing techniques. By doing your due diligence, you will be ready to safely climb your mast. Ascending your mast is not the time for cursory preparation, so you must double up on all safety equipment. Redundancy is key. Don't put yourself in a position where a single failure of equipment could mean your death.

I have been up my sailboat mast half a dozen times and have never felt unsafe or afraid while aloft. By always following thorough safety precautions and having solid communication with my crew, I actually enjoy going up the mast. It gives me perspective of my vessel and the surrounding area that is normally out of view. I hope this guide helps you enjoy your first time climbing your sailboat mast, as well.

I am not an expert on climbing sailboat masts. I do not know the condition or quality of your equipment. It is your responsibility to ensure your safety and the safety of your crew. This is solely a guide to help you feel better informed on this topic.

Table of contents

The Crewed Climber

The most basic way to climb a mast is to have a crew member crank you up using a winch. This method requires you to have a crew member on board with the brawn and willingness to do that job. If you are lucky enough to have a beefy, willing crew member then this section is for you.

Primary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

• Bosun's Chair
• Main Halyard

Your primary safety equipment will consist of a bosun's chair  (or equivalent) connected to a halyard. Ideally the halyard will be one that does not have a free-standing block at the top of the mast. Your main halyard will likely be your best option for your primary line.

Feed your primary line through your bosun's chairs double d-rings and secure using a bowline knot. Tying your halyard to your bosun's chair will eliminate possible failure at the halyard shackle.

Once you have tied your primary line to your bosun's chair using a bowline knot, clip the halyard shackle to the d-rings as a redundant safety measure.

Prior to using your bosun's chair, be sure to read the instruction manual for your particular model so that you are properly secured within the chair.

Secondary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

• Secondary line

On my sailboat, my husband and I have climbing harnesses that we use as backup to our bosun's chair. A foul weather harness will work for this application as well.

Put on the harness prior to getting into the bosun's chair. Just as with the primary line, use a bowline knot to secure the second halyard to your harness. On my sailboat, I use the spinnaker halyard as my secondary line. You may have a line better suited for the job such as a removable topping lift.

Which Winch?

Now that you have your primary and secondary gear set up, it's time to deal with the working end of your primary and secondary lines.

Due to the variation in block, winch, and cleat locations from boat to boat, it is difficult to give exact directions for how to set up your lines. On board my vessel we use the main halyard as our primary line. The main halyard runs out of our lower mast, through several blocks and back to our cockpit. We run the primary line back to our starboard jib sheet winch because it is self-tailing and has two speeds. Our secondary line runs back to the port jib sheet winch.

In this method it is necessary for both winches to be self-tailing.

Whichever line you choose to use as your primary line, you will need to find as unobstructed a path as possible for that line to join with your winch. Use blocks as needed to create a chafe-free path for your primary.

Every time I have climbed our mast, my husband has been below at the winch. Even though we use a winch that is self tailing, whenever possible we have a friend tailing the primary line. This additional safety precaution prevents line slippage and a possible accident.

The Hoisting Begins

You now have your harness on with your secondary line attached and you are in the bosun's chair with the primary line attached. It's time to test the system's strength. First, have your winch handler take out any slack in the primary line while you stand with knees bent at the mast base. Have your mate cleat off the primary line. Then, test the strength of it all by bouncing a few times in the bosun's chair.

It might seem silly bouncing around in the bosun's chair just above the deck, but it sure makes me feel better knowing that I have already put more stress on the system than I will at any other point during my climb.

Feeling confident that all systems are go, your crew member will begin cranking on the winch from the cockpit. Being raised up the mast can take a while. Be sure to wear shoes and gloves so that if you decide to assist in your ascension, you don't end up with paint slivers in your hands and feet.

Your crew member will crank you up a few feet at a time or perhaps a few inches at a time, depending on their vigor. Every time they pause on the primary winch, they will pull in slack on the secondary. They must secure the primary line prior to attending to the secondary. This will ensure that if your primary fails you will only drop a short distance onto your secondary line.

Once you have reached your working point on your mast, your crew member below will cleat off both lines. Your winch handler will surely feel like it's nap time but their job isn't over yet. While you're working, be sure your crew member stays attentive in case you realize you don't have the necessary tools for the job or you are ready to descend.

I have been at the top of my mast only to realize that I need a flat head instead of a Phillips, or electrical tape, or a multimeter. It's beyond frustrating to be at the top of the mast and realize that you forgot something or don't have what you need.

To save the arms of your cranking crewmember, bring a long piece of string in the pocket of your bosons chair. If you realize you need an additional tool, you can lower the string to your crew member and they will tie on the forgotten item for you to pull up. If you happen to be particularly forgetful, it would be clever to employ a canvas bag to receive the tools.

I have found that it's difficult to see the top of my mast while sitting in the bosun's chair even when it's fully raised. I remedy this by bringing a looped piece of webbing (a sling) which I connect with a carabiner to the top of my mast. I then step into the piece of webbing which raises me high enough to see the top of the mast .

The Fun Part

One of the most enjoyable parts of climbing the mast is coming back down. The work is done and now you get to enjoy a smooth, steady descent to deck level.

It's essential that your crew member below wear gloves for this part of the job. I recommend gloves for the entire job but certainly for this bit.

From the cockpit, your crew member will uncleat the secondary line and remove that line from it's winch. Your crew member will then take the line out of the self-tailing mechanism on the primary winch while maintaining a firm grip on the line. They will slowly let out the primary line while keeping three wraps on the winch. Continue slowly releasing line until all crew are deck side.

To aid in exiting the bosun's chair I recommend descending until you are sitting on deck. The extra slack will help you remove yourself from the bosun's chair as gracefully as possible.

The Crewless Climber

Knowing how to climb your mast independently is invaluable, even if you never sail solo. Lifting an adult using a winch can be difficult, time consuming, and tiring. By having the right equipment you can climb your mast with very little to no assistance.

Primary Safety Equipment (Solo)

There are many types of products on the market to help you climb the mast. There are ladders which utilize your mainsail mast track, webbing loops raised to the mast top using the main halyard, and permanently installed mast steps. Alternatively, there are devices which attach directly to the main halyard which allows you to climb the halyard. I'm going to refer to any device that is used to climb the halyard as an "ascension device".

Regardless of the ascension device you choose, these items are essential:

• Ascension Device
• 3 Climbing Carabiners
• 2 Foot Slings

Secondary Safety Equipment (Solo)

• Secondary Line
• 1 Climbing Carabiner

Sailboats are not all rigged the same. You may find that your spinnaker halyard is your only option for the secondary line. On some vessels, the topping lift will be the best option. You will need to determine which line works best for you.

Using The Ascension Device

The ladder style ascension devices are fairly self-explanatory. If you know how to climb a ladder, you're all set. So, I will not go into their use here. In this section, I will explain how to use a rock climbing ascension device to climb your mast.

This is an example of a rock climbing ascension device:

Beth lives on board her 1983 30ft S2 sailboat with her husband, 6 year-old son, and her two fur babies. She has been sailing and boating for most of her life. Beth has been blessed to experience cruising in the Great Lakes, the Bahamas, and in Alaska. She loves to travel and adores living on her tiny boat with her family.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How To Climb A Mast Solo And Short Handed

• June 1, 2022

Learn how to climb your mast solo or short handed and head aloft with confidence with this step by step expert guide from Pro Skipper and Tech Ed Fox Morgan

How to climb a mast solo: Step by step guide

If you’re here because you want to know how to climb a mast, then you are in the right place! The technique demonstrated in the following guide is tried and tested and used by the majority of professional sailors and expert Corinthian sailors too. This is for people climbing a mast where the halyard runs internally and passes out of the mast at the mast head via a mast head sheave or block. This technique is not intended for those climbing a wooden mast or where the halyard is mounted externally and passes via an external block. If you are unsure of any aspect of safety when doing any kind of work at height, please consult a local rigger.

It can feel quite lonely up a mast with no-one to spot you from below. But it’s also a really nice feeling to be able to get the job done.

Solo Mast Climbing Technique

• Wear appropriate clothing. We recommend close fitting clothing that wont snag on anything. Also protect your shins.
• Consider wearing body armour if going up the mast at sea. It’s very easy to be slammed against the mast and crack a rib, which will definitely spoil your day.
• Wear a helmet if you are in a rolling anchorage or underway. A BMX, kayak or dedicated climbing hard shell helmet is ideal.
• You should be fit enough to be able to lift your own weight with one leg in a foot strap and one arm on an ascender.

• Attach 2 halyards to the mast foot area.
• Attach prusik line to the halyard or line you are using as a backup safety.
• Attach Ascender and GriGri to the main working line/halyard.
• Clip on harness.
• Double check all carabiner gates are locked closed and nothing is cross loaded.

How to climb a mast now you have all the equipment in place

• Slide the ascender as high as you can while standing.
• Pull up on the lazy line to pull the GriGri/belay device as far up the line as you can, as high as it will go while you stand on deck.
• Sit back into your harness and watch the GriGri articulate (if you are using this device) and see it grip the line.
• Make sure your foot is in the footstrap.
• Slide the ascender as high as you are able to.
• Grab hold of the ascender handle and pull yourself up so that you are standing in the footstrap.
• Take in the slack on the GriGri/belay device pulling it up the line as high as possible, to meet the bottom of your ascender.
• Sit back down again. watch the GriGri articulate again and watch for any snags or anything that doesn’t look right.
• Slide the ascender upwards again as far as you can.
• Repeat this process to rappel as far as you want up the mast.

Remember to keep sliding your prusik line up as you progress. This is your backup if the main line fails.

Ascend at your own pace.

You will swing about a bit. You can use your spare non-footloop leg to help grip the mast and steady you from swinging about too much. A couple of quick draws can be handy for holding you in place while you stop to work.

Beware of the need to leave a small gap above the ascender to allow it to be released from the line. So don’t go hauling it upwards slamming it into the underside of your masthead overhang. You’ve been warned!

When ready to descend, double check all of your lines and carabiners.

• Sit back on your GriGri or belay device, ensuring it holds you without slipping and remove the ascender from the line.
• Close the ascender gate to avoid getting spiked and hang it from your harness.
• Wind up the foot strap, tuck that away. You don’t need the footstrap anymore but you also don’t want it to get snagged on anything on the way down.
• With one hand on the lazy line,  ease back on the GriGri lever or belay device with the other hand to gradually release the friction on the line you are sitting back on.
• Feed the lazy line to control your speed of descent. You will start to slide down the line.

REMEMBER to slide your prusik line down as you go!

Take it slowly and control your descent carefully. There’s a lot to get snagged on as you go back down the mast.

Use your legs to grip the mast if the boat is moving around a lot.

How to climb a mast double handed

You have a few options.

• A harness combined with bosun’s chair for a lengthy time up in the air or just a harness for a quick trip.
• I prefer a hard seat bosun’s chair so I can sit back in it for a rest when doing lengthy jobs, such as feeding lines or wires down the mast. A harness is secure but can easily nip off circulation to a leg when hanging around for a long time. Foot loops can also help to take pressure off or allow you to gain a little height above the mast head.
• Agree on hand signals for up and down winding.
• Have your co-skipper wind on one winch while you slide a prussic line up the second secure line. Alternatively they could wind up one line then take up slack on a second winch with the safety line, as both can be attached to your bosun’s chair or harness, but this means your crew mate will be running between lines and this runs the risk of mistakes, cross winching, or tangles or worse, accidental line release. A prusik on a static line attached to mast foot while you are winched up on another line is a much safer method for two people.
• For security when you are working aloft, make sure your co-skipper locks off that line on the winch to either a cleat or double back to create a locking turn. Don’t just rely on a clutch.
• When they ease you back down the line, remember to hold your prusik line and knot as you go. This will help to hold you steady but also allow you to stop your descent quickly if you need to.

How to climb a mast fully crewed

Use two lines, one per winch and you have a lead wincher for the main number one line and a second line tailer, taking up the slack on the safety line.

If you have enough crew, have someone as a designated spotter to relay messages to the prime wincher.

• If you are unsure of the safety and condition of the lines, make sure you have a safety backup or mouse a new line through if there’s doubt over the condition of the line you are using. This might not be possible if you have a broken halyard already and the reason you’re going up is ton put a new one in!
• Always go up with two lines.
• Always wear footwear.
• Use padding and head protection if there is a risk of you swinging about with the boat in motion.
• Tie your own knot to your bosun’s chair or harness if being winched. Do not rely on the shackle or sail crimp to secure you.
• Lanyard on/secure all tools
• Use a mobile phone with hands free set or a pair of handheld vhf radios on ships internal comms channel 15 or 17 on low power/1w. [Calling protocol would be: Boatname – Alpha (for one person, eg up the mast) Boatname – Bravo (for another person, eg on deck spotting)]
• Make sure your comms devices are securely attached and cannot fall.

Spot the little faces looking upwards from the cockpit area. Your crew mates will seem quite far away when you are high up in the rigging. Make sure you have adequate communication in place for safety.

The bigger the boat, the more important comms devices become. Pace out the length of your mast on land, let’s say that’s 25m or 85 feet away away, now face sideways and try talking to someone at that distance. Rig up your phones or vhf radio on hand free use. Make sure comms devices are secured and can’t fall.

Don’t forget to use your own judgement when following our advice, or use a professional. Here’s our full disclaimer.  

How to climb a mast: all the gear I used in the demonstration

For climbing a mast solo you will need:.

• a climbing harness
• an ascender
• a belay device
• 5 or 6 carabiners
• a personal sling/daisy chain/loop
• at least one foot strap
• one prussik loop (you can make this from a 2.5m piece of rope/cordage)
• total cost of kit used in demo approx: £288

For climbing a mast double handed or crewed:

• a climbing harness and/or bosun’s chair
• one prussik loop
• total cost approx: £98

DMM Women’s Vixen Harness

This is the harness I used in the video for how to climb a mast. It is designed for women. I’ve used it for about 8 years and it’s still in great condition. I bought the large size to fit over my foulies or larger clothes, but it is a little big when wearing just light form fitting clothes. Ideally I would get a smaller sized harness for that purpose. DMM make these for men too.

• 5 gear loops
• 345g (xs) – 410g (large)

Buy DMM  Women’s Vixen Harness

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence. Where indicated, items have been tested independently of manufacturers influence.

Petzl ascension ascender.

This is the ascender I use on my own climbing gear and can be seen in my demonstration on how to climb a mast. I use a left handed version because I am right hand dominant and it’s easier for me to slide the ascender up with my left hand while pulling up on the lazy line with my right hand.

• line size: 8mm – 13mm
• left or right handed versions

Price : £46.76  /  $87.07

Buy Petzl Ascension left handed from GoOutdoors.co.uk

Buy Petzl Ascension left or right from AlpineTrek.co.uk

Buy Petzl Ascension from Amazon.com

Petzl Gri Gri +

This belay device can be used with all single ropes (optimised for 8.9 to 10.5 mm diameter ropes) and is equipped with an assisted breaking function. Suitable for beginner mast climbers to expert riggers. Feed your line in the GriGri, close it, add your carabiner to hold it closed and attach to your harness and you’re good to go.

• line size: 8.9mm – 10.5mm
• auto-locking

Price: £90.86 /  $129.95

Buy GriGriplus from Decathlon

Buy GriGriplus from AlpineTrek

Buy GriGriplus from Amazon.com

Grivel Mega K6N Screw Lock Snap Hook

For belaying and rappelling. It is designed for use with both single and double ropes.

I use two of these in my solo mast climb gear. One is used from the bottom of the ascender to hold the footloop and personal lanyard and the other is used on the top of the ascender to work as a reduction turning point for the belay lazy line.

You need to be careful which way around your position this on your ascender to avoid your lazy line accidentally unscrewing it as you pull it through.

• 7000-series aluminum

Price: £8.99

Buy Grivel K4n Carabiner from Trek Inn

Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate Carabiner

Designed specifically for belaying, the GridLock isolates the belay loop behind its uniquely shaped gate, thereby keeping the carabiner in its proper orientation.

I use two of these carabiners, both from my harness. The anti-crossloading design is reassuring as the repeated loading and unloading of both the belay and ascender has a tendency to make standard carabiners rotate and there’s a high risk of crossloading when solo rappelling. They can be fiddly to get on and off but they add real peace of mind knowing how hard it is for these to cross load so you can just get on with climbing and dangling about up your mast.

• Anti cross load design

Buy Black Diamond Gridlock from GoOutdoors.co.uk

DMM –  Rhino Quicklock – Locking carabiner

For regular users of pulleys or GriGri like belay devices.

I use this carabiner on my prusik line. The horn stops the hitched on line sliding around the carabiner as it is repeatedly adjusted. The sprung loaded rotating gate release can be a bit of a fiddle to open but the advantage is that it can’t be accidentally unscrewed like the screw gate carabiners can.

• Anti cross load horn
• Quicklock gate

Price: £17.96

DMM Dyneema sling

Dyneema has several advantages over traditional nylon webbing – it’s incredibly light and strong, less susceptible to UV degradation and is more abrasion resistant. I use this sling as my personal lanyard between harness carabiner and the ascender. You need to find a sling that can be adjusted to your own personal reach length. I double this one over to give me the correct length.

• 11mm Dyneema tape
• Strength: 22kN

Price: £9.90 

Buy DMM Dyneema sling from GOOutdoors.co.uk

Beal Nylon Sling

A basic Nylon loop, ideal for use on a multitude of climbing uses, I personally use this as my footloop. I have two of them. They are cow-hitched onto the bottom of my ascender, one is tucked away and the other used for climbing. When I reach working height I use the second loop to stand up with both feet or to wrap one around the mast. It’s very handy to have two of these.

Price: £6.48 

Buy Beal Nylon Sling from GoOutdoors.co.uk

For more mast climbing gear you can have a look at our buyers guide

For a masterclass from pip hare on how to climb a mast safely at sea, you can read about that here.

Further reading on mast climbing methods and equipment

How to climb a mast safely at sea – masterclass with Pip Hare

Mast Climbing for short handed crews

7 mast climbing kits on test

12 Bosun’s chairs tested

What happens when you dismast in the antarctic

Enjoyed reading Climbing a mast – best climbing gear & practical guide?

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Sailboat Mast Ladder 50 Feet (15.2 m)

About this item.

• 50 Foot Mast Ladder, sailboat mast ladder
• Steps Double Reinforced
• Easy to Use Mast Ladder
• Man Overboard Ladder too

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Product information

Looking for specific info, product description.

Sooner or later, you have to go up the mast. Recovery Marine's Mast Ladder is an easy-climbing 50-foot alternating-step, flexible ladder made of two-inch (2-inch) wide nylon webbing with a sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds. And yet, it still easily packs into a compact bag. LENGTH: 50 feet ALTERNATING STEP LENGTH: 12 inches STRENGTH: Sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds STEPS: Double-reinforced with steps formed by two continuous parallel straps of webbing, one sewn to form the step, the other straight, and vice versa, over the length of the ladder. EASY-TO-USE: Climbing is easy CONVENIENT: Comes with its own bag, folds up into a packet, roughly the size of a three-inch-thick legal-sized paper pad BRIGHTLY COLORED: For easy viewing and use You will need to purchase the slides separately. Always use a safety harness in conjunction with ladder

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• Exploring Mast Climbing: Your Ultimate Guide

Mast climbing is an essential skill for sailors and yacht enthusiasts, allowing access to the top of the mast for maintenance, observation, or repairs. In this guide, we'll delve into the world of mast climbing, covering equipment like globe ladders, mast steps, and topclimbers, while also emphasizing safety and harness choices. Whether you're an experienced sailor or just getting started, this guide will help you navigate the heights .

Getting Started: Mast Climbing Essentials

Mast steps: your first rung to the sky.

Mast steps are the foundation of mast climbing. These specially designed steps or rungs are attached to the mast, providing a secure path upwards. Beginners will find mast steps a vital tool to ascend with confidence.

Globe Ladders and Mast Ladders for Yachts

Globe ladders and yacht-specific mast ladders are essential for sailors. These ladders are designed for stability and safety, making them perfect for accessing the top of the mast on various types of vessels.

Topclimber: Reaching New Heights

Topclimber, a versatile mast climbing system, offers an innovative approach to reaching the mast's peak. This easy-to-use system combines safety and efficiency, making it popular among sailors.

Climbing Chair and Sensible Harness Reviews

Comfort and safety are paramount when ascending the mast. Climbing chairs and well-reviewed sensible harnesses offer a secure and comfortable experience. Read reviews to find the right fit for your mast climbing adventures.

Sailboat Mast Climbing: Equipment and Steps

Sailboat mast ladder and climbing systems.

Sailboat mast ladders and climbing systems cater specifically to the unique needs of sailboat owners. These equipment options make ascending the mast on a sailboat a breeze.

Mast Rope Ladder and A  Rope  from the Top of a Mast

A rope ladder hanging from the top of the mast can serve various purposes. It's often used for hoisting sails and can be an essential tool in your sailing toolkit.

Safety First: Preventing Mast Climbing Accidents

Atn mast climber and defee mast ladder.

Stay informed about brands like ATN and Defee, known for their mast climbing products. Learn about their safety features to minimize the risk of accidents.

Mast Climbing Courses and Solutions

Safety is paramount when climbing masts. Mast climbing courses and solutions provide education and equipment designed to enhance your safety while ascending the mast.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

Yacht Mast Climbing: From Mast Manufacturers to Used Masts

Yacht mast manufacturers uk.

In the UK, yacht mast manufacturers offer high-quality mast options. Explore the variety available when considering a new mast.

Used Mast for Sale: A Budget-Friendly Option

If you're looking for a cost-effective solution, consider used masts for sale. You can find well-maintained masts that are ready for a second life.

Winch Up Mast and Mast Hoist System

Winches and mast hoist systems provide mechanical assistance, making it easier to ascend the mast. These systems are a valuable addition to any sailor's toolkit.

Mast climbing is a skill every sailor should master. Whether you're interested in yacht mast climbing, sailboat mast maintenance, or simply want to explore the top of the mast, the right equipment and safety measures are essential. Consider the choices mentioned in this guide, and remember, safety should always be your top priority when scaling new heights.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our  range of charter boats  and head to some of our favourite 

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How to climb the mast solo

There are several different solutions to help ease climbing aloft. some enable solo ascent, others lighten the load at the winch for the winder. sailing today tested five different systems.

With nearly 19m mast height on our Contest 42CS borrowed from Parkstone Bay Yachts , it was to be a test of the tester as much as the kit and proved a very pertinent point: however you ascend it is never easy and descent can be exhausting, too.

Topclimber 

The Topclimber was an early market entrant in 1994, borrowing from mountaineering technique with two ascender/descender rope clutches combined into a seated harness with foot straps. The principle is simple and clever. Attach the 10mm static line to a halyard, thread through the two clutches, then fix to a strong point on deck and tension it on a winch. The climber in the rigid-seated harness, with feet in straps, stands and slides the top clutch upwards, sits down, raises his/her knees and slides the lower clutch upwards. Repeat the cycle and up you go, bit by bit. Reverse the process to come down.

•  topclimber.nl
• ATN MastClimber

This features an open-sided rope clutch that fits over any halyard (claimed 6-16mm), doing away with need for a static line (although we would advise using a static line for safety reasons, and you can still use one with this).

Beyond rigging, MastClimber’s method follows exactly that of the Topclimber, but with a more structural and, in our experience, marginally less captive (when falling backward) body harness. We had the same gripe about the spiky fittings on the clutch levers.

• seateach.com

MastaClimba

• mastaclimba.com

SWI-TEC Mastlift

Swi-Tec offers a smart geared enclosed lifting system for unassisted ascending. Its drum shape and heavy mass made initial set-up fiddly and begged extra hands. Mid-assembly, you unreel a braked personal lifting line from the drum, then halyard-hoist the drum with its endless looped control handline to the top of the mast.

For safety two halyards are preferred, fastened with a bowline not a shackle. Climb into the harness or chair, attach the lifting line and start hand-over-handing the looped control line. You rise slowly and, despite the 10:1 gearing, quite painfully.

• swi-tec.com
• from c£916 (€1,10)

Kinleven ladder

It’s simple and well controlled, akin to tensioning chords in pleated curtains, gathering or releasing the glass-reinforced, 34cm-wide plastic steps with  red and green webbing. The steps have central mast track sliders to keep them in place, and you simply haul them to the masthead on a halyard.

• kinlevenmarine.com

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• Practical Boat Owner
• Digital edition

7 mast climbing kits on test

• January 30, 2017

Going aloft to the masthead can be tricky at the best of times on a calm day in a marina – and even more so at sea. In our November 2009 issue, Ben Meakins tested seven sets of mast climbing gear to see which worked best.

  I t must have been a wise man who once said that: ‘A fear of heights is illogical. A fear of falling, on the other hand, is prudent and evolutionary.’

Perhaps sailors should take note. Climbing the mast is seldom a popular task, but it’s a lucky sailor that never has to go up to fix an aerial, replace a bulb or even perform a visual inspection.

With the right equipment, however, it’s possible to go up and down a mast safely, and without too much exertion.

We looked at seven different sets of mast climbing equipment designed to help you get aloft, testing them on a blustery summer’s day on a Sigma 38 on the River Hamble. The wind increased to 30 knots during the day, making life aloft uncomfortable and somewhat dangerous, so we donned helmets to give us some protection while swinging around. It’s worth having one to hand if you ever think you might need to go up the mast while at sea.

Traditional methods

The conventional method of climbing the mast is to sit in a harness or bosun’s chair while the deck crew grind you to the top using a halyard and a winch. Harnesses are often favoured by racers: take a glance at the bow of any large racing yacht and chances are you’ll see the bowman sporting a climbing harness. They’re less comfortable than a bosun’s chair to spend time in aloft, but are more secure: unlike a chair you can’t fall out of a well-fitting harness. You can pick one up for as little as £30 from a climbing shop.

Cruisers tend to carefully choose their times to go aloft, so are content to use a bosun’s chair – after all, greater comfort means you can spend more time aloft getting the job done before your legs go numb. You can pick one up from any chandlery for anywhere between £30 and £130. Look for one with a solid seat and good pockets and, if you can, try them on in the shop – anything that feels remotely uncomfortable on the ground will be multiplied a hundredfold when aloft, so this is not an area for compromise.

The bosun’s chair used in this feature, a SwissTech from BlueWater supplies, had all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a top-end chair, and felt secure and comfortable for working aloft for extended periods.

What we tested

Conventional methods of hoisting a crewman to the masthead have worked well for centuries, but there are now several more modern methods designed to reduce the effort needed by the deck crew – some even to the point of permitting mast climbing single-handed. All are teamed with a harness or bosun’s chair to support the weight of the climber.

LADDERS:   We’ve all seen blue-water cruisers with their fixed or folding mast-steps riveted to the mast, but mast steps aren’t for everyone: they’re a snag hazard, they add weight and windage and involve drilling lots of holes in the mast. A temporary ladder is the answer to overcome these issues, and with modern materials these can be lightweight and small enough to be stowed on the most space-impoverished yacht.

Never climb mast steps or a temporary ladder unassisted. It’s safest to use a harness, with a crew member taking up the slack in a halyard as a fail-safe should you slip from the ladder.

MASTHEAD WINCH:  Like a chain hoist found in warehouses and motor service stations, the MastLift comprises a 10:1 reduction gearbox operated by an endless line. You simply hoist it up the mast on a halyard (two are recommended for security), attach yourself to its integral Dyneema halyard and pull on the endless line – one way to ascend, and the other to descend.

ASCENDERS: Climbers have been using ascenders for many years. Traditionally, a prusik hitch would be tied onto a static line to provide a foot or hand-hold, taking advantage of this knot’s ability to slide easily along a rope or bar when not under load but lock solid as soon as the climber’s weight is applied to it.

We tried out two variations on the theme, using a 10mm genoa sheet as our static line, hoisted to the masthead on the main halyard and stretched tight.

MASTHEAD HARNESS  Finally, we tried out a ‘mast-top’ harness. This attaches to a bosun’s chair and allows you to stand up and see above the halyard exit.

* Prices correct at the time of going to press, November 2009

FibreLight Ladder

PRICE*: 5m £101, 10m £169, 15m £240, 20m £311

Contact: www.bluewatersupplies.com

T he FibreLight ladder, as used by the SAS, is constructed from webbing with carbon fibre rungs, and packed down into a bag only 26 x 15 x 15cm in size. We found it easy to climb, as long as it was hauled tight with two downhauls – if these were too loose, it swung around significantly.

It proved easiest to climb ‘side-on’ – alternating your feet from one side to the other – rather than climbing up one face. Descending was hard work, and in the significant gusts on the day, the ladder blew around a lot, despite the best efforts of our downhauls. One advantage of this type of simple, light ladder is that you could use it with the mainsail hoisted, but it would be tricky to climb in any kind of sea.

SwissTech Mast Ladder

PRICE*: 10m £431;  2m extension piece £109

T his ladder has aluminium rungs, joined at the edges by webbing straps. Each rung slides into the mainsail track in the mast, and is held steady by two adjustable guide-rollers. It took us some time to set the ladder up for our mast, but you should only need to do this once, and from then on it takes only minutes to hoist.

As with the flexible ladder, the Mast Ladder needed two tight downhauls to keep it rigid and in line. It was easy to climb, although it moved around a little with each step. The curved aft face of our Sigma’s mast may have contributed to this. Descending was hard work, but the steps were easy to find – and the whole team found them to be well spaced.

Mast Mount/Mast Mate

PRICES*: 27ft $240 (£146), 35ft $300 (£183),  42ft $357 (£218)

Contact: www.mastmate.com

T his type of webbing ladder has been available in a number of guises for many years. We tried a Mast Mount, which is no longer produced, but an almost identical product, the Mast Mate, is still available from the USA.

Consisting of a series of webbing loops, held on to the mast by mainsail-type sliders, the Mast Mount was easy to ascend and descend. An extra layer of stiff webbing was sewn into the base of each loop, keeping each step open – and the team liked the ‘alternating’ steps, which made climbing easy. With the halyard pulled taut against a tight downhaul, it felt the most secure and safe of all the ladders tested.

MASTHEAD WINCH

PRICES*: 13m halyard £1,014;  25m halyard £1,188 

Contact: www.bluewatersupplies.com 

H oisting the MastLift was somewhat nerve-racking, and in any sea it would sway around a lot. We used the optional neoprene cover to prevent damage to either the mast or the unit itself, and SwissTech also provide a loop of ‘parrel balls’ which loop around a furled jib to help with guiding the unit up. We found that keeping tension on the Dyneema halyard as a downhaul prevented any major movement.

Going up was a simple matter, if tough on the arms, but you can stop at any time for a rest. It felt secure at all times, with a reassuring ‘clicking’ from the ratchet on the way up. Going down was even easier, although the gear change from ‘up’ to ‘down’ took a little getting used to. We used it on a breezy day, and soon realised that it was important not to let go of the endless line, which trailed off to leeward, leaving me stranded until a handy lull dropped the line back into my lap. You could also use the MastLift attached to the end of the boom as a hoist for outboard engines and MOBs – a shorter, 4m endless line is available for this purpose. Overall it was easy to use, and felt secure and safe. It’s not cheap, and would be hard to deploy at sea, but is good for solo ascents.

Petzl ascender

PRICE*: Around £30 from climbing shops

Contact: www.petzl.com

T he Petzl ascender is a cheap and simple piece of climbing equipment that works like a rope clutch in that it can slide upwards, but jams when pulled down.  For the test we used a single ascender with a foot loop made from a heavy-duty sail tie and a harness on a long strop.

You sit in the harness, with your weight taken on a halyard, and slide the ascender up the static line. Next, stand up in the foot loop while a crewman takes up the slack in the halyard, and repeat the process. With a second ascender you could climb the line unassisted, as you can with the TopClimber (see right). We found we needed a long strop between the ascender and the harness to allow enough movement, and that having two foot loops, which were attached loosely to the static line, made straightening your legs easier. An ascender has the advantage that it will act as a brake if you let go – but you must take care if taking your weight off the ascender that it won’t capsize.

PRICE*: £224.95

Contact: www.yachtstyle.co.uk

The TopClimber is a ready-made version of a double-ascender system. You sit in its bosun’s chair, and straighten your legs. This releases the strain on the top rope clutch, which can be slid upwards. You sit down and do the same for the lower clutch, before repeating the process and ascending the line. It took some practice before the process felt natural, but once mastered it was a quick, secure method of climbing the rig. The instructions provided were on the brief side, however, and we found it was well worth spending 5 or 10 minutes getting familiar with the equipment before trying it out for real. Coming down the process is reversed, and we found that the important thing was to take small steps. The chair felt comfortable and one tester even commented: ‘It was so good I didn’t know I had it on!’ The TopClimber also has the advantage that you can stand in the foot loops once at the masthead to gain access to navigation lights and aerials which live above the halyard exit.

MASTHEAD HARNESS

Masthead harness .

PRICE*: £108

Contact:  www.bluewatersupplies.com

Used in conjunction with our bosun’s chair as a step to allow you to reach the masthead, we found this device got in the way somewhat on the way up and we had to take care to ensure the chair itself did not slip down when we stood up. As long as you take these into account, it’s a good solution to the problem of getting access to fittings above the halyard exit.

PBO verdict

There’s nothing fundamentally wrong with the classic bosun’s chair – it does the job and does it well. The problem is that it can be hard work for a crew to wind someone to the masthead, and this is where the newer methods come into their own.

The ascender technique is a great way of climbing the mast without relying on crew to put in the effort, and was our team’s preferred method. Each of the two ascender techniques we tried took a little practice, but once mastered they were quick and easy. One of our test team, who had previously done some rock climbing, mastered it quickly – demonstrating the value of proper training with any equipment. The TopClimber might be a more expensive option, but it felt safer, more secure and comfortable than our cobbled-together Petzl system.

Ladders are certainly a viable way of climbing the rig, but they are tiring and it’s important you wear a harness and halyard as any movement of the boat makes it hard to hang on. Of the three we tested, the Mast Mount felt the most secure and was the easiest to climb, with the least movement. The FibreLight Ladder is compact but was tiring to climb, while the SwissTech Mast Ladder felt secure and safe, but could conceivably damage the mast if not properly adjusted beforehand.

The MastLift winch was a seriously impressive piece of kit – but had a price tag to match.

Safety first

• Mind your head! Don’t stand near the base of the mast while there’s a crewman aloft – a tool or any other object dropped from a height could cause serious injury.
• Tie your own bowline. It’s tradition that whoever is heading aloft ties their own knot: that way there’s no one else to blame if it’s not done properly. Never use a snapshackle to take the load – instead, tie a bowline and use the shackle to secure the tail.
• Use a safety line. It’s worth having a second halyard attached, with a crewman taking up the slack, as a backup.

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Check the masthead

by binocular from deck level!

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When we first launched our Leisure 27, Windrush, we noticed that the anemometer cups were missing. A few weeks later…

Call us on: +44 (0)1264 532 035 or Request a Callback

About the Kinleven Mast Ladder

How It Works

The Kinleven Yacht Mast Ladder is a simple and stable solution which will allow you to climb your mast solo and with minimal preparation.

• Hoisted on a Halyard
• Stabilised by the climber's weight on its 3 line webbing construction
• Secured by sail slides in the Luff Groove, or other Sail Management System
• Carefully designed for grip, comfort, practicality, strength, durability and ease of climbing.

Made to Measure

Our Mast Ladders are made to measure so that, while the top rung is just a metre below the masthead sheave, the bottom rung is neither too high nor too low, in other words, within easy reach of the boom (not too high), and not in the way if you want to pre-tension your ladder by tying off at the foot of your mast (not too low).

We do this by taking the precise ladder length and calculating the distance required between each rung to the nearest millimetre. We balance spacing with the number of rungs to keep within a “comfortable climbing” range. For “Racing” versions, we can fit fewer rungs spaced further apart to save on weight.

5 Year Guarantee

Though not as familiar or available as the old Bosun’s Chair, variations on this type of mast climbing kit have been around in one form or other for many years. Since we started, we’ve been making continual improvements to our own version - to make the best version we could - one we feel happy to give a 5 year guarantee on. More than once, we’ve given the whole thing a thorough re-think; to improve the practicality of the end-product and make producing it sustainable and efficient.

• We’ve developed assembly jigs to incorporate and refine our unique fid-technique for riveting through the webbing. This means that damage to the webbing is eliminated and the full strength of the webbing is retained.
• We’ve designed the rungs to enhance the assembly’s strength as a unit, the ladder’s compactness when rolled up and the users’ comfort and safety when climbing. As you can see in some of our images, some people find them comfortable enough to go up in bare feet.
• Our design incorporates a neat system for getting the ladder past swept spreaders, easy to operate and avoid tangles. We call it the “Venetian Stand-Off System”, for reasons that are usually soon apparent.
• We send our ladders out in two bags: a dry-bag and a drying-bag. The drying-bag makes it easier to dry the ladder off, if it should get wet or need rinsing with fresh water. The dry-bag protects the ladder in between uses and is more convenient for carrying and stowage.

Highest Quality Materials

We cannot stress enough how important it is to us that our product be both safe and lasting. This is why we have been painstakingly thorough in our choice of materials and suppliers. Quality lasts, and keeps you safe.

Triangular Ring

Red, blue & green webbing, venetian stand-off system, canvas top piece.

• Downloadable Resources
• Printable Measuring Guide
• Sail Slide Identification
• Mast Ladder Instructions
• Stand Off Instructions

Further Reading

Mast ladder storage, mast ladder safety, mast climbing made easy, other products.

Contact Form

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© Kinleven Marine 2017 - T&Cs - VAT No. 219156607 Kinleven Limited - Registered in England and Wales No. 9210755 Registered Address - 38 Bridge Street, Andover, Hampshire, SP11 0HS

Mast Mate Climbing System

Mast Mate is an alternating-step flexible mast ladder made of 2 inch-wide nylon webbing. The sewn tensile strength of the webbing is 3,000 pounds. The distance between the alternating steps is 17 inches. The sail boat ladder steps are double reinforced with the same webbing. The steps are not sewn on to a main strap, but rather are formed by two continuous parallel straps of webbing, one sewn to form the step, the other straight, and visa versa, over the length of the ladder. Thus the Mast Mate is one contiguous unit.

A No. 3 spur grommet is attached between each step (25 grommets for the 35-foot and 36 grommets for the 50-foot). A stout D ring is affixed at the top for halyard connection. Nylon retainer shackles are provided for connecting the step grommets to the appropriate slides or slugs provided by the owner. There is a double step at the top, 3 feet below the halyard connection, for equal footing when working. The double step can be positioned at any point along the mast, A No. 3 grommet is provided between the halyard connection and the double step for gear attachment, bosun’s chair, tool bag, or safety harness.

Mast Mate is raised only when needed. It is hoisted just as is the mainsail. If the particular track or slot system has a gate, Mast Mate is fed in above the lowered main; otherwise, the main must be taken off the track or slot. A downhaul is recommended, but the weight of the climber will take the slack out of the system.

A common problem, main halyard retrieval, can be solved with Mast Mate by using the jib halyard (masthead rig only) or adjustable topping lift. If a spare halyard is available, Mast Mate affixed will provide a means to lessen the burden of going aloft in the bosun’s chair by taking the weight off the wincher. Mast Mate can also be used as an emergency boarding ladder by looping a step over a winch and casting the rest overboard. When not in use, Mast Mate is rolled compactly (per instructions) and stowed in the nylon bag provided. The 35ft MAST MATE weighs 8 pounds and it’s dimensions rolled are 14″ X 2″, the 50′ Mast Mate weighs 11.5 pounds and is 16″ X 2″ rolled.

Mast Mate is manufactured in the United States, It is a simple device, a combination of old and new ideas and modern materials. Used with common sense and good judgment, it is a very helpful tool. The statement most often heard when Mast Mate is seen at boat shows or in private use is: “Why didn’t I think of that?”

 Tool Bag Workbelt

 The design is similar to a linesman’s belt, consisting of an adjustable waist belt with a tool bag conveniently affixed at the back and a tether strap that goes around the mast and clips back onto the opposite side of the belt. This allows for a comfortable work position with both hands free. I feel the use of this workbelt greatly reduces any risk that could be incurred by on the spot solutions to securing yourself to the mast. When used to hold you to the mast, regular safety harnesses with a single front attachment point, although useful for a back up safety line, tend to make you swing side to side making working difficult at best. With the Mast Mate Workbelt you are fully supported from your backside greatly reducing swing . It is a must when working off the Mast Mate and is equally useful when using permanent mast steps.

 Used Mast Mates Available

On occasion we have various sizes of Mast Mates available at reduced cost.

Click Here for Sailors with In-Mast Furling

 Sail Batten Stiffeners

Even I will admit that one of the difficulties in using the mast mate while standing and doing work in the top adjacent steps is foot fatigue. This is caused by the very thing that makes the mast mate so safe to climb, the flexible webbing that surrounds and grips your feet as you climb. But, when you stand in the steps for any length of time, this grip and flexing also causes foot fatigue . In the past this has been dealt with by finding ways to lessen the pressure on the feet by either leaning back in the workbelt or climbing harness or by sitting in the bosuns chair. Now there is a way to even lessen this pressure more by using a stiffener in the bottom of the top double steps. The stiffener is a strip of sturdy sail batten stock with rubber cap ends which slides securely into a pocket formed by the double webbing reinforcer. This provides a stiff bottom on the adjacent top steps which prevents them from collapsing around the foot. A pair of stiffeners is now included with every Mast Mate at no additional cost .

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• Mast Ladder

This Mast Ladder Will Get You to the Top in No Time!

Sooner or later, you have to go up the mast. Recovery Marine's Mast Ladder is an easy-climbing 50-foot alternating-step, flexible ladder made of 2" (50mm) wide nylon webbing with a sewn tensile strength of 3,000 lb. And yet, it still easily packs into a compact bag.

The Mast Ladder retails for $245.00 

But we've negotiated a  Special Discount Deal  with Recovery Marine for our visitors:

Use the Code  sailboatcruiser  at Check-Out to Get Your Mast Ladder  for just $211.50!

• LENGTH: 50 feet;
• ALTERNATING STEP LENGTH: 17 inches;
• STRENGTH: Sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds;
• STEPS: Double-reinforced with steps formed by two continuous parallel straps of webbing, one sewn to form the step, the other straight, and vice versa, over the length of the ladder; 
• DEPLOYMENT: Fittings slide into mainsail track and hoisted on main halyard;
• EASY-TO-USE: Climbing is easy;
• CONVENIENT: Comes with its own bag, folds up into a packet, roughly the size of a three-inch-thick legal-sized paper pad;
• BRIGHTLY COLORED: For easy viewing and use.

Use the Code  sailboatcruiser  at Check-Out to Get Your Mast Ladder at the discounted price!

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Mast Ladder 50 Foot

Sooner or later, you have to go up the mast. Recovery Marine’s Mast Ladder is an easy-climbing 50-foot alternating-step, flexible ladder made of two-inch (2-inch) wide nylon webbing with a sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds. And yet, it still easily packs into a compact bag.

Description

• Reviews (0)

Sooner or later, you have to go up the mast. Recovery Marine’s Mast Ladder is an easy-climbing 50-foot alternating-step, flexible ladder made of two-inch (2-inch) wide nylon webbing with a sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds. And yet, it still easily packs into a compact bag. You will need to purchase the slides separately.

LENGTH: 50 feet ALTERNATING STEP LENGTH: 17 inches STRENGTH: Sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds STEPS: Double-reinforced with steps formed by two continuous parallel straps of webbing, one sewn to form the step, the other straight, and vice versa, over the length of the ladder. EASY-TO-USE: Climbing is easy CONVENIENT: Comes with its own bag, folds up into a packet, roughly the size of a three-inch-thick legal-sized paper pad BRIGHTLY COLORED: For easy viewing and use

You will need to purchase the slides separately.

Always use a safety harness in conjunction with ladder

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eastward ho sailboat for sale

• Boats for Sale

24' eastward ho cruisers.

ARCHIVED: This is a previously listed vessel and is no longer offered for sale If you would like assistance locating a similar vessel, Click Here to locate a similar boat

Designed by Eldredge-McInnis and built by Portsmouth Yacht Co., the Eastward Ho is a compact yet roomy sloop designed for family cruising in comfort. She is a proven design which combines traditional elegance with practical accommodations. Nothing has been overlooked to satisfy both the sailor and the cruising enthusiast. Her generous headroom, two berths, full galley, and enclosed head are unique on a boat of this size. Her spacious cockpit affords seats long enough for an afternoon nap or additional overnight guests. Sailing or under power she is lively and responsive with a motion reminiscent of a much larger boat. Her ample beam and sufficient ballast make her very stiff without sacrificing valuable draft.

Attabuoy  is in need of general cleaning inside and out and some cosmetic work. The keel will need some minor fiberglass work. The sails are like new. The engine turns over, but has not been operated for a number of years. Take a look and you will fall in love!

• Specifications
• Description

Hull color - white

Deck color - cream

Keel - internal lead

Cockpit Cushions

Stern Ladder

Opening Ports - 2

Pressure Water

Refrigerator

Battery - 1 (most likely is dead)

Shorepower 110V

Roller Furling

Depthsounder

Cradle - steel

Anchors - 3

Anchor Rode - 2

Fire Extinguisher

Life Jackets

Main - white, Dacron, The Yacht Sailmakers

Main Cover - blue, Sunbrella

Genoa - white, Dacron, The Yacht Sailmakers

Summer & Winter - Torresen Marine, Inc., Muskegon, Michigan

For more information or details, please contact Steve Dake, Director of Sailboat Sales, at (231) 759-8596 or by email at [email protected] .

Steve has been in the marine business for over 40 years. Please use his knowledge and experience to help you find the right boat for your needs.

Because we value your time, please call and make an appointment prior to visiting. Your scheduled appointment helps ensure the ability to board and see the boat you would like to preview. Please wear boat shoes only to board all boats. The only exceptions are non-marking treads. Thank you!

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eastward ho 24 for sale

• eastward ho 24

1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut

Ce ryder eastward ho 24.

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Portsmouth Eastward Ho Boats for sale

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho

Neptune, New Jersey

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Model Eastward Ho

Category Sailboats

Posted Over 1 Month

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho All of the prep work has been done and she's just about ready for paint. This is a great opportunity for someone looking to customize an Eastward Ho their way and do it cheap!   Seller has all parts to complete this project. Also available separately is the completely rebuilt 14HP Volvo MD7A Diesel engine, ready to be placed in the boat.  Top to Bottom rebuild was performed by world renowned Monmouth Marine Engines of Brielle NJ. $3000 Invested.

Belmar, New Jersey

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• Sailboat Guide

Eastward HO 24

Eastward HO 24 is a 23 ′ 7 ″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Originally designed for wood contruction. The hulls of the later, FG version were built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co. Diesel power was available as an option.

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Eastward ho 24 preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Eastward ho 24 used sailboats for sale by owner.

Both salon settees turn into two twin beds so can sleep 4 adults. YEAR: 1977 MAKE: Portsmouth Yacht Co MODEL: Eastward Ho CLASS: Sloop, Pocket Cruiser LENGTH: 26' (24' with 2' boomkin) HULL MATERIAL: FIberglass reinforced plastic FUEL TYPE: Diesel. AIR CONDITIONING: Drop in Cruise Air. ALL PHOTOS ARE RECENT.

1978. 31'. 10'. 4.2'. Florida. $12,900. Description: Airyella is a classic New England style sloop - has incredible character, is very distinctive, and is a pleasure to sail. She is perfect for anyone looking for a boat that will sail, and anchor overnight with 1-5 people, comfortably in the bay and the Keys and beyond, at a fantastic price.

1976. 24'. 9'. 4'. Connecticut. $12,000. Description: Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. Omoo has had a lot of updates including new diesel engine (Kubota Beta marine), rebuilt gearbox (2021), new standing and running rigging (2020), new ...

Broker: Designed by Eldredge-McInnis and built by Portsmouth Yacht Co., the Eastward Ho is a compact yet roomy sloop designed for family cruising in comfort. She is a proven design which combines traditional elegance with practical accommodations. Nothing has been overlooked to satisfy both the sailor and the cruising enthusiast.

A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.

Model McInnis. Category Sailboats. Length 31'. Posted Over 1 Month. 1985 #1 Hull McInnis,31 ft., 4.5ft. draft, McInnis Cutter rig Eastward Ho series. 28hp Yanmar diesel, All hardwood Interior, Complete custom finished, In bristol condition. Completely blue water equipt.Leave Message at 772/283-0853. $40000.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale . Eastward HO 24, 1977 LOA 25'5" LWL 20' Beam 8'8" Draft 3'10" SA 283 sq ft Ballast 3,600 Displacement 7,000 Keel Full Designed by Thomas F. Eldredge/Walter J. Mcinnis and built by the Portsmouth Boat Company (UK).

Used 1978 Eastward Ho 31 for sale is located in Bienville National Forest (Mississippi, United States of America). This vessel was designed and built by the Eastward shipyard in 1978. Key features 1978 Eastward Ho 31: length 9.45 meters. engine: fuel type - diesel. 1978 Eastward Ho 31 refers to classes: sailing yachts , sailboats and sailing ...

Seller's Description. Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24, 1978 sailboat for sale I am selling my 1978 Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24 for $12,500. The boat is in Alamitos Bay (Seal Beach, CA / Long Beach, CA) where the buyer may assume the slip at $320 a month. Very nice location, across the street from the new 2nd and PCH outdoor mall.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale Eastward Ho, 24 ft., 1975 No. 55, 1975. Highly regarded Eldridge/McGinnis cruising design- Full keel, 4 ft. draft. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ ...

Seller's Description. 1980 Portsmouth Yacht Co Eastward Ho 31. She is a classic designed in 1959, built in 1980. Similar to the Sea Sprite 33 that Robin Graham sailed around the world. Custom interior Volvo Penta MD2B 25hp Nice thick teak toe rail Electric Windlass Auto Helm Updated hardware above deck Updated rigging Bimini, dodger frames ...

Search eastward ho 24 prices - more than 1 listings - Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. ... 1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut. Ce Ryder eastward ho 24 . Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth ...

Boat Trader currently has 3 Eastward boats for sale, including 1 new vessels and 2 used boats listed by both private sellers and professional yacht brokers and boat dealerships mainly in United States. The oldest model listed is a contemporary boat built in 2018 and the newest model year of 2021.

Join Date: Aug 2018. Posts: 3. Eastward Ho 31 Sailboat. Cutter Rig. Eldredge McInnis design, built in RI by C. Ryder Yachts. Roller furling jib. Jib boom & roller for twin furlers. Re-built Volvo Penta 30hp with spare engine & transmission. Bimini & dodger.

35.5' Endeavour E35 Presently on the hard for winter storage at Morgans Marina, New Jersey Asking $35,000

2015 Malibu Wakesetter 22 VLX. Battle Creek, MI. $40,000. 2008 Hydra-Sports 2200 CC. Sarasota, FL. $26,500. 2 new and used Portsmouth Eastward Ho boats for sale at smartmarineguide.com.

First S-400 bltn, Elektrostal, Moscow.

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Advertisement. Eastward HO 24 is a 23′ 7″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.